You know evap superheat 4-8°f and compressor between 20-30°f is a happy place but its even tolerable up to 48°f is it’s in harsh equipment with neglected maintenance equipment
I learned not to touch super heat until 5* from set point, or you’ll be doing it again because it will flood when at temp. The one saving Grace was it had liquid injection, but I don’t know if it was even working correctly. It probably was gummed up with shit. I couldn’t feel any temperature changes. I should’ve used my thermal imager, but I was doing a lot of other things that I didn’t show, one of them was the dam bees.
Very systematic... Nice! Those site glasses bubble on a hot freezer until the freeze gets down to temp and quits boiling all refrigerant too early in the evap. in my experience... superheat is high until then as well for this reason. Love your videos you are definitely a guy who really understands his trade.
Thanks for the support 👍👍. I agree the superheat is definitely high at pulldown. I don’t adjust superheat until box it at temp. Far as charging I’m not as worried about waiting.
How many hours did this job take? I mostly do commercial rooftop compressor replacements. Between driving to the site, unloading all my equipment, getting in the building, getting to the ladder, climbing the ladder to the roof, hauling all tools to the roof including the new compressor, then doing the compressor job itself can take 8+ hours. Then when you throw in problems like you had in this video, the clock keeps running. I can only imagine this took a few days to get back in working order.
Because I had to come back and this job was over an hour away I had two full days in it. Normally, it would not take that long, but there was way too much moisture to let it go.
So im not the only one! Ive had issues with my 557s not zeroing out pressures leaving like 14psi reading when zeroing pressures lol even the wireless probes have been doing the same thing
Thank you, I hope to prevent dumb things like this from happening but that only works if the person wants to learn from there mistakes. This person might never see the video 🤷♂️🤔
APPOIN doesn't sell the CCT/VCRT O-rings outside of getting the VCRT rebuld kit. Wasn't paying that price for a kit I didn't need. Went looking for something else. I've been using 'HSN O-Rings, also known as HNBR (Hydrogenated Nitrile Butadiene Rubber)' the green O-rings, for a couple of months now and I'm not going back. No need to leave them loose to get the core out, tighten them down normally the O-ring won' get in the way of the core. If you're tip is properly adjusted you will get the core every time. The chemicals don't break them either. APPION is still the best. I tried the JB's but the side port didn't work. The FP are way too big. It's bad enough with the APPION VCRT's. DAIKIN you have to un-bolt and bend pipes, LG you have to just about remove the Eletrical box. Size #108 Fitts perfectly.
I work in lots of heavy equipment A/C systems. I use Oil eater to wash the coils ( mostly condensers, but some evap. also) - was thinking about maybe doing experimenting and washing the coils with that on stationary coils, to do less damage. The non bubbling dish detergents might be a good idea also.
Rick, I watch a bunch of these hvac channels and you have the deepest, hardest, most incredibly screwed up stuff to work on. Definitely one of the best techs out there to get this nuclear POS running.
I took the chance, but I cheated and cut it out 🤫😎 a pipe cutter didn’t fit. I keep pipe brushes in my torch kit to clean out shavings if they get in there. At that point they system was a miss what am I out.
I carry fire blanket with me. Saved me many times. You can even get something like that from Harbor freight welding section. Also I carry old license plates and pieces of aluminum flushing for the same purpose.
Freezers need suction accumulators. I never sold a low temp condenser without one. Or a medium temp. Guess what, never had a compressor wash itself out. That's why you had a lot of oil in the high side too.
I don’t like the whole design. It’s absolutely idiotic to put two different systems on one breaker so when the one system trips, it takes out the other not to mention you tie yourself up with one condenser coil. The whole design is crap.
A lot of oil in the high side can be from the system being low on refrigerant, like when that cap tube line blew, and then the pressure switch set very wrong, the compressor wasn't shutting off. When the compressor is running in a vacuum, and there's not enough gas flow velocity in the low side of the system, there's not enough to push the oil back up from the box up to the roof.
