The EX07 is currently not available to the UK from Banggood. If you are interested, try here. And using the Discount code 'Tomley' might take a bit off for you. shop.makerfire.com/products/zd-racing-ex07-1-7-4wd-electric-hypercar-brushless-rc-car?_pos=9&_sid=ae7205980&_ss=r&aff=286
Who cares if it's not licensed it's a hot-rod! Literally the only part of the Hoonicorn body that is still stock 65 mustang is the coupe roof! Who are you going to get licensing from? Ken Block? He didn't serial number the car as his own and it's definitely not a 65 mustang anymore soooo..... not a Ford either. No one person built the Hoonicorn so it's the worlds car! IMHO
your so wrong if you dont think the higher amp in a batterypack delivers more current.. it certainly does. and that goes for both Liion cells and LIPO packs. same goes for power tools. if you take a impact drill or impact wrench and use fx a 18v 2000mah pack versus 18v 6000mahbattery-pack.. you get more torque / impact if everything else is equal and you not current limited with the higher amp pack. if you unsure' then use an RC power meter.. it very clearly displays it that your amp draw is higher with more mah if anything is somewhat equal.. so the vendor is certain correct when they claim that higher amp rated cell or cell for quadcopters with very high C rating, can reach higher peaks with the risk of choking the ESC. and if you wanna use such cells then use a beefier ESC So no, it ain't just longer runtimes, you will also get more wattage potency with a higher mah rated pack. Funny how many that get this wrong in RC and also in many powertools.
You legit explained the battery thing in a way all car people can understand lmao. I love that. It shows that you're equally as much of a car guy as you are an RC enthusiast. We need more car jargon translation
I love how you got 6weeks of video in 1 short video! And you was spot on with the power delivery description. But its throttle bodies and fuel injection thease days. Can't wait to see more of this car. Need a speed run with the big batteries in it
Perfect analogy IMO! A battery with a higher C rating is similar to a larger diameter fuel line. It is not creating increased fuel pressure, it is only increasing available volume of electric fuel for use if needed/demanded.
Tomley your presentation and explanation of the RC power system is perfect, very clear and to the point. I'm a former auto technician and HGV tech. Class 8 diesel in my part of the world lol. I think ZD just doesn't want the risk of overheating due to longer run times with the bigger battery is my guess. Amoril said the same to me went their esc and motor gave up on 3s I used a 35c and they wanted 25c!
Great job on this analogy Dr.Phil! The gauge size of your wiring, from battery, to esc to motor is also a very important factor as far as heat transfer. Bigger wiring =better heat transfer = cooler motor, and cooler esc. What you did seems totally acceptable to me, because your still staying within your limits! And good heavy wires make limits more tolerable. Fun video Phil⭐️! Wicked fun car! Wish I had one👊🏼👍🏻🤘🏻
That was a great analogy, Tomley! 😃 You just forgot about the entropy: as something works it loses energy, generating heat. (That applies to the batteries, esc and motor.) So it all depends on how much heat it generates and how good is the cooling... In this case I believe the esc doesn't have a trustworthy cooling system... The fan should never stop like that! 😬 Anyway, fantastic bashing!!! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Yes very true... I was trying to keep the video as short as possible. I did actually mention heat... but it was not easy to put in to the explanation about it being like a normal car... so I just mentioned ‘load’ and left it as that 😎
Yeah the cheaper stuff is less efficient so they heat up the more energy the use. You can pull any Chinese shitty esc apart and see the garbage contacts. They use a plaster that hardens instead of nickel soldering. Copper blends instead of copper or zinc.
More mah just means longer duration, and a higher C rating means that the motor can draw those amps down more quickly if it needs to, so you might get a bit more punch, "initial acceleration". But an electric motor will only take what it needs. So if you have an ESC/motor combo, that's your control right there, it won't take more than it needs. The biggest difference you can make to a motor, and an ESC, is if you change the voltage. So that would be more or less cells in the pack. When we run older/cheaper RC vehicles with brushed motors, we can add cells and make them faster, though the motor and the ESC will burn out sooner. But in either case, a reasonably up to date ESC will cut out if given too much voltage, won't it?
I think these cheap 150A ESC’s are pretty good, but because of the lack of quality control, there is a high percentage that go ‘pop’ than your more mainstream brands.
Thanks for the vid tomley! The ex07's stock ESC is just a rebranded Surpass Hobby 150 amp 6s ESC. I got one and tried it in my Limitless with stock gearing. It did heat up so fast, I had to stop running it before it burns.. In short, that stock ex07 ESC is not for something bigger than 1/8 scale, and also not for high speed gearing. The amp draw could burn it.. I hope zd racing improves it. Or to be better, just buy the roller version.
6 weeks run time!! 😂😂I love it! And I agree with a lot of people in the comments! The way u explained the electronics, I’m very sure helped people understand and have a lot better idea of the electrical systems in these RC’s. Great video! Can’t wait to see the roller!!
Regarding one hand driving, you can strap the selfie stick to your controller base with 2 battery straps. I'm sure you're aware of this but it's worth a try for smoother driving, works for me. Great content as always, cheers.
I had the hpi hoonicorn and swapped out the stock motor and esc for the flux system so the speed matched the look, only 3s 5k batteries not as fast as yours and over priced ( HPI High Price Imminent) but mega fun. Love your channel and vids are informative and helpful thanks keep up the content 👍👍
In all honesty who cares if it’s licensed or not sure being licensed is more authentic but in the end it’s just a really fast toy you can make it how you want it in my opinion
Really enjoyed this one dude, nice to see no fireball go you. Those batteries are some size I'm surprised the motor did get a little hot with the run time. Dam good video
as an ex-mechanic by trade, the way you explained everything was spot on! good job my friend! you'll need to take that beast of a car to the airport strip one day when you get a chance and really let it reach it's potential. great for drifting i must say! cheers for the cool and informative video!
