That was the best introduction for this car. The tear down was very informative. I am interested ün the cvds. If I did not interpret wrong, in order to fit these beefy cvds to 124017, cups on differential should also be changed. It would be great if you can post a demonstration video for fitting 124008 cvds to 124017.
LOL, you and I are the same, I also take all my new RC cars apart first before running them to make sure all the running gear is properly lubricated (greased and oiled) - I find in doing that my RC cars tend to last a lot longer before needing new running gear parts.
Hello, good video.. Thank you... For this model, which battery do you recommend to have more life and power without damaging the equipment? Thank you, pending your reply.
That's a big topic! Since this budget car already come with 3S lipo 1500/2000mAh option, I would not go out and bought the expensive battery, you would hardly notice the difference. Recently I bought one that comes with 3300mAh soft case battery. Unless you know what you are doing, I can only recommend the stock hard case 2000mAh battery
Hi, I disassembled mine and now confused where does the stiffer spring should be. Should it be on the front or rear? also is the shock with bigger notch (on the aluminum body, theres a notch) front or rear? Thank you
Stiffer spring is used for different setup to users content and/or terrain. This will take too long to explain here. As for shocks, the longer ones go to the rear
The chassis looks like a stretched MJX Hyper Go 1/16 scale, wish they made a truck body that would fit on this, then I would really just transfer all the running gear of one of my MJX Hyper Go 16208 1/16 scale onto this WLToys Chassis so that in reality I will then have a 1/12 scale MJX Hyper Go.
Careful driving it in tallish grass, mine nuked the fan after a good run in grass / pavement. Other than that love the car. The charger is slow af btw.
@customtoyrevolution I agree, I have a G2 smart charger that I use to charge most of my batteries. Just waiting on the extensions so I can charge these on that charger and loose the USB charger.
Depends on your skills. If you like DIY, this one is far superior because of availability of parts and upgrades. Most importantly, far more durable than AMX12. Amx12 has better handling and speed on stock form. If you factor in $, don't think I need to say more
I just received this car I bought after looking at all the enthusiastic reviews. Sadly the first impressions are not in line with the expectations. In particular I find the throttle response incredibly bad with huge deadzone in both driving and braking directions. Around 50% of the full stroke has no effect and the torque modulation happens in a short amount of travel making fine control impossible. All my other RC cars are brushed so maybe I'm expecting too much from a cheap brushless esc, but at the moment I'm pretty disappointed. It's a shame as in every other aspect the car is magnificent and overall quality is better than expected.
That's a valid point if you are switching from brushed. I too felt the same when I first tried a budget brushless system, but soon got used to it. The same reason why many crawlers are brushed, or people invest in high-end brushless system. In many case, the dead zone can be programmed via a programmer but I have not tried it on this car.
@CustomToyRevolution thanks for the info. Sadly it's not just about dead zone. It combines with the minimum achievable torque that in my opinion is way too high and artificially increased just for avoiding cogging. Since I'm not interested in max speed I regret my purchase and I'll probably sell it for a more co trollable brushed version (probably the 10 scale from wltoys is a good alternative).
I honestly can't comment on the TX that comes in the box as I bought a DumboRC X6 controller and Giro RX and put that in and greased the diffs before I took it out and it's fantastic instant response and the giro works really well in this car 😁👌
Technically not on 3S. Must involve mods or suffer the consequences. This one is designed with higher torque which in turn produced better off road experience, while 124017 is designed for speed.
Got my second in today great riggs love the vid bud. Great info...👍 I got 34 on mine out the box to get the 37 I had to use a 40c liPo on it.
I tried a very cheap 120C 3S pack but didn't go any faster, probably just a 25C with a 120C label
@@customtoyrevolution I got the zop brand small it fits in cavity. It is 40c and I ended up getting 37.7 out of it. These things are so fun.
That was the best introduction for this car. The tear down was very informative. I am interested ün the cvds. If I did not interpret wrong, in order to fit these beefy cvds to 124017, cups on differential should also be changed. It would be great if you can post a demonstration video for fitting 124008 cvds to 124017.
I'll try to get a video out in the future.
Have you found spares for this yet?
@@usethatflame yes, spares are readily available now, at least on Aliexpress
@@customtoyrevolution thanks for the fast response. I can't seem to find the plastic shock towers anywhere
@@usethatflame here is one of many sellers a.aliexpress.com/_m0aJb72
LOL, you and I are the same, I also take all my new RC cars apart first before running them to make sure all the running gear is properly lubricated (greased and oiled) - I find in doing that my RC cars tend to last a lot longer before needing new running gear parts.
Thank you, water proofing the receiver is very simple, just a layer of hot glue or silicone on the circuit board and you are sorted!
Thanks for the info!
nice video i loved the total teardown.the car seems really loud?i have the 124017 v2 and its quiet as a whisper.
full metal gears are always louder
Mjx chassis has access points for greasing the diffs, it's those holes you see when the metal bumpers are removed.
