HEAT PUMP FROZEN UP LIKE A ICE MACHINE I MISSED UP & TOASTED THE FUSE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2021
- This video got a lot of views watch this live streamed no more about what happened during this video: • LETS TALK ABOUT THE HE... AND HERE • CARRIER HEAT PUMP & EL...
This residential heat pump was frozen up due to a defective defrost board. I was fully aware I could've defrosted the heat pump by running it and air-conditioning mode at the thermostat and just pulling off the O terminal but that's not the point of why I did it the way I did it. I wanted to know whether or not the control board was defective, and that would prevent this from happening again, not getting a repeat call is a whole point of the service call not just getting it running again short term.
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ATTENTION 😒😒😒. 👉 I did a live show covering most of the comments that are being repeated or listed below. The link is in the note section and in the tag section of the video. The things I cover is....yes I made mistake and blew the fuse when I connected the jumper to the wrong terminal😱. I go into greater detail about this in my live show video. I also go into a lot more of my concerns while trying to diagnose this system. 👉👉 For those who keep repeating put it in AC mode and melt the ice that way..... That's only going to get the ice partially melted. 👉First, it's not going to melt all the ice because once it lose contact with the coil it's not going to melt any further 😲. 👉Secondly that doesn't tell me why the system froze up. But by running it in defrost mode over and over will tell me whether the system is capable of doing the job or not. It also tests the defrost board, the defrost termination switch and the refrigeration system all at once. 👉👉👉As with all of my videos, please make sure you watch the whole thing and don't skip sections then ask questions about things that were covered in the video. Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing 👍👍👍
I used to do that sometimes. Those boards are weird
Hey man thats what extra fuses are for and fuses in the first place, thanks for posting!keep up the good work
Dis you ever verify it stopped freezing up?
@@jpp9876 We never received a phone call stating otherwise. I'm sure they would have called if it didn't work.
As a tech you are good. When people put the air handler under a house so servicing is a challenge of slithering and light, testing more hazardous. Some people place at edge of house boosting ease of service.
Nothing but quality at that house - Nordyne and heat and glow. Homeowner spared no expense.
Funny thing is I see the same thing in million dollar houses 😁
Gosh, do I detect a bit of sarcasm in that statement? lol
0:16 "Slightly Froze Up" is an understatement
That's my humor, you'll find that a lot in my videos. 😁
Another fun little tip when you come upon them super frozen like that, two things right out the gate. If its a normal open/close defrost sensor You can see if it’s closed Because it should be if it’s frozen like that. Also you need to make sure you’ve got 24+ volts red to common. If it does not have power to red Or has a broken/bad common wire, the timer will never start on the defrost board and it will never initiate defrost.
I thought the same.
Another tip I've found is if it's frozen solid like that it's probably not low on charge
I know this was a year ago. This was another quality video thank you for the tutorial of being safe and how to test the components. Danger is always present and you made it clear what those were. Also it's not ideal to be standing in wet conditions but we are committed to getting the system back on as a loyal tech should. Keep them coming thank you!
Thanks man! I screwed up but I'm not as familiar with this brand🤷. It happens, and any publicity is good from what they say. 😁
@@HVACRSurvival I own this POS and it's at my 2nd home on the Chesapeake and I have had nothing but trouble. My gauges have been on this thing more than any other customers house ever worked on. I admire your honesty it was a good laugh to hear you admit your issues. No one else does it like that. Thanks.
@@LRBennettInc I'm too honest, I rather apologize for being truthful than lying to you.
Mine froze up once during a cold blizzard and by the next day it was unfrozen and has worked great all through the cold and worked fine last summer. I purchased a Hessaire 18.000 unit. I installed it myself early last summer. So far ( knock on wood ) It has worked flawlessly. I never realized just how easy it was to install myself. This unit replaced an OLD samsung from the 70's that stopped working. Was simple to install as the hold to the outside matched perfectly. A dealer wanted $8,000 to replace my old unit with a 12,000 btu. I paid less than a thousand with delivery. Keep up with your great and informative videos.
