The box is acting like a speaker. If you mount it to a block of concrete or slab. Your foam is working well. You should run the AC to the house and put your rectifier close to the batteries. You'll have less voltage drop with the AC over the longer wire run than with DC on the long run, also you can use smaller wire with the AC.
I agree as ac is just like a tide where it pushes and pulls on a few electrons rather than trying to shove a bunch with pressure were the efficiency is less and while there is sag with wires it would be less prevalent with ac over dc
Actually HVDC has less losses than HVAC over distance, but I'm not sure he's dealing with what is to be considered HV or not. If not it doesn't really matter.
AC is only better because of the associated higher voltage. If the 3 to 2 wire converter is only diodes (no transformer), then the efficiency won't change by moving the converter closer/farther.
@@anti-cmos1349 Nope, it isn't HVAC and if rectified, it would not be HVDC. Even playing with the Smartdrive motors you still aren't in HVAC ranges. HVAC is in the range of 1KV and higher in most of the world. In the US, we don't consider anything under 100KV to be HVAC when it comes to grid power. For DC it is 1.5KV or better to be considered HVDC in most of the world. The US has had DC Voltages in the 3000VDC range on catenary wires feeding our trains for decades so again, we have higher levels before considering it HVDC.
When you said you should of used a more rigid metal. But the aluminum was what you had. I smiled thinking of all the projects I have done using just what I had. It’s a frontier mentality. This kind of thinking is invaluable on a homestead. I just built a 5000 watt solar generator with 1200 watts of solar panels. I wish I had a source of water to add a hydro turbine to the system. I’m building a wind turbine from salvaged components to power my shed and chicken coop also. Thanks for the great videos. Keep it up.
Hey Bud! I think a drain box underneath might be better especially when you use all 4 jets. All the splashing can cause a problem with the jets etc. I’m assuming your sending DC voltage to the house and if nobody has mentioned it yet you don’t have to take those losses. Rule of thumb is always make your long runs with AC voltage, the losses are very small. Even if you cheat and use the ground wire as the third phase it better than a DC voltage run. 12 gauge 3 conductor would work just fine for your situation then install the rectifier next to the controller. Voila!, no DC loss. If you watch Joe Malovich he used extension cord wire from the hydro to the rectifier in the house. It’s looking great so far, keep it up. Best of luck!
That turbine box will likely need a nice overhaul at some point. It has been great to get get an initial test but it seems to have a few issues with passing the water. Will be great content for the future. The voltage test that I ran in this video was just to show that the turbine is working. I use 10/3 wire to the house and then rectifier. That video is next!
Land to House have you thought about building a concrete gutter? Just a large concrete box leading to a gutter to give it lots of breathing room. Nothing massive, just simple and sensible.
@@davycoolboy4775 The amount you need depends on how high it's coming from. The higher the drop, the less water you need. Also, keep in mind that there are a lot of different turbine designs out there, what's good for low flow high drop won't necessarily be good for short drop high flow.
You can increase the wire size running from the generator to the point of use. That will eliminate a lot of the voltage drop over a long distance. You could also use a line reactor or buck boost transformer to cushion the voltage.
I am liking your build. I am planning the same size project here in Chile on our little homestead to supplement our 10KW off grid system. Love the good advice and sourcing. Jim in Chile
My 15 year Harris Hydro experience has all been with just two nozzles, but they are 7/16" each in peak water times, when I produce 876 watts (33.7 amps @ 26 VDC). 147' of all, thru 3' line in 1/4 mile, it runs at about 60 PSI dynamic.
I am really enjoying this series Seth! Thank you so much for taking the time to share this project with everyone. I would like to make one small suggestion. You have a beautiful turbine. What a fine piece of machinery. But please, please, build it a housing worthy of its beauty. Maybe that is part of your plan, in which case, kindly disregard my suggestion. I think you should consider a concrete structure. I admit I do a lot of work in my shop with leftover lumber and such, so I am speaking to myself. But that is like a Lamborghini parked in a shed. Again, I am learning a lot. Thank you again. Close to the end, now. This is so impressive, even with on jet open.
Sometimes I have these ideas in my head that look way better than when I finish them. This box is one of those. It woks really well but could use some improvements. And it does not look very good. I will have to revisit this box later. One nice thing is the foam. That has really reduced the sound.
Nice job looks great, my system is not to far from yours, i run three jets and found my 4" outlet just couldn't remove the amount of water from the box especially when free wheeling, a second 4" pipe was added and it now works well, i look forward to your next videos. Take care and have fun john
I've been wondering about the differences in efficiency of Pelton vs Turgo wheels for this. It looks to me like the Pelton is affected by turbulence in the chamber where as Turgo is less. I think a Turgo would exhaust better through the same pipe.
As others have mentioned, it's best to run the three phase up to the house and install the rectifier there just ahead of your charge controller. AC at a higher frequency and higher voltage will suffer less loss over the resistance of the long wire run. Now, as to measurement.. The unloaded voltage is kind of useless data. Once it's under load, a measurement of voltage AND amperage downstream of the rectifier will allow you to calculate the actual working power it's producing in watts. Ohms law, Watts = amps times volts. Those measurements should be taken at the output of the charge controller when the batteries are low so it's dumping as much as possible into the batts. You could also measure between the rectifier and charge controller to get a sense of power loss through the charge controller. (it's circuitry will eat a small amount of power.) You'll probably want to mount that rectifier on a heat sink too. It's going to get warm once a load is drawing power.
Yes Rectifier is on the other side of the wire run. The open circuit voltage is important when the charge controller can only handle 200v max. We got close but made it!
Love this series. One suggestion: run your three phase to the house rather than the Rectified DC. There is so much loss with long runs of wire with DC. You could always add a three phase transformer prior to the rectifier to make up for the voltage loss at the house.
Not a bad idea, but some clarification: It's not AC vs. DC that matters, it's the voltage and current that matter. Large currents require very thick copper wires to maintain small losses. For a given power, if you step up the voltage, you lower the current, and that lowers the losses. AC historically was better for long runs because you could use transformers to easily step the voltage up (so current is low for transmission and down for usage. In comparison, it's generally harder to step DC voltage up and down. For example, there are 1 billion volt DC transmission lines in China! If Land to House could get ahold of two 3-phase power transformers, he could step the voltage up for transmission, and then back down for reception. However, this also assumes that the turbine is going to spin at a constant frequency. Power transformers generally can only operate well at a fixed frequency. I think Land to House is really doing the best they can here. Convert straight to DC and just eat the loss. They could go for a thicker wire, but that might cost too much to be worth it.
Brett My understanding was that low and medium voltage DC has a much higher voltage drop per foot than AC. It’s only when you get to the high voltage DC that changes due to specialized math and physics I do not understand. As for the fixed frequency issue. I could be wrong but as the frequency and voltage of the generator are directly proportional shouldn’t the risk of core saturation be negligible? Mathematically speaking, based on my understanding, as long as both your step up and step down transformers maximum voltage and maximum frequency ratings do not exceed the transformers rating you should be fine.
@@Veritas-invenitur Actually, it's the opposite: AC has higher losses per foot of wire due to eddy currents and the skin effect (and even radiation!). At low frequencies (like those used in power transmission or in this video), those effects are negligible, so for the same cable, at the same voltage and current, power transferred using AC or DC has identical losses. Power transformers have a design frequency. If you operate them at lower than design frequency, there won't be enough impedance on the input windings and you will draw too much current, heating up the windings (and destroy them depending on how far off design you go). If you operated at above the design frequency, the primary will have too much impedance and you won't be able to get as much power through the transformer (there's also eddy losses, skin losses, etc). Yes, if the frequency goes up with the voltage, core saturation in the transformer might not be an issue, but core saturation isn't the only problem as stated above.
ashtonsethreimer I just finished my refresher research on the subject and I have come to 2 conclusions. #1 you are right about DC vs AC voltage drop, I forgot about power factor and cross sectional area coming into play. #2 I need to reread the text more often before I speak. Back to the frequency issue. Considering the frequency variations will always be on the high frequency side why wouldn’t a 50/60 hertz transformer work? If anything wouldn’t the higher frequency’s increase efficiency?
