Very interesting. I am enjoying the series. One suggestion though from years of working with large PVC joints. When you are gluing pieces together and you have cut 2" male sections and you have the room. Make the male sections longer. So when you make a mistake you saw it off and save yourself from having to throw away your whole glued assembly and start over. If you have no room after sawing it off you have to purchase a lot of expensive fittings and rebuild from scratch. It will save you a lot of grief.
I figured that you was likely to have the water leaks that you had. I thought that as intelligent as you are it just seems like some things just fly right over your head. But then I thought how much I appreciate the fact that you show the mistakes along the way. Good on you for showing the failures and not just skipping over it without stating what mistakes you made and what you did to correct them. Really enjoy your experiments with the wins and lessons along the way👍
The issue with my failure was that I really wanted to have a coupling on the outside of the pipe and my really nice fittings did not fit. I knew that barb fittings would work and wound up having to fall back on them. Oh well. Working very well now!
I am really enjoying this series. I live in Seattle so the likelihood that I will need to duplicate your project is very slim (but we can hope), still I like your ideas and how you go about your work (in an earlier code, “I hear thunder, but we will work till the rain starts”). I hope all your PVC joints hold up forever. I mean that sincerely. But if at some point you find they leak, when you make your repair please consider using PVC primer. I don’t know anyone who likes to use primer but I think of it as just a little bit of extra insurance. “While you may be able to create strong joints without it, primer is an important part in making sure your joints are as strong as they possibly can be. ... The purpose of primer is to begin the chemical reaction that softens PVC and to provide an even prepped surface for the solvent cement. As you may know, PVC joints are not glued together exactly, but fused through a chemical change. The softer the outer layer of your PVC, the better it will cement in your joint. This is how primer helps your joint strength. ... When it comes time to apply your primer make sure you are 100% ready to prime AND cement. Primer is effective only when wet, so you need to move quickly once you begin.” www.commercial-industrial-supply.com/resource-center/do-i-need-to-use-pvc-primer/ I am looking forward to watching the next and next and next. I am not a plumber, by the way, but a master plumber for whom I have a lot of respect gave me a little advice I will pass on. “Use fittings and pipe of similar materials. Plastic with plastic, metal with metal. Your stainless ball valves are truly beautiful. As a boat guy I see the value, but when I think of my friend’s advice, I think you might do better with PVC valves. Also, reduction couplings are better tradecraft that reduction bushings. I don’t know exactly why, butit has to do with failure rate for bushings vs. couplings, so if you use bushings anywhere in a home you have to provide some sort of access in the event that a bushing fails. Great work!
At first, the fact that your plumbing vernacular is atrocious, bugged me something terrible. (Pipe raisers 😂) Then I realized that is what makes these videos so great. It's not a professional doing this...it's just an average dude getting some free power. Much respect
Yes and that term avoids the proper term that some people are not able to handle here on youtube. (Pipe nipple 🤣) this project has been really fun! Looking to make some upgrades soon!
Lots of hard work in that keep it up. Just FYI if you keep having issues I bet one of your local plumbers has a pipe fusion tool no fittings just helped a buddy of mine fuse together 1500 of 1 1/2 pipe like thst worked grate.
I have watched every video and like so far. My does not flow enough for a hydro but I do plan on building a ram pump for my shed. Mainly to wash my hands. But I do find this hydro interesting thanks so much.
Thank you for watching! Hydro seems to need a minimum flow of 20gpm to be effective. You will see in the second micro hydro install for my neighbor. He is getting usable power but needs a little more water.
Very interesting series. Thank you. I was wondering why you didn't join the piping the same way that you joined the white piping, essentially a length of rigid plastic pipe that fitted over the two ends and then glued in position? Looking forward to the next video.
Thank you. The black poly pipe is made of a different material then the white PVC. It does not glue together the same. That is why I had to use the Barb fittings. I had purchased a special kind of fitting but it would not go on the pipe that I had because it was too big.
Red hot is sufficient in many cases when applied to both sections pre assembly but primer is required for code for potable below grade. But states varry on code.
