I’m a bib guy. Works out for the warmer days then I can go with a bib and flannel/ long sleeve and still get a ton of waterproof coverage. You should check out the side-entry bibs like Patagonia Pow Slayers, makes bathroom trips a little easier.
I am pretty sure your bib has the drop seat feature ! I have last seasons Avalon bib and I use the zippers on the side and undo the button to just drop the back of the bib to easily use the restroom. Not sure if I'm explaining this well, but its the reason why I choose these bibs! The drop seat feature is so convenient!
Your comment just made my day!!! Thank you SO much for watching! I’m so glad my videos have been helpful! If you have any specific questions you need me to cover in a video, let me know! I hope you enjoy snowboarding as much as I do! ❤️
I finally purchased snowbibs from Dicks, their DSG brand for 50$, best snow pants purchase. Never going back to pants, bibs all the way. I think more should purchase, too many cracks are seen in pants at the ski lodges. 😂
Only the last one is OK if you stop riding as soon as conditions get a bit harsh. Seeing the Gore-Tex version of your Burton's bib could easily face whatever weather, and costs 300$, it means you have spent 70$ more to not have a great protection. In fact you could have had such protection with 200$ pants, and use the resting 170$ for your vest. I see you've done a following video, I'll make a guess how it went before watching it... Option 1 : you didn't ride that much and/or had great conditions, and you were happy with your bib, but not that much with the 2 other pants. Option 2 : you tried to ride seriously, and/or had bad weather, you felt miserably cold, leading you to quit or go for option 3. Option 3 : you bought a serious pair of pants and had a blast whatever conditions and activity level and duration you experienced. If you want to find the set you really need, you must know your real needs and the 3 factors your clothes must respond to : waterproofing, breathability and durability. If you want to review products seriously and teach people what is a good snowboard soft-shell, you need it even more. But you also have to consider the benefit/pollution ratio, as polluting the planet with highly toxic chemicals, and contributing to global warming making your clothes come from Chinese factories, is not compatible with caring about weather (starting by having snow...), biodiversity, public health etc. Meaning a conscious snowboarder also has to think : I need very effective and long lasting pieces of gear in order to get what I need and avoid what I don't, and make it last the longest I can, in order to limit my toxic impact. Buying 2 useless pants and not getting the best bib you could have, pushing you at some point to buy a forth pair of pants, is just a waste of pollution as there is not much benefits. WATERPROOFING Expressed in milometers (mm) measuring the needed high of a column of water to build enough pressure to make water go through the fabric. In fact we should see it as the amount of any force needed to push the water through a fabric, because it can be produced by water pressure, but also wind pressure (wind + our speed), body weight pressure (falling, seating etc). Meaning a 5.000mm fabric will resist to a light rain when walking, but not when going downhill. As all values are by thousands we tend to talk about waterproof K (5.000mm = 5K, 10.000 = 10K etc). Below 5.000 millimeters of water column, (like the first one probably) : not waterproofed. = Only good for walking in the resort or riding some hours in perfect conditions (not a whole day). 5.0000mm (like the second one, maybe going up to 8.000?) : waterproof to medium rains IF you don't move fast and don't fall. = OK for mellow riding in optimal conditions few days a year. 10.000mm (like the Burton bib) = waterproof to medium rains AND going fast (but don't seat too long...) = this is the minimum waterproofing you want, and you should go for it if you already have something better for most days. 20.000mm = waterproof whatever the weather and speed, can hold some compression on snow, can stay dry(ish) several days in a row. = that's the basic you really need 30.000mm and above = extreme waterproof = now we are talking backcountry freeride in harsh conditions. If you had take the Gore Tex version of your bib you would have a pant around 30.000mm, if not more depending on Gore's type... BREATHABILITY Observed as moisture vapor transmission rate (MVTR, the higher the better) or as resistance to evaporation rate (RET, the lower the better). Like waterproofing, MVTR unit is often express with a "K". A 30.000 grams of water evaporation by square meter of fabric, by day, is a "30K MVTR", or just K witch can be confusing... MVTR > 30k (RET < 6) : extremely breathy That wont happen with a 10.000mm membrane and above. MVTR 30 to 20K (RET 6 to 12) : breathy That's often what you got with 10 to 20.000mm membranes, and with high end membranes like some Gore-Tex coming with a 28.000mm water column and 25.000g MVTR (8 RET) MVTR 20K to 10K (RET 13 to 20) : somewhat