I feel like I've also bored my viewers to tears repeating that "the truss rod is NOT the place you go to adjust your playing action..." and pointing out that it's for counteracting the pull of the strings and controlling the curvature of the neck only. Sure, a lot of relief will increase the height of playing action in the middle of the neck but it's a secondary effect. Another one that surprises my viewers is when I tell them that their tuners play virtually NO part in whether or not their guitars stay in tune...
I get so many guitars and customers wanting the neck reset and 99% of the time is not necessary and they are shocked I can fix it without resetting the neck.
That is true, have seen you in action. There are some high end guitars that need a neck reset, and they want you to shave the bridge and saddle to nothing. Just crazy
I can just hear Jerry gritting his teeth and mumbling, "Why does everybody think truss rod and a neck reset are the keys to good action? And I love the way you protected all that abalone.
Jerry, this is exactly what I needed to learn! I've been poking around in the dark for several decades trying to adjust my nuts and bridge saddles. I'm very grateful to you for sharing your knowledge with us on setting up our own acoustic instruments. I've been enjoying and learning so much from your videos, and I thank you very much for taking the time to make these incredibly informative and interesting videos, I wish you all the best as you approach your second retirement. FWIW : I agree with you about string height, the strings need enough distance to fully vibrate, that "width" of the vibration is in 360°. The best tone is achieved by setting the strings a bit on the high side (just a bit), to allow the strings to fully vibrate. It's something that you just have to accept, as a player.
I agree with you with action. How low can it get...it's gonna drag on the frets. And making it clear about what the trussrod does, and won't do. Thank you Jerry for bringing it up! 👌🎶🎶🎶
Hey Jerry Can you show and talk about all the different Nut Files you have. And why/if a person would need different sets for Mandolin vs Guitar...On an upcoming "Shop Talk" ? Thanks
Many guitar players thinks that accoustic guitars are like electric guitars. You can take the strings on an electric guit even lower, that might be why many of them wants their accoustics guit setup the same as their electric guit. But that is just a thought
It's hard to tell on camera, but that maple guitar sounds really good with a lot of projection. I know you're not a big fan of maple guitars, but I think that's a winner. In my experience, people that want acoustic guitars that low are primarily electric guitar players. You kind of have to split the difference like you did here. Great job as always Jerry.
Just resubscribed not sure what happened, your the 2nd now..and yes how low can ya go..ya aint gonna limbo under that one..hope you and family are keeping safe and well.. Love n Respect from New Zealand ✌
Jerry , What I do when I adjust a saddle , I place a capo at the 7th fret to hold the string in order before I pull the pins , that way , they stay neat and won't come unwound from the tuners . Just sayin'
Sometimes I wonder if you need it to be flat across the top taking into consideration the diameter of the string so when you're playing slide it's perfectly at the right height the top of the string cuz that's what's hitting the glass slide when you play slide just wondering
I believe the reason that the G string didn't need its nut groove filed was probably because of the fact that THAT nut groove gets worn down a lot faster. Maybe? Possibly?? I'm just guessing here. I'm certainly not a luthier! But I HAVE noticed over my 50+ years of playing experience (I started at age 15 and I'm 67 years old now) that the G string is 'the guy' that tends to start buzzing because of a too-low nut groove the most often, by far! I don't know how many times I've picked up a guitar somewhere and there was a buzzing G string like that. And how often have so many of us seen part of a matchbook cover (or something similar) folded and wadded up, under the G string in its slot/groove on the nut because that was somebody's fix for that, thus creating that muffled, "thuddy" sound to try and stop that buzzing, fretted-out sound coming from the 1st fret on the G string? The G string always tends to start "grooving-out" its nut groove lower and lower over time. The other wound strings also, but primarily it's the G string. Also, (please forgive my too-long comment) when I'm loosening the strings to re-string my acoustic, I've noticed white powder on the first fret wood right in front of the G string, and a little in front of the D string. I've started lifting the string out of the nut grooves (for the wound strings) so the strings themselves do not "file" those nut grooves out while loosening them. I've started cutting them after a little loosening - as you demonstrated and recommended in multiple videos of yours. I learn many useful things from you even though I'm not a luthier and probably never WILL be. I turned 67 in 2022 so it's too late for that, given my many, severe health issues. (I think we are about the same age!) But i DO do SOME things, like set the intonation and saddle heights - only on my electrics. You've done another GREAT JOB on this BEAUTIFUL hand-crafted acoustic guitar!! Thank you!!!
