3D Printing ABS on the CR10? Building a 3D Printer Enclosure with Punished Props
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- Bill from Punished Props stopped by to help build an enclosure for the Creality CR10 3D Printer. We wanted to print a large ABS print, but with the open design, we first needed an enclosure to keep the heat in and the ambient temperature consistent.
Visit Punished Props!
punishedprops.com
==== Matterhackers helps the channel, show them some love
MH BUILD series filaments: 3d.pn/mhbuild
MH PRO series filaments: 3d.pn/mhpro
3D Printers & Printer Kits: 3d.pn/mhprinters
Matterhackers Storefront: 3d.pn/matterhac...
==== Buy a Creality Cr-10 from Gearbest:
US Plug (Yellow): 3d.pn/cr10us
US Plug (Blue): 3d.pn/cr10usblue
EU Plug (Yellow): 3d.pn/cr10eu
EU Plug (Blue): 3d.pn/cr10eublue
==== Buy the Cr-10 from Banggood:
Cr-10: 3d.pn/cr10bg
Cr-10 S4: 3d.pn/cr10s4bg
Cr-10 S5: 3d.pn/cr10s5bg
==== Like what we DID? Buy me a coffee!
www.buymeacoff...
www.ko-fi.com/...
==== LIke what we DO? Support the channel on Patreon
3d.pn/patreon
==== Shop affiliates by using the links below!
Printed Solid: 3d.pn/printedsolid
Amazon US: 3d.pn/amazon
Amazon Canada: 3d.pn/amazonca
Amazon UK: 3d.pn/amazonuk
==== Safety Joel and Joelbot Shirts IN STOCK!
Safety Joel / Joelbot Shirts: 3d.pn/shop
3DPN Mug: 3d.pn/mug
3DPN Logo Shirt: 3d.pn/shirt
==== Find Me Socially
Twitch: / joeltelling
Twitter: / joeltelling
Facebook: / 3dprintingnerd
Instagram: / joeltelling
==== Donate Crypto Coins to the Channel
Bitcoin: 1L4D7HZ198DHfYyfcKim11cPV1pSvkBzQA
Ethereum: 0x87a3f850c2Bf20D929303200f53aAb8d8d7E2279
Litecoin: LeMZvR4WUCngynZ4D8h2BDUQdqS1GdBwK2
==== Want to send me something?
attn: 3D Printing Nerd
509 NE 165th st
Shoreline, WA 98155
USA
Music provided by futurevega.sou...
Royalty Free Music by www.audiomicro....
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.910 | 22 ก.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4TR3MVpOiw8/mqdefault.jpg)
Can't believe I just spent a half hour watching someone make a foam box.
Some observations:
Shiny side in
Test the fit BEFORE adding fixtures.
Top vent useless if there is a huge hole in the side
Superglue melts Styrofoam
Fern Moore but, I mean, at least they made it entertaining!
Really bothered me that the shiny side wasn't in.
@Bondy, If they only use it with the cr10, not much of a fire risk since the stock bed only plays at heating up. :P
As it is not as obvious as I thought it was, DISCLAIMER TO ALL. My previous comment was sarcastic humor aimed at the cr10, and not meant to be taken seriously.
I am glad others were annoyed by them not putting the shiny side in.
Hey Joel.... why is your insulation shiny side out?
Bugged me too. I would call that a miss.
Yeah, your box totally negates the radiant heat reflection of the mylar. A decent portion of the heat put out by your CR10 is being absorbed by the foam. It makes a difference which side is out when using it to insulate your house, so I imagine it would make a difference when super heating Chinese electronics.
the heat is probably 90% convection so "its so shiny" is fine by me. Also, it stops the screws pulling through to foam.
The asymmetric placement of the hinges triggered my OCD too.
And the magnet could have been hidden behind the knob.
The more sensitive electronics was kept outside the enclosure.
You are right about the mylar but I feel like the giant slot in the side is a much bigger problem than the orientation of the mylar.
The opening cut for a register might not have helped either. Those things aren't air tight even when closed, but that's probably a smaller problem than an unobstructed slot in the side.