I'm glad you did this test. It is ridiculous that you would have to use a specific battery from them. If the esc cant pull the current then it cant pull it and that should be the end of the story.
Agreed. The mah rating of a battery (size of the fuel tank) should have no impact on the operation of the ESC. The C rating would be an issue if anything so it's weird that ZD Racing told the RC Kiwi's that the mah rating is the issue.
This is a common misconception. Your RC car runs on watts . Watts are volts x amps. Battery might be the same voltage...but because it has higher mah value it means it does provide more watts at full throttle. I've tested this on my 4tec2 and will get faster top speeds with a larger mah heavier battery.
Brilliant analogy of how power system works, maybe do an rc guide for noobs. You’ve probably got more answers than noobs have questions. Great channel (apart from crawlers 😂) 👍👍👍
I can't tell ya how glad I was that we didn't see it go Lipo supernova! Loved that last drift session montage too! Hellz yeah! Now where sir...is that clutch velour track suit from the 90's Nikko vid to complete the look! 🙃 Classic!
The esc didn't do the thermal cut off properly on the rckiwis car probably & burst into flames that was the cause while yours is functional as you noticed the fan wasn't moving at all. A mod worth doing i guess is getting one of those generic 120mm fan shrouds that are sort of a mesh net & cutting it down too size and gluing it onto the fan or getting some sort of mounting for it if you cant screw it down with the fan without having longer screws sorted out for it.
That is actually a good valid response 1:47 if that is from the Chinese maker. "we recommend if you wanna use aircraft batteries with high C rating, then get the barebone version' so you can fit an higher amp rated ESC." I usually don't see such proper responses from Chinese makers.
Fairly accurate. I'd say, imagine your fuel tank is also 200 feet above you and the fuel is pressing down with a lot of force into the carb. In theory it shouldn't matter much but things don't always go to theory.
That thing looks badass and pretty good power stock with the recommend batteries I didn't know who Ken Block was till about a couple months before this RC came out I was watching all his vids so it was really cool to see a RC of the hoonigan 4wd drive Mustang I never dreamed of a 4wd Mustang especially all modded out like it is I don't know how they got away with the licensing I don't know anything about how it works to be honest lol Cool vid mate sorry for the long arse comment I get carried away talking about that awesome car and the RC 😁
Follow up vid suggestion: Short out the terminals on the ZD racing 3s pack and measure the current + wattage to see what it ACTUALLY puts out. Even money says it doesn't come close to the rated max even under those conditions.
I dig your wiffle-walflle explination of an RC car parts to a real car. Great job n keep up the great work that you do 😎👍👍 ....two thumbs up.... Get out there n enjoy your hobbies😁 Be safe😷
There seems to be a misconception that a massive, high C pack (packs) will allow more performance. As soon as you use a pack that can deliver all that a system will demand, going larger will do nothing, other than adding weight (which will cause amp draw to be higher) As for the wire gauge, it will only have a truly noticeable difference when dealing with longer wires. Difference will be relatively little with such short wires. Had you have killed the esc, I can almost guarantee it would have been due to higher amps and system stress from the substantial increase in mass.
Voltage sag is real my dude. The stiffer the pack, the higher the voltage under load, the more wattage made, the more torque produced. But yeah, after a point there is diminishing returns. Most RC car guys aren't going to notice much if any difference going to a higher C pack since their packs are already high mah. The guys that fly often swear by the higher C ratings because they are using smaller batteries that sag more. They really notice the extra punch. Agree 100% on the wires.
Yeah but In your theory about the C rating being bigger fuel lines if you would dump too much gas into the carburetor. It would damage your carburetor and consequently break down LOL. I think one of the biggest things in the Hobby that people don’t understand is how important the C rating really is. It definitely can give you maximum performance but it can also cause a lot of damage as well. Essentially it will blow Capacitors in your ESC. But nice video
Yeah the amount of draw is dictated by the motor and the amount of load it sees as a result of weight/gearing/terrain etc. What could be happening is they are recommending batteries that don't have enough guts to give the electronics all the amps they could actually potentially pull, especially in peak situations. But that's a shitty idea in itself as it means the batteries will get stressed out. Almost like the setup is over geared for optimal thermal stability and then using weak batteries as a current limiting system.
@@TomleyRC I know that but you said the C ratings are just bigger fuel lines so You would need a bigger carburetor there is a difference between a two barrel and a four barrel carburetor. It’s just a hard one to compare fuel and electric because if you pump a lot more power into something it’s going to cause it to heat things upQuite a bit more and everybody knows heat is an RC electronics worst nightmare. That’s what I was getting at
Interesting analogy, but it's difficult if not misleading/impossible to use an internal combustion engine to explain an electical motor system. There is no analogue for an ESC in a liquid fueled car because the batteries are both the fuel and the pump. The ESC is pretty much the ECU in the gas car which does regulate injector timing, but is absolutely not under any extra load if the fuel pump/fuel flow is increased dramatically. Quite simply, ZD have supplied batteries that are too small for the car, but in being too small they can't keep up with the amp draw required by the motor. Because the voltage will sag in the batteries when they are struggling to supply the amps required, this means the ESC gets an easier ride. If you use batteries that can keep up with the amp draw, the voltage holds causing extra heat build up in the ESC, which is what causes the damage. As to what actually fails, could be the amp handling side, or it could be (as I believe the castles were) the BEC blowing out. I guess the analogue for a gas car would be installing an alternator that was much too powerful for the car, causing wiring and electrical components to blow.