Just got my AC unit installed last November. I been watching videos about AC/heat pump, thanks for sharing
Thanks 4 watching👍👍
Good job my friend....I appreciate you going the extra mile to see where the problem was located....Nordyne is terrible...
I'm glad I'm not the only one that feels that way. 😉👍👍
Thanks for sharing this video. Lucky for the customer that this was a copper & fin condenser coil, since then Nordyne went to all micro channel condensers for their Heat Pumps (Only Manufacturer who has done this). I have had one micro channel coil leak due to much ice built up.
I got my hands on the SolderWeild kit and it worked great on the aluminum I tested it on. I'm ready for a non-warranty coil to try it out on.
When I did work in 2010-2012 in FL I never came across a nordyne unit that had an issue. Trane? all the time. Carrier, to a lesser extent. I heard their micro channel stuff was bad. Kind of a shame since it seems like a good idea, at least for the inside.
If it is above 30, defrosting with a garden hose will work well, I had to do that last week!
I had a friend and installed a new compressor for them in September, and I guess they did not run the A/C for the remainder of summer. I forgot to plug the reversing valve back in, and came out in November to see it covered with ice like yours is. I was able to remove the 2" of ice in a few minutes with a garden hose.
Also if above 34F, unplug the compressor common wire and then run just the fan motor, the ice will go away in about 15 minutes, like a air defrost of a walk in refrigerator.
Great video, I am thinking that the board and temperature sensor should have been changed, and if you don't get more no cold calls, you did the right thing.
Did you visually examine the solder-side of the 'bad' PCB? As an electronics guy, single sided boards are prone to having cracked solder joints and lifted pads. A local HVAC company wanted my mother to pay $3k for a new furnace over what was ultimately a single cold solder joint on the blower motor relay. Years before they wanted $3k for a new furnace due to repeated breaker tripping. It took me 4 minutes to diagnose a bad circuit breaker.
@@HVACRSurvival these days everything is liable
I know what you're saying about these other companies. I had someone with a variable speed blower that had a bad ECM, I told him to get somebody else, because he whined a little about how much it was going to be. The company who installed it came in and told them they needed to replace the whole five ton system for $12,000. I knew it just needed a blower module, which aren't really easy to get. So I went ahead and got an evergreen motor for it and fixed it. And I am an HVAC contractor, but I can't get over all these companies that won't fix anything, they just want to sell equipment and make a fortune off the customer. And I say, you'll have that with some companies. And I say it's either because they're desperate for money because of their outrageous overhead or no one knows how to fix it.
I'm an old and seasoned electronics guy also. If you can fix the board with a simple solder repair then just do it and don't brag about it. I've done it myself more than a few times. It saves a lot of cost and frustration for everyone. Too bad the new boards have a lot of unknown parts on them which makes it hard or impossible to repair. If that's the case then scrap it and get a new one. Everything has electronics now, even my toothbrush. Ain't progress just great?
@@HVACRSurvival I love it when people hide behind liability. Cheaper for you and you only to just throw it away and charge the customer 100x more to just replace it instead of fix it.
@@joblessalex in this case hvacr survival is only insured for HVAC repairs. That is not inclusive of repairs that would be considered better suited for other businesses. Maybe he could offer to send the board out to be repaired by a licensed and insured electronics repair person, but I would bet that this would cost just as much as a new control board and also have even more downtime as the system will be unable to run without the board. (In this case he left the broken board so heat would work and ordered a new one)
Always interesting to see the old style of heat pumps.
“Come on baby shut off” got to love it
I very much appreciate the time you put into sharing information that I need! You are Awesome
Awesome, what ended up being the problem?
Awesome video, learned a lot. Heat pumps are getting more common here in Canada so it was nice to see this video. Thanks!
Good deal👍👍
Yes but they are still nowhere near being the dominate heating method there, like gas oil and wood is, most heat pumps in Canada, just like in any other climate that can see well below freezing temperatures, are usually mated with a gas furnace or electric resistance furnace for AUX heat, since heat pumps only heat efficient to a certain degree below the freezing mark.
