wheel house, inner & outer 68-72. replacing and installing new wheel house
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- removing & installing inner and outer wheelhouse. also known as wheel wells. in this video I'm replacing the wheelhouse metal. on my 68 GTO. don't forget to Like, Share And Subscribe!!
Excellent videos. I just purchased a 68 chevelle and will be trying to do trunk wheel house and 1/4 panels
That is awesome. I've worked on a lot of 68 Chevelles. I've had six of my own. Until I bought my SS Chevelle. all the best
Replacing 72 Chevelle left rear...great video!
Hi Pete. I hope your Chevelle is coming along well. Thank you for the kind words. I also have a video on replacing the rear quarters check them out when you get a chance. All the best
Great video doing the exact same work to my 68 gto as you are
Thanks Sean. Working with those repops sometimes are a pain in the butt. I hope you're having better luck than I am. All the best my friend.
Hey man! I'm working on a 70 Chevelle and am currently in the inner/outer wheel house area. I was scratching my head as to how the three structures of outer - inner - body came together. Thanks for the illustration!
Glad I could help. Good luck on your project.. I have a couple of videos on that area, I think the trunk pan video, I mention the alignment of the inner wheelhouse. Be sure to check that video out as well. All the best
@@classicrewind2715 did you find that the inner/outer wheel house assembly was highly stitched together, making it a solid unit? I wanted to separate the remnant of the outer from body and inner to replace and then simply patch the lower edge of the inner al along trunk line and moving backward to the drop off.
The spots at the body, the quarter brace and trunk lid brace are all cut and loose, but the inner/outer are still TIGHT. I can NOT get the outer to drop out. I am resigned to completely replacing the inner, too, unless you have a tip or another idea get them to separate.
Thanks in advance! Very much appreciated.
Hi. You can't drop the outer wheelhouse because there's a bracket that it's welded to, it's along the structure of the inner panel. You might have to cut the outer wheel well out on top or just grind away and you should be able to see the weld marks. Cut them out and it should drop. I'm going to see where it's located on the video so you could see what I'm talking about. All the best. Get back to me let me know how it works out.
40 seconds in .. that's the bracket that is holding the outer Wheelhouse in.
@@classicrewind2715 Yes, I had noted that bracket (I'm calling it the sail panel support) in you video initially. This panel was part of the revelation your video initially provided me. My comment is that my inner/outer wheelhouse pieces seem to be pre-assembled (with many closely spaced spot welds as seen on the arch that connects the two AFTER the trunk lid support bracket connection.)
For instance: I ended up boring completely through spots that connected the inner body wall to the out wheel house (underneath the rear quarter window). With the body wall panel loose and wiggling, I STILL could not insert an air hammer chisel between the seam of the inner/outer panels. Hence my question.
We bought a 69 "project" last September from a nice fellow whose body man which was his father had started on it and then passed away. Found your series shortly after that. Thank you for the detailed build and all the commentary. Our project has most of the same issues as the GTO you're filming. The trunk pan, wheel wells, and both rear quarters. The old trunk pan was removed when we got it and the trunk fillers have been separated from the wheel wells but are still in place. My question is how to know when a wheel well is rusted beyond repair and needs replaced? Also after viewing many of your vids it appears that you 1. installed the new trunk pan 2. removed the old rear quarters 3. removed the old wheel wells, 4 installed new wheel wells, 5. installed the quarters. The individual we bought this from stated that we should do the front quarters and doors prior to hanging the rear quarters to align everything correctly.
Any direction from an expert like you would be great to me to start.
Mark Douglas
Hi Mark,
Thanks for watching my channel. My videos are done in order. If you go and check out my channel from the you can see how I started building the car together to this point. The person you bought the car from was correct. You should have the front end on prior to adjusting the rear quarters so your doors will fit properly. (To your quarter panels ). If you are changing your quarter panels. The problem is with aftermarket panels is they all fit differently. For instance my passenger side quarter panel was in at the door where it meets. so I had to cut it open and pull it back. That is something that I would have never figured out prior to installing the door. That's in one of the latest videos that I posted. The fitment on these aftermarket panels are all different. As for the wheel well knowing when to completely replace it is totally up to you. It depending on your ability of welding knowledge. You could always get patch panels or make your own panels to repair your wheel wells. Everything I did if you watch my videos I used zip screws to hold everything temporarily together. That way if I had to adjust with a new panel I could. I hope this helps mark. All the best!
@@classicrewind2715 Thanks so much for your quick and thoughtful response. I'll keep watching. It's nice to be retired and have some time to do that!
Where do you live? Keep in touch. let me know how your build is coming along. I'll try to answer any questions you have. All the best
@@classicrewind2715 I'll do that. We live in Central South Dakota. I'm currently working to get the body back off the frame which means rearranging my shop. I think I'll invest in a rotisserie of some type. Going to aim for 2 years with monthly progress.
@user-yj1or4bt3e that's great. I'm in central New Jersey. Try to get a rotisserie with large wheels and makes it easier to roll around. I'm getting rid of my rotisserie soon. If you're ever in Central Jersey let me know. All the best
I kept seeing your breath. No heater for the workshop? See you on the next one!
