Thanks for he video it was helpful, one question how much do you think that the same amount of body that you have (shell) how much does it weigh?? I have mins on a trailer and need to get to my left and I was wondering if 4 guys can move from the trailer off to my left
That is a good question.. The body off the frame is not that heavy. If you remove the bumper and fenders, four guys can easily move it. I would say about 300 pounds. Don't forget most of the weight is in the engine, transmission. and the rear axle. I hope this helps. All the best..
Fyi One click on the Torque wrench only. not critical on body mounts but critical on parts like rear dif or engine bolts , one click. keep up the good work.
They should be a little tight so you could stick them in hole. you're going to need some effort but not too much where they're going to rip or tear. I got mine from OPG. I am going to use poly mounts probably from energy suspension
I lift the front of the body with the firewall brackets. The rear, I lift from the trunk latch. Drop the frame and pull it out from underneath and then support it. Making sure the body is level so it doesn't fall. There's a video where the upper body is supported from the roof Rafters. I ran boards through the front and rear window at one point and supported it that way as well. A bunch of different ways you can do it. I also made brackets that fit underneath the rocker panel with notches and I supported the body that way as well. Thanks for commenting , I hope this helps. All the best
Hi. I replaced the mounts on my A-body convertible some years ago. Everything went smoothly, but on the rubber biscuits without bolts (above the rear axle area), the rubber and the body don't make direct contact. Is that normal, for example to allow for body flex? The new biscuits and the original biscuits were the same height. The car looks and drives right, so it's hard to imagine the body was bent, but I've always had that fear. Thanks.
Hi fofiftyfive. Yes, the bushings were tight when I remove them from my frame. When I replaced the new trunk pan and floor pan. I noticed there's a 1/4 inch gap between the Rubber Biscuit in the area. I am going to make a aluminum spacer. I'm going to install. I don't want anybody Flex after I paint the car. Did you notice any paint cracking from the body flexing on yours? All the best
@@classicrewind2715 Hey! Thanks for the swift reply. I'm not sure we're speaking of the same thing. My bushings fit snug in the round frame hole (I think, anyway). I mean that above the bushing, where you would expect the flat top rubber surface to contact the underside of the body, there's an air gap. So that the body is not "resting" upon the bushings. I do in fact have paint cracks along the two joints between the edge of the convertible opening (what would be the base of the rear window in a coupe) and the corners of trunk lid. I think similar cracks also developed when it had the original paint and bushings, so I'm not sure this bushing issue had anything to do with it. A convertible body would flex more than a hardtop in that spot.
Hi. Yes, we are talking about the same area. I have that problem as well. The bushing fits in the frame hole snug. But there is at least a quarter inch to 3/8 Gap above the bushing where the trunk pan and floor pan come together. I am going to put a spacer between there to support the body. That would be a major Flex point right where you mentioned, trunk lid and quarter panel. They boxed the frame in a convertible to support that extra because there is no roof pillars. I would make sure that bushing is fitting properly (no gaps) my friend is building a 68 convertible he has the same Gap issue as well. He is also going to put a spacer. I hope this helps. All the best my friend.
That's interesting. I'm glad to hear I wasn't the only one to notice this. It does make me wonder, however, if they weren't designed with a gap on purpose, since as I noted my new bushings were the same size as the originals. I'll look forward to hearing how it goes with the spacer. Thanks again!
I will keep you posted, by the way I forgot to mention there is no space on my 68 Chevelle where those bushings are. I did not notice when I took them apart if there was a previous space on the GTO
Hi, Those bolts came with the bushing kit . What I suggest you do Is go to Your hardware store and get grade 5 or grade 8 bolts It'll be much cheaper . The only problem you're going to have is make sure you get the right size But it's easy to figure out a long as it sticks up past 3/4 of an inch up from the bushings you should be fine
LOL. One of my helpers could not read a tape measure, so I bought him one of those. It was the closest one to me, so I grabbed it. Check out this video. th-cam.com/video/F0-moMzBJ9o/w-d-xo.html
Thank you I'm glad you AR enjoying the videos. I did not have good Lighting in my garage at the time. check out this video it is updated on the energy suspension I just put in. All the best th-cam.com/video/R8TH2Ku4Hus/w-d-xo.html
@@jesserodriquez4829 you mean lock washers for the bolts? The washers should be about 2in round. mine did not come with lock washers for the body mount kit
I recognized the body as soon as I saw the cut outs for rear windows. I see you are cutting corners by not taking the frame apart and welding the pieces back together. 🤣
Hi Santa. I just saw your comment, TH-cam had your comment under likely spam.!! I just checked my account. Sorry it took a while to get back to you. No cutting Corners here Santa. total rebuild and reconstruction of metal. Take care my friend..
