Upper Ball Joint Replacement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ย. 2018
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*PLEASE READ THIS AND THE COMMENT WE PINNED FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video we show you how to replace the upper balljoints on a 3rd Gen Toyota 4runner. This would also be the same steps to replace the upper balljoints on a 1st Gen Toyota Tacoma since the front suspension on those two vehicles are the same.
*TORQUE VALUES*
Upper Balljoint Castle Nut - 80 ft-lbf
Lower Balljoint Castle Nut - 105 ft-lbf
Outer Tie Rod Castle Nut - 67 ft-lbf
Brake Caliper Bolts - 90 ft-lbf
CV Axle Nut - 174 ft-lbf
Wheel Lug Nuts - 85 ft-lbf
*PARTS*
*Upper Balljoint - #43310-39016
amzn.to/2ssyLpK
*Upper Balljoint Reboot Kit - #43324-39015
www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/t...
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythet...
*6 Ton Jack Stands
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*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chock
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*Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray
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*Medium Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray
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*Small Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray
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*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
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*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
amzn.to/2OehCao
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
amzn.to/32WIh0M
*Straight Needle Nose Pliers - (used to remove cotter pins and install new ones)
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*20 Piece Screwdriver Set - (nice complete set)
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*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (used the 3/8" ratchet in this video. These ratchets are super functional and will make your wrenching life easier)
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*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet - (used for the bigger fasteners)
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*1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set
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*1/2" Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set
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*Brake Caliper Hanger Hooks - (much better than using bailing wire)
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*Plastic Mallet - (to break free rotor from hub face)
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*Rotary Hammer Chisel Set - (slim chisels to help get axle nut hub cover off)
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*Chisel & Punch Set - (used chisels from this kit to get hub cover off)
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*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set - (used small prybar to pop off hub cover)
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*Knipex Diagonal Cutters - (to remove cotter pins and cut them to size)
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*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun - (to remove lug nuts and several other fasteners for this job)
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*Dewalt 3/8" Impact Gun - (used for UBJ castle nut)
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*Dewalt Batteries
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*Dewalt Battery Charger
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*Large Metric Impact Socket Set (29mm-38mm) - (has 35mm socket for axle nut)
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*OTC Front End Service Kit - (has pullers used for this job)
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*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set
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*Yost Bench Vice - (Vice I used for this job)
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*Yost 6” Aluminum Vice Jaw Caps - (to protect the parts your clamping)
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*Snap Ring Pliers - (used to remove balljoint snap ring)
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*Emery Cloth Roll - (to clean up steering knuckle)
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*Anti-Sieze - (used on face off hub)
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*CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench
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*Cotter Pin Set
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*Brake Cleaner - (to clean up rotors)
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*Mini Grease Gun - (used to lubricate ABS sensor o-ring)
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*Red Devil All Purpose Grease - (grease for gun)
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*Balljoint Presss and Associated Adapters
*OTC-7249 Ball Joint Service Set
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*I bought all the special adapters from Coastal Tool Supply www.coastaltoolsupply.com/
*Part Numbers and What I Paid:
OTC-538591 Adapter, Removing $20.89
OTC-38354 Receiving Cup $24.38
OTC-314392 Plug $9.55
OTC-38355A Installing Cup $25.25
OTC-313968 Remover $10.43
Shipping: Standard Shipping: $8.85
Total: $203.80
**PDF on how to assemble all the adapters with the c-press to get the job done. www.otctools.com/sites/defaul...
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*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
**Important Safety Message**: That 2 jaw puller I used from the OTC kit to break the UBJ free of the UCA can fly off from it's purchase when the connection finally breaks free. Be careful when using this type of puller. Possibly putting something solid between the puller in you while tightening down the screw would be prudent so the puller can't go flying into you.
**12/13/19 - Brian Kiesel commented sharing that he used an impact gun in combination with his balljoint press to press the upper balljoint out of the knuckle. This enabled him to keep the knuckle on the vehicle because the impact generates a lot of force without any need to properly stabilizing the knuckle like we show doing by removing the whole knuckle off the vehicle and securing it in a bench vice. With conventional ratchets and breaker bars, it's hard to generate the force required to drive the balljoint out and the new one back in with the knuckle not stable. So, if you have an impact gun, this could be an option for you if you don't want to take the additional steps to pull the whole knuckle off the vehicle and secure it in bench vice for the press work like we did. One thing I would watch out for when using an impact for this job is pressing the new balljoint in. You want to make sure the balljoint is driving in really straight because things can happen very fast when using an impact as opposed to conventional tools. You'd probably want to put your gun on a low setting like Brian did and use very quick bursts with the impact to see the balljoint is going in straight, and then once it is, you could be more aggressive and drive it the rest of the way. Another thing to consider is if the balljoint press you have is rated for impact use - I did a quick search online and appears plenty of people use impact guns with their balljoint presses. A common comment is to make sure the screw bar threads are lubricated really well so there won't be any undo wear to the threads.
I wonder if you got a heavy rubber band and put it over the puller before you put it on, if that would help keep it from flying back?
@@toastrecon That's not a bad idea but maybe something more sturdy than a rubber band. I'm thinking a section of a rubber bicycle tube that I could wrap around the tines on the puller really tight so when the connection breaks free the arms can fling out and cause the puller to launch and become a projectile. Thanks for the idea.
Why would anybody use that piece of shit puller that doesn't come with the right size shit?
@@TimmyTheToolman I watched every video you have in TH-cam, every video is very helpful, Mr. You are the master. Thanks for everything you share with us. 👍👍👍👍
@@luisabrahancoreas.3506 Thanks for taking the time to comment Luis. We appreciate your kind words. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching.
I'm about to start this same project. I was looking for some more info, and man did I find it. This is the best "how to" video I've seen for work like this. You did a great job explaining each step, and the camera work is stellar. But the fifth star is extra time you took at the end of the video to show the specific cups needed to press the UBJ out. Great job. You may have saved me hours of time running around while my truck is on jack stands looking for stuff you cannot easily buy at Autozone. I have two buddies with Tacomas, and I will direct them to this video.
