Clutch Pedal Rebuild - Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
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In this video we show you how to renew the parts on the clutch pedal for your 3rd Gen 4runner or 1st Gen Tacoma. Sometimes you’ll find the wear is excessive on the clutch pedal itself and you’ll want to replace that as well. We show you how to remove the clutch pedal assembly from your vehicle, get all the wear parts renewed, and then get it reinstalled on your rig.
*PARTS*
#90386-05018 - Bushings for the ends of the torsion spring
#90389-05017 - Bushing for the center of the torsion spring
#90949-03022 - Torsion Spring
This Ebay seller sells the above 3 parts as a kit.
ebay.us/a0Je5k
#31415-30030 - Clutch Master Cylinder Gasket (4Runner's)
www.toyotapart...
#31415-10010 - Clutch Master Cylinder Gasket (TACOMA'S)
#31310-35050 - Clutch Pedal
amzn.to/3hstwLs
#90386 -13007 - Clutch Pedal Shaft Bushings
www.toyotapart...
*Dot 3 Brake Fluid
amzn.to/33ZK8TF
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*Small Pick Tool Set - (Used to help separate vacuum hoses from fittings)
amzn.to/2MyN4AH
*90 Degree Needle Nose Pliers - (Used to release vacuum hose clamps)
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*Straight Needle Nose Pliers - (Used for various functions for this repair)
amzn.to/2pQ6yIa
*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet - (Great tool to expedite removal and reinstallation of fasteners for this job)
amzn.to/2utRZsE
*Milwaukee M12 Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
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*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
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*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (Very functional ratchet set that will make your wrenching life easier)
amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*Stubby 3/8” Flex Head Ratchet - (it use to be available for sale separately but now we can only find it as part of this 4-piece set) amzn.to/39kQVit
*Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding longer tools like ratchets and wrenches) amzn.to/2m89y0D
*Medium Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good Size for keeping track of fasteners/small parts) amzn.to/2ky8Qt8
*Small Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray Set (Good for holding lug nuts or smaller fasteners/parts) amzn.to/3l5KnHg
*Mitivac Fluid Extractor - (Used to extract brake fluid from clutch master cylinder)
amzn.to/2q0m7xz
*Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set - (Used on clutch master cylinder line fitting)
amzn.to/32GoIdy
*Vacuum Cap Kit - (Used a 7/32 cap from this kit to block flow of fluid from the clutch master cylinder line)
amzn.to/31hXY2G
*Yost Bench Vice - (This is the one I used in the video. Great quality)
amzn.to/2ofa4LD
*Yost 6” Aluminum Vice Jaw Caps - (Aluminum jaws are smart to use because aluminum is softer than steel and won’t mar the surface of item you’re clamping in the vice)
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*3 Piece Channel Lock Set - (Used a pair from this set to release and reinstall the torsion spring)
amzn.to/33Hj4rE
*Long Taper Punch Set - (Used a punch from this set to remove the torsion spring bushings out of the clutch assembly bracket)
amzn.to/2O7o5Wx
*Mini Grease Gun - (used to apply grease to the bushings and clutch pedal sleeve)
amzn.to/2KKDXf2
*Red Devil All Purpose Grease - (Grease used in the mini grease gun. Good all purpose grease)
amzn.to/2O9DXY3
*Offset Box End Wrench Set - (Used on clutch slave cylinder bleed nipple. The offset wrenches are great for bleeding brakes because the offset allows you to get onto the bleeder very easily without having to remove the wheel)
amzn.to/2sei01t
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
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I don't care what other people say but you are the best presenter on TH-cam. I am also not an American so I appreciate your use of Metrics.
Thanks for the great compliment about my presentation skills. My use of metrics is necessary because all the fasteners were made in metric sizes and not fractional.
Nice repair video! Thanks for the nut and tape hint! And very cool, oldschool all metal clutch pedal.
Thanks and you're welcome!
I never leave comments on these videos. This one is an excellent example of a very informative video. You guys are very good with the details involved with getting er done. I truly believe this video will be very helpful in knowing all the things to look for on my 1995 F150 fix . It's a pleasure seeing a video so in depth for a repair.