That was pretty good, your suction line temp showed around 37 degrees. Basically for a low temp unit, I don't worry too much about the superheat while it's pulling down, but a low temp compressor doesn't like return gas above 40 degrees F. You were well below 40, so I think it'll live plus it has the airflow of the condenser fans over it.
If it doesn’t have a capacitor it can be reversed phasing. If it does have a capacitor, the capacitor could be wired incorrect causing it to go in reverse
It was probably short cycling during hot gas defrost....I've found a few systems overcharged going off on high pressure safety during defrost....masterbilt only opens the eev 50 percent in hot gas defrost and can't be reprogrammed
It's not hot gas defrost, it's reverse cycle. Flips the evap and condenser around like a typical heatpump. Would be interesting to see what it's doing for metering, might just check around the EEV and go through a fixed orifice or something. Can't imagine that'd cause short cycling, as you get plenty of heat from the "condenser" to keep the pressure up
You’re probably on the right track, there’s so many things I would’ve done differently. I didn’t go into all the details of how much stuff was screwed up. I should’ve put out a timeline, but there was a lot of half ass hackery going on and stuff was being done in the rain storms.
@Thermoelectric7 the Evaporator fans don't run in reverse cycle like a heat pump, your not condensing, just robbing heat. That sounds like hot gas defrost to me. Short cycling on high pressure safety during defrost. If you restrict the Eev to 50 percent in defrost, your charge has to be perfect with no receiver.
@SeanMackBuffaloStyle the reversing valve is what makes it reverse cycle, not hot gas. Hot gas defrost just dumps the discharge line past the expansion valve. Reversing valve swaps the evap and condenser. Hot gas would have 3 pipes going to the evap. Reverse cycle only needs two. It will 100% be condensing in the evaporator when in defrost. You don't need the evap fans running when it's a block of ice. All that discharge gas will condense as it melts the ice and warms the coil up. At which point it passes backwards through the metering device, into the condenser on the roof, evaporates, and is recompressed. Reverse cycle defrost pulls heat from the condenser on the roof and environment to defrost. Hot gas just uses the heat from the compressor. Massive difference. It'll never trip on HP in a reverse cycle defrost, unless the termination isn't working right, at which point your scenario would be right and it would run high head as there's no more ice in the coil to melt.
Great video rick & job, nice troubleshooting, did you work on this equipment a few months ago, because it looks familar, i think this unit was a hussman, damm the compressor was loud at first but it shut off, the noise.
Did a compressor initially burn out and contaminate the system and was never flushed out? Then subsequent compressors got wrecked? Edit: never mind, bet it was the pressure switch config if das shaft was broken.
First they replaced the reversing valve then a short time later the pressure switch broke and dumped the charge. Then the pressure switch was replaced and I believe they set it up incorrectly, then the discharge line cracked and dumped the charge again, they repaired that then the compressor burned out shortly after that, then they replace the compressor and it snapped off the shaft a couple weeks after that. because the guy that replaced the compressor didn’t check the pressure switch, I believe it short cycled until it broke.
I learned with my testo probes that i have to periodically take them off and make sure there still reading zero. Had a intellagen freezer not long ago that i was checking the suction transducer and almost called it a bad suction transducer, until i took my probe off and found that even though i Zero'd it prior it was at -7 open to atmosphere. Zero'd again and then i was reading the same as the board.
I was setting up a freezer super heat two weeks ago and it was zeroed out before I went in there and when I got done, I thought it was set then rechecked it and it was completely off. I don’t believe these are compensated like they claim. At least not on the probes. They’re too cheap to be able to be that. When I got out my 557 it worked just fine so I don’t 100% trust the probes. Like you said though they really need zero out in the ambient temperature they’re gonna be operating in after they’ve stabilized in temperature.