That’s great to hear Mark! We hope you caught our mistake on where to leave the twisted wire. We mention it in the video at the end. For those of your friends who are replacing their entire UCA and not just the joint, refer to this video th-cam.com/video/noBts3Qf5rw/w-d-xo.html where we show another method to removing the ball joint itself by cutting off the shaft first to fit the ball joint adapters over easier for the press work.
- Sean
I'm glad to see this done with so much attention to detail. Thank you Tim, for all your hard work and enthusiasm! This is great work! 👍
Glad you appreciate the detail we offer. You're very welcome and thanks for the nice compliment. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman I very much appreciate the attention to detail you provide as well
@@efil4kizum Thanks for saying so. We do our best to give enough detail and instruction that a beginner can do it. Happy Wrenching!
This is by far the best video I’ve seen. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge. I’ll be doing my upper and lowers for my first time and this video has given me a lot more confidence in tackling this job.
Thanks for the nice compliment Doug. You're very welcome and good luck with the job.
Great video, like how everything is well lit when you're filming, easy to see all the parts properly, and good speed of taking it apart, good pace, good instruction, you're a pro!
Hey Jim, Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Excellent coverage and tooling without damaging any boots brother Tim! Really like OTC's products. When I change my brakes, I have been washing all boot material with soap/water, then spraying Silicone over boots. I've noticed less cracking of the rubber! Another fine video my brother!!
Hey Brother Jake, glad you like the video. Yeah, that OTC front end service kit has been awesome. I've gotten a ton of use out of it.
Honestly you are a great mechanic!! Thanks for all the details!👍🏾
Thanks! We appreciate the nice compliment. Details are what we are about. We want anyone who's willing to take on the challenge of Auto Mechanics to be successful using one of our video tutorials. Having very detailed videos gives people the confidence and ability to tackle intimidating jobs. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Excellent work. Thanks for the time to create the video!!
I'm considering a 4Runner ball joint mod on my 1988 Toyota 4x4 van to help provide some lift, so this was a great introduction to the process. Much appreciated.
Sounds interesting. I've never heard of this mod.
Thank you so much for these videos. Everyone has helped me do these projects just as you described down to the size socket needed and torque specs to go back together.
Kenneth Fike Sicmods Ken! 💪🏼
Thanks so much for this! Super detailed and easy to follow with tons of info!
You're very welcome. Glad you found our video helpful.
Fantastic video as always! Great to see how "easy" it can be- it was a beast when I did it!
We're glad you like the video. With the right tools, it's fairly straight forward. Having all those specific balljoint adapters probably made it easier for me instead of having to do the best with what the kit I bought or rented came with. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Great job! Thanks for making these videos.
You're welcome Tim. Glad you like the videos Sean and I are making and we appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
I have found that it is always a good idea to put anti-seize on the threads of any threaded puller, press, or compressor tool so the threads don't jam or strip under extreme pressure. I have tried grease and it doesn't do the job. Anti-seize is the way to go. Great video.
Thanks for the tip.
Thank you for all the great videos and knowledge. It has really helped a lot over the years.
@@gwdeals It's our pleasure to supply people with quality DIY videos to use and benefit from. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Having problems installing with a ball joint installer I borrowed from advance Auto. You're diagram on proper placement saved my ass. Work perfectly! thank you so much!
Solid! Thanks for stopping by the comments section. #sicmods
Excellent!! Your videos and tips are spot-on! I just bought a '98 4Runner and your series lets me know if I want to tackle it or just pay someone to do it! I've seen a bunch of terrible DIY videos, but yours is *not* one of them - having someone else work the camera, the lighting, the speeding up of the "boring" parts, etc. You clearly know how to do it! Thanks!!! -Daryl in Seattle
Thanks Daryl. Sean and I are glad you approve of the videos we've been making. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Excellent vid. I'm replacing most of my front end suspension components on my 05 Tundra this weekend and I'll use this vid as my guide.
We're glad you like it. Good luck with all the work.
Excelent tutorial Timmy you are so professional
Thanks Piedad. We appreciate the nice compliment.
Awsome video! This helped out tremendously!!..makes it easy to do upper and lower thanks Timmy!
Thanks Chris. Great to hear our video helped you out. You're very welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
😮! What a great Professional video!!
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the nice compliment Jose. We appreciate it. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Aloha~ Thank you for your attention to detail! Seem to work on clients’ cars as if they were your own. Good for you! And good for your clients.
One alternative to the locking washer would be to have a big washer with the axle hole size then end over two sides towards the nut and one or both of the other sides the other way and drill a hole or grind a notch for the cotter pin.
Glad you appreciate the detail we offer in the video. Thanks for the comment and suggestion.
I love your videos man. You are appreciated 🤙🏼
Thanks Luis.
SUBSCRIBED! Great video Tim.
Thanks!
Thanks for making these videos. You have saved me thousands of dollars.
I just did this job yesterday. I found it wasn't neccessary to remove the whole knuckle from the vehicle. Also, I couldn't get the snap ring out so I press the ring out with the ball joint. It took more chugga chugga with the impact but it worked...Thanks again for the videos..
You're very welcome Brian. Great to hear you've saved lots of money using our videos. That puts a smile on our faces every time. That's great you were able to do the UBJ swap keeping the knuckle on the vehicle and I suppose using the impact with your balljoint press made that a whole lot easier to do. I didn't consider using an impact with the balljoint press but now I know it's an option, so thanks. Did you also use the impact to drive the new balljoint into the knuckle?
Without an impact, it's hard to generate the force required with standard ratchets or breaker bars to force the UBJ out because the knuckle isn't stable like it was for me in the bench vice. So, for anyone without an impact gun, it's good we shared the way we did it with pulling the knuckle completely off the vehicle. I'm going to add a note in the comment I pinned sharing your impact gun technique. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share this with us. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes, I used the Impact to press the ball joint in. I turned it down to low and went slow. Making sure it was seating in the knuckle straight. I agree doing it this way on the vehicle without an impact would be very difficult, because the knuckle sways around on the lower ball joint.
