I've spent ages on my beloved TH-cam looking for info on my faulty system so thanks again for a brilliantly produced video. You're very knowledgeable and good at presenting!👍
We're quite happy with our thermostat in the hall, when we're active during the day we use it to switch the heating on and off depending what we're doing, it would be a nuisance having to go into the sitting room (and we'd have to take outdoor shoes off). In the evening the hall thermostat sits at 12-13 and the living room is just right. If it gets too hot in the sitting room we go into the hall and turn it down. Can't see your problem with thermostats in halls really.
Dear Andrew, Thanks for the comment, as you see on the box, the firm calls it a ROOM stat, install instructions show a LOUNGE, not a hall. Please ask your installer why they ignored this and canceled your guarantee. As we sit in the lounge for 5 hours most of us want the stat there not in a cold hall. As you point out that 247 your system overheats and you over pay, most people find that expensive. Hope that helps, George Staszak. 👍😍
Well it never overheats George as we have it set between 12 and 15, and it goes off overnight on the timer at nine pm until 8 am anyway, tbh our heating is hardly ever on ;) If we want the living room to be, say 18, we just set the thermostat in the hall to about 15, works fine. We have to go into the hall to go to the loo or whatever anyway so it's zero inconvenience to adjust it. If someone had put our stat in the living room I'd move it to the hall ;))
In my new place I have an old Drayton thermostat unlike a digital one. Not sure what settings to put to optimise usage. Note 'timed' setting is there in boiler settings
Dear Anujit, thanks for asking, room stats should be 18c over night or when you go out, when you are home 20 21 22c which is most comfortable for you. Please remember ALL stats will over shoot the target temp. set by 2 to 6 degrees to stop the boiler (hunting) going ON and OFF lots of times per hour which will damage and wear it out. Please find my VID how to test a stat. Hope that helps, George 👍
Hello there, I have the same set up that you show with the Honeywell thermostat with the wheel and the ST9100C. I want to replace with a smart system, if I choose the Honeywell T6 Wired smart, I need to put the thermostat with the display instead of the one with the wheel and the receiver box instead of the ST9100C module correct? Thank you for your answer.
Hi Stefano, thanks for asking, No the wheel is too old, replace with Drayton RF 902 2 channel about £117 from Toolstation, this will save you money and easy to use Take care, George Staszak, next week I will have a video on changing rubbish Combi controls system to to RF901 single channel, just what you need except one channel. 🤩👍
Thanks for this helpful video but in the places (8 mins 35 seconds onwards) where you talk about the blue wire, we can't see the wiring mistake you are referring to in the video and the discussion about the blue wire is not clear. Could you please show the wiring of the old thermostat that has been done incorrectly and the new correct way for a digital thermostat. I have just installed a digital one(Siemens RDH100) and I used only the yellow and red cable because those were used in the old Honeywell I was replacing. The blue wire was already cut off but not sleeved or taped up. I replaced the Honeywell because I was suspicious that it was not turning the heating off in time. So potentially overshooting and strangely it was also not turning on the heating early enough either.
Dear AR, thanks for asking, I have lots of drawings in other vids APPs and book, that shows what you are asking. The old 230vAC room stat has to have 3 wires, the neutral we don't need in digital stats so we make it safe and use the other two as they are Com and SW.L. Hope that helps, George 👍
@@mrcombiBedford Thank you very much George. I managed to get the thermostat installed using the 2 wires. I am experiencing that under the stairs location problem though. Even in June, the temperature under the stairs is dropping to 18 degrees, causing the heating to turn on. I think I need to configure it for a 2 degree differential so that it only switches the heating on when there is a 2 degrees difference. Thanks again.
Thanks for asking the blue wire is with the black wire that’s wrong All the blue wires should be together and never with others Hope that explains George
You need to install the room thermostat in a room where it can get feedback from the heater it is controlling; so for central heating where it's controlling the boiler / pump / Zone valve there must be a suitably sized central heating radiator in the same room as the Room thermostat. This is usually the problem with the room thermostat being installed in the Hall. Traditional mains Voltage room thermostats can control within 1 degree C as long as the Anticipator Heater is connected correctly to Neutral so that it has 230 V across it when the thermostat is calling for heat (Anticipator heater is wired internally within the thermostat to be energised when the thermostat calls for heat). This ensures the Thermostat warms up approximately as quickly as a typical room would be expected to. N.B. I have a Honeywell T6060B room thermostat with Anticipator heater that still controls accurately although it is now a little over 40 years old.
