Saitek Pro Flight Yoke Dead Zone Fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- Saitek Pro Flight Yoke Dead Zone Issue Fix
A simple electronic fix for the Saitek Pro Flight Yoke dead zone. If your Yoke has a deadzone 5 degrees from centre on the roll and/or pitch axis, this is the fix.
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I just wanted to add my thank you to the list. 7 years later and this video fixed my dead zone issue. My flying is much more enjoyable now.
Amazing!!
I was a bit afraid of spending almost 50 euros with the module but I did and 6 years after this video were posted you have another happy viewer. Completely worth it, infinitely better. Next step rubber bands. Thank you so much!!!
Only remark that I have with the video is the usage of the saw. I dunno if the quality of the plastic decreased in the last years but I've used a manual saw to do the opening for the usb cable and it was fairly easy. With an electrical one ofc is even easier in terms of effort but the risk of letting the saw escape and permanently damage the yoke is bigger. But that's me.
I just did id today and the yoke is not the same, it is so much better, and no dead zone at all, a real pleasure to flight with, thanks a lot
I DID IT!!!!! I'm a complete idiot when it comes to these kind of things and your video walked me through perfectly!!!!! Thank you thank you thank you!!!!
This is probably the most complete, and in-depth video's I've ever seen. He did a great job. I ordered my BU unit an hour ago and will be following along again as I fix the 1 (huge but also minor) issue I have this this yoke.
Thanks for the fix and video. It is a shame that Saitek support has continued to deny this issue for years.
They have to leave some room for us old-school modders to figure things out... LOL
I'm so glad you made this video. The dead zone issue with this yoke along with the view controls and settings on FSX was so frustrating I had just given up on flight sims.
+LilJordanful thank you!
thank you for your detailed demonstration, I found it extremely helpful. I just ordered the parts and look forward to fixing this thing once and for all. Thanks again and take care!!
UPDATE: rec'd the parts in 2 days! UK to Canada, wow! I installed it today and I noticed that my pitch wires were backwards on the original pot so I simply followed the video and everything worked fine. Dont forget to assign flight controls once you open up MSFS 2020 otherwise it will still think the flight yoke is controlling these and you will have no response. You will see the BU0836A show up in the flightsim controls options. Believe me...I am no electronics wizard by any means so if I can do this anyone can.
The final result is a flight control that is WAY MORE REALISTIC!!!! what a difference. I now want to do circuits over and over again just because my landings are greasers...whoo-hooO!!!!
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO, I COULD NOT HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOUR GUIDENCE
The was my second move. My first move was to try and use an Arduino to do the job. I did succeed with the only issue being different sensitivities on the two axes. I did contact LB for some information, but that laughed at my request. So I bought the BU0836A, smooth sailing since.
I've never done anything like this before, but have, after watching your video ordered the things needed. Im in the U.K. and didn't think I'd be able to buy the parts .Im just going to take it slow and hope I don't mess it up. Thanks for a clear concise video.
Best video ever.. Will start right away tomorrow fixing mine. It drove me crazy today (just got mine 3 days ago).
+konturgestalter super! Post back your results :-)
Excellent solution, nicely presented! One small suggestion for a finishing touch: a rubber grommet around the USB cable where it slots into the case.
Thanks for the tip. I fitted a BU0836 today but I had problems with juddering aerofoils and reversed elevator. When I checked the original wiring I discovered that the pitch wires on the yoke pcb were wrong they had the red wire to ground and the black wire was 5v . The roll pottentiometer was wired correctly , so my advise is to ignore the original wires and follow the video . Also and this caused the juddering , my leads from the pots to the BU 0386 where too long. Keep them as short as possible it will prevent interference from being picked up.
Thanks man! I don't solder, so I went with a cut and splice. Worked like a champ
Thank you for the great fix. There is a simplified version of that fix: add a resistor e.g. 39k (I have 33k potentiometers) into the potentiometers positive supply wires. That will reduce the signal and the ADC/firmware does not apply that dead zone gap in that range. Of course one has to recalibrate after that and the resolution is reduced by 1 bit, but for me that works still very well.
I also removed just one of the two elevation centering springs and that gives a usable yoke for me.
Amazing! Thanks for sharing :-)
@@Mixturerich the video gave the necessary clue ("it's a firmware issue")
Glad people are stilling getting use of this video over 5 years later.
I can confirm this works. Ran a 39k resistor between each of the pots and the red wires. 10 minute fix and $0.10 worth of resistors!
@@wyatts Can I ask what exact resistor you used? Was it 1/2 watt? I took an electronics class a long time ago and don't remember much but would like to do this fix.