Hey bud I was listening to this one in the background and I'm sure someone has answered but the analogy is a bit bunk. In the stock system the batteries are the bottleneck, limiting the current. The motor via the esc want more but that is all the batts can give. Higher capacity and larger c rating mean they can give more and so are no longer the bottleneck. This puts more pressure on the esc (which you rightly said is at it's limit). So under load... Bang. Clearly not the way to spec a system but they are built to a cost
The different battery can make a huge difference for the drivetrain. Under full acceleration, the current through the motor is dictated by the systems voltage. But the system voltage isn't constant. Everything has an internal resistance, so if the motor pulls a lot of current, there will be voltage drop. That voltage drop in return reduces the motors current, according to ohm's law. With bad batteries like the ZD ones and a lot of current, you can EASILY generate 4-5V voltage drop. That's like running 5 instead of 6 cell lipo!!! Now to the battery. The C rating multiplied with the capacity in amp-hours gives the nominal current the battery can supply. By tripling C rating and capacity, the battery can nominally sustain 9 TIMES the current. That roughly translates to a nineth of the internal resistance and therefore a nineth of the voltage drop!!! If we assume you had 5V drop on original batteries, that'd give a system voltage of 20V when starting with a full battery. With the new battery, under the same load, the system would only drop to 24,5V. So if you go from 150A at 20V to 24,5V, you'd already be at over 180A. So no wonder the ESC died.
Hmmm, sounds like the ESC has been mis-programmed to allow it a higher burst draw than the internals can actually handle. This is the only way I can see a bigger C rating messing up an ESC. This is also a potential problem as it means that the ESC 'could' overload the batteries before the ESC. You could replace the motor with a lower KV to reduce the chances of the motor asking the ESC for more than it can take
To my mind the c rating is a batteries safe charge and discharge rate. A 25c battery may well provide more than 25c if asked to but it will shorten the life of a battery. So I dont see any problem as long as they are both 3s
Not sure what the issue is, the battery doesn't force 1500amps into the circuit, the circuit pulls what it needs, if the battery is capable of delivering more current than the circuit is rated at, that's just a more safe power supply. If the battery isn't capable of delivering the current the circuit demands and it is a lipo, it can go into thermal runaway and burst into flames. This is basic stuff that anyone using lipo's should understand. Now I'll watch the video where you explain all of this because I know you aren't an idiot.
First ..... I do enjoy your videos very much ....and thank you for what you bring to us all with regards to our hobby.....but .... with all due respect.... If any of us choose to invest in an RC with a price tag north of $600 USD.... I just think that there are way too many “issues “ involving batteries..... ESC’s.....available parts etc...that we have to overcome to put some tires on the pavement....... thanks again for your informative vids ☮️~~I’m out..!!! 👍🏻😎
I'm sure im calculating wrong but isnt it 150amps not 1500? There is 1/10 of hour conversion from amp hrs to amps missing, unless I'm misreading gens ace website. Which then puts you at max esc rating causing failure.
Perhaps their concern is that larger capacity batteries will allow the car to run harder for longer, overheating the ESC and/or motor? It seems like you did a pretty good job at that though 😉 Also, you proved the ESC has overheating protection, so it shouldn't be an issue.
Gr8 content my friend…. Your explanation of RC batteries is spot on ….. those are the biggest batteries I’ve ever seen as far as MaH ratings… I don’t recall if you gave the price of those Gynormous batteries but I’d like to know … thanks for sharing! 😎👍🏻💯
I'm impressed by this especially being 2 of my friends have them and both of their esc's caught fire. Though they did run 4s so that might have something to do with it,lol. As for that body,I don't care if it isn't licensed,it's still cool looking,lol. I hope they do the hoonitruck next,lol.
Sorry... are you serious about 4s? That doesn't make any sense based on what I know... please read my understanding of esc and voltage above in the comments... I just ordered one rtr and your 4s comment is scary 😨
@@JenniferHenberger yes I'm serious 4s set there esc's on fire but it could of been a fluke. I had a traxxas udr about 2 years ago and the esc was rated for 6s and after running on 6s,the esc caught fire. It was the factory esc and used the recommended traxxas brand battery. Traxxas denied my claim saying it never happened etc. telling me there products are really good and no one has had problems. 7Lucky for me my cousin was filming it when the esc went up and we sent the video to traxxas. Traxxas said we pushed the vehicle too hard but agreed to send a new esc as a replacement. It was the only esc I have ever had gone up. I been in the rc hobby for close to 30 years. I went from the mechanical speed controllers from.back in the day to the electronic speed controllers. So while it doesn't happen often,it can happen whether it be a good esc or the cheap Chinese ones.
@@jonlaird5082 wow, thanks... I will be careful I guess... or maybe just change the electronics... it's cheap rtr but kind of pricey as a roller one you get everything you need... hrm... Good story about traxxas... for some reason I've never bought one because I don't feel they're ethical... price per value isn't there... and too much plastic makes me feel more embarrassed to be playing with toys as an adult than I already am... lol... arrma/horizon would send a replacement esc without blinking, and you can see the money you pay when you open the box... just got the outcast 8s... only running it on 6s but with a slightly smaller spur... plenty of punch and speed... and the value is visible... wanted a big truck for the desert but xmaxx just looks like a plastic injection mold... I'm not paying $1k for that, no matter how awesome the performance is...
Put a 8s system in it so we can see if the rest of the drivetrain can handle more power. Most rc hobbyist will upgrade their rigs when something breaks or just for the hell of more power..
Man awesome video m8 I like this car looks nice I thing I'd like two see a rally shell on it looks a good platform and if you don't whant the electrics like you said could get rolling chassis wounder what it would be like with a Castle set up in it 👍👍👍
So basically the ESC is underdimensioned and can't take the rated voltage on full throttle. You shouldn't limit it with a low rated battery because the voltage drop (in the battery) x current is the heat produced in the battery, basiclly wasted energy that also might ruin the battery. It is better to not charge the battery to 100%
I do like it! How are the tyres holding up? I have a mate with a new arrma infraction and the stock tyres lasted 1 or 2 sessions of about 20-30mins. Which is a little rough considering its $70+(AUD) for 2 tyres. I would really like to test these zd racing wheels/tyres out but there doesn't seem to be any replacement parts available yet.
