Hi there, I should have been more careful. I believe that these sensor circuits are a much lower amperage than what is used to power the system, so less dangerous.
I have a similar problem and 2 questions. My outdoor unit is freezing up. Defrost tstat is closed and when the jumper is put into test mode, the unit goes into defrost until tstat opens. However when jumper is installed in normal op ,30/60/90, the defrost cycle does not run, (tstat is closed at this point) Is it possible that the defost timer on the pcb is bad ? I ordered a new defrost pcb. Is it ok to heat the house on Emergency Heat mode until pcb arrives ? Thanks
Hello. If the system begins defrost while in test mode, then I would expect that everything is functioning. The 30/60/90min timer only runs while the system is heating, so "30"min of system time could still be a few hours of real time. If your defrost is still never coming on, then yes maybe the timer is bad, or the temperature bulb is bad and it is unable to detect a frozen system. There is nothing wrong from a mechanical perspective running the Emergency Heat, but it uses about 4x as much electricity as the nominal heat pump process, so it will run up the bill. Best of luck!
The sensor is also relatively easy to replace. When we were in "test" mode and I pressed a wire against the two connectors to bond them, I was bypassing the Temp sensor which detects if frost has accumulated on the coils. If the defrost mode kicked on during my initial test, that would have indicated that the bulb wasn't functioning
Great video you can see how the blue parts on the board were slightly brown those resistors on my board were also shot must be common😅
Thank you so much for this video, exactly what I needed👌
Glad it was helpful!
It’s a Goodman with a bad defrost board. Imagine that!!!
On the final test I noticed your finger was touching the copper on the jumper wire. How come you did not get a shock? Good explanations.
Hi there, I should have been more careful. I believe that these sensor circuits are a much lower amperage than what is used to power the system, so less dangerous.
I have a similar problem and 2 questions.
My outdoor unit is freezing up.
Defrost tstat is closed and when the jumper is put into test mode, the unit goes into defrost until tstat opens.
However when jumper is installed in normal op ,30/60/90, the defrost cycle does not run, (tstat is closed at this point)
Is it possible that the defost timer on the pcb is bad ?
I ordered a new defrost pcb.
Is it ok to heat the house on Emergency Heat mode until pcb arrives ?
Thanks
Hello. If the system begins defrost while in test mode, then I would expect that everything is functioning. The 30/60/90min timer only runs while the system is heating, so "30"min of system time could still be a few hours of real time.
If your defrost is still never coming on, then yes maybe the timer is bad, or the temperature bulb is bad and it is unable to detect a frozen system. There is nothing wrong from a mechanical perspective running the Emergency Heat, but it uses about 4x as much electricity as the nominal heat pump process, so it will run up the bill.
Best of luck!
@practicalhomeprojects Thanks for your response.
It is much appreciated.
Thanks for the video , same unit same problem . Is that the same board you installed , or an upgraded version ? Have you had any more problems since?
Hi there. I bought the exact same board as was already installed.
What if the defrost bulb is defected... how would I determine whether or not to replace it?
The sensor is also relatively easy to replace. When we were in "test" mode and I pressed a wire against the two connectors to bond them, I was bypassing the Temp sensor which detects if frost has accumulated on the coils. If the defrost mode kicked on during my initial test, that would have indicated that the bulb wasn't functioning
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