In Canada? Insanity.
@@kevinadams9468 it never gets below -15 Celsius rarely. Southern Ontario
In Florida, most installs are done with the T before the trap on most systems. Been that way for years. Depends on if the system is negative vs positive pressure as well. You can use a vent if you are feeling fancy.
I like tees over 90s in positive applications and a tee after a trap for a relief to preventing a double trapping.
I really appreciate these types of videos. the process of your troubleshooting helps me to refine my technique. And watching the videos all the way through is like a mini movie: First you have conflict and then either there's a solution at the end or its open ended and we will never know but we can always have many theories and alternative routes to the same solution.
Thank you, this is a recording while I'm figuring it out instead of telling you what I found after the fact. So yeah I could see it being like a movie. the only problem I run into is those who want to prove their excellence and try to guess what's wrong before they even watch the video 🤯 which I find to be kind of pointless but to each their own. I appreciate you taking the time to watch it 👍👍
I guess the build quality like most brands depends on whether its a base model or higher end. Mine is a 17 seer heatpump version of that, with 2 stages and variable speed furnace. It is completely different from a control / board perspective.
We have a carrier green speed (expensive) that was icing up. Bge home came out and decided the thaw board wasn't working properly. Long story short, it's now the 23rd of February and they came out on the 6th and they still haven't been back. Called rhem 5 times and recieved 1 call back that they're working on the part. So after three 20 lb tanks of propane the weather has warmed up a bit so it's not freezing up. If you live in Maryland, bge home are not on it.
Demand defrost control, at least in my experience, works on a deltaT based on a defrosted coil condition. Suppose the entering ODT is 40F and the outdoor coil temperature is 32F. That’s an 8F deltaT. Then, let’s say, after running in heat mode for one hour, the entering ODT is still 40F but the coil temperature has dropped to 26F. That’s a 14F deltaT which means the defrost board will soon initiate a defrost to bring the deltaT back to 8F (or so) deltaT. It should not take very long to do this, under 6 minutes is best, in fact, too many defrost cycles longer than 6 minutes or terminating on time will create a fault. Maybe that unit is too exposed to the wind, maybe short of gas or both. It will never defrost properly under those conditions.
This is the ghetto brand 😂. This was a generic run of the mill open / closed termination defrost control. It didn't have any thermistors whatsoever, heck they didn't even have the money to put an LED on the control 😂 . As long as that defrost switch was jumped like I had it, it should have ran the full 10 minutes 🤷♂️. I haven't heard back yet so it must have been the issue.
Exposed PCBs reminds me of old Soviet Union paraphernalia. I still cant believe a unite meant for outside exposure is so open to the elements.
Some smd components and conformal coating is something you would expect 2021.
This is a bottom of the barrel unit and is older. A lot of the newer equipment is surface mount.
Good information I personally don’t like working on heat pumps don’t do it enough to be good at it. Have a great day Rick.
Thanks for that👍👍. I've been working on the same job the last two days.
Heatpumps are 99.99 percent of what I work on.
I want to install one of these as side project. Good to know this is a problem
I'm by no means a veteran in the field but whenever I've come across this problem we just run it in cooling at the lowest setting and trick the thermostat by using a hair dryer or low temp heat gun close by it.
Good idea, but wouldn’t that freeze out the occupant?
I appreciate learning these kinds of things, even though I probably would never do this myself and would just hire a professional if i needed it. Hell, my first thought would have been to get a portable generator with a hair dryer and just give it a few hours and some run overs lol.
"don't be doing electrical if you don't know what your doing" he says shortly after blowing the fuse by jumping the wrong terminal to common :)) I just couldn't resist the temptation to poke lol.
those three test terminals on board, the top is T2, the middle is defrost/test(jump top and middle together) and bottom is test which you jump to common to speed the defrost timer to seconds, vs. minutes setting of jumpers.
jumping the top two together should be the same as defrost thermostat closed and it's likely directly connected to the defrost thermostat pins.