I just did this fix to an almost new yoke and wow for the first time ever I can land a sim like I can the real thing. One thing I did notice is the colour of the wires were different to that described in the video, check where the wires come out of the original board for correct colour. Also when finished ALL of your sim gear will need to be checked and deleted as I had a conflict between the new board and the old Saitek settings.. well done.....
Where did you got the new board? And i am a beginner in flight sims just got the yoke do you think i need to do this if i am a beginner. Do it feels extremely bad without these changes? As said i am a beginner dont know if its worth to do it.
@@skocngt7457 The board is from "Leo Bodnar.com" in the UK . and yes I believe that it will certainly help you when learning, especially when trying to land as the dead zone in the elevator is very bad and also the aileron has a similar dead band making it near impossible to control near the ground.
@@rodwright3271 Hi Rod im also in the UK can you please tell me which wires correspond to which connection as i have no idea. My wires are the same as your i believe
Great video.... maybe the worst audio I have ever heard... but content was right on point. Thank you
i just did this and it was very easy and fun! I am so so so very thankful for your informative video you are amazing!!! Happy flying everyone!
Thanks!
I was wondering how come those guys at Logitech don't solve the issue with their firmware since as you show, the potentiometers are doing their job nicely. Thank you for sharing this video!
I heard they said this dead zone is intentional.
Many thanks for a thorough and very understandable video. I bought the board and wires, and was anxious to get into the project. I finished after following instructions carefully. Unfortunately, when I reassembled the unit and reset it in my sim, everything worked with the yoke and quadrant, except the pitch and roll. I reopened the unit and examined the wiring and found all seemed to be in order. Stumped in Sunset Beach, NC.
+Mike Phipps hope you found the issue... could your add on board be defective?
Thanks for responding. I took on the fix because I have done a good bit of soldering through the years with my large model railroad. However, I must have crossed a wire or two and fried the board in the yoke assembly. In frustration, I ordered a new yoke and believe I will just have to be satisfied with the dead zone. I have no way to check whether the board itself is defective. Thanks again.
Oh man, thank you very much!! I hope to fix Logitech G PRO Flight Yoke System in this way. 🤜🤛
Another successful dead zone fix. Excellent detailed video.
Thank you very much for this video, the explanations are clear and above all: the result after the modification is spectacular, the controls respond much better which allows a much more precise piloting than without this small electronic card. I was a little afraid to invest but now I absolutely do not regret the price I bought it !!
Thank you!
Nice fix for the yoke. Yesterday after a new windows install i installed for the first time the official Saitek driver instead of use the windows 10 standard driver. Suddenly I had a massive deadzone on left aileron deflection. After deleting the software and drivers it was much better but regredly not deadzone free anymore. Weird behavior it is.
Just a simple tip for getting to your game controller window quicker just by running the built in program joy.cpl , on win 10, press window key and R. In the Run window that should appear type joy.cpl and that will bring up the game controller window where you can then select which device your checking. Great video but can I suggest the use of a grommet and use a round hole in the case or simply protect the wire from the casing by using fish tank tubing, about 6mm or a piece of fuel line as used on IC radio control models by cuting along the length of the tubing then fitting it around the edge of the hole plus another piece on the other half of the casing. On anything other than windows 10, just access the Run command. You can if you wish to, run it from a dos/cmd window. For anybody that has a switch that's not working on their yoke, and the switch itself is ok, use the 2 pin connections on the Leo Bodnar board that are mentioned in the video.
Looks like I finally know which yoke to buy and how to mod it to my liking! Thank you good Sir!
Awesome!
A very informative video! Just a simple question: Why not cut the USB output cable and solder the shortened USB wires to one of the spare USB's on the Saitek board? This would eliminate the need to cut a hole in the case. Any problems with this approach?
Can do that for sure. This was for simplicity, especially for those people who might be soldering for the first time.
@@Mixturerich Thanks for getting back so speedily. I'll probably do this when I install the new board. (I'll blank off the used USB with a spare socket protector.)
Dan , thank you so much for ever posting this video,I have applied your solution now on my Saitek yoke and it works great,I am curious how you ever got the idea to solve the problem like this.Whatever ,thanx again.
I have a minor background in electronics and wanted to solve this issue :-)
Just Ordered The Leo Bodnar BU0836A... slow shipping thou. So, I hope I can get it working like yours once I receive it.
Update 4-23-19, I installed mine already, worked perfectly. I also did the rubber band modifications.
Just installed my BU0836A. Thanks to Dan this upgrade makes Xplane 11 act like a real simulator. Since January I tried two Yokes from Saitek both had the problem, one on left roll and the other on right roll. Just be sure turn off the Yoke calibration in Xplane 11 so they don't fight each other. And watch the wire colors on your yoke. The new ones seem to change the colors on the pitch pot. Both of mine had the same color config Red, White, Black left to right.