Louis Williams and sons in hendersonville NC they carry alot of odd stuff, and larger stuff. I know it a haul for you but if its something odd you need right now
If you ever have more problems with couplings try to find somebody that can fuse the plastic for you. May be a plumber that has the equipment, or a local contractor that does water/gas work. Fusing the pipe will be stronger than the pipe itself.
I believe if you use pvc primer and ether cristys red hot blue ,equivalent or heavy duty irrigation pvc glue you will hav a better weld on your pipe ther for less leaks. Hope this helps
I lived on a 6" 100+ psi micro hydro for a while. Learn to open and close valves and shut offs very slowly. The hammer effect of sudden water weight change is very real. Use 4 or 5 bags of ready mix to make a cement block with my 4 large eye bolts embedded slightly uphill from your turbine and valve manifold. . You can then "anchor" to it with chains if needed. Just some ideas.... 65 psi is awesome!
That is a big pipe and a lot of pressure. Having worked with the ram pump for 6 years I definitely have experienced a lot of water hammer. I learned from Joe malovich that the pressure wave can pop fittings quite easily
@@LandtoHouse a couple of lengths of 2" schedule 80 400 psi belled pipe (face bell uphill) at the end of the system, anchored well, would really hold the tail end of the system in place. An old farmers irrigation trick: get old bike tire tubes and cut into 1x20" strips. 3 or four strips wrapped tightly around small leaks will shut them down 100%, especially near the top of the system. Awesome hydro system!
Those exterior connectors are rated for that pressure but you have to alternate the hose clamps. They need to pull away from one another. The barbed fittings are better but using 2 alternating hose clamps per side is better
Go and buy the correct poly pipe joiners like Philmatic wich have internal barbed sections to give the bite and strength. Easy to service as they can be undone when needed. Rubber comression joins are for "Patching" rigid pipes that don't move. As for pushing in the barbed sections, peice of softer pine wood and smack them in.
Yes that union is key to installing and uninstalling the turbine! I have already had it off of the system once and will be doing that again soon for a new nozzle size.
Great series to watch from the other side of the pond. Are you planning to get an aluminium catch tank made for the head of the water run? Most of the materials will last a life time, but that timber catch tank will rot out over the years.
PVC is not a glue its actually a solvent that welds. It melts the pvc pieces together you need to use primer before or you are just slip fitting the pieces together with glue. And white teflon tape is made for small Fittings less than an inch.
The end waa capped so the air that went before the water caused problems. When house is plumed all the outlets in the house are open to relieve pressure on plastic pipe.
Makes you wonder what the typical or recommended use for those Orion couplings is. Maybe they recommend cement? Glad to see you found a resolution after multiple attempts.
@@LandtoHouse That was my thinking on first seeing your piping. Hose barbs hold, slip fittings slip. Even compression unions for PVC are known to slip off. Which is why I put two 90s in at every one of them. Then tie the two legs together with rope or strapping. Keeps them together and can be removed if needed.
You could put a schrader valve (tire valve ) in the top of the air tower, you will be able to pump air into the air tube when it becomes full of water.
Looking at the leak you had ( the one you called a guyser) there was air bursting out. Have you sorted that? If not an air stand out the top of the drum at the top of the penstock will prevent that.
You might want to change those pipe nipples to plastic. That's typically a plumbing no no. There is a potential for cracking with metal threaded into plastic as the materials have different properties. Over torquing or expansion and contraction differences are the problem. Watch those joints at penstock pressure gauge/hammer arrestor section.
For that size of pex you should have used some pex press couplings and called it a day. If you go to your local plumbing supply store they'll probably let you rent a PEX press gun and for a couple bucks you can get really cheap pex press couplings.
I've kind of got the same property with creek in winter running from 65 gallons per second to summer with with 2 gallons per second. 55 Ft. of drop--what do we do to save and make energy?
Why did you not just glue the pipes together using a outside external joint? That way your volume would not be restricted and you would avoid the possible build-up of trash inside your system
That joint between the black poly pipe and the white pvc is not good enough. You need a very secure, strong, type joiner. I have only got 30 psi static pressure and have found that o'ring type work well.
