Generally speaking there are 3 physical ways of joining any part. 1. Form fit --> dove tails, snap fits, bow ties, typical wood joints, etc. 2. Friction or force bond --> screws, wedges, magnets, etc. 3. adhesive bond --> all types of glues, welds, soldering and melting It is best to combine them for example use a dove tail design to create a from fit for a strong connection and additionally use glue if the connection has to stay that way or wedges if you want to disassemble it some time later. Try to avoid using only one connection type and always remember the 3 connection types.
@@Cyromantik Way too complicated without any benefit. They look nice but meh. A dovetail + glue or dovetail + wedges accompolishes the same is easier to design and easier to print.
Never thought about embedded magnets and nuts, that's so cool! On top of simply using the bolt to thread a hole, you can tap the hole with a tap and die set.
Using pins to align if gluing works great! Also, using puzzle joints like bowties works ok too! Great video! Tapping holes is great when your hardware is too small to print threads, or when you don’t have enough space for heat-set inserts! Forcing threading can change your part tolerances! Tap tap tap!
Friction welding is another method that can be very useful in some situations. Hold the two parts together, and use something like a Dremmel tool to spin a small piece of the plastic material (either a segment of fairly thick filament, or what I do which is to print a small peg in the same filament) against the joint area. The friction of the plastic rapidly rotating against the printed parts will cause them to heat up and fuse together. It takes a little practice to do it well, but it can be a nice alternative to adhesives!
@@aa1589you should design in finding features. Simple holes on one part and a tapered pegs on the other. Or if peg is not printable, then holes on both and print the peg separately. Prusa slicer can also automatically generate them while splitting a model, though you might prefer to do it in CAD for more control.
This video is criminally underrated! Super informative and the video is very well put together. I haven't gotten into 3D printing yet, but man was this entertaining and educational anyways.
omg, I didn't know about heat-set inserts. That's great!
5 หลายเดือนก่อน +1
After several tries and fail with heated inserts, I found it much easier to use screw insert on fill length to long screw, for example, M3 30mm. Then using pliers hold the screw vertically and apply heat using solder to the top of the inset and push it into the plastic. A screw will prevent plastic from getting inside the insert hole. To extract the inset put a long screw into it and heat it. The plastic around the insert will melt and you will be able to pull the screw with the insert back
Great video, thanks! I especially liked the idea with inserting magnets into the print while printing. Such a good, clean idea for certain types of covers that have to be removed often without damaging or bending the plastic. Thanks.
This is a great channel, well presented, great quality content and regular uploads but for some reason it won't get on the TH-cam bandwagon/algorithm and gain the viewership it deserves! Hope it does so soon! Great tips.
Amazing video! Came here to learn about the basics of gluing 3D prints, next thing I'm learning about are hidden magnets and heat set inserts. Wow - Thanks.
There are many joints used in woodworking that work even better for 3D printing. Clever geometry that slides together, then holds super strong. For example, the classic dovetail can be modified to be even stronger and prettier for 3D printing.
From skimming through this, I have to point out two things: 1) I wholeheartedly despise the adhesives I've used, i.e. superglue. I don't know what superglue you're using, but the _various_ brands (and types - liquid and gel) of superglue I've used are by no means permanent and snap very easily. For a Colonial Marine breastplate I printed, it was like that Don't Break The Ice board game, and I wound up having to use thermoplastic to make backing plates and then gluing those over the lines between printed parts to make it more sturdy overall (and the glue at least worked for those, but it wasn't strong enough to hold individual parts on its own). 2) I'm positively _astonished_ by the fact that you didn't bring up the use of a soldering iron as a possible means to connect two or more parts, because after I gave up on the superglue and thermoplastic backing plate combo (though I might use backing plates since they actually work VERY well), I tried out this one video's technique of taping two parts together by their edges and then using a soldering iron to melt the plastic of both parts together. Just right from the get-go, they're 1,000,000x more durable than superglue (as in I did three drop tests of a prototype helmet before a piece broke off, whereas with superglue, all of the pieces would be all over the floor the second they hit the floor), and with a backing plate put in, that would only further reinforce them. That said, this was a pretty decent video and I like how it pointed out several things I hadn't thought of before, while also outlining what to keep in mind with doing those techniques.