THE C RATING IS MORE LIKE THE OCTANE OF THE FUEL... THE AMPS IS LIKE THE MILAGE OR FUEL CUNSUMPTION .. I HAVE THE SD RACING 1/8 SCALE SHORT COURSE TRUCK THAT CAME OUT GREEN N BLUE AND IS NOW DISCONTINUED ... AND THE ESC BURNED UP N SO DID STOCK BATTERIES I HAVE PUT A WATER COOLED ESC IN IT THAT IS 6S N THE MOTOR GETS HOT I HAVE A 19 OR 20TOOTH PINION I JUST GOT A 34 TOOTH PINION I HAD TO ORDER NEW DUMBO RC TX RX SO THATS INSTALLED THE BODY MELTED IN THE HEAT N WENT FLAT I JUST GOT MY NEW 1/8 SCALE VW BEETLE BODY FROM EBAY THE ONES THAT ARE 29.99ITS A LITTLE SMALL BUT I HAVE A BODY NOW .. I HAD TO REBUILD CENTER DIFF CUZ I SHREDDED THE PLASTIC SPUR I TOOK A KTM BUGGY CANTER DIFF N TOOK THE SPUR N PUT ON THE ZD RACING CENTER DIFF ONLY RUNNING IT ON 4S RIGHT NOW I JUST GOT NEW BATTERIES GRAPHENE 2S 100C 4000MAH I FIGURED I COULD USE WITH NO PREP DRAG CAR IM GOING TO BUILD FOR THE KING OF THE STREETS DRAG RACE THEY HAVE HELD HERE FOR 2 YEARS NOW N I MISSED THEM BECAUSE OF THIEVES.... BUT I JUST GOT A JOB ... I TOOK TRUCK TO TRACK N GOT REAR ENDED N MY BUGGY BODY FELL OFF N BATTERY CAME OUT THAT RUNS RECEIVER SO I WNT BACK THE OTHER NIGHT N THEN I NOTICED THE PARK TOOK OUT THE POWER SO NO MORE CHARGING N NO MORE LIGHTS AT NIGHT WHICH SUCKS.... N EXPLAINS WHY I ONLY SAW NITRO CARS ON TRACK O BATTERIES HAVE A LITTLE RUN TIME ON THEM SO IM GONNA GET THE BODY POSTS MOUNTED N DRIVE TRUCK N CHARGE IT UP FOR TRACK AT 6AM SO I ONLY HAVE 4.5 HOURS i would like to get this car your driving too... but after drag car i want the 1/5 rovan gas rc but ill see ..
Fascinating and educative vid thank you. But how long did it run for? You joked about 6 weeks, and (very clearly may I say) established capacity was all about run-time. So when Gensace sent you these bricks to review they presumably wanted you to emphasise a potential purchaser's motive for buying 15,000mah batteries i.e. longer run time. I was thinking on paper 15,000mah should last about 3 times longer than the 5,000mah (setting aside C rating and weight differences which would be relatively nominal) but did it? You did mention 30 mins filming at one point, but a conclusion would have been helpful.
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The EX07 is currently not available to the UK from Banggood. If you are interested, try here. And using the Discount code 'Tomley' might take a bit off for you. shop.makerfire.com/products/zd-racing-ex07-1-7-4wd-electric-hypercar-brushless-rc-car?_pos=9&_sid=ae7205980&_ss=r&aff=286
Who cares if it's not licensed it's a hot-rod! Literally the only part of the Hoonicorn body that is still stock 65 mustang is the coupe roof! Who are you going to get licensing from? Ken Block? He didn't serial number the car as his own and it's definitely not a 65 mustang anymore soooo..... not a Ford either. No one person built the Hoonicorn so it's the worlds car! IMHO
your so wrong if you dont think the higher amp in a batterypack delivers more current.. it certainly does.
and that goes for both Liion cells and LIPO packs.
same goes for power tools.
if you take a impact drill or impact wrench and use fx a 18v 2000mah pack versus 18v 6000mahbattery-pack.. you get more torque / impact if everything else is equal and you not current limited with the higher amp pack.
if you unsure' then use an RC power meter.. it very clearly displays it that your amp draw is higher with more mah if anything is somewhat equal.. so the vendor is certain correct when they claim that higher amp rated cell or cell for quadcopters with very high C rating, can reach higher peaks with the risk of choking the ESC. and if you wanna use such cells then use a beefier ESC
So no, it ain't just longer runtimes, you will also get more wattage potency with a higher mah rated pack.
Funny how many that get this wrong in RC and also in many powertools.
You legit explained the battery thing in a way all car people can understand lmao. I love that. It shows that you're equally as much of a car guy as you are an RC enthusiast. We need more car jargon translation
I love how you got 6weeks of video in 1 short video! And you was spot on with the power delivery description. But its throttle bodies and fuel injection thease days. Can't wait to see more of this car. Need a speed run with the big batteries in it
Haha... 6 weeks. It’s easier to explain using a Carb 😎
Perfect analogy IMO! A battery with a higher C rating is similar to a larger diameter fuel line. It is not creating increased fuel pressure, it is only increasing available volume of electric fuel for use if needed/demanded.
Yes, exactly that
Been looking forward to this video! Thanks for sharing!
No probs dude
Tomley your presentation and explanation of the RC power system is perfect, very clear and to the point. I'm a former auto technician and HGV tech. Class 8 diesel in my part of the world lol. I think ZD just doesn't want the risk of overheating due to longer run times with the bigger battery is my guess. Amoril said the same to me went their esc and motor gave up on 3s I used a 35c and they wanted 25c!