It would be interesting. The head pressure is 163 feet from the intake to the turbine over 1100 feet. Now the creek does have a spring just down from the intake that I could gain an extra 1gpm with ram pump.
Cam, I just so this video and I posted the same thought "waste water back up into intake. It makes sense and would make a self-sustaining system. You would have a system that only needs a specific amount of water that feeds back to the turbine. This Micro Hydro is a brilliant system and should be implemented in rural country AND cities. WE need to be self-sustaining people and not dependent. AWESOME!!!!
Well done, Might try a 4" 45° into a 4" Tee.. back of Tee reduced to 3" a 90° up & 90°, 90° (keeps debris out) for vent.. 4" side of Tee (front) is drain.. you can always make front foam a little taller to add more airflow if box is to airtight.. others have already mentioned a/c to house then d/c to batt, you can do that in 1/2-3/4" pvc & trace if burying.. Can't wait to see finished product and load test.. Be Safe
to solve the problem with the water, open the bottom of the wood box the same size of the opening at the bottom of the turbine, then funnel it down to 3" using reduction couplings. this way you will be collecting all the water to the pipe and avoid any problem caused by the water in the box
Good idea. I think that I am going to redesign with PVC trim boards. Make the bottom of the box 9" x 9" like you mention so that the water will drain without obstruction.
pretty much exactly what I was thinking because if the water cant drain then you would also be losing power due to water remaining in the housing and slowing down the turbine
Just came across your video on this turbine setup. I'm pretty impressed with it. Going to go back and look at some of the other videos on your whole installation of this turn my system that you set up. Thank you for sharing. We hit the like button and we added you as well.
I was just thinking that myself. It would prevent the turbine from slowing down and might prevent the water backing up into the box as well. It wouldn't hurt to install a drain in the box so any water that does escape can be drained away rather than filling the box. If something were to go wrong with the motor, then the box would fill quickly and possibly short the electrics.
It's not suction, it's back-pressure causing the problem. If water backs up into the housing of the turbine, surrounding the turbine, it will drag it down. Increase the down angle of the drain line so it doesn't fill up. Too shallow of an angle and gravity can't pull the water away fast enough causing the pipe to fill up. If you actually had a vacuum in the drain pipe, it would lower the atmospheric pressure in the turbine housing and increase the inlet flow, increasing the turbines output.
A Tee and a drain in the bottom of the box wouldn't hurt, just for good measure and only cost a few bucks. Kevin Loughin is right though, it's not a vacuum because that would suck more water through the input causing a spike. When he walked away from the housing after the foam was installed, it appeared to me the outlet pipe had a small upward curve, restricting the flow? Could be just the camera. I would also double up on the outlet pipe (2x 3" runs) so there will never be a capacity problem on the outflow.
@@LandtoHouse I was thinking to cut a square hole in the bottom of the box just big enough to set the turbine in and build a tray larger than the square to catch the water but swedge it down to your 3"or4" what ever size your drain is. just a thought. Good video! Thanks for sharing! God Bless!
That turbine looks pretty well - addressig the noise: your wooden box works like an amplifier, set the turbine on a piece of rubber (available in 60x60cm/2x2ft. to dampen washing machines and dryers) and put dampening foam all around the inside walls and roof. If you think about bolting it down to the box, again use rubber around the bolts to decouple them against structure-borne noise. Regards from Germany.
Wouldn't having 2 nozzles open (on opposite sides) reduce wear on the turbine bearings? It would seem that just 1 nozzle would put pressure on one side of the turbine. I'd think equal pressure on opposite sides of the turbine would equalize wear and extend the life of the turbine.
In most generation installations, have a larger generation room, which can be better to insulate and in your situation, the generator could overheat in its confinement, also a risk that the box could flood.
Foam isn't waterproof but it is plastic so recommended to cut by heat or where you can vacuum it up. Few egg crates in there would dampen the sound even more if needed. That vacuum effect can most likely be solved by an air vent through the blue foam. Just a thought :)
i find it very neat how great analogy water physics is to electrical physics. Valve just open a little, Water pressure high but water flow low = high voltage but low amperage and low effect/watt Valve open maximum, Water pressure drops a lot but maximum water flow = low voltage but maximum amperage and low effect/watt Valve open "just right", Water pressure drops just enough to provide optimal water flow = High voltage and high amperage and good effect/watt. Works exactly like an solar mppt controller. The controller adjust the voltage/amperage ratio for maximum efficiency from solarpanels
E Amigo, na gravação percebemos que o ruído do sistema é alto, e não sei se isso perturbaria o lugar aonde foi instalado, mas dá pra fazer um isolamento acústico de baixo custo com materiais certos para a frequência do ruído, abafando de forma quase inaldivel. Aí sim teria algo maravilhoso sem incomodar com o ruído que antes não existia
Have read a lot of the comments but didn't notice if anyone had mentioned that maybe putting the wires from the turbine through some flexible tubing would keep the mice from chewing on them. The biggest problem will be how to attach it at the turbine housing. This would work even with your new and improved containment box.
Something to consider is using a larger drain pipe, like 4 or 6 inches. The drain needs to flow and the pipe you are using is creating the issues you've described. If you still want you to use that same drain pipe you may want to consider adding a Y Pipe very close to the box then secure it to the box, 90 degree facing up, then add a 2 foot extension to vent the pipe; or however high you can get without interfering with the cover. Maybe even a Tee at the top just below the box cover to allow options for air to vent the pipe. You really don't need a bottom on the unit at all but it will keep animals from nesting there so that is something to consider. Might make sense that 2" feed and 2" exit will just work and most times you'd be right, but this item is different and does not align with the typical laws of Plumbing so one must be able to think outside the proverbial box for solutions. When you test ran the unit it did not vapor lock but as soon as you added the bottom you started having issues. Obviously I'm watching the video or in short on the outside of the fishbowl looking in while you are on the inside of the fishbowl, making said video, and may not see things as clearly as others might. I hope this helps you or perhaps another viewer... Cheers...
Yes, I'd probably go with a plastic catch basin and a somewhat larger outlet pipe than is going in. A clean out for the pipe is probably not a bad idea, although if it's running above ground like that, you could probably just disconnect the pipe if it needs to be cleaned out.
When you run wire from your generator going to your house, don't rectify it, you will have a bigger power loss running long wire in DC. AC is better in transmission since it has small power loss.
@@LandtoHouse AC has inductive and resistive losses, where DC has only resistive loss in the transmission lines and is more efficient. The reason that we use AC in the grid is because its easy to use a transformer to boost or lower the voltage (higher voltage, less ampes less loss). Now a days long transmission lines, use DC. With switching power regulators. For this application, calculate the max current you will generate. And use that to calculate your losses and select a suitable wire size.
У меня вопрос, а где лучше преображать AC в DC от генератора, около турбины или около потребителя? Какой ток лучше передавать, переменный или постоянный на большие растояния?
I think I would install a second turbine and Y or T them off so I would always have power going to the house and be able to do maintenance on a turbine. Build a block shed to hold it all and stay out of the weather and keep maintenance parts on hand.