Can you tell me if the upgrade Honeywell digital thermostat you show to replace the old analog Honeywell thermostat if it will work on 3 wire setup ?? As in your vid l see 4wires from the old thermostat?? If so which way is it wired please or do l need a different Honeywell thermostat?? Mac
Hi James, thanks for asking, all digital stats only need 2 wires, Com the wire from the programmer and SW.L switched live (combi) either to the CH Com or a motorised valve (white mid poz. or brown if zone) to move the motor. The old stat would have 4: E / N / Com / SW.L. Digital only need 2 as above, make safe the others. I am doing a video soon about Analog to RF which has a bit in this video. Honeywell now RESIDEO have just launched a new range buy that stat. Hope that helps, George staszak 😀👍
I've got a portable thermostat which i inherited from the previous owners. I hate it. I want the old simple dial thermostat which i can click off easilly. They seem to have a life of their own and even though the heating is set to go off at 9pm and come on at 5am, it just randomly turns itself on at 3am. It drives me mad. Why does it do it? Also, as its portable, where should i put it? There are 2 radiators in my lounge, one in each bedroom (2 bed), and one in the hall. Thank you!
Dear Emily, Thanks for asking, what I am hearing from you is change the colour TV for a B&W. because life was better in the old days??? As I have said in many vids. if you can hear a 'click' that is an old bad stat designed in the 60's, overshoots up to 4c VERY expensive stat ever made. All you need to do is recycle the batteries, and fit ALKALINE. A lot of stats / programmers have a Reset button to wipe the old settings to restore to factory mode. NOW you can put YOUR settings in. Best advice is copy me, put the time to ON or Constant, use the stat as required, minimum lounge 18c max 22c Frost is 10c. that is the setting for the lowest bills. Location: on a table, lounge coffee table, dining table or bedside table, RF is the best way to control the heating. just turn temp. up / down. hop that helps, regards, George staszak. 🤩👍
Thanks for asking, any make Danfoss Drayton or H Home, because you have to remove the connections at the wiring centre (power OFF) also at the stat remove unit. Now just connect the RECEIVER to W Centre. Please note this job can only be done by a Gas Safe or electrician who has done a control wiring course. hope that helps, George Staszak 👍
Hi George. Just sidetracking slightly but I have a customer who upgraded their Landis & Gyr roomstat to an RF EPH stat but didn't want the old stat removed. The installer set the old stat to max and told them not to use it but use new RF stat. This is correct as far as I'm aware but I think they have been moving stat probably due to habit. So, going to link wires behind stat just wanted to confirm which ones to link out. Thanks
Dear Gas NW, Thanks for asking, yes you are correct the old stat MUST be disconnected, I understand they don't want to remove the old one before decorating. Power OFF and remove the wires from the boiler end and make safe (don't cut them OFF, someone may want to reconnect them later). Hope that helps, George Staszak 🤩👍
@@mrcombiBedford Hi George. Many thanks for the information. Its an old heat only boiler so will I need to put a link back in on the boiler end so that the EPH twin channel programmer controls the switch live to the boiler? Thanks
The blue conductor has a yellow or black to indicate line or switched voltage - in a three wire setup? Can I kindly ask where this is stated in the regulations or any codes or is it actually even stated in UK version of boiler installation manuals? Cheers
Hi Bari, thanks for asking, if a blue wire has voltage it MUST be sleeved to show current, must installers don't bother, these Codes of Practice are found in Building Control we get from either Viper or NICEIC publications, hope that helps, George Staszak 👍
@@mrcombiBedford cheers for the update. I was under the impression the sleeving colours should ideally be BROWN to indicate that it is a Switched Live - but it can also be Yellow or Black to indicate switched live?
I opened my honeywell analogue stat (in the hall) and it has 1 green wire and 1 black wire only. The green wire goes to No.3 on the backplate, whilst the black wire goes to No.1. I thought live is supposed to be red? So has this been wired totally wrong, by using earth and no live wire? And if so how do I put it right? BTW It is veryold.
