$1000 Fire Ball? Extreme Testing of the ZD Racing EX07 1/7 HyperCar!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 เม.ย. 2021
- I was told not to do this! But I decided to take the Risk to make this Video! 15,000mah, 100c Gensace Lipos Vs ZD Racing EX07. These Lipo's on paper can discharge 1500 Amps each!
15000mah x100c/1000 = 1500A!
The RC Kiwis had an issue with their ESC going up in smoke. They were told not to use high power lipos... well, here's my thoughts!
Check out the RC Kiwis here:
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15000 mah 100c Bashing Series Lipos:
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www.gensace.de/gens-ace-15000...
$1000 Fire Ball? The Car is $650, the Lipos are about $300 for the pair...my trainers make up the remaining $50 haha
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The EX07 is currently not available to the UK from Banggood. If you are interested, try here. And using the Discount code 'Tomley' might take a bit off for you. shop.makerfire.com/products/zd-racing-ex07-1-7-4wd-electric-hypercar-brushless-rc-car?_pos=9&_sid=ae7205980&_ss=r&aff=286
Who cares if it's not licensed it's a hot-rod! Literally the only part of the Hoonicorn body that is still stock 65 mustang is the coupe roof! Who are you going to get licensing from? Ken Block? He didn't serial number the car as his own and it's definitely not a 65 mustang anymore soooo..... not a Ford either. No one person built the Hoonicorn so it's the worlds car! IMHO
your so wrong if you dont think the higher amp in a batterypack delivers more current.. it certainly does.
and that goes for both Liion cells and LIPO packs.
same goes for power tools.
if you take a impact drill or impact wrench and use fx a 18v 2000mah pack versus 18v 6000mahbattery-pack.. you get more torque / impact if everything else is equal and you not current limited with the higher amp pack.
if you unsure' then use an RC power meter.. it very clearly displays it that your amp draw is higher with more mah if anything is somewhat equal.. so the vendor is certain correct when they claim that higher amp rated cell or cell for quadcopters with very high C rating, can reach higher peaks with the risk of choking the ESC. and if you wanna use such cells then use a beefier ESC
So no, it ain't just longer runtimes, you will also get more wattage potency with a higher mah rated pack.
Funny how many that get this wrong in RC and also in many powertools.
Been looking forward to this video! Thanks for sharing!
No probs dude
Definitely a good explanation on the batteries. Far too many people think that batteries "push" power.
Great job on this analogy Dr.Phil! The gauge size of your wiring, from battery, to esc to motor is also a very important factor as far as heat transfer. Bigger wiring =better heat transfer = cooler motor, and cooler esc. What you did seems totally acceptable to me, because your still staying within your limits! And good heavy wires make limits more tolerable. Fun video Phil⭐️! Wicked fun car! Wish I had one👊🏼👍🏻🤘🏻
That was an excellent way of explaining the battery, ESC, Motor and wiring gauge. Great video, as always, Thanx 👍👍
I love how you got 6weeks of video in 1 short video! And you was spot on with the power delivery description. But its throttle bodies and fuel injection thease days. Can't wait to see more of this car. Need a speed run with the big batteries in it
Haha... 6 weeks. It’s easier to explain using a Carb 😎
That was a great analogy, Tomley! 😃
You just forgot about the entropy: as something works it loses energy, generating heat. (That applies to the batteries, esc and motor.) So it all depends on how much heat it generates and how good is the cooling... In this case I believe the esc doesn't have a trustworthy cooling system... The fan should never stop like that! 😬
Anyway, fantastic bashing!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Yes very true... I was trying to keep the video as short as possible. I did actually mention heat... but it was not easy to put in to the explanation about it being like a normal car... so I just mentioned ‘load’ and left it as that 😎
Yeah the cheaper stuff is less efficient so they heat up the more energy the use. You can pull any Chinese shitty esc apart and see the garbage contacts. They use a plaster that hardens instead of nickel soldering. Copper blends instead of copper or zinc.
@@justinjones5281 That's very true, but it heavily depends on the brand. The best and the worst are both made in China nowadays.
Brilliant explaination of something I've been trying to work out while looking for battery's
No pro as mate... you can get a little more technical with them... but that’s the easiest way to explain it
Awesome run, thought your explanation about the batteries, esc, motor was great.
