Creality CR-10 Bed Leveling , First Print & Best Adhesion: Beginners Guide Part 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 เม.ย. 2017
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Thanks for doing these videos man. I literally set up my CR10 yesterday, using your set up and adjusting video. It was a great help, as this one will be when I try my first print today. Looking forward to more videos, especially how to use Cura.
This video, along with your video on how to put the CR10 together have made this a great experience! I followed every step - thank you SO MUCH for mentioning the voltage! - and feel confident that all is well. I am printing the cat, we will see how the first print turns out! Thank you for being there for us noobs!
I know how it feels, happy to help. Good Luck man.
Dude that tip about the noise is spot on for a starting place thanks so much. Much easier than trying to gauge tightness.
Happy to Help!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Mine arrived today and I couldn't wait to get it together after work, I really appreciate your effort in this.
Happy to help.
Thanks for the video. My CR10 is coming tomorrow and I'm going to use your video as a "how to" guide when it gets delivered. I've been out of the 3D printing scene for a few years but I have the itch to get back in to it again.
This video and your first were a ton of help!! Couldn't have done it without you. Thanks!!
just got a cr10s and your videos were so helpful. thank you so much
Thank you for posting this. I just received my CR10 and am finding your videos useful.
Happy to Help!
I'm waiting on mine arriving so these videos are very helpful to get me up and running asap when I get the box! Looking forward to the Cura video!
Glad it helped out. I am working on the Cura video today so i mitt have it up by tomorrow.
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Enjoy!!!
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I was looking for a decent price and on Gearbest it's for 369.99 dollars with coupon code: 3DCR1
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Gearbest is a well known online store, so...
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NobleBrutus are you using the stock glass or was yours warped
Thank you!!! I just bought my first 3D printer and I was so close to throwing it out the window because the assembly was such a challenge. At my age (65) who needs the aggravation? Your first video was a godsend! Just started watching video #2, I'm sure it will be great!
Good luck and happy printing.
Mine finally came today, luckily I was home to collect. Totally unexpected as it’s taken two months to arrive
Your videos are very helpful for me, so far I’ve found the instruction relatively intuitive especially after viewing this.
Good Luck!
I love my CR-10 , so clean to print and the easiest kit I have ever put together
Its a printing Beast, i love mine.
Very awesome! I just received mine and was intimidated. I still haven't seen all of this one but watched all of part 1 and is very helpful.
happy to help.
wow! This video was just what I needed to get my printer up and running. I was following the booklet but it was a little confusing. Thank you so much!!!!!!
Happy to help
Thanks for the instructional videos! Was able to get my christmas CR-10 mini up and going and printing the cat now.
Happy to help! Good luck.
Awesome video man! I had figured out the assembly but this portion had me baffled thank you!!
Happy to un-baffle you, good luck and happy printing!
Need to thank you for this video and the assembly of the CR-10S. You really made the difference for me. The only hangup I had was trying to figure out the bed leveling. Tightening those things drops its. Loosening raises it. It wasn't intuitive for me. I had the same issue when I first set up my Prusa MK2. I gouged my PEI sheet in leveling because I wasn't thinking inverted. Thanks again.
Leveling is one of the most tricky things to do. Simply and the hardest but with time you will be leveling without paper. Good luck to you bud.
Very happy to see a video on this machine from someone not paid or gifted with it for free. Thank you for spending your own time and money to increase our knowledge.
I wish you luck ! liked and subscribed.
TheSolderingGuy007 thank you sir. It actually means a lot.
Another very helpful video. Really helped me get set up. Thanks!
Dude, thanks for the video, I just got this printer, the first one for me and I've been trying to get it to work with no luck, hope your tips do the trick. thanks again
Rauno Jalandi I hope it works too. Good luck
I just got my first printer and your step by step videos are incredibly helpful, especially since I dont want to break this thing xD
Happy it helped, good luck.
So glad you make these videos!!!! Thanks :)
Clyde Barrow thanks, I will have a new video out tonite with the best adhesion so far
Hey man, the videos are great, but the intro audio is too loud and your voice is low. I recommend adjust
:)
Émerson André sorry for that, this was one of my first videos. I learned a few editing things since then. These things are fixed now.
I even put an externbal speaker on my computer and his voice ie still way too low.
thank you for you saying that because i didnt know how to say it polite
Excellent video! You really nailed it on the leveling part.
D.E. Sarcarean thanks
Well done video. Super helpful. Love, love, love that you are a Destiny fan, like me. Thanks for showing those :)
will vickers thanks. Check out my last video. I just got don't making the speaker mask.