Well that was a red hot mess to watch. 😀
it was a red hot mess lol
I had the same problem with my cr-10, bed not heating up past 76 degrees C. I was told to double check the 120 /220 slide switch on the side. Being the arrogant fool I was, I laughed at him and said ..yeah did that already. Then I was told to use a thin small screwdriver and finish pushing it to 120v and guess what he was right because then it was no longer stuck halfway between the two voltages. It wasn't making good a good connection. Now my bed heats to 115 degrees C. So that was a humbling lesson. Maybe that's the problem with the bed heating properly.
Please read through the various comments Joel. I really feel you two need to reattempt this after hearing everyone's advice and suggestions. It should be possible to make a heat enclosure for the CR10 so that you can deliver quality ABS prints from it. Don't give up.
made one late last year when the loft where the CR10 is got really gold. Mine has a small greenhouse heater to keep ambient temperature warm for printing (no more MINTEMP errors). No window, just a huge removable panel for the door, made whole space large enough for the filament spool at the side/top (depends how I'm feeling) and a webcam. All glued with hot melt glue then taped up. Heated bed alone gets it up to 40C+ in there.
Thank you for publishing not only successes but also failures. I learn more from a failure than I do from a success. For me, this is the very best video you have made so far. You rock guys!
this kind of comercials really makes sense. U managed to create content which fits perfectly with sellers. Congrats bro
I made a foam enclosure years ago. Note that the foil should be on the inside. If you cut the foam at 45 degree angles, you can use glue to fuse them together. Using 2 inch thick foam is not much more expensive but holds the heat in a whole lot better. I used a cheap webcam and LED Light so I could see inside along with a reptile heater to give a boost to the warmth inside.
Can we title this video "how not to build a 3D printer enclosure"?
Same thought bro
My 6 years old son can build this piece of crap really better than those fool. Come on guys, didn't you go to kindergarten?
petition for Joel/ Bill to make a hot wire foam slicer.
Domenico Lamberti that is a great idea
yeah ... lets see him cut through that metal coating .... oops
I've not seen Bill use a heated foam slicer, nor discuss an aversion to them, but I would think he's got plenty of opinions as to their usefulness. Either way I would think this is an area where you're better off buying, rather than building, unless Bill has some specific feature requirements that market has not met thus far.
ironically I made a 3D printable hotwire cutter handle. That said a sharp utility knife will cut foam like no one's business!
I needed to power my heated bed with a 24V power supply to reach temperatures for ABS. Now it reaches 100C degrees in about 4 minutes. It's a 300x300mm aluminum heated bed.
Thanks for the shout out, joel!
Please create a DIY channel together. This is the most entertaining video I've seen in youtube in ages.
Joel & Billy,
You can have the home center cut the sheets down for you for no extra cost. Err, shouldn't you put the reflective side INSIDE??? I would use the pink insulation foam so the little foam shit doesn't get in everything. I would also attach a grounding wire to the box to bleed off any static buildup on the foam box. Last thing you wanna do is EMP your printer.
CapnRumple It depends on the store. Not all stores do that.
I've had it done at Home Depot & Lowes.
I had to come back for another laugh!!!! This is hilarious!!!! I would keep an extinguisher nearby, though so you won't have to pull a "This Is Us" and haul ass at 3am for a fire evacuation. Seeing ole Bill-bo inside that doghouse trying to dial it in was classic!!!! This is a major fail and it was hilarious!!!!! Billy was trying to get the hell outta dodge; rushing like he had better things to do! Classic!!! Thanks Joel! I would say don't quit your day job, but it's too late for that!!!! LOL!!!! Just kidding! :--) Funny video man! Keep em' coming!!!!
Good grief! I wouldn't hire you guys to make anything after watching this lol
I do admire your bravery actually posting it to TH-cam though :-)
1. The shiny side reflects radiant heat effectively when there is an air barrier, so put shiny side facing the hot parts for better effectiveness. 2. you can easily cut big chunky square dovetails along each edge to add strength over the simple butt joint you used. 3. painting outside with thick paint over a layer of fiberglass window screen adds stiffness on the cheap.
Another excellent production! I “built” an enclosure for my Ender 3 using a large cardboard moving box from U-Haul, a 24 x 36 inch sheet of polycarbonate, and some Gorilla Tape for a hinge. Six small neodymium magnets hold the “door” against the opening nicely. When ambient is 70-80 F, the enclosure stabilizes to between 110-120 F, regulated by a small adjustable vent on top, inspired by your production. Before using the enclosure, my Ender 3’s bed, with a borosilicate plate instead of the stock one, would not heat above 90-95 C in room temperatures, but now can reach 120 C in around 8 minutes. I get excellent results with ABS when printing my initial layer at 110 C, dropping to 100 C afterwards. Your tips on improving 3D prints have been awesome, thanks!