@@briankiesel2742 Thanks Brian. I added your technique to the comment I pinned. Check it out and let me know what you think how I worded it.
@@TimmyTheToolman Looks good. Hope it helps some folks out...
Do you have a Toyota Tacoma 4x4? How did you secure the knuckle to remove the old UBJ and install the new UBJ? I have a 1/2 " Makita impact wrench, so if it saves me time and frustration to press out the old UBJ and press in the new UBJ, I am very interested in your technique.
This is a great educational video. Outstanding!
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it!
Tim, thanks again for taking the time and fixing my UBJ's. Video turned out great. & sorry for not being able to make it to the bbq!
My pleasure Frank. Thanks for trusting me with your rig. Hopefully you and Daniel can make it to our next party.
Great job my man
Thanks Bro!
Thank you so much for the info
You got a new subscriber 👍
Keep up the great work 👌
And I’ll see you in the next one!
You're very welcome. Thanks for subscribing.
Awesome work keep em comin🤟
Thanks Luke, we will.
Great info and a spectacular job well done. The investment of having all the tools really pays off. Thank you timmy 👌🏽💯
Thanks for the compliment, and yes, the right tools really can make all the difference.on how well a job goes for you. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Undoubtedly one of the best, most comprehensive tutorials I have ever watched on doing a repair job. Excellent commentary and video work. What camera did you use?
Thanks for the very nice compliment. We appreciate it. We were using a GoPro Hero 5 with an external mic.
Very good video.Thanks!
You're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Very thorough. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment. We appreciate the view
Excellent how to video!! Now I'll know what to do if and when my UBJ's need replacing.... Thanks Timmy (My Name Too)!! Have 140K Miles on my '05 PreRunner, and the UBJ's, LBJ's, and boots are still all good....
Thanks for the compliment Tim. We appreciate it!
Best tutorial video there’s out there mr 👍🤝👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿👏🏿
Thanks MAN. We hope you caught our mistake on where to leave the twisted wire. We mention it in the video at the end. If you’re replacing the entire UCA and not just the joint, refer to this video th-cam.com/video/noBts3Qf5rw/w-d-xo.html where we show another method to removing the ball joint itself by cutting off the shaft first to fit the ball joint adapters over easier for the press work. This method can save you from needing the special adapter cups.
- Sean
Very well done video. It is has been extremely helpful for me!
Thanks for the comment. We're glad you found our video helpful.
Great repair timmy
Thanks Antonio. Glad you like it.
Thanks Timmy, u the man!
You're very welcome Jacob!
Great video! Im doing this in 105* Las Vegas heat.
Thanks and we're glad you like the video. I've wrenched in some hot weather but not quite that hot. Hope the job went smooth for you.
excellent video , very informative . the best i've seen
Thanks Jeffrey! We appreciate the nice compliment of our work.
Thanks for a great video.
You're very welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
You work with the same style as me, you’re a honest mechanic, I can just tell!
Thanks Cruz. When we make videos working on people's rigs, we aren't charging them for our services. We are working for free. But, I would agree that we are very honest and try to give the best information possible in our videos. When we make a mistake, we own it and let people know. There's nothing wrong with making mistakes but you need to learn from it and not hide it. Thanks for the comment. We appreciate it!
@@TimmyTheToolman where are you guys located,
@@Cruz0604 We're in San Jose, California.
Hey Tim, love the videos sir. got my lower ball joints, front wheel bearing, front rotors and brakes replaced due to your videos. Thanks a bunch.
That's great to hear you've benefited from several of our videos. We appreciate you taking the time to comment and sharing this with us. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Thanks Timmy very nice video
Thanks Charlie. We appreciate the compliment.
thank you Timmy very informative and easy Alohaz
You're very welcome Chris. Glad our video helped you out.
Great job
Thanks Carl.
Timmy! Nice job bro!!! Just what I was looking for. Sub'd!
We're glad you like the video Rob. Good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!
Loving that pro shirt with the pajama pants 😅😍😍😍
Glad you approve of my wardrobe.
Great video. I’m using this as the guide to replace a ball joint on my ‘19 tundra due to a ripped boot.
At 22:57, I think 7248 is the clamp’s part number. The third part you may need is OTC 314392 which is a forcing screw plug for the clamp. With the 7248 clamp, 314392 forcing screw plug, 538591 adapter, and 38354 receiving cup, you should be good to go for this job.
Hope the replacement went smooth for you.
Another excellent detailed TTT UBJ tutorial and the best on TH-cam. My 2002 Tacoma 4x4 UBJs with 168k miles are leaking grease and my tires are showing extreme wear on the inside. I suspect the worn UBJs have caused an extreme misalignment. It look like when I replaced my UBJs I might be prudent for me replace the LBJs and the Outer Tie rod since I will have the knuckles off my Tacoma.
Before you go and replace the UBJs, check them for play. They might be fine and all you need is to buy the affordable boot kits that we link in the video description. LBJs are smart to replace because they are known to fail. If the outer tie rods have play or torn boots, I'd replace them. If the joints seem fine and the boots are intact, I wouldn't replace them. Uneven tire wear seems more like a problem with the alignment toe. I suspect your wheels are toed out too much. I'm trying to get you to avoid spending money on things that don't need replacing and find the real reason why your tires are wearing unevenly. Good luck!
@@TimmyTheToolman I checked the LBJs for play and they have plenty of play. My LBJs have 168k miles on them, look ok but I am told since I go off road it would be prudent to replace them as they are 20 years old with 168K miles . One tie rod is o but the other has play so I will replace both. Thanks Tim for the advice and keep making excellent videos.
@@thedetective8150 Ok Brandon, good luck with the work.
