Im glad that you said to Experiment with the offset other than saying f. E use 0.5mm coz there are people like me with a calibrated relatively precise printer and then using some premade models with *massive* tolerances to the point where f. E. M3 screw holes stop to work and stuff like that. Also - calibrate your printer itself, not the Design offset. So for cura its f. E. Horizontal expansion, and make it so the Design matches the reality. This helps a *ton* for modeling. Also if anyone makes tolerance critical designes either make sure to calibrate your printer or using f. E. Curas horizontal Expansion on a e3, or mention that you have tolarances calibrated to said printer. Especially on the lesser known Designs i see this issue a lot, and have to change the Design or scaling the Part (or Expansion offset) acordingly to Match that. I loooove Print in place Designs that are intentionally with tight tolerances cause these just plain work. And are not just a wobbly mess. That said, 0.2mm tolerance is indeed a good starting point for normal stuff - for tight cases and stuff like that i often use 0.1 (f. E. Brackets for my Lab psu/combo thing where i put pcbs with lcds in and stuff like that.)
Was the offset between the lid and the box drawn out in the initial sketch or in a setting somewhere? I followed along and now just stuck on the offset. Thanks for the great video.
Nice video. You give lots of numbers (6mm long, 2mm tall, etc). It would be good to know how you decided on them. And, especially, if you tried alternative numbers in the decision making process and how those numbers worked out. I want to get an intuitive understanding so I can use your technique in different situations. Thx
Thanks for the feedback and question. The key features to experiment with are the chamfer of the cut and the fillet of the extrusion for the snap features. Honestly, it’s a combination of trial and error, using a pair of calipers, and keeping the scale of the features within the feasible range of your print nozzle & printer (I’m using and Ender 3 with a 0.4 mm nozzle). Since each printer can be different, I’d suggest trying a small box to experiment with. It should be relatively quick to print, and enable you to iterate through some different dimensions.
The design was so easily elaborated chief! good going....
This should be more seen, extremely educational and useful!
That's the excellent demonstration
You've done a brilliant job, man I have not seen anything like this!!!!
Thank you for the video. Please make more video on interconnected parts
Im glad that you said to Experiment with the offset other than saying f. E use 0.5mm coz there are people like me with a calibrated relatively precise printer and then using some premade models with *massive* tolerances to the point where f. E. M3 screw holes stop to work and stuff like that. Also - calibrate your printer itself, not the Design offset. So for cura its f. E. Horizontal expansion, and make it so the Design matches the reality. This helps a *ton* for modeling.
Also if anyone makes tolerance critical designes either make sure to calibrate your printer or using f. E. Curas horizontal Expansion on a e3, or mention that you have tolarances calibrated to said printer.
Especially on the lesser known Designs i see this issue a lot, and have to change the Design or scaling the Part (or Expansion offset) acordingly to Match that.
I loooove Print in place Designs that are intentionally with tight tolerances cause these just plain work. And are not just a wobbly mess.
That said, 0.2mm tolerance is indeed a good starting point for normal stuff - for tight cases and stuff like that i often use 0.1 (f. E. Brackets for my Lab psu/combo thing where i put pcbs with lcds in and stuff like that.)
Well explained 👍
Amazing, thanks!~
Was the offset between the lid and the box drawn out in the initial sketch or in a setting somewhere? I followed along and now just stuck on the offset. Thanks for the great video.
Nice vid man, keep it up! subscribed
Thanks!
great vids, will you be making more?
Thank you
you too have a beautiful day
We used this method to fit parts, the only problem is orientation, more the usage the layers where the part snap wears off.
i need help i want to make a card holder for my switch games and want to make a slide cover can you do a tutorial for that
Hello . you can make a video designing a hinged box ? thanks
explained most complicated design with simplicity.
Nice video. You give lots of numbers (6mm long, 2mm tall, etc). It would be good to know how you decided on them. And, especially, if you tried alternative numbers in the decision making process and how those numbers worked out. I want to get an intuitive understanding so I can use your technique in different situations. Thx
Thanks for the feedback and question. The key features to experiment with are the chamfer of the cut and the fillet of the extrusion for the snap features.
Honestly, it’s a combination of trial and error, using a pair of calipers, and keeping the scale of the features within the feasible range of your print nozzle & printer (I’m using and Ender 3 with a 0.4 mm nozzle).
Since each printer can be different, I’d suggest trying a small box to experiment with. It should be relatively quick to print, and enable you to iterate through some different dimensions.
@@3dhobbee you printed this with a .4 nozzle? In the video you said .2 nozzle
@@br88dy 0.4 nozzle can print until 0.16 layer high....you can set it
hahahaha the cover doesn't work.😂