Can you pleas make a video about how you implement snap fits? Is there maybe even a good plugin in Fusion360 for this (like it's easy to make threads, ...)?
What would be the best way to learn how to make snap fit joints? I am getting tired of adhesives lol. And do you know if those joints or something similar (think ball and socket, rod in hole) can be done in slic3r or meshmixer?
Nice video! Very well structured! I wonder what are the options with resin prints? Printing the screw directly in the print should be even easier as resin printers have even finer details, but I'm not sure how strong are resins vs metal bolts for example - what's the wear'n'tear with usage. Hot inserts don't work with resins unfortunatelly :/
With all due respect, brass inserts might be your favorite way to join printer parts, but you are using the incorrect inserts. You need those that have a smaller protruding smooth section, that matches the diameter of the hole, thereby making the insertions exactly centered in the hole, and not based on the way your iron is held.
I haven't tested this, and maybe you have something that works. You have a few ways to make threads in machining. Cut taps or form taps. (There are other ways, but they are not relevant.) Essentially what you are going is form tapping. For an example. A standard 1/4"-20 home would be drilled to .201" before tapping, with a cut tap. This is literally cutting metal away. The form tap just pushed metal into itself. And as you will be doing with the threads. That hole would be filled to .228" before tapping. Moral of the story, perhaps look up a form tap drill chart. Try those size holes for when you want to use a bolt to form the threads. I hope this makes sense. I don't think 3d printing and machining concepts are too far different.
What do you thinks its better for make a hand jonits, like an robotic or prosthetic flexible hand. I want to make a nice design that be durable to the work with it for a long period.
Self lubricated PTFE/serpentine nanocomposite - use 3d printer to print the mold (negative part) then cast the part using PTFE, best is injection molding but you can get away with a two part mold and use drip PTFE
Hey, first of all thank you for the video, great summary what to use, when and why. I have a question though - what software do you use foe splitting the stl files (2:25)
Hey thanks for watching! You can either split them with Fusion360 before exporting for slicing, or use the cut feature in PrusaSlicer to split them up into printable chunks. Hope that helps!
1:48 what are does holes for in the model i have the same for the model i try to asseble do i put stuff in im new so i dont know alot about the assembly process
1) a mention of cold welding ABS with acetone in the adhesives category would have been nice 2) why would you show the worst kind of heat set inserts there is? the ones with opposing slanted teeth are MUCH stronger
I find when I put threaded inserts in, the plastic gets into the threads themselves and then I have to carefully screw and unscrew the screw several times into it trying to loosen it out. This sometimes means overwhelming the bond on the outside and causing the whole thing to start spinning
@@ghostmateify not exactly sure what you mean, but I followed instructions pretty closely. Just noticed there was a pretty big difference between knowing the path, and walking the path if you get what I mean.
Two more offhand that didn't make the list: Zip-ties. Make aligned rectangular holes in the two parts. Optionally two more holes, or a channel if near an edge, for the return loop. Optionally inset a gap for the head to sit. Prusaslicer cut now has an option to generate a matched pin and socket, either with the pin attached to one side, or printed separately.
And cut the ratchet off a second Zip Tie head to use that second ratchet head to slide on to another zip tie tail length to then lock the two separate parts together.
Another way I could suggest doing it as well you could use either hot glue or say a pen to fill the hole. Make keyed holes. #\ /#. - top layer with - where part is split #/ \# - bottom part my #### When the two parts are together the upper cone meets the bottom. So you have a cone and an inverted cone. The inverted cone is on the bottom part. Then when the part just put together simply fill the void with hot glue for temporary and or plastic from a pen for more permanent connection. The advantage of this is then you could send off the surface and you never know the thing existed. Easy to put into the design. Just to circular cone is accessible on the surface so it can be filled. It's also way to secure a lot of internal components if you want something solid. You put in a mesh interior not for support etc but just pretty much empty space. Then fill it with resin
Another thing with using a resin pills you could have the locking parts hooked into a loops on the interior so when the resin finally flows around the inside and cures there's no way to take it apart
It's an idea I saw from when you're trying to lock two pieces of stone together you have a keyed surface that on it that you can chill out you pour metal into it it locks the two blocks together. Then you also have the other situation like pouring concrete with rebar. the bars there to hold it together but in this case you do it leave space for the 'rebar'. When you fill the resin in later, it locks it all together. Theoretically you could use an injection molder to do this part
...stripping threads (or breaking of heads of screws) is not unique to 3d printing. One of the easyest ways to bork your stuff, is lubricating your screws (with something like WD40) before tightenjng them to specified torque - as without the usual metal on metal friction eating away at the force created by the torque, you can output 2x (or more), and break stuff.
