Get the online service manual for your car to guide you through all your repairs EmanualOnline ----> shrsl.com/4nbut Use coupon ONETRICKTECH22 for 22% off site wide
At 6:40 you show that plate casually being removed but neglect to mention it’s held on by 3 screws only visible on the other side, which is covered up by the hub assembly. My assembly was rusted on and I bent the plate trying to pry it off! Eventually I figured it out but please be aware everyone!
If you plug the line as soon as you take it out, you can avoid having to bleed the brakes after the repair. So you should have something ready to plug the line like a small piece of paper towel.
You don't have to remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder or the speed sensor. The hub assembly can be replaced without doing that. Any time you break loose a brake line you should bleed the brakes. You didn't show that if you did it. The hub assembly bolts should be torqued to 37 ft lbs plus 40°. Also the lug nut torque is 100 ft lbs and not 80. Shade tree mechanicing at it's best in this video. Research your work to be done guys!
Question: The backing plate has a vent and the original hub assembly is open to the vent, and if you look through the center of the original hub, you can see light coming through the vent ... The new hub comes with the back sealed with a press-fit steel or aluminum cap; did you remove that cap before you installed it or leave it on? I just tried this the other day and destroyed that vent part of the backing plate (I ordered a new backing plate), but I'm wondering whether the cap stays on (new design?) or whether you're supposed to remove it.
The new bearing, ACDELCO 13591998, looks different than the existing part on my 2012 Chevy Cruze LTZ with rear disc brakes. The original part has an open back with an exposed rotating magnet. The new part is capped. Does the cap need to be removed to work with the wheel speed sensor?
Want to know there is old bearing and one now they have new updated bearing with cap on it Is it good or have to order same old one with magnet ring on it ?
it was to give more slack when moving the whole assembly. You don't have to remove it nor the brake line, you can do it just by removing the 4 bolts and hammering the bearing out.
Yes. You will get ABS code for erratic speed sensor signals caused by the magnetic ring on the wheel bearing to be rusted out and not sending a consistent signal.
The plate on the back that holds the ABS sensor, brake bracket and has the 4 bearing bolts going through it is held on by 2 small bolts, on yours I see the holes but no bolts. No easy access to bolt heads until bearing is removed. I'm still hitting my bearing through the 4 bolt holes, it will not come off.
You don't have to, I took it off because I was doing this job by myself. Once you take off the 4 wheel bearing bolts, you can knock the wheel bearing off like I did in the video, but you''ll have to have someone with you to hold the whole drum assembly with the backing plate so you can hammer the wheel bearing free. Hopefully that answered your question! Good Luck!
I don't know what you did different. but that back cover doesn't just come right off like it did for you I think it's bolted on from the other side. And also my bearing does not want to come out as easy as yours did. Ugh . I've been hammering on it for a while and it will not budge
yea you're right the back come cover its bolted with 3 bolts. I just removed it to get a better view of the bearing but its not necessary for the repair. as for the hammering part i used a 10 pound sledge to make it easier
BIG, BIG QUESTION???? If you remove the 4- Bolts in the back, WHY NOT JUST REMOVE THE HUB/BEARING,( not mess with the sensor or removing the brake line) ?????? The rear cover plate, looks like it could stay in place, since the hub/ bearing are in the front ? Appreciate if you could clear this up? My mechanic wants $150. To do that back bearing? I own a 15 mm wrench 🔧, at $37.50/ bolt, I could really save me that money?
Hey there, you can remove the bearing by just remove the 4 bolts in the back and then you can hammer it out. You will need someone to help you hold it or else the whole drum assembly will want to fall. Since I did this job alone, I had to remove the sensor to hammer it out face down.
To add after reading the comments, The hub does not just come off after removing the 4- back bolts: because there’s 3 inside bolts? Please make this job, simple/easily explained, I’m retired, trying to save some of my $$$$$, I’m not going into the REAR HUB CHEVY SONIC BUSINESS!