Saitek is clearly in denial. The firmware or circuit board is consistently faulty.
I can actually land the airplane now.
This may be an old video butt I am using it for my yoke (new!) and while experiencing the same issues I ordered a Bodnar board. Now I am going to install it but beware, they seem to attach the wires randomly (maybe to ensure people destroying their boards and thus yokes so they can sell more?) and my wires for both potmeters are different, even from eachother! The potmeter is however the same so from left to right the same order as in the videos. Just keep in mind that the colors are different! I noticed it right away and unscrewed the board inside to look on the board and it is from top to bottom Voltage, Signal, Ground! So watch out and maybe the creator could mention it somewhere in the video?
i'm after some assistance. Total Newbie at this. I have modified my Yoke exactly as per your brilliant Video. However having connected everything correctly I am finding when I go into FSUIPC he values against the Pitch and Roll axis are constantly changing without me touching the Yoke. I am guessing I am getting interference, but as a total novice have no idea what to do. Ang suggestions would be appreciated.
same here..
Hi I did everything you said. I think 🤦and it's showing up in game controller settings but no movement did this ever happen to you. Great video. Thanks in advance
No, should work no issue. Check your hardware work.
I'm going to buy this board and fix that dead zone. Had my yoke for years, but it's been in a box. Question though, my yoke drifts to the right - after installing this new board, is there a way to calibrate a NEW "center" so it actually stays CENTER?
Excellent video. I will most certainly be moding my Saitek Yoke. Many thanks
Many thanks for this very good tutorial, i made the mod today and it worked like a charm, although it would be recommended to identify the different wiring colors beforehand, as the colors vary, mine where, black, yellow, red (from right to left) if i had blindly applied your color scheme i would have messed up ;) but that's just marginal to an otherwise excellent tutorial!!!! big cheers from france! Chris
Chris Mason good to note! Glad it worked out.
Dan, thanks so much for this video, the perfect video for even dummies like me!
I visited Leo Bodnar this morning (even got to meet the man himself!) and picked up the parts and had them installed in less than half an hour. The transformation is incredible.
Thanks again dude, you are a star!
Excellent video. Many thanks for identifying the real problem!
Thanks!
Thanks very much - Got it all going tonight and I cannot believe how much better the SIM Yolk performs. I am in my final stages of IFR training and should have done this a lot earlier. If you ever get Downunder look me up for a fly in my ARROW. cheers ROB
Hi Rob! Glad it all worked out! I will certainly look you up if I get downunder :-) Same goes if you come to the Great North's capital Ottawa. Flight in the Cherokee!
Great sharing, thank you very much. One question, I am about to buy one, and I wonder if Saitek did any changes after feedbacks from customers. Do you have any idea or some info about any improvement? (It'd be very nice if I can buy and start to use it without any modifications). Thanks! Flysafe.
+Hakan Ünal I have not heard of any improvements. If you get a new one and it works great out of the box, please post and let us know. Good luck!
i have a brand new one and it has a dead zone.
Hi quick question, I noticed you didn't use your roll spring. In a real plane does it have a return center point feel or is it just free to move? Are you using the rubber bands also for roll tension as well?
Thanks for the nice video! I have a question. If i pulg in to the usb port on the back side of sytec yoke, do I really need a additional power input to run? Or will it be Ok without the external power?
Thanks, Dan, for this detailed explanation. You have convinced me. I have a spare Pokeys55U which I think could do the job as it is seen as a joystick controller by FSUIPC.
I assume this fix could also get rid of the annoying Saitek issue whereby the roll axis center is off unless you fix the registry. Would you know if this is the case?
BTW, is that Rockcliffe by Ottawa?
Cheers,
Phil, CYUL
Salut Philippe, Glad people appreciate this video. If you have a spare Pokeys55U, you don't have anything to lose to use it. I looked at the specs and you should be fine. The registry fix is no longer required :-) All Saitek drivers are gone from the scenario, thankfully.
Yes, that is Rockcliffe, my home base. I fly out in a Piper Cherokee 180 that I part own.
cheers
Dan
Thanks for the video is there any Difference between bu0836A and BU0836 LC ??
Great video and tutorial!, thanks!
I live in Serbia and buying this breakboard would be a pain in the .... for me, so what do you think, can I use the electronic board from another joystick? I've got a few oldies laying in the drawer.
