Excellent work as always Mr Walker! It's always fascinating following failures and diagnosis stuff. I love it! My opinion would be to pressure vac test it before running to reduce the risk of blowing the new cylinder. But that just me being paranoid. Also are you going to put the decomp back in for your Arb mate? He might want it if he uses the saw while climbing. He might not though. Anyway im very interested to see how this goes! Keep up the good work!
You could see straight away that was an oem cylinder, the casting, the part number visible and the A stamped in the top. I'd say that IS the original cylinder it's never done alot. I'd definitely clean up that cylinder, it'll be 100% better than an aftermarket in performance and life expectancy. Only use genuine seals and gaskets especially on a saw like that. Aftermarket won't last or seal as reliably, they're not worth the hassle trust me👍💪
Shows you how few Stihls I've got into 😂 it was too clean in there for a 20 yr old saw I think. Yeah I hear ya on the cylinder.. but cost was an issue for the guy having sunk so much into it already.. I'll definitely keep that cylinder though, I think it's salvageable.
The 044 was decent, unless you had to run em in winter. They liked to ice the carb, unless you let idle for 5 or 10 minutes before revving. The 046 was a vast improvement in filtration, and runabilty.
i ran a ms440 at work for a couple years, really sluggish. Alright with a 20" but pretty pants with the 25" on. Most likely had issues or wanted a tune up but hindsight is bliss ay.
You never mentioned what the point of the big bore cylinder was? Im looking at the 50mm or 52mm kit for my 441. Does the 52 just add more power? Is there any problem with going any larger than stock?
Did you ever get a chance to perform a vacuum or pressure test before you remove the top end, could have been crank seals, head gasket or make sure to check the vacuum line underneath the intake boot. They sometimes become hard over time losing there flexibility and little cracks form ,had that problem on a 026 that i bought cheap on eBay. The top end looked just like what you were working with on this 044. When I started out rebuilding saws and porting them one of the first tools I bought was a vacuum pressure testing kit to eliminate all the guessing out of the equation. Whenever I end up with a saw that has a bad top end the first thing I perform is a vacuum pressure test, hope you do the same to save the headache and money. Thanks for the time you put into making this video along with your information, hope I'm not another one of those annoying commenters that are bothersome most of the time. Keep up the good work along with your videos and hope you enjoy this new year we have been blessed with, JH
My top choice would be highway from wolf creek saw shop. Ryan does a pop up for the 200T www.wolfcreeksawshop.com/product/hyway-pop-up-piston-kit-for-stihl-200-200t-020t-40mm-extra-compression/
Haha do you knownwhat, I've never run any stihl! Don't know why it's just sort of happened. Definitely interested in some of the vintage ones like 051 av, I think the brand being so well known means they always tend to go for a bit more even the non runners
Well, I don't know about anyone else, but the inside of the piston was dry as a bone, as was the crank chamber and the bearing as well . This tells me it was run with little to no oil or was adjusted to lean .
That saw looks pretty simple to work on as you said it just slides off. It will be interesting to see wait the pressure test shows, will you go back in and do the crank seals?
@@walkerscountrylife You have a pressure and vac kit now don't you? It could be that the previous owner did not run it very well. I am glad the 440 lives. I spoke with Ryan (WCSS)today yep really helpful.
Sorry you wanted to see that part and I didn't show it. If you're specifically wanting to see how the cylinder goes off and on I can make a video to show that. Thanks for taking the time to comment though, I really appreciate it.
If it wasn't straight gassed & doesn't have an air leak - it looks like it was run lean - muffler appears to be very dry inside. What are the carb jets set at?? You hit the nail on the head with the myth of the 044s - seems to be a cult owner/fan boy thing. I've got a 10mm, slant fin, red lever, blahblahblah and my 440 keeps up with it - no problem...
Good job. I appreciate your enthusiasm and dedication to chainsaws.
Thankyou John, in turn I very much appreciate your view, and especially your taking the time to comment
Top tip. Mityvac the saw BEFORE you tear it down. Then your finding your actual leak and not guessing at where the leak came from.
And not pulling the saw down twice!
Yeah I can see that mate, but you've got to do it after it's back together anyway to check it's good..
@@walkerscountrylife one teardown and one rebuild beats two teardowns and two rebuilds. 😃😃😉
Excellent work as always Mr Walker! It's always fascinating following failures and diagnosis stuff. I love it!
My opinion would be to pressure vac test it before running to reduce the risk of blowing the new cylinder. But that just me being paranoid. Also are you going to put the decomp back in for your Arb mate? He might want it if he uses the saw while climbing. He might not though.
Anyway im very interested to see how this goes! Keep up the good work!
