Jerry, you have the skill and talent of one thousand tradesmen all combined. Plus you communicate what you build with ease and efficiency. Best of all is how you solve any crisis. Your brain could fill ten computers with ideas and solutions. Hang in there ! " Dont forget to water the bull, " as my ol tramps used to say.
Jerry, I do a lot of routing in aluminum and had the same problems with bits suddenly coming loose and dropping down too deep from where it was set. I discovered later, through some woodworkers that bottoming out the bit and then over torquing the collet to get it tight enough springs the collet, and from there on, it never really tightens up correctly. Their tip: Find a rubber o-ring that friction fits the inside bottom of your collet and that doesn't happen anymore. Hope that helps. Really enjoying all of your videos!
Good afternoon jerry what a beautiful guitar. When this is complete it will be a true masterpiece say hello Caleb for me God bless you Caleb.and of course your family
Always skillful and entertaining, never boring. The camera is great and focused. Almost like being in your workshop. Thanks Jerry for sharing your passion so simply 🎶🎶🎶
Very interesting and creative approach on the fretboard to get it in the laser cutter. The reinforcement of the fretboard is a great idea, just cut out the Dado for it and dry fit the splice very precisely prior to cutting it in half. The splice could then used to precision align the fretboard to the original length. Binding covers the sides as well. The fretboard looks great 👍.
It's amazing the attention to detail that you demonstrate. I'd be smashing things or breaking things and throwing in the towel. You walk a fine line times two! Difficult to believe what I'm watching! When it's within a few thousandths it's genuinely perfect in many respects! Wow!
Such fabulous artistry. have really enjoyed your journey. I hope to share an observation, maybe not a relevant suggestion as this is the last hurrah; regarding the inlay work - especially on the headstock. Please don't interpret as a criticism - it is BEAUTIFUL. I noticed you made a point of sanding them flush. It occurred to me it might be beautiful in another way if they were slightly proud of the surface, and lacquered in place? There may be really good reasons not to do that- I am not a woodworker. But i was watching and i thought it might have another kind of artistic beauty if they were glued solidly, and encased in several coats of finish. Perhaps another of your viewers may try some time. Thanks for all you do. l
Plugging in the router really helps, but unplugging when installing the drill bit does make sense! Trying to rout when unplugged may be silly, but it doesn’t damage anything, installing or adjusting the drill bit and accidentally switch the router on does.
I concur with your assessments regarding Alan Dust's brilliant creation. I'm sure that left hand threaded rods and nuts are out there, and reducing the length of the shaft would allow for more flexibility. Alan, you have a winner there! Thank you, Jerry, for showing it to us.
This is looking fantastic, Mr. Jerry! I don't know if it was edited perfectly, or it was just meant to be, but I LOVED that your background song ended with "I'll cry forever more" right when the router setup for the body binding around the neck joint was giving you FITS! Too funny, intentional or not!! The customer is getting one fine instrument.
I really enjoy watching your videos..I love the way you sneak up on stuff and your attention to detail…Your standards are second to none and your patience is evident…I can imagine your a very busy man but might have a project for ya in the future if your interested?? I feel it will be a challenge to say the least but feel confident if you do it you will be able to rescue it! Merry Christmas and once again great content…
Excellent series so far!! Really loving it. When you tapped the body, and knocked it on the bench, the sound was brilliant. It's gonna be a sweet sounding guitar for sure.
Not that it matters all that much, when you can freehand the router for a straight line, but could you have set up your straightedge on the other side of the dovetail cutout, and let the router soleplate bridge across it? That would keep the router and straightedge both on the same level, on the flat part of the neck joint. Or is the dovetail cutout too wide, at the top, for that to work? Either way, this will be your Magnum Opus. Not just a fine musical instrument, but a work of art, as well. A feast for the eyes, and ears, both. Thanks for letting us come along on this journey with you.
Around 17 minutes, he's putting "reference marks" on the dovetail of the neck in order to start removing material to adjust the angle of the neck. Those reference marks are absolutely critical, and this applies in many other areas of detail work. If you work with chisels, files, etc., you MUST know the progress you're making. Those marks are there to 'witness' your progress.
Lasers always cut slightly tapered, but a thing to check is make sure the head is at 90 degrees square to the bed, both side to side and front to back. Most often they aren't 😉
Maybe a lock nut will help with Alan's sanding tool? Then you could run it both backwards or forwards depending on which side of the guitar you are on. Or maybe just epoxy the nut on, if don't ever need to loosen it.
Did you consider putting the straight edge on the other side of the dovetail? Not enought room? You're a brave man free-handing a groove for binding. I'd have destroyed the sides from the shoulder to the dovetail. 😰 It's going to be a spectacular guitar.