Great videos! Thanks for taking the time. I'm going to use the HPI Customs box/brace kit (hpicustoms.com/products/68-72-chevelle-k-brace-kits) on my 68 Cutlass convertible. I'd be curious what you wind up using.
Hi Randy. Thanks for stopping by and commenting. I hope you subscribed! I hope you had better luck than I did!! I been trying to purchase a brace kit from them for a while. I actually found another place that sells the exact same kit. Let me know if you're interested. I will give you the information. Also you're not paying shipping costs... all the best my friend
Randy. go to Summit Racing. Framing brace kits, seven seven zero eight zero zero is the part number. I hope this helps. Take a look at it let me know what you think
Hi Steven. No I did not end up boxing the frame yet. I want to complete the firewall first before I do the frame boxing. I will be shooting a video on that when I do it. How is your project coming along?
@@classicrewind2715 a lot slower than I would like. Just bought some quarters and wheel housings and your videos are spot on. They will help me a ton. Here is the box kit I used. Highly recommend it. www.abcperformance.net/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_77&products_id=51
Thanks Steven. I already bought the boxing kit. From Summit. It's a really nice kit, it comes with exhaust mount plate and transmission bar plate. I'm Glad my videos can help you out.. All the best
I actually purchased my framing brace kit from Summit. I ordered one from HPI originally, they kept playing game.so I went with Summit much cheaper as well. I hope this helps all the best
![[TH] 2024 PMGC League | กลุ่มสีเหลืองวันที่ 1 | PUBG MOBILE Global Championship](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I_FdxGT3WV4/mqdefault.jpg)
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบ 8 ทีมสุดท้าย] - ช่วงบ่าย](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M0S_ReCIkxg/mqdefault.jpg)
That is a really nice floor jack. Thanks for the video.
Thanks !
Nice man! Slow and steady wins the race! Keep up the good work my friend cheers Nathan
Hi Nathan. Thanks for stopping by brother. All the best
Thanks for he video it was helpful, one question how much do you think that the same amount of body that you have (shell) how much does it weigh?? I have mins on a trailer and need to get to my left and I was wondering if 4 guys can move from the trailer off to my left
That is a good question.. The body off the frame is not that heavy. If you remove the bumper and fenders, four guys can easily move it. I would say about 300 pounds. Don't forget most of the weight is in the engine, transmission. and the rear axle. I hope this helps. All the best..
Fyi One click on the Torque wrench only. not critical on body mounts but critical on parts like rear dif or engine bolts , one click. keep up the good work.
Thanks for commenting. Check out my video where I use polyurethane bushings if you get a chance. All the best
great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Where did u say u got the mounts? I'm doing a frame off on a 69 skylark convertible and the mounts I got are to large to fit in the holes in the frame
They should be a little tight so you could stick them in hole. you're going to need some effort but not too much where they're going to rip or tear. I got mine from OPG. I am going to use poly mounts probably from energy suspension
Whats your technique for getting the body off the frame once all bushings and lines are disconnected?
I lift the front of the body with the firewall brackets. The rear, I lift from the trunk latch. Drop the frame and pull it out from underneath and then support it. Making sure the body is level so it doesn't fall. There's a video where the upper body is supported from the roof Rafters. I ran boards through the front and rear window at one point and supported it that way as well. A bunch of different ways you can do it. I also made brackets that fit underneath the rocker panel with notches and I supported the body that way as well. Thanks for commenting , I hope this helps. All the best
Hi. I replaced the mounts on my A-body convertible some years ago. Everything went smoothly, but on the rubber biscuits without bolts (above the rear axle area), the rubber and the body don't make direct contact. Is that normal, for example to allow for body flex? The new biscuits and the original biscuits were the same height. The car looks and drives right, so it's hard to imagine the body was bent, but I've always had that fear. Thanks.
Hi fofiftyfive. Yes, the bushings were tight when I remove them from my frame. When I replaced the new trunk pan and floor pan. I noticed there's a 1/4 inch gap between the Rubber Biscuit in the area. I am going to make a aluminum spacer. I'm going to install. I don't want anybody Flex after I paint the car. Did you notice any paint cracking from the body flexing on yours?
All the best
@@classicrewind2715 Hey! Thanks for the swift reply.
I'm not sure we're speaking of the same thing. My bushings fit snug in the round frame hole (I think, anyway). I mean that above the bushing, where you would expect the flat top rubber surface to contact the underside of the body, there's an air gap. So that the body is not "resting" upon the bushings. I do in fact have paint cracks along the two joints between the edge of the convertible opening (what would be the base of the rear window in a coupe) and the corners of trunk lid. I think similar cracks also developed when it had the original paint and bushings, so I'm not sure this bushing issue had anything to do with it. A convertible body would flex more than a hardtop in that spot.