Shit happens but it makes for a better video. lol
Absolutely right.
You had me cracking up when you proceeded to move the pin to no delay and there was still a delay. Don’t forget to turn on the power otherwise your day might get delayed.
Your probably right, I hate working on shit equipment. 😁
Its a Nordyne. The old board was probably bad and the new one is probably bad too. Don't lose any sleep over it.
🤣 I can't agree more👍👍
Good one Rick 👍
Same part the HVAC guy did change on my 13 years old Amana Heatpump. Sometimes the heatpump was stuck in defrost mode or staying in defrost and starting the fan so it was in Cooling mode but asking for heat nice videos. For my part I did change my filter every single 3 months
Bad high pressure switch might cut off the contactor too and cause premature defrost.
👍👍👍
few days ago it was very cold in here. A 24000BTU inverter mini split outdoor unit freezes in this way. People who used it unconsciously and thoughtlessly pierced the condenser coils with some kind of builder's hammer that we "cut" while clearing the ice. Although it looked bad, I tried to fix it. I wanted to share something like this.
Heck yeah, share it👍👍
It was totally iced over, hadn't been defrosting. Defrost timer was set for 30 minutes, which means a defrost will trigger every 30 minutes, the shortest period selectable.
So based on the unit was completely iced, either the defrost cycle was terminating prematurely, or wasn't happening at all.
And that is controlled by the defrost control and termination 🤔 that's why I replaced them.
@@HVACRSurvival Absolutely! ;)
the unit could be low on refrigerant charge causing it to come out of defrost before the time is up by the defrost sensor or some other safety, not sure if there are any other safeties on this unit. Don't know if you checked the pressures, was not shown in the video. but in my experience that will cause units to freeze up and not defrost properly. had that issue on a trane and a few other brands.
At the end of the video it is snowing outside. What happens is the poor outdoor unit sucks in the snow, and cannot generate enough heat to remove the impacted snow. Happened to a mini split I put in for a friend. Of course we see below zero a lot so that didn't help.
Whenever it snows heavy here I just turn mine off. I didn't thing I'd be using mine in the winter since I have gas heat, so I didn't put a protective shelter over it. But gas shot way way up so the heat pump is saving me money.
Good one Rick,👍
🤜🤛🍺🍺
I carried nothing but 80-30 defrost sensors in my van. Starts defrost at 30 degrees and terminates at 80 degrees. Guaranteed to get rid of all the frost/ice IF refrigerant is at proper level.
Who makes that? Most of the higher end equipment now has on demand defrost that I work on but sounds like that might be good for a universal part on the truck?
@@HVACRSurvival RS 222-8218 at least goes up to 60°
You are so right we have to deal with engineering net it would be different if they had to work on before they designed it good job man
💯👍👍
great troubleshooting
Thanks 4 checking it out👍👍
I installed Westinghouse for a few years and was plagued by leaking coils, and service valves
Nice troubleshooting ...
Thanks Eddy👍👍🍺. I don't like unfamiliar equipment 😁
Can you not just move the relay /delay from 30 to 90 to allow appropriate timing between heating intervals ?
90 minutes would let it run longer between defrosts resulting in more ice between defrost.
Should I replace the defrost switch when I replace the board? Was open when it was frozen but was not hooked to a coil that was frozen.
Has frozen stripes on the unit. Any idea what causes stripes to freeze?
Defrost only ran for 5 or 10 seconds in test so I know I need a board.
the open/terminate on them is usually around 60 to 70F! so if you had one open when it was below 60F outdoors without unit running and cold, it's likely a bad thermostat ;)
I just rewatched the video and it looks like you jumped between C and the top terminal (T2) instead of test (bottom terminal) and that caused a direct short on you first test. The jumper between T2 and DFT could have been left in place as it make the board think the sensor is constantly closed. When you done the test the second time you did jump C to test but the sensor was closed and that is why the unit went into defrost.