I'd like to thank you fellas for sharing your extremely valuable and well organized descriptions of even the small details. You have a new follower my friend. Thanks for your time and extra effort in sharing your experiences very much !!!
Hey Jimmy, thanks for the very nice compliment of our work. We really appreciate it! And, thanks for subscribing to our channel. Happy Wrenching!
I have an auto trans. But after seeing this video and also fixing my sloppy shifter a while back, I decided to do my brake pedal bushings. No side play in the brake pedal now - like brand new. This video helped me a lot and I wanted to say thanks to yous. Can't wait to get a 20t press in the new year...
That's cool you were able to fix the slop in your brake pedal by using this video as a reference. You're very welcome. When you go to Harbor Freight to buy the press, have them open the box and take a look at the pressing cross member that the bottle jack sits on. Quite often that pressing bar is welded on pretty crooked. I don't think any of them are perfect because they're using some cross-eyed welder in China, but maybe you can get one that fairly straight. The press does work very well though and the price is definitely right.
Life is good, a new Timmy video to enjoy. WooHoo! I also did not see the nut fall out after using the tape. Nope saw nothing.
Glad Sean and I could make your day.
Nice job fixing to do that on my 02 Tacoma. I've watched some of your other videos. Very good info.
Thanks Travis. We appreciate your comment.
I think I now know why I hear metal on metal when shifting my 92 pickup. Thanks!
@@raymondowilson8537 You're welcome.
Thank you so much for making this video. I replaced my whole pedal assembly yesterday solo 99 4Runner and this video was very helpful
You're very welcome Taylor. Great to hear our video helped you out. We appreciate you taking the time to comment and let us know. Happy Wrenching!
what was the need and purpose of you doing that ? ? ? curious curious curious ...
@@efil4kizum My 4Runner had 300,000 miles. The plastic bushings on the clutch assembly wore out years ago and the pivot points were metal on metal. That wore out the metal and the clutch pedal was hard to use, very squeaky and not enjoyable to drive.
@@taylorbarnes5377 my '97 taco (343k miles) has always had that squeaky pedal during certain times of the year cold or humid out (as well as a shift fork squeak that is now gone with it's 1st new clutch + new shift fork in 27 years) the master/slave cylinder went bad at about 200k miles (pedal would not fully return in Reverse) i had the yota tech that replaced those items several years ago fully lubricate + grease the pedal bushings, spring, joints etc. while he was right there and there was NO more squeak that lasted for a very quiet 135k miles (except for the nasty shift pivot fork squeak inside the bell housing)... the pedal is now squeaking again once and awhile after the new clutch parts
Your video is the only way that fixes this the absolute correct way. You should change your title of the video I thought I lost it !
Awesome video! Helped me replace all my bushing in my 1st gen Tacoma
Thanks Marcus. Great to hear our video helped you out.
This was soooo helpful! Thank you
Good to hear Dalton. You're very welcome.
If I just wanted to do the 3 piece kit on the clutch pedal I wouldn't have to remove the master cylinder and drain it etc right? I could just pull the pin and then remove the clutch pedal assembly and install the bushings correct? Thank you
Yeah, that's correct.
Love my 3rd Gen 5-speed I need this got all new clutch pressure plate mc and sc. Clutch still iffy. Gonna try this.
Hell yeah brotha! thanks for leaving a comment. We hope you subscribe!
Thank you Timmy you got them all brother. I needed this video my cruise control doesn’t work on my five speed in the clutch pedal. I have to kick it up cover me first gear is a bit tricky but I think I’m going to have to do this rebuilt.
Hope you can get it fixed. Good luck with the job.
Hey Timmy, best thing about getting another 4Runner is I get to watch your videos again! This time scored a manual 2000 3.4 Sport. Pretty excited.
I'm a bit surprised there wasn't enough room to slip a new gasket onto the firewall studs there... Or did you just disconnect the lines in the abundance of caution?
I can't remember but I think we didn't want to tweak the lines to get the gasket in there.
Does this clutch pedal fit a 1998 T100???? I know you added all the parts in description. I want to rebuild mine as well but I don't want to buy the parts and they won't fit.
I'm not sure Carlos. Your best bet is visiting your local Toyota dealer to get the right parts.