Parabéns! Fantástico! Penso que posso usar em barco isso, com um tubo externo ao casco na função de tubo de Venturi para gerar a pressão aos bicos? Quantos amperes ele gera por hora ou por dia ligado constantemente
Electrical part should be separated from the hydraulic side. If a pipe leaks, a short circuit can occur and the generator would be defective. The electrical part should be at least IP 67. A short circuit could also injure people.
I have a small stream running through my lower property about 80 feet away. There is a culvert pipe, about 30 inches that allows the water to travel underground for about 50 feet, and then there is a drop of about 15 feet. The stream runs all year. I’m guessing but I’d say it flows about 10 gallons a minute most of the time. In August and July, it may slow down to two or 3 gallons a minute, but I’ve been here 35 years and I’ve never seen it dry.. I am a retired electrician from the local electric company after 38 years. I am very curious about this system. I considered putting some solar panels on my roof, but my roof faces about 30° south east on one side and about 30°to the north east on the other side.. not only that, but I live in a valley with very high trees along the ridges. In the summer, the sun does not come up high enough to clear the trees until about 10 AM, and the sun goes behind the trees on the opposite ridge about 6 PM..so solar would not benefit me to the max... I did work in the field for a few years dealing with meters. I was often sent out to check out a meter that could possibly have not been registering. It turned out that the people had solar panels. When I was entering data into their record, I noticed that The electric company actually paid them over the last year. Two in particular, one had a swimming pool with a heater and a 3 ton air conditioning unit. I don’t know if their house was gas or electric heat but, over the year, we paid them $600 for the energy they put into the grid with their solar panels,And they pay nothing over that year to the electric company for power delivered to their home. They delivered more power to the electric grid than they consumed from the electric grid that year.Another house on the same street, same story, we paid them $50 over the previous year because they had been backfeeding excess generated power by their solar panels back into the grid..They both lived on the top of a hill with sun exposure most of the day. that stream running through my property runs 24/7 /365...tapping into the stream,That would be a more feasible system due to my shaded location.
Does it generate enough power to use a pump with a closed water loop system and use water tanks for storage, one high up for gravity feed to turbine? One water tank lower for catch and collect after the turbine. A simple low power water pump should be able to keep up with the refill of upper tank right? Make water hole smaller for less water consumption and efficency.
Am curious as to why no one has tried putting a few of these units inline between 275 gallon totes and adding a sump pump to recirculate water to overhead totes. Basically making a self contained hydro-elictric plant that syhons off a portion of the power all the time to recharge battery banks or capicator banks and battery banks and running invertors off of those. Only having to add water in the event of leaking. The base to the turbines could be funneled back into bottom totes that interconnect and pump back to top tanks via combination plumbing. Just an thought.
I’m very interested in if this can work on a pool water pump to off set the cost of running my pool filter system! My pump runs 62 gallons a minute they tell me at the pool store with 20 to 30 psi on the filter.
Restricting the output of the pool's pump to nozzles will cause the pump to run much less efficiently and increase the cost to run the pump by more than you could recover.
@@jllaine well I have three return lines to pool at 1/2 . So if I was to reduce them down and add a forth line with 2 x 1/4 to drive the hydroelectric. Wouldn’t that offset the high back pressure to the pump?
@@rimc4378 not really. If the pump is feeding 4 lines, and only one line is restricted by a nozzle, it would be like having a 1" leak in the pipe just before the nozzle. You'd get very little water through the nozzle to run the wheel.
I have to say that checking voltage as what I saw here is pretty much meaning less. The turbine is running in NO load and it will spin fast. Once the turbine is connected to a charge controller or regulator and battery bank it will slow down and the voltage will either be at or just above nominal battery voltage. The jets will have to be adjusted to maintain charging Voltage level .
The reason for checking voltage here is the limits of the charge controller. My midnite 200v unit actually had issues accepting the voltage at times. Had to upgrade to a 250v !
@@LandtoHouse I can go along with that. I would have thought there would be a recommendation for that with the turbine. I built a wind turbine using an older Larger Ford alternator from a 6.9 L diesel once. I rewound the stator and filled it to capacity with 18 g enameled wire. Then I proceeded to construct a circuit to switch off 1 to phases at particular RPM. I did the same thing at first to test the peak Vout. Then chose electronic components for the circuit board. One of the biggest issues with a project like this is preventing the destruction of your circuitry is just what you are talking about here. Sorry for not picking up on that and bringing that point to the conversation. I should have been more on point. I found my peak Vout to be around 65V. I never got the rpm any higher as the efficiency of the props didn't allow it and I wasn't able to drive the rotor any faster with a power drill. I also had experience with one Midnite Solar MPPT charge control I used in a Solar/Wind power setup some time back, I fail to recall the model, it was a 30 amp unit I think . I like the way it converted extra voltage in to higher amp out at lower light levels. The turbine also had MPPT that did the same thing. I wired the panels at 48v and programmed the Midnite accordingly. I have always wanted to build a small hydro system for myself but since I don't have a suitable location or source of water flow, it doesn't look like this will ever happen. One thing I learned with factory built turbines was that when wound with very light G wire, under extreme conditions the stators cooked when the controller attempted to regulate output. With a higher quality controller like a Midnite I guess this is less of an issue. I do know they insist on connecting the controller to the battery first to lower the risk of cooking circuitry ! Also don't turn the turbine loose until all connections are made and secured.
Is there no pressure treated wood on the east coast all these videos I see and everyone is using regular plywood for out door projects cant see them lasting a year
Wasn't meant to be a bad comment soory if it came across that way. I have been watching a lot of videos on this subject and it seems that no one is using treated wood I understand it is not cheap but if your rebuilding it every year may as well pay more
yeah looks like you need to open the bottom fully maybe have a old water tank under that then links to the white pipe then drains back into the creek maybe even free pipe side by side if flow is to great for 1 or 2 pipes also you drain pipe is going up hill at moment maybe a stand pipe as the pipe come out from under the housing add a t with a stand pipe so it will pull air there rather then ay turbine exit
If you run the turbo with only one or two jets, is there a possibility that you might warp the bushing on the hydro shaft? If you run all four it will balance the force on the bushing.
I spoke to Spencer about this and he says there is no way the water and pressure that I have is going to warp the shaft or wear the bearings out faster.
I didn’t read through all the comments, but you can run AC voltages up to 100 feet before any corrections in wire size for voltage drop. Cant you carry the current in AC to where you intend to charge a battery bank where it can be rectified to DC? Depending on the load current at the other end, you may need some heavy gauge expensive wire for a DC run that far. That’s a cool as heck system!
Can you show me a clearer step by step procedure on how to do the turbine please? I live in a remote place where ther is no source for power, even solar is not possible because big trees wont allow sun to penetrate, you project can help me and other people in the wilderness thank you
You need to vent that drainpipe that'll solve your back pressure problem. I assume the 200v reading is DC? Why not run the 3 phase to the building then rectify it? No loss....
The inlet has potential energy due to the pressure of the water. The water from the outlet lacks that pressure because the turbine has extracted that energy. What you're seeking is a perpetual motion machine, which violates the laws of thermodynamics.
While i agree with the first answer i do believe you could “recycle” a portion back into the supply pond or river which could in theory help to not reduce the levels too much like what happened in the video of the dam where it was using up the supply quickly
@@Dravira You would need to expend energy to return that water to the pond uphill from the turbine (via a pump), you would negate the energy you've generated with the turbine.