Cheers John. I was a technical instructor for 5yrs, I always found people understand stuff better if you can relate it to real life things
Tomley your presentation and explanation of the RC power system is perfect, very clear and to the point. I'm a former auto technician and HGV tech. Class 8 diesel in my part of the world lol. I think ZD just doesn't want the risk of overheating due to longer run times with the bigger battery is my guess. Amoril said the same to me went their esc and motor gave up on 3s I used a 35c and they wanted 25c!
Excellent video Phil. Keep up the great job your doing keeping us informed and entertained. Top job. John
Thanks dude
Thanks for the comprehensive explantation!
Really enjoyed this one dude, nice to see no fireball go you. Those batteries are some size I'm surprised the motor did get a little hot with the run time. Dam good video
Cheers Dude... I was secretly hoping for a bit of drama with the ESC lol
6 weeks run time!! 😂😂I love it! And I agree with a lot of people in the comments! The way u explained the electronics, I’m very sure helped people understand and have a lot better idea of the electrical systems in these RC’s. Great video! Can’t wait to see the roller!!
Nice technical explanation 👊🍻 great vídeo as always.
Thanks mate
Dude i like that ESC=carburetor analogy! Ima use that next time!
More mah just means longer duration, and a higher C rating means that the motor can draw those amps down more quickly if it needs to, so you might get a bit more punch, "initial acceleration". But an electric motor will only take what it needs. So if you have an ESC/motor combo, that's your control right there, it won't take more than it needs.
The biggest difference you can make to a motor, and an ESC, is if you change the voltage. So that would be more or less cells in the pack. When we run older/cheaper RC vehicles with brushed motors, we can add cells and make them faster, though the motor and the ESC will burn out sooner. But in either case, a reasonably up to date ESC will cut out if given too much voltage, won't it?
I think these cheap 150A ESC’s are pretty good, but because of the lack of quality control, there is a high percentage that go ‘pop’ than your more mainstream brands.
@@TomleyRC Cheapo is a good word that's for sure!
I think you drive damn good one handed. Props sir!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Awesome video bro.... I can’t wait to get a EX07!
A really useful analogy - thank you!
No probs Jon
An other fantastic video. I already caught on getting an ZD Racing BX-8E Roller.
The greatest🔋 explanation in the history of physics, science and engineering
Très bon pilotage à une seule main 💪💪👍
Perfect analogy IMO! A battery with a higher C rating is similar to a larger diameter fuel line. It is not creating increased fuel pressure, it is only increasing available volume of electric fuel for use if needed/demanded.
Yes, exactly that
I have 120 amp and 150 amp surpasshobby esc and they are solid. Especially for the price. I never had an issue. And ive ran them in snow and rain.
That's good to know, I saw a few videos where guys had them short or smoke. Maybe they were doing something wrong.
The esc didn't do the thermal cut off properly on the rckiwis car probably & burst into flames that was the cause while yours is functional as you noticed the fan wasn't moving at all.
A mod worth doing i guess is getting one of those generic 120mm fan shrouds that are sort of a mesh net & cutting it down too size and gluing it onto the fan or getting some sort of mounting for it if you cant screw it down with the fan without having longer screws sorted out for it.
Yes agree... those fan housings have a lot of space for stones to get in there!
Thanks for the rigorous testing! I just ordered one and you had me worried/anxious for the first 80% of the video 😅
I can't tell ya how glad I was that we didn't see it go Lipo supernova! Loved that last drift session montage too! Hellz yeah! Now where sir...is that clutch velour track suit from the 90's Nikko vid to complete the look! 🙃 Classic!
Thanks for the vid tomley!
The ex07's stock ESC is just a rebranded Surpass Hobby 150 amp 6s ESC. I got one and tried it in my Limitless with stock gearing.
It did heat up so fast, I had to stop running it before it burns..
In short, that stock ex07 ESC is not for something bigger than 1/8 scale, and also not for high speed gearing. The amp draw could burn it..
I hope zd racing improves it.
Or to be better, just buy the roller version.
I love the brake down. On the this on how you explain it
Regarding one hand driving, you can strap the selfie stick to your controller base with 2 battery straps. I'm sure you're aware of this but it's worth a try for smoother driving, works for me. Great content as always, cheers.
