Save 10% On Your Heating Bills! We Show You How To Change Your 'Clicky' Round Thermostat For A DT4!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ย. 2024
- In this video Richard shows you how to change your inefficient 'clicky' round thermostat for a Honeywell Home DT4 wired thermostat. The DT4 thermostat is a battery operated, voltage free, wired TPI thermostat and can be used to replace any mechanical round thermostat in the UK market.
Replacing an ErP Class I On/Off thermostat to an ErP Class IV TPI (Time, Proportional & Integral) thermostat has been proven to save 10% on your heating bills.
The Honeywell Home DT4 model featured in this video is a DT40WT20 and can be bought on our website here - mwphs.co.uk/pr...
The 10% savings figure comes from BEAMA research conducted the 'Energy House' at the University of Salford (Manchester, UK) in 2021, where Richard was the lead heating consultant used for setting up the thermostat tests - www.beama.org....
We also do Grey and Black models of the DT4 thermostat - mwphs.co.uk/pr...
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One of the only videos that shows each step without skipping the most important bits. And most importantly no cheeky chappy nonsense accent.
I've read that this Honeywell DT4 model constantly keeps turning the boiler on on off. Is is a good replacement for the old style stat or should I look to replace it with th DT2? Thanks for any help offered.
Thank you for the video. Does DT4 come with a timer as I find it turning on automatically at night time. May I ask for a video of the other function of DT4 please? Their user manual is not easy to be read.
The DT4 is simply a room thermostat and does not have the capability to be programmed, hence it is shown in the video using an external programmer.
From the awful instruction leaflet, it does have other options - Eco, on, off and override (presumably this is if you just want to up the temperature temporarily). If you can show how to use those we would appreciate it! Thx @@MWPHS
I’m glad you backed yourself up with not 100% on the voltage pen but a multimeter isn’t a HSE GS38 approved tester to confirm the electricity is dead - should be using a 2 pole voltage indicator or test lamp and a known source such as a proving unit
Thanks for your input. I'll be honest, I knew this but I'm dyslexic and mixed up the wording on the video. I'll make sure on the next video I use the correct terminology.
Very helpful and well explained. Im fitting mine tomorrow now I’ve seen this video. Thank you.
Brilliant. Thank you, all went exactly as you described. 10/10
No problem… Thanks for commenting! 👍🏻
Thanks for the informative video.
I've got a new installation in progress, and want to avoid a smart/wireless system, and prefer the simplicity of these over the programmable thermostats. I do, however, still want the ability to programme them.
If i wanted the bathrooms and living area to be on during the day, but not the bedrooms, does that mean that I'd need multiple external programmers, one for each area?
These are simply non-programmable thermostats, so no provision for any time control. If you want time control, maybe consider another battery operated programmable wired thermostat like the Drayton Digistat 2290B - mwphs.co.uk/product/drayton-digistat-wired-programmable-thermostat-2290b/
Hi, I do hope that you can help. I have just watched how to remove a Honeywell clicky thermostat and the video was 100% accurate. It shows/I have red, yellow and blue wires powering it . The rest of the house setup is exactly as you show … I have the Honeywell timer for hot water/heating. Can I fit the thermostat you suggest and is so what are the wiring positions? Thanks in advance.
The DT4 can replace any existing non-programmable thermostat. Unfortunately, I can only comment about the thermostat we used in the video (which is also the equivalent to a Honeywell T6360 clicky stat). The wires that are in wiring terminals 1 & 3 on the existing thermostat, are the live and switched live wires. You use these wire (and these wires only) in the DT4 switching terminals, the rest of the wires are made safe as I've shown. If you need any technical support with the DT4 product, please contact Resideo on 0300 130 1299. Thanks for watching the video.
@@MWPHS I REALLY do appreciate you taking the time to answer. Thank you👍
Very clear video. Would the DT4R be a good replacement for the Sunvic TLX 2259. In particular would the backplate of the 2259 accomodate the DT4R without needing to drill new holes etc? I have a conventional boiler (Gloworm)? Many thanks.