breathy Comes with bad fabrics or very waterproofed ones but with middle range techs, like PFTE membranes. MVTR > 5K (RET > 20) : not breathy, like, at all... Only good for some reinforcement pieces. Way too hermetic to make any sport gear, unless you want to aggressively lose weight by sweating a lot (some martial art athletes may "enjoy" this, not riders). With the Gore-Tex version of Burton's bib you would at least have a RET of 8, witch may be pretty close to the version you got, maybe even a bit better, but with 3 times more waterproofing. WATERPROOFING/BREATHABILITY So we got a waterproof "K" and a Breathability "K", it can be confusing and people (even - or especially - sales people) can mix it wrong. A so called 20K/10K, means you got 20.000mm of "waterproofing" and a 10.000g of "breathability" because that's the most common and usefull norm in the industry. In doubt, find a way to be sure about what value is used first and last by someone using such expression. But when you got it right you can figure a lot about almost any fabric quality on the market : 5K/25K : A pretty breathy light rain protection. Great for good conditions hikes. Can be achieved by some good natural fabrics. 5K/15K : A bad light rain fabric, or a very elastic or sturdy one witch can be great despite how weak waterproofing is. 5K/10K : Poor to very poor fabric. 10K/25K : Very descent "snowboard membrane", especially if very sturdy. May ask for waterproofing reinforcement on some parts. 10K/15K : Very basic fabric unless very sturdy. 10K/10K : Even for a cheap product, this is bad. 20K/25K : Serious all conditions contender. Not the best in all categories, but doing great on every front. 20K/15K : That's not too bad, adding vents will make it nice. 20K/10K : Basic harsh conditions fabric. 30K/25K : Only achieved by very few, top of the line, Gore-Tex products. 30K/15K : Basic Gore-Tex, and some very good "Gore alternatives" (Neoshell etc) 30K/10K : Descent Gore alternative, may be awesome if very sturdy. DURABILITY There are many ways to observe how resistant a fabric can be. And there are several technologies to answer each kind of aggression a fabric can face. To make it easy I use a 5 level scale including resistance to stretch, abrasion, cuts, chemical reactions, UV... but it all depends on your needs. For Ski/Snowboard I tend to observe : 1 : fragile (light coton, whool etc) Don't even think about it. 2 : somewhat resistant (strong coton, light polyester...) Lot of ski/snowboard clothes are at that level, and it's not a good thing. 3 : resistant (light ripstop, light cordura...) That's the minimal level you should look at. 4 : sturdy (cordura 500D and above...) Pretty good for important reinforcements like butt, knees, heels, elbows and forearms. 5 : insanely rugged (kevlar/aramid) Too expensive and heavy, but awesome for special pieces like the palms of a pair of gloves. To have an idea of economic value, it would cost you about 200 to 250$ to sew by yourself a pant AND a vest, with a 20K /25K and 3 to 4 of durability (+ silky liner, elastic parts, some strategic pieces of polartec for warm pockets, inner mesh pockets, abrasion reinforcements, sturdy waterproof zippers, sturdy sewing thread etc). Witch makes a 100 to 125$ for a great all season/all conditions pant. The difference you'll give to a brand to make it for you (and a big part of basic costs as brands pay way less by getting huge amounts of fabrics) will go to pay the work (most often in China, so... not that much), invest in R&D, pay for marketing (that we work for each time we show around big brands logos and names, wearing their adverts for free on our body, and feeling "cool" thanks of it...), and of course to benefit investors and share holders, business is about profit. Then it's up to you to evaluate if a product price is fair or not. It all depends on how much you know what you buy, how much money you can spend, and how much you care about toxic wastes and human exploitation...
@@Jack-sn1jt When it comes to clothes : pretty much like snowboard wear. Just some additions like inner heels protections so fabrics last way longer despite friction between heels. Especially useful for touring skis.
Literally thank you so much for writing out this detailed overview of ski wear w/ technical aspects. I had no idea how waterproof measurement really worked. I’m getting ready to invest the hundreds of $$$ needed for quality skiwear that I will wear for years to come. Again, thank you the time you invested in writing this post.
You get what you pay for. Those mentioned are mostly shtty pants. Not even middle of the line. No. Do not believe it just because an influencer said so. Jesus.
Every outer layer for skiing/snowboarding I’ve had was Burton
I’m a bib guy. Works out for the warmer days then I can go with a bib and flannel/ long sleeve and still get a ton of waterproof coverage. You should check out the side-entry bibs like Patagonia Pow Slayers, makes bathroom trips a little easier.
I’ve totally been converted to the bibs too! They’re just so easy!
I’ll take a look! Thanks so much for watching!