And there you have it, leaks. You need to replace all your joints with o'ring type joiners, it is a big cost, but once fitted they will cause you zero problems. Additionally you can disconnect and reconnect the joints as many times as you want.
I think your heated barb joints should be a good long term solution. Although the o'ring type, specific to the poly pipe would be the correct fix (like the blue Chinese type you showed us). The only down side to the heated joints would be they are fairly permanent, unable to undo if you need to at any time in the future.
You need to slip those pipes closer together don't have a big gap in between your connections make sure each pipe is butted up against each other before you clamp it down!
I really like your stuff Seth. Like the way you do things. But man that riser was over complicated. it's not going to hurt anything putting it there but in my opinion I'm not sure that it will do anyting beneficial. Either way keep up the good work. I really like the series so far
Thank you for joining in to the channel! Yes that surge tank might not do anything ...but might keep it from busting fittings. I have seen pressure jump up to 80psi when I close the valves. (very slowly)
I'm honestly surprised you were having trouble with those rubber joints or "donuts" as we call them, we have a 1500ft siphon from 2" PVC pipe and connected with those rubber joints for flexibility in some areas and they hold 75+ psi
I was a bit shocked myself. I really thought they would hold. I was getting 70psi at the very bottom. They would hold until I closed or opened a valve and then they popped.
Land to House Unfortunately, no matter how slow you turn the ball valve you will still encounter some degree of water hammer. Using a needle valve instead of a ball valve should make a huge difference.
So far with slow turn I have seen a spike no higher than 80psi. (Turned off the water just a little to fast) the pipe is rated at 100psi. So I need to be careful.
Never wratchet a ball valve all the way open , crack it open a small amount to avoid hammering the coupler at the botom of the hill. Leaving the bottom drain open some when opening the top might also help
Me thinks it would be worth it to order a single piece of pipe to run the full length so you do not have to worry about fitting along the way. I understand fighting that length of pipe would not be fun but better than wondering every night if a fitting popped off.
That would be a massive pipe. 1100 feet of 2" pipe would weight a couple hundred pounds. Good news is that the turbine has worked flawlessly for a month.
Hmmm ,before i seen all this , i worked at a swimming pool company, we used galvanized barb , heated the pipe 2 clamps on each side , so my suggestion check a pool supplier,
The air pocket anti water hammer thing doesn’t work over time because water can absorb the air and eventually their will be no air to absorb the pressure
Yes they do. I ordered a sample and went to test it out at the lumber yard. Worked perfectly. So I ordered 10 of them. Then I found out that I also ordered poly pipe that is a smaller schedule. . . The fittings did not fit.
@@jtms1200 I know a Electrician who said no matter what buried PVC conduit is going to take on water! I said that's funny mine never has well guess what the Electrician never use's on his PVC conduit you only get one guess.
Fill the lines then lower the high spots. positioning them dry changed everything you prepared because the weight changed your high spots. Oops. I would have made the exact same mistake.
Love your channel.. Here is a guy you should watch he's got a few ideas, that could help you in your micro-hydro venture... th-cam.com/video/DqaWnOOiNbI/w-d-xo.html&feature=em-uploademail At each joint you can put a t connector with a valve on top to purge air if it gets in the lines, that would be much easier then to chase it all the way to the top.. That bursting apart is just what I figured it would do, when I seen you use those connectors instead of barbed ones.. I Know you said you switched to the barbed ones... Yup, you need to add a lot of heat to it... some people uses a pot of meta boiling water to stick the ends in while using the torch to heat keep the water hot... Gloves are needed cause it gets very hot.. 65 pounds is not to bad at all, with some tweaking I am sure you can get way more then that.. If your weather allows you to use regular PVC (heavy duty) plumbing pipes you would get better flow & pressure. bad & costly part is, you would have to use a lot of union connectors so you can do maintenance and replace pipes as needed more easily... There are literally hundreds of videos out there where you can see many technique's to how others did them.. I watched one where this one guy made a, like pipeline that was about 3 feet up concreted posts in the ground and had a rail connected to it from source to his ram pump, then that black pipe all the way to his turbine, he had I believe two very tall stand pipes so the hammer would not cause to much back pressure to his PVC piping.. I look forward to seeing your next exciting episode..