@HVACRSurvival I am not really impressed with the pressure probes. I stick to only using them for reach ins or prep tables. Even then, i usually just get the analogs with short hoses. I don't know if the field piece probes have the same issues, but I may switch to the field piece. I've had the sman380s for 5 years now, and I have not had a single issue. In fact, I still have the original temp clamps they came with.
@@HVACRSurvival I like my new(ish) Fieldpiece Sman's, they are more bulky than the Testo, but this newer one seems to hold a zero pretty good. That was annoying with my older fieldpiece, I could zero it out, and then after like 5-10 minutes I would have to zero it again. Was so frustrating to always remember to turn on the gauges right away before even taking them off the truck, to allow enough time for them to "warm up" and stop drifting. I think the one I have now is the SMAN 380v, not 100% sure tho.
Great video. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend. May I ask, why freezer use 3 way reversing valve heat pump ? and for freezer, which high , low pressure , Super heat, subcooling number is good ?
This customer must have deep pockets! How much time did it take you to do all of this and are you running other calls on these days?? I average 12-14 hours a day running 5-8 calls while adding more Work orders cause theres always something else broken 😅 ( I do hot side and beverage machines too btw)
Only place I've ever seen it is on fancy gelato freezers. Reverse cycle is way quicker than hot gas or electric on a single unit like that so helps limit the impact on product temp by means of a short defrost cycle. Neat stuff. Way more efficient too.
@@HVACRSurvival Yeah, that's to provide some restriction to build up pressure to provide some heat in the coil. I don't like those kind of systems, the problem is, in the winter on a cold windy day, you get about one good blast of hot gas, then the heat is gone, and even then, you still need electric heaters for the drain pan and drain line, so it's a waste. I have only used electric defrost since the late 1990's. Last one that I worked on, they were using a Bryant 4 ton heat pump for a condensing unit with 2 Larkin evaporators and a receiver remote mounted on the roof beside the unit. Was a real shitshow to get that working correctly. It wasn't a freezer per se, it was a meat cooler, with box temp control set to 30 cut in, 28 cut out. Even though that's not a freezer, anytime you have a desired box temp of less than 35, you can't use off cycle air defrost anymore.
The store have their own maintenance guys, which they still do, but just like us they can’t find good qualified people so they only have a few guys now and now they us to take care of their several stores which are all spread out over Ohio.
Shit dressing with special sauce. Just throw two True condenser units up there with regular Txv’s and call it a day… when these things get old they waste more money on maintaining and repairing them than what they saved by putting them in to begin with.
@HVACRSurvival brother you're preaching to the choir. I've stood on the roof with a ops manager and asked why, his answer it's what McD wants. When I knew he was doing a remodel I asked don't use a Mac unit and if you must make it Heat Craft. He ends up putting in RPG/Master Junk. Some bean counter made this decision with in McD Corp and it stuck. If they used standard I could just run to a local vendor and boom fixed on the day but oh nooooooo....so a control board goes bad walk in down well guess what call a refrigerated truck out because the board need maybe 48 hrs to get here. Dumb!!!! Rant over lol
Good video! You weren’t kidding about the problems. Can’t complain about 11° at the end. Probably the best it’s ran in years.
Hard to say. Hopefully it stays running
Gotta remember if its a freezer superheat is to be checked once box is at least at 0°f brother
U did all u could man, outstanding 🙌
You know evap superheat 4-8°f and compressor between 20-30°f is a happy place but its even tolerable up to 48°f is it’s in harsh equipment with neglected maintenance equipment
As always! Killing Rick! 🙏
I learned not to touch super heat until 5* from set point, or you’ll be doing it again because it will flood when at temp. The one saving Grace was it had liquid injection, but I don’t know if it was even working correctly. It probably was gummed up with shit. I couldn’t feel any temperature changes. I should’ve used my thermal imager, but I was doing a lot of other things that I didn’t show, one of them was the dam bees.
Very nicely done Rick.....basically performed a start up type repair. Everything but the kitchen sink.