@@TimmyTheToolman With your videos guiding me it should be easy peasy. 😀
Instructional video at it's finest.
Thanks. We're glad you think so.
Great video thanks mate gotta do the UBJ boots on my 2000 Prado soon!
Thanks Stuart. Good luck with the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman Just got it done today, so many great tips in your videos thanks Timmy. My UBJs seemed fine and didn't have much dirt etc in them so just cleaned up, re-greased and rebooted. Thanks again!
@@pradolover You're welcome Stuart. Good to hear our video helped you out.
Thanks for the videos! This is how I'm spending my weekend in Nor Cal. Struts, upper, lower, ball joints, both cv axles, brakes, oil change. Everything Toyota and I have one side to go!!!!
You're welcome. Hope the rest of the job went smooth for you.
soooo jealous at the amount of rust on that rig!
Or, the lack of rust. It's one of the good things about living in California.
Great video tutorial; especially your commentary and written recommendations re list of tools and other advice. I note in your videos the packages of parts procured for the job, with part numbers written on them. Where can I find the part numbers for repair/replacement projects on my 1999 Toyota 4Runner? Thanks for sharing.
We're glad you like the video. In all the videos we make, for the most part, we list the part numbers, tools used and torque specs in the video description. If we don't list the part numbers in the video description, you'll be able to find them while watching the video.
If you're asking if there's some sort of master parts list in existence for 3rd Gen 4runners, I don't think it exists unless somebody has made one that I don't know of. What most people do is they look up part numbers on online Toyota parts seller websites like Camelback Toyota. They have parts schematics you can look through for your particular year, make and model vehicle and you find the part numbers that way. Sometimes certain parts are hard to find and that's when I visit my local Toyota dealer and have them look it up for me. The dealer parts department has a much more comprehensive list of parts schematics and they pretty much every time can find you the parts you need. But, the problem with going to the dealer is you pay more than online but I'd rather get the part I need and pay more for it than search and search forever online.
hey Timmy, loving your videos. binge watching everything you've done on the 3rd gen 4runners.
question for you, if im buying control arms with the Ball Joints already pressed in by the factory, what do you recommend to do in order to get the UBJ into the knuckle?
I recommend you watch our balljoint replacement video and it will show you how to install the balljoint into the knuckle. th-cam.com/video/-sY2azyLBuI/w-d-xo.html
Thank you
You're very welcome.
Timmy! These videos are awesome. So informative. One friendly request: not to be *that guy*, but could you make sure you wear eye protection when you're doing stuff like this? The world needs you and your ability to see.
Hey David, glad you like what Sean and I are doing. Yeah, just the Christmas Story movie, "You'll shoot your eye out kid!" No patches on my eyes just yet but you do bring up a valid safety point. Happy Wrenching!
Wow great work man. I am doing this and it was a headache. The cam bolt sleeve got seized in the lower control arm, eventually had to sawzaw it off. Putting back the upper ball joints is proving to be challenging. Especially with the wrong b receiving cups. Thanks for the link though.
Thanks Jesse. It's pretty common to have a seized cam bolt. Good luck finishing up the upper balljoint replacement.
@@TimmyTheToolman question. If the upper ball joint comes pre greased and ready for install do I have to take apart the ball joint boot to fit thru the knuckle? Seems like a tight squeeze and I wouldn't wanna tear the new boot
jessejaviangel no, the joint stud will fit up into the upper control arm hole & the boot will be below it.. no need to take apart the boot from the upper ball joint. The boot is pretty robust, you would really have to try to rip it installing it back up into the control arm hole.
Well done very details videos, you have a new subscriber👌🏾💪🏾👍🏾🙏🏿👏🏾m and showing the mistakes that we can encounter during this kind of repair 🇯🇲🇨🇦.
Just a point safety first, doctor second 🤓.
It is sad when you bring up in your vehicle and later you notice the shotty reassembly job happens to us all, that is why I fix my own vehicle, a lot of mechanics do not take pride there finish work. That axel washer is an important part of the axel but.
Another thing when you are ready to do the job these stores have limit supplies of this tool, most time they are rented and you're stuck, I always buy them requires tools.
We're glad you like the video and welcome to the Timmy the Toolman club. Like you noticed, we like including things that didn't work just as much as we like to share that did work. Rented tools can save you money but they often leave something to be desired because people beat them up. Just like you, I like owning my own tools and consider it an investment. Some tools are very specific that you'll only use once or twice but I'd still rather buy them if they're not too expensive to own. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it!
Brings back bad memories...
Update: I’m glad I went Oem on that nightmare of a job. I used the same otc adapters but did not take off the knuckle. It barely worked. I forgot to remove the retaining clip for the ubj and pressing it out took an insane amount of force.
Oh na na take heart Christmas sweater time is just around the corner.
Yep, I can understand that. But, with all the right tools, this is a pretty straight forward job. The scary thing for me was how much force was required to break free the upper balljoint spindle for the upper control arm. Frank's rig has over 300k miles and those were the original UBJs so they were really locked in there. It's scary when that puller finally breaks it free.
@@TimmyTheToolman Tim. I hammer it out. For me it was a couple strong wack. That was it! my 4runner had 195K miles
@@genxiong2695 That's pretty lucky it came out with a couple hammer strikes. They are usually in there really tight.
Taking off the whole knuckle assembly isn't necessary in order to complete this job. I was going to skip this job while doing inner/outer tie rods and LBJ, due to all of the work, but I saw another video where you can just unscrew the upper ball joint and press it out. I appreciate the attention to detail in all of your videos, but I found that all of the extra work you did in this video wasn't necessary. I am currently finishing up the rack bushings and also the inner/outer tie rod, then going to finish with the UBJ. Thanks for all of your detailed 3rd gen maintenance videos!