Thank you. There are so many different ways to do things like this. So far when air gets into the pipe it can take up to 20 minutes to purge out. Not too bad. I just turn off the turbine and slightly crack the valve so that the water slows down. The barb fittings are working very well. I did not go pvc because it gets to 5 degrees in winter and might crack
As always on this channel .. argh!!! all the troubleshooting you show and then you just "mention" the final result. Why not take 30 seconds more to just reveal the pressure!>!>!>
It has been a great learning experience. And will give us power off grid when the power is out this winter. We are without power at least 15 days in the winter.
Love the project,
Great that you're not afraid to show your mistakes.
Can't wait till the next one.
Thank you. If I left out the mistakes the video would be 30 seconds long haha
@@LandtoHouse 😂😂
Fascinating series, Seth. Can hardly wait for the next video!
Next we get the housing built and installed to hold the turbine!
10pm on-the-dot. Thanks mate for your punctuality!
Yes for sure! This is a long one.
Nice effort mate. Wow, lots of work to get all the leaks fixed, up and down the hill. Thanks for splicing the video. Looking forward to the next one.
It did take quite a while to get all those leaks out. It has now been working for over a month with no issues so I think everything is good
Very interesting. I am enjoying the series. One suggestion though from years of working with large PVC joints. When you are gluing pieces together and you have cut 2" male sections and you have the room. Make the male sections longer. So when you make a mistake you saw it off and save yourself from having to throw away your whole glued assembly and start over. If you have no room after sawing it off you have to purchase a lot of expensive fittings and rebuild from scratch. It will save you a lot of grief.
That is true. So far this section of pipe is doing well. It has been running for a month without issues.
I figured that you was likely to have the water leaks that you had. I thought that as intelligent as you are it just seems like some things just fly right over your head. But then I thought how much I appreciate the fact that you show the mistakes along the way. Good on you for showing the failures and not just skipping over it without stating what mistakes you made and what you did to correct them. Really enjoy your experiments with the wins and lessons along the way👍
The issue with my failure was that I really wanted to have a coupling on the outside of the pipe and my really nice fittings did not fit. I knew that barb fittings would work and wound up having to fall back on them. Oh well. Working very well now!
I am really enjoying this series. I live in Seattle so the likelihood that I will need to duplicate your project is very slim (but we can hope), still I like your ideas and how you go about your work (in an earlier code, “I hear thunder, but we will work till the rain starts”). I hope all your PVC joints hold up forever. I mean that sincerely. But if at some point you find they leak, when you make your repair please consider using PVC primer. I don’t know anyone who likes to use primer but I think of it as just a little bit of extra insurance. “While you may be able to create strong joints without it, primer is an important part in making sure your joints are as strong as they possibly can be. ... The purpose of primer is to begin the chemical reaction that softens PVC and to provide an even prepped surface for the solvent cement. As you may know, PVC joints are not glued together exactly, but fused through a chemical change. The softer the outer layer of your PVC, the better it will cement in your joint. This is how primer helps your joint strength. ... When it comes time to apply your primer make sure you are 100% ready to prime AND cement. Primer is effective only when wet, so you need to move quickly once you begin.” www.commercial-industrial-supply.com/resource-center/do-i-need-to-use-pvc-primer/ I am looking forward to watching the next and next and next. I am not a plumber, by the way, but a master plumber for whom I have a lot of respect gave me a little advice I will pass on. “Use fittings and pipe of similar materials. Plastic with plastic, metal with metal. Your stainless ball valves are truly beautiful. As a boat guy I see the value, but when I think of my friend’s advice, I think you might do better with PVC valves. Also, reduction couplings are better tradecraft that reduction bushings. I don’t know exactly why, butit has to do with failure rate for bushings vs. couplings, so if you use bushings anywhere in a home you have to provide some sort of access in the event that a bushing fails. Great work!