I just pulled out my computer so I could zoom in. YOU ARE CORRECT👍 I SCREWED UP. I'll have to remove my rant. Thanks for catching it👍👍
I've done the same thing, back in the 80s. Those models of defrost board are different from anything else..
yep, but looked like he jumped middle terminal to common, instead of the top, which I think is the feed from indoor thermostat B(heat reverse), to the defrost t-stat and T2 is the other side of defrost thermostat (I may have those backwards) but jumping either top or middle to C with defrost thermostat closed will short 24v to common. whoops, did somebody forget their glasses that day lol
@@throttlebottle5906 I had a comment concerning all these things at the top of the page of the comment section for nearly two weeks, I removed it after I did a live show which I noted in the same place and pinned that instead. if you notice the views of this video are off the chart compared to some of my other videos, that's why I did the live show, so if you want a in depth review of what happened and why, then watch that. If I altered every video so that I don't always came out perfect on top I wouldn't have any credibility. If I thought I was perfect I surely wouldn't put in the title "I messed up"..... shit happens, no one can know every different brand out there, and I went into the details of how their control board was completely back asswards to every control I've seen on the market. Here's the facts 👉 The problem is repaired and was completed before I finalized the job. Results are what matter,. 3 weeks later and I wasn't called back after 2 plus weeks of 0-15 degree days.
I subscribed for the comments...left a smarter man. Curious if the coils were clean. I usually pull the cabinet and clean them if needed, before I even put a gauge on it.
They were clean. System is still working good since the repair.
Holy bananas
😂 that thing 😂
So many places heat pumps of SEAR 16 or less are too far north. Now ductless splits are replacing these and can work with low ambients. Defrost boards don't seem to like power surges and dirty power either...
Several manufacturers have inverter driven heat pumps that work fine down to 0*. You need to look at the eer rating not the sear rating when you want to know you're efficiency of your heat pump in heating. It costs more to heat my house then cool it.
@@HVACRSurvival Yes Sir. I am placing a ductless mini in own residence this summer. 22-24 SEER awesome and lower tipping point. USA behind on this and lower energy consumption will push this probably.
i keep a painters tarp on my truck i wrap the unit and cover the top put it in defrost it will hold the heat in and melt the ice fast it works had a old school tech show me that 16 years ago i use it still to this day
So I wasn't too dumb 👍👍🙄😂
Nope you were halfway there I would have never thought of that until he showed me anything to help each other out we need all the tips and tricks we can get
True very true👍👍
Dang I want big mac now. 😂
Factory figured if they overstated the time they would get more boards replaced.
Hopefully not, but who knows?
Nice job and video
Thanks Donnie! Glad you liked it.
I have a molex pin remover that works pretty good on those boards.
Male/Female 4 Pin Molex Power Connector Pin Remover Computer Wire Extractor Tool for Modding/Wiring/Sleeving (for .062" and 0.093" pins)
@@sherwinalvarez7365 I have a molex pin pushing tool, I'll have to see if that fits👍👍
I use a piece of 1/4” copper tubing
@@domrod1579 that might be my favorite one. I always have 1/4" 👍👍
Were the DFT and T2 jumpers just missing on the 2nd go? My brain read that goofy instruction sheet as needing those jumpers to meet the 10min defrost as well.
How long can they run like that? Seen one at a condo being renovated, owner was out, every time I walked through the parking lot shortcut to house seen one of those with ice crawling on the ground around it more and more each day til the owner showed up.
Until it finally washes the oil away and it seizes up.
Had same issue
Changed the defrost sensor that I got from Amazon and the issue was fixed
Now sometimes temperatures drop under 20 degrees and no ice at all
Good Deal..
Kicking the Big Mac carton 😂
I really been thinking on putting one in my house but what I’ve seen lines come 25’ but my home is 30’x75’ slab ranch 9 total rooms had central air but out side condenser froze up and stopped working thinking of changing it out with a heat pump
Linesets can be extended to what ever the manufacture has listed as the maximum length.
what about refrigerant levels? and pressures? I always melt all the ice, use your torch, let it sit for 20 minutes and then try heating mode with gauges on, pretend its new and in the factory without ice on it???? make sense?