Thankyou! Yeah for sure I'll be pressure vac testing it!! I'll ask him about the decomp.. but with 150psi compression it'll be fine.
Good content that . Itching to hear it run
Thanks Dan, you won't have to wait long to find out whether it does or not..
You could see straight away that was an oem cylinder, the casting, the part number visible and the A stamped in the top.
I'd say that IS the original cylinder it's never done alot. I'd definitely clean up that cylinder, it'll be 100% better than an aftermarket in performance and life expectancy.
Only use genuine seals and gaskets especially on a saw like that. Aftermarket won't last or seal as reliably, they're not worth the hassle trust me👍💪
Shows you how few Stihls I've got into 😂 it was too clean in there for a 20 yr old saw I think. Yeah I hear ya on the cylinder.. but cost was an issue for the guy having sunk so much into it already.. I'll definitely keep that cylinder though, I think it's salvageable.
The 044 was decent, unless you had to run em in winter. They liked to ice the carb, unless you let idle for 5 or 10 minutes before revving. The 046 was a vast improvement in filtration, and runabilty.
I really want to build something on that xhassis
i ran a ms440 at work for a couple years, really sluggish. Alright with a 20" but pretty pants with the 25" on. Most likely had issues or wanted a tune up but hindsight is bliss ay.
I really want to like them.. they have such a massive reputation!
You never mentioned what the point of the big bore cylinder was? Im looking at the 50mm or 52mm kit for my 441. Does the 52 just add more power? Is there any problem with going any larger than stock?
It's really just a cheaper way of getting one levels of power.
Did you ever get a chance to perform a vacuum or pressure test before you remove the top end, could have been crank seals, head gasket or make sure to check the vacuum line underneath the intake boot. They sometimes become hard over time losing there flexibility and little cracks form ,had that problem on a 026 that i bought cheap on eBay. The top end looked just like what you were working with on this 044. When I started out rebuilding saws and porting them one of the first tools I bought was a vacuum pressure testing kit to eliminate all the guessing out of the equation. Whenever I end up with a saw that has a bad top end the first thing I perform is a vacuum pressure test, hope you do the same to save the headache and money. Thanks for the time you put into making this video along with your information, hope I'm not another one of those annoying commenters that are bothersome most of the time. Keep up the good work along with your videos and hope you enjoy this new year we have been blessed with, JH
Thanks much appreciate the comment, Ive put a new top end on it now but will pressure check before running.
ive got to buy a new cyclinder and piston for my ms200T sometime, any recommendations on brand?
My top choice would be highway from wolf creek saw shop. Ryan does a pop up for the 200T
www.wolfcreeksawshop.com/product/hyway-pop-up-piston-kit-for-stihl-200-200t-020t-40mm-extra-compression/
Ryan at Wolf Creek seems really helpful I spoke with him today.
If I can't get good oem stihl parts ,I go with meteor.
Haha do you knownwhat, I've never run any stihl! Don't know why it's just sort of happened. Definitely interested in some of the vintage ones like 051 av, I think the brand being so well known means they always tend to go for a bit more even the non runners
I think they're definitely more money second hand than husky! 051/045 are cool saws.. bit vibey..
@@walkerscountrylife definitely not work saws ey
Well, I don't know about anyone else, but the inside of the piston was dry as a bone, as was the crank chamber and the bearing as well . This tells me it was run with little to no oil or was adjusted to lean .
Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I really appreciate it.
I agree, very dry. In the next video ill change the fuel and check the jets.
You better do a vacuum,,pressure test before you get on.
That saw looks pretty simple to work on as you said it just slides off. It will be interesting to see wait the pressure test shows, will you go back in and do the crank seals?
Yes very simple really Patrick. Really confused about what's wrong with it!
@@walkerscountrylife You have a pressure and vac kit now don't you? It could be that the previous owner did not run it very well. I am glad the 440 lives. I spoke with Ryan (WCSS)today yep really helpful.
I guess great work because you cut out the part where you took it off and put the new one on so yeah didn't see anything
Sorry you wanted to see that part and I didn't show it. If you're specifically wanting to see how the cylinder goes off and on I can make a video to show that. Thanks for taking the time to comment though, I really appreciate it.
If it wasn't straight gassed & doesn't have an air leak - it looks like it was run lean - muffler appears to be very dry inside. What are the carb jets set at??
You hit the nail on the head with the myth of the 044s - seems to be a cult owner/fan boy thing. I've got a 10mm, slant fin, red lever, blahblahblah and my 440 keeps up with it - no problem...
I thought the same.. looks very dry.
Haha that 044 paragraph made me laugh. That like 50% of the 044 threads I've read!
👍🆙JW
👍🆙DR!