GREAT video!! Was curious about a couple things. Is there any more info on Alan Dust's tool? Would love to build one and also curious about which Laser cutter you have? THANKS for the video.
If you take out all the screws except the center on one side your wedge glue up jig it will allow it to float and self adjust to the minute angle changes so you wouldn't have to use wedges. An improvement would be to use a 1/2 inch dowel instead of a screw for the pivot. This would work like the old prentiss vises with the floating rear jaw.
The issue he was having (and has had before) is slight imperfections, in the edges of the fretboard. The floating jaw would still have a straight edge and not address this issue.
@@zapa1pnt All the ones I've seen seemed to be imperfections in the angle. If there's imperfections in the straightness of the edge then that is a separate issue which is easily solved by light sanding on a surface plate or table saw platen. If this then affected the angle, the moving jaw would still be the best solution. A second best solution would be to insert a strip of firm semi-rigid foam behind a flexible strip of polyethylene to provide total contact the whole way without having to fiddle with wedges
I don't know what kind of wood you put on the sides of that guitar but that is some beautiful wood I think you do a fantastic job with a router free handing it I don't know anybody that can do that
Hey, Jerry, I suppose you have put a shim between the two parts of the fretboard with the same thickness of the saw you use to cut it. By the way, another great beautiful guitar! And we will be waiting for more!
Jerry you made a very small mistake in your height off the soundboard. You took your measurement at the end of the dovetail. That's what an inch or more behind the 12th fret. You need to measure an inch or so behind the bridge slot. It will make a little difference.
I'm sorry I have to disagree with you it doesn't make any difference all your measuring is the angle the hike at the bridge location the angle height would be the same no matter how you check it
The reason it doesn't make any difference is that the straight edge runs the length of the neck it just leaves the neck at the end of the dove tail it doesn't matter where it leaves whether you're talkin 12 Fred 10th Fred or the end of the dove tail the angle stays consistent
Just as you're cutting the fretboard I'm thinking that you've moved the frets above that position slightly closer to the nut by the thickness of the cut and therefore would there be any intonation issues over the entire fretboard? Just me musing on that.
Is there a way to get that angle correct (or pretty much correct), before fitting everything? I’m thinking more on the initial planning and cutting side of things? Source would save some time
@@Rednevals yes. But maybe the binding acted as a bridge and he used that to hold it together. I Am curious which is why I asked, but it may be the saw was only a few thousands thick and it simply didn’t make a difference
Congrats to Paul Wood on getting a wonderful guitar ..
Jerry, you've made a lot of arm chair luthiers very happy today! Thanks for your videos
Jerry, you have the skill and talent of one thousand tradesmen all combined. Plus you communicate what you build with ease and efficiency.
Best of all is how you solve any crisis. Your brain could fill ten computers with ideas and solutions. Hang in there !
" Dont forget to water the bull, " as my ol tramps used to say.
The inlays boggle my old mind.
Great job.
Beautiful work
Jerry, I do a lot of routing in aluminum and had the same problems with bits suddenly coming loose and dropping down too deep from where it was set. I discovered later, through some woodworkers that bottoming out the bit and then over torquing the collet to get it tight enough springs the collet, and from there on, it never really tightens up correctly. Their tip: Find a rubber o-ring that friction fits the inside bottom of your collet and that doesn't happen anymore. Hope that helps. Really enjoying all of your videos!
Beautiful she is indeed
Good afternoon jerry what a beautiful guitar. When this is complete it will be a true masterpiece say hello Caleb for me God bless you Caleb.and of course your family
Always skillful and entertaining, never boring.
The camera is great and focused. Almost like being in your workshop. Thanks Jerry for sharing your passion so simply 🎶🎶🎶
Wonderful!!!
Very interesting and creative approach on the fretboard to get it in the laser cutter. The reinforcement of the fretboard is a great idea, just cut out the Dado for it and dry fit the splice very precisely prior to cutting it in half. The splice could then used to precision align the fretboard to the original length. Binding covers the sides as well. The fretboard looks great 👍.
I feel real sad....watching the last of your builds....😔
It's amazing the attention to detail that you demonstrate. I'd be smashing things or breaking things and throwing in the towel. You walk a fine line times two! Difficult to believe what I'm watching! When it's within a few thousandths it's genuinely perfect in many respects! Wow!