Pretty much!
Very systematic... Nice! Those site glasses bubble on a hot freezer until the freeze gets down to temp and quits boiling all refrigerant too early in the evap. in my experience... superheat is high until then as well for this reason. Love your videos you are definitely a guy who really understands his trade.
Thanks for the support 👍👍. I agree the superheat is definitely high at pulldown. I don’t adjust superheat until box it at temp. Far as charging I’m not as worried about waiting.
@@HVACRSurvival The company before you wasn't worried about ANYTHING!🤣
How many hours did this job take? I mostly do commercial rooftop compressor replacements. Between driving to the site, unloading all my equipment, getting in the building, getting to the ladder, climbing the ladder to the roof, hauling all tools to the roof including the new compressor, then doing the compressor job itself can take 8+ hours. Then when you throw in problems like you had in this video, the clock keeps running. I can only imagine this took a few days to get back in working order.
Because I had to come back and this job was over an hour away I had two full days in it. Normally, it would not take that long, but there was way too much moisture to let it go.
That’s a 3 day job for me
So im not the only one! Ive had issues with my 557s not zeroing out pressures leaving like 14psi reading when zeroing pressures lol even the wireless probes have been doing the same thing
The way you explain everything.. thank you so much
Thank you, I hope to prevent dumb things like this from happening but that only works if the person wants to learn from there mistakes. This person might never see the video 🤷♂️🤔
Was that an overnight vacuum?
Yes
2 day vacuum. Charged the customer 48h x $110h for the vacuum pump working. $5,280 in labor 😛
APPOIN doesn't sell the CCT/VCRT O-rings outside of getting the VCRT rebuld kit. Wasn't paying that price for a kit I didn't need. Went looking for something else.
I've been using 'HSN O-Rings, also known as HNBR (Hydrogenated Nitrile Butadiene Rubber)' the green O-rings, for a couple of months now and I'm not going back.
No need to leave them loose to get the core out, tighten them down normally the O-ring won' get in the way of the core. If you're tip is properly adjusted you will get the core every time. The chemicals don't break them either.
APPION is still the best. I tried the JB's but the side port didn't work. The FP are way too big. It's bad enough with the APPION VCRT's. DAIKIN you have to un-bolt and bend pipes, LG you have to just about remove the Eletrical box.
Size #108 Fitts perfectly.
You also have clueless like me watching 😂 Just enjoying how well you can fix things.
I watch things I don’t know about, it’s all good 👍 😊😊
Great job brother! Do what you can is all you can do!
Rick , I think you are a great tech , so intelligent!
I work in lots of heavy equipment A/C systems. I use Oil eater to wash the coils ( mostly condensers, but some evap. also) - was thinking about maybe doing experimenting and washing the coils with that on stationary coils, to do less damage. The non bubbling dish detergents might be a good idea also.
Rick, I watch a bunch of these hvac channels and you have the deepest, hardest, most incredibly screwed up stuff to work on. Definitely one of the best techs out there to get this nuclear POS running.
Thanks for the kind words of support 👍👍
Well Rick - that was super rookie mistake, about that suction filter!
You knew better!
I didn’t want to heat up the reversing valve.
Idk kind of close to the 3way valve
I took the chance, but I cheated and cut it out 🤫😎 a pipe cutter didn’t fit. I keep pipe brushes in my torch kit to clean out shavings if they get in there. At that point they system was a miss what am I out.
I carry fire blanket with me. Saved me many times. You can even get something like that from Harbor freight welding section. Also I carry old license plates and pieces of aluminum flushing for the same purpose.
like your workmanship. i miss r11 to flush the system.
Thanks! 👍
Freezers need suction accumulators.
I never sold a low temp condenser without one.
Or a medium temp.
Guess what, never had a compressor wash itself out.
That's why you had a lot of oil in the high side too.
I don’t like the whole design. It’s absolutely idiotic to put two different systems on one breaker so when the one system trips, it takes out the other not to mention you tie yourself up with one condenser coil. The whole design is crap.