Hi, thanks for asking, T1 is the Com wire from the programer, T3 is the SW. Live to a valve or boiler ON. You should mark the green or both either one in Red / Black or Brown to show it's 230vAC and buy any 230vAV DIGI stat from Drayton Danfoss Honeywell Home, look for the 2 wire version. Only a Gas Safe or Qualified electrician to do this job. regards George 🥰👍
Dear J DK, yes no problem, always take fotos of the old stat and where it's connected to, read the new instructions because may only need 2 wires, Com and SW.L replace the new digital stat and enjoy. 😍👍
Dear Karen, Sounds like a FROST stat, there must be another somewhere in the house. Get someone to find it, if you want "Smart" on your phone that's very good, if you don't want that, ask for RF, that's one you can move the stat around the house and cheaper to buy. take care, George Staszak. 🤩👍
Dear Gixxer, thanks for asking, I cannot show you how to wire a digital stat because each firm has different terminals, you would not change to the same type, 2L +N, all digital. have COM and SW.Live same goes for Open Therm. some will be 230vAC or 24vDC or Volt Free it depends on the one you buy, as in other Vids. if your boiler has O.T. that's the lowest running cost after that VF then 24vDC avoid 230vAC. hope that explains. Our Wiring book and APP has more info. take care, George Staszak 👍
Dear Sharon, thanks for comment, unfortunately you are not alone, specifiers know it's wrong but don't care. As my relpy to another video please hang on to see my Bluetooth control which will solve yours and many peoples problem, take care 😇👍
Hi again, please watch my two vide on RF control All stats in hall are no good, it's a ROOM stat, some installers and specifiers can't read. George Staszak
My thermostat is sitting on the (outside) inside Hall wall right beside the front door. Theres hall stair n wee top landing. There's the front door the pvc door surround and then the thermostat sits againt the pvc surround. I said to them not to put it in the hall or against that wall, as it gets hit with rain n wind, and the hall us always cold. Council told me it's even better there keep everything nice n warm. No use having the thermostat as it doesn't matter what it's sitting at it doesn't turn the heating off n on, it's always on as the hall is always cold. I now just keep it off and hit advance.
Dear Heather, thanks for asking, I sympathies with you, unfortunately you are not alone, I get the impression that these organisations do not employ staff that can read install instructions which is a shame. I am making a video about changing a rubbish room stat to RF (radio frequency ) which is very easy to do, no smart complicated APP needed. Your choice is disconnect (not remove) the stat, find a qualified person to fit RF or Smart. As per video the best is from the boiler firm next is Open Therm any boiler under 6 years, next from Danfoss Drayton or Resideo. Hope that helps. 😍👍
I had an old Honeywell mechanical stat, located in living room, it only has 2 wires, Red which is live and a Black, the heating never switched off, so assumed the stat was faulty, replaced with a Drayton RTS8, because it states suitable for 2 wire set up, its still the same, never switches off, thermostat only switches heating off if i turn it manually. I currently have the Red (live) to L and Black to 3, as per wiring diagram supplied. Any advice appreciated. Can i connect a digital stat with the existing Red (live) and Black wire???
Dear B 1K, thanks for asking, The RTS8 is a very good choice the leaflet shows your RED goes to L and Black to 2. should work. Test the stat in 230vAC (programmer to ON) Turn stat to lowest temp10C?, put meter RED lead to L BLACK to 2 should be 0vAC. DANGER LIVE terminals!!! slowly turn up the stat until you get 230vAC or more, check the boiler has fired. return to stat leads back in then slowly turn down to 10C or until goes to zero AC. that's the way all 230vAC stats are tested. hope that helps, regards, George Staszak, 👍
Hi George, thanks for quick reply, I will do the test later, but, I have the Black in 3, as the leaflet says, that's for most gas/wet heating systems, should it be in 2??, Would a digital stat be better for me? Really bugging me that the stat wont switch the heating on and off as it should, when room temp is reached. (other than turning it manually) Any advice much appreciated, Mark.