The proper setup is diatermed by how the player plays. SOFT**ROCK** BANGFER diatermes how low you can setup the action and how much relief at the 7 or 9 fret . DR KEL
It seems like, on the size of the file to use on the nut slots - I would call the customer and ask what string gauges they (he or she) use on that guitar and use the next size up file. I don't think I'd measure the strings currently on it. They may not even be their preferred size gauge; maybe they used a lighter gauge because of the problem of the action. I might try a medium gauge just to see if it sounds that much better better and still plays well. Also, on guitars where they are complaining of the action being too high, i would DEFINITELY play chords and scales HIGH UP on the neck. I know you are not a dedicated, proficient guitarist, Jerry, but I would get one to play it BEFORE I did anything to lower the action, and especially at the end when you are demoing the project guitar. I'm a lead guitarist and I spend a lot of time high up on the neck. I DO use the cutaway on acoustics, but not too much. There isn't much good tone up there. I'd even say that those cutaways take too much away from the sound. I'd only use an acoustic with a cutaway if my part on the song had need to go up there. Bluegrass music probably never has need to play lead acoustic guitar up in the cutaway. Those lead parts are generally in the open position. I'd bet most guitarists would agree that cutaways are detrimental to the sound, including Jerry! If the guitar is being played electrically through almost every type of pickup, to me - it ALWAYS ruins the sound. I love that natural sound without amplification, or at least have a condenser microphone or something IN FRONT of the guitar, like in a studio setting. I know that's destined to be a feedback nightmare if trying to do that while performing live, but it HAS been done. - The Eagles "Hell Freezes Over" comeback performance comes to mind. It was one of the best acoustical performances I've ever seen - up until that time. High fidelity live performances are much better since about that time. But yes, Jerry, please start demoing higher up on the neck, if you would, please. As a lead guitarist, that's the only thing that leaves me... unsatisfied with your (guitar) videos. Other than that, we give you a "triple thumbs up" on this - and ALL your projects and videos!!!
I do not play the guitar nor could I carry a tune in a wheel barrow. I was just wondering why the bridge appears to be slanted. That is it looks like the lower part is moved toward the left. LOVE YOUR VIDEOS.
Would you. at some point in the future, explain why you double the amount you want to remove from the saddle to get the drop that you want? I just can't visualize this for some reason.
I set mine as low as they will go without buzzing and tone/sustain loss ...the lower the better with as little relief as possible. My acoustics play smoother than many electrics .
Before watching your videos for the past couple of years, I admit I knew nothing about adjusting action. I never grow tired of your explanations of what you’re doing and why. No one explains and demonstrates better. We have the best seats available opposite your side of the work table. Thanks for making this video.
What shape do you mean? Body or headstock? The headstock (I would think) is a style. The cutaway in the body lets you press notes at the very high frets easier. You can get into that spot with your hand easier. (At the end of the video, 34:02, Jerry has his hand where you can sort of see it. With his fingers in this position he could easily press a very high note thanks to the cutaway)
@@jacobsvideochannel5998 The soundbox :-) ah ok it's about practical reasons. I personally prefer the symetric soundbox because it's a nicer shape is my opinion ;-)
I ended up using fingernail file to grind the bottom down and work pretty good I do need to get some files though for the high e a custom set of files that for this so the strings can sit in nice I mean should it be a v should it be a half moon that's the question
The bottom of the string slot should be round, like the string. A "v" slot will cause binding of the round string, especially the wound ones. I can't imagine how you got anywhere with a fingernail file. The, metal, fingernail files I've seen all had no grit edges.
A light player can play a very low action, with no buzz. If you are getting buzz, due to low action, it just means your guitar is not set up for your playing style.
@@zapa1pnt about 1.5 mill is good for me any lower and i get all kinda issues, plus i am talking electric zap ol' mate....but yeah i totally agree, i can play lightly too just not for long..lol
high action, in my opinion, makes for better tone. It's about striking the balance between sound and playability. J Mascis plays with absurdly high action - i swear it's like a 1/4 inch or more
6:35 ok, but if the action is high, then you're playing sharp. So there has to be some compromise. Acoustics already have trouble with intonation as it is, and high action will only add to that misery.