I do that quite a bit (I have a GoPro clamp) but to get the low down action shots it’s easier the way I did it in this video
Nice car analogy 👌
I had the hpi hoonicorn and swapped out the stock motor and esc for the flux system so the speed matched the look, only 3s 5k batteries not as fast as yours and over priced ( HPI High Price Imminent) but mega fun. Love your channel and vids are informative and helpful thanks keep up the content 👍👍
I’d love to get hold of a New HPI one 😎👌
@@TomleyRC like rocking horse poop
I was very confused but you explained it properly. It shouldn't matter. Same voltage . unless the esc is garbage .
That is actually a good valid response 1:47 if that is from the Chinese maker.
"we recommend if you wanna use aircraft batteries with high C rating, then get the barebone version' so you can fit an higher amp rated ESC."
I usually don't see such proper responses from Chinese makers.
Great great video. Thanks for putting that our . Big thumbs up 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Amazing car, great video Bro!! Wow!
Thanks mate
love the hoonicorn 👍😀
Me too!
I just smoked that same ESC "Surpass Hobby" last Sunday doing speed runs on 3s, 93mph redcat lighting
Great slo mo shots!
Thanks Ron
This Mustang Ken Block is monstrous ! 💪💪💪👍👍👍
Brilliant analogy of how power system works, maybe do an rc guide for noobs. You’ve probably got more answers than noobs have questions. Great channel (apart from crawlers 😂) 👍👍👍
Awesome video
you explained the battery voltage well.
Good analogy
I'm not surprised on the esc handled the big batteries. I have a surpass hobby 150amp and I run it consistently on two 3s 6000mah 80c batteries.
Yes, I have a 60A, 120A & 150A... no issues with them
I'm glad you did this test. It is ridiculous that you would have to use a specific battery from them. If the esc cant pull the current then it cant pull it and that should be the end of the story.
When I'm not making videos while trying to break my RC cars, I do enjoy watching others do it. LOL
Haha
@@TomleyRC Better luck next time.
Man awesome video m8 I like this car looks nice I thing I'd like two see a rally shell on it looks a good platform and if you don't whant the electrics like you said could get rolling chassis wounder what it would be like with a Castle set up in it 👍👍👍
Gr8 content my friend…. Your explanation of RC batteries is spot on ….. those are the biggest batteries I’ve ever seen as far as MaH ratings… I don’t recall if you gave the price of those Gynormous batteries but I’d like to know … thanks for sharing! 😎👍🏻💯
Thanks mate… appreciate it 😎👍
That is an awesome looking car, licensed or not I love it 👍🏻🍻
Agree Rob
Megacorp give enough of their stickers away expecting you to advertise them for free, well zd just collected em all and stuck em to a bodyshell
Crikey, Tomley gone mad with power He has!
Did You top up the shocks cause in slowmo They looked pretty good?
Beauty Mate, another great show thanks.
I do like it! How are the tyres holding up? I have a mate with a new arrma infraction and the stock tyres lasted 1 or 2 sessions of about 20-30mins. Which is a little rough considering its $70+(AUD) for 2 tyres. I would really like to test these zd racing wheels/tyres out but there doesn't seem to be any replacement parts available yet.
Interesting analogy, but it's difficult if not misleading/impossible to use an internal combustion engine to explain an electical motor system. There is no analogue for an ESC in a liquid fueled car because the batteries are both the fuel and the pump. The ESC is pretty much the ECU in the gas car which does regulate injector timing, but is absolutely not under any extra load if the fuel pump/fuel flow is increased dramatically.
Quite simply, ZD have supplied batteries that are too small for the car, but in being too small they can't keep up with the amp draw required by the motor. Because the voltage will sag in the batteries when they are struggling to supply the amps required, this means the ESC gets an easier ride. If you use batteries that can keep up with the amp draw, the voltage holds causing extra heat build up in the ESC, which is what causes the damage. As to what actually fails, could be the amp handling side, or it could be (as I believe the castles were) the BEC blowing out.
I guess the analogue for a gas car would be installing an alternator that was much too powerful for the car, causing wiring and electrical components to blow.
No Kaboom 😂
Awesome vid
Thanks mate
great car great vid. thank you
No probs dude
That thing looks badass and pretty good power stock with the recommend batteries I didn't know who Ken Block was till about a couple months before this RC came out I was watching all his vids so it was really cool to see a RC of the hoonigan 4wd drive Mustang I never dreamed of a 4wd Mustang especially all modded out like it is I don't know how they got away with the licensing I don't know anything about how it works to be honest lol Cool vid mate sorry for the long arse comment I get carried away talking about that awesome car and the RC 😁
Love it...good explanation...is that the set up from the rally car? If not ...it should be! Keep poking the bear...hehe!