Stabilizing the knuckle to apply the necessary force with the balljoint press while the knuckle is on the rig is the issue. That's why I chose to remove the knuckle to not fight getting the old balljoint out and the new one. I don't find removing a steering knuckle a big chore. We can choose which battles we want. So, not necessary for you, but necessary for me because I wanted the knuckle stabilized on the bench vice. There's always more than one way to accomplish a job.
Not a chance on my 23 year old original BJ... no way were they coming out in place.. had to remove the knuckle
Another great video! Keep it up! Also, What are the model numbers of the Dewalt impact drills you use? (Ready to upgrade)
Thanks. Glad you like the video.
Here'a a link to the larger gun: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WJA1J68/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's a link to the smaller gun: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NVSQEQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These are bare tools, no batteries. Here's some batteries I bought: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KQU1ENG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You'll need a charger too: www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCB118-FLEXVOLT-Fast-Charger/dp/B01HD4E0LK/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01HD4E0LK&pd_rd_r=424e3614-e703-11e8-8650-391015bbf8ed&pd_rd_w=bG3Dt&pd_rd_wg=2z5Qb&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=6725dbd6-9917-451d-beba-16af7874e407&pf_rd_r=3WCN4JXJ31DYY6VG99YJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=3WCN4JXJ31DYY6VG99YJ
Thanks so much for making your videos, they have helped me a lot!
The biggest issue I have had so far is the "c" clip/snap ring, what kind of snap ring pliers are you using? Mine won't do the job getting it wide enough to slip past the Proforged sealed boot.
Edit: I overlooked the post below of the same question, thanks for the info.
Pstand38 thanks for the comment. Hope you did alright with this job
Thanks for the video.. i'm going to do this to my 2008 Tundra tomorrow but I'll be using MOOG brand parts. I hope they don't have the step you showed of 2 types of grease. I think Moog has serviceable grease fittings so Im hoping i can just grease them after installation! Anyway, thanks again
You're welcome and good luck with the job. The Moogs probably only take one type of grease.
Let me borrow that press Tim I’m in Santa Cruz lol. 2000 tundra needs some love.
I don't usually do side jobs, but I might be willing to help you out for a donation to our channel. Send me an email and we'll discuss it. tim@timmythetoolman.com
I don't have a vice. I found it relatively easy to get the UBJ pressed in with the knuckle on the truck. 05' sequoia.
Good job!
what tool did you use to press that on vehicle?
@efil4kizum A rented Autozone ball joint installer tool. Looks like a C- clamp that comes with some cups to received BJ and assist in pressing the BJ up and evenly as the video here shows. The cups weren't exact fits for my UBJ but I made it work. It did take a big of muscle to torque the clamp but not too difficult.
Hey Tim, thanks for the videos, they have helped me rebuild my 99 limited almost entirely. I will be installing jba upper control arms soon once my new lift springs arrive, and I was wondering if you think it is possible for me to press the ubj out, and in with my harbor freight 20 ton press (I bought the press thanks to your rear control arm poly bushing video, man it's a life saver)
I would need to secure the knuckle before it is pressed, but I am hoping that this is possible.
Hey Tyler, I don't know if it's possible because I've never tried it. I have a feeling it would be very difficult to properly balance and support the knuckle on the press.
@@TimmyTheToolman I took your advice, and went ahead and bought the C clamp style press. Pushed the ball joint out like butter! I'm picking up 2 more press plates this weekend so I can start the press work. One last question, what is a good indication that the abs ring might need to be replaced? The tacoma knuckles that I will be using already has ABS which is a plus! So I'm converting the tacoma ADD knuckle to a manual knuckle.
Awesome video Timmy! I am about to try this on my 2000 tacoma 4wd. However, my upper ball joint still seems good, per your suggested test. If I can find and replace just the boot, do you know what grease I would need to apply? I was going to check with the dealer but expect they only supply the boot - if even that! Thanks for such a detailed video.
We provide a link in the video description to the Toyota OEM reboot kit which includes the boot, the grease and a new wire. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for the video. My 98 taco would be falling apart around me without all of your videos.
I'm actually installing new OEM upper ball joints (directly from my local Toyota parts dep (#43310-39016)) in my taco right now, but they don't fit in the top of the knuckle. Toyota and the internet says I have the correct UBJs, but the new ones are both .005" larger than both of my old ones. I only found the difference after attempting to press one in. It was going in straight, but taking more pressure than anticipated, so I stopped and pushed it back out. The metal on the UBJ was noticeably sheared / deformed by the knuckle around the entire perimeter. Both of my knuckles were the same size too, but with the larger UBJ's, there was a .010" interference between the parts. In my experience, that's way too much. I've gone on to buy 2 more UBJ's from Toyota, and from 2 aftermarket manufacturers, and they're all the same size. I'm going to try heating/cooling the parts before pressing, but just find it very strange that none of the new parts match the original parts.
That's bizarre that the UBJs have a larger diameter than before. I do remember it taking a decent amount of force to drive it in with the balljoint press.
Nice snap ring pliers
They do work pretty good. Here's a link if you'd like to get the same one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00209ETSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ahh Pizza Chicago. I miss In n Out burger too. Just did the upper ball joints on my 2000 Tacoma, definitely took the knuckle off. A small tip: you can bolt the knuckle to the wheel and tire assembly using the lug nuts (take the rotor off first) and then you don't need to hold it in a vice to press in/out the new ball joint. I used a big c-clamp and it worked out but it does need some serious torque to get the new one in. I used a large 9" Cresent wrench to turn the nut on the c-clamp. Cleaned up the bore first too with a bit of medium grid sandpaper and the new joint went in a lot easier. Make sure its bottomed completely or the c-clip will not go on.
Good tips. Thanks for stopping by the comments. We appreciate it greatly
Thanks for making the videos and sharing. I'm looking into changing the lower and uppers and a few other thing. Now I have an idea on what to look out for and expect if I hire out. Open to taking on the job ? :0D. I'm in San Jose as well. Not for a 4Runner but for a 2000 tundra
I don't think I would be interested, at least not in the near future. I have a lot of irons in the fire for this summer.