I lost one of the nuts that hold the master cylinder onto the firewall that are hard to put on.. do you know the part number or what that nut is called? I cannot find it anywhere. Thank you
Go to your local Toyota dealer. They'll be able to get it for you.
3RZ 5 speed gang 🤘🏽
swagger
Where can I purchase the whole clutch pedal assembly for 2004 Tacoma V6 ?
Not sure if Toyota still carries it, but I'd check with your local dealer and see if they do.
did this, more or less, today. two things: R&R of the clutch pedal is doable without disconnecting the hydraulic line of the master cylinder; and be careful what bushings you buy, since not every one labeled compatible actually fits. thanks for the vid.
Hey Leif, thanks for the info. I don't know if it was clear in the video, but the reason why we removed the clutch master cylinder was to replace that gasket between the master cylinder and the firewall. We didn't want to massively tweak the fluid line so that's why we disconnected it.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yep, and a good plan to avoid hurting the line. For whatever reason, mine moved with no problem. We had recently replaced the master cylinder so no need to replace the gasket this time around. Thanks again for your great vids. They're a massive confidence-builder.
@@leifrudd8934 Good job getting it done. You're saving yourself tons of money doing your own work while learning more about your vehicle.
Here are a few shortcuts: 1st) You don't need to drain the clutch master cylinder, don't even remove the cap or use a flare-nut wrench. Just remove the two nuts on either side of the master cylinder(MC) that attach it to the fire-wall. Under the dash, unplug any electrical connectors from the clutch and remove the pin that connects the MC fork to the clutch pedal arm. Under the hood, pull the master cylinder back an inch or two, but not all the way out, only about half way, (half the distance relative to the parts that protrude under the dash), so it sits near the end of the two bolts. (The fork never needs to pass through the fire-wall to complete the entire job.) 2nd) Remove the bolt under the dash that secures the clutch pedal assembly. Once the bolt is removed, then carefully depress the clutch pedal towards the floor, being aware that the spring is still in play, but the three bolts have been removed that secure everything. There's not a lot of force from the spring but you don't want to pinch your fingers or have the pedal-assembly move suddenly and damage wires under the dash. Once the clutch is depressed toward the floor you can tilt the pedal upwards and it should make it easier to remove from under the dash. 3rd) Rebuild the pedal as per the video, but before you reinstall the pedal, make sure you install the MC gasket through the firewall. Surprisingly, you can install the gasket from under the dash. The trick is that you need to curl, (not fold or crease---just curl), the thin round edges of the gasket so that it will fit through the hole. Use something, maybe an empty toilet-paper or paper-towel tube, to flex the gasket down it's length. So one bolt hole on one end of the tube and the other bolt hole toward the opposite end of the tube. Basically just role the gasket a little bit, primarily the thin rounded ring parts. You only need to curve it just enough to reduce it's width so you can slip through the hole in the fire-wall. So once it's curled properly, take it under the dash, slip it over the MC fork, stick one end of the gasket through the hole, manipulate the MC fork a little, to help you get the other end of the gasket through the hole, and now the gasket is on the correct side of the firewall and you're almost done. Be careful once you get the gasket in place that you try to keep the bolt holes lines up and everything so that when you install the clutch and start manipulating the master cylinder that the bolts don't damage the gasket. I used a little bit of blue masking tape to try to keep the bolt holes lines up. I didn't have an extra gasket, but I suppose it wouldn't hurt to have one in case yours isn't as flexible as mine was or you have an accident.
Install the clutch pedal and finish everything up and you're done, never once having had to empty the clutch master cylinder or even extract the MC through the fire-wall, (other than a few inches.)
Thanks for sharing your technique.
FYI, the clutch is self bleeding. you can just open the bleeder and let the fluid drain downwards, any trapped air will eventually work it's way into the reservoir.
Hmmm. How long would you have to let it gravity bleed? When we did a 3.0 to 3.4 Swap on a 2nd Gen 4runner, that clutch slave cylinder was a pain to bleed. We had to put a clamp on it to get it bled.