Hi again, It is a digital stat, no need to change, you look at the middle drawing, www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/sites/default/files/Combistat%20%28I.%20Guide%29.pdf George
Hi George the RTS8 I have is a mechanical stat, have done the test you suggested, programmer on, stat on 10, L & 2 show 240v, turn the stat up, boiler starts up, L & 2 then show 0v, very confused.
@@MarkTyrrell-nu6sh with the stat on10c should be 0vAC, you say when you turned it up the boiler fried up=OK what happened when you turned back to 10c did it go off? try swapping the wires as see, could be the BLACK in COM, try in 2 and 3 which works OK,
Because for whatever reason gas engineers / plumbers in the UK accept a certain culture and rather than lift each other up and improve, simply race to the bottom.
Dear Swills thanks for reply, it's sad to see so many hall installs, even had installers on my course openly said they did it wrong but would not change and fit smart because too much work. all the best, George
You can put it in e.g. the Hall if you have e.g. a Gas Fire in the Lounge provided that 1. The Hall is heated by a suitably sized radiator supplied by the central heating zone the Room 'stat is controlling and 2. The Lounge radiator is generously sized (so that say 21 is achievable even though the Hall is being controlled at 18) and fitted with a Thermostatic Radiator Valve (TRV), preferably with external temperature sensing (sensing bulb is remote from the radiator valve and connected via a capillary tube). External sensing gives improved control accuracy (regardless of radiator hot water supply temperature). N.B. Danfoss used to make excellent TRVs with external sensing and still do (RA5062 2m Remote Adjuster). Also Drayton make them. The sense bulb used to be installed under the radiator although nowadays it appears it can be incorporated in a wall mounted enclosure like the Danfoss mentioned.
@@Martindyna Hi Martin, thanks for your comment, I cannot understand why installers put a ROOM stat in a hall when the install instructions show a LOUNGE, why does this happen? NEST forbid this and we see lots of them in a hall, they HAVE to be in the LOUNGE. Re lounge heat source, if a fire or burner is used daily then the rules have never changed for 50 years, the rad(s) must have a TRV, remove the wall stat convert controls to RF which is cheaper to run, see my 2 VIDs on this. There are a couple of programmable thermostats which can be in a hall, not programmable ROOM stat, that's the clue. As always installers MUST read the leaflet before fitting, sadly too many don't resulting higher bill. regards, George staszak. 🤩👍
I definitely disagree, there is no way my 70year old wife can control our heating more accurately than our programmable, opentherm stat! With regard to wiring in Honeywell type stats, the neutral connection is fundamental to it's accurate operation, as are the positioning in the MAIN sitting area, 1.5m above floor level, not the 1.2 some electricians insist on. Neutral connections are more common than not in wireless and or hardwired controls!
@@mrcombiBedford It's sad that too many installers don't make the effort to promote energy efficient anything! Maybe it's a money thing, but installers need to up their game and consumers have to take their share of responsibility and be prepared to pay a more realistic price for the RIGHT job!
@@johnward5006 It is a cost thing plus a competition thing (between tradesmen.....lower price and most customers don't know zilch so they think they're getting 'like for like' systems with different prices. Key thing is to put the roomstats out of reach of the womenfolk and hide the kitchen steps!! 😀😀
I've spent ages on my beloved TH-cam looking for info on my faulty system so thanks again for a brilliantly produced video. You're very knowledgeable and good at presenting!👍
Hi Again, glad to help, regards, George Staszak👍
Look out for a new Vid. about changing a ROOM stat in a hall to RF 👍
We're quite happy with our thermostat in the hall, when we're active during the day we use it to switch the heating on and off depending what we're doing, it would be a nuisance having to go into the sitting room (and we'd have to take outdoor shoes off). In the evening the hall thermostat sits at 12-13 and the living room is just right. If it gets too hot in the sitting room we go into the hall and turn it down. Can't see your problem with thermostats in halls really.
Dear Andrew, Thanks for the comment, as you see on the box, the firm calls it a ROOM stat, install instructions show a LOUNGE, not a hall. Please ask your installer why they ignored this and canceled your guarantee. As we sit in the lounge for 5 hours most of us want the stat there not in a cold hall.
