For those wondering, this is a very basic service. The full service should be done every 125hrs of trail time or once per year. These shocks are charged with up to 550PSI in the IFP chamber. When that charge starts to go, the lockout functions will fail and the shock will likely start exhibiting signs of cavitation. This sounds like a crunchy, sloshy noise much of the time. The biggest transformation you can make to the shock is the full service. It is much more involved and usually costs around $150-200.
Great Video, just few questions. How you remove the sleeves-just pull them outs or you unscrew them? Are those rubber seals symmetrical i.e. should I pay attention when put them back, is there UP and DOWN side or not? I have Trek fuel ex 8 for 2020 (without full-floater), how much I saw it has same rear shock like yours on 2019 model. Can I install volume spacer inside? size is 0,8 IN3-it is orange spacer. Thanks in advance.
10/10 score.... in my shed with your video running 1 minute at a time and step by step... made it simple and now I have another 3 bikes to go and I will do them with confidence.
IMPORTANT: At the end when he's putting air back in with the pump, make sure the shock is in full-open position. In fact, make sure it's in full-open when re-threading the air canister.
Thanks for a concise and clear tutorial! Just did my first shock rebuild based on your video and it was super easy. The hardest part was actually removing the shock, some bolts were stubborn :) That's what I like about your channel, very clear and down to earth way of explaining things. Hope you will continue going forward!
@@TrailBreaker I am excited to do mine now too. Thank you for such great detail. I hope I can say "I can't believe I waited so long" too as this took out a lot of the fear I had even just watching this!
Thanks for this, but taking it apart I found 3 more o-rings inside the air can. Remove the steel spring and pop out the inside bus. That part has 3 more rings that you do not want to forget.
Not super hard but I couldn't find the right size oring for the top. Finally got it after 3 tries. Mine is a 2015, so an older design .Also, make sure you put the travel indicator on before reassembling.
I have a GT Marathon Elite with a rear fox shock. Where is the best place to purchase a rebuild kit? Thanks for posting this video. You now have a new subscriber
Oh man, I’ve been using too much float fluid, I throw half the pillow pack on one side and the rest in the other, thinking the more the better!! But I opened it again cause it was making strange sound and the float fluid was white full of bubbles.
I followed all the steps and it looked good but when I installed I noticed that the canister sewing ring would move down with the sag ring. It doesn’t look like there’s an air leak and the shock functions well but just that part it’s weird.
Good morning. I watched your excellent maintenance video for a Fox shock absorber and I really enjoyed it. First of all, how many hours do you do this maintenance or maybe once a year, and then I would like you to tell me if you also do the total maintenance, including all the dismantling of it. The rear shock absorber, I never did any maintenance but the front fork yes, I do it regularly. I have a 2021 Ktm Scarp master with a Fox factory fit4. I would also like you to tell me if you usually revise the Fit4 cartridge. A big thank you waiting. Paulo Jeronimo
Hi! As i see you did not disassemble it full acc. fox manual. It require special tools. Can you help me to explain will it help me do to same job if my shock do not block?
Great video! What if your lock out on the shock is not working properly? I have an old fox float L And the lock out and damper setting isn’t working correctly.
It needs an ACTUAL service by a shop. What I did was merely a refresh. If it's really old you'd probably be better off upgrading to a new(er) shock. PinkBike has lots of used stuff for a good price. Just be sure to check your eye-to-eye length and shock stroke. enter your shock into ridefox.com to be sure.
Hi there wondered if I could have some help I'm building my own bike I've got rear shock all fully working but eyelets not in line with eachother ones got a turn on it I was wondering if you can rotate them to line them up the top eyelet needs lining up ??
I open it up every season just to check seals and o-rings. A full service would check out the damper too but I only address this when there’s an demoing issue😁
I keep messing with it. I added some volume reducers for more progression and avoid bottoming and am currently using 200 psi. It all depends on your weight and how aggressively you ride
Brandon - I had a similar issue. I released all air in the shock with my shock pump but I couldn't unscrew the air can. I used a pick on the core valve to see if any air was left in the air can (there was). Once that little bit was released from the air can, I was able to easily remove the air can.
Wound up using a cheap strap wrench and it worked. Because of the geometry, it's tough to get leverage with your hands, and I don't have a shock vice. Strap wrench (cheap fabric strap with an old inner tube) easily took it off. A bigger spacer made a huge difference.