What is your favorite brand of filder?
Filter?
As the great Ernest once said " heat pump schmeat pump"
good one!
I still have questions about that compressor. Only drawing 4 amps ?? Thats definitely a problem.
They need to be up off the ground with a shelter over them in colder areas. Mine is on two foot high concrete pylons with a shelter over it. No issues so far. It's in central NH.
I can't believe this guy posted this video. He's killing me.
Say what you want to say don't be a sissy about it 🤣
@@HVACRSurvival no offense. If you open a panel and see the wiring indicating a heat pump, probably not going to find a gas furnace under the house. I'm just saying.
@@jpluto7474 you must live in the south because I have a gas furnace on my heat pump. It's very common where I live.
@@HVACRSurvival certainly do! In that case where you'r heat pump developes Frost/ice, switch over to the fuel or gas heat. I was just taught, 27, years ago, that gas is the best source of heat. Installing a heat pump with a gas furnace just don't make sense to ME! emphasis, ME. In the south, gas furnaces are always paired with straight air condensers. Dual fuel systems aside. Perhaps there is still much I need to learn. Guys I've trained work in areas further north west of Charleston into North Carolina where fuel oil systems are prevalent. Don't mind me, my wife thinks I pay too much attention to duct work when we're out. Sometimes I think she believes I would date a piece of spiral duct.
Or did it cycle off on high pressure cut off?
If the high pressure switch tripped because the indoor fan was not running that should cause it to shut down and not run any further. Not continue to run and freeze up into a ball of ice.
Nice job in poor conditions! All the DIYers need to know that while it may appear that he was safely touching all over energized equipment, his fingers were about two inches away from lethal voltage. Pros only!
And even the pro's need to stop doing that, really. I know it sounds cool to do something dangerous and then claim that you can do it because "I'm a professional", but really you're just being an idiot who thinks he can do things safelyt because he hasn't had the full 400 volt experience yet.
If you tell people something is dangerous and then still do it, you're an idiot. Full stop.
You make me laugh. Viewers that quote 400 volts are the ones I have to worry about doing something wrong and trying to blame me because they didn't fully understand what they were doing. Show me 400 volts in the United States? 120v, 240v, 277v, 460v, is the most common I work on. And yes I have been hit with 277v. Go watch more videos and show me how you truly get nailed with 400v. Better yet start making videos to help technicians in the field that don't get enough training in our pathic school systems that come out lost and less than prepared to work in the field. If schools weren't so horribly under performing I wouldn't need to make videos. I don't make these to brag or to help cheap ass homeowners and business owners to save money. Thanks for your input that added no value to today's video👍👍
1st sticker always de energize eq before performing maintenance next sticker with eq energized jump j1 to t2 to enter test mode😂. Knowing the eq is the safety, being able to run diagnostics on energized eq is a far cry from an idiot.
@@grindstone5368 eureka Jeeves! you get it!!!👍👍🤣
"Don't do this electrical stuff if you don't know what you're doing" Says the guy blowing fuses......
First mistake I ever made 😲
@@HVACRSurvival ...since last time... lol
@@azr2d1 exactly right 🤣
I seen Steve lav use a bic pen to depress those pins on the old style boards
That would work👍
You're so famous the Jolly Green Giant is watching you. That wasn't snow and sleet that was the Jolly Green Giant's dandruff He's one of your biggest fans. You did a super job. Remember that weather is coming soon.
Lol. I know, it's been getting in the 30s at night. 🤦♂️
What do you feel like was the problem?
Defrost termination likely. But I wasn't going to take a chance of not replacing the board. And you can't send back electronic boards unless it's not opened.
The tee for the drain on the furnace. My old job that’s how we were told to do it so it can properly vent and drain per the MFG granted I worked on Lenox. That being said how come you put the foam cap in? It’ll trap the same with or with out wouldn’t it?