As you point out that 247 your system overheats and you over pay, most people find that expensive. Hope that helps, George Staszak. 👍😍
Well it never overheats George as we have it set between 12 and 15, and it goes off overnight on the timer at nine pm until 8 am anyway, tbh our heating is hardly ever on ;) If we want the living room to be, say 18, we just set the thermostat in the hall to about 15, works fine. We have to go into the hall to go to the loo or whatever anyway so it's zero inconvenience to adjust it. If someone had put our stat in the living room I'd move it to the hall ;))
I pass on the message from the controls firms, very glad you happy with your controls, take care, george @@andrewcannon3195
Just to state obvious but you should not put it in a lounge if it has another heat source which nearly all do.
In my new place I have an old Drayton thermostat unlike a digital one. Not sure what settings to put to optimise usage. Note 'timed' setting is there in boiler settings
Dear Anujit, thanks for asking, room stats should be 18c over night or when you go out, when you are home 20 21 22c which is most comfortable for you. Please remember ALL stats will over shoot the target temp. set by 2 to 6 degrees to stop the boiler (hunting) going ON and OFF lots of times per hour which will damage and wear it out. Please find my VID how to test a stat. Hope that helps, George 👍
Hello there, I have the same set up that you show with the Honeywell thermostat with the wheel and the ST9100C. I want to replace with a smart system, if I choose the Honeywell T6 Wired smart, I need to put the thermostat with the display instead of the one with the wheel and the receiver box instead of the ST9100C module correct? Thank you for your answer.
Hi Stefano, thanks for asking, No the wheel is too old, replace with Drayton RF 902 2 channel about £117 from Toolstation, this will save you money and easy to use Take care, George Staszak, next week I will have a video on changing rubbish Combi controls system to to RF901 single channel, just what you need except one channel. 🤩👍
Thanks for this helpful video but in the places (8 mins 35 seconds onwards) where you talk about the blue wire, we can't see the wiring mistake you are referring to in the video and the discussion about the blue wire is not clear. Could you please show the wiring of the old thermostat that has been done incorrectly and the new correct way for a digital thermostat. I have just installed a digital one(Siemens RDH100) and I used only the yellow and red cable because those were used in the old Honeywell I was replacing. The blue wire was already cut off but not sleeved or taped up. I replaced the Honeywell because I was suspicious that it was not turning the heating off in time. So potentially overshooting and strangely it was also not turning on the heating early enough either.
Dear AR, thanks for asking, I have lots of drawings in other vids APPs and book, that shows what you are asking. The old 230vAC room stat has to have 3 wires, the neutral we don't need in digital stats so we make it safe and use the other two as they are Com and SW.L. Hope that helps, George 👍
@@mrcombiBedford Thank you very much George. I managed to get the thermostat installed using the 2 wires. I am experiencing that under the stairs location problem though. Even in June, the temperature under the stairs is dropping to 18 degrees, causing the heating to turn on. I think I need to configure it for a 2 degree differential so that it only switches the heating on when there is a 2 degrees difference. Thanks again.
Thanks for asking the blue wire is with the black wire that’s wrong
All the blue wires should be together and never with others
Hope that explains
George
You need to install the room thermostat in a room where it can get feedback from the heater it is controlling; so for central heating where it's controlling the boiler / pump / Zone valve there must be a suitably sized central heating radiator in the same room as the Room thermostat.
This is usually the problem with the room thermostat being installed in the Hall.
Traditional mains Voltage room thermostats can control within 1 degree C as long as the Anticipator Heater is connected correctly to Neutral so that it has 230 V across it when the thermostat is calling for heat (Anticipator heater is wired internally within the thermostat to be energised when the thermostat calls for heat). This ensures the Thermostat warms up approximately as quickly as a typical room would be expected to.
N.B. I have a Honeywell T6060B room thermostat with Anticipator heater that still controls accurately although it is now a little over 40 years old.
Can you tell me if the upgrade Honeywell digital thermostat you show to replace the old analog Honeywell thermostat if it will work on 3 wire setup ?? As in your vid l see 4wires from the old thermostat?? If so which way is it wired please or do l need a different Honeywell thermostat??
