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3D Hobbee
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 28 มี.ค. 2021
Fun with 3D Printers and Fusion 360
Fast Fusion 360 - Problems with Emboss? Pattern Shapes with Cuts and Extrude
Cutting a hole within your pattern, particularly a rotated sketch, can result in a slight offset between your features.
Here is an overview of issues I had with emboss and how I used the move tool with extrude to create a battery pattern on a body.
Thanks for watching!
Here is an overview of issues I had with emboss and how I used the move tool with extrude to create a battery pattern on a body.
Thanks for watching!
มุมมอง: 1 273
วีดีโอ
Fast Fusion 360 - Pattern on Path, Patterning Holes, and Lessons Learned
มุมมอง 2.9K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Adding a pattern to your body can be simple if it's a rectangular or circular shape, but what if you want to have your pattern follow another shape? Here are some quick tips for using pattern on path on bodies that are not a simple shape. Thanks for watching!
Fast Fusion 360 - 3D Print Hinges from a Single Sketch (and Snap Fit Lids!)
มุมมอง 133K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Today we will use Fusion 360 to make a hinge from a single sketch. The box and hinge can be printed together on your 3D Printer - no assembly required! We will also quickly add a snap closure to the lid and animate the rotation of the lid. Thanks for watching! 00:00 Intro 00:20 Sketch box and hinge 03:51 Extrude hinge parts 06:40 Shell command and the timeline 07:20 Snap fit lid 11:15 Animate r...
Fusion 360 - 3D Print your Picture! Add an SVG image to a model and make a unique coaster
มุมมอง 2.8K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Adding an image to your 3D model in Fusion 360 is a snap! Let's make a coaster with a relief image using an SVG file. We will also use sketch commands such as line and trim to clean up the SVG file. If you need to convert a JPG to SVG use convertio.co Then we will use commands such as extrude, shell, fillet, draft, and mirror to make a fun looking coaster for your desk or side table.
Fast Fusion 360 - Snap Fit Parts for 3D Printing
มุมมอง 110K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Today we will do a quick overview of snap fit parts in Fusion 360.
Great Video. Thank you very much.
I really like the way you explain and show everything step by step. You just earned a sub!
no click sound - no like, sorry 🤷♂
great tutorial im having a problem when i add the top hinge further down the line i lose my split line
dude, very helpful video. I'm in my first week of learning Fusion and this was great. Also taught me a good design for hinges for a small project I'm considering. Thanks! Subscribing for sure.
How can I move a body to be exactly on top of each other. Lets say I create 2 boxes and now I wanna move one to be directly on top of the other. I tried the move tool but when I pane in and out I can see that it's not really on top, it's separated still from each other
Can you print this on a prusa mini?
this shit is so complicted
Bzzz bzzz bzz, from a fellow hobeeeist, thank you! 🐝🐝
So useful! Thank you!
This actually worked really well! I made a few adjustments for clearance issues and used magnets for the latching but thank you for making this! You definitely explained this really well and there are some concepts as a bigger that you use here that make things so much easier when trying to design things.
What Mac are you using? Does it run fusion 360 well?
M1 MacBook Pro 13” - no issues running Fusion 360
longest 4 minute
This tutorial is great! Cant thank you enough for this.
Awesome tutorial. Thank you very much. I am going to try and make this box parametrical. Thanks again.
Could you give me the sizes of your lid and boxes? thx!
Thanks!
Anyone else’s hinges get offset from the center construction line after they put in the 45° angles?
Why the gap in between the “knuckle” and the pin? I get the gap where the center piece floats over it but there shouldn’t be a gap between the inner pin and the hole in the knuckle? Also, why not print it on its side ? Wouldn’t that be a better orientation and easier to manage tolerances ?? Circles are tough to print on the Z axis :) You can easily end up with flat spots on top and bottom of the holes where the filament sags. Especially when you don’t have supports :)
explained most complicated design with simplicity.
We used this method to fit parts, the only problem is orientation, more the usage the layers where the part snap wears off.
does it close tho?
Nice video, I have a project for my engineering class which requires a box to house a bread board for our electrical circuit and I’m gonna print a box like this with the hinge and snap lid just with a bigger box. Thank you!!!
He does a great job explaining. Shame it didn't work out for him to continue
Excellent tutorial, thank you
nice work
so the box cant shut? just followed the tutorial and made the box, will print soon and find out. thanks for the vid!