Thank you 1000 times over. Without your videos I would have been lost. I am up and printing, first time success because of your videos. Keep up the great work. I am in your debt lol
happy to help bud!
Two weeks ago I assemble my CR-10. My experience with the Prusa MK2 has shown me that a PEI Bed is in my opinion an ideal Print be; I purchase a sheet of 12x12 inch PEI and 3M Glue sheets from Amazon. SOOO; in preparation for my first use, I installed a PEI Sheet on the Glass. Went rhrough the bed leveling technique shown here and printed my first print. It stuck to the bed just fine and I was able to pry it off with the scraper that came with the CR-10 and it was great. I have since designed and printed a paper Tray that used the full width of the bed and it turned out great. I highly recommend the installation of the PEI sheet and do away with the Tape and other efforts to prepare to print. All you have to do with the PEI sheet is wipe it off periodically with alcohol and your are ready to go.
I have looked into that and it looks promising. Thanks for the info!
Thank you for making these videos for us!!!
Happy to Help!
Great Job. Mine will arrive tomorrow.
rusty gray happy to help
Thank you so much for this video man! I just got a CR-10 and the print wouldn’t stick to the bed. What no one told me before was that there had to be friction between the nozzle and the bed for the piece of paper!
Happy to help!
thank you for both views, I was lost. they are not too long I like the detail
Thanks!
good INFO!
I have no CR-10 but a DIY Prusa I3
do have a big screen on it,
I can not test it now 1 2 3
but hope that I can also do that filament exchange as you did.
(Of course with reference to the firmware that I have???)
I will test this later too!
friendly greetings from The Netherlands!
Rob
Great video. The information you share is very helpful. Thank you for what you do.
Glad it was helpful!
Good, informative video. I like how you are presenting it just like most of us... as a beginner. Most of the videos on here they either talk over your head or too fast to keep up. Thumbs up!
Sorry for late reply, Thank you.
Another great video.
Great tutorial. Thanks
just got mine thanks mate yourve been a great help
westonbuys1 happy to help
That was very helpfull. Thank you!
Kosta Welissariou thanks.
Thanks for the video. Watched the set up when I put mine together and the leveling. Question. Im going to print right on the glass, do you still recommend the glue stick on the glass? I heard hair spray on the glass was good but it didn't work for you. Please advise.
That was very helpful. Thanks a lot!
happy to help!
Good stuff. Thanks!
Thanks man, this bed levelling part is the most difficult part of 3D printing for me. The own the CR-10 S and levelling is the same as this version of the printer. However, the four corners seem to be "level" while the middle is way to close for me. I believe this is because the included glass plate is imperfect and "bubbled" in the middle. Going to get a mirrored title or such and try that instead. Also going to get a standard "bubble level" to see if that could help. My prints are coming out 75% good and 25% string bits.
check your temp and retraction setting for the stringing.
Outstanding video. Compares nicely to your intro on this printer.
thanks.
Great video. Thank you
Thanks
Adhesion: Level the bed. Maybe have things a little bit closer than you normally do. The bed needs to be CLEAN. Use acetone and kitchen roll, or something that evaporates and doesn't leave a residue. Set the bed temperature to 63. Print. Simple as that. To get your part off the bed (yes, it will be stuck fast), wait till it cools down. No tape, no glue, no hairspray, no old wive's tales. Just a CLEAN glass bed at the right temperature.
Over the last year I have found that Elmers washable purple school glue on the glass (no tape) works very well for PLA. Kapton tape works very well for ABS.
I have tried that glue as well and it does work pretty good.
The best videos on YT
Ha ha ha, Thanks man that means a lot.
Thanks this video helped alot!!!😁
your welcome.
Thanks soooo much for this! Just got my CR10S today....it's assembled and will start printing tomorrow! Wish me luck! This helped greatly!
Best,
John
Happy to help. if you need any help. please let me know.
Youre my hero!!!! Subscribed!
Happy to help Man.
Hi again, I have built my printer with your instructions! Went very well. I even did some prints. And after 3 prints I noticed a problem... the x belt is rubbing against the metal guider and is damaging it!!! On the left the belt goes in the middle of the metal guider, but on the right it goes wrong. The sharp edge is damaging the belt :( I tried moving the belt, but it slides right back. Have you heard of this? Do you know what to do about it???
Can you email me some pictures so i can look at it Sanvideos2017@gmail.com. After looking at it i will get back to you.
Good job- I am new on this and you explained it well, THX, , just how long does it take for small print - like Cat?
4 hours.