Great job on this analogy Dr.Phil! The gauge size of your wiring, from battery, to esc to motor is also a very important factor as far as heat transfer. Bigger wiring =better heat transfer = cooler motor, and cooler esc. What you did seems totally acceptable to me, because your still staying within your limits! And good heavy wires make limits more tolerable. Fun video Phil⭐️! Wicked fun car! Wish I had one👊🏼👍🏻🤘🏻
That was a great analogy, Tomley! 😃
You just forgot about the entropy: as something works it loses energy, generating heat. (That applies to the batteries, esc and motor.) So it all depends on how much heat it generates and how good is the cooling... In this case I believe the esc doesn't have a trustworthy cooling system... The fan should never stop like that! 😬
Anyway, fantastic bashing!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Yes very true... I was trying to keep the video as short as possible. I did actually mention heat... but it was not easy to put in to the explanation about it being like a normal car... so I just mentioned ‘load’ and left it as that 😎
Yeah the cheaper stuff is less efficient so they heat up the more energy the use. You can pull any Chinese shitty esc apart and see the garbage contacts. They use a plaster that hardens instead of nickel soldering. Copper blends instead of copper or zinc.
@@justinjones5281 That's very true, but it heavily depends on the brand. The best and the worst are both made in China nowadays.
Excellent video Phil. Keep up the great job your doing keeping us informed and entertained. Top job. John
Thanks dude
Awesome run, thought your explanation about the batteries, esc, motor was great.
Cheers John. I was a technical instructor for 5yrs, I always found people understand stuff better if you can relate it to real life things
That was an excellent way of explaining the battery, ESC, Motor and wiring gauge. Great video, as always, Thanx 👍👍
More mah just means longer duration, and a higher C rating means that the motor can draw those amps down more quickly if it needs to, so you might get a bit more punch, "initial acceleration". But an electric motor will only take what it needs. So if you have an ESC/motor combo, that's your control right there, it won't take more than it needs.
The biggest difference you can make to a motor, and an ESC, is if you change the voltage. So that would be more or less cells in the pack. When we run older/cheaper RC vehicles with brushed motors, we can add cells and make them faster, though the motor and the ESC will burn out sooner. But in either case, a reasonably up to date ESC will cut out if given too much voltage, won't it?
I think these cheap 150A ESC’s are pretty good, but because of the lack of quality control, there is a high percentage that go ‘pop’ than your more mainstream brands.
@@TomleyRC Cheapo is a good word that's for sure!
Brilliant explaination of something I've been trying to work out while looking for battery's
No pro as mate... you can get a little more technical with them... but that’s the easiest way to explain it
Definitely a good explanation on the batteries. Far too many people think that batteries "push" power.
Thanks for the vid tomley!
The ex07's stock ESC is just a rebranded Surpass Hobby 150 amp 6s ESC. I got one and tried it in my Limitless with stock gearing.
It did heat up so fast, I had to stop running it before it burns..
In short, that stock ex07 ESC is not for something bigger than 1/8 scale, and also not for high speed gearing. The amp draw could burn it..
I hope zd racing improves it.
Or to be better, just buy the roller version.
I have 120 amp and 150 amp surpasshobby esc and they are solid. Especially for the price. I never had an issue. And ive ran them in snow and rain.
That's good to know, I saw a few videos where guys had them short or smoke. Maybe they were doing something wrong.
Nice technical explanation 👊🍻 great vídeo as always.
Thanks mate
The greatest🔋 explanation in the history of physics, science and engineering
6 weeks run time!! 😂😂I love it! And I agree with a lot of people in the comments! The way u explained the electronics, I’m very sure helped people understand and have a lot better idea of the electrical systems in these RC’s. Great video! Can’t wait to see the roller!!
Dude i like that ESC=carburetor analogy! Ima use that next time!
This Mustang Ken Block is monstrous ! 💪💪💪👍👍👍
Regarding one hand driving, you can strap the selfie stick to your controller base with 2 battery straps. I'm sure you're aware of this but it's worth a try for smoother driving, works for me. Great content as always, cheers.
I do that quite a bit (I have a GoPro clamp) but to get the low down action shots it’s easier the way I did it in this video
I had the hpi hoonicorn and swapped out the stock motor and esc for the flux system so the speed matched the look, only 3s 5k batteries not as fast as yours and over priced ( HPI High Price Imminent) but mega fun. Love your channel and vids are informative and helpful thanks keep up the content 👍👍
I’d love to get hold of a New HPI one 😎👌
@@TomleyRC like rocking horse poop
In all honesty who cares if it’s licensed or not sure being licensed is more authentic but in the end it’s just a really fast toy you can make it how you want it in my opinion
Really enjoyed this one dude, nice to see no fireball go you. Those batteries are some size I'm surprised the motor did get a little hot with the run time. Dam good video
Cheers Dude... I was secretly hoping for a bit of drama with the ESC lol
as an ex-mechanic by trade, the way you explained everything was spot on! good job my friend! you'll need to take that beast of a car to the airport strip one day when you get a chance and really let it reach it's potential. great for drifting i must say! cheers for the cool and informative video!
Très bon pilotage à une seule main 💪💪👍
I'm glad you did this test. It is ridiculous that you would have to use a specific battery from them. If the esc cant pull the current then it cant pull it and that should be the end of the story.
Agreed. The mah rating of a battery (size of the fuel tank) should have no impact on the operation of the ESC. The C rating would be an issue if anything so it's weird that ZD Racing told the RC Kiwi's that the mah rating is the issue.
Yes agree... I’m not sure ZD understand it themselves lol
This is a common misconception. Your RC car runs on watts . Watts are volts x amps. Battery might be the same voltage...but because it has higher mah value it means it does provide more watts at full throttle.
I've tested this on my 4tec2 and will get faster top speeds with a larger mah heavier battery.
An other fantastic video. I already caught on getting an ZD Racing BX-8E Roller.
Brilliant analogy of how power system works, maybe do an rc guide for noobs. You’ve probably got more answers than noobs have questions. Great channel (apart from crawlers 😂) 👍👍👍
No fire with all that extra weight and and 3 time's the run time. 👍
Yeah, it did well!
I think you drive damn good one handed. Props sir!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I can't tell ya how glad I was that we didn't see it go Lipo supernova! Loved that last drift session montage too! Hellz yeah! Now where sir...is that clutch velour track suit from the 90's Nikko vid to complete the look! 🙃 Classic!