No worries... thanks for the reply but more importantly, hope the summer will be a highly productive one. Looking forward to any and all future videos.
Excellent instructions! Question, if I plan to replace upper & lower ball joints at the same time, should I remove the lower before removing the knuckle?
You could remove the knuckle with the lower balljoint still attached if you want by disconnecting the lower balljoint at the lower control arm and outer tie rod. Once you have the knuckle clamped in a bench vise, you could zip off the lower balljoint bolts and remove it from the knuckle.
Thanks for mentioning torque espcs. ‘Cuase not everyone does it
You're welcome. We try to give people everything they need to be successful doing their own automotive work.
Hey Timmy.
I find that removing the Rotor from knuckle after a bit of rust weld is best screwing in a bolt into on of the threaded holes of the Rotor to "push" it off from the hub. I have heard that either 8 × 1.25 mm thread bolt or something close can fit in these threaded holes and makes for removing old rotors much safer and easier.
I have heard snacking a hammer on old rotors can cause warping damage. This is only my opinion. Thanks for all the work and info you share. My 2001 sRunner loves it and you. Cheers m8
Yeah, I've heard the bolt trick works well. The bolt size you stated is correct, M8 x 1.25. I've just never had to use it personally. Hitting the rotor with the plastic mallet has worked pretty much every time for me. But, no freaking way are you going to warp a rotor hitting it with a plastic mallet. Now, if you're hitting if with a decent size sledge hammer, then you might be able to warp it.
I agree, I imagine the stories come from a combo of warm rotors and/or too hard of an impact , or too strong of a hammer. Thanks for the insight.
@@444RUSH Yeah, the warping story doesn't add up. If you hit the rotor with a metal hammer, you'd damage the breaking surface, which obviously wouldn't be good. I'm sure people who live in the rust belts of the country must have to battle pretty hard to get rotors off. Maybe they are placing a towel on the rotor surface and then smacking it with a metal hammer to break it free from the hub or axle face.
Good info video!! Anyway where to download the service manuel book?
Don't know where to download from but you could most likely find the physical books for sale on Ebay.
hello thanks very good i learn a lot. can you tell me where to buy those pullers
Check out the video description.
amzn.to/2LuisQc
- Sean
Hi Tim, Thanks so much for the great video! As always, your videos are very detailed and specific to high standards. I have replaced my lower ball joint as preventive maintenance on my 3rd Gen 99 4runner 210K miles. The upper ball joints look great and the rubber bushings are not torn, however I notice the passenger side has a small tiny hole in it but no major grease leak. . I was going to just stick a needle and just shoot some grease in there and seal the hole. . Can I just use a multipurpose Lithium NLGI 2 grease?
You're welcome and we're glad you hear you think so highly of our videos. The grease Toyota uses for those upper balljoints has a different consistency and color compared to a multipurpose Lithium grease. With that said, I think the multipurpose grease will work fine. The whole idea is you want the joint lubricated and you also want to keep contaminants out. The question I have is how are you going to seal the boot? With some silicone?
I don't know if you caught it in the video description but Toyota does make a reboot kit for the upper balljoints. All you would have to do is break free the balljoint connection with the upper control arm with a puller, cut the wire, remove the boot and put a new boot on with the provided replacement grease and a new wire. Here's a link to the boot kit: parts.camelbacktoyota.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=%2343324-39015&make=Toyota&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214329 Since this is a fairly inexpensive part, buying online might not save you anything due to the shipping cost. But, with a online seller like Camelback Toyota, if you can get your order up to $150 by buying things you know you'll eventually use like oil filters, air filters and maybe some other things you were planning on replacing as preventative maintenance, the shipping becomes free. Then, they will only charge you a small handling fee, $3. I generally buy all my parts from Camelback unless it's something I need quick and then I just visit my local dealer. So, since the shipping could be equivalent to the cost of the part, you just might be better off visiting your local dealer for the reboot kit.
Thanks so much for the info......Yes I had some Permatex Ultra black gasket sealant and was going to just seal the hole for now. I will keep the great info you provided and periodically inspect the rubber dust seal to make sure it's not leaking and then either use Camelback toyota or the local dealer here in Dallas to buy those parts and eventually replace them, Thanks again!
@@amh1499 Yeah very welcome.
Excellent detailed video Timmy. Question for you. I am looking to buy a quality made bench vise under $250. I am considering three bench vises. A Tekton rotating bench vise with 8” jaws, or a Fireball rotating bench vise with 5” jaws or a Capri Rotating Base and Rotating Head Bench Vise, with 6” jaws. These are all strong bench vises and which do you recommend for vehicle repair and general home use. I will be using the bench vise to replace the upper ball joints on my 2002 Tacoma 4x4 and using your video as my guide.
I'm not familiar with any of the bench vices that you mentioned. I would go with a 6 inch vice that gets good reviews. I usually let the reviews drive my decisions to purchase tools and it usually works out well. If a tool gets mostly positive reviews, I'll go for it.
Hey Timmy, awesome videos brother! Where around the Bay area do you like to take the 4Runner?
There's one place I've been to but not in my 4runner actually. In the 80's I use to go to Hollister Hills. I want to take my 85 4runner there one day soon to screw around on the hills and obstacles they have. I haven't done a ton of 4wheeling in my 3rd Gens but I have been on the Mohave Road trail, throughout Death Valley and in the Gold Country near Downieville where I'm a member of a cabin share. You should come to our next party. It's going to be in June sometime.
@@TimmyTheToolman That would be awesome, thanks for the invite. I sent you a direct message on Facebook as well
Timmy, awesome and very detailed video. What do you think about Energy Suspension's special blend polyurethane bushings that supposedly never have to be changed? I have no experience with them, but thought you may know if they are worth the money to put on various parts when replacing them? I'm fairly new to the 4runner club and have an 01 runner that I bought (stole) from my sis recently, it's in unbelievable condition. Living in Fl helps as there is no rust at all on it. It's a 2Wd SR5 city/hwy dweller, but I love it. Going to add a 3rd gen 4WD to the mix soon. Thanks again, for the great uploads!