At first, the fact that your plumbing vernacular is atrocious, bugged me something terrible. (Pipe raisers 😂) Then I realized that is what makes these videos so great. It's not a professional doing this...it's just an average dude getting some free power. Much respect
Yes and that term avoids the proper term that some people are not able to handle here on youtube. (Pipe nipple 🤣) this project has been really fun! Looking to make some upgrades soon!
i do irrigation work with the same type of pipe and we use 2 hose clamps on each joint when working with pressure over 25lbs
Love the videos and I'm jealous you have a great creek to play in.
That creek was the primary goal of finding land years ago. That creek has paid for the land and is now working on the house :)
Thumbed and subbed, great content, love seeing the errors fixed
If you love errors you will love my channel haha. Thanks for watching.
Nice progress 👍
Thank you. Its almost time to work with the turbine!
Lots of hard work in that keep it up. Just FYI if you keep having issues I bet one of your local plumbers has a pipe fusion tool no fittings just helped a buddy of mine fuse together 1500 of 1 1/2 pipe like thst worked grate.
I have watched every video and like so far. My does not flow enough for a hydro but I do plan on building a ram pump for my shed. Mainly to wash my hands. But I do find this hydro interesting thanks so much.
Thank you for watching! Hydro seems to need a minimum flow of 20gpm to be effective. You will see in the second micro hydro install for my neighbor. He is getting usable power but needs a little more water.
Very interesting series. Thank you. I was wondering why you didn't join the piping the same way that you joined the white piping, essentially a length of rigid plastic pipe that fitted over the two ends and then glued in position? Looking forward to the next video.
Thank you. The black poly pipe is made of a different material then the white PVC. It does not glue together the same. That is why I had to use the Barb fittings. I had purchased a special kind of fitting but it would not go on the pipe that I had because it was too big.
I love the foreshadowing captions in the top!
"Lets hope there's not a leak"
"HAHA"
Yes there was always a leak... every time.
PVC manufacturers recommend using primer on anything over 1" to break the surface for a better weld. Also heavy (gray) glue on large pipe.
So far this has held well for a month. If it has issues I will reinstall with some primer. I have not seen the gray glue?
@@LandtoHouse Keep at it, you're doing it well.
Red hot is sufficient in many cases when applied to both sections pre assembly but primer is required for code for potable below grade. But states varry on code.
Just use the cpvc glue for regular pvc its bullet proof 👍
Very interesting. I am enjoying the series.im from Indonesia
Thank you for watching!
Wau! How hard it was!
I use the gray fittings on my farm irritating I run up to 70psi never had any issues.
The barb fittings are doing very well.
Louis Williams and sons in hendersonville NC they carry alot of odd stuff, and larger stuff. I know it a haul for you but if its something odd you need right now
Pretty cool there friend....nice work
Thank you. This has worked well.
Compression fittings with the brass compression ring is the way go
If you ever have more problems with couplings try to find somebody that can fuse the plastic for you. May be a plumber that has the equipment, or a local contractor that does water/gas work. Fusing the pipe will be stronger than the pipe itself.
I was just wondering in the joining of your pipes together are you deburring interior Edge so that there is no drag on your water flow
Nice work 👌👌
I believe if you use pvc primer and ether cristys red hot blue ,equivalent or heavy duty irrigation pvc glue you will hav a better weld on your pipe ther for less leaks. Hope this helps
I lived on a 6" 100+ psi micro hydro for a while. Learn to open and close valves and shut offs very slowly. The hammer effect of sudden water weight change is very real. Use 4 or 5 bags of ready mix to make a cement block with my 4 large eye bolts embedded slightly uphill from your turbine and valve manifold. . You can then "anchor" to it with chains if needed. Just some ideas.... 65 psi is awesome!
That is a big pipe and a lot of pressure. Having worked with the ram pump for 6 years I definitely have experienced a lot of water hammer.