That's funny your fingernails are just like mine I've been playing guitar my whole life musician would work but I can't stand anything any kind of a hangnail or anything and it's funny I wondered if it's because of pickers love to pick that's why we picked up the guitar no pun intended but yeah my nails are nothing I kind of use those same files you're using for the for the nut to file my nails I found one but is those files I want to have a flat bottom square or is it around that's the question
I prefer a higher action than most would call “normal”. It makes for better sustain, dynamics, headroom and string to string definition. If it’s too difficult to play, use a lighter string.
Wow. Sounds great. Lower action means less volume correct? I would tough it out and enjoy as is. I think all my acoustics have high action. When I want low I grab an electric. Thanks for all your videos.
Nice job. It is a nice looking guitar. Sounds nice too. I have one complaint, my little blue dot didn't show up, when you posted this. I may have been watching the Shop Talk. Who knows? Great job Mr Jerry.👌
Totally agree. My preferred acoustic action is 1.7mm (.067”) under the high E at the 12th fret and 2.4mm (.094”) under the low E with a neck relief of about .008”. Any lower and there are problems.
You can assemble and glue pre-cut/bent parts together without a ton of experience. It takes a lot more experience, expertise, and different tools to take and instrument apart and fix it correctly without doing a lot of damage.
If Liberace was a guitar player, I imagine his guitar would have looked something like that. Thanks so much for the videos. I'm learning a lot from your awesome content.
I'm putting my not on my Stratocaster 1979 right now I had to grind it down the other one broke I didn't want to do the super glue trick but it's almost fit but I was wondering how high it should be thank you for the information I got an almost set thank you love your guitar work you're an expert I've learned a lot I'm pretty good would work on myself but what kind of glue should I use I don't know if you read this book should I use a high glue something you mix up with water or type on too that's waterproof that's what I usually use I'm doing still work this type on too just wondering thanks again
I've seen people put a spot of Super Glue/.CA on the middle of the nut (a small spot) that presses against the fret board. I wouldn't recommend Hide Glue. However Jerry may have a better idea.
So, by filing the ends of the pegs allows the ball to squeeze the pegs against the bridge plate because if they are under the pin it could push it out? OK, I get it.
The only thing I see (from my house) that Jerry didn't talk about is that there appears to be a lot of fall away on the fret board. Since it's a cutaway guitar I'm wondering if that might make the action higher than optimum on the frets by the cutaway?
That may be the case but when doing a set up, you don't take fretboard fall away into consideration, because there is nothing you can do about it (nothing simple anyway). If, for some reason, you do need to pull the neck, you can then address excessive fall away.
@@zapa1pnt As Jerry noted the guitar in question didn't seem to have that bad of a setup when it arrived in Jerry's shop, but excessive fall away may be what the customer is actually complaining about when he says the action is too high, because on that section on the fret board the action is higher than optimum or wanted. A neck reset to try and resolve that issue would still be the wrong fix.
IMO the action is too low. We are at the mercy of the customer. You are lucky if the action is less than 100 on a brand new acoustic guitar. Electric is a different story. Some will say that the guitar is unplayable, I guess they want it to play itself.
Does anybody know the name and make of that graduated, one-piece feeler gauge tool he uses to measure the fret height at the 12th fret? It looks super handy. Thanks!
Please please , leave the great looking guitar. Sounds beautiful looks beautiful ,why would you touch it . Get used to it. The problems are you getting used to it . Fine guitar and it yours. Hello from Ireland
The nut adjustment will help with playability more than the action at the 12th fret, in my experience. Many guitar players have phases. At times they play more, at others less. When you play less, those are also the times when you have less strength in your fingers and when you tend to play easier songs, 'cause you're out of practice. Maybe just strumming. Meaning, you almost exclusively press notes at the lower frets and get frustrated, when even that is now too hard for you. (But also in general high nut slots are strenuous)
I feel like I've also bored my viewers to tears repeating that "the truss rod is NOT the place you go to adjust your playing action..." and pointing out that it's for counteracting the pull of the strings and controlling the curvature of the neck only. Sure, a lot of relief will increase the height of playing action in the middle of the neck but it's a secondary effect. Another one that surprises my viewers is when I tell them that their tuners play virtually NO part in whether or not their guitars stay in tune...