My only experience with Energy suspension bushings is for the steering rack and sway bar. I've used Whiteline for front lower control arms and both upper and lower rear control arms. The Energy Suspension are good for the steering rack and sway bars but I'd stick with Whiteline for the control arms.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks!
tim i did the same job without taking the spindle apart i also found the receiving cup and the part to push it out on ebay that somebody had already used and sold it.
Good job Larry.
You did it right.. I tried to get this done with the spindle in place and it was impossible.. checked the upper ball joint and it was still within spec so I will tackle this job when I'm doing front bearings
We're glad you think so. Thanks. Yeah, like I said in the video, it can be done with the knuckle still on the rig but it makes it much harder. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
I did it with the knuckle in place, using a small stool and scrap of romex wire to hold it in place. Was able to use the rental tools from Autozone and wasn't too bad. If I did it again, I would only go this way if I have a helper. If not I'd do it the TTT way.
Hey Timmy,
I've really enjoyed your Toyota videos. One thing I haven't seen you attempt is the front wheel bearings on something like a 2001 Toyota Tacoma 4 x 4 using a OTC Hub Grappler considering you use their tools. I've heard this is a difficult job. Any chance of seeing you perform this job in the near future?
Vlad Rector Hey Vlad, we have replaced wheel bearings on a 3rd Gen 4Runner which would be the same for a 1st Gen Tacoma. The bearing replacements were part of our Manual Hub Swap videos. You must have ABS so you’d want to watch Part 1 to see how to remove and replace the knuckles and Part 2 will show the presswork related to ABS Knuckles with A.D.D. Hubs. Part 1: th-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/w-d-xo.html. Part 2: th-cam.com/video/1TpOYj0sUpA/w-d-xo.html
Timmy and Sean, Did you guys still like the OTC front end service kit after you used it? They are more than double the price now. Awesome vid you guys ROCK. Viewers pls send Timmy and Sean a Super Thanks $1 to keep these vids coming.Russ in Minnesota
Hey Russell, yes, I really like that OTC front end service kit. I've used pullers from that kit for many jobs. That sucks it's doubled in price. You can buy similar pullers separately at affordable places like Harbor Freight and from Amazon and Ebay sellers.
Great video, thanks for posting OTC adapter list, except NOW the prices on everything have more than doubled if you can even find them in stock anywhere. The only way to get them from OTC seems to be buying entire kits, just not practical unless you can tell everyone which kit includes the required adapters/cups/etc.
Check out our SPC Upper Control Arm install video. Sean and Chris show a different way to go about removing the UBJ from the knuckle.
this would have been great 2 days ago when I did mine... I just winged it... it got done but I had no idea what I was doing
I did the job without taking either calipers or cv shafts off, auto zone loaner tools a grinder/cut off wheel
Well, you got it done and that's what counts. There's always more than one way to get a job done.
I was just looking around the garage and thinking "man, this guy has some nice tools." At that exact moment, he swings a set of 10" knipex dikes in front of the camera, and I knew, this is a man of exquisite taste.
Not all my tools are of Knipex quality, but I do own a lot of tools. I'm definitely not buying my tools off a Snap On or Matco Truck. I would have had to take a 2nd mortgage out on my house. Thanks for the comment!
Who makes the c-clip pliers? I need a set of those! Also another Great video! Timmy you have helped me thru bunch of maintenance with my son’s 3rd Gen, Thank you for making these videos your my go to. Thank You
Hey David, here's a link to pliers I used in the video: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00209ETSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 They work really well. We're happy to hear you are getting a lot of good use out of our videos. This makes us smile every time. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for posting the plier info, I previously overlooked this post.
@@Pstand38 You're welcome!
@@TimmyTheToolman I know this is old but those are definately not the pliers in the video. The video is much nicer. What are they? My lisle pliers bend too easily
@@meepster12345 nevermind. The amazon link looks to have the wrong picture. If you check the model number on the manufacturer website it shows what you have
Timmy...!!
Question! So I didn't have a torque wrench at the moment. I only tightened it with a breaker bar and came to buy one with everything on already. I have a huge amount of thread left over where the cutter pin is way up and not securing the castle nut. Should I remove the upper ball joint and reinstall it without any weight sitting on it or am I fine?
Something isn't right. Did you install an OEM balljoint? It sounds like either the taper of the balljoint shaft is wrong or the hole on your upper control arm has gotten widened out. If the old OEM balljoint shaft you removed wasn't sitting like that in the upper control arm, this tells you that there is something wrong with balljoint you got unless you just grossly overtightened it with the breaker bar and you're strong like Lou Ferrigno.
Appreciate your video, thank you. I have to replace my lower ball joints. There isn't any play in my UBJs and given what they take to replace, I'd like to keep them at the moment. If installing a new boot kit, do you know if the grease is available separately please?
I didn't know there was a boot kit for the lowers as well. I don't know if grease is available separately. But, I bet any quality chassis grease would work.
@@TimmyTheToolman I apologize for not wording it clearly. I'm replacing my lower ball joints, but looking to only re-boot my upper ball joints since the ubj's don't have any play. I have SuperLube 41150 synthetic white lithium grease in my grease gun now, think that would suffice?
@@andresadoff6762 The Toyota UBJ re-boot kit we link in the video description comes with grease. What reboot kit are you using?
@@TimmyTheToolman The toyota 43324-39015 pn boot kit? Didn't realize it came with grease, I'll just buy that one thank you
Might be a dumb question but oh well. I'm going to be replacing my stock UCA with JBAs. My question is: Is it possible to drive the UBJ upwards versus downward like how you did. My plan is to loosen the castle nut on top but leave it on. Then, hit it with a hammer. I am not planning on taking the whole knuckle off.