Such fabulous artistry. have really enjoyed your journey. I hope to share an observation, maybe not a relevant suggestion as this is the last hurrah; regarding the inlay work - especially on the headstock. Please don't interpret as a criticism - it is BEAUTIFUL. I noticed you made a point of sanding them flush. It occurred to me it might be beautiful in another way if they were slightly proud of the surface, and lacquered in place? There may be really good reasons not to do that- I am not a woodworker. But i was watching and i thought it might have another kind of artistic beauty if they were glued solidly, and encased in several coats of finish. Perhaps another of your viewers may try some time. Thanks for all you do. l
That is going to be some guitar Jerry 👍👌🥰
Plugging in the router really helps, but unplugging when installing the drill bit does make sense! Trying to rout when unplugged may be silly, but it doesn’t damage anything, installing or adjusting the drill bit and accidentally switch the router on does.
Jerry-san, I'm really impressed with your solution for off-center issue as well as your skill to handle the router at free-hand.
Greetings from an avid fan from Hong Kong!
I concur with your assessments regarding Alan Dust's brilliant creation. I'm sure that left hand threaded rods and nuts are out there, and reducing the length of the shaft would allow for more flexibility. Alan, you have a winner there! Thank you, Jerry, for showing it to us.
McMaster Carr has everything. 😃
@@TKevinBlanc - True! Forgot about them.
Y'all know you can buy this at a tool store? He didn't invent the drill sander. 😂
@@chesleyoverstreet498: Do you have a link?
Thread Loctite is good, it comes in different strengths
Your headstock Rosa inlay is terrific.
This is looking fantastic, Mr. Jerry! I don't know if it was edited perfectly, or it was just meant to be, but I LOVED that your background song ended with "I'll cry forever more" right when the router setup for the body binding around the neck joint was giving you FITS! Too funny, intentional or not!! The customer is getting one fine instrument.
I really admire your freehand routing. If one has the skill to do it, it makes life so much more simple. I don't :-)
that is some pretty work and beautiful pieces of wood. Just gorgeous!
The masking tape and superglue trick makes your no slip removable strait edge router clamp Jerry .
I really enjoy watching your videos..I love the way you sneak up on stuff and your attention to detail…Your standards are second to none and your patience is evident…I can imagine your a very busy man but might have a project for ya in the future if your interested?? I feel it will be a challenge to say the least but feel confident if you do it you will be able to rescue it! Merry Christmas and once again great content…
What a great timesaver the laser cutter must be. I flinched when I saw the name on the fretboard.😵💫 The Last Hurrah is beautiful!
“Cal-leapers” Mine do the exact same thing and the reason I had to buy another one. 😀
You can’t stop making guitars, Jerry.
Unfortunately, he can't Keep making guitars. 😪
Excellent series so far!! Really loving it. When you tapped the body, and knocked it on the bench, the sound was brilliant. It's gonna be a sweet sounding guitar for sure.
Not that it matters all that much, when you can freehand the router for a straight line, but could you have set up your straightedge on the other side of the dovetail cutout, and let the router soleplate bridge across it? That would keep the router and straightedge both on the same level, on the flat part of the neck joint. Or is the dovetail cutout too wide, at the top, for that to work?
Either way, this will be your Magnum Opus. Not just a fine musical instrument, but a work of art, as well. A feast for the eyes, and ears, both. Thanks for letting us come along on this journey with you.
Man how I got hooked to " Sweet Melinda " and to see the great Merl Haggard in the group. John R's big pal :-) wonderful Jerry !!
Around 17 minutes, he's putting "reference marks" on the dovetail of the neck in order to start removing material to adjust the angle of the neck. Those reference marks are absolutely critical, and this applies in many other areas of detail work. If you work with chisels, files, etc., you MUST know the progress you're making. Those marks are there to 'witness' your progress.
Jerry, I don't normally get get envious, but boy I wish I had your skills. Eric King, England
Work at it, if you have the time.
It will only take you about 40 years.😂🤣
@@zapa1pnt I'll be very lucky if I have 10 left, and that's pushing it !
Lasers always cut slightly tapered, but a thing to check is make sure the head is at 90 degrees square to the bed, both side to side and front to back. Most often they aren't 😉
Nice work. It's as if that guitar neck and body were made for each other...oh yeah, they were. ;-)
Really great video Jerry lots of close up detail what a beautiful guitar
Masking tape and superglue trick for clamping things down in that situation with the purfling
Maybe a lock nut will help with Alan's sanding tool? Then you could run it both backwards or forwards depending on which side of the guitar you are on. Or maybe just epoxy the nut on, if don't ever need to loosen it.
Obviously, I don't know for sure, but that nut may be
what tightens the sanding drum, on the rubber core.
Did you consider putting the straight edge on the other side of the dovetail? Not enought room? You're a brave man free-handing a groove for binding. I'd have destroyed the sides from the shoulder to the dovetail. 😰 It's going to be a spectacular guitar.