Awesome project Joel and Bill. You guys are amazing.
I have a CR-10s I bought in 2020 that couldn't get the bed up to 100C without shutting down most days and it would take the better part of an hour. I could get it to about 96C for printing but once the print started, the bed struggled to keep the temp and would sometimes shut down during the print. This told me that I probably needed a bigger power supply. Or, I could upgrade the bed heater with one with a higher wattage that plugs directly into the wall, but I wanted to wait on that. Since I was printing ABS, I also wanted to be able to contain the fumes and possibly vent them to a nearby window using foil dryer vent tubing and this seemed to be the ideal solution.
I used 1/2" foam sheets and aluminum tape. I used a discarded picture frame's acrylic for the door and a discarded scrap of paneling to make strips to fasten the door to.
It wasn't pretty but it did the trick. My bed now easily heats to 100C in about 15 minutes. However, 100C is too much for the ABS I am using but found that 96C is adequate. When the temperature of the room is about 22C and the humidity is around 35%, the interior of the box is around 39C near the top and with a 20% humidity reading.
Some tips: 1) Use a very sharp knife and try to get your cuts as straight as possible. The straighter they are, the better your box will hold heat however, the aluminum duct tape helps hold in the heat.
2) I ALMOST used thicker drywall anchors to help hold the pieces as screws are useless in styrofoam, but with the strategic use of tape, I didn't need them. I taped both inside and outside.
3) My foam sheets only had aluminum on one side and outside was the plastic covering. The aluminum tape doesn't stick to this stuff very well so I went over it again with Gorilla tape to keep it in place.
4) You don't need a tight seal on the bottom. My box sits on top of all the wires, which doesn't seem to be a problem. I put 1/4 hole about an inch above where it feeds into the unit. This might be a problem for taller prints. I don't know yet, but if it does, I may change this into a thin slit. But, tape the bottom, too to keep the foam sheets from shedding styrofoam granules.
5) Budget about $100 for everything. I needed two sheets of foam at about $15 each. My enclosure is 26" tall, 24" wide, and 28" deep.
I print ABS on the clear glass which comes with the printer, coated with a couple of layers of Elmer's glue stick which I put down about 10 prints ago. The prints are solid but pop right off when it cools down. I use Hatchbox ABS. Your results may vary.
super great video - guys! we just got our second cr10-s5 to print big parts with new bed heater, e3d all metal hotend and halogen lights (now very cheap - found the nasa paper on reworking a lulzbot, which we did for pc/peek printing)) - now doing it on our cr10 - really big parts - strong and little deformation under use (we build custom niche machines for research) - awesome program!
I watched all of your video which means I must have enjoyed it. Within the first few minutes you could see what the rest of the video was going to be like, no major surprises just two guys building a cheap enclosure. Well done, things don’t have to be perfect to be functional but boy you seem to have set the cat amongst the pigeons and receiving some harsh comments for you efforts. Keep up the good work your decisions on video content have got you to where you are today.
Stephen Berrisford à
Two of our favorite people yayy!! We used one of Katelyn's old nail polish bottles to make an ABS slurry bottle/applicator and it works great! Also accelerant smells like raspberries and it's toxicly delicious
what are you guys doing here
You mean what are they doing here 3 years ago?
@@3DPrintingNerd probably but the real question is what are they doing here 5 years ago?
@@menta1Most likely is just being freaking awesome, but that's only a guess.
I have been able to get my CR-10 beds up to 100C...slowly. Like 10 minutes. But I had to bump the voltage on the power supply to 13.0-13.5V and add EVA foam to the bottom of the bed to the bed.
Nice to see “professionals” making a really botched up ....stick it there and it will do.....sloppy job......same as I do!
If you attach a sheet of plumbers felt to the bottom of the bed with kapton tape around the edges you can get a stock CR-10 to 90, especially if you have it in an enclosure. :)
Loved every minute of this video. Just like Blue Peter when I was a kid without the perfect “here’s one we made earlier” reveal at the end.
How tall is Bill?
LACES OUT!!