You have to drive the UBJ downward out of the knuckle. It goes in from the bottom up and goes out from the top down.
Hey Tim! I'm doing the whole front end (SPC UCAs, bilstein with OME coils, replacing oem LBJ, durobumps and new rotors/pads). Doing the job by myself, so I figured taking the spindle off would make inserting the new UBJ easier. What order would you recommend I do things to make it more streamline? Thanks in advance for your advice and for the awesome vids! If i get hung up, I hope you do house calls to the east bay. lol
Well, here we go. Get the steering knuckle off by doing everything we show in the video. If you don't have an impact gun, break loose the 4 LBJ bolts before disconnecting the LBJ from the lower control arm. Do the UBJ replacement and also swap the LBJ. Before getting the steering knuckle back in, remove the coil and shock and then remove the UCA. Install your front Durobumps. Put in the new UCA. Put in the new coil and shock. Get your knuckle back on. Finally get your new rotors and pads on. You're done!
Timmy The Toolman thanks Tim! I’ll give it a go !
@@shaolin29 Good luck Brother! If you run into problems, let me know.
Hi Timmy, really appreciate your videos, I recently used several of them when I fully rebuilt my 04 Gen 1 Taco. Pulled the cab and bed off the frame, derusted and painted it, plus did a lift, etc. Your videos were invaluable. I have a question. I've put about 1500 miles on the truck since I did the UCAs and UBJs. I installed the Mevotech UBJs and Moog UCAs. I noticed awhile ago that the boots on the UBJs were folded inward on one side of each. Today I finally had a chance to look at the boots closer. It is possible the boots have been like that since I had the alignment done. Do you think that this could cause a problem? Should I find I way to get the boot folded outward? I can't find a way to post photos here, do you have a contact I can send them?
I'm happy to know our videos have helped you with your 1st Gen Tacoma. Send me the pics: tim@timmythetoolman.com, and I'll let you know what I think.
Tim, Have you thought of moving to Texas?😊 Thinking about doing this on my 2002 Toyota Tundra with 160k miles. Since I have all taken apart, would you consider replacing the CV axle?
I don't think Texas would be my bag. I like mountains. I'd only replace the CV axle if it was bad.
When you were putting on the 2nd grease package to the top of the upper ball joint, what keeps it in without it comming out from top? Only one cable?
Nothing really keeps it in. The main grease is within the boot. I think that grease is just to lubricate the top of the boot a little to keep it from binding on the balljoint shaft. At least that's all I can come up with as a reason why they have us lubricate the top of the boot. Yes, there's only one cable per boot.
Would it have been easier to use the 20 ton press to remove and install the UBJ? I was going to order the additional OTC adapters and then I realized that with the knuckle off I might be able to do it on my press and not have the space limitations that comes with using the C shaped press in the BJ kit. It seems the space limitations are the source of most of the complications. With the knuckle off it seems like the 20 ton press may alleviate the space limitations and may be easier. What do you think?
You might be able to do it on the press but the shape of the knuckle might cause issues of you getting it in the necessary position on the press cross member. If you're successful doing it, let me know.
Thank you for the great video. Got a question : I just need to replace the boot of my upper ball joint because it is torn and the ball joint was replaced recently. Do I need to remove the whole nuckle or I can just disconnect the ball joint from the upper control arm, replace the boot, and call it done?
You could just remove the balljoint from the upper control arm and replace the boot. We provide a link to the reboot kit in the video description.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you. The link to ebay is no longer valid. Just FYI. But I find other sellers for the same boot.
@@ruigooal Yeah, I saw that. I updated the link to Toyota Parts Deal which is an online Toyota parts seller with pretty competitive prices.
Timmy, do you know if the Balljoint kit that you mentioned in the description (OTC-7249 on Amazon) comes with the necessary pieces for the upper ball joints on a ‘97 T100 4x4 & an ‘07 Sequoia 4x4? Your videos are top notch and have given me the confidence to tackle many jobs on my vehicles. Thanks!
Hey Casey, No, that kit doesn't have all the specialty cups and adapters for the UBJ replacement. When I did the UBJ job on a 3rd Gen 4runner, I bought the necessary cups and adapters separately from a tool supplier. You can rent some kits for free from auto parts stores to have more cups to choose from and you can also get creative by using things like a deep impact socket to slip over the stud of the UBJ to drive it out of the steering knuckle. To give you an idea what is involved, here's a link to the UBJ Replacement video. I chose to remove the whole knuckle so I could capture it in a vice and not fight to get the necessary leverage to drive the UBJ out and get the new one in. th-cam.com/video/-sY2azyLBuI/w-d-xo.html
Timmy The Toolman copy that....thanks. I found this additional set on Amazon.....it looks the companion set to OTC-7249. Take a look and let me know what you think....does it look like this would include all the necessary cups and adapters? Thanks again, buddy! Astro Pneumatic Tool 7868 Master Ball Joint Adapter Set www.amazon.com/dp/B00061SGPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N4xkFb6YTGMT9
Great didactic approach to your videos. New subscriber here. I have a 5th gen 4R 2018 with KDSS and started noticing odd vibrations on the steering wheel and a clunk whenever the nose dives and once it comes back up. Do you think that in less than two years a ball joint would fail? I use it in the city and light off roading. Thanks in advance for your help
Hey Andres, good to hear you like our videos. I would do a thorough inspection of your front end steering and suspension components and see what you find. With such low miles, you wouldn't think you have any balljoint, tie rod, control arm, shock, spring or sway bar problems but who knows. The clunk is indicative of something loose so take a good look and hopefully you can figure it out.
Timmy The Toolman will do! Thank you!
Timmy The Toolman update: it was the whole steering shaft assembly. Replaced under warranty. The frustrating thing is that they told me it was the front brakes and that I needed an alignment. Didn’t make any improvements on the clunking and vibration, of course, and went back same day until they checked the steering. Two weeks to wait for parts and they were pretty embarrassed when caught basically lying that it was the brakes.