Different set up... I will keep pushing!
That was a very good explanation of a RC car power systems. It is just thy ZD racing is not being truthful about there electronics.
I'm not really up to speed with all the technical stuff, but your explanation was excellent, made it easy for me to now understand!
Thanks mate. It’s a not more complicated than that... but that’s e best way to describe it
? Series battery s c rating doubles or remains same? awesome vid loving videos keep up great analogies you nailed it 💯👍 subscribed
I think the C Rating will stay the same as I’d say that is more of a ‘science’… and. It something that will change that easily… but I’m not 100% sure. Cheers for the support 😎👍
Wow keep making these amazing videos
Thanks mate
@@TomleyRC No problem
No fire with all that extra weight and and 3 time's the run time. 👍
Yeah, it did well!
It makes a huge difference what the ambient temperature is.
might have to get me 1 great video im glad you showed me the esc aint bad
hi Tomley quick question! please how did you fix the head lights to keep on all the time? cause i am not able to fix it on my
hey tom, i also have an ex07, and the only way the esc managed to burn out was me doing like 4 high speed runs full wide open throttle, then chucking a few high speed drifts, maybe you should try that as an extreme torture test
The different battery can make a huge difference for the drivetrain.
Under full acceleration, the current through the motor is dictated by the systems voltage.
But the system voltage isn't constant. Everything has an internal resistance, so if the motor pulls a lot of current, there will be voltage drop.
That voltage drop in return reduces the motors current, according to ohm's law.
With bad batteries like the ZD ones and a lot of current, you can EASILY generate 4-5V voltage drop. That's like running 5 instead of 6 cell lipo!!!
Now to the battery. The C rating multiplied with the capacity in amp-hours gives the nominal current the battery can supply.
By tripling C rating and capacity, the battery can nominally sustain 9 TIMES the current.
That roughly translates to a nineth of the internal resistance and therefore a nineth of the voltage drop!!!
If we assume you had 5V drop on original batteries, that'd give a system voltage of 20V when starting with a full battery.
With the new battery, under the same load, the system would only drop to 24,5V.
So if you go from 150A at 20V to 24,5V, you'd already be at over 180A.
So no wonder the ESC died.
Agreed. The mah rating of a battery (size of the fuel tank) should have no impact on the operation of the ESC. The C rating would be an issue if anything so it's weird that ZD Racing told the RC Kiwi's that the mah rating is the issue.
Yes agree... I’m not sure ZD understand it themselves lol
This is a common misconception. Your RC car runs on watts . Watts are volts x amps. Battery might be the same voltage...but because it has higher mah value it means it does provide more watts at full throttle.
I've tested this on my 4tec2 and will get faster top speeds with a larger mah heavier battery.
I dig your wiffle-walflle explination of an RC car parts to a real car. Great job n keep up the great work that you do 😎👍👍 ....two thumbs up.... Get out there n enjoy your hobbies😁 Be safe😷
Fairly accurate. I'd say, imagine your fuel tank is also 200 feet above you and the fuel is pressing down with a lot of force into the carb. In theory it shouldn't matter much but things don't always go to theory.
That was cool.
Great video Phil gens ace should have a discount code for tyres , l bet two good runs on them should sufficiently rubbish the tyres
These are a pretty hard compound. But I reckon if you maxed out the run time on the Lipos they’d not last too long lol
Nice one of my favourite videos 👍
You couldn't have even watched the whole thing yet.. lol
Haha... cheers dude
Awesome 😎😎😎
I'm impressed by this especially being 2 of my friends have them and both of their esc's caught fire. Though they did run 4s so that might have something to do with it,lol. As for that body,I don't care if it isn't licensed,it's still cool looking,lol. I hope they do the hoonitruck next,lol.
Sorry... are you serious about 4s? That doesn't make any sense based on what I know... please read my understanding of esc and voltage above in the comments... I just ordered one rtr and your 4s comment is scary 😨
@@JenniferHenberger yes I'm serious 4s set there esc's on fire but it could of been a fluke. I had a traxxas udr about 2 years ago and the esc was rated for 6s and after running on 6s,the esc caught fire. It was the factory esc and used the recommended traxxas brand battery. Traxxas denied my claim saying it never happened etc. telling me there products are really good and no one has had problems. 7Lucky for me my cousin was filming it when the esc went up and we sent the video to traxxas. Traxxas said we pushed the vehicle too hard but agreed to send a new esc as a replacement. It was the only esc I have ever had gone up. I been in the rc hobby for close to 30 years. I went from the mechanical speed controllers from.back in the day to the electronic speed controllers. So while it doesn't happen often,it can happen whether it be a good esc or the cheap Chinese ones.