In this video you keep referring to the brake backing plate as the drum. You make no mention of NOT reusing the bolts that fasten the hub assembly to the suspension. You remove the speed sensor last, when it is the FIRST thing you are supposed to remove. You mention nothing about properly torquing the bolts, and that they are a “Yield to torque” type fastener, and you tighten them an additional degrees, after using the torque wrench. The backing plate does not have to be removed from the axle, and the brake line does not have to be disconnected. You give so much wrong information, and give so little correct information, you should not be allowed to post these videos on TH-cam. Someone is going to have a serious accident, as a result of your instructions. I highly recommend you buy and read factory shop manuals , to gain proper knowledge on repairing cars.
when you remove the bolts for the hub the backing plate will come loose because its the only thing holding it. which axle are you talking about ? because there is none. You can waste your time with torque specs if you want, its really unnecessary.
I HATE drum brakes. I have them on my car and they make me want to puke every time I even catch a glimpse of them. I’ve done a good bit of research and still don’t really see why companies are still using them in modern designs. Cheaper? Seems to be a big debate but not really that much cheaper. Safer? Just as safe as disc. Last longer? Kind of but a little more complicated to replace and work around. I would rather replace brake pads more often and be able to work around a brake caliper.
Get the online service manual for your car to guide you through all your repairs
EmanualOnline ----> shrsl.com/4nbut
Use coupon ONETRICKTECH22 for 22% off site wide
At 6:40 you show that plate casually being removed but neglect to mention it’s held on by 3 screws only visible on the other side, which is covered up by the hub assembly. My assembly was rusted on and I bent the plate trying to pry it off! Eventually I figured it out but please be aware everyone!
Great Video! As a Cruze owner, this was very helpful!
Thank you!
You still have to bleed the brakes and it's a lot easier to do with the wheel off. And you should adjust your brake pads once you put the drum on
You don’t have to bleed the brakes or anything since you took the brake line off?
If you plug the line as soon as you take it out, you can avoid having to bleed the brakes after the repair. So you should have something ready to plug the line like a small piece of paper towel.
You don't have to remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder or the speed sensor. The hub assembly can be replaced without doing that. Any time you break loose a brake line you should bleed the brakes. You didn't show that if you did it. The hub assembly bolts should be torqued to 37 ft lbs plus 40°. Also the lug nut torque is 100 ft lbs and not 80. Shade tree mechanicing at it's best in this video. Research your work to be done guys!
Good video
Question: The backing plate has a vent and the original hub assembly is open to the vent, and if you look through the center of the original hub, you can see light coming through the vent ... The new hub comes with the back sealed with a press-fit steel or aluminum cap; did you remove that cap before you installed it or leave it on? I just tried this the other day and destroyed that vent part of the backing plate (I ordered a new backing plate), but I'm wondering whether the cap stays on (new design?) or whether you're supposed to remove it.
The cap stays on. I thought the same thing but I guess it was just the new design of it.
Hello how are you do you guys have the part number for the backing plate, i broke mine today and i can’t find it anywhere
The new bearing, ACDELCO 13591998, looks different than the existing part on my 2012 Chevy Cruze LTZ with rear disc brakes. The original part has an open back with an exposed rotating magnet. The new part is capped. Does the cap need to be removed to work with the wheel speed sensor?
yes the cap stays on, it comes ready to install
Want to know there is old bearing and one now they have new updated bearing with cap on it
Is it good or have to order same old one with magnet ring on it ?
the one with the cap is good, its a upgraded part
Don’t you have to bleed the brake line after removing it?
yes
does wheel bearing affect speed sensor circuit low signal amplitude?
yes
one question why are you removing the abs sensor it does not go through the bearing the sensor is behind the bearing
it was to give more slack when moving the whole assembly. You don't have to remove it nor the brake line, you can do it just by removing the 4 bolts and hammering the bearing out.
what would be the reason for wheel bearing to be replaced? if abs light goes on for right rear?
Yes. You will get ABS code for erratic speed sensor signals caused by the magnetic ring on the wheel bearing to be rusted out and not sending a consistent signal.
@@OneTrickTech thanks for the confrimation.