A lot of oil in the high side can be from the system being low on refrigerant, like when that cap tube line blew, and then the pressure switch set very wrong, the compressor wasn't shutting off. When the compressor is running in a vacuum, and there's not enough gas flow velocity in the low side of the system, there's not enough to push the oil back up from the box up to the roof.
Wow. What a great teaching video. Great job.
Thank you!
I recently used those apions, they work nice.
Great 🎉job 👏 amazing 👏 craftsmanship ...proud of you
Thank you very much!
11 degrees and out 👍 Thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching!
Need Mike Rowe for this one! Great video as always Rick!
Thank you very much!
Good video, good walk through of you thought process
Glad you liked it! Thanks for your feedback!
Good video.
Really dirty system.
Ya had to clean up someones previous changeout.
That HP drop was significant.
Yep doing another one today 😩
That was pretty good, your suction line temp showed around 37 degrees. Basically for a low temp unit, I don't worry too much about the superheat while it's pulling down, but a low temp compressor doesn't like return gas above 40 degrees F. You were well below 40, so I think it'll live plus it has the airflow of the condenser fans over it.
Thanks for the tips!👍👍
one of those days where your super prepared for the job... 🤣🤣 nothing right, out of everything, SHTF to the end. lol
I would have rather done what you did than to trace down a leak. Another great video.
Great point! But I did that to. 🤣
Well done Rick, good work!
Thanks for watching
Great work 👍
Hello my friend
What cause making a compressor run reverse? Please Can you tell me more about this situation? Thank you
If it doesn’t have a capacitor it can be reversed phasing. If it does have a capacitor, the capacitor could be wired incorrect causing it to go in reverse
Good job Rick......
Thanks John! Have a good weekend!
Are you Mr. HVAC still available? What about just estimate? Did you make an hour just curious from Tallahassee Fred
Great job
Thank you!
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Great Video I see you are a Testo manifold User have you seen used the fieldpiece manifold set?
@@delvinwooten3213 nope. I have the FP probes. There good but I don’t like how big the field piece manifold is.
@@HVACRSurvival😂 yeah it’s about the size of a tablet
It was probably short cycling during hot gas defrost....I've found a few systems overcharged going off on high pressure safety during defrost....masterbilt only opens the eev 50 percent in hot gas defrost and can't be reprogrammed
That’s crazy but since there’s no TXV outside is likely why.
It's not hot gas defrost, it's reverse cycle. Flips the evap and condenser around like a typical heatpump.
Would be interesting to see what it's doing for metering, might just check around the EEV and go through a fixed orifice or something.
Can't imagine that'd cause short cycling, as you get plenty of heat from the "condenser" to keep the pressure up
You’re probably on the right track, there’s so many things I would’ve done differently. I didn’t go into all the details of how much stuff was screwed up. I should’ve put out a timeline, but there was a lot of half ass hackery going on and stuff was being done in the rain storms.
@Thermoelectric7 the Evaporator fans don't run in reverse cycle like a heat pump, your not condensing, just robbing heat. That sounds like hot gas defrost to me.
Short cycling on high pressure safety during defrost. If you restrict the Eev to 50 percent in defrost, your charge has to be perfect with no receiver.
@SeanMackBuffaloStyle the reversing valve is what makes it reverse cycle, not hot gas. Hot gas defrost just dumps the discharge line past the expansion valve. Reversing valve swaps the evap and condenser. Hot gas would have 3 pipes going to the evap. Reverse cycle only needs two.
It will 100% be condensing in the evaporator when in defrost. You don't need the evap fans running when it's a block of ice. All that discharge gas will condense as it melts the ice and warms the coil up. At which point it passes backwards through the metering device, into the condenser on the roof, evaporates, and is recompressed.
Reverse cycle defrost pulls heat from the condenser on the roof and environment to defrost. Hot gas just uses the heat from the compressor. Massive difference.