@@jonlaird5082 wow, thanks... I will be careful I guess... or maybe just change the electronics... it's cheap rtr but kind of pricey as a roller one you get everything you need... hrm... Good story about traxxas... for some reason I've never bought one because I don't feel they're ethical... price per value isn't there... and too much plastic makes me feel more embarrassed to be playing with toys as an adult than I already am... lol... arrma/horizon would send a replacement esc without blinking, and you can see the money you pay when you open the box... just got the outcast 8s... only running it on 6s but with a slightly smaller spur... plenty of punch and speed... and the value is visible... wanted a big truck for the desert but xmaxx just looks like a plastic injection mold... I'm not paying $1k for that, no matter how awesome the performance is...
Follow up vid suggestion: Short out the terminals on the ZD racing 3s pack and measure the current + wattage to see what it ACTUALLY puts out. Even money says it doesn't come close to the rated max even under those conditions.
Yeah agree... although 5000/35c is pretty crap anyway :)
The fuel system was explained like a true prophet.👍🇬🇧😎
Need to see a speed run with those batteries.
Yes, I expect a couple more MPH... so maybe close to 70mph
Cool! It uses a rebranded Dumborc controller
SEND IT!!!
Yeah but In your theory about the C rating being bigger fuel lines if you would dump too much gas into the carburetor. It would damage your carburetor and consequently break down LOL. I think one of the biggest things in the Hobby that people don’t understand is how important the C rating really is. It definitely can give you maximum performance but it can also cause a lot of damage as well. Essentially it will blow Capacitors in your ESC. But nice video
Carbs pull fuel through them... they are not gravity fed. So it wouldn’t quite be like you say.
Yeah the amount of draw is dictated by the motor and the amount of load it sees as a result of weight/gearing/terrain etc.
What could be happening is they are recommending batteries that don't have enough guts to give the electronics all the amps they could actually potentially pull, especially in peak situations. But that's a shitty idea in itself as it means the batteries will get stressed out.
Almost like the setup is over geared for optimal thermal stability and then using weak batteries as a current limiting system.
@@TomleyRC I know that but you said the C ratings are just bigger fuel lines so You would need a bigger carburetor there is a difference between a two barrel and a four barrel carburetor. It’s just a hard one to compare fuel and electric because if you pump a lot more power into something it’s going to cause it to heat things upQuite a bit more and everybody knows heat is an RC electronics worst nightmare. That’s what I was getting at
THE C RATING IS MORE LIKE THE OCTANE OF THE FUEL... THE AMPS IS LIKE THE MILAGE OR FUEL CUNSUMPTION .. I HAVE THE SD RACING 1/8 SCALE SHORT COURSE TRUCK THAT CAME OUT GREEN N BLUE AND IS NOW DISCONTINUED ... AND THE ESC BURNED UP N SO DID STOCK BATTERIES I HAVE PUT A WATER COOLED ESC IN IT THAT IS 6S
N THE MOTOR GETS HOT I HAVE A 19 OR 20TOOTH PINION I JUST GOT A 34 TOOTH PINION I HAD TO ORDER NEW DUMBO RC TX RX SO THATS INSTALLED THE BODY MELTED IN THE HEAT N WENT FLAT I JUST GOT MY NEW 1/8 SCALE VW BEETLE BODY FROM EBAY THE ONES THAT ARE 29.99ITS A LITTLE SMALL BUT I HAVE A BODY NOW .. I HAD TO REBUILD CENTER DIFF CUZ I SHREDDED THE PLASTIC SPUR I TOOK A KTM BUGGY CANTER DIFF N TOOK THE SPUR N PUT ON THE ZD RACING CENTER DIFF ONLY RUNNING IT ON 4S RIGHT NOW I JUST GOT NEW BATTERIES GRAPHENE 2S 100C 4000MAH I FIGURED I COULD USE WITH NO PREP DRAG CAR IM GOING TO BUILD FOR THE KING OF THE STREETS DRAG RACE THEY HAVE HELD HERE FOR 2 YEARS NOW N I MISSED THEM BECAUSE OF THIEVES.... BUT I JUST GOT A JOB ... I TOOK TRUCK TO TRACK N GOT REAR ENDED N MY BUGGY BODY FELL OFF N BATTERY CAME OUT THAT RUNS RECEIVER SO I WNT BACK THE OTHER NIGHT N THEN I NOTICED THE PARK TOOK OUT THE POWER SO NO MORE CHARGING N NO MORE LIGHTS AT NIGHT WHICH SUCKS.... N EXPLAINS WHY I ONLY SAW NITRO CARS ON TRACK O BATTERIES HAVE A LITTLE RUN TIME ON THEM SO IM GONNA GET THE BODY POSTS MOUNTED N DRIVE TRUCK N CHARGE IT UP FOR TRACK AT 6AM SO I ONLY HAVE 4.5 HOURS i would like to get this car your driving too... but after drag car i want the 1/5 rovan gas rc but ill see ..