Tim ....I was waiting for you to talk about the clutch play adjustment and how to adjust the nut on the rod which I believe is supposed to be adjusted and you didn't talk about the pedal play .... : (
This video wasn't about adjusting clutch play adjustment because his clutch play was already good. But, we have a video that discusses adjusting clutch play. th-cam.com/video/mrSRBmFZ1wk/w-d-xo.html Go to play time 45 minutes 45 seconds.
Hey timmy got a question were did you guys get the red anodized aluminum pullys im looking to replace all my pullys on my 2000 4runner any info would be amazing @Timmy The Toolman
Thanks!
Thanks a bunch John! We really appreciate the support! Monetarily and of course through watching our content. Glad we were able to help!
- Sean
Are the clutch pedal braket and assembly the same on the 1st gen tacoma and a 3rd gen 4runner. In the middle of a 5 speed swap and all i can find is a tacoma clutch and brake pedal assembly
I'm assuming they are but I can't say for sure.
Hey Timmy the Toolman,
I have a small question, do you know if Toyota made a Limited trim Sport Package model? I don't see one anywhere, and i own one. It's a 2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Limited V6 Sport Package.
Seems kinda crazy, but cool. I think only SR5's came with the Sport Package. Sounds like i got a factory freak model.
I'm not sure on this. T4R.org has a thread that might have the answer you're seeking. Here's the link: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/82033-3rd-gen-4runner-buyers-guide.html
The torque on that through bolt is 25ft-lbs according to the standard torque chart in the beginning of your service manual. It's a JIS Class 5T bolt with M10x1.25 threads.
Thanks Jacob. This might be more accurate than the "Gudentite" spec Todd tightened it to.
Hey man I been watching your videos trying to get ready to do a little tlc on my 2002 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner like valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and fuel injectors what is that book you always use as a reference on these videos?
It's a Toyota Factory Service Manual. Do an Ebay search and you should be able to find a manual set for sale for your year Tacoma.
Appreciate it brother!!
@@geronimo6830 You're welcome.
I found a set on amazon cheaper than I could get on eBay! Got lucky they had one left for my year model!! I really appreciate it man. And looking forward to more videos. In addition to my 2002 Prerunner I also have a ‘94 pickup 4x4 with the 22re in it. I hope you get to do some videos on one of them. Lol it needs more love than my prerunner does. I really enjoy your videos I found myself watching other you’ve done because there is just a lot of stuff to be learned from the way you do things. Looking forward to more of em.
@@geronimo6830 That's great you found an affordable set for sale. I do have a couple videos working on a 22RE engine since I bought an 85 4runner a couple years ago. Great to hear you're learning some helpful things from our videos.
Great Video. If you just want to just replace the plastic bushings for the Torsion Spring do you have to remove the whole pedal from the car? I know its a tight space to work in there but is it possible? I would like to avoid having to remove the Evap system and master cylinder just to replace 3 bushings.
Don't know if you could do it like you want. If you try it, let us know how it went.
Do you have a link to the parts?
Open the video description by clicking on "Show More". We list all the parts there.
Ltb 2004 tacoma 4 door driver front door panel and electricals for windows/door locks. Color grey/gray panel preferred. Cash on hand. 🙏
Are you asking for Tacoma parts?
@@TimmyTheToolman looking to buy
My bushings for the spring are toast. I wonder if that would prevent the clutch from returning all the way. I've always had to use my toe to pull the pedal back the last 1/2 inch. I've had the problem for years. It's not the clutch play adjustment and have replaced the master cylinder.
It could be. Some people have also chosen to do away with the OEM spring set-up and install a linear return spring hooked to the pedal and then hooked to part of the body under the dash. If you look under the dash at your brake pedal return spring, it's a spring like that.
@@TimmyTheToolman Replaced the bushings today. Had the two white ones and went to the stealership for the middle spring one. They charged more than MSRP! Anyway it was a bear getting that spring back in place without a bench vise and proceeded to obliterate that center bushing I just bought. The white ones were pretty bad and one almost wore all the way threw the metal to the outer part of the plate. Guess I caught it just in time and now the pedal returns to normal. Thanks Timmy for all you do... Valve covers are next.
@@schadlarry Good job getting it done Larry. Have fun with the valve cover gasket job.
Great video doing this asap.