I learned from Joe malovich that the pressure wave can pop fittings quite easily
@@LandtoHouse a couple of lengths of 2" schedule 80 400 psi belled pipe (face bell uphill) at the end of the system, anchored well, would really hold the tail end of the system in place. An old farmers irrigation trick: get old bike tire tubes and cut into 1x20" strips. 3 or four strips wrapped tightly around small leaks will shut them down 100%, especially near the top of the system. Awesome hydro system!
Those exterior connectors are rated for that pressure but you have to alternate the hose clamps. They need to pull away from one another. The barbed fittings are better but using 2 alternating hose clamps per side is better
Use a rubber mallet to tap those in it makes it a lot easier I install sprinkler systems for a living
Go and buy the correct poly pipe joiners like Philmatic wich have internal barbed sections to give the bite and strength. Easy to service as they can be undone when needed.
Rubber comression joins are for "Patching" rigid pipes that don't move. As for pushing in the barbed sections, peice of softer pine wood and smack them in.
Have you looked into a plastic pipe welder that heats both ends and fuses the pipes together instead of the barbed fittings?
I did price one of those. Sadly it was too costly OR was not mobile enough to get into the woods.
Could you put pvc cement on the piece on the end?
The exit pipe? Yes after I build my updated housing I will glue that pipe.
Glue a union at the unit at the end. That way it's a positive connector that you can take apart for service.
Yes that union is key to installing and uninstalling the turbine! I have already had it off of the system once and will be doing that again soon for a new nozzle size.
Great series to watch from the other side of the pond. Are you planning to get an aluminium catch tank made for the head of the water run? Most of the materials will last a life time, but that timber catch tank will rot out over the years.
Thank you. I am actually thinking of making a custom intake out of PVC trim boards. They are strong enough and do not rot. We shall see.
PVC is not a glue its actually a solvent that welds. It melts the pvc pieces together you need to use primer before or you are just slip fitting the pieces together with glue. And white teflon tape is made for small Fittings less than an inch.
Really enjoying the series so far. Great job! Just curious but how much land do you own there?
Thank you! We have 10 acres here.
The end waa capped so the air that went before the water caused problems. When house is plumed all the outlets in the house are open to relieve pressure on plastic pipe.
Makes you wonder what the typical or recommended use for those Orion couplings is. Maybe they recommend cement? Glad to see you found a resolution after multiple attempts.
Yes definitely took a lot of trial-and-error. Apparently those other couplings are for drainage not pressure
After a quick search. It appears these are to be used with a ‘groove tool’. Hefty price tag on that thing 😬
The barb fittings were like ... $2 each. Best way to go.
@@LandtoHouse That was my thinking on first seeing your piping. Hose barbs hold, slip fittings slip. Even compression unions for PVC are known to slip off. Which is why I put two 90s in at every one of them. Then tie the two legs together with rope or strapping. Keeps them together and can be removed if needed.
You could put a schrader valve (tire valve ) in the top of the air tower, you will be able to pump air into the air tube when it becomes full of water.
Looking at the leak you had ( the one you called a guyser) there was air bursting out. Have you sorted that? If not an air stand out the top of the drum at the top of the penstock will prevent that.
You can drill a hole across the pipe and put a bolt, it will never come off.
You might want to change those pipe nipples to plastic. That's typically a plumbing no no. There is a potential for cracking with metal threaded into plastic as the materials have different properties. Over torquing or expansion and contraction differences are the problem. Watch those joints at penstock pressure gauge/hammer arrestor section.
No hub couplers are not for Pressure.. Funny watching you use them,, I was laughing before the video got to the spraying leak !
I could hear it very clearly
For that size of pex you should have used some pex press couplings and called it a day. If you go to your local plumbing supply store they'll probably let you rent a PEX press gun and for a couple bucks you can get really cheap pex press couplings.
I've kind of got the same property with creek in winter running from 65 gallons per second to summer with with 2 gallons per second. 55 Ft. of drop--what do we do to save and make energy?
power bill here is about 250 per month. just need to cut it down. any help out there?
This months power bill is 345.00.