Generally speaking there are 3 physical ways of joining any part.
1. Form fit --> dove tails, snap fits, bow ties, typical wood joints, etc.
2. Friction or force bond --> screws, wedges, magnets, etc.
3. adhesive bond --> all types of glues, welds, soldering and melting
It is best to combine them for example use a dove tail design to create a from fit for a strong connection and additionally use glue if the connection has to stay that way or wedges if you want to disassemble it some time later. Try to avoid using only one connection type and always remember the 3 connection types.
Snap-fit joints opened up a whole new world for me. Thank you! 😄
Japanese wood joints are a great way to go too.
@@Cyromantik Way too complicated without any benefit. They look nice but meh. A dovetail + glue or dovetail + wedges accompolishes the same is easier to design and easier to print.
Never thought about embedded magnets and nuts, that's so cool! On top of simply using the bolt to thread a hole, you can tap the hole with a tap and die set.
Using pins to align if gluing works great! Also, using puzzle joints like bowties works ok too! Great video! Tapping holes is great when your hardware is too small to print threads, or when you don’t have enough space for heat-set inserts! Forcing threading can change your part tolerances! Tap tap tap!
I was reading the comments looking for more tips. His and yours are very helpful for me. Puzzle joints, I think I need to learn more about these.
Friction welding is another method that can be very useful in some situations. Hold the two parts together, and use something like a Dremmel tool to spin a small piece of the plastic material (either a segment of fairly thick filament, or what I do which is to print a small peg in the same filament) against the joint area. The friction of the plastic rapidly rotating against the printed parts will cause them to heat up and fuse together. It takes a little practice to do it well, but it can be a nice alternative to adhesives!
Thanks for the comment! Now that you mention it, I’ve actually used my soldering iron to melt pieces together in a similar way, and it worked great!
@@aa1589you should design in finding features. Simple holes on one part and a tapered pegs on the other. Or if peg is not printable, then holes on both and print the peg separately. Prusa slicer can also automatically generate them while splitting a model, though you might prefer to do it in CAD for more control.
Awesome, Thanks man
I'm making a license plate frame and i need to cut it in half in order to print the whole thing, so this helps out a lot
This video is criminally underrated! Super informative and the video is very well put together. I haven't gotten into 3D printing yet, but man was this entertaining and educational anyways.
omg, I didn't know about heat-set inserts. That's great!
After several tries and fail with heated inserts, I found it much easier to use screw insert on fill length to long screw, for example, M3 30mm. Then using pliers hold the screw vertically and apply heat using solder to the top of the inset and push it into the plastic. A screw will prevent plastic from getting inside the insert hole.
To extract the inset put a long screw into it and heat it. The plastic around the insert will melt and you will be able to pull the screw with the insert back
Expandable insert, screw and washer are another useful way to connect. Pretty strong and can be reused easily.
Great video, thanks!
I especially liked the idea with inserting magnets into the print while printing. Such a good, clean idea for certain types of covers that have to be removed often without damaging or bending the plastic.
Thanks.
Thanks for the comment! Glad you liked it!
This is a great channel, well presented, great quality content and regular uploads but for some reason it won't get on the TH-cam bandwagon/algorithm and gain the viewership it deserves! Hope it does so soon! Great tips.
Thanks for the comment, that means a lot!
Amazing video! Came here to learn about the basics of gluing 3D prints, next thing I'm learning about are hidden magnets and heat set inserts. Wow - Thanks.
Thanks for the comment, glad you found it helpful!
Inserts look great and clean!
Thanks for the comment! I agree, I love the look of the metal inserts!
There are many joints used in woodworking that work even better for 3D printing. Clever geometry that slides together, then holds super strong. For example, the classic dovetail can be modified to be even stronger and prettier for 3D printing.
That's a great idea, I'll have to look into doing that! Thanks for the idea!