There are 3 pieces all friction fit in place (pretty tight.) There's a center bushing that goes through the eye of the shock and 2 spacers either side ON that center bushing. I just worked on of the spacers by twisting to remove it. Then I tapped the center bushing out being very careful to not damage the end.
I followed your guide to service my fork - now I have to do the shocks as well, have the same exact bike as well!
That's awesome! You obviously have good taste 😀 Good luck👊
For those wondering, this is a very basic service. The full service should be done every 125hrs of trail time or once per year. These shocks are charged with up to 550PSI in the IFP chamber. When that charge starts to go, the lockout functions will fail and the shock will likely start exhibiting signs of cavitation. This sounds like a crunchy, sloshy noise much of the time. The biggest transformation you can make to the shock is the full service. It is much more involved and usually costs around $150-200.
This made a HUGE difference in how my bike handles. It’s so much more responsive and active in the small-bump area...like butter😁
Great Video, just few questions.
How you remove the sleeves-just pull them outs or you unscrew them?
Are those rubber seals symmetrical i.e. should I pay attention when put them back, is there UP and DOWN side or not?
I have Trek fuel ex 8 for 2020 (without full-floater), how much I saw it has same rear shock like yours on 2019 model. Can I install volume spacer inside?
size is 0,8 IN3-it is orange spacer.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the mention of cycling the shock every 25psi. It makes a HUGE difference!
10/10 score.... in my shed with your video running 1 minute at a time and step by step... made it simple and now I have another 3 bikes to go and I will do them with confidence.
Well firstly.....TOOL!!!!! ❤ Ok, now I'll watch the other 10 mins and 38 seconds of this video!
Sweet!
Thanks for this video. I just followed your video on the fork. Shock is next.
I have a Trek Fuel EX 7 and pressing out that mounting hardware is the hardest part of this job. Thanks for the great video!
IMPORTANT: At the end when he's putting air back in with the pump, make sure the shock is in full-open position. In fact, make sure it's in full-open when re-threading the air canister.
TOOL Shirt grabbed my attention!
Funny that you should say that. I used to think that their music was a very odd style ut man have they grown on me, I love their music.
Thanks for a concise and clear tutorial! Just did my first shock rebuild based on your video and it was super easy. The hardest part was actually removing the shock, some bolts were stubborn :)
That's what I like about your channel, very clear and down to earth way of explaining things. Hope you will continue going forward!
Thanks, Mikael! I really appreciate it. I plan to continue with the videos😊🤙
@@TrailBreaker I am excited to do mine now too. Thank you for such great detail. I hope I can say "I can't believe I waited so long" too as this took out a lot of the fear I had even just watching this!
Thanks a bunch! I'll have to use a plastic pic when taking out the O rings because I WILL scrape that aluminum
Thanks for this, but taking it apart I found 3 more o-rings inside the air can. Remove the steel spring and pop out the inside bus. That part has 3 more rings that you do not want to forget.
Love the tool shirt !
🤙
Great video, very comprehensive, thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Not super hard but I couldn't find the right size oring for the top. Finally got it after 3 tries. Mine is a 2015, so an older design .Also, make sure you put the travel indicator on before reassembling.
Great tip!
thanks just finished mine
forks next soon
Great video. My shock is good to go now. Thanks!
I have a GT Marathon Elite with a rear fox shock. Where is the best place to purchase a rebuild kit? Thanks for posting this video. You now have a new subscriber
Nicely done!
Thanks!
Oh man, I’ve been using too much float fluid, I throw half the pillow pack on one side and the rest in the other, thinking the more the better!! But I opened it again cause it was making strange sound and the float fluid was white full of bubbles.
Great job
Thanks!
I followed all the steps and it looked good but when I installed I noticed that the canister sewing ring would move down with the sag ring. It doesn’t look like there’s an air leak and the shock functions well but just that part it’s weird.
Good morning. I watched your excellent maintenance video for a Fox shock absorber and I really enjoyed it. First of all, how many hours do you do this maintenance or maybe once a year, and then I would like you to tell me if you also do the total maintenance, including all the dismantling of it. The rear shock absorber, I never did any maintenance but the front fork yes, I do it regularly. I have a 2021 Ktm Scarp master with a Fox factory fit4. I would also like you to tell me if you usually revise the Fit4 cartridge. A big thank you waiting. Paulo Jeronimo
Thank you so much for this. Can you provide another link to the correct seal overhaul kit - it was broken. thank you!