I just completed the setup and your instructions were clear and concise....thanks soooo much. One question, the send plastic on the bed do I remove that
If it looks like it was for packing purposes then yes. The bed on the printer should be bare with nothing on it.
@@SANTUBE thanks again, to honest I did not expect such a prompt response....consider me subscribed!Blessings
thank you very much that was helpful
thank you.
Thank you so much this video help me lot
Your Welcome!
thanks for making this video. I noticed that the tape on the bed over lapped each other. are you concerned that might be an issues for the level/nozzle head? I assume the over lap of tape would cause the nozzle to be very close to it. what do you think?
If you want to get technical yes there is be a very small offset but for more parts there is no visible imperfection that i have seen as of yet.
Thank you for the video. Loads of info. I just purchased one Creality CR-10s. What those stickers are gone, Can I print directly to the glass bed? Or should I use another kind of tape?
You can use 2 inch blue painters masking tape. DO NOT OVERLAP SEAMS. cheap easy enough and works thats the best part
Hi from New Zealand.I've brought one of these and waiting for it to arrive.Can you tell me before you started the print process and you were setting up the control box up it seem quiet load coming from the box.Is it a noisy printer as i am going to set it up in my lounge.Great Video on setting the frame work up.
Laurence Maud assuming this was 5months ago and you probably set it up by now. How’s the noise for you?
Do I have to level the bad before every print or just like once a while?
Awesomeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Stan The Man!
Happy to help!
Umm, a couple things missing here. Where did the gcode files come from? Are they samples that are on the xd card (not put there by you)? You confused me because you said you put them there. If so, did you have to slice them using the app (forgot name) and how/where did you do that? Sorry for so many questions.....
I'm having a hell of a time leveling this thing and was wondering if you could help. So I went to Home Depot and got a pack of mirror tiles, and even still I'm getting pretty large changes in height (as much as 2-3 sheets of paper worth) after leveling the corners from the middle. The middle of the bed has a significant sag that I can't seem to resolve. Even if I put aluminum sheets under the bed to offset the dip in the middle, it will throw off the leveling of random parts of the bed. Has anybody else had these issues and how did you solve them?
I'm having problems with feeding the filament. My cr 10 backs it out all the way before printing and feeds it back in not enough to extrude. I feed it in manually, it deposits a little bit ( I assume to clear the line ) but then nothing seems to come out during print.
Thank you
Steve Buys happy to help
I changed glass on the table, at the factory deformation the middle is lower than the edges. Put customary glass 31x31cm thickness 4mm
Ya there glasses that get shipped n r defective. I was lucky n mine was fine. Happy printing
I found an easy wat to level if this didnt work
Go to prepare, move axis choose Zand then choose up
As to how I leveled my bed... first I bottomed out all 4 adjusters. lowering the bed as much as possible. this was still not enough for the nozzle to get clearance over the glass. so I used the manual move option and raised the nozzle .5mm this gave me just enough clearance.
Later I want to change this to 2mm and loosen the adjusters so they are not under so much tension all the time. I also need to do the adjustment with the bed at the preheat temp. In my G-code I have to set an initial Z-axis offset so that all G-code works from a false bed height in order that once that manual adjustment on the printer disappears the nozzle will not drag on and flex the bed for the first few layers. there is a problem with my machine where the end stop sensor for the z-axis is too low. causes the print head to really press down on my glass bed. needing a .5mm adjustment means the first two .2mm layers are not happening, then the third layer will be half height without any G-code adjustments. not good.
When the nozzle is on the face of the bed, it also acts as a stopper for the nozzle resulting in back pressure that causes the extruder to skip and strip the filament.
so a proper manual adjustment (as best I can determine, and this will be wordy for accuracy), for a dual Z model, goes like this..(please forgive any terms I get wrong) If you can understand these instruction, this would make a great video on perfect bed setup. It sounds a lot more complicated than it is.
Do this process with no tape or other material on the glass surface.
1. raise nozzle 50mm or so, just get it completely clear of the bed for now.
2. tighten all bed adjustment knobs.
3. measure height of bed above frame near [x-min, y-min]i.e. the home position. compare this to measurement at [x-max, y-min]
4. Loosen which ever adjuster is the lower measurement so that it matches the higher measurement.
5. Loosen rod/motor coupler on second Z-axis.
6. Measure rail height above the bed, at x-min with print head at x-min. measure x-max rail height with the print head at x-max. compare these two measurements.
7. While you have the print head at x-max, adjust x-max rail height by rotating the second t-rod by hand (it's loose, remember) until x-max rail height matches x-min rail height. There is no end-stop switch on this second z-axis motor so all adjustments are relative to the first z-axis. both motors are sent the same commands so once you match them this way it should stay matched.