Thank you so much Dan for making this video showing how to overcome, what is a very annoying trait on a lot of Saitek Yokes, Really we should not resort to such 'fixes' for although the saitek yoke is not as expensive as the premium yokes out there, At over a £100 here in the UK, it certainly is not cheap either! I suspect it is from Saitek using the absolute cheapest parts they could find to up the profit margin...Counter productive, so much so that when the new Honeycomb yokes and throttles come out for sale, a unit reputed to be made with high quality potentiometers etc, Saitek will be hard pushed to compete...unless Logitech, the new owners of the Saitek brand, decide to 'up the spec'? I would be surprised if they did not as Logitech has a good name for it's products, e.g. their 'Sim' racing car steering wheels etc. Anyway I digress, I have followed your instructions to the letter and ordered my Leo bodnar USB input board which arrived the next day! (Did not realise they were a UK firm?) and now my yoke has no dead zones at all! However, I now have to address the annoying 'detent', a result of ' too heavy springs?' I have seen several methods of addressing this problem here on you tube. I wonder what is your opinion on this? Do you recommend one way over the other? Once again THANKYOU DAN!
Christopher Crosby go for the elastics bands. Works great.
I will eventually do this also, but plan on running a cable out of the Yoke and keep the board outside the yoke so that I can easily use the rest of the inputs on the board for additional switches or potentiometers or rotary encoders.
+Gary V excellent option!
Nice bro what sim you using? I use logitek flight and saitek pedals in I'm on prepar3d I use Fsuicp to calibrate axis and other functions I have no deadzone at all however since going to prepar I'm having noise on my axis but not in fsx I think it may be the different version of fsuicp one thing I learned is calibration when I calibrate my axis in spad next I notice lot of deadzone
Thanks for the video. My Saitek pro flight yoke has died on me with no power to the ICB so i'm going to try and replace it. They may refuse to replace the yoke so is it possible to use the bodnar board to completely take over from the Saitek ICB? I want the hat switch, the three switches and the push button.
I don't think the Bodnar board will handle the buttons.
I used rubber bands to fix my Saitek yoke and the rubber bands are positioned differently than the elastic bands shown in this video. But I wasn’t aware that there was also a third party joystick board. I might buy it.
Hello, excellent tutorial, my problem with the yoke is that it has been a while without flying, I have updated all the drives and when connecting it through the USB the yoke does not turn on. what do you think is the problem and if you can help me thanks
Just did this mod last night.. So much better! Thanks for the great tutorial!
I had a few issues getting it to work with MSFS2020 and after googling it appears others are too so I hope this helps.. To start with I got no response, I think it was still using the original controller input in game. I altered my settings, cleared the original settings from the saitek controller and mapped the left turn of the yoke on the new controller to aileron left (roll left) and vice versa for right, this is wrong, this acts like a button and it's either completely on or off. You need to map the aileron axis and pitch axis in game and then it works perfectly.
Can't believe what a difference this controller makes! Also can't believe saitek haven't sorted it, the colour of my wires were different to your tutorial so they've obviously changed something, clearly not the part that reads the potentiometers though.
@Bubble Music Hmm.. I never had an issue with a question mark on the interface so I'm not really sure what could be causing that. Might be worth uninstalling the BU0836A from device manager then plugging it in again to reinstall.
If it solves the question mark problem then you just need to find the aileron axis and pitch axis in the flight controls section of that interface, click to set the input and turn/push or pull your yoke to register it.
lalix did you have any problems binding the buttons in fs 2020? im not able to bind any of the buttons any solutions anyone?
Hi, will that fix a problem with the aircraft rolling to the left when the yoke is in the neutral position? I have tried calibratiing mine but the problem still exists. Thank you for your reply!
Great video! Will try this soon. Just one question, what configuration do you use with the rubber bands to give a good and smooth feedback of the elevator and ailerons axes??? Thank you in advance!
If you mean configuration in software, I have added a small deadzone on the pitch axis. This is helpful to me. If I misunderstood your question, just clarify for me what you mean by configuration.
Great video! Very straightforward and you made me giggle every time you said Potentio Meter! :-)
whats the name of the adapter you have plugged into the bodnar board?
I just did your fix and i thank you very much, it's perfect !
Super!
Sir what is the name of that joystick board? What company?
nice how to. thanks. one question. can you simply loop the usb of the bodnar board to the built in usb hub of the yoke? in this case you will just have one usb calbe from the yoke to the PC. if so, i guess you have to connect an external power source in order to power the internal usb hub.
Amazing manual! Thank you so much!
Hi great video can you tell what the blue tube you are holding in your left hand pleaseRegardsRoyann
+Roy Hayday that's a solder remover. Works with suction. Not necessary for this project.
I would like to see a video on how you configured the new BU0836A with FSX/P3D or especially with FSUIPC. I am not geting full range of motion with my yoke.