Mac
Hi James, thanks for asking, all digital stats only need 2 wires, Com the wire from the programmer and SW.L switched live (combi) either to the CH Com or a motorised valve (white mid poz. or brown if zone) to move the motor. The old stat would have 4: E / N / Com / SW.L. Digital only need 2 as above, make safe the others. I am doing a video soon about Analog to RF which has a bit in this video. Honeywell now RESIDEO have just launched a new range buy that stat. Hope that helps, George staszak 😀👍
I've got a portable thermostat which i inherited from the previous owners. I hate it. I want the old simple dial thermostat which i can click off easilly. They seem to have a life of their own and even though the heating is set to go off at 9pm and come on at 5am, it just randomly turns itself on at 3am. It drives me mad. Why does it do it? Also, as its portable, where should i put it? There are 2 radiators in my lounge, one in each bedroom (2 bed), and one in the hall. Thank you!
Dear Emily,
Thanks for asking, what I am hearing from you is change the colour TV for a B&W. because life was better in the old days??? As I have said in many vids. if you can hear a 'click' that is an old bad stat designed in the 60's, overshoots up to 4c VERY expensive stat ever made. All you need to do is recycle the batteries, and fit ALKALINE. A lot of stats / programmers have a Reset button to wipe the old settings to restore to factory mode. NOW you can put YOUR settings in. Best advice is copy me, put the time to ON or Constant, use the stat as required, minimum lounge 18c max 22c Frost is 10c. that is the setting for the lowest bills.
Location: on a table, lounge coffee table, dining table or bedside table, RF is the best way to control the heating. just turn temp. up / down.
hop that helps, regards, George staszak. 🤩👍
I have a Honeywell T6360b1028 thermostat.
What product can i repkace it with to convert it into a wireless unit ?
Thanks for asking, any make Danfoss Drayton or H Home, because you have to remove the connections at the wiring centre (power OFF) also at the stat remove unit. Now just connect the RECEIVER to W Centre. Please note this job can only be done by a Gas Safe or electrician who has done a control wiring course. hope that helps, George Staszak 👍
Hi George. Just sidetracking slightly but I have a customer who upgraded their Landis & Gyr roomstat to an RF EPH stat but didn't want the old stat removed. The installer set the old stat to max and told them not to use it but use new RF stat. This is correct as far as I'm aware but I think they have been moving stat probably due to habit. So, going to link wires behind stat just wanted to confirm which ones to link out. Thanks
Dear Gas NW, Thanks for asking, yes you are correct the old stat MUST be disconnected, I understand they don't want to remove the old one before decorating. Power OFF and remove the wires from the boiler end and make safe (don't cut them OFF, someone may want to reconnect them later). Hope that helps, George Staszak 🤩👍
@@mrcombiBedford Hi George. Many thanks for the information. Its an old heat only boiler so will I need to put a link back in on the boiler end so that the EPH twin channel programmer controls the switch live to the boiler? Thanks
@@gasservenw1369 Glad to help, it's only the feed to the old stat that needs removing at the boiler end as you say.👍
The blue conductor has a yellow or black to indicate line or switched voltage - in a three wire setup? Can I kindly ask where this is stated in the regulations or any codes or is it actually even stated in UK version of boiler installation manuals? Cheers
Hi Bari, thanks for asking, if a blue wire has voltage it MUST be sleeved to show current, must installers don't bother, these Codes of Practice are found in Building Control we get from either Viper or NICEIC publications, hope that helps, George Staszak 👍
@@mrcombiBedford cheers for the update. I was under the impression the sleeving colours should ideally be BROWN to indicate that it is a Switched Live - but it can also be Yellow or Black to indicate switched live?
You are correct any colour except Earth (yellow / green) is also not allowed @@Bari_Khan_CEng_CMarEng
I opened my honeywell analogue stat (in the hall) and it has 1 green wire and 1 black wire only. The green wire goes to No.3 on the backplate, whilst the black wire goes to No.1.
I thought live is supposed to be red? So has this been wired totally wrong, by using earth and no live wire? And if so how do I put it right?
BTW It is veryold.
Hi, thanks for asking, T1 is the Com wire from the programer, T3 is the SW. Live to a valve or boiler ON. You should mark the green or both either one in Red / Black or Brown to show it's 230vAC and buy any 230vAV DIGI stat from Drayton Danfoss Honeywell Home, look for the 2 wire version. Only a Gas Safe or Qualified electrician to do this job. regards George 🥰👍
Can i change the old one with a digital one without a boiler?