Alot of work there but all is coming on nicely
Yes it was months of work. But now the turbine is humming along.
shark bite makes large push on connectors about $50.00 each underground gas pip coupler
I had great couplings but realized too late I ordered the wrong schedule pipe. The couplings did not fit.
Why did you not just glue the pipes together using a outside external joint? That way your volume would not be restricted and you would avoid the possible build-up of trash inside your system
note the farther down u get pressure can increase as it gets more speed.
Its not so much the speed as it is the weight of the water above. The speed is the same because the outlet size is limiting the water.
I probably missed it, why did you get so many cut sections of pipe instead of getting one long roll with way less failure points?
I'd reckon he didn't a machine or a straight shot to roll out 1k plus feet pipe thru the woods on uneven terrain
That joint between the black poly pipe and the white pvc is not good enough. You need a very secure, strong, type joiner. I have only got 30 psi static pressure and have found that o'ring type work well.
And there you have it, leaks. You need to replace all your joints with o'ring type joiners, it is a big cost, but once fitted they will cause you zero problems. Additionally you can disconnect and reconnect the joints as many times as you want.
I think your heated barb joints should be a good long term solution. Although the o'ring type, specific to the poly pipe would be the correct fix (like the blue Chinese type you showed us). The only down side to the heated joints would be they are fairly permanent, unable to undo if you need to at any time in the future.
You need to slip those pipes closer together don't have a big gap in between your connections make sure each pipe is butted up against each other before you clamp it down!
This is awesome
Thank you. Turbine stuff is almost here!
Your leaks all seem to be at the bottom where there is a higher pressure, you’re going to have to find another kind of coupler for those pipes.
where do you get the turbine from?
Langston Alternative power.
The black pipe can be heat welded
I really like your stuff Seth. Like the way you do things. But man that riser was over complicated. it's not going to hurt anything putting it there but in my opinion I'm not sure that it will do anyting beneficial. Either way keep up the good work. I really like the series so far
Thank you for joining in to the channel!
Yes that surge tank might not do anything ...but might keep it from busting fittings. I have seen pressure jump up to 80psi when I close the valves. (very slowly)
I liked and subscribed
Any reason you use barbs instead of glue like I get some for service reasons
I'm honestly surprised you were having trouble with those rubber joints or "donuts" as we call them, we have a 1500ft siphon from 2" PVC pipe and connected with those rubber joints for flexibility in some areas and they hold 75+ psi
I was a bit shocked myself. I really thought they would hold. I was getting 70psi at the very bottom. They would hold until I closed or opened a valve and then they popped.
Land to House Unfortunately, no matter how slow you turn the ball valve you will still encounter some degree of water hammer. Using a needle valve instead of a ball valve should make a huge difference.
So far with slow turn I have seen a spike no higher than 80psi. (Turned off the water just a little to fast) the pipe is rated at 100psi. So I need to be careful.
Never wratchet a ball valve all the way open , crack it open a small amount to avoid hammering the coupler at the botom of the hill. Leaving the bottom drain open some when opening the top might also help
Dari pipa yang jauh sangat di rekomendasikan untuk penggunaan filter pada tanki. Akan lebih sulit perawatan bila terlambat
Is the black pipe 2”ID OR OD ?
Pvc to poly pipe adapters with 2 oeteker rings on wach fitting should give you no leaks
Me thinks it would be worth it to order a single piece of pipe to run the full length so you do not have to worry about fitting along the way. I understand fighting that length of pipe would not be fun but better than wondering every night if a fitting popped off.
That would be a massive pipe. 1100 feet of 2" pipe would weight a couple hundred pounds. Good news is that the turbine has worked flawlessly for a month.
Those Fernco rubber couplings are rated for less than 5 psi. They are for drain pipes, not pressure.
That makes sense. They almost held for a while. Might have worked for the very top most joint. But with any pressure they just popped right off.
What's the purpose of the pressure tank? Thanks!
I thought it would help with potential water hammer effect. I think in the redesign coming up in a month or two I will take that out.
Hmmm ,before i seen all this , i worked at a swimming pool company, we used galvanized barb , heated the pipe 2 clamps on each side , so my suggestion check a pool supplier,
It might go higher once you fix the one rise uou talked about, if you hadn't already done so.