Great content, thanks.
GREAT video!! Was curious about a couple things. Is there any more info on Alan Dust's tool? Would love to build one and also curious about which Laser cutter you have? THANKS for the video.
If you take out all the screws except the center on one side your wedge glue up jig it will allow it to float and self adjust to the minute angle changes so you wouldn't have to use wedges. An improvement would be to use a 1/2 inch dowel instead of a screw for the pivot. This would work like the old prentiss vises with the floating rear jaw.
The issue he was having (and has had before) is slight imperfections, in the edges of the fretboard.
The floating jaw would still have a straight edge and not address this issue.
@@zapa1pnt All the ones I've seen seemed to be imperfections in the angle. If there's imperfections in the straightness of the edge then that is a separate issue which is easily solved by light sanding on a surface plate or table saw platen. If this then affected the angle, the moving jaw would still be the best solution. A second best solution would be to insert a strip of firm semi-rigid foam behind a flexible strip of polyethylene to provide total contact the whole way without having to fiddle with wedges
I don't know what kind of wood you put on the sides of that guitar but that is some beautiful wood I think you do a fantastic job with a router free handing it I don't know anybody that can do that
Amazing work as always. But I would have to disagree about not ever needing a neck reset.
Hey, Jerry, I suppose you have put a shim between the two parts of the fretboard with the same thickness of the saw you use to cut it. By the way, another great beautiful guitar! And we will be waiting for more!
the kerf was only .006" the fretwire tang is wider so no problem
Jerry you made a very small mistake in your height off the soundboard. You took your measurement at the end of the dovetail. That's what an inch or more behind the 12th fret. You need to measure an inch or so behind the bridge slot. It will make a little difference.
I'm sorry I have to disagree with you it doesn't make any difference all your measuring is the angle the hike at the bridge location the angle height would be the same no matter how you check it
The reason it doesn't make any difference is that the straight edge runs the length of the neck it just leaves the neck at the end of the dove tail it doesn't matter where it leaves whether you're talkin 12 Fred 10th Fred or the end of the dove tail the angle stays consistent
Plugin in a power cord first is a good practice when you're using power tools.
Thumbs up to crush a troll.
3/16 in decimals is point 1875
You measured the sides of the stick rather than the top to bottom of the stick, that is unless your stick is square.
nope
I thought he done that too at 11.44
Just as you're cutting the fretboard I'm thinking that you've moved the frets above that position slightly closer to the nut by the thickness of the cut and therefore would there be any intonation issues over the entire fretboard? Just me musing on that.
The blade curve is only 6,000 of an edge and the fret wire itself won't let it get any closer
IT seems that marking the neck with carbon paper BEFORE you shaved the marks you made on the block would CHANGE the cut on the neck. does it?
Is there a way to get that angle correct (or pretty much correct), before fitting everything? I’m thinking more on the initial planning and cutting side of things?
Source would save some time
Jerry use nylok nuts and they won't back off when sanding with your alan sander
It seems like you should include the thickness of the fret board when you're predicting what the height will be when the neck is flush. Just saying...
And frets too
Jerry, Jim Thrall checking in. Once again, what is the name of your site where you're selling various products for luthiers.
Say, when you fitted the spline in the fingerboard, in what direction did the grain go?
The length of the front board which is a across the crack
I think Jerry has a speech impediment. For some reason he has difficulty with the phrase, "that's good enough!" ;-)
I have a 1956 SJ 200 and a 40s model j 45 country western with the trapezoidal pearl inlays that need work how do I contact yoj?
Hi Jerry! Wouldn’t cutting the fingerboard shorten it slightly and impact the intonation?
I was wondering the same thing. How did he account for the saw kerf when gluing the two halves of the fingerboard back together?
@@Rednevals maybe he put a fret in the slot to make sure the spacing remained the same
@@edd2771 But he still needed to fill the gap below the fret... Hmmm.
@@Rednevals yes. But maybe the binding acted as a bridge and he used that to hold it together. I Am curious which is why I asked, but it may be the saw was only a few thousands thick and it simply didn’t make a difference
It's a good question but the kerf is only about six thousand seven inch so it doesn't really impact anyting
If Allen Dust makes this tool tell him contact me.... I want one.
Why don't you use the tail of the caliper to measure the depth?
I use both ends depending on what I'm doing in a small area I would use the tail
198-38=160, not 60. I’ll keep watching and hoping it’s not a big error.
hip x8
In mm land is muchhhh easier the "bridge angle math". Just saying....
A flexible arm would help greatly with that
shake shake your body right
"Don't move your head, don't move your hands, don't move your lips, just shake your hips." MJ