There seems to be a misconception that a massive, high C pack (packs) will allow more performance. As soon as you use a pack that can deliver all that a system will demand, going larger will do nothing, other than adding weight (which will cause amp draw to be higher)
As for the wire gauge, it will only have a truly noticeable difference when dealing with longer wires. Difference will be relatively little with such short wires.
Had you have killed the esc, I can almost guarantee it would have been due to higher amps and system stress from the substantial increase in mass.
Voltage sag is real my dude. The stiffer the pack, the higher the voltage under load, the more wattage made, the more torque produced. But yeah, after a point there is diminishing returns. Most RC car guys aren't going to notice much if any difference going to a higher C pack since their packs are already high mah. The guys that fly often swear by the higher C ratings because they are using smaller batteries that sag more. They really notice the extra punch. Agree 100% on the wires.
Phil for the roller i would go max6 and hobbystar or leopard 4285 or maybe 4585
Yes, Max6 for sure... but not sure on motor yet
@@TomleyRC i got the leopard 4082 and its got tons of power, but its 6s 2000kv
Hey bud I was listening to this one in the background and I'm sure someone has answered but the analogy is a bit bunk. In the stock system the batteries are the bottleneck, limiting the current. The motor via the esc want more but that is all the batts can give. Higher capacity and larger c rating mean they can give more and so are no longer the bottleneck. This puts more pressure on the esc (which you rightly said is at it's limit). So under load... Bang. Clearly not the way to spec a system but they are built to a cost
6 weeks of run time that's insane 😂😂😂😂❤
Where was my fireball 😔 Great video that things a beast
Haha... I know, I share the same disappointment!
In all honesty who cares if it’s licensed or not sure being licensed is more authentic but in the end it’s just a really fast toy you can make it how you want it in my opinion
To my mind the c rating is a batteries safe charge and discharge rate. A 25c battery may well provide more than 25c if asked to but it will shorten the life of a battery. So I dont see any problem as long as they are both 3s
Hmmm, sounds like the ESC has been mis-programmed to allow it a higher burst draw than the internals can actually handle. This is the only way I can see a bigger C rating messing up an ESC. This is also a potential problem as it means that the ESC 'could' overload the batteries before the ESC. You could replace the motor with a lower KV to reduce the chances of the motor asking the ESC for more than it can take
How long were you able to run it for with those batteries?
I'll say yes you proved me wrong! Right on mate!
I was expecting a fire a bit disappointing 🤣👍👍👍
I was slightly disappointed haha
Put a 8s system in it so we can see if the rest of the drivetrain can handle more power. Most rc hobbyist will upgrade their rigs when something breaks or just for the hell of more power..
The fan on the esc needs a better protective screen on it.
Them batterys are beast
Yeah, crazy!
But I do love this car... It's on my wishlist so that's my next purchase so thanks for the review...
I bought the version without electrical part and assembled it this week with ESC Hobbywing ezrun MAX-6 v3 160a, Racerstar 4282 720KV engine and 2 batteries 6s 5200 60c. The problem is that when I connect only one battery (by bridging the ESC), the car works normally, but when I connect both batteries, everything works normal, except the engine not responding and the ESC is flashing red without the beeps. Can you help me?
Plug in a decent ESC Card and you should find your problem. There will be a setting that needs changing is my guess mate. Hope this helps
I'm sure im calculating wrong but isnt it 150amps not 1500? There is 1/10 of hour conversion from amp hrs to amps missing, unless I'm misreading gens ace website. Which then puts you at max esc rating causing failure.