Dear J DK, yes no problem, always take fotos of the old stat and where it's connected to, read the new instructions because may only need 2 wires, Com and SW.L replace the new digital stat and enjoy. 😍👍
Mine is in a garage in the coldest place. By the draughty up and over door. Comes on all the time in winter ..so high up i cant reach it.
Dear Karen, Sounds like a FROST stat, there must be another somewhere in the house. Get someone to find it, if you want "Smart" on your phone that's very good,
if you don't want that, ask for RF, that's one you can move the stat around the house and cheaper to buy. take care, George Staszak. 🤩👍
I wish you showed how to replace that old thermostat to the new o, and if we have to connect the same wiring, 2 live 1 neutral plus sensor.
Dear Gixxer, thanks for asking, I cannot show you how to wire a digital stat because each firm has different terminals, you would not change to the same type, 2L +N, all digital. have COM and SW.Live same goes for Open Therm. some will be 230vAC or 24vDC or Volt Free it depends on the one you buy, as in other Vids. if your boiler has O.T. that's the lowest running cost after that VF then 24vDC avoid 230vAC. hope that explains. Our Wiring book and APP has more info. take care, George Staszak 👍
How to get the books two for £40
Thanks for asking, there is a link in the comments below the video, take care, George 👍
Are yes..... Happy wife = Happy life !!!! ....top video again.... thank you
Hi Steve, correct if Mrs Combi is happy I am really happy, take care, George😃
Sure my analogue dial doesn't work I can wack it right up to 30 and doesn't feel one bit warmer located on my stairs front door at bottom
Dear Sharon, thanks for comment, unfortunately you are not alone, specifiers know it's wrong but don't care. As my relpy to another video please hang on to see my Bluetooth control which will solve yours and many peoples problem, take care 😇👍
@@mrcombiBedford please can you pop a link to this bluetooth video, i couldnt find it. Thanks!
Hi again, please watch my two vide on RF control All stats in hall are no good, it's a ROOM stat, some installers and specifiers can't read. George Staszak
My thermostat is sitting on the (outside) inside Hall wall right beside the front door. Theres hall stair n wee top landing. There's the front door the pvc door surround and then the thermostat sits againt the pvc surround. I said to them not to put it in the hall or against that wall, as it gets hit with rain n wind, and the hall us always cold. Council told me it's even better there keep everything nice n warm. No use having the thermostat as it doesn't matter what it's sitting at it doesn't turn the heating off n on, it's always on as the hall is always cold. I now just keep it off and hit advance.
Dear Heather, thanks for asking, I sympathies with you, unfortunately you are not alone, I get the impression that these organisations do not employ staff that can read install instructions which is a shame. I am making a video about changing a rubbish room stat to RF (radio frequency ) which is very easy to do, no smart complicated APP needed. Your choice is disconnect (not remove) the stat, find a qualified person to fit RF or Smart. As per video the best is from the boiler firm next is Open Therm any boiler under 6 years, next from Danfoss Drayton or Resideo. Hope that helps. 😍👍
I had an old Honeywell mechanical stat, located in living room, it only has 2 wires, Red which is live and a Black, the heating never switched off, so assumed the stat was faulty, replaced with a Drayton RTS8, because it states suitable for 2 wire set up, its still the same, never switches off, thermostat only switches heating off if i turn it manually. I currently have the Red (live) to L and Black to 3, as per wiring diagram supplied. Any advice appreciated. Can i connect a digital stat with the existing Red (live) and Black wire???
Dear B 1K, thanks for asking, The RTS8 is a very good choice the leaflet shows your RED goes to L and Black to 2. should work. Test the stat in 230vAC (programmer to ON) Turn stat to lowest temp10C?, put meter RED lead to L BLACK to 2 should be 0vAC. DANGER LIVE terminals!!! slowly turn up the stat until you get 230vAC or more, check the boiler has fired. return to stat leads back in then slowly turn down to 10C or until goes to zero AC. that's the way all 230vAC stats are tested. hope that helps, regards, George Staszak, 👍
Hi George, thanks for quick reply, I will do the test later, but, I have the Black in 3, as the leaflet says, that's for most gas/wet heating systems, should it be in 2??, Would a digital stat be better for me? Really bugging me that the stat wont switch the heating on and off as it should, when room temp is reached. (other than turning it manually) Any advice much appreciated, Mark.