Thanks for the rigorous testing! I just ordered one and you had me worried/anxious for the first 80% of the video 😅
Thanks for the comprehensive explantation!
The esc didn't do the thermal cut off properly on the rckiwis car probably & burst into flames that was the cause while yours is functional as you noticed the fan wasn't moving at all.
A mod worth doing i guess is getting one of those generic 120mm fan shrouds that are sort of a mesh net & cutting it down too size and gluing it onto the fan or getting some sort of mounting for it if you cant screw it down with the fan without having longer screws sorted out for it.
Yes agree... those fan housings have a lot of space for stones to get in there!
Great slo mo shots!
Thanks Ron
A really useful analogy - thank you!
No probs Jon
I'm not surprised on the esc handled the big batteries. I have a surpass hobby 150amp and I run it consistently on two 3s 6000mah 80c batteries.
Yes, I have a 60A, 120A & 150A... no issues with them
I'm not really up to speed with all the technical stuff, but your explanation was excellent, made it easy for me to now understand!
Thanks mate. It’s a not more complicated than that... but that’s e best way to describe it
That is actually a good valid response 1:47 if that is from the Chinese maker.
"we recommend if you wanna use aircraft batteries with high C rating, then get the barebone version' so you can fit an higher amp rated ESC."
I usually don't see such proper responses from Chinese makers.
Fairly accurate. I'd say, imagine your fuel tank is also 200 feet above you and the fuel is pressing down with a lot of force into the carb. In theory it shouldn't matter much but things don't always go to theory.
That thing looks badass and pretty good power stock with the recommend batteries I didn't know who Ken Block was till about a couple months before this RC came out I was watching all his vids so it was really cool to see a RC of the hoonigan 4wd drive Mustang I never dreamed of a 4wd Mustang especially all modded out like it is I don't know how they got away with the licensing I don't know anything about how it works to be honest lol Cool vid mate sorry for the long arse comment I get carried away talking about that awesome car and the RC 😁
The fuel system was explained like a true prophet.👍🇬🇧😎
Cool! It uses a rebranded Dumborc controller
I love the brake down. On the this on how you explain it
love the hoonicorn 👍😀
Me too!
I was very confused but you explained it properly. It shouldn't matter. Same voltage . unless the esc is garbage .
Awesome video bro.... I can’t wait to get a EX07!
That was a very good explanation of a RC car power systems. It is just thy ZD racing is not being truthful about there electronics.
Follow up vid suggestion: Short out the terminals on the ZD racing 3s pack and measure the current + wattage to see what it ACTUALLY puts out. Even money says it doesn't come close to the rated max even under those conditions.
Yeah agree... although 5000/35c is pretty crap anyway :)
you explained the battery voltage well.
That is an awesome looking car, licensed or not I love it 👍🏻🍻
Agree Rob
Megacorp give enough of their stickers away expecting you to advertise them for free, well zd just collected em all and stuck em to a bodyshell
I dig your wiffle-walflle explination of an RC car parts to a real car. Great job n keep up the great work that you do 😎👍👍 ....two thumbs up.... Get out there n enjoy your hobbies😁 Be safe😷
There seems to be a misconception that a massive, high C pack (packs) will allow more performance. As soon as you use a pack that can deliver all that a system will demand, going larger will do nothing, other than adding weight (which will cause amp draw to be higher)
As for the wire gauge, it will only have a truly noticeable difference when dealing with longer wires. Difference will be relatively little with such short wires.
Had you have killed the esc, I can almost guarantee it would have been due to higher amps and system stress from the substantial increase in mass.
Voltage sag is real my dude. The stiffer the pack, the higher the voltage under load, the more wattage made, the more torque produced. But yeah, after a point there is diminishing returns. Most RC car guys aren't going to notice much if any difference going to a higher C pack since their packs are already high mah. The guys that fly often swear by the higher C ratings because they are using smaller batteries that sag more. They really notice the extra punch. Agree 100% on the wires.
I'll say yes you proved me wrong! Right on mate!
When I'm not making videos while trying to break my RC cars, I do enjoy watching others do it. LOL
Haha
@@TomleyRC Better luck next time.
Yeah but In your theory about the C rating being bigger fuel lines if you would dump too much gas into the carburetor. It would damage your carburetor and consequently break down LOL. I think one of the biggest things in the Hobby that people don’t understand is how important the C rating really is. It definitely can give you maximum performance but it can also cause a lot of damage as well. Essentially it will blow Capacitors in your ESC. But nice video
Carbs pull fuel through them... they are not gravity fed. So it wouldn’t quite be like you say.
Yeah the amount of draw is dictated by the motor and the amount of load it sees as a result of weight/gearing/terrain etc.
What could be happening is they are recommending batteries that don't have enough guts to give the electronics all the amps they could actually potentially pull, especially in peak situations. But that's a shitty idea in itself as it means the batteries will get stressed out.
Almost like the setup is over geared for optimal thermal stability and then using weak batteries as a current limiting system.
@@TomleyRC I know that but you said the C ratings are just bigger fuel lines so You would need a bigger carburetor there is a difference between a two barrel and a four barrel carburetor. It’s just a hard one to compare fuel and electric because if you pump a lot more power into something it’s going to cause it to heat things upQuite a bit more and everybody knows heat is an RC electronics worst nightmare. That’s what I was getting at
Interesting analogy, but it's difficult if not misleading/impossible to use an internal combustion engine to explain an electical motor system. There is no analogue for an ESC in a liquid fueled car because the batteries are both the fuel and the pump. The ESC is pretty much the ECU in the gas car which does regulate injector timing, but is absolutely not under any extra load if the fuel pump/fuel flow is increased dramatically.
Quite simply, ZD have supplied batteries that are too small for the car, but in being too small they can't keep up with the amp draw required by the motor. Because the voltage will sag in the batteries when they are struggling to supply the amps required, this means the ESC gets an easier ride. If you use batteries that can keep up with the amp draw, the voltage holds causing extra heat build up in the ESC, which is what causes the damage. As to what actually fails, could be the amp handling side, or it could be (as I believe the castles were) the BEC blowing out.