Watch the video again and see where the tee is at. It's before the trap, if you're going to put a tee in you put it after the trap that way you don't double trap the drain line and cause it to not drain. Also don't forget this coil is in a negative pressure zone because it's before the blower. If the coil is in a positive pressure then yeah I've put a t after it and not use a trap. I worked for a Lennox premiere dealer for 19 years prior to where I'm at now.
@@HVACRSurvival okay, wow that’s a lot I am just now learning lol thanks!
I have a 2019 Lennox 14HPX-030-230-21 heat pump it is Iced up and the defrost kicks off after 2 minutes what should I do?
I would locate a local Lennox dealer to check it out.
Change & insulate the sensor
I use a ink pen case the solid kind to remove the the control board clip holders
I use needle nose pliers
Check how the timer is made. If it is some simple RC timer - maybe the capacitor went bad.?
We don't repair boards at component level. That's why I didn't finish my degree in electronics as I planned prior to going to school for HVACR.
Have you heard of Fluke 902fc having problems? Johnstone called me and said I need to stop using my meter per Fluke. Just certain serial numbers.
No, that's weird. Did they say what the problem was? It's go to Flukes website and verify
The Counter guy at Johnstone said they can catch fire. I looked at the fluke website found nothing. They must be trying to figure out what the cause was. This was Johnstone supply Davenport Iowa.
support/safety-notices/37xfc-902fc-recall
nice shaved ice maker :))
The big Mac box lol
Something for everyone🤣👍👍😉
When you short the test pins and rapidly advance the internal clock you can eat into the 10mins defrost cycle and it terminated less than 10mins
I pulled the jumper as soon as it went into defrost but you might have a point👍👍
What brand do you like?
Carrier is fine, the install is just as important as the manufacturer.
Nordyne is made for mainly mobile homes so you know where the quality went for that.
I didn't want to say that and sound snotty. 😉
Just run it in ac and pull the wiring to the fan! Defrost as long as you like!
It was 59 in the house. Indoor coil will freeze.
Pressures would also be of concern.
@@myrkobalaban8571 no it won't in that amount of time.
Water hose.
@@jamesrogers4674 gosh that takes a long time on one like this. But it's about the only option however I've got a propane space heater I set in front of them if it has to be done right then. Around here I put them on emergency heat and wait a few days for them to melt if they'll let me. Some people don't agree to that. I'm talking about something frozen up like this one.. forced air space heater works pretty quick and you can stay warm too
Is the fan not running because the door is open?
There's not a door interlock on this model. The outdoor unit ran because I had the timer jumped outside, it didn't happen once the jumper was removed.
Kinda looks like my unit, except mine is a Bryant. 30 years old and starting to have some issues here and there. Over a year ago had to replace main board on furnace. 8 months before that it was the run capacitor on the outside unit. Just this past Monday had the blower motor replaced on furnace. When it gets a little warmer will have them come out and figure out why the outside unit freezes up on occasion. Things don't last forever, but I bet a new unit won't last close to 30 years either.
The new ones won't.
Keep doing that maintenance...even replacing the compressor is much cheaper than replacing the entire unit.
Keep the coils clean...gotta remove the cabinet to do this one. First thing I’d try, and free. Maybe low Freon, or dirty filter/cold air returns.
A good way to get them pins off the board is a bic pen take the ink out and use that
Good point👍👍
Don't worry mate, you will figure it out when you finish your apprenticeship
😂👍👍 we never stopped learning.
Thanks for sharing the info. Are all these things that loud? Sounds like junk.
Carrier, Lennox, and Misubishi are some of the more quieter ones. This is more of a builders model. Nordyne around my area is known largely as a mobile home equipment manufacture and not as a high end innovative leader. They have added box store names like Maytag and Westinghouse to make them sound impressive but if you know how Westinghouse left my town high and dry it's not a great name for those that remember when then made equipment locally.
@@HVACRSurvival thanks for replying.
This is where a kettle would be handy ;-)
Where did you get those jumpers? They look cool. I got a Kaiweets set and they are like 14 or 16 gauge with giant alligator clips and they work great except for small spaces.