Thanks Connor. Good luck with the job.
Hey Timmy any tips to lubing/cleaning the reels on a 3gen electric seat?
From the write-ups we've seen on the Toyota forums, you should really take the seat guides apart and clean then grease the plastic gears.
Timmy quick question if I depress my clutch pedal and it doesn’t fully come back up unless I drag it the rest of the way up with my foot does that mean the spring is no good? Or what can be the cause of this issue?
It could definitely be the spring. I would get under the dash board and have a look.
Hey Tim, Is this applicable to a 1st gen Tacoma? I purchased the torsion spring because my clutch is starting to sag ever so slightly and not allowing me to use my cruise control. While I’m in there I might as well replace everything else.
Yes, this would be the same for a 1st Gen Tacoma.
Ditch the spring, my 1st gen Tacoma had lots of spring and pedal wear, and I welded a new pedal spring mount, but I decided to try without the spring,j and there is so much more feel in the pedal without the spring. The spring doesn’t seem to do that much work pushing the clutch 5-10 pounds more force without the spring, nothing I didn’t get used to in a week.
@@jamb312 Thanks for sharing your opinion and option for the clutch pedal.
Just something to be aware of: The slave cylinder gasket is not the same on a 1st gen V6 Tacoma it is part #31415-10010 I do think it is the same on a 3rd gen 4 Runner V6 best to check it out.
We really appreciate information like this. So thank you. we will update the video description so people with Tacoma's know the correct part number.
Can you do this job without disconnecting the hydraulic line?
You probably could. You would probably want to put something under the clutch master cylinder to support it so pressure isn't being placed on the line.
i just did part of this job, though timmy's approach is more thorough and avoids risk. i re-greased the bushings only, and removing the pedal assy can be done by removing the one upper bolt, the two nuts on the clutch master cylinder, and the electrical connections. back off the master cylinder away from the firewall a little, but not to the point that it's hanging and hurting the line, as timmy alluded to. i was able to maneuver out the pedal assy.
Does this also mean no need for a new gasket if just changing the bushings and spring?
how's the headers going ;)
Jordan hasn't said anything about it so I'm assuming everything is A OK.
@@TimmyTheToolman was the install easy? there gonna be a video on it?
@@lukeneave I made a mistake. I thought your comment was about our friend Jordan installing a header on his 3RZ motor. Installing headers on a 5VZ-FE engine would be difficult. I sort of doubt we'll ever make this video, but I guess never say never. I think the difficulty level of this job totally outweighs any perceived benefit other than bragging rights you have headers on your 3rd Gen.
Im sure y'all have heard about adding an older style spring in there instead of that horrible OEM style. Theres actually a little tab in there and most clip the other end onto the pin that connects the master cylinder to the pedal
www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-squeak-linear-spring-swap-tw-how-to.159429/
Yes, we've heard of it. It was Rob's rig and it was his choice to keep the OEM style return spring.
Yeah for sure. Im wondering if it would be ok over time. These guys on tacoma time are raving about it.
Also saw a guy that made his own bushings out of brass
Brake fluid dripped on the grass kills it, I wonder what it does to your skin.
It doesn't burn your skin, but what does it do being absorbed into your body? It's good practice to wear gloves when working with automotive greases, oils and fluids but I'd be a liar if I said I always wore gloves. When I was younger working on vehicles, I never wore gloves. Now I wear them most of the time I pick up a wrench.
@@TimmyTheToolman When I was a teenager (I'm 10 years younger than you) I always had skin peeling off the end of my thumbs and fingers and couldn't figure out why. Then I figured out it was from the grease and oil I was always getting on my hands from mountain bike maintenance. For some reason I am "allergic" to it. So now I always wear gloves and when one breaks and lets grease in my thumb starts peeling. Like you say, probably a good thing because it forces me to wear gloves.
Wish I had a 3ed pedal 😭
you could do a manual swap!
22:56
Is there something you wanted to say about that time stamp?
hey Tim wondering if you do side jobs, im here in cali and need some work done sent a dm on instagram any advice would be appreciated.
I use to do jobs for people but not anymore. If you have a job we haven't filmed yet, I would be interested.
Ok
Ok what?