Clayton Hansen true if going that route, however with some ingenuity you could come up with a system to divert some back uphill using another method it would just take a lot of extra work and another contraption to make it happen using another section of the stream to help pull it back up, in theory you could do it but easiest way would just to be to divert some of the power to a pump which if producing enough wouldn’t be an issue regardless. But then again now you have to maintain a pump that is just another additional piece of the puzzle
Clayton Hansen my initial plan of thought would be using a barrel to collect in and once it fills to a certain point the pressure would be high enough to send it back up. Not sure what the elevation change is but if its not crazy it could be doable
If you had a valute that kept the flow tight to the blades there would be more efficient flow without cavitation or vortex flow loss. Keep the turbine then at just below water level but the output at. The lowest point possible so the water causes as negative pressure pulling the turbine blades rather than flooding the unit. 3/4" pipe carries 7 1/2 pound of negative pressure per 10' of drop with a straight vertical drop. ( use as little elbows as possible, they have the effect of 25' of pipe in static pressure per 90°ell. A large pipe creates more negative pressure to drive but you cannot have a pipe larger than the input unless you set the input about 3' below the water line at the input. The vallute will keep the blades moving efficiently as long as you dont pull air and your piping isnt too large. (You can find hydronic equations online for pump sizing according to flow rate and backward figure your pipe size from what you already have purchased). Tell your turbine "expert he shoulda consulted a boilerman before designing that highly inefficient turbine box. Use common sense and exercise your research abilities online to find your best alternatives to problems rather than doing trial and error that cost bundles of bucks. As I said, you dont want pressure into the pump, but tighten the tolerances in the turbine and use the negative pressure to pull the turbine. That eliminates all the flooding problems and leaks. (Common sense).
Thank you for the video. Figure my ignorance, where's the water coming from? Guessing the creek. What did you hook up to pull the water from the creek? Also what are you going to do with the electricity?
Hello. Each of those questions are answered in the series. I get the water from the creek. It is flowing around 30gpm. I use a wooden box with screen over it to capture the water and then filter it in a barrel before it goes down the penstock. I use the power in the house. It saves around $30 a month.
I think that's not suction but your tailstock backing up filling the turbine space and the wheel is running in water. That's drag on your system. Pelton wheels are intended for a horizontal axis. A turgo wheel can run vertical or horizontal axis. Either wheel depends on the water escaping out the bottom and not interfering with the rotation. To get maximum power your wheel should run at half the velocity of the water. There should be a flange around the bottom of the housing that you can attach a flange to that extends below your box floor. That should keep the water out of your box. I'd suggest on open flume to move the water away. A pipe will fill up and back into the turbine.
У этой турбины 4 водных крана, а как Вы подбираете напор на каждом сопле? Ведь в начале трубы(первое сопло) и в конце(на последнем сопле) напор воды будет разный
A good demonstration. I have one question. Our households will require 220 -240 volts of power. This unit will produce less than that. How do we top up?
Electronics and artwork are commonly shipped in Eggcrate Soundproofing Foam. Maybe you could call and ask for discards to reduce decibels. "Pinky filter pads" can double as water filtration and acoustic absorbent material. I also worry if the housing will stay cool enough. Is the water running through the pump cold enough to keep it from overheating when the housing is closed? I am really enjoying this series. -KJ
Nobody said what pushes tbe water into the turbine, is it one of those pumps that work directly off of the stream pressure or have you got an electric pump that supplies the pressure
That is a super cool unit. Not to be critical as an asshole but 15ft. from your creek will cause untold damage. I would think you might have figured that out by now since its 6 months later at this point. I have a pond with a 4 in. overflow pipe, no pressure at all, and it has put a 2 ft. hole in the creekbed it runs into. Water where water usually isn't can be devastating. Especially in forestland where things are much more fragile than they look. I hope it turned out ok. I wish I had one of those units. I would probably cut off a bucket and fit a 4 in. pipe to the bottom to drain and still drill a couple good sized holes toward the top in case of overflow, with a couple holes in the housing floor and screen on the bottom side to keep rodents out. Maybe a bit taller housing also.
Where is the water coming from?
th-cam.com/video/zPIec9VCrOY/w-d-xo.html
Watch the series from part 1.
How much watt generate
Between 50w and 300w depending on the rainfall.
The box is acting like a speaker. If you mount it to a block of concrete or slab. Your foam is working well. You should run the AC to the house and put your rectifier close to the batteries. You'll have less voltage drop with the AC over the longer wire run than with DC on the long run, also you can use smaller wire with the AC.
I agree as ac is just like a tide where it pushes and pulls on a few electrons rather than trying to shove a bunch with pressure were the efficiency is less and while there is sag with wires it would be less prevalent with ac over dc
Actually HVDC has less losses than HVAC over distance, but I'm not sure he's dealing with what is to be considered HV or not. If not it doesn't really matter.
AC is only better because of the associated higher voltage. If the 3 to 2 wire converter is only diodes (no transformer), then the efficiency won't change by moving the converter closer/farther.
@@anti-cmos1349 Nope, it isn't HVAC and if rectified, it would not be HVDC. Even playing with the Smartdrive motors you still aren't in HVAC ranges. HVAC is in the range of 1KV and higher in most of the world. In the US, we don't consider anything under 100KV to be HVAC when it comes to grid power. For DC it is 1.5KV or better to be considered HVDC in most of the world. The US has had DC Voltages in the 3000VDC range on catenary wires feeding our trains for decades so again, we have higher levels before considering it HVDC.
When you said you should of used a more rigid metal. But the aluminum was what you had. I smiled thinking of all the projects I have done using just what I had. It’s a frontier mentality. This kind of thinking is invaluable on a homestead. I just built a 5000 watt solar generator with 1200 watts of solar panels. I wish I had a source of water to add a hydro turbine to the system. I’m building a wind turbine from salvaged components to power my shed and chicken coop also. Thanks for the great videos. Keep it up.
Hey Bud! I think a drain box underneath might be better especially when you use all 4 jets. All the splashing can cause a problem with the jets etc. I’m assuming your sending DC voltage to the house and if nobody has mentioned it yet you don’t have to take those losses. Rule of thumb is always make your long runs with AC voltage, the losses are very small. Even if you cheat and use the ground wire as the third phase it better than a DC voltage run. 12 gauge 3 conductor would work just fine for your situation then install the rectifier next to the controller. Voila!, no DC loss. If you watch Joe Malovich he used extension cord wire from the hydro to the rectifier in the house. It’s looking great so far, keep it up. Best of luck!
That turbine box will likely need a nice overhaul at some point. It has been great to get get an initial test but it seems to have a few issues with passing the water. Will be great content for the future. The voltage test that I ran in this video was just to show that the turbine is working. I use 10/3 wire to the house and then rectifier. That video is next!
Land to House have you thought about building a concrete gutter? Just a large concrete box leading to a gutter to give it lots of breathing room. Nothing massive, just simple and sensible.
Do you need a specific amount of water to have a system like this? And what if i have a lil river being my house can i install it just like this one?
can I ask you questions Bill?
@@davycoolboy4775 The amount you need depends on how high it's coming from. The higher the drop, the less water you need. Also, keep in mind that there are a lot of different turbine designs out there, what's good for low flow high drop won't necessarily be good for short drop high flow.
Fascinating, and yeah the pelton wheel is probably slowing down when the chamber becomes flooded and the wheel is completely immersed.
You can increase the wire size running from the generator to the point of use. That will eliminate a lot of the voltage drop over a long distance. You could also use a line reactor or buck boost transformer to cushion the voltage.
I am liking your build. I am planning the same size project here in Chile on our little homestead to supplement our 10KW off grid system. Love the good advice and sourcing. Jim in Chile
My 15 year Harris Hydro experience has all been with just two nozzles, but they are 7/16" each in peak water times, when I produce 876 watts (33.7 amps @ 26 VDC). 147' of all, thru 3' line in 1/4 mile, it runs at about 60 PSI dynamic.