Updated. Here it is. Thanks for letting me know amzn.to/3oKaENJ
What would be the recommended psi for this fork?
Thanks
I am getting air leaking from the shaft for adjusting the tension on the shock. have you ever serviced that shaft for leaks? If so any advice?
A really Great Job...Just an important question....where I can find the Fox shox kit the link You suggest is no longer available....😥😥😥.Thank You
Hi! As i see you did not disassemble it full acc. fox manual. It require special tools. Can you help me to explain will it help me do to same job if my shock do not block?
Thanks for the video! Can you tell us the Fox part number of that rebuild kit?
Great video! What if your lock out on the shock is not working properly? I have an old fox float L And the lock out and damper setting isn’t working correctly.
It needs an ACTUAL service by a shop. What I did was merely a refresh. If it's really old you'd probably be better off upgrading to a new(er) shock. PinkBike has lots of used stuff for a good price. Just be sure to check your eye-to-eye length and shock stroke. enter your shock into ridefox.com to be sure.
Thanks
Great video
but how much psi at the end I have to fill?
Do you rebuild the Boost Valve reservoir? If so, do you have a video for this?
Sweet 🤘
👊 Have you done this?
@@TrailBreaker not on my stumpy yet
Hi! How did you remove the smallest ring on the negative shaft? Also does the negative cylinder needs servicing or dis assembly?
Do you know if it’s the same process for the reactive shocks with thru shaft?
Do you have a suggestion to repair a lockout that won’t adjust and shock is stop wide open?
That is a damper issue which this doesn’t cover. That’s probably a rebuild/ new shock buy
@@TrailBreaker yeah, it was a new shock...
Hi there wondered if I could have some help I'm building my own bike I've got rear shock all fully working but eyelets not in line with eachother ones got a turn on it I was wondering if you can rotate them to line them up the top eyelet needs lining up ??
Yes. Just spin it!
Good video! How often do you have to service rear shox?
I open it up every season just to check seals and o-rings. A full service would check out the damper too but I only address this when there’s an demoing issue😁
How much psi did you put back in when you inflated it? Thanks
I keep messing with it. I added some volume reducers for more progression and avoid bottoming and am currently using 200 psi. It all depends on your weight and how aggressively you ride
How did you remove the rubber bushing from bottom of the shock?
I used some soft jaw pliers to remove one of the outer spacers then carefully tapped the inner bushing out with a hammer.
How did you remove the lower eyelet and bushings?
Carefully pull the spacers from the bushing with a grippy, non-marring pliers then press the bushing out. It’s just friction
Going to try this. Are there any other service required on this shock?
Yes. I really only did a air can service. If the damper isn't working that's more involved.
What kind of air pump do you use? Ive been trying to find one that fits smaller valves like these.
I think it might be a Shop Fox. I’ll check
So this will fit any fox rear shock?
Yes.
i have a 2021 fuel ex, and cant seem to unscrew the air can no matter how hard i try. any reccomendations?
Have you tried a strap wrench?
Have one coming in the mail 🤞
Brandon - I had a similar issue. I released all air in the shock with my shock pump but I couldn't unscrew the air can. I used a pick on the core valve to see if any air was left in the air can (there was). Once that little bit was released from the air can, I was able to easily remove the air can.
Wound up using a cheap strap wrench and it worked. Because of the geometry, it's tough to get leverage with your hands, and I don't have a shock vice. Strap wrench (cheap fabric strap with an old inner tube) easily took it off. A bigger spacer made a huge difference.
How do you remove the bushings and pin on the bottom of the fork?
There are 3 pieces all friction fit in place (pretty tight.) There's a center bushing that goes through the eye of the shock and 2 spacers either side ON that center bushing. I just worked on of the spacers by twisting to remove it. Then I tapped the center bushing out being very careful to not damage the end.
@@TrailBreaker 10/4. Im gonna have to get a dead blow or put a towel over it. Don't want to mess it up. Thanks for the insight.
@@TrailBreaker I cannot twist mine off. Do you have a video tutorial for this process?
"put it off for so long" my bike is a 2015 lol. Just now doing this. I know... way too long
Good luck👊
Just finished. That was easier than I thought it would be and your video helped a lot. Now to see if it holds air
Great technical video
Thanks!