It'll never trip on HP in a reverse cycle defrost, unless the termination isn't working right, at which point your scenario would be right and it would run high head as there's no more ice in the coil to melt.
Nice job Rick.
Great video rick & job, nice troubleshooting, did you work on this equipment a few months ago, because it looks familar, i think this unit was a hussman, damm the compressor was loud at first but it shut off, the noise.
No, I worked on one of their other stores. They have several so they have the same equipment and every building is the same.
@@HVACRSurvival or ok, because at the end of the video i noticed it was a masterbuilt
Did a compressor initially burn out and contaminate the system and was never flushed out? Then subsequent compressors got wrecked? Edit: never mind, bet it was the pressure switch config if das shaft was broken.
First they replaced the reversing valve then a short time later the pressure switch broke and dumped the charge. Then the pressure switch was replaced and I believe they set it up incorrectly, then the discharge line cracked and dumped the charge again, they repaired that then the compressor burned out shortly after that, then they replace the compressor and it snapped off the shaft a couple weeks after that. because the guy that replaced the compressor didn’t check the pressure switch, I believe it short cycled until it broke.
@@HVACRSurvival man…what a cluster! Well done on the fix!
I learned with my testo probes that i have to periodically take them off and make sure there still reading zero. Had a intellagen freezer not long ago that i was checking the suction transducer and almost called it a bad suction transducer, until i took my probe off and found that even though i Zero'd it prior it was at -7 open to atmosphere. Zero'd again and then i was reading the same as the board.
I was setting up a freezer super heat two weeks ago and it was zeroed out before I went in there and when I got done, I thought it was set then rechecked it and it was completely off. I don’t believe these are compensated like they claim. At least not on the probes. They’re too cheap to be able to be that. When I got out my 557 it worked just fine so I don’t 100% trust the probes. Like you said though they really need zero out in the ambient temperature they’re gonna be operating in after they’ve stabilized in temperature.
@HVACRSurvival I am not really impressed with the pressure probes. I stick to only using them for reach ins or prep tables. Even then, i usually just get the analogs with short hoses. I don't know if the field piece probes have the same issues, but I may switch to the field piece. I've had the sman380s for 5 years now, and I have not had a single issue. In fact, I still have the original temp clamps they came with.
@@HVACRSurvival I like my new(ish) Fieldpiece Sman's, they are more bulky than the Testo, but this newer one seems to hold a zero pretty good. That was annoying with my older fieldpiece, I could zero it out, and then after like 5-10 minutes I would have to zero it again. Was so frustrating to always remember to turn on the gauges right away before even taking them off the truck, to allow enough time for them to "warm up" and stop drifting. I think the one I have now is the SMAN 380v, not 100% sure tho.
I have to ask if any of you guys have a good aluminium foil to wrap on armaflex to protect from uv?
Thanks for the video
No problem!
Keep setting that bar Rick. WWRD
Hardly 😂. But thank you!
You do awesome work
I've never seen a reversing valve on a freezer. What is that blue marker that you use?
amzn.to/3AJ0dmn
You're awesome too Rick.
You’re too kind, thanks for watching!
You can't pull moisture out of POE oil?
Not like you can with mineral oil and a vacuum pump. POE oil doesn’t want to let go of the moisture as easily. The filler drier is the only way.
That was a fun video to watch. Thanks 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for reaching out! Your feedback it’s important!
Rick saved the day again
Those Masterbilt MAC units suck, I would have replaced that DTC as well
I had another composure on a Mac unit go bad today. I’m ordering the liquid injection valve.
Great video. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend. May I ask, why freezer use 3 way reversing valve heat pump ? and for freezer, which high , low pressure , Super heat, subcooling number is good ?
Defrost?
The reversing valve is used to melt the frost from the evaporator coil. Just like a heat-pump defrosts.