Hi. Yes, we are talking about the same area. I have that problem as well. The bushing fits in the frame hole snug. But there is at least a quarter inch to 3/8 Gap above the bushing where the trunk pan and floor pan come together. I am going to put a spacer between there to support the body. That would be a major Flex point right where you mentioned, trunk lid and quarter panel. They boxed the frame in a convertible to support that extra because there is no roof pillars. I would make sure that bushing is fitting properly (no gaps) my friend is building a 68 convertible he has the same Gap issue as well. He is also going to put a spacer. I hope this helps. All the best my friend.
That's interesting. I'm glad to hear I wasn't the only one to notice this. It does make me wonder, however, if they weren't designed with a gap on purpose, since as I noted my new bushings were the same size as the originals. I'll look forward to hearing how it goes with the spacer.
Thanks again!
I will keep you posted, by the way I forgot to mention there is no space on my 68 Chevelle where those bushings are. I did not notice when I took them apart if there was a previous space on the GTO
Are those the original body bolts or do you have a part number for bolt u used
Hi, Those bolts came with the bushing kit . What I suggest you do Is go to Your hardware store and get grade 5 or grade 8 bolts It'll be much cheaper . The only problem you're going to have is make sure you get the right size But it's easy to figure out a long as it sticks up past 3/4 of an inch up from the bushings you should be fine
LOVE The " Dummy " tape.. i need one. 😂.. But tell me you are going to blast the frame and paint it while your there putting in mounts?
LOL. One of my helpers could not read a tape measure, so I bought him one of those. It was the closest one to me, so I grabbed it. Check out this video.
th-cam.com/video/F0-moMzBJ9o/w-d-xo.html
This video is better.
th-cam.com/video/oiYJIHrpEXM/w-d-xo.html
Very nice video. Slow and precise. You just need better lighting and some shots of the actual bolts from the bottom
Thank you I'm glad you AR enjoying the videos. I did not have good Lighting in my garage at the time. check out this video it is updated on the energy suspension I just put in. All the best th-cam.com/video/R8TH2Ku4Hus/w-d-xo.html
How many washers came with your kit?
If I'm not mistaken I think I had 12 six on each side
Mine only came with 2 small ones and 2 lock washers
@@jesserodriquez4829 you mean lock washers for the bolts?
The washers should be about 2in round. mine did not come with lock washers for the body mount kit
I recognized the body as soon as I saw the cut outs for rear windows. I see you are cutting corners by not taking the frame apart and welding the pieces back together. 🤣
Hi Santa. I just saw your comment, TH-cam had your comment under likely spam.!! I just checked my account. Sorry it took a while to get back to you. No cutting Corners here Santa. total rebuild and reconstruction of metal. Take care my friend..
Great videos! Thanks for taking the time. I'm going to use the HPI Customs box/brace kit (hpicustoms.com/products/68-72-chevelle-k-brace-kits) on my 68 Cutlass convertible. I'd be curious what you wind up using.
Hi Randy. Thanks for stopping by and commenting. I hope you subscribed! I hope you had better luck than I did!! I been trying to purchase a brace kit from them for a while. I actually found another place that sells the exact same kit. Let me know if you're interested. I will give you the information. Also you're not paying shipping costs... all the best my friend
@@classicrewind2715 Please do tell who else sells that brace kit.
Randy. go to Summit Racing. Framing brace kits, seven seven zero eight zero zero is the part number. I hope this helps. Take a look at it let me know what you think
@@classicrewind2715 Awesome! Thanks!
Did you end up boxing the frame?
Hi Steven. No I did not end up boxing the frame yet. I want to complete the firewall first before I do the frame boxing. I will be shooting a video on that when I do it. How is your project coming along?
@@classicrewind2715 a lot slower than I would like. Just bought some quarters and wheel housings and your videos are spot on. They will help me a ton.
Here is the box kit I used. Highly recommend it.
www.abcperformance.net/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_77&products_id=51
Thanks Steven. I already bought the boxing kit. From Summit. It's a really nice kit, it comes with exhaust mount plate and transmission bar plate. I'm Glad my videos can help you out.. All the best
@@classicrewind2715 what kit did you buy who makes it , I bought a frame brace kit from hpi .. and a mini tub kit from abcperformance.net
I actually purchased my framing brace kit from Summit. I ordered one from HPI originally, they kept playing game.so I went with Summit much cheaper as well. I hope this helps all the best