Hey! Nice video! But what do you have to buy together with the Controller? You need any aditional cables? Thanks in advance, have a nice christmas time :)
+Fluotin you can buy the three pin cables from the Leo Bodnar site as well. They are very inexpensive.
i watched your video where you fixed the dead zone on the yoke and i wont be able to fix it myself so do you have any suggestions for me to get it fixed
Hi!! Great video! Thanks 4 sharing... I've a question: I've done the "Zip ties and rubber bands" mod (it looks like you did the same). Though the pitch re-centers quite well it's not perfectly precise. Will I need to set up a small deadzone with the Leo Bodnar card? AFAIK real world yokes, both axis return to center when pressure is released. Thanks in advance.
Adding a deadzone is simply a matter of choice. Try it with and without and see what your preference is. I added a small deadzone personally.
Thank you!!!
Hi! I've done the mod and it's fantastic!!! Problem is I have to set quite a big (0.075) deadzone for pitch, because it doesn't center very well by itself (spring mod). Could you please give me an advice? Thanks!
question for you Dan. first though i love what you did here with that board. very simple, easy fix with an incredibly functional purpose. my question though, since you have the siatek/logitech yoke, is... everyone seems to be putting rubber bands in their yokes in different configurations to combat the "sticking" from all the detents, if you will. what bothers me with the yoke is that it centers itself on roll. pitch is okay but in a real aircraft, the yoke will not center itself when rotated left or right to my knowledge. Is there a way to get rid of the roll centering but keep the pitch centering??
Thanks for the like. If you don't want roll to center, just remove the springs and/or rubber bands. However, in a real aircraft, aerodynamically, your yoke will want to center. The yoke is actually simulating reality more or less. The rubber band fix was to get rid of the detente for smoother transitions through roll and pitch.
ok, then i guess i have misunderstood, or viewed, as i've saw the yoke stay off to one side. but ill keep it then if its realistic. but back to the deadzone fix if you dont mind, what would it entail to solder the potentiometer straight to the internals instead of having a wire run out the back and an extra plug. Im really being picky at this point but i thought it was worth asking. i downloaded the latest software and drivers for the yoke, which logitech said would fix the deadzone but unless i did something wrong, it did not completely...
Thanks for the video! I do have a question however. On your yoke, looking at the pitch potentiometer, your wire colors are yellow, red, black (from right to left). But on my yoke, mine are black, yellow, red (from right to left). Will the yellow wire always be +5v regardless of what position it's in?
That's a good question, I am not sure. I would suggest getting a multi-meter and testing the voltage on that yellow wire to see. Let us know your results!
I not been able to find sources to purchase this board. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hello sir, are there other equivalent products to that leo bodnar board because it seems like i wont be able to find it here in Turkey?
Great video! Sadly, in my haste, I plugged in a 5 VDC power source with the plug set to reverse polarity (don't know why I set it up that way, or for what project....). Fried the Saitek Yoke power supply (I assume they take 5 VDC and regulate it down to 3.3 VDC). The question I have for you is, will can the 0836 board accommodate all switches and pots from the yoke and quadrant? I suppose if not, two 0836 boards could be used. Thanks again for the very important tips on the 0836 board! I've been thinking about doing this with an Arduino, but this solution seems much better.....
Ron Novak Excuse me, sir. what type of arduino board should it use? I don't really understand about type and model. Thank you!
You should be able to use the BU-0836A board to replace all your Saitek Yoke functions.
It has 8 analog inputs,32 button / 16 rotary encoder inputs8-way "point-of-view" hat switch input
Caballeros
I did my first tests with an Arduino Leonardo. Using a software library from M Hieronimus called ArduinoJoystickLibrary. It is in GitHub. I modified one of his examples to do analog reads. Bothe Leonardo and Micro are capable of being used as game controllers by Windows-based computers.
BTW, from Amazon, the Leonardo I bought was $10! You will need to use a port expander since all Arduinos are port line limited but the package will probably cost less than a BU-0836A. You will need to program the Leonardo and interface the components. In that the BU-0836A is a simpler solution. (I bought one of those too, took two weeks to get to me, had the Amazon order in two days...)
Ron Novak Thanks for your information, Sir. What if I use Teensy 3.5 or 3.6? I look at the specs, comparing to BU-0836A, It has more analog input with 13-bits resolution (as I know that more bits means more precision)
MixtureRich went as far as showing that the device is recognized by Windows 10. Are there any further steps to integrate it with X-Plane? Thx.
Hello Dan!
Congrats on the video. and by the instructions.
Dear friend, maybe you can help me with a problem I'm facing in my Flight yoke system. It is calibrated at:
(X-plane 11, 12, and MSFS 2020), and has the following issue:
when making the movements (aileron and elevator) in the yoke, it does not make the movements in the aircraft, so I remove the USB connection and put it back, at that moment it is normal, but a few seconds later it doesn't work again, I remove it and put it back in the USB, it works again but after a few seconds it falls again, including the display lighting is not lighting up, it works is only the lighting. if you can help me, thank you.