Hi, looking at the Sunvic TLX 2259 the shape looks like it fits a standard UK backplate, so should have similar fixing holes to the DT4. Please note that the DT4R is the wireless version, the product in the video is a DT4 (mwphs.co.uk/product/honeywell-home-dt4-white-wired-tpi-thermostat-dt40wt20/).
@@MWPHS That's great, thank-you.
Will this room thermostat be good to replace my dirty old potterton prt100 thermostat? I have red, black, yellow and earth into my old thermostat. Thanks
Yes it will
@@MWPHSwith my old stat being wired with old wires I have red live in terminal 1 yellow in 2 will this be my switch wire? Thanks
@@stud81 normally red and yellow will be live and switched live.
Hi , thanks for the video.
I have a basic vented boiler , is the wiring same as a combi .
I.e - switched live in port b , permanent live port A .
Asking this as the wiring instructions for dt4 say permanent live not required.
Thanks
All wired thermostats do a very similar thing. In the case of the DT4, a permanent live is not required to power the DT4 as it is battery powered, but as per the video something will be required to provide the switching, be that volt free or a 230v supply switching back to the wiring centre or the boiler. If you are in any way unsure, get a competent person to do the works for you.
I have a glow worm easicom. It has the pin programmer on the bolier itself, i have a thermostat in my living room. Can i replace it with the one in the video?
Thanks
This thermostat was designed to replace older thermostats so without more details I would say yes it should.
Hello, I live in UK and I have gas combi boiler downstairs with direct heating no water tank, I have 1 thermostat down in living room and other one upstairs in master bedroom both old clicky ones, would this thermostat suit me to swap simply both old ones? thank you
Also one more question, at the end you've set the programer onto continuous mode so do I leave it like that ? cause I have 3 different section where I set the time when the boiler turns on during the day. thx
Hi, yes the DT4 wired thermostats (links in video description) are suitable for replacing any clicky thermostat. Once you have completed the testing shown in the video, you would return the programmer back to the normal operation mode (auto or twice).
That is amazing thank you very much for your help 👌
What's the warranty on this thermostat please? Thanks
5 Year Resideo Warranty on the DT4R
So clear, thank you very much.
You're very welcome!
i have a danfoss analog room thermostat thats wired with a red live blue neutral and a red jumper wire from the live to the comms on the thermostat. will this honeywll dt4 work with this wire set up
Yes, this thermostat will work with any existing thermostat, you just have to fully understand how it fits your wiring scenario.
My instructions in the box were completely wrong, how ever there was a small sticker with a diagram on the back of DT4 which said use live, neutral and switch live. The sticker was right
There is only one hard wired version of the DT4 (as shown in the video) and it does not use a neutral.
Shouldn't that be a 13A fuse? I want to get underfloor electric heating and thought 13A is what I should be using.
The DT4 thermostat is only capable of a maximum switching current of 3 amp resistive. Please don't use 13 amp fuses with these thermostats.
@@MWPHS In short, I inherited electric underfloor heating, but no idea if it is working. The old one is a honeywell t6360 and I would like to replace it but no idea with what and what fuse to use on it.
Not working for me. Same old thermostat (THR830T), same wiring, connecting Live to A and Live out (load) to B but nothing is happening. Not sure if it matters that I have a zone valve on the system, not sure if wiring is different in that case, but I have a programming unit similar like in this video, it is on continuous on but no luck 😢
Unfortunately you have multiple fail points in a heating system, so its best to call a heating installer to come and look at the system for you.
@@MWPHS I made it work, but it is weird. On the old thermometer, on your video on number 2 you have blue neutral wire and I have blue and black together on 2, and the new one is working ONLY when those two (blue and black) have contact... So I connected them and isolated them with tape and it's working. No idea why...
@@fanofmussic well written comment. Your wiring must be very old because neutral used to be created with blue plus black.
Good video.. thanks for
Most welcome! :)