And, no doubt, many of those, who think they have tuner problems, are tuning Down to the note instead of Up.
I get so many guitars and customers wanting the neck reset and 99% of the time is not necessary and they are shocked I can fix it without resetting the neck.
That is true, have seen you in action. There are some high end guitars that need a neck reset, and they want you to shave the bridge and saddle to nothing. Just crazy
You're right Randy. (Hope you're doing good.)
I can just hear Jerry gritting his teeth and mumbling, "Why does everybody think truss rod and a neck reset are the keys to good action?
And I love the way you protected all that abalone.
In such circumstances as this, patience - and diligence - is a real virtue !
I honestly didn't know that. Thank you for that information. Your knowledge is more valuable to me more than you know, Jerry.
I filed my pins when I changed the strings on my guitar. Worked great. Thanks.
Masterly corrected with the minimum effort, Love that kind of work
Matt Bartolone
That’s a beautiful instrument!
Jerry, this is exactly what I needed to learn! I've been poking around in the dark for several decades trying to adjust my nuts and bridge saddles. I'm very grateful to you for sharing your knowledge with us on setting up our own acoustic instruments. I've been enjoying and learning so much from your videos, and I thank you very much for taking the time to make these incredibly informative and interesting videos, I wish you all the best as you approach your second retirement.
FWIW : I agree with you about string height, the strings need enough distance to fully vibrate, that "width" of the vibration is in 360°. The best tone is achieved by setting the strings a bit on the high side (just a bit), to allow the strings to fully vibrate. It's something that you just have to accept, as a player.
Hi, Jerry! Your videos have entertained me in the past few years. Thanks for your instrumental insight! Yes, we all like that action.
Hard to believe someone could build an instrument that nice and not be able to dial in the saddle and nut. Good job Jerry
I agree with you with action. How low can it get...it's gonna drag on the frets. And making it clear about what the trussrod does, and won't do. Thank you Jerry for bringing it up! 👌🎶🎶🎶
Hey Jerry Can you show and talk about all the different Nut Files you have. And why/if a person would need different sets for Mandolin vs Guitar...On an upcoming "Shop Talk" ? Thanks
Many guitar players thinks that accoustic guitars are like electric guitars. You can take the strings on an electric guit even lower, that might be why many of them wants their accoustics guit setup the same as their electric guit. But that is just a thought
Thumbs up to crush a troll, even before watching.
Adjusting the nut slots can be a bit tedious to get it just right. Nice setup video.
You just have to know when to stop.
I've missed that mark many times.
On a decent guitar, that tedium can be very rewarding to a player.
Beautiful job on such a beauty
I enjoyed this episode and appreciate your covering the same ground setting up a saddle and nut again. Very educational, Jerry. Thanks again.
Great work as always Jerry, it sounds nice and it sure is a pretty guitar!
It's hard to tell on camera, but that maple guitar sounds really good with a lot of projection. I know you're not a big fan of maple guitars, but I think that's a winner. In my experience, people that want acoustic guitars that low are primarily electric guitar players. You kind of have to split the difference like you did here. Great job as always Jerry.
Great video. I’m ready to get my guitar set up now !
Just resubscribed not sure what happened, your the 2nd now..and yes how low can ya go..ya aint gonna limbo under that one..hope you and family are keeping safe and well..
Love n Respect from New Zealand ✌
Jerry , What I do when I adjust a saddle , I place a capo at the 7th fret to hold the string in order before I pull the pins , that way , they stay neat and won't come unwound from the tuners . Just sayin'
Good stuff. I learned a lot. Thanks!
A great video to end the week. Thanks, Jerry!
Sometimes I wonder if you need it to be flat across the top taking into consideration the diameter of the string so when you're playing slide it's perfectly at the right height the top of the string cuz that's what's hitting the glass slide when you play slide just wondering
great setup
Great job as always Jerry. Peace and Love from Bonny Scotland.