I am really enjoying this series Seth! Thank you so much for taking the time to share this project with everyone. I would like to make one small suggestion. You have a beautiful turbine. What a fine piece of machinery. But please, please, build it a housing worthy of its beauty. Maybe that is part of your plan, in which case, kindly disregard my suggestion. I think you should consider a concrete structure. I admit I do a lot of work in my shop with leftover lumber and such, so I am speaking to myself. But that is like a Lamborghini parked in a shed. Again, I am learning a lot. Thank you again. Close to the end, now. This is so impressive, even with on jet open.
Sometimes I have these ideas in my head that look way better than when I finish them. This box is one of those. It woks really well but could use some improvements. And it does not look very good. I will have to revisit this box later. One nice thing is the foam. That has really reduced the sound.
Nice job looks great, my system is not to far from yours, i run three jets and found my 4" outlet just couldn't remove the amount of water from the box especially when free wheeling, a second 4" pipe was added and it now works well, i look forward to your next videos.
Take care and have fun
john
I've been wondering about the differences in efficiency of Pelton vs Turgo wheels for this. It looks to me like the Pelton is affected by turbulence in the chamber where as Turgo is less. I think a Turgo would exhaust better through the same pipe.
As others have mentioned, it's best to run the three phase up to the house and install the rectifier there just ahead of your charge controller. AC at a higher frequency and higher voltage will suffer less loss over the resistance of the long wire run.
Now, as to measurement.. The unloaded voltage is kind of useless data. Once it's under load, a measurement of voltage AND amperage downstream of the rectifier will allow you to calculate the actual working power it's producing in watts. Ohms law, Watts = amps times volts. Those measurements should be taken at the output of the charge controller when the batteries are low so it's dumping as much as possible into the batts. You could also measure between the rectifier and charge controller to get a sense of power loss through the charge controller. (it's circuitry will eat a small amount of power.)
You'll probably want to mount that rectifier on a heat sink too. It's going to get warm once a load is drawing power.
Yes Rectifier is on the other side of the wire run.
The open circuit voltage is important when the charge controller can only handle 200v max. We got close but made it!
Love this series. One suggestion: run your three phase to the house rather than the Rectified DC. There is so much loss with long runs of wire with DC. You could always add a three phase transformer prior to the rectifier to make up for the voltage loss at the house.
Yes, definitely! Run the longest distance AC. Much less power loss in the cables!
Not a bad idea, but some clarification: It's not AC vs. DC that matters, it's the voltage and current that matter. Large currents require very thick copper wires to maintain small losses. For a given power, if you step up the voltage, you lower the current, and that lowers the losses.
AC historically was better for long runs because you could use transformers to easily step the voltage up (so current is low for transmission and down for usage. In comparison, it's generally harder to step DC voltage up and down. For example, there are 1 billion volt DC transmission lines in China!
If Land to House could get ahold of two 3-phase power transformers, he could step the voltage up for transmission, and then back down for reception. However, this also assumes that the turbine is going to spin at a constant frequency. Power transformers generally can only operate well at a fixed frequency.
I think Land to House is really doing the best they can here. Convert straight to DC and just eat the loss. They could go for a thicker wire, but that might cost too much to be worth it.
Brett My understanding was that low and medium voltage DC has a much higher voltage drop per foot than AC. It’s only when you get to the high voltage DC that changes due to specialized math and physics I do not understand. As for the fixed frequency issue. I could be wrong but as the frequency and voltage of the generator are directly proportional shouldn’t the risk of core saturation be negligible? Mathematically speaking, based on my understanding, as long as both your step up and step down transformers maximum voltage and maximum frequency ratings do not exceed the transformers rating you should be fine.
@@Veritas-invenitur Actually, it's the opposite: AC has higher losses per foot of wire due to eddy currents and the skin effect (and even radiation!). At low frequencies (like those used in power transmission or in this video), those effects are negligible, so for the same cable, at the same voltage and current, power transferred using AC or DC has identical losses.
Power transformers have a design frequency. If you operate them at lower than design frequency, there won't be enough impedance on the input windings and you will draw too much current, heating up the windings (and destroy them depending on how far off design you go). If you operated at above the design frequency, the primary will have too much impedance and you won't be able to get as much power through the transformer (there's also eddy losses, skin losses, etc).
Yes, if the frequency goes up with the voltage, core saturation in the transformer might not be an issue, but core saturation isn't the only problem as stated above.
ashtonsethreimer I just finished my refresher research on the subject and I have come to 2 conclusions. #1 you are right about DC vs AC voltage drop, I forgot about power factor and cross sectional area coming into play. #2 I need to reread the text more often before I speak. Back to the frequency issue. Considering the frequency variations will always be on the high frequency side why wouldn’t a 50/60 hertz transformer work? If anything wouldn’t the higher frequency’s increase efficiency?
I'd love to see you use a ram pump to move some of the waste water back up into the intake. Would also be useful in more dry seasons too
It would be interesting. The head pressure is 163 feet from the intake to the turbine over 1100 feet. Now the creek does have a spring just down from the intake that I could gain an extra 1gpm with ram pump.
Cam, I just so this video and I posted the same thought "waste water back up into intake. It makes sense and would make a self-sustaining system. You would have a system that only needs a specific amount of water that feeds back to the turbine.
This Micro Hydro is a brilliant system and should be implemented in rural country AND cities. WE need to be self-sustaining people and not dependent. AWESOME!!!!
King starboard in black or white...we use it a lot in the boating industry...it comes in several thickness...great project!
Well done,
Might try a 4" 45° into a 4" Tee.. back of Tee reduced to 3" a 90° up & 90°, 90° (keeps debris out) for vent.. 4" side of Tee (front) is drain.. you can always make front foam a little taller to add more airflow if box is to airtight.. others have already mentioned a/c to house then d/c to batt, you can do that in 1/2-3/4" pvc & trace if burying..
Can't wait to see finished product and load test..
Be Safe
Discrà Dr cd do rn
Xàrà tree ddaredrtree
Quarter
to solve the problem with the water, open the bottom of the wood box the same size of the opening at the bottom of the turbine, then funnel it down to 3" using reduction couplings. this way you will be collecting all the water to the pipe and avoid any problem caused by the water in the box
Good idea. I think that I am going to redesign with PVC trim boards. Make the bottom of the box 9" x 9" like you mention so that the water will drain without obstruction.
pretty much exactly what I was thinking because if the water cant drain then you would also be losing power due to water remaining in the housing and slowing down the turbine
Just came across your video on this turbine setup. I'm pretty impressed with it. Going to go back and look at some of the other videos on your whole installation of this turn my system that you set up. Thank you for sharing. We hit the like button and we added you as well.
Thank you for watching. There are several hydro install videos on the channel.
I would put a tee under the box instead of a 90. And on the other side of the tee make it a vent line above the box so you don't have the suction
I was just thinking that myself. It would prevent the turbine from slowing down and might prevent the water backing up into the box as well. It wouldn't hurt to install a drain in the box so any water that does escape can be drained away rather than filling the box. If something were to go wrong with the motor, then the box would fill quickly and possibly short the electrics.
It's not suction, it's back-pressure causing the problem. If water backs up into the housing of the turbine, surrounding the turbine, it will drag it down. Increase the down angle of the drain line so it doesn't fill up. Too shallow of an angle and gravity can't pull the water away fast enough causing the pipe to fill up.
If you actually had a vacuum in the drain pipe, it would lower the atmospheric pressure in the turbine housing and increase the inlet flow, increasing the turbines output.