Great tutorial. Worked well. Did in PLA and the latch broke the first time I tried it, but it was more a learning experience than a functional thing.
You've done a brilliant job, man I have not seen anything like this!!!!
Very nice. Thank you.
Finally, a tutorial that walks through step by step in a nice methodical manner so I (very much a noob with fusion) can follow along and understand! I'm with @rache5399 in that I hope you get back into making these!
thanks for your tutorial, This is my first time with this process, from the design to the making with your printer, I hope to learn more from you, thanks
Im glad that you said to Experiment with the offset other than saying f. E use 0.5mm coz there are people like me with a calibrated relatively precise printer and then using some premade models with *massive* tolerances to the point where f. E. M3 screw holes stop to work and stuff like that. Also - calibrate your printer itself, not the Design offset. So for cura its f. E. Horizontal expansion, and make it so the Design matches the reality. This helps a *ton* for modeling. Also if anyone makes tolerance critical designes either make sure to calibrate your printer or using f. E. Curas horizontal Expansion on a e3, or mention that you have tolarances calibrated to said printer. Especially on the lesser known Designs i see this issue a lot, and have to change the Design or scaling the Part (or Expansion offset) acordingly to Match that. I loooove Print in place Designs that are intentionally with tight tolerances cause these just plain work. And are not just a wobbly mess. That said, 0.2mm tolerance is indeed a good starting point for normal stuff - for tight cases and stuff like that i often use 0.1 (f. E. Brackets for my Lab psu/combo thing where i put pcbs with lcds in and stuff like that.)
You have no idea how thankful I am for this video! When you said "let's add some snap fit parts to the box", I literally said "YESSS THANK YOU!!" out loud hahaha. I know these are from 2 years ago but they are still seriously appreciated and you did an amazing job of showing us noobs step by step. Would love more if you ever decide to hop back into it!
The pin in the hinge is not suited for 3d printing. It's much more reliable to model two conical knobs that goes into recessions instead.
@feelfreefpv I had to adjust some of my settings but the hinge did work perfectly for me. I would like to learn the method you speak of, seems much easier anyway
@@rache5399Nice that it worked out fine, those kind of long overhangs can be quite challenging to print. I made a similar box from another tutorial. The hinge in that model has no long pin through the hinge. Instead of extruding the long pin try extruding a round part and use taper angle to gove it a conical form. Make its staring diameter a bit thicker than the pin. The extrude should be about 5mm long. Mirror that extrude to the other side of the hinge. Now there is no need for a long hole through the hinge. Instead you make indents that corresponds to the extrudes you made. You can do that with the combine command (Cut, Keep Tools). As you need some clearance between the extrudes and the indents you can use Offset Face on the surfaces inside the indent. Push it to get a little bit larger (about 0,3-0,4mm will be enough). Not sure how easy that was to follow without any pictures 😅
@@feelfreefpvdo you have an example I could look at? I’m brand new to this and having a hard time googling my way into learning about this specific technique you are describing
great tutorial, thanks a ton, now my cat cant turn my computer off anymore.
fantastic video thankyou, very good for beginners!
Love this and this is what I am looking for however, when i create the first hinge, and join it when extruding, it joins to the box and the split disappears, creating a solid box once again. Any ideas?
you need to hide the second part when doing the extrusion as the “join” function will join all touching bodies while extruding… you can also repair it by editing the feature in history and hiding the part there…
@@oliverkatreniak8480thank you! Just the bit of information I needed.
hahahaha the cover doesn't work.😂
great vids, will you be making more?
Thanks, 👍✌🖖🥃
i noticed it was very stiff once it was 3D printed, is there a way to avoid that?
you too have a beautiful day
Amazing Tutorial!
such a good tutorial
Thank you. I came here to learn about hinges and wound up learning a number of Fusion 360 techniques that I had not yet explored. You blunt "do this, do that" style gets to the point very effectively. And even some nice jazz to cover the printing, rather than ear shattering duffa duffa music!
Was the offset between the lid and the box drawn out in the initial sketch or in a setting somewhere? I followed along and now just stuck on the offset. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks for a great Video hopefully you get more subs and will start making more fusion tutorials :).
Simple, to the point, and clear instructions.
Whenever I first extrude from the hinge, it deletes the TOP body. How do i fix this?
It doesn't delete it, it just hides it. You can make it visible again by clicking the unhide icon, as demonstrated in the video at the hinge extrusion step.