When you say "I just hit it to get the wheel bearing off" how much "hitting" did that require?
a few hits because I was using a 10lbs sledgehammer. If you have a lighter you have to hit more.
I'm having the same issue because mine does not want to come out I've been hammering on it for quite a while now. Lol
@@davieboy1970 i need jesus christ himself, zeus, and thor to get this sum bitch off here
The plate on the back that holds the ABS sensor, brake bracket and has the 4 bearing bolts going through it is held on by 2 small bolts, on yours I see the holes but no bolts. No easy access to bolt heads until bearing is removed. I'm still hitting my bearing through the 4 bolt holes, it will not come off.
Can you re-use hub bolts?
yes
Whats the torque specs for the bearings bolts
66 ft-lbs
Do you have to take off the brake line?
You don't have to, I took it off because I was doing this job by myself. Once you take off the 4 wheel bearing bolts, you can knock the wheel bearing off like I did in the video, but you''ll have to have someone with you to hold the whole drum assembly with the backing plate so you can hammer the wheel bearing free. Hopefully that answered your question! Good Luck!
I don't know what you did different. but that back cover doesn't just come right off like it did for you I think it's bolted on from the other side. And also my bearing does not want to come out as easy as yours did. Ugh . I've been hammering on it for a while and it will not budge
yea you're right the back come cover its bolted with 3 bolts. I just removed it to get a better view of the bearing but its not necessary for the repair. as for the hammering part i used a 10 pound sledge to make it easier
BIG, BIG QUESTION????
If you remove the 4- Bolts in the back, WHY NOT JUST REMOVE THE HUB/BEARING,( not mess with the sensor or removing the brake line) ??????
The rear cover plate, looks like it could stay in place, since the hub/ bearing are in the front ?
Appreciate if you could clear this up?
My mechanic wants $150. To do that back bearing?
I own a 15 mm wrench 🔧, at $37.50/ bolt, I could really save me that money?
Hey there, you can remove the bearing by just remove the 4 bolts in the back and then you can hammer it out. You will need someone to help you hold it or else the whole drum assembly will want to fall. Since I did this job alone, I had to remove the sensor to hammer it out face down.
To add after reading the comments,
The hub does not just come off after removing the 4- back bolts: because there’s 3 inside bolts?
Please make this job, simple/easily explained, I’m retired, trying to save some of my $$$$$, I’m not going into the REAR HUB CHEVY SONIC BUSINESS!
not everyone is cut out with explaining in detail everything they do...
Parts and Tool List Below!
AC Delco Wheel Bearing Assembly: amzn.to/3r0eZf5
In this video you keep referring to the brake backing plate as the drum. You make no mention of NOT reusing the bolts that fasten the hub assembly to the suspension. You remove the speed sensor last, when it is the FIRST thing you are supposed to remove. You mention nothing about properly torquing the bolts, and that they are a “Yield to torque” type fastener, and you tighten them an additional degrees, after using the torque wrench.
The backing plate does not have to be removed from the axle, and the brake line does not have to be disconnected.
You give so much wrong information, and give so little correct information, you should not be allowed to post these videos on TH-cam. Someone is going to have a serious accident, as a result of your instructions. I highly recommend you buy and read factory shop manuals , to gain proper knowledge on repairing cars.
when you remove the bolts for the hub the backing plate will come loose because its the only thing holding it. which axle are you talking about ? because there is none. You can waste your time with torque specs if you want, its really unnecessary.
Hammering the bearing wouldn’t work,there’s 3 bolts keeping the bearing stuck to the back plate,this video should come with a warning of that
I HATE drum brakes. I have them on my car and they make me want to puke every time I even catch a glimpse of them. I’ve done a good bit of research and still don’t really see why companies are still using them in modern designs. Cheaper? Seems to be a big debate but not really that much cheaper. Safer? Just as safe as disc. Last longer? Kind of but a little more complicated to replace and work around. I would rather replace brake pads more often and be able to work around a brake caliper.
I've been told that they're in fact cheaper. Not by alot but they're cheaper to make lol 😆. But yea drum brakes r honestly annoying to deal with
Like