From skimming through this, I have to point out two things:
1) I wholeheartedly despise the adhesives I've used, i.e. superglue. I don't know what superglue you're using, but the _various_ brands (and types - liquid and gel) of superglue I've used are by no means permanent and snap very easily. For a Colonial Marine breastplate I printed, it was like that Don't Break The Ice board game, and I wound up having to use thermoplastic to make backing plates and then gluing those over the lines between printed parts to make it more sturdy overall (and the glue at least worked for those, but it wasn't strong enough to hold individual parts on its own).
2) I'm positively _astonished_ by the fact that you didn't bring up the use of a soldering iron as a possible means to connect two or more parts, because after I gave up on the superglue and thermoplastic backing plate combo (though I might use backing plates since they actually work VERY well), I tried out this one video's technique of taping two parts together by their edges and then using a soldering iron to melt the plastic of both parts together. Just right from the get-go, they're 1,000,000x more durable than superglue (as in I did three drop tests of a prototype helmet before a piece broke off, whereas with superglue, all of the pieces would be all over the floor the second they hit the floor), and with a backing plate put in, that would only further reinforce them.
That said, this was a pretty decent video and I like how it pointed out several things I hadn't thought of before, while also outlining what to keep in mind with doing those techniques.
I've never 3d printed anything yet but this is great information. Thank you, sir
Thanks for the comment!
This was very informative and fun to watch
as someone who repairs Chromebook for a public school system for a living. Heat-inserts are the bane of my whole existence.
those are great. I would highly appreciate follow up videos showing how the design is done in a 3D modeling software
Thanks for the comment! I'll put that on the schedule!
El video más útil que me he encontrado sobre este tema, muchas gracias!
Can you pleas make a video about how you implement snap fits?
Is there maybe even a good plugin in Fusion360 for this (like it's easy to make threads, ...)?
That’s a good idea, thanks for the comment!
@@ModernHobbyist I thank you if you make it ✌🏻
And maybe you could write here a new comment as a reminder ⏰, so don't miss it 🙊
Very good information passed! Excellent job!
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
What would be the best way to learn how to make snap fit joints? I am getting tired of adhesives lol. And do you know if those joints or something similar (think ball and socket, rod in hole) can be done in slic3r or meshmixer?
Nice video! Very well structured!
I wonder what are the options with resin prints?
Printing the screw directly in the print should be even easier as resin printers have even finer details, but I'm not sure how strong are resins vs metal bolts for example - what's the wear'n'tear with usage.
Hot inserts don't work with resins unfortunatelly :/
Thanks for the useful video! What adhesive is the best for joining 3d printed parts? Super glue?
Cool video man, Great job!
Glad you liked it!
With all due respect, brass inserts might be your favorite way to join printer parts, but you are using the incorrect inserts. You need those that have a smaller protruding smooth section, that matches the diameter of the hole, thereby making the insertions exactly centered in the hole, and not based on the way your iron is held.
Excellent delivery and awesome tips. Hope your videos take off man
Thanks!!
I like plastically welding them together with a soldering iron then sand paper then primer and paint
Nice video!
Thanks!
great video!!!! thank you
I haven't tested this, and maybe you have something that works. You have a few ways to make threads in machining. Cut taps or form taps. (There are other ways, but they are not relevant.) Essentially what you are going is form tapping. For an example. A standard 1/4"-20 home would be drilled to .201" before tapping, with a cut tap. This is literally cutting metal away. The form tap just pushed metal into itself. And as you will be doing with the threads. That hole would be filled to .228" before tapping. Moral of the story, perhaps look up a form tap drill chart. Try those size holes for when you want to use a bolt to form the threads. I hope this makes sense. I don't think 3d printing and machining concepts are too far different.
This video is such a great resource!
Thanks for the comment!
What do you thinks its better for make a hand jonits, like an robotic or prosthetic flexible hand. I want to make a nice design that be durable to the work with it for a long period.
Self lubricated PTFE/serpentine nanocomposite - use 3d printer to print the mold (negative part) then cast the part using PTFE, best is injection molding but you can get away with a two part mold and use drip PTFE
Very educative and visionary video! You know how to use that machine :D.
Thank you very much!
Thanks. Great presentation!
Hey, first of all thank you for the video, great summary what to use, when and why. I have a question though - what software do you use foe splitting the stl files (2:25)
Hey thanks for watching! You can either split them with Fusion360 before exporting for slicing, or use the cut feature in PrusaSlicer to split them up into printable chunks. Hope that helps!