Great job Jerry , a beautiful guitar . 👍🇬🇧
such good guitar
I believe the reason that the G string didn't need its nut groove filed was probably because of the fact that THAT nut groove gets worn down a lot faster. Maybe? Possibly?? I'm just guessing here. I'm certainly not a luthier! But I HAVE noticed over my 50+ years of playing experience (I started at age 15 and I'm 67 years old now) that the G string is 'the guy' that tends to start buzzing because of a too-low nut groove the most often, by far! I don't know how many times I've picked up a guitar somewhere and there was a buzzing G string like that. And how often have so many of us seen part of a matchbook cover (or something similar) folded and wadded up, under the G string in its slot/groove on the nut because that was somebody's fix for that, thus creating that muffled, "thuddy" sound to try and stop that buzzing, fretted-out sound coming from the 1st fret on the G string? The G string always tends to start "grooving-out" its nut groove lower and lower over time. The other wound strings also, but primarily it's the G string.
Also, (please forgive my too-long comment) when I'm loosening the strings to re-string my acoustic, I've noticed white powder on the first fret wood right in front of the G string, and a little in front of the D string. I've started lifting the string out of the nut grooves (for the wound strings) so the strings themselves do not "file" those nut grooves out while loosening them. I've started cutting them after a little loosening - as you demonstrated and recommended in multiple videos of yours. I learn many useful things from you even though I'm not a luthier and probably never WILL be. I turned 67 in 2022 so it's too late for that, given my many, severe health issues. (I think we are about the same age!) But i DO do SOME things, like set the intonation and saddle heights - only on my electrics.
You've done another GREAT JOB on this BEAUTIFUL hand-crafted acoustic guitar!! Thank you!!!
The proper setup is diatermed by how the player plays. SOFT**ROCK** BANGFER diatermes how low you can setup the action and how much relief at the 7 or 9 fret . DR KEL
It seems like, on the size of the file to use on the nut slots - I would call the customer and ask what string gauges they (he or she) use on that guitar and use the next size up file. I don't think I'd measure the strings currently on it. They may not even be their preferred size gauge; maybe they used a lighter gauge because of the problem of the action. I might try a medium gauge just to see if it sounds that much better better and still plays well.
Also, on guitars where they are complaining of the action being too high, i would DEFINITELY play chords and scales HIGH UP on the neck. I know you are not a dedicated, proficient guitarist, Jerry, but I would get one to play it BEFORE I did anything to lower the action, and especially at the end when you are demoing the project guitar. I'm a lead guitarist and I spend a lot of time high up on the neck. I DO use the cutaway on acoustics, but not too much. There isn't much good tone up there. I'd even say that those cutaways take too much away from the sound. I'd only use an acoustic with a cutaway if my part on the song had need to go up there. Bluegrass music probably never has need to play lead acoustic guitar up in the cutaway. Those lead parts are generally in the open position. I'd bet most guitarists would agree that cutaways are detrimental to the sound, including Jerry! If the guitar is being played electrically through almost every type of pickup, to me - it ALWAYS ruins the sound. I love that natural sound without amplification, or at least have a condenser microphone or something IN FRONT of the guitar, like in a studio setting. I know that's destined to be a feedback nightmare if trying to do that while performing live, but it HAS been done. - The Eagles "Hell Freezes Over" comeback performance comes to mind. It was one of the best acoustical performances I've ever seen - up until that time. High fidelity live performances are much better since about that time.
But yes, Jerry, please start demoing higher up on the neck, if you would, please. As a lead guitarist, that's the only thing that leaves me... unsatisfied with your (guitar) videos. Other than that, we give you a "triple thumbs up" on this - and ALL your projects and videos!!!
So you're taking in repairs thru the mail again?
No. This was recorded last year.
@@zapa1pnt 10-4, thanks!
I do not play the guitar nor could I carry a tune in a wheel barrow. I was just wondering why the bridge appears to be slanted. That is it looks like the lower part is moved toward the left. LOVE YOUR VIDEOS.
Would you. at some point in the future, explain why you double the amount you want to remove from the saddle to get the drop that you want? I just can't visualize this for some reason.
A billion and One awtta cover it.
I set mine as low as they will go without buzzing and tone/sustain loss ...the lower the better with as little relief as possible. My acoustics play smoother than many electrics .