Such a fun build to watch. HOT TIP!!! Since the CR10s (s4/s5) comes in a box with it's X-gantry already assembled if you use box's width dimension as the internal width dimension for the enclosure your Xgantry will have room to move (inside the enclosure).
I know a lot of people watching probably know but I think it would have been beneficial to those who don't to explain why ABS wants a consistent temperature and the Pros of printing with it in the middle section, that way we get helpful tips too!
Glass and masonry drill bits are great for drilling acrylics and other brittle plastics. Rotary ball files are good too.
that noise is awesome thanks
Also I am going to put a 115VAC heater bed. So I will be able to print ABS I saw you talked about a slurry, I will be looking for that video. The hot end thermister opened up and I will be replacing it to day too. Keep up the good videos.. Thanks
Glad to see I'm not the only person in the hardware store parking lot trying to shove way too much foam into a tiny car lol
hahahahaha
I will do it for my normal cr-10! Thank you for the idea!
I'm here because I want a 3D printer but don't know enough about them to just go buy one without researching it to some degree first... So I've watched several videos, beginning to feel a little less intimidated by the thought of the (to me) steep learning curve, and then I came across this. Imagine my surprise when they built the box inside out! lol
Thank you for an ENTERTAINING 32 minutes. Next time, more beer! I could watch you two all day... I'm trying to imagine how that Mark 3 build went 😀...
I'm going to do this but with interlocking exercise mats. Thanks for the video!!!
Fun to watch, but it would have been nice to see a few ABS prints before and after :D
This is some hill billy do it yourself-er and I love it xD. Once my CR10 comes in I'll get to building one of these. Great work guys!
I overvolted my cr-10 a bit (~14V)
that way i get the bed to 90°C without a problem. With insulation and / or an enclosure you can get it to 110°C without a problem that way :)
I love the large build volume, good print quality and low price. I also love the integrated electonics in a separate enclosure. I've thought about building a small print farm with 4-6 of these mounted next to each other on a wall with a heated enclosure surrounding them all and the electronics on a shelf underneath so they run cool for reliable operation and long life. Two pieces of compatible extruded aluminum could tie the tops and bottoms of all printers together to make them even more rigid.
The insulation will work far better if the metal coating is on the inside because it will reflect the heat back into the enclosure as the insulation is designed to work in this way for homes. Also, it can be a benefit if in really cold environments to use a small heater to blow warmer air into the box as well. however, it should not be needed if you make a base out of the foam to place the printer on as well to make sure the bottom is kept warm and cold out as well. the top of the box can just sit upon this so the top can still be removed for part removal.
At 29:02 - seeing via the clear door that they NEVER COVERED the huge slot in the left side!. Holy crap NO WONDER it never got warmer than it did. It lets most of the heat out the top of the slot and sucked cool air in from the bottom of the slot. That's like opening all the doors and windows in a house in winter and wondering why the house isn't warm enough! I've never made a printer enclosure, but I have made a foam "hot box"(well, warm box) for helping to cure composite epoxy/fiberglass covered foam wing cores more quickly (box roughly 48 long x 24 x 24, plenty of clearance insice). Made it out of blue foam, using two 100 W incandescent light bulbs at each end as a heat source and a 4" pancake fan to circulate the air to avoid hot spots/cool spots (covered the inside with sheets of aluminum foil after spraying some 3M77 adhesive inside, before adding the other parts inside). Anyway, I found that if there was just a 1/2" gap between the bottom of the box and the tabletop, that cost about 20 degrees F (120F vs 140F) from cooler air seeping in thru that gap. So I had to be sure it fit more flush. It would have been almost worthless if I had put a huge 4" wide slot in the side, all the way up.
Back to the point, they could have avoided that gap by not being so cheap, trying to use a single 4 x 8 sheet. If they'd used two sheets, they could have made it wide enough not to have the clearance problem (actually, at first I thought they would make a HUGE enclosure to hold everything inside, and have some practical (?) way to raise and lower it. But the heat inside would not be good for the printer's electronics box and power supply longevity). Anyway, that bug gap was not the only problem, there still would have been problems with the filament feed. They didn't have any good view AT ALL showing how the filament feed went thru for doing actual printing, or the other wiring for that matter, and nothing on how they sealed up that air gap (Indeed it was as though they went out of their way to avoid showing the left side of the box at 29 minutes in, but that was the most important area to show). I figure they didn't seal that either, since they didn't bother to seal the huge gap. I think his editor was able make a Burlap purse out of a sow's ear. :) It's like "we made a train wreck of a project, but we shot a lot of video, so let's post it anyway. Gloss over and not show all the mistakes, so others may make the same mistakes". I will say the plexiglass door with magnets was a nice touch, if I ever make one of these I probably will copy that, so there was some good from seeing this. BTW - for anyone who might make one of these (properly, no gaps/holes), consider adding white LED strips or some SAFE form of lighting inside to make the print progress (or problems) a lot easier to see.