Fusion360 often f*** up the scale.
1:48 what are does holes for in the model i have the same for the model i try to asseble do i put stuff in im new so i dont know alot about the assembly process
1) a mention of cold welding ABS with acetone in the adhesives category would have been nice
2) why would you show the worst kind of heat set inserts there is? the ones with opposing slanted teeth are MUCH stronger
Great video. Thanks for the info.
AMAZING video tyvm saved me a lot of time!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
I find when I put threaded inserts in, the plastic gets into the threads themselves and then I have to carefully screw and unscrew the screw several times into it trying to loosen it out. This sometimes means overwhelming the bond on the outside and causing the whole thing to start spinning
Did you offset the thread?
@@ghostmateify not exactly sure what you mean, but I followed instructions pretty closely. Just noticed there was a pretty big difference between knowing the path, and walking the path if you get what I mean.
Very informative video and straight to the point thank you :)))
Top video 👌Heat set inserts you say....🤔
I use magnets a lot, a lot of uses.
What a useful and great video. Thank you so much. Keep posting
Thanks for the comment! Much appreciated!
@@ModernHobbyist I like to watch your videos. I've much appreciated it too.
Two more offhand that didn't make the list:
Zip-ties. Make aligned rectangular holes in the two parts. Optionally two more holes, or a channel if near an edge, for the return loop. Optionally inset a gap for the head to sit.
Prusaslicer cut now has an option to generate a matched pin and socket, either with the pin attached to one side, or printed separately.
Those are good ideas too! Didn’t know about the PrusaSlicer feature!
And cut the ratchet off a second Zip Tie head to use that second ratchet head to slide on to another zip tie tail length to then lock the two separate parts together.
Im building light up signs for businesses. Whats the best way to join my parts and disguise the line?
Re-heat the insert, and screw in a bolt, then just pull.
Much better than pillers.
How do I prevent magnet to get attached to the nozzle and stay on the print until the hole is closed?
Thanks bro!
You might want to look at plastite screws which are threaded screws that are designed for plastic.
Interesting thought! I'll look into it!
Thanks for the great (and extremely useful) video as always, keep the awesome content coming!
Thanks for the comment! It seriously means a lot!
Another way I could suggest doing it as well you could use either hot glue or say a pen to fill the hole.
Make keyed holes.
#\ /#. - top layer with
- where part is split
#/ \# - bottom part my
####
When the two parts are together the upper cone meets the bottom. So you have a cone and an inverted cone. The inverted cone is on the bottom part.
Then when the part just put together simply fill the void with hot glue for temporary and or plastic from a pen for more permanent connection. The advantage of this is then you could send off the surface and you never know the thing existed.
Easy to put into the design. Just to circular cone is accessible on the surface so it can be filled.
It's also way to secure a lot of internal components if you want something solid. You put in a mesh interior not for support etc but just pretty much empty space. Then fill it with resin
Another thing with using a resin pills you could have the locking parts hooked into a loops on the interior so when the resin finally flows around the inside and cures there's no way to take it apart
It's an idea I saw from when you're trying to lock two pieces of stone together you have a keyed surface that on it that you can chill out you pour metal into it it locks the two blocks together.
Then you also have the other situation like pouring concrete with rebar. the bars there to hold it together but in this case you do it leave space for the 'rebar'. When you fill the resin in later, it locks it all together. Theoretically you could use an injection molder to do this part
JB Weld, Sandpaper, Primer, wet sand, Hammerite.
yes, additionally 3D Pen with same material, snot glue or heat gun to weld and fuse two parts, pending the geometry
Can't you heat insert the magnets?
If you heat magnets past 180°, they won't be magnets anymore.
Completely skipped using dowels.
...stripping threads (or breaking of heads of screws) is not unique to 3d printing.
One of the easyest ways to bork your stuff, is lubricating your screws (with something like WD40) before tightenjng them to specified torque - as without the usual metal on metal friction eating away at the force created by the torque, you can output 2x (or more), and break stuff.
This is a well put together video, thanks! Do you have a Bitcoin Cash address for tips?
Design for Assembly (less is more) :)
Isn't a pen lid friction fit, not snap
Depends on the pen, but the majority of them are annular snap fits (at least from the pens I own).
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