I guess the analogue for a gas car would be installing an alternator that was much too powerful for the car, causing wiring and electrical components to blow.
Love it...good explanation...is that the set up from the rally car? If not ...it should be! Keep poking the bear...hehe!
Different set up... I will keep pushing!
I just smoked that same ESC "Surpass Hobby" last Sunday doing speed runs on 3s, 93mph redcat lighting
Just bought one of these. It’s great!
Hey bud I was listening to this one in the background and I'm sure someone has answered but the analogy is a bit bunk. In the stock system the batteries are the bottleneck, limiting the current. The motor via the esc want more but that is all the batts can give. Higher capacity and larger c rating mean they can give more and so are no longer the bottleneck. This puts more pressure on the esc (which you rightly said is at it's limit). So under load... Bang. Clearly not the way to spec a system but they are built to a cost
The different battery can make a huge difference for the drivetrain.
Under full acceleration, the current through the motor is dictated by the systems voltage.
But the system voltage isn't constant. Everything has an internal resistance, so if the motor pulls a lot of current, there will be voltage drop.
That voltage drop in return reduces the motors current, according to ohm's law.
With bad batteries like the ZD ones and a lot of current, you can EASILY generate 4-5V voltage drop. That's like running 5 instead of 6 cell lipo!!!
Now to the battery. The C rating multiplied with the capacity in amp-hours gives the nominal current the battery can supply.
By tripling C rating and capacity, the battery can nominally sustain 9 TIMES the current.
That roughly translates to a nineth of the internal resistance and therefore a nineth of the voltage drop!!!
If we assume you had 5V drop on original batteries, that'd give a system voltage of 20V when starting with a full battery.
With the new battery, under the same load, the system would only drop to 24,5V.
So if you go from 150A at 20V to 24,5V, you'd already be at over 180A.
So no wonder the ESC died.
SEND IT!!!
Great video Phil gens ace should have a discount code for tyres , l bet two good runs on them should sufficiently rubbish the tyres
These are a pretty hard compound. But I reckon if you maxed out the run time on the Lipos they’d not last too long lol
Great great video. Thanks for putting that our . Big thumbs up 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Need to see a speed run with those batteries.
Yes, I expect a couple more MPH... so maybe close to 70mph
Crikey, Tomley gone mad with power He has!
Did You top up the shocks cause in slowmo They looked pretty good?
Beauty Mate, another great show thanks.
Hmmm, sounds like the ESC has been mis-programmed to allow it a higher burst draw than the internals can actually handle. This is the only way I can see a bigger C rating messing up an ESC. This is also a potential problem as it means that the ESC 'could' overload the batteries before the ESC. You could replace the motor with a lower KV to reduce the chances of the motor asking the ESC for more than it can take
Nice car analogy 👌
To my mind the c rating is a batteries safe charge and discharge rate. A 25c battery may well provide more than 25c if asked to but it will shorten the life of a battery. So I dont see any problem as long as they are both 3s
Not sure what the issue is, the battery doesn't force 1500amps into the circuit, the circuit pulls what it needs, if the battery is capable of delivering more current than the circuit is rated at, that's just a more safe power supply. If the battery isn't capable of delivering the current the circuit demands and it is a lipo, it can go into thermal runaway and burst into flames.
This is basic stuff that anyone using lipo's should understand. Now I'll watch the video where you explain all of this because I know you aren't an idiot.
Unfortunately it's not common knowledge to everyone in the Hobby.... but hopefully the way I explained it will give some people a better understanding
Where was my fireball 😔 Great video that things a beast
Haha... I know, I share the same disappointment!
First ..... I do enjoy your videos very much ....and thank you for what you bring to us all with regards to our hobby.....but .... with all due respect.... If any of us choose to invest in an RC with a price tag north of $600 USD.... I just think that there are way too many “issues “ involving batteries..... ESC’s.....available parts etc...that we have to overcome to put some tires on the pavement....... thanks again for your informative vids
☮️~~I’m out..!!! 👍🏻😎
"I don't like being told what to do", I bet you're popular with the local constabulary 😔
I make exceptions 😅
Im telling you. You should not send me that hoonicorn.
The fan on the esc needs a better protective screen on it.
I'm sure im calculating wrong but isnt it 150amps not 1500? There is 1/10 of hour conversion from amp hrs to amps missing, unless I'm misreading gens ace website. Which then puts you at max esc rating causing failure.
Perhaps their concern is that larger capacity batteries will allow the car to run harder for longer, overheating the ESC and/or motor? It seems like you did a pretty good job at that though 😉 Also, you proved the ESC has overheating protection, so it shouldn't be an issue.
Yes, although I’m sure the RC Kiwis weren’t running it too long
I was expecting a fire a bit disappointing 🤣👍👍👍
I was slightly disappointed haha
Amazing car, great video Bro!! Wow!
Thanks mate
No Kaboom 😂
Awesome vid
Thanks mate
6 weeks of run time that's insane 😂😂😂😂❤
Good analogy
Gr8 content my friend…. Your explanation of RC batteries is spot on ….. those are the biggest batteries I’ve ever seen as far as MaH ratings… I don’t recall if you gave the price of those Gynormous batteries but I’d like to know … thanks for sharing! 😎👍🏻💯
Thanks mate… appreciate it 😎👍
I'm impressed by this especially being 2 of my friends have them and both of their esc's caught fire. Though they did run 4s so that might have something to do with it,lol. As for that body,I don't care if it isn't licensed,it's still cool looking,lol. I hope they do the hoonitruck next,lol.