Thanks for stopping by Santa. Yes, I have a portable heater for the shop. I turn it off when I'm recording. All the best my friend.
dude your great !
Thank you. I'm glad to help
I'm glad I came across this. Very helpful! I'm getting ready to tackle this and a quarter panel very soon. I see that you did your inner and outer wheelhouse separately. They sell them already put together. Is there a benefit to doing it the way you did? Or would buying them as a connected unit be best? Anyway, great work!
Hi. I bought the wheelhouse separately because I have more adjustability in fitting the panels. I was replacing the quarter panel and inner and outer wheelhouse. I wanted to make sure everything was going to fit properly before I did my final welding . Hope this helps. All the best
@@classicrewind2715 That makes sense. I'm doing all three of those things as well. I'll probably buy the wheelhouses separately too then. Thanks for the reply!
Hello, was wondering if you suggest getting both the main floor and trunk floor in before attacking the wheelhouses. I’ve got both rockers replaced and was wondering what to go with next. Looks like you did both floor sections first before tackling the wheelhouses. Which would you say is easier? Thanks!!
Hi Antoni. I did the floor pan and the trunk pan first. I wanted to make sure everything lined up with the new pans. Then I installed the wheel houses. They have markings were their supposed to line up with the new Trunk pan. I suggest you Dri-Fit the Wheelhouse to the floor pan before you do any welding. I hope this helps. all the best!
Classic Rewind copy all! Makes sense and I was trying to remember how the shop did it on my 66. I should be able to remove the old wheelhouses anytime after both rockers are in though, correct? I would have to separate them from both the floor and trunk anyway. And Tony is fine! I have a bunch more questions so we will have to connect on the side somehow. I can send you my email address if that’s ok. My son and I love watching your progress!
Hi Tony. Yes, you should be able to remove the wheel wells after everything is in there is one area where the wheel wells get welded to the bottom of the Rockers. That's where the outer in the inner come together at the rocker. They all get welded at that point. As long as you don't Well that area you should not have a problem removing them. All the best Harry
Harry.k.adventure@gmail.com
Thanks for the video! I'm about to attempt replacing all rear sheet metal on my 72 chevelle. Curious though....what did you do to fill the gaps around the inner wheel wells ?
Mike what gaps are you referring to?? Are you referring to the gaps between the floor pan and the inner wheel well?
@@classicrewind2715 yes sir the wheel wells
Mike. I used sheet metal screws and I also persuaded it with a rubber mallet. that way you don't damage the medal by putting Hammer marks. You could also use a block of wood and a hammer. don't tighten your screws all the way because you will be having to retighten them once you hammer and the metal moves. Let me know how it works out for you please. I hope this helps.
@@classicrewind2715 thanks so much.ill have to remember that when I start my installment! God bless
How did you remove the lower well house from truck part. You didn’t show that part
Hi Jesse check out the trunk floor pan removal video. This might help you.. Basically removing all the spot welds and dropping the wheel well. th-cam.com/video/DowD9p8Wk3c/w-d-xo.html
Yes that one help me very much thank you so much for the videos.
Why not weld both halfs together and then put it in as one?
If you weld them together. And you need to make an adjustment then you cannot. This is all aftermarket parts they are off. they are not Factory OEM. That's why I didn't buy the assembled piece. In case I needed to make the piece fit properly. I hope this helps. All the best
@@classicrewind2715 I am trying to replace just about everything. I have the new truck floor screwed into place along with the outer rockers. New complete floor still has to go in, and the old floor is completely cut out but X braced inside. Hardest thing I'm having is not losing my place, I got the wheel well out and left the rear quarter on the car to line it up to the original before I replace the quarter with a new one and that way I know the wheel well is in the original spot. Does this make sense to you? Not alot of people I out there anymore would even attempt what you or I are doing, and less and less people are using there hands these days.
@@JoeBlack1108 hi Joe. The floor has to meet up to the inner wheel well. So be careful when you try to accomplish that. I know on my car I had a problem with the rear inner fender driver side did not meet up well the trunk floor pan. Also the passenger side I had an issue with the outer wheel well not mating up to the floor pan. I had to cut slits about 10 in and bend it out to make it work. I hope this makes sense. Where are you located? All the best
@@classicrewind2715 I am in southern Ontario Canada. I have a 1969 Pontiac Beaumont, it's a Canada only car. The interior is a GTO same body as a Chevelle but with Pontiac trim. It was built in the Oshawa factory not very far from where I live.
@@JoeBlack1108 Canada. Too far for me to come and take a look, lol. If you have any other questions let me know I will try to help you. Let me know how your build is going. All the best
Where did you get tool from ?
Hi Juan. Which tool are you referring to the punch I bought at Home Depot. Spot weld cutter I bought on Amazon. I hope this helps. All the best
Classic Rewind between structure and inner wheelhouse .. is that pry ?
I don't remember. what time of video is that? So I could go and look at it and I'll get back to you
Time 4:22 sir
Awesome. that is a old paint scraper. very strong sturdy metal. You could still find them at Home Depot it's more like a 1"scraper