8. lower nozzle to bed and check for nozzle clearance at both x-min and x-max. I like to use the manual movement option in the control box to make the nozzle touch the table, you can see the bed flex, and the print head lifts, when it touches. Then I back off by .1mm at a time until the tension is off the bed and the print head is again hanging freely. remember this setting. you will need it in step 12.
make an adjustment if needed by turning the second z-axis rod. Now the rail is squared to the bed while the x rail is under the weight of the print head.
9. Tighten the coupler on the second z-axis
10. you should be able to move the print head along the x-axis now at absolute minimum clearance without any touching.
11. Use control box to raise the print head once more to 50mm or so and send the print head to the x-min, y-max location.
12. At x-min and y-max, lower the z-axis until you reach the .1mm less than setting you used in step 8.
13. loosen the bed adjustment knob until you see the bed touch the nozzle. use the control box to raise the z-axis by .1mm, if properly adjusted you will see the same behavior of the bed and the print head that you saw in step 8.
14. raise z-axis and move print head to x-max, y-max.
15. repeat step 13 in this position.
16. in your slicer set the offset you desire. This should be that same value from step 8. For Simplify3d this setting is found in the "process settings" on the G-code" tab. it's the Z-axis setting in the "Global G-code Offsets" box. If you use tape or some other material on top of the glass bed (i do not), you may have to increase this number to account for that added thickness.
A final test now, printing 4 copies of a single layer object, one at each corner, should reveal 4 objects that look pretty identical in appearance quality, and thickness. This same test is great for adjusting your extrusion multiplier and/or "First Layer Settings"
Garden Troll I would like to see it but have u tried moving ur z sensor a little higher. That mitt help too.
Thanks great help on how to get the layer stuck ;-)
Happy to help!
hi there it's me again. just a quick question,with the glass, do you tape one size up with crepe paper? also for the aluminium plate do you stick the two sheets of yellow paper down as well?
I place the tape on the glass only and if there is a bow in the middle then I double up on that.
Great video. Only comment is you really should be leveling with your bed and nozzle warmed up.
Thanks Don, new guy question: so why do i want to warm it up first?
Basically just because the bed with expand and contract with the heat and if you level it cold it can throw the whole thing off. I wouldn't heat it all the way to printing temp but definitely not cold.
Wasnt being critical in any way. You did a great job of presenting the information very clearly and well thought out.
not taken in negative way at all, still new at this.thanks for your info man.
I am still new at this i thank you for your info man, thanks
No problem! I have only been doing it for a short time too. Have learned lots from the forums though and I have my printers running pretty much 24 hours a day usually 4-5 days a week.
What is the yellow paper under the glass bed?
Hi San Tube, thanks for the great videos. The instructions for the CR-10 are not the best haha. How do you prevent your nozzle from melting/burning the tape?
Don't let it sit on top and also when you level your bed lower all the leveling screws first so the nozzle doesn't press down on the bed.
nice video, good info
Thank you, good luck and happy printing
@@SANTUBE Thanks mate! I just ordered a cr10, i was thinking of spending more on the cr10s but i figured why not go with the cr10 because i like tinkering :)
@@aarriikknn33ll man believe it or not my favorite printer til this day is cr-10.
@@SANTUBE lovely i guess :)
@@SANTUBE Read soo many reviews, so i expect it to be a very good printer, only thing i am gonna have to get used to is leveling the bed :)
For the print bed, do you just use the tape provided and stick them on the glass? How is it possible to do that without any trapped air bubbles? I am assuming that we would need to stick on multiple strips. If that is the case, isn't it difficult to get a smooth surface?
Yes and no, I now use glass but when i did use tape i would use like a credit card and smooth it out.
Destiny Awesome!
Ya working on more destiny stuff.
May I ask how long it took to get the bed temp up to 50degC? And what is the power rating (Watts) on the power supply in the controller box?
power supply is 360 watts, 12volt and 30amps. Its takes about four to five minutes to get to that temp.
What slicer do you use now?
Hey there. First of all thanks for the video. My problem right now is that the nozzle seems to be too high on the top right side. The bed cant be leveled more upwars. I tried so many times but I still is about 3mm to high doesnt matter how many times I adjust the others.
Please help i'm having a breakdown here.
Thomen there is a few things you can do. Now before I start telling you what the problem mite be please keep in mind I am going off what I think the problem is and I am not at your printer to see the exact problem. Make sure your X axis is leveled( that’s the axis your nozzle is on and moves left to right). Also try switching the spring from another location to the front top right. But the easiest fix would be to go buy a thicker mirror plate from your local glass shop, you can pick one up between 7-13 dollars.