Sorry to consult you here.
abs
Eduardo - from Brazil
Wish I could help but it would very hard to guess the issue.
Hi Dan, I just wanted to ask how this mod is doing. Is it still working for you? Any unexpected quirks? Thanks and fantastic video!!
Still working great, no issues! Thanks :-)
Hi Dan, I installed the new board as your video, and plugged the usb from the board into a free usb port on the back of the yoke. I have a problem with my set up, I tested it in "Devices" in my PC. the new board seems to operate as it should, but I get nothing from the yoke set up. I also tried it in XPlane , but no movement from the control surfaces at all As if the board is not communicating with the yoke . What am I missing?
Will you add the link to the wire you purchased as well? And THANK YOU for the video!!
+Adam Carson the wire is available on the leobodnar site.
so What its name to search in the site.
@@mehmetozel4780Are you find name of this wire? Say please
looking for a yoke to buy before the upcoming MFS 2020 I wonder between this one and honeycomb.
I'm waiting for Logitech to update the Saitek Pro to version II. If that doesn't happen this year, I'm going to buy the Honeycomb.
Does anybody know if this is still a problem, here in 2020? Does the Logitech G Saitek Pro Flight Yoke still have that deadzone problem?
@@FLVinge Some of them have some not it depends if you're lucky but I know how to reduce that dead zone to basically 0 without any modding like he shows in this video.( all you need is to initiate a factory recalibration mode)
@@Voltomess Ahh thanks. Factory recalibration mode , I remember to have done that ones many years ago to a wheel I got.
@@FLVinge yeah just type it in youtube there is one guy who shows exactly how to do that and everyone is so happy because it works like a charm.
No hardware changes--the deadzone is fixed! I had the same problem, but after installing the driver/software released June 22nd, 2017 it works great! Here's the link to the Yoke update, and there's also an update for the rudder pedals as well (though they've always worked well): support.logitech.com/en_us/product/flight-sim-yoke-system/downloads
so there is no dead-zone anymore ? have you tested it thoroughly ??
greeksalad84 I flew one loop with the brand new yoke straight from Logitech and hated it. So before I bought this part and complained to Logitech, I figured I'd better see if they had an updated driver or maybe a flashable executable. I saw the recent driver + software combo, installed it, restarted, re-calibrated X-plane 11, and wah-bam! Now it flies without a dead zone and I can zoom in on my Cessna's wing and see the subtle movements responding as soon as I start to turn the yoke.
UPDATE: A Logitech rep said "There are very slight deadzones built into the yoke, and you should be able to configure deadzones within the software." After flying a second time (without configuring the dead zones like the rep mentioned), I re-tested everything, and I can notice a very tiny dead zone right around all the centers; but, it's negligible and almost seems non-existent sometimes. I might mess with the Saitek/Logitech software settings sometime, but it's pretty darn good at its default settings.
I'm on the latest Windows 10 64-bit OS.
You should have purchased a CH Yoke instead. People have nothing but good things to say about CH products. The Saitek brand has been tarnished and all faith is lost in the name despite being taken over by Logitech.
Will have to check that out, thanks.
@Adam Carson , you must have good luck then because i installed the software and drivers but there is still a deadzone. perhaps i did something wrong but i followed instructions. did you change any settings in the profiler? any sensitivity settings or anything like that?
Thanks for the video! I got one question. After the mod, when I roll to the right, the axis goes to the left and vide versa, not sure how to fix it 😭
Flip your wires on the potentiometer or flip the axis in software. Either choice will work.
@@Mixturerich got it, tq!
OMG! Thanks! I was about to curse at the guy who sold me the yoke.
I am looking for a way to add feedback to the pitch of my Logitech Pro Flight Yoke. I am thinking of using a servo that will move the yoke shaft in and out as the aileron changes in flight either due to trimming or the aerodynamic force of wind affecting the aileron of the plane in flight. But first I need to know if there's a way to get the raw data from Microsoft Flight Sim 2020 and connect that to what I imagine would be a small control board such as an Arduino and that connected to the servo. Can you help me get started in any way?
Sadly I know nothing about arduino or force feedback.
Hi, I just made this modification and it works fantastic, only problem I have I cannot setup the buttons anymore. I have in Win10 devices still the Saitek Yoke (buttons are recongnised) and of course the new controller which I just instralled (no Bottons to set up) is there a possibility to merge the two controllers so I can use again the bottons of my Yoke??
Problem solved!!
Hello, what did you do to fix the problem, please ?
hello, I performed the installation as you explained and everything is correct for windows in terms of calibration. but when i look at the flight yoke game controller the x and y axis still moves there is like interference when i move the wires i cut to make the modification. thanks in advance
Disable the x y axis coming from saitek. Only use the x y axis coming from the bodnar board.