I built them with old test leads from a VOM
A Bic pen with the ink removed goes over those plastic "pins" on many of the boards.
Bet that unit is low on refrigerant with a leaking evaporator coil also
Geez.... with all the videos of Walk ins and refer calls you guys do. A freakin heat pump had more ice on it than any of those ive watched.!!!!
It does happen time to time. 😁
Hey, maybe someone in the trade could answer me if the rated current on the label, not the maximum current that's drawn at starting the compressor, is the actual maximal normal AC current measurable at the outlet?
I reread that 6 times and I'm still not sure what you want to know? Sounds like you want to know something about the rated run amps and not the inrush current? If so what is it you want to know about it?
@@HVACRSurvival ok, under normal circumstances, does the current on the label match the measured current?
@ normally you'll be under what they're rating it at, generally that's what I want which means I have more room to go.
@@HVACRSurvival Thank you.
I asked because, from the very limited pool of measurements I've don on AC compressors draw, this is exactly what I've observed, a current draw between 50% and maybe 70-80% from what was on the label.
This reinforces my approach of not trying to load the system up to the labeled specification but quite a bit below.
I had one where the indoor txv had failed. It would only run in heat mode. Never defrosting. Even though it would run the defrost mode normally. But, outdoor unit never got any heat. 🐧
Thanks for sharing! I have had a few txv failures but I don't remember it causing a defrosting issue, I believe the result was a pressure switch lock out.
That unit looks like its under charged and you should use 3 wire jumper cable ! R to O or B and Y terminals ! Depending on the kind of unit you have !
Vavula reversoura não está funcionando
Correctoit's esnot trabajando
QUESTIONS DO FURNACES HAVE A FILTER OR THE RETURN AIR DUCT THE ONLY AIR FILTER I HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT (SORRY FOR THE ALL CAPS CAPS BUTTON IS SHOT)
Usually your air filter(s) are located at your furnace, sometimes they are located in the return air duct on the wall or ceiling behind a removable grill.
All intake air should be filtered and leaks sealed. When hair and dust clog the evaporator coil you get bad smells and subpar air conditioning. When heating, all that crap can reduce air velocity causing an overheating situation of the heat exchanger, that the trips the limit switch. If thats bypassed your heat exchanger can crack. But yes the intake supply only needs filtered and the filter should be changed often.
You could’ve replaced it w/ an Emerson/Copeland Universal HP control and set the defrost to your preferences.
I'm trying to get away from residential, but that sounds interesting. Anything would have been a better control than what they had on this thing.
@@HVACRSurvival You’d notice, if you do enough of them, how “approximate” the timers are. You replace parts and the new one do the same thing. 😂 The Emerson Universal, if it fits, is a good option, as you can change your defrost.
Nothing wrong w/ a little Resi, it’s COD.
Nordyne defrost boards are crap. I usually replace board and sensor. Just jump red to orange at CU. puts unit in cool mode to defrost out door coil. Tstat will bring on heat strips.
Gotta hate it when you blow a fuse, and it’s in a crawl space. Lmao 😂
Yeah! This is my most viewed video and it's on a brand I wasn't familiar with🤦🏻. What could go wrong 🤣
heat pumps has to run without leaks of any refrigerant..and it has to be working with its owned vacuum heater core valve for every startup ...cause its noisy every time it starts then fan ramps up then noise went away
It's definitely preferred to not have any leaks, I have no clue what you're talking about far as a vacuum heater core valve? That sounds like a thingamajig down by the witchamacallit next to the monistat 🤣. There will be a lot of noise when it comes out of a defrost, you just changed from One direction and slammed it into the other. This is pretty common for any heat pump. And as I mentioned I am not a fan of this brand,
My open fire don't freeze up
You remind me of a HVAC tech that came to my home and shorted out my defrost board. He bought another one at his expense! Then I called a real Trane trained Service tech. Fixed it in less than thirty minutes. No offense implied !
None taken!