A Tee and a drain in the bottom of the box wouldn't hurt, just for good measure and only cost a few bucks.
Kevin Loughin is right though, it's not a vacuum because that would suck more water through the input causing a spike.
When he walked away from the housing after the foam was installed, it appeared to me the outlet pipe had a small upward curve, restricting the flow? Could be just the camera. I would also double up on the outlet pipe (2x 3" runs) so there will never be a capacity problem on the outflow.
Está genial.
Al pasar el agua por los inyectores el agua debe ser siempre limpia, se puede producir una obstrucción por suciedad o tiene filtros?
I have never been so excited to watch a series like yours. Thanks
Thank you! That means a lot! There is an off grid system coming up next.
@@LandtoHouse can you share micro hydro turbine technical detail and you can share me micro hydro turbine product for my further endeavour
I love these kinds of equipment!
Me too.
Very interesting series. I cannot wait to see the final outcome.
There are many things I would have done differently for sure (and have done differently with my turbine). Good to see it spinning though.
I would love to hear those things. You have the experience and understanding!
Hey Joe i know you'd go with a circular pipes to the valves say it man!
@@LandtoHouse I was thinking to cut a square hole in the bottom of the box just big enough to set the turbine in and build a tray larger than the square to catch the water but swedge it down to your 3"or4" what ever size your drain is. just a thought. Good video! Thanks for sharing! God Bless!
That turbine looks pretty well - addressig the noise: your wooden box works like an amplifier, set the turbine on a piece of rubber (available in 60x60cm/2x2ft. to dampen washing machines and dryers) and put dampening foam all around the inside walls and roof. If you think about bolting it down to the box, again use rubber around the bolts to decouple them against structure-borne noise. Regards from Germany.
Wouldn't having 2 nozzles open (on opposite sides) reduce wear on the turbine bearings? It would seem that just 1 nozzle would put pressure on one side of the turbine. I'd think equal pressure on opposite sides of the turbine would equalize wear and extend the life of the turbine.
I had the same question. Langston says the pressure from this water is not enough to be an issue with this pma.
That would heavily depend on what type of bearings used
In most generation installations, have a larger generation room, which can be better to insulate and in your situation, the generator could overheat in its confinement, also a risk that the box could flood.
Splendid! Looking forward to seeing the completed product hooked up and using the power.
Foam isn't waterproof but it is plastic so recommended to cut by heat or where you can vacuum it up. Few egg crates in there would dampen the sound even more if needed.
That vacuum effect can most likely be solved by an air vent through the blue foam.
Just a thought :)
i find it very neat how great analogy water physics is to electrical physics.
Valve just open a little, Water pressure high but water flow low = high voltage but low amperage and low effect/watt
Valve open maximum, Water pressure drops a lot but maximum water flow = low voltage but maximum amperage and low effect/watt
Valve open "just right", Water pressure drops just enough to provide optimal water flow = High voltage and high amperage and good effect/watt. Works exactly like an solar mppt controller. The controller adjust the voltage/amperage ratio for maximum efficiency from solarpanels
E Amigo, na gravação percebemos que o ruído do sistema é alto, e não sei se isso perturbaria o lugar aonde foi instalado, mas dá pra fazer um isolamento acústico de baixo custo com materiais certos para a frequência do ruído, abafando de forma quase inaldivel.
Aí sim teria algo maravilhoso sem incomodar com o ruído que antes não existia
Have read a lot of the comments but didn't notice if anyone had mentioned that maybe putting the wires from the turbine through some flexible tubing would keep the mice from chewing on them. The biggest problem will be how to attach it at the turbine housing. This would work even with your new and improved containment box.
And most people that have their turbine setups ventilated so it doesn't overheat. so so much for keeping an airtight and the bugs out.
Mine is airtight but also buried with lots of volume in the pit.
you could also put in a drain vent like in a house if you have vac issues still
Para aumentar más la eficiencia, deberías de enviar la electricidad en alterna hasta la placa de diodos o rectificador dentro de la casas,
Why not bring it into the house as AC power then bridge rectify it to DC to charge battery banks?Seems like there would be a lot of voltage drop as DC
In the next video you see where the rectifier is installed. It is in the house close to the batteries.
I cant believe you responded!
@@kylefleetwood9572 Great last name.
@@MrDemolitionmission great to see im not alone with it
7:03 Lil beetle go: "Too much water here, gonna hide in that box now!"
19:25 Look at your screwdriver shaking. If that falls in that could really ruin your day/wallet/whatever the sparks land on, on a dry day.
luckily no issues!
Something to consider is using a larger drain pipe, like 4 or 6 inches. The drain needs to flow and the pipe you are using is creating the issues you've described. If you still want you to use that same drain pipe you may want to consider adding a Y Pipe very close to the box then secure it to the box, 90 degree facing up, then add a 2 foot extension to vent the pipe; or however high you can get without interfering with the cover. Maybe even a Tee at the top just below the box cover to allow options for air to vent the pipe. You really don't need a bottom on the unit at all but it will keep animals from nesting there so that is something to consider. Might make sense that 2" feed and 2" exit will just work and most times you'd be right, but this item is different and does not align with the typical laws of Plumbing so one must be able to think outside the proverbial box for solutions. When you test ran the unit it did not vapor lock but as soon as you added the bottom you started having issues. Obviously I'm watching the video or in short on the outside of the fishbowl looking in while you are on the inside of the fishbowl, making said video, and may not see things as clearly as others might. I hope this helps you or perhaps another viewer... Cheers...
Yes, I'd probably go with a plastic catch basin and a somewhat larger outlet pipe than is going in. A clean out for the pipe is probably not a bad idea, although if it's running above ground like that, you could probably just disconnect the pipe if it needs to be cleaned out.
When you run wire from your generator going to your house, don't rectify it, you will have a bigger power loss running long wire in DC. AC is better in transmission since it has small power loss.
Please continue watching the series and you'll see that I run AC to the house
@@LandtoHouse AC has inductive and resistive losses, where DC has only resistive loss in the transmission lines and is more efficient. The reason that we use AC in the grid is because its easy to use a transformer to boost or lower the voltage (higher voltage, less ampes less loss). Now a days long transmission lines, use DC. With switching power regulators.
For this application, calculate the max current you will generate. And use that to calculate your losses and select a suitable wire size.
Where is the water coming from> What is the source? Greater context would be great, thanks!
This is a 10 part series. Please check the description for the other 9 parts. It shows the source.
У меня вопрос, а где лучше преображать AC в DC от генератора, около турбины или около потребителя? Какой ток лучше передавать, переменный или постоянный на большие растояния?
I think I would install a second turbine and Y or T them off so I would always have power going to the house and be able to do maintenance on a turbine. Build a block shed to hold it all and stay out of the weather and keep maintenance parts on hand.
Gr8 project. For much better noise absorption use acoustic foam. I used it on my stand by generator
You have so many cool toys! Wish I could come over and try some of my ideas!
I think you should put a wheel to the pump switch. This will make it easier for you while opening it.
Well done, really good🌺🌸
Parabéns! Fantástico! Penso que posso usar em barco isso, com um tubo externo ao casco na função de tubo de Venturi para gerar a pressão aos bicos? Quantos amperes ele gera por hora ou por dia ligado constantemente
Qual o motor vc está usando para criar a energia???
Electrical part should be separated from the hydraulic side. If a pipe leaks, a short circuit can occur and the generator would be defective.
The electrical part should be at least IP 67.
A short circuit could also injure people.
Thanks for uploading this video.
In your next video could you please put load on it & see how it runs. Also show the intake of water into turbine.