Sorry... are you serious about 4s? That doesn't make any sense based on what I know... please read my understanding of esc and voltage above in the comments... I just ordered one rtr and your 4s comment is scary 😨
@@JenniferHenberger yes I'm serious 4s set there esc's on fire but it could of been a fluke. I had a traxxas udr about 2 years ago and the esc was rated for 6s and after running on 6s,the esc caught fire. It was the factory esc and used the recommended traxxas brand battery. Traxxas denied my claim saying it never happened etc. telling me there products are really good and no one has had problems. 7Lucky for me my cousin was filming it when the esc went up and we sent the video to traxxas. Traxxas said we pushed the vehicle too hard but agreed to send a new esc as a replacement. It was the only esc I have ever had gone up. I been in the rc hobby for close to 30 years. I went from the mechanical speed controllers from.back in the day to the electronic speed controllers. So while it doesn't happen often,it can happen whether it be a good esc or the cheap Chinese ones.
@@jonlaird5082 wow, thanks... I will be careful I guess... or maybe just change the electronics... it's cheap rtr but kind of pricey as a roller one you get everything you need... hrm... Good story about traxxas... for some reason I've never bought one because I don't feel they're ethical... price per value isn't there... and too much plastic makes me feel more embarrassed to be playing with toys as an adult than I already am... lol... arrma/horizon would send a replacement esc without blinking, and you can see the money you pay when you open the box... just got the outcast 8s... only running it on 6s but with a slightly smaller spur... plenty of punch and speed... and the value is visible... wanted a big truck for the desert but xmaxx just looks like a plastic injection mold... I'm not paying $1k for that, no matter how awesome the performance is...
Them batterys are beast
Yeah, crazy!
Put a 8s system in it so we can see if the rest of the drivetrain can handle more power. Most rc hobbyist will upgrade their rigs when something breaks or just for the hell of more power..
Wow keep making these amazing videos
Thanks mate
@@TomleyRC No problem
Man awesome video m8 I like this car looks nice I thing I'd like two see a rally shell on it looks a good platform and if you don't whant the electrics like you said could get rolling chassis wounder what it would be like with a Castle set up in it 👍👍👍
I feel that you did Hoon it!!!!!!
So basically the ESC is underdimensioned and can't take the rated voltage on full throttle. You shouldn't limit it with a low rated battery because the voltage drop (in the battery) x current is the heat produced in the battery, basiclly wasted energy that also might ruin the battery. It is better to not charge the battery to 100%
I do like it! How are the tyres holding up? I have a mate with a new arrma infraction and the stock tyres lasted 1 or 2 sessions of about 20-30mins. Which is a little rough considering its $70+(AUD) for 2 tyres. I would really like to test these zd racing wheels/tyres out but there doesn't seem to be any replacement parts available yet.
Nice one of my favourite videos 👍
You couldn't have even watched the whole thing yet.. lol
Haha... cheers dude
It makes a huge difference what the ambient temperature is.
THE C RATING IS MORE LIKE THE OCTANE OF THE FUEL... THE AMPS IS LIKE THE MILAGE OR FUEL CUNSUMPTION .. I HAVE THE SD RACING 1/8 SCALE SHORT COURSE TRUCK THAT CAME OUT GREEN N BLUE AND IS NOW DISCONTINUED ... AND THE ESC BURNED UP N SO DID STOCK BATTERIES I HAVE PUT A WATER COOLED ESC IN IT THAT IS 6S
N THE MOTOR GETS HOT I HAVE A 19 OR 20TOOTH PINION I JUST GOT A 34 TOOTH PINION I HAD TO ORDER NEW DUMBO RC TX RX SO THATS INSTALLED THE BODY MELTED IN THE HEAT N WENT FLAT I JUST GOT MY NEW 1/8 SCALE VW BEETLE BODY FROM EBAY THE ONES THAT ARE 29.99ITS A LITTLE SMALL BUT I HAVE A BODY NOW .. I HAD TO REBUILD CENTER DIFF CUZ I SHREDDED THE PLASTIC SPUR I TOOK A KTM BUGGY CANTER DIFF N TOOK THE SPUR N PUT ON THE ZD RACING CENTER DIFF ONLY RUNNING IT ON 4S RIGHT NOW I JUST GOT NEW BATTERIES GRAPHENE 2S 100C 4000MAH I FIGURED I COULD USE WITH NO PREP DRAG CAR IM GOING TO BUILD FOR THE KING OF THE STREETS DRAG RACE THEY HAVE HELD HERE FOR 2 YEARS NOW N I MISSED THEM BECAUSE OF THIEVES.... BUT I JUST GOT A JOB ... I TOOK TRUCK TO TRACK N GOT REAR ENDED N MY BUGGY BODY FELL OFF N BATTERY CAME OUT THAT RUNS RECEIVER SO I WNT BACK THE OTHER NIGHT N THEN I NOTICED THE PARK TOOK OUT THE POWER SO NO MORE CHARGING N NO MORE LIGHTS AT NIGHT WHICH SUCKS.... N EXPLAINS WHY I ONLY SAW NITRO CARS ON TRACK O BATTERIES HAVE A LITTLE RUN TIME ON THEM SO IM GONNA GET THE BODY POSTS MOUNTED N DRIVE TRUCK N CHARGE IT UP FOR TRACK AT 6AM SO I ONLY HAVE 4.5 HOURS i would like to get this car your driving too... but after drag car i want the 1/5 rovan gas rc but ill see ..
Fascinating and educative vid thank you. But how long did it run for? You joked about 6 weeks, and (very clearly may I say) established capacity was all about run-time. So when Gensace sent you these bricks to review they presumably wanted you to emphasise a potential purchaser's motive for buying 15,000mah batteries i.e. longer run time. I was thinking on paper 15,000mah should last about 3 times longer than the 5,000mah (setting aside C rating and weight differences which would be relatively nominal) but did it? You did mention 30 mins filming at one point, but a conclusion would have been helpful.
This test was just for the ZD ESC... I will do a Runtime test as well soon to show what the extra capacity does 👍
But I do love this car... It's on my wishlist so that's my next purchase so thanks for the review...