Hi again, It is a digital stat, no need to change, you look at the middle drawing, www.draytoncontrols.co.uk/sites/default/files/Combistat%20%28I.%20Guide%29.pdf
George
Hi George the RTS8 I have is a mechanical stat, have done the test you suggested, programmer on, stat on 10, L & 2 show 240v, turn the stat up, boiler starts up, L & 2 then show 0v, very confused.
@@MarkTyrrell-nu6sh with the stat on10c should be 0vAC, you say when you turned it up the boiler fried up=OK what happened when you turned back to 10c did it go off? try swapping the wires as see, could be the BLACK in COM, try in 2 and 3 which works OK,
Because for whatever reason gas engineers / plumbers in the UK accept a certain culture and rather than lift each other up and improve, simply race to the bottom.
Dear Swills thanks for reply, it's sad to see so many hall installs, even had installers on my course openly said they did it wrong but would not change and fit smart because too much work. all the best, George
"In my wife's house" 🤣. So true...
Hi Richard, that's 2 of us, take care, George 🤩👍
You don’t put it in a lounge 😂. A lounge has a main heat source so do not put the thermostat in the lounge.
Dear BBud, thanks for the comment, fortunately the manufacturer has printed on the box the location, so that's where we fit it. take care, george👍
You can put it in e.g. the Hall if you have e.g. a Gas Fire in the Lounge provided that 1. The Hall is heated by a suitably sized radiator supplied by the central heating zone the Room 'stat is controlling and 2. The Lounge radiator is generously sized (so that say 21 is achievable even though the Hall is being controlled at 18) and fitted with a Thermostatic Radiator Valve (TRV), preferably with external temperature sensing (sensing bulb is remote from the radiator valve and connected via a capillary tube). External sensing gives improved control accuracy (regardless of radiator hot water supply temperature).
N.B. Danfoss used to make excellent TRVs with external sensing and still do (RA5062 2m Remote Adjuster). Also Drayton make them. The sense bulb used to be installed under the radiator although nowadays it appears it can be incorporated in a wall mounted enclosure like the Danfoss mentioned.
@@Martindyna Hi Martin, thanks for your comment, I cannot understand why installers put a ROOM stat in a hall when the install instructions show a LOUNGE, why does this happen? NEST forbid this and we see lots of them in a hall, they HAVE to be in the LOUNGE. Re lounge heat source, if a fire or burner is used daily then the rules have never changed for 50 years, the rad(s) must have a TRV, remove the wall stat convert controls to RF which is cheaper to run, see my 2 VIDs on this. There are a couple of programmable thermostats which can be in a hall, not programmable ROOM stat, that's the clue. As always installers MUST read the leaflet before fitting, sadly too many don't resulting higher bill. regards, George staszak. 🤩👍
@@mrcombiBedford Hi George. Thanks for your response, I’ll have a look at your RF videos. With best regards, Martin
I definitely disagree, there is no way my 70year old wife can control our heating more accurately than our programmable, opentherm stat!
With regard to wiring in Honeywell type stats, the neutral connection is fundamental to it's accurate operation, as are the positioning in the MAIN sitting area, 1.5m above floor level, not the 1.2 some electricians insist on.
Neutral connections are more common than not in wireless and or hardwired controls!
Hi John,
thanks for your I agree with you, regards👍
@@mrcombiBedford It's sad that too many installers don't make the effort to promote energy efficient anything!
Maybe it's a money thing, but installers need to up their game and consumers have to take their share of responsibility and be prepared to pay a more realistic price for the RIGHT job!
@@johnward5006 It is a cost thing plus a competition thing (between tradesmen.....lower price and most customers don't know zilch so they think they're getting 'like for like' systems with different prices. Key thing is to put the roomstats out of reach of the womenfolk and hide the kitchen steps!! 😀😀
😀😀😀😀😀😀👍although you are now in trouble with her indoors lol@@Noaxe_Tegrinde