I never intended to make my own diy power station thingie but i still watched the videos
Thank you for watching! I hope it was worth the time ! :)
Yeah this is me. I'll never build a ram pump or generate off grid power or be self sufficient, but it's damn cool to see someone else do it
That's delicious, am imagining how cool if you hook the rectifier to the charge controller to a battery, can't wait for the outcome man!
The next two videos will give you the answer on that. it's pretty great.
I have a small stream running through my lower property about 80 feet away. There is a culvert pipe, about 30 inches that allows the water to travel underground for about 50 feet, and then there is a drop of about 15 feet. The stream runs all year. I’m guessing but I’d say it flows about 10 gallons a minute most of the time. In August and July, it may slow down to two or 3 gallons a minute, but I’ve been here 35 years and I’ve never seen it dry..
I am a retired electrician from the local electric company after 38 years. I am very curious about this system. I considered putting some solar panels on my roof, but my roof faces about 30° south east on one side and about 30°to the north east on the other side.. not only that, but I live in a valley with very high trees along the ridges. In the summer, the sun does not come up high enough to clear the trees until about 10 AM, and the sun goes behind the trees on the opposite ridge about 6 PM..so solar would not benefit me to the max...
I did work in the field for a few years dealing with meters. I was often sent out to check out a meter that could possibly have not been registering. It turned out that the people had solar panels. When I was entering data into their record, I noticed that The electric company actually paid them over the last year. Two in particular, one had a swimming pool with a heater and a 3 ton air conditioning unit. I don’t know if their house was gas or electric heat but, over the year, we paid them $600 for the energy they put into the grid with their solar panels,And they pay nothing over that year to the electric company for power delivered to their home. They delivered more power to the electric grid than they consumed from the electric grid that year.Another house on the same street, same story, we paid them $50 over the previous year because they had been backfeeding excess generated power by their solar panels back into the grid..They both lived on the top of a hill with sun exposure most of the day.
that stream running through my property runs 24/7 /365...tapping into the stream,That would be a more feasible system due to my shaded location.
I would add a split on the output pipe to let the vacuum brake in the pipe. just like for toilet or a sink.
That seems like a good idea. The pipe is working really well now that I pressed it down in the middle.
you need way bigger outflow.
you also need a load to slow that thing down before you overspeed it.
The full spin up with load is in part 9.
Definitivamente é o projeto mais bacana, bonito e que velocidade obtida, incrível
Parabéns pelo feito Amigo
Awesome set up! More than anyone needs!
Thanks for watching!
Subscribed way cool project, like that your trying to get the used water back to the creek
What is the reason for using ball valves instead of gate valves?
Ball Valves are superior in pretty much every way... I can't think if any scenario where I would pick a gate valve over a ball valve.
Does it generate enough power to use a pump with a closed water loop system and use water tanks for storage, one high up for gravity feed to turbine? One water tank lower for catch and collect after the turbine. A simple low power water pump should be able to keep up with the refill of upper tank right? Make water hole smaller for less water consumption and efficency.
3" outflow pipe isn't large enough for your drainage requirements/volume. ++ Add a pipe vent to prevent any vacuums.
I will have to do that!
Am curious as to why no one has tried putting a few of these units inline between 275 gallon totes and adding a sump pump to recirculate water to overhead totes. Basically making a self contained hydro-elictric plant that syhons off a portion of the power all the time to recharge battery banks or capicator banks and battery banks and running invertors off of those. Only having to add water in the event of leaking. The base to the turbines could be funneled back into bottom totes that interconnect and pump back to top tanks via combination plumbing. Just an thought.
I’m very interested in if this can work on a pool water pump to off set the cost of running my pool filter system! My pump runs 62 gallons a minute they tell me at the pool store with 20 to 30 psi on the filter.
Restricting the output of the pool's pump to nozzles will cause the pump to run much less efficiently and increase the cost to run the pump by more than you could recover.
@@jllaine well I have three return lines to pool at 1/2 . So if I was to reduce them down and add a forth line with 2 x 1/4 to drive the hydroelectric. Wouldn’t that offset the high back pressure to the pump?
@@jllaine thx you for your reply on this 👍
@@rimc4378 not really. If the pump is feeding 4 lines, and only one line is restricted by a nozzle, it would be like having a 1" leak in the pipe just before the nozzle. You'd get very little water through the nozzle to run the wheel.
You need to put a stack into the chamber the water drops into. This will get rid.of.the vacuum issue. Basic plumbing.
I have to say that checking voltage as what I saw here is pretty much meaning less. The turbine is running in NO load and it will spin fast. Once the turbine is connected to a charge controller or regulator and battery bank it will slow down and the voltage will either be at or just above nominal battery voltage. The jets will have to be adjusted to maintain charging Voltage level .
The reason for checking voltage here is the limits of the charge controller. My midnite 200v unit actually had issues accepting the voltage at times. Had to upgrade to a 250v !
@@LandtoHouse I can go along with that. I would have thought there would be a recommendation for that with the turbine. I built a wind turbine using an older Larger Ford alternator from a 6.9 L diesel once. I rewound the stator and filled it to capacity with 18 g enameled wire. Then I proceeded to construct a circuit to switch off 1 to phases at particular RPM. I did the same thing at first to test the peak Vout. Then chose electronic components for the circuit board. One of the biggest issues with a project like this is preventing the destruction of your circuitry is just what you are talking about here. Sorry for not picking up on that and bringing that point to the conversation. I should have been more on point. I found my peak Vout to be around 65V. I never got the rpm any higher as the efficiency of the props didn't allow it and I wasn't able to drive the rotor any faster with a power drill. I also had experience with one Midnite Solar MPPT charge control I used in a Solar/Wind power setup some time back, I fail to recall the model, it was a 30 amp unit I think . I like the way it converted extra voltage in to higher amp out at lower light levels. The turbine also had MPPT that did the same thing. I wired the panels at 48v and programmed the Midnite accordingly. I have always wanted to build a small hydro system for myself but since I don't have a suitable location or source of water flow, it doesn't look like this will ever happen. One thing I learned with factory built turbines was that when wound with very light G wire, under extreme conditions the stators cooked when the controller attempted to regulate output. With a higher quality controller like a Midnite I guess this is less of an issue. I do know they insist on connecting the controller to the battery first to lower the risk of cooking circuitry ! Also don't turn the turbine loose until all connections are made and secured.
Why didn’t you do all this testing with all the jets open?
Is there no pressure treated wood on the east coast all these videos I see and everyone is using regular plywood for out door projects cant see them lasting a year
Did we use some non treated in this video? I can't remember... anyway regular 1/2" osb reached $22 a sheet today. In December it was $8.
I am building a deck. A 12 foot 6x6 treated was.....$54
Wasn't meant to be a bad comment soory if it came across that way. I have been watching a lot of videos on this subject and it seems that no one is using treated wood I understand it is not cheap but if your rebuilding it every year may as well pay more
@@tfoley455 oh. The good news is my hydro housing is treated and so is my intake box.
You got the sound of the rain masking the sound of the turbo.
God bless these ppl who committed to protect mother nature ❤️🌱🌏🌎🌍
yeah looks like you need to open the bottom fully maybe have a old water tank under that then links to the white pipe then drains back into the creek maybe even free pipe side by side if flow is to great for 1 or 2 pipes also you drain pipe is going up hill at moment maybe a stand pipe as the pipe come out from under the housing add a t with a stand pipe so it will pull air there rather then ay turbine exit
If you run the turbo with only one or two jets, is there a possibility that you might warp the bushing on the hydro shaft? If you run all four it will balance the force on the bushing.
I spoke to Spencer about this and he says there is no way the water and pressure that I have is going to warp the shaft or wear the bearings out faster.