“No snow pants were soiled in the making of this video” made me laugh out loud. Bravo, friend
Ha ha ha! You’re the absolute best! 😂
I am pretty sure your bib has the drop seat feature ! I have last seasons Avalon bib and I use the zippers on the side and undo the button to just drop the back of the bib to easily use the restroom. Not sure if I'm explaining this well, but its the reason why I choose these bibs! The drop seat feature is so convenient!
Ha ha ha! Stephany! Too funny!!! I’ll have to check it out! How did I miss this?! 🙈😂 You may have just changed my life! 😂
I am new to snowboarding and your videos are the only ones I watch, I have learned so much so thank you. This will be my first season.
Your comment just made my day!!! Thank you SO much for watching! I’m so glad my videos have been helpful! If you have any specific questions you need me to cover in a video, let me know!
I hope you enjoy snowboarding as much as I do! ❤️
Great video, very entertaining as usual.
Ah, thank you so much for watching!
I finally purchased snowbibs from Dicks, their DSG brand for 50$, best snow pants purchase. Never going back to pants, bibs all the way. I think more should purchase, too many cracks are seen in pants at the ski lodges. 😂
Another awesome video
Thank you!!! That really means so much!
Do you wear jeans underneath your snow pants?
LOL! I can see how that would be confusing! 😂 No. Not when I’m on the mountain, I was just chilling at home when I filmed it! 🙈😂
Only the last one is OK if you stop riding as soon as conditions get a bit harsh. Seeing the Gore-Tex version of your Burton's bib could easily face whatever weather, and costs 300$, it means you have spent 70$ more to not have a great protection. In fact you could have had such protection with 200$ pants, and use the resting 170$ for your vest.
I see you've done a following video, I'll make a guess how it went before watching it...
Option 1 : you didn't ride that much and/or had great conditions, and you were happy with your bib, but not that much with the 2 other pants.
Option 2 : you tried to ride seriously, and/or had bad weather, you felt miserably cold, leading you to quit or go for option 3.
Option 3 : you bought a serious pair of pants and had a blast whatever conditions and activity level and duration you experienced.
If you want to find the set you really need, you must know your real needs and the 3 factors your clothes must respond to : waterproofing, breathability and durability. If you want to review products seriously and teach people what is a good snowboard soft-shell, you need it even more.
But you also have to consider the benefit/pollution ratio, as polluting the planet with highly toxic chemicals, and contributing to global warming making your clothes come from Chinese factories, is not compatible with caring about weather (starting by having snow...), biodiversity, public health etc.
Meaning a conscious snowboarder also has to think : I need very effective and long lasting pieces of gear in order to get what I need and avoid what I don't, and make it last the longest I can, in order to limit my toxic impact. Buying 2 useless pants and not getting the best bib you could have, pushing you at some point to buy a forth pair of pants, is just a waste of pollution as there is not much benefits.
WATERPROOFING
Expressed in milometers (mm) measuring the needed high of a column of water to build enough pressure to make water go through the fabric.
In fact we should see it as the amount of any force needed to push the water through a fabric, because it can be produced by water pressure, but also wind pressure (wind + our speed), body weight pressure (falling, seating etc). Meaning a 5.000mm fabric will resist to a light rain when walking, but not when going downhill. As all values are by thousands we tend to talk about waterproof K (5.000mm = 5K, 10.000 = 10K etc).
Below 5.000 millimeters of water column, (like the first one probably) : not waterproofed.
= Only good for walking in the resort or riding some hours in perfect conditions (not a whole day).
5.0000mm (like the second one, maybe going up to 8.000?) : waterproof to medium rains IF you don't move fast and don't fall.
= OK for mellow riding in optimal conditions few days a year.
10.000mm (like the Burton bib) = waterproof to medium rains AND going fast (but don't seat too long...)
= this is the minimum waterproofing you want, and you should go for it if you already have something better for most days.
20.000mm = waterproof whatever the weather and speed, can hold some compression on snow, can stay dry(ish) several days in a row.
= that's the basic you really need
30.000mm and above = extreme waterproof
= now we are talking backcountry freeride in harsh conditions.
If you had take the Gore Tex version of your bib you would have a pant around 30.000mm, if not more depending on Gore's type...
BREATHABILITY
Observed as moisture vapor transmission rate (MVTR, the higher the better) or as resistance to evaporation rate (RET, the lower the better). Like waterproofing, MVTR unit is often express with a "K". A 30.000 grams of water evaporation by square meter of fabric, by day, is a "30K MVTR", or just K witch can be confusing...
MVTR > 30k (RET < 6) : extremely breathy
That wont happen with a 10.000mm membrane and above.