Yes the final pressure is 70psi static pressure. 65psi with one nozzle running.
The rubber coupling's would work if you wrap them with a thin sheet of stainless steel to keep it from bulging .
That might work. They were also wanting to slip off when the ball valve was closed.
The air pocket anti water hammer thing doesn’t work over time because water can absorb the air and eventually their will be no air to absorb the pressure
What's the alternative?
Jacob Whyatt they sell a pice that has is basically a syringe with a spring that absorbs the pressure they are rated for 50+ years I believe
Don’t they make unions for that type of pipe?
Yes they do. I ordered a sample and went to test it out at the lumber yard. Worked perfectly. So I ordered 10 of them. Then I found out that I also ordered poly pipe that is a smaller schedule. . . The fittings did not fit.
Land to House I also thought having a shut off at each section would save you tons of time from having to walk all the way back to the collector.
If you do not use the primer on pvc it is failed joint period!
you are absolutely right... always use the cleaner/primer!
@@jtms1200 I know a Electrician who said no matter what buried PVC conduit is going to take on water! I said that's funny mine never has well guess what the Electrician never use's on his PVC conduit you only get one guess.
What is an upward dip?
It's the opposite of a downward rise... I don't know why I say the things I do.. haha
Some dummy that is still standing out in Hurricane force winds. ;-)
Your catchment tank need a breather aside from overflow
The holes on top should allow for plenty of air.
Good though video
Thank you. There is a lot of pressure there
Fill the lines then lower the high spots. positioning them dry changed everything you prepared because the weight changed your high spots. Oops. I would have made the exact same mistake.
And why don't you just get a regular glue in 2 in barbed slip-on poly pipe coupler
Pipe Fusion Welder
Compression Coupling! yust saying...
Why not just use rope and a pipe knot to tie those pipes together...
That could work. The barb fittings have been holding flawlessly for a month now.
Love your channel.. Here is a guy you should watch he's got a few ideas, that could help you in your micro-hydro venture... th-cam.com/video/DqaWnOOiNbI/w-d-xo.html&feature=em-uploademail At each joint you can put a t connector with a valve on top to purge air if it gets in the lines, that would be much easier then to chase it all the way to the top.. That bursting apart is just what I figured it would do, when I seen you use those connectors instead of barbed ones.. I Know you said you switched to the barbed ones... Yup, you need to add a lot of heat to it... some people uses a pot of meta boiling water to stick the ends in while using the torch to heat keep the water hot... Gloves are needed cause it gets very hot.. 65 pounds is not to bad at all, with some tweaking I am sure you can get way more then that.. If your weather allows you to use regular PVC (heavy duty) plumbing pipes you would get better flow & pressure. bad & costly part is, you would have to use a lot of union connectors so you can do maintenance and replace pipes as needed more easily... There are literally hundreds of videos out there where you can see many technique's to how others did them.. I watched one where this one guy made a, like pipeline that was about 3 feet up concreted posts in the ground and had a rail connected to it from source to his ram pump, then that black pipe all the way to his turbine, he had I believe two very tall stand pipes so the hammer would not cause to much back pressure to his PVC piping.. I look forward to seeing your next exciting episode..
Thank you. There are so many different ways to do things like this. So far when air gets into the pipe it can take up to 20 minutes to purge out. Not too bad. I just turn off the turbine and slightly crack the valve so that the water slows down.
The barb fittings are working very well. I did not go pvc because it gets to 5 degrees in winter and might crack
Bro you need to lay off the pipe 😉😂
on the primitive tech there are no leaks. hahaha use bamboo
As always on this channel .. argh!!! all the troubleshooting you show and then you just "mention" the final result. Why not take 30 seconds more to just reveal the pressure!>!>!>
70psi static pressure.
65psi dynamic pressure.
I am no pro at filming. Obviously haha
First
You got it!
waste of money and time
It has been a great learning experience. And will give us power off grid when the power is out this winter. We are without power at least 15 days in the winter.