Excellent video tutorial, but, the dead zone could be fixed or at least minimized with FSUIPC (I have FS2004 with registered FSUIPC3)?
thanks
Does the controller work with MSFS 2020?
Hello! I connect the USB port included in the joke, a keyboard, a mouse, and another saitek quadrant of gases.
The USB cable that comes out of the joke, I connect it to a USB supply power.
Do you think my settings are correct?
Thank you very much
I installed the fix as you described but now my simulator see two yokes. Where did i go wrong?
As far as I can tell, that's how it is supposed to work. The board _is the new device_ - just without all the potentiometers and other hardware installed.
So I did this and it works very well, but there is a glitch when I plus the throttle quad back in because it connects to the original green board. Because of this, the old cords that got soldered turn on and cause the glitch. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do?
I'm wondering, if you have the yoke with the throttle module, couldnt you swap one of the throttles for the axis and vice versa? Then you would have still a bit of a deadzone on the throttles but would save on buying another board.... and of course you would have to run 12 wires back and for the swap
I suppose you could try. I think it would be more time and effort compared to the price of the board.
I’m about to buy the Logitech flight yoke, does this issue still happen with the new units?
Yes I think so.
Thanks for a very interesting video. If I didn't have five thumbs per hand it would be something that I could tackle. As it is I think I will just keep eying the x55!
I have just carried out the mods according to your video.
The pitch appears to be reversed push the yoke to descend the plane climbs and the plane go's up when the yoke is pushed down. I did find however that the grd and red on the on the pitch sensor were opposite yours on the video. I connected the these coloured wires as I found them.
Can I reverse these connections, if so what will happen?. I will reconnect the the original wires in the meantime hopefully you can give me an answer to this.
If they are reversed all you need to do is swap the outer two wires round on the potentiometer leaving the middle one in place. This will solve your problem. So if you soldered red to the left and black to the right, then swap these round so red is on the right and black is on the left.
My Pro flight Yoke looks like it somehow got fried the other day!??
I have the X And Y axis controlled by a BUO836X card so they still work.
I already had the extra set of Saitek throttles therefore I bought another set to replace the set that went with the yoke.
Now all that I am missing is the 8 buttons from the fried yoke!
Do you know if the buttons belonging to the yoke can be wired into Leo's card?
Where could I get info on sorting out the large amount of wires that control the switches?
Yes, you can use the remaining button positions on the BU0836X card to hook up your Saitek buttons. To figure out which one does what, you'll need a multi-tester. You can also disassemble the yoke handle and follow the wires and note the colors.
Hi Roger, did you switch the handle switches from the Saitek electronic board to the Leo Bodnar board already? I want to do the same due to the fact that some wires broke at the place where they were soldered onto the Saitek board. Because there is no schema available I do not know where I must resolder the wires.
Sir what is that joy stick boar? Vu086??
Maybe, is it possible, to connect the rudder with the mod-board - there is also a dead-zone-issue - with a extra cable -
-- Thanks for the video -- Greetings from the Netherlands --
+- FreeSpirit - yes you can definitely do that! Follow the same logic :-) ! succes!
Anyone know of a different board I can get? This one is in 70$ Canadian. Not sure what to get on amazon. Thanks
I hate to keep bothering you but here is the scererio when i plug in the board it says "multiple axes assigned to pitch". the other wires are unhooked and not touching. by passing the board and putting back to normal, all works fine
I wish I could help more. If this were in front of me, I could poke at it. Very difficult to diagnose this without seeing it. The Bodnar board should work straight out of the box, no configuration is required. Unplug the potentiometers from the Bodnar board and plug into usb with nothing connected. See what happens. If you want to continue chat, connect with me on my Facebook page and start a messenger chat.
@@Mixturerich thank you so much this is frustrating
Hi Dan. I have question I build my own yoke and it's 90 degree left and right, the problem I am facing is that when I turn my yoke ( pot) left or right to 70 degree the FSX yoke turn 90 degree and didn't giving me realistic movement or fallow my yoke movement ! I use BU0836XAnd I use the FSX plug in joystick calibration but even on window joystick setup on the control panel if I try to calibrate the yoke again the dot move to the both side of the box befor I complete my turn on my yoke
Thank you for any help
Lower sensitivity on the axis within flight simulator or try using FSUIPC to calibrate. I am pretty sure you can set a specific left and right position and with FSUIPC you can play with the slope.
Thank you for the quick replay, I do use FSUIPC and that never help !!
I have limited numbers left and right and the sim read both top numbers when I go 70% left or right!!