When you first turned on the cr 10, which fan booted up to make that much noise off the bat?
it does for about five seconds or so then it should go away.
i had just the opposite problem regarding sticking. I needed to use hairspray to reduce adhesion to my bed. I was ruining all my prints trying to remove them.
Garden Troll when you level your bed leave a little bit of extra space when you do the paper leveling also go a little bit lighter whatever use and that should help.
I actually had to perform my bed leveling in a completely different manner, one YOU may have to make a video for :) I purchased my S5 version from sainsmart and the neglected to set the proper bed size in the firmware. auto-leveling only uses on quadrant of the bed in this state, so it's useless. they also do not install a bootloader, so I am unable at this time to update the firmware and fix this problem.
Just out of curiosity, why do you need tape and glue if you have a heated bed? I've been looking at buying this printer but I have a prusa i3 and have never needed tape or glue. I used to have a makerbot rep 2 and had a nightmare of a time getting things to stick.
If you have your printer tuned in perfectly then you don't need to tape or glue or hairspray. The purpose of the tape and glue is to get better adhesion for your prints, this way when you have big prints it doesn't fall over or get ruined.
This intro scared my cat
ha ha ha, sorry about that I was new to editing.
Nice star shirt..
Thank you Sir.
I came to it . Basic mistake is touch on Z axis when you do calibration . You can touch only on the bed....Just press auto home and Dont touch Z axis .Use displey for movement X and Y axis :P
Hi, just want to start out by saying these videos are INSANELY helpful I dont know what I'd do without them but I tried printing the cat model from the sd card and when it began printing the filament I noticed immediately that it was not making a model remotely similar to yours. tried a different file same shape just went to far left corner of the bed and went left right left right left right over and over. Stopped my print after I heard the extruder struggling to move to the right and got this one thick sliver of plastic. Any help?
my back left corner clip actually snapped off and broke due to the extruder trying to print on it. I positioned them to the exact same position as you did in the video please if anyone can help me it'd be a HUGE help
do a guide on support... how to remove it and at what percent it will be easy to remove using cura XD... im using this printer also
I will put it on my todo list
Hello, me again... I noticed on your screen (on the left upper corner) it says 3D with you. When I look on my screen it says 3D 300. What is this? Is that an older version?? I do miss some of the options you have...
i never noticed that. i just thought all of them came with that. i will check this when i get home.
leveling that bed was a real bitch. Thanks anyways, got this thing up and running because of your videos
Good Luck with your prints!
hi, all seems ok ! how long for the cat to print pls ?
Eric Czeladka o man that was a while ago but I think 4 to 5
Hi, I was wondering... why do you have clips on the sides of your glass???
its to keep the glass down and connected to the heat bed otherwise it can come loose and your print will be all over the place.
Ok, thanks! By the way... GREAT other video where you show how to put the printer together. Will try it this weekend :)
Happy to help!
What are those two yellow sheets between glass and heatbed?
Just yellow tape
Have mine set up but the center is loose and the corners are just about right so i dont get adhesion in the center could my glass be warped or is there something im missing
Most likely its your glass.
Hey SAN TUBE, I have several problems and I wonder if you bumped into them, first one is my part detaches from the bed couple of minutes after the printing starts, I used glue stick one that time, and the second one is that the first layer does not attach itself to the bed, meaning the filament kinda hardens on the nozzle and until the 'second' layer of the part has started printing the the filament goes smoothly, any ideas?
It seems like most of your problems have to do with bed leveling. Try to take your time and level your bed. I have a video out there for bed leveling, check it out.
I have a quick question how do you take the 3d printed model of the the mine take a lot of pulling to take off
What do you print on glass, tape, etc. but try to wait until the bed cools down to around 20 then it should pop off.
How much time did it take for the cat to print? Thank you.
4 hours.
Should I get the SD card extension?
yes, it will help a lot. this is the one i bought: SD card extion: amzn.to/2wyWxjq
what weight is the paper? 24lb? different weights are different thicknesses. Thanks!
its just a standard 8x11 printing paper.
when you do Autohome the bed goes to the back with the extruder going all the way to the left mine goes to the front with the extruder also going to the left is this normal?
When you auto home your Bed should go back and Nozzle should be moving to the left. If it does the opposite i think you mite have your axis wires crossed.
My bed goes all the way back on the y axis and binds on autohome
The whole head assemble on you printer is not square?
Ya i show that after the video and had it fixed.