Thanks
Super, thanks
Hello, good video.. Thank you... For this model, which battery do you recommend to have more life and power without damaging the equipment? Thank you, pending your reply.
That's a big topic! Since this budget car already come with 3S lipo 1500/2000mAh option, I would not go out and bought the expensive battery, you would hardly notice the difference. Recently I bought one that comes with 3300mAh soft case battery. Unless you know what you are doing, I can only recommend the stock hard case 2000mAh battery
@@customtoyrevolution Great Thanks
Price update 07/08/2023
Lowest price from Amazon is $140
Aliexpress is $92! (Lowest price in the past $89)
Thanks for the tip on the motor, so the first upgrade I will do is to put a Surpass 2845 motor in.
Find something higher than 3800kv
Hi, I disassembled mine and now confused where does the stiffer spring should be. Should it be on the front or rear? also is the shock with bigger notch (on the aluminum body, theres a notch) front or rear? Thank you
Stiffer spring is used for different setup to users content and/or terrain. This will take too long to explain here. As for shocks, the longer ones go to the rear
Does that mean you can't race with other WLtoys, if you can use whichever controler that came with it?
You can race with other wltoys just the same as always
Sounds like the cars from The Jetsons cartoon.
I wouldn't know. Thanks for sharing
If you have an mjx 16208, could you compare the diffs to see if they are compatible? Thanks.
No compatible. I wish it were
@@customtoyrevolution Bummer, thanks
The chassis looks like a stretched MJX Hyper Go 1/16 scale, wish they made a truck body that would fit on this, then I would really just transfer all the running gear of one of my MJX Hyper Go 16208 1/16 scale onto this WLToys Chassis so that in reality I will then have a 1/12 scale MJX Hyper Go.
I too wonder why MJX don't make 1/12 or 1/10. Only thing come to mind is cost as that would run into Arrma's territory
my friend, have you measured or do you know the length of the main shaft?
Center shaft is 22mm end to end with no gears. Same as 124017 or similar 1/12 wltoys buggies
wich model is better 007 or 008 and why?
2 very different cars. 007 for speed and control, 008 for bashing around
Careful driving it in tallish grass, mine nuked the fan after a good run in grass / pavement. Other than that love the car. The charger is slow af btw.
Interesting. As for charging, IMO, a smart charger is a must for everyone who own a real car or have any type of rechargeable batteries
@customtoyrevolution I agree, I have a G2 smart charger that I use to charge most of my batteries. Just waiting on the extensions so I can charge these on that charger and loose the USB charger.
Question here is. Can a 3650 fit in there?
No in stock form. Yes, if you custom made a motor mount
I think I missed it. Battery runtime? thanks
No easy answer. 10 to 20min or even 30min with the larger battery
How does this compare to the amx12?
Depends on your skills. If you like DIY, this one is far superior because of availability of parts and upgrades. Most importantly, far more durable than AMX12. Amx12 has better handling and speed on stock form. If you factor in $, don't think I need to say more
Where u get the drill at. I need one
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08V5C7HQT (Just get something similar)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SQGVCL2 (Drive bits)
This one or the 124017 ?
Speed 124017. Durability 124008. Up to you.
Better gears and axles, all I need to know
Try to organize your table, is too messy. Thank you for the video!
LOL, always busy, please come help
I just received this car I bought after looking at all the enthusiastic reviews. Sadly the first impressions are not in line with the expectations. In particular I find the throttle response incredibly bad with huge deadzone in both driving and braking directions. Around 50% of the full stroke has no effect and the torque modulation happens in a short amount of travel making fine control impossible.
All my other RC cars are brushed so maybe I'm expecting too much from a cheap brushless esc, but at the moment I'm pretty disappointed.
It's a shame as in every other aspect the car is magnificent and overall quality is better than expected.
That's a valid point if you are switching from brushed. I too felt the same when I first tried a budget brushless system, but soon got used to it. The same reason why many crawlers are brushed, or people invest in high-end brushless system. In many case, the dead zone can be programmed via a programmer but I have not tried it on this car.
@CustomToyRevolution thanks for the info. Sadly it's not just about dead zone. It combines with the minimum achievable torque that in my opinion is way too high and artificially increased just for avoiding cogging. Since I'm not interested in max speed I regret my purchase and I'll probably sell it for a more co trollable brushed version (probably the 10 scale from wltoys is a good alternative).
I honestly can't comment on the TX that comes in the box as I bought a DumboRC X6 controller and Giro RX and put that in and greased the diffs before I took it out and it's fantastic instant response and the giro works really well in this car 😁👌
Which grease for the diffs?
The gear sounds wired....
Cast aluminum gear! it does sound weird. Could be the diffs as I haven't add oil to them? I'll add oil next time I service it
The 124017 hits 45 on 2s stock and will run 3s
Technically not on 3S. Must involve mods or suffer the consequences. This one is designed with higher torque which in turn produced better off road experience, while 124017 is designed for speed.
🌸 Promo SM
What's that mean?