MVTR 30 to 20K (RET 6 to 12) : breathy
That's often what you got with 10 to 20.000mm membranes, and with high end membranes like some Gore-Tex coming with a 28.000mm water column and 25.000g MVTR (8 RET)
MVTR 20K to 10K (RET 13 to 20) : somewhat breathy
Comes with bad fabrics or very waterproofed ones but with middle range techs, like PFTE membranes.
MVTR > 5K (RET > 20) : not breathy, like, at all...
Only good for some reinforcement pieces. Way too hermetic to make any sport gear, unless you want to aggressively lose weight by sweating a lot (some martial art athletes may "enjoy" this, not riders).
With the Gore-Tex version of Burton's bib you would at least have a RET of 8, witch may be pretty close to the version you got, maybe even a bit better, but with 3 times more waterproofing.
WATERPROOFING/BREATHABILITY
So we got a waterproof "K" and a Breathability "K", it can be confusing and people (even - or especially - sales people) can mix it wrong. A so called 20K/10K, means you got 20.000mm of "waterproofing" and a 10.000g of "breathability" because that's the most common and usefull norm in the industry. In doubt, find a way to be sure about what value is used first and last by someone using such expression. But when you got it right you can figure a lot about almost any fabric quality on the market :
5K/25K : A pretty breathy light rain protection. Great for good conditions hikes. Can be achieved by some good natural fabrics.
5K/15K : A bad light rain fabric, or a very elastic or sturdy one witch can be great despite how weak waterproofing is.
5K/10K : Poor to very poor fabric.
10K/25K : Very descent "snowboard membrane", especially if very sturdy. May ask for waterproofing reinforcement on some parts.
10K/15K : Very basic fabric unless very sturdy.
10K/10K : Even for a cheap product, this is bad.
20K/25K : Serious all conditions contender. Not the best in all categories, but doing great on every front.
20K/15K : That's not too bad, adding vents will make it nice.
20K/10K : Basic harsh conditions fabric.
30K/25K : Only achieved by very few, top of the line, Gore-Tex products.
30K/15K : Basic Gore-Tex, and some very good "Gore alternatives" (Neoshell etc)
30K/10K : Descent Gore alternative, may be awesome if very sturdy.
DURABILITY
There are many ways to observe how resistant a fabric can be. And there are several technologies to answer each kind of aggression a fabric can face.
To make it easy I use a 5 level scale including resistance to stretch, abrasion, cuts, chemical reactions, UV... but it all depends on your needs. For Ski/Snowboard I tend to observe :
1 : fragile (light coton, whool etc)
Don't even think about it.
2 : somewhat resistant (strong coton, light polyester...)
Lot of ski/snowboard clothes are at that level, and it's not a good thing.
3 : resistant (light ripstop, light cordura...)
That's the minimal level you should look at.
4 : sturdy (cordura 500D and above...)
Pretty good for important reinforcements like butt, knees, heels, elbows and forearms.
5 : insanely rugged (kevlar/aramid)
Too expensive and heavy, but awesome for special pieces like the palms of a pair of gloves.
To have an idea of economic value, it would cost you about 200 to 250$ to sew by yourself a pant AND a vest, with a 20K /25K and 3 to 4 of durability (+ silky liner, elastic parts, some strategic pieces of polartec for warm pockets, inner mesh pockets, abrasion reinforcements, sturdy waterproof zippers, sturdy sewing thread etc). Witch makes a 100 to 125$ for a great all season/all conditions pant.
The difference you'll give to a brand to make it for you (and a big part of basic costs as brands pay way less by getting huge amounts of fabrics) will go to pay the work (most often in China, so... not that much), invest in R&D, pay for marketing (that we work for each time we show around big brands logos and names, wearing their adverts for free on our body, and feeling "cool" thanks of it...), and of course to benefit investors and share holders, business is about profit. Then it's up to you to evaluate if a product price is fair or not. It all depends on how much you know what you buy, how much money you can spend, and how much you care about toxic wastes and human exploitation...
I don’t have any idea about skiing
@@Jack-sn1jt When it comes to clothes : pretty much like snowboard wear. Just some additions like inner heels protections so fabrics last way longer despite friction between heels. Especially useful for touring skis.
Literally thank you so much for writing out this detailed overview of ski wear w/ technical aspects. I had no idea how waterproof measurement really worked. I’m getting ready to invest the hundreds of $$$ needed for quality skiwear that I will wear for years to come. Again, thank you the time you invested in writing this post.
0:02 😂😂😂
You get what you pay for. Those mentioned are mostly shtty pants. Not even middle of the line. No. Do not believe it just because an influencer said so. Jesus.
Ha! Listen, I just bought the three in the top-sellers section. 🤷♀️
You just jealous you can’t make funnt and honest content like she does. Love her!