In Germany one would say if a guest forgets to close the door "Habt ihr Säcke vor der Türe?" as "Are you having bags before the door?" Well as not having doors at all were the guest lives. Also it made me anxious laying down the baren acrylic and then dropping scratchy screws at it.
A nice side-effect of the foam enclosure would be sound absorption, making for quieter as well as warmer printing. No more god-awful motor whine.
PongoXBongo doesn’t a stepper motor damper kill most of the whine?
Yes. But some more bare-bones printers still make a ton of noise, which a padded/insulated enclosure could definitely help with.
Another plus is, of course, keeping most of the ABS fumes inside.
@@Spacekriek Where they could be safely vented out a window with some flexible dryer vent hosing (cheap enough at most hardware stores).
The cuts for your box and vents and other hand made wonkyness are killing my OCD
Nobody:
Joel: ohhhhhhh.
2 sec later
Joel: ohhhhhhhhh.
This is true!
Joel and Bill, making me feel much better about my Monoprice Maker Select! just kidding although in my cold garage I can hit 120C on the bed, with a beefy mosfet and direct power from the PSU.
I do find it entertaining when you and Bill get together as I’ve been listening to Bill since the Fitness Geek days and the two of you show that perfection is t needed 😉
First off. I looked into this last year and didn't do it because the foam boards shouldn't be heated because they'll out gas! Also they're flammable!
Why print ABS? There's better options.
If you do this please do it so the foil faces in. It might keep it from catching fire and might reduce out gassing.
If I were printing ABS once a month I would use this! We've all seen better but in a pinch this is good enough.
Thanks Joel! High five!
Did you force Bill to stand in a hole or are your heights just that different :)
Big gaping gash on the side means no need for a vent on the top!
You could put a bit of dryer vent hose in the side and add warm air with your heat gun. Might be able to keep the bed at a lower temp that way, but you'd need to watch the ambient inside and blow in some air from time to time.
Joeeeeeeel we love you, much love from Cape Town south Africa my dude
Watching this just hurts 😬
We all have those moments, thanks for sharing. Have a great night. God bless
Both my favorite youtube guys in one place? Sign me up!
28:52 HOLY, 16º Ambient, my Girlfriend starts putting on cold clothes at around 24º, and the guy is wearing a T-shirt.
Thank you for this Video I enjoyed it. I am going to build one of these. After reading the comets, I think I will put the shinny side in and paint the outside.
Insulate the bed, thicker wires, MOSFET module, and make your enclosure big enough to where you don't have to cut the side out...yeesh...
But the principle is sound :) good build video, also, put the shiny side in, it reflects heat better
That is a great idea for an insulation box that foam looks easy to work with.
The cr10 300 bed will reach 100 no problem without an enclosure, with a firmware change its a lot faster.
For the 400 500 beds you need to swap out to an a.c. silicone heated bed to get to thoes temps.
Petg is a good alternative to and on the larger printers.
You also need to swap out the bowden tune to a Capricorn if you want to print a lot of and on the stock head.
Tm m it can do but a small brim works well
What firmware change is needed? My Cr10s gets up to 90 in under 10 minutes. I'd love to get it a little faster.
B3D.Tech in use bang bang method for heating in my own firmwear build, this is for stock hot end cr10S only not cr10 you can see in the text notes all the changes i make
goo.gl/ZM1qDs
I got Capricorn with my order from tinymachines of my cr10s4, I love it to death, I should try it on my other printers and see if it helps
Would also love to know, what you have to change in the firmware :)
I get to 90°C without a problem with a bit over Voltage, but if i get it a bit higher it would be great :)
Did something even easier for my CR-10S than an enclosure. I used a heat lamp (one from my chicken coop) mounted on a stand to face the model as it prints and it works awesome and I can adjust the heat and it helps the bed stay warmer too. ABS prints great now.