You could always use jets on opposite sides of the turbine to counter balance.
Oh my God, this is transcendently cool. Off grid power 💘 💕 ❤
Made with on grid products. Lol
Would love to do a website with all these different products to help get the word out sis amazing stuff love it thank you for your videos
That valve works for you?, I think an upgrade will be a gate valve, i mean the ram will be more controlled
Well ... the valve froze and broke in the winter. Now I have a ball valve.
@@LandtoHouse ohh my... well hope the new valve works perfect 👌
nice alt.good job.would like to see voltage under a certain load
Yes continue to part 9 and you will see it loaded!
*muito bom sua ideia , este vídeo veio parar aqui no Brasil*
This is a commendable project.
I didn’t read through all the comments, but you can run AC voltages up to 100 feet before any corrections in wire size for voltage drop. Cant you carry the current in AC to where you intend to charge a battery bank where it can be rectified to DC? Depending on the load current at the other end, you may need some heavy gauge expensive wire for a DC run that far. That’s a cool as heck system!
Can you show me a clearer step by step procedure on how to do the turbine please? I live in a remote place where ther is no source for power, even solar is not possible because big trees wont allow sun to penetrate, you project can help me and other people in the wilderness thank you
water wind fire combined. Ram pump wind and solar. Gas as backup. Never run out of power
CAPTAIN PLANET!!!
It would have been interesting to see how it ran with all 4 jets and how that affected the water pressure.
The thing is made to run on all four jets. Why only run one?
Running it with no load is asking for trouble. I am sure we will get to see it running full bore once fully installed. ✔️ one step at a time.
How did you fix the vacuum problem you said was happening when you installed the blue foam on the bottom?
Can you connect a ram pump to the outlet and maybe pump water while making electricity
Still wondering that using active MOSFET rectifier will squeeze extra efficiency out of that PMA.
You need to vent that drainpipe that'll solve your back pressure problem. I assume the 200v reading is DC? Why not run the 3 phase to the building then rectify it? No loss....
It's looking good and coming along
Just a quick question ..may be it is a stupid question.. but what happens if we pass the outlet water back to inlet and so it works like a cycle
The inlet has potential energy due to the pressure of the water. The water from the outlet lacks that pressure because the turbine has extracted that energy. What you're seeking is a perpetual motion machine, which violates the laws of thermodynamics.
While i agree with the first answer i do believe you could “recycle” a portion back into the supply pond or river which could in theory help to not reduce the levels too much like what happened in the video of the dam where it was using up the supply quickly
@@Dravira You would need to expend energy to return that water to the pond uphill from the turbine (via a pump), you would negate the energy you've generated with the turbine.
Clayton Hansen true if going that route, however with some ingenuity you could come up with a system to divert some back uphill using another method it would just take a lot of extra work and another contraption to make it happen using another section of the stream to help pull it back up, in theory you could do it but easiest way would just to be to divert some of the power to a pump which if producing enough wouldn’t be an issue regardless. But then again now you have to maintain a pump that is just another additional piece of the puzzle
Clayton Hansen my initial plan of thought would be using a barrel to collect in and once it fills to a certain point the pressure would be high enough to send it back up. Not sure what the elevation change is but if its not crazy it could be doable
Really interesting video. Thanks
I would have liked to have seen the bottom.
If you had a valute that kept the flow tight to the blades there would be more efficient flow without cavitation or vortex flow loss.
Keep the turbine then at just below water level but the output at. The lowest point possible so the water causes as negative pressure pulling the turbine blades rather than flooding the unit.
3/4" pipe carries 7 1/2 pound of negative pressure per 10' of drop with a straight vertical drop. ( use as little elbows as possible, they have the effect of 25' of pipe in static pressure per 90°ell.
A large pipe creates more negative pressure to drive but you cannot have a pipe larger than the input unless you set the input about 3' below the water line at the input.
The vallute will keep the blades moving efficiently as long as you dont pull air and your piping isnt too large.
(You can find hydronic equations online for pump sizing according to flow rate and backward figure your pipe size from what you already have purchased).
Tell your turbine "expert he shoulda consulted a boilerman before designing that highly inefficient turbine box.
Use common sense and exercise your research abilities online to find your best alternatives to problems rather than doing trial and error that cost bundles of bucks.
As I said, you dont want pressure into the pump, but tighten the tolerances in the turbine and use the negative pressure to pull the turbine.
That eliminates all the flooding problems and leaks.
(Common sense).
Thank you for the video. Figure my ignorance, where's the water coming from? Guessing the creek. What did you hook up to pull the water from the creek? Also what are you going to do with the electricity?
Hello. Each of those questions are answered in the series. I get the water from the creek. It is flowing around 30gpm. I use a wooden box with screen over it to capture the water and then filter it in a barrel before it goes down the penstock. I use the power in the house. It saves around $30 a month.
How do you pressurise the water?
Rudy Lovato he used a pump. Watch a few of his videos.
@@ScreenPrintR
Thank you
I think that's not suction but your tailstock backing up filling the turbine space and the wheel is running in water. That's drag on your system. Pelton wheels are intended for a horizontal axis. A turgo wheel can run vertical or horizontal axis. Either wheel depends on the water escaping out the bottom and not interfering with the rotation. To get maximum power your wheel should run at half the velocity of the water. There should be a flange around the bottom of the housing that you can attach a flange to that extends below your box floor. That should keep the water out of your box. I'd suggest on open flume to move the water away. A pipe will fill up and back into the turbine.
У этой турбины 4 водных крана, а как Вы подбираете напор на каждом сопле? Ведь в начале трубы(первое сопло) и в конце(на последнем сопле) напор воды будет разный
A good demonstration. I have one question. Our households will require 220 -240 volts of power. This unit will produce less than that. How do we top up?
sir iam watching your videos from India and you really did it..awsome🤭🤭🤭
can i insatall in my home
How many amps did u get pl?
I think today was 3.5 amps at 89v.
@@LandtoHouse h&hh&hhhhhh&hh&hh
Does the water go right back to the well? What provides water pressure?
A creek 150 feet up the mountain.
@@LandtoHouse That’s awesome. What’s the water quality like? Sounds like you have the perfect location.
2” pipe @70psi. You are going to make everyone jealous.
Electronics and artwork are commonly shipped in Eggcrate Soundproofing Foam. Maybe you could call and ask for discards to reduce decibels. "Pinky filter pads" can double as water filtration and acoustic absorbent material.
I also worry if the housing will stay cool enough. Is the water running through the pump cold enough to keep it from overheating when the housing is closed?
I am really enjoying this series. -KJ
You could build a sender block house for your Micro Hydro and it would cut down on your noise significantly
How do you get much water pressure when the water from the hill is not of a high pressure
This water drops 150 feet. Without the drop you don't get pressure.
Nobody said what pushes tbe water into the turbine, is it one of those pumps that work directly off of the stream pressure or have you got an electric pump that supplies the pressure
My apologies for not being clear. The creek runs 30gpm down a 1100 foot penstock.
That is a super cool unit. Not to be critical as an asshole but 15ft. from your creek will cause untold damage. I would think you might have figured that out by now since its 6 months later at this point. I have a pond with a 4 in. overflow pipe, no pressure at all, and it has put a 2 ft. hole in the creekbed it runs into. Water where water usually isn't can be devastating. Especially in forestland where things are much more fragile than they look. I hope it turned out ok. I wish I had one of those units. I would probably cut off a bucket and fit a 4 in. pipe to the bottom to drain and still drill a couple good sized holes toward the top in case of overflow, with a couple holes in the housing floor and screen on the bottom side to keep rodents out. Maybe a bit taller housing also.