Gotta love those Mac units
Also I believe those units come with sporlan csg driers factory installed I don’t believe you need a bi flow drier for this unit
It’s the same design as a heat pump
This customer must have deep pockets! How much time did it take you to do all of this and are you running other calls on these days?? I average 12-14 hours a day running 5-8 calls while adding more Work orders cause theres always something else broken 😅 ( I do hot side and beverage machines too btw)
I normally run 4-6 calls if they are easy.
never heard of a 4 way reversing valve on a walk in cooler or freezer. Does the outdoor coil have a separate metering device for the defrost cycle?
Nope. But the EXV only opens 50% from what I’ve read in the comments.
Only place I've ever seen it is on fancy gelato freezers. Reverse cycle is way quicker than hot gas or electric on a single unit like that so helps limit the impact on product temp by means of a short defrost cycle. Neat stuff. Way more efficient too.
@@HVACRSurvival Yeah, that's to provide some restriction to build up pressure to provide some heat in the coil. I don't like those kind of systems, the problem is, in the winter on a cold windy day, you get about one good blast of hot gas, then the heat is gone, and even then, you still need electric heaters for the drain pan and drain line, so it's a waste. I have only used electric defrost since the late 1990's. Last one that I worked on, they were using a Bryant 4 ton heat pump for a condensing unit with 2 Larkin evaporators and a receiver remote mounted on the roof beside the unit. Was a real shitshow to get that working correctly. It wasn't a freezer per se, it was a meat cooler, with box temp control set to 30 cut in, 28 cut out. Even though that's not a freezer, anytime you have a desired box temp of less than 35, you can't use off cycle air defrost anymore.
Nice job, Rick! You got shit meter leads 😅
Wtf ever. Them are the best I’ve ever had and they’re made in the USA
@@HVACRSurvival 😆 you said it. Had me laughing.
I got it now 🤦 I’m slow sometimes
Why not flush the system?
Works it works good for line sets, but not so much for the condenser or evaporator coil.
Nice video. Great job 🙌👍😊👌🍀
🙏👍👍
That sight glass was burned upon brazing.
Yea and without nitrogen purge
How long have you been in the trade?
1995
It really shows. Thank you for the awesome videos!
@@HVACRSurvival That is about the time I got out of the trade because of injuries. Did a lot of work for that company you were servicing.
The store have their own maintenance guys, which they still do, but just like us they can’t find good qualified people so they only have a few guys now and now they us to take care of their several stores which are all spread out over Ohio.
What a Big ol McKnightmare
Nice video for not intending to be, site glass looked way better brother
Thanks. I’m updating my stock on Monday
you can only polish it so much
27:38😂😂😂😂
5 psi cut off. Nothijg lower. The scrolls dont like it
Agreed
Walgreens
Good Ole Mac units. I hatem!
Shit dressing with special sauce. Just throw two True condenser units up there with regular Txv’s and call it a day… when these things get old they waste more money on maintaining and repairing them than what they saved by putting them in to begin with.
@HVACRSurvival brother you're preaching to the choir. I've stood on the roof with a ops manager and asked why, his answer it's what McD wants. When I knew he was doing a remodel I asked don't use a Mac unit and if you must make it Heat Craft. He ends up putting in RPG/Master Junk. Some bean counter made this decision with in McD Corp and it stuck. If they used standard I could just run to a local vendor and boom fixed on the day but oh nooooooo....so a control board goes bad walk in down well guess what call a refrigerated truck out because the board need maybe 48 hrs to get here. Dumb!!!! Rant over lol
Cool man
✌️ hey John!
Acid away with every compressor change
I debated using it. I’ve used it in the past and never had a problem.
You're a magician, not a technician.
🤣😂👍👍
No, hes just a standard technician. You must’ve been let down by below standard technicians.
@@Youngbl33zy Nope, that's never happened to me. I hire contractors by reputation and customer references I trust, not by price.
Hi, I dislike Masterbuilt
341 thumbs up