Man this dude should be discovered great sound beautiful guitar. All he needs is your expertise.
Heavier the string lower the action without buzz, but harder to bend strings, it’s that simple
That is the most beautiful guitar l have ever seen...woww
Before watching your videos for the past couple of years, I admit I knew nothing about adjusting action. I never grow tired of your explanations of what you’re doing and why. No one explains and demonstrates better. We have the best seats available opposite your side of the work table. Thanks for making this video.
Could you write sth on your feeler gauge? I cannot find anything similar.
Best regards
11:28 That's why we Europeans invented the metric system: "Two" is so much easier to say :-))
I would had have liked to see how the intonation and relief checked out. Beautiful ax.
When I tune my guitar and check it on the 12 fret it's between 1 and 2 cents out is that to far out or is that OK?
Jerry I kinda wonder why what is the purpose of this shape? It's a-symetric. Is it the builders freedom? Just asking, I am not an expert :-)
What shape do you mean? Body or headstock? The headstock (I would think) is a style. The cutaway in the body lets you press notes at the very high frets easier. You can get into that spot with your hand easier. (At the end of the video, 34:02, Jerry has his hand where you can sort of see it. With his fingers in this position he could easily press a very high note thanks to the cutaway)
@@jacobsvideochannel5998 The soundbox :-) ah ok it's about practical reasons. I personally prefer the symetric soundbox because it's a nicer shape is my opinion ;-)
I ended up using fingernail file to grind the bottom down and work pretty good I do need to get some files though for the high e a custom set of files that for this so the strings can sit in nice I mean should it be a v should it be a half moon that's the question
The bottom of the string slot should be round, like the string.
A "v" slot will cause binding of the round string, especially the wound ones.
I can't imagine how you got anywhere with a fingernail file.
The, metal, fingernail files I've seen all had no grit edges.
12:38
That's why they're called ca-leapers.
😅
Beautiful and great sounding guitar
too much fretboard noise from super low actions, you really notice it when you plug into an amp, i am heavy handed though....thanks for the vid Jerry
A light player can play a very low action, with no buzz.
If you are getting buzz, due to low action, it just means
your guitar is not set up for your playing style.
@@zapa1pnt about 1.5 mill is good for me any lower and i get all kinda issues, plus i am talking electric zap ol' mate....but yeah i totally agree, i can play lightly too just not for long..lol
I love your videos Jerry Rosa!!!
high action, in my opinion, makes for better tone. It's about striking the balance between sound and playability. J Mascis plays with absurdly high action - i swear it's like a 1/4 inch or more
Albert Collins learned to play on a homemade guitar strung with bailing wire.
Some people just like pain.
6:35 ok, but if the action is high, then you're playing sharp. So there has to be some compromise. Acoustics already have trouble with intonation as it is, and high action will only add to that misery.
That's funny your fingernails are just like mine I've been playing guitar my whole life musician would work but I can't stand anything any kind of a hangnail or anything and it's funny I wondered if it's because of pickers love to pick that's why we picked up the guitar no pun intended but yeah my nails are nothing I kind of use those same files you're using for the for the nut to file my nails I found one but is those files I want to have a flat bottom square or is it around that's the question
Eddie, please try to use punctuation.
No punctuation makes your comments very difficult to read.
His inlay work is gorgeous
I prefer a higher action than most would call “normal”. It makes for better sustain, dynamics, headroom and string to string definition.
If it’s too difficult to play, use a lighter string.
And how does that higher than normal action effect the intonation ?
You are my mentor, so I hesitate to mention this, but when "abalone" is pronounced correctly it rhymes with "baloney."
very aware of that. Are you aware that many words can be pronounced differently?
Perfection
Wow. Sounds great. Lower action means less volume correct? I would tough it out and enjoy as is. I think all my acoustics have high action. When I want low I grab an electric. Thanks for all your videos.
More please !
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nice job. It is a nice looking guitar. Sounds nice too. I have one complaint, my little blue dot didn't show up, when you posted this. I may have been watching the Shop Talk. Who knows? Great job Mr Jerry.👌
Totally agree. My preferred acoustic action is 1.7mm (.067”) under the high E at the 12th fret and 2.4mm (.094”) under the low E with a neck relief of about .008”. Any lower and there are problems.