3D printer “operator’s” want their prints perfect,
But when they make a enclosure that will be seen by all and someone’s first impression of a 3D printer when coming in house.... chuck it together, not even putting the door and vent straight !
That is literally a 2 min video, all that is missing is a hot glue gun 😂
Definitely useful to know you can build a lightweight enclosure. I hadn't thought about it myself, but that's a really good idea. Other than that I did consider the heated bed and all metal extruder for my printer needing at least a 24 volt power supply to heat faster for flexible materials and ABS printing. I was woried about ABS because of not having an enclosure and this is a great and pretty cheap solution. Thanks guys! Can't wait to get my Ender 3 ... next year ... budgets suck.
You can get a Mosfet that gives the bed more power and saves your board. I burned up my X3 board printing ABS, it too took FOREVER to get to temperature.
I should be editing... but no... I just spent 32 minutes and 16 seconds watching your video.... Curse you Joel!!
I didn't watch the last second :P
Oh, your were probably suffering from analysis paralysis anyway, so taking a half hour break might have just given you the inspiration to finish that next cut.
Fugatech 3D Printing well that is your problem know
And now Joel spends the next twelve years trying to clean up styrene balls from *everywhere*... and after that the CR10 might be up to temperature.
Nice Killer Instinct reference. Love it
I have a CR10s and it takes a few minutes to reach 70C though I never tried printing ABS so I didn't try higher bed temps.
Okay, love watching your videos, even this one, seriously. This is a great effort with many good ideas. However, I've learned a few things as I'm designing an enclosure for my S5...
1. When measuring, take into account the thickness of the material, and base them on the INSIDE of the enclosure.
2. Place things low with the side you're working on facing up (I know, you were working on the table so you could shoot the video).
3. Allow for more clearance on the left side for the cables and gantry to move freely.
4. I should install the foam with the foil on the inside (and lightly paint or cover the outside).
5. I should get larger magnets for the door.
Okay, I'm picking on you guys, especially because I would have probably made the same mistakes... but now that I've I watched this video, I'm sure it will go smoothly. ;-)
As for the bed heating issues, if you're printing ABS, you definitely need to upgrade the bed heating element. Mine can reach temperature in a couple of minutes (and it should as it was an expensive upgrade).
Great show ,enjoy your info. And humor. Throw me in for
3hours... 92 centigrade was the highest I got in my enclosure with stock heater mat ... upgraded to 220v 750w silicon Matt with relay control.. 100 centigrade bed temp within in 2 minutes...
Now the "2.0" version with internal lighting and print viewing camera for maximum thermal insulation.
You can control the bead heat whit only changing voltage to it if the heater will hundle the change and you can just have a sorce of power. External for the heater whit a variable power supply
Be careful about saying you can use this enclosure with “any printer”. I have a hitop I-3 and the printed parts were PLA. Didn’t know that until my son was printing in our garage during the hottest part of the summer and the PLA parts melted, dropping out the linear bearing and warping the extruder X guide. In Phoenix when it’s 115F outside, the garage can get even hotter and with the printer inside an enclosure I made it even worse.
The silver side of the insulation should have been towards the inside. The larger c-10s only have a 300x300 heat bed, which leads to poor heating. A standard size CR-10 will reach 90-100c if you insulate the bed.
Joe I loved watching two friends working on a fun project. It's nice to see some videos where creators do not take the project or themselves 100% seriously. I am sure some in the comments have hacked together some worse solution than you guys created.
You could probably use a bead of PL 300 adhesive on that foam and use the screws to hold it until cured. it would be rock solid after that. *edit I commented before I saw the part where you were using the foil tape. :P
What good is it.With that huge cut along the side of it.Most of the heat will escape.
Awesome video!! Made one my self for my Tevo Tornado, and it works great!
If only the 3D Printing Nerd could have found somebody to manufacture parts for his enclosure out of some sort of polymer.:)
While not a terribly technically proficient build it is a good demonstraion for people who are intersted in the basics. Plus There is an extension cable for the CR-10 that could allow your control box to be further away.
P.S Don't give in to the foil on the outside haters they have no sense of style. Bling is all important.