It's look like the Fsx design like that so that people with 70% yoke travels can reach the 100% when they move the yoke 70%
Hi, I am actually not sure why it is doing that. It should not at all... My conclusion would be that your potentiometers in your yoke reach 100% at the 70% rotation point.
great video mate Thanks
If you do that mod, do the drivers included by Logitech still work? And also can you still use the USB port and the throttle quadrant included?
Everyhing from the Saitek yoke still works as it did before the mod. Only problem I had in X-Plane, was I needed to turn off the outputs from the Saitek pitch/roll module In the setup window. If you don't, it will try to assign those outputs to random functions and render them inoperative. Simply switch them to "none". Also wiring to the pots aren't critical except the signal wire MUST be on the center lug. If they work backwards, just reverse the throw in the setup menu. This is well worth the time and money and with the rubber band mods on the yoke, its as smooth as glass. Be sure to check the yoke is not binding as you put the screws back in. I did with each screw. The first time I put them all in and it was sticking. Enjoy !
Is it possible to change saitek Potentiometer to high accuracy hall-effect rotary SENSOR to improve the deadzone ?
yes, but it involves custom mounting, specialized boards, and programming. trust me its way more work than its worth. just buy a better potemtiometer and adjust the mounting system and so the yoke goes a full 90 degrees in each direction as it would be easier and potentiometers are very easy to replace.
Thanks for this video! I did the mod today and I have two little issues... the card is disconnecting from the pc after 5 minutes and the calibration of the pitch is not good, in position zero the card says it is up, slightly but enough to be a problem, does anyone had the same issues? and do you have a solution to share? :) thanks
Check power management of usb ports.
I want to validate your observations on the core deadzone problem. I have several thousand hours of light aircraft time, zero sim time, and am trying to figure out if sims are realistic enough to interest me in spending whatever it takes to get one that "flys like a real light airplane". The deadzone was driving me crazy on final lurching from one side of the runway to the other. I assumed the problem was me. Then I measured deadzones in the realworld.
NULL ZONE / DEADSPOT
1977 Piper Warrior
Yoke movement before aileron moves: 3 mm
Yoke movement before elevator moves: 2 mm
2016 Toyota Corolla
Steering wheel movement before tire moves: 2 mm
Saitek Pro Flight Yoke with X-Plane 11.30
Yoke movement before horizon rolls: 15 mm
Yoke movement before horizon pitches: 26 mm
The surprise was my Toyota. Watch how little your steering wheel moves to stay in your lane the next time you are driving on a highway.
The Saitek yoke is 5-10 times worse that real airplanes or cars. Add in those bizarro (to a real pilot) springs and it is frustrating !!!
I went to the "rent-a-sim" area at the Hiller Flight Museum in San Carlos, California, and watched the experienced simmers land light planes. They landed somewhere on the runway, not on the centerline. And had developed the (necessary) habit of jerking the yoke around to get to the edge of the deadzone. My mouth dropped, imagining what results that would produce in a real airplane.
Essentially, these experienced simmers-only, not pilots had learned to drive a 1953 Ford with 2 inches of play in the steering wheel and no shock absorbers !!
I bought a VKB Gladiator stick reviewed as "the best". Reduced the deadzone down to" only" 2-3 times worse than a Toyota. I really admire your ingenuity and skill with your Saitek mod, but I am only willing to deal with "plug-and-play" . I am not a computer hobbyist, and am not willing to become one just to be able to have a sim that "flys VFR like a real airplane"
FINALLY MY QUESTION:
Is having a plug-and-play sim yoke/stick that I can VFR hold the centerline and the VASI with fingertip pressure (like real airplanes.....and Toyotas !!) simply unavailable at any price? I am happy to pay for a Yoko or other pricey control stick....PROVIDED I can get a review from a real airplane pilot who says "yes, absolutely. you can fly it with your fingertips and make those tiny little instinctual-muscle-memory corrections....exactly as you can on a real airplane. And you are not fighting against those like-nothing-in-reality centering springs."
Sadly, at this point I have tenatively concluded that there is visual flight sim world, and there is visual flight airplane world, and that they are so different that I would not want to destroy my decades-worth of expensively-gained real airplane instincts with simming..(until I lose my medical and can no longer enter a real cockpit...then destruction of my skills no longer matters)
I'm an instrument rated pilot. This repair is overkill. There is no reason to rip out the guts of the yoke. The original design is actually good. But, they used springs that are too heavy. I bought replacements a Lowes (pitch detent bothered me more than roll). I put a very light spring in to replace the pitch spring and it feels great. Very little force required to move the control. The hard detent disappeared. The null zone issue (with my yoke at least) was solved by adjusting the potentiometers. Mine were WAY out of adjustment. Couldn't shoot a precision approach with the thing. Now it's much better. I can now go to chase plane view and see my controls move with small (still a little larger than a real plane) inputs.
sorry i see it is not an adapter but what type of cable is it?
USB