I wish I saw this before I broke the truss rod on my Martin D16…
👍🤘
when a maker of the instrument won't touch it , I would suspect the owner is not that maker
You can assemble and glue pre-cut/bent parts together without a ton of experience. It takes a lot more experience, expertise, and different tools to take and instrument apart and fix it correctly without doing a lot of damage.
If Liberace was a guitar player, I imagine his guitar would have looked something like that. Thanks so much for the videos. I'm learning a lot from your awesome content.
That guitar would sound amazing with a set of 12-54 gauge strings on it. In my opinion
He could have bought several different precut Bridges and tried them to find out if the bridge was too high.
I'm putting my not on my Stratocaster 1979 right now I had to grind it down the other one broke I didn't want to do the super glue trick but it's almost fit but I was wondering how high it should be thank you for the information I got an almost set thank you love your guitar work you're an expert I've learned a lot I'm pretty good would work on myself but what kind of glue should I use I don't know if you read this book should I use a high glue something you mix up with water or type on too that's waterproof that's what I usually use I'm doing still work this type on too just wondering thanks again
I've seen people put a spot of Super Glue/.CA on the middle of the nut (a small spot) that presses against the fret board. I wouldn't recommend Hide Glue. However Jerry may have a better idea.
That’s a beautiful guitar. Nice nice job to the builder.
Thanks for the great video.
I'd like to ask about the feeler gauge you use to check string height.
What is it called and where do you get them?
Insize 4630-1E ebay
So, by filing the ends of the pegs allows the ball to squeeze the pegs against the bridge plate because if they are under the pin it could push it out? OK, I get it.
they can make a buzzing noise too Olivier it is a very helpful mod
@@nickbellinger1047 thanks
Hi, Oliver. Is your name pronounced as Bork or Borkay?
Just wondering. I like to be able to pronounce names correctly. Thanks.
The only thing I see (from my house) that Jerry didn't talk about is that there appears to be a lot of fall away on the fret board. Since it's a cutaway guitar I'm wondering if that might make the action higher than optimum on the frets by the cutaway?
That may be the case but when doing a set up, you don't take fretboard fall away into consideration, because there is nothing you can do about it (nothing simple anyway).
If, for some reason, you do need to pull the neck, you can then address excessive fall away.
@@zapa1pnt As Jerry noted the guitar in question didn't seem to have that bad of a setup when it arrived in Jerry's shop, but excessive fall away may be what the customer is actually complaining about when he says the action is too high, because on that section on the fret board the action is higher than optimum or wanted. A neck reset to try and resolve that issue would still be the wrong fix.
Nice job Jerry - thanks again
Hmmm "zero" fret height?..try pressing firmly and practicing more. Only air guitars play themselves.
Beautiful guitar, beautiful setup. 👍
Why do you only check the action on the two E strings?What about the other four strings? How do you know that the radius of the saddle is correct?
C ompensate the saddle.***DR KEL
I’m referring to action, not intonation.
How was the intunation?
If he built the guitar he should know how to fix the neck
IMO the action is too low. We are at the mercy of the customer. You are lucky if the action is less than 100 on a brand new acoustic guitar. Electric is a different story. Some will say that the guitar is unplayable, I guess they want it to play itself.
Does anybody know the name and make of that graduated, one-piece feeler gauge tool he uses to measure the fret height at the 12th fret? It looks super handy. Thanks!
It is a "Insize 4630-E1". Available from multiple sources online, for around $60 to $65 US.
Please please , leave the great looking guitar. Sounds beautiful looks beautiful ,why would you touch it . Get used to it. The problems are you getting used to it . Fine guitar and it yours. Hello from Ireland
"why would you touch it "
To make it easier, more pleasurable and less painful to play.
I recently watched your vid on fixing j150 headstock.You could learn alot from Twoodfrd
The nut adjustment will help with playability more than the action at the 12th fret, in my experience. Many guitar players have phases. At times they play more, at others less. When you play less, those are also the times when you have less strength in your fingers and when you tend to play easier songs, 'cause you're out of practice. Maybe just strumming. Meaning, you almost exclusively press notes at the lower frets and get frustrated, when even that is now too hard for you. (But also in general high nut slots are strenuous)