Love it when you two get together. Safe cutting!
just a thought, if make the X and E cable longer, you can cut a small hole on top and let the filament run from the top, and a small hole on the side for the cables to run to the top, at least in that way, you won't have such a big slot for the heated air to escape
Michael Ng but the filament has to go to all 4 corners! Wouldn't it make its own cuts through the foam eventually? What a mess that would be!
CR-10 is bowden type instead of direct drive, which means the extruder is at a fixed spot (XY, not Z), so the filament come from the top should make more sense imo, in this way you just need a small hole for it to go inside the box
If you change your power supply to a higher amp one you can up your temperature more.
I would add a Arduino with a temperature sensor and a servo control for the vent you could even add a fan or a heater on a relay to temperature control the ambient temperature of the printer.
13:38 May God Bless you and your family forever for saying CLEARANCE instead of TOLERANCE!!!!
I use a heat gun to help get the bed to 110c and the cr-10 maintains the temp. It sucks, but it works.
i know this is an effective enclosure. and its not the worst ive seen. but i feel proud of mine now. no offense guys it took me 3 days to finish it an i still have to put lights in it and im working on a arduino that will monitor the temp and display it on a lil screen and control an exhaust fan if the temps go to high. still havent got it "done" yet but i got my printers in it an running. and just as proof anything will help im using the amazon gift box my kingroon kp3 came in as its enclosure with a peace of plexiglass taped with the same aluminum tape they used on one side to act like hinges. ive posted pictures of all the enclosures ive made. i designed some brackets to hold 5 mm thick foam board with hinges an all that if anyone needs them, i can share them. ive just gotten to the point that i can use fusion 360 when design parts and the enclosure was the first project i made with it but it worked an only reason i stopped using it was cause i got new printers an need more room so i built one enclosure that holds 2 printers, my ender 5 and anet e10.
Use a hair dryer to introduce heat and a temperature gauge in order to regulate the hairdryer's current to maintain the temperature.
They obviously have deep backgrounds in construction and engineering... Fun vid though guys😊
Silver should be on the inside, it is designed to reflect light (including light in the IR frequency range).
And the screws and nuts should be reversed. The bolt should pass through the hindge into the foam.
20:19 the time Bill cosplayed as a print enclosure.
The main problem of the foam is: not fire proof and to light to insulate noise. It is just for temperature while a good enclosure has 2 important additional features:
-fire protection
-Noise reduction
Which material is fire proof? I hope you don't mean acrylic. The r factor on this polystyrene is good. How many printers have you had that caught on fire? If so, you need to maintain your equipment a little better. Maybe a smoke alarm mounted to the top of the box will make you feel better.
Great idea, You could put a servo motor on the vent with an Arduino Uno and a theracoupler to help maintain the heat, I'm sure not needed but...
Joel - I know people have been giving you a hard time for this video. I really enjoyed it though, this is definitely something that I would do. Then I would go back and rehash it and make it a little bit better... and again... and again... I digress, keep up the good work! *high five*
Didn't know there was such a huge difference between the CR-10 and the CR-10S. I can heat the bed on my CR-10S up to 80°C no problem without any enclosure in something like 8-10 minutes. I think the CR-10S bed is insulated though...could make a difference on yours Joel!
A little friendly tip about using a box cuter: DON'T expose too much of the blade so it'll be less prone to band and (therefor might) break. :D
For long straight cuts on thick foam you want a shallow angle like bill said though. Makes it easier to keep the cut straight.
That might be helpful but still dangerous. I'd prefer to use a shorter blade and cut from both sides or do the first cut with a short blade and for the second cut I'd elongate the blade.
please put an OCD warning on this video, it might save lives.
Oh you special little snowflake :D It´s a low cost enclosure not a full on designed product.
CDO.... Get it in order!!
Yeah... the crooked stuff drove me nuts
Please put an understatement warning on the above comment...
Do you know what OCD actually is? Maybe someone who is a perfectionist would have an issue with this video... It drives me crazy when someone who is anal or a perfectionist clams they have OCD.
It was much better than Cats! I'm going to watch this again and again and again.
You should cover the slots you guys cut into the side with the aluminum tape, that way the side of the printer has enough clearance and you can slide the enclosure off without it scraping the side. And you'd also be able to actually keep the heat from going out those huge slots. But otherwise it's a good build and I'd probably do something similar in the future