Dear mister Bike Mechanic, please grow your super awesome mustache back. It was excessively complimentary to your demeanor and is dearly missed. Thank you.
Still riding my CAAD8 from 2016, I have been doing my own repairs and maintenance over the years and it still runs great. Plan to ride it for years to come. Great video!
To be honest, the frameset alone could fetch 400 quid. The fact you then got a groupset, winter wheels and bits and bobs is amazing. This is a race read bike, for a beginner, or an excellent winter/autumn training/second bike. Quality content as always.
This frameset would never sell for £400 in the UK as bikes/frames don't hold value here. That price would likely get a Supersix Evo frame, and one without all the imperfections in the lacquer. The reason second hand bikes are cheap in the UK is because - most second hand bikes require some level of refurbishment and many UK riders lack the basic home mechanic skills - UK 'cycle to work' scheme gives a 30% discount on new bikes and allows you to pay over 12 months. It's a long running initiative to reduce obesity levels (it hasn't worked😂) - vanity, UK cyclists like to show off a ride the latest bikes with the latest techs, the cycling scene has become very corporate
@@thevirtualeconomy hi , just have to say that your wrong in your comment, irrelevant if your bike is old or new once one realised that ,'' I kinda like this freedom '', the rider will make improvements'', as he or she peddles along even more so if they join a bike club and breath it all in , , I could never afford my winter bike ,but my new old bike that it is was a steal at £400 Ridley Dura ace , Pro vibe cockpit , FastForward carbon tubular w/set ??? Happy New Year to me !!
I have a 2009 Super Six Hi Mod. She’s definitely a modern classic. I built it up with SRAM Red mechanical, rim brake Zipp 303 firecrest wheels, ENVE aero carbon stem with Zipp 40cm aero handlebars. The bike and the components only have about 2000 miles total. I only ride it occasionally or group rides. She gets a lot of eyes looking when I take her out. And, she can still put the power down. Not as aero as modern bikes, but can still stay with the best of them. So yes, build up your CAAD with some bling. It’ll look great while also being different from the bunch.
My first road bike was Caad 8 - lively, easy to ride bike, loved it to bits. Wished I could find it back and put on a new group set, new carbon wheels, happily ride those again for a fraction of what these new bikes cost. Something magical about a horizontal top tube without dropped stays, classic looking and never gets old.
I have one of those and was tempted to sell it off over the years. Decided not to, and the frame is still running great! Even with a newer CAAD12 I still go back and ride the CAAD8. There's just something nostalgic and pleasant about the classic lines of that frame.
Quick fix for the lack of brakes... Give the braking surface of the wheels a good rub down with a fairly coarse emery cloth. If the brake pads look OK for wear then do the same to them. If not, replace the pads with one of the suggestions in the comments. I think you'll find the braking will be transformed. This simple fix would be a lot cheaper than buying new wheels. Ultegra and 105 rim brake calipers are excellent (particularly the direct-mount versions). Alloy rims tend to get polished on the brake track after a while and the pads can become a bit glazed. Disc brakes on a road bike are great but rim brakes really aren't rubbish...
I have a Caad9. Great bike. It’s my main road bike lol. Weighs 17 pounds with pedals and bottles racks and a couple other accessories. I put carbon handlebars and Seatpost by Easton. Added Williams 30mm deep wheels. To get it lighter and more comfy. I have a Caad10 ready to swap everthing over to. Found it for 150 usd. It’s in awesome shape
Another excellent video, Dave. And in particular, some great comments by your mechanic about sustainability, a subject that the mainstream bike industry, with its determination to keep us buying bikes (instead of maintaining our existing bikes) likes to keep quiet about. I much prefer your videos than those on GCN.
Sustainability is not often talked about when it comes to bikes. Aluminium, like steel, is 100% recyclable. Carbon is not and every bike will eventually end up in the landfill. Plus, the manufacturing of the bikes itself is wasteful. Already during production, 30% of the carbon material ends up in the bin.
I've got a lot of time for this. I've just upgraded from a 2015 Cube Peloton, 105 with Ultegra mechs, rim brakes, exactly the same colour and wheels. Loved the bike but could only take 25c tyres and I too live in the Cotswolds and my back could only take so much of the back roads we have around here! Not sold the Cube yet and still love it - simple yet effective 🙂
Hi David. A true classic bike indeed. Certainly, new wheels with 28c should up the comfort stakes. I really enjoy your videos, David. I find you (and the videos) just fantastic as if you are having a conversation that is personable, and totally informative, and engaging in equal measure. Thank you. Finian from Ireland!
Amazing bike. Congrats on bringing a classic back to life. For rim brake blocks, i recommend the Swiss Stop Yellow King's but your terrain may be better suited to the black princes. I built up my 2017 Trek Emonda rim brake with mechanical dura ace and zipp 303's. It weights just 6.88kg, stops amazingly with the swiss stops, zooms up hills and fast on the flats. I have no plans to go disc and am planning a CAAD10 project build.
I've got a '12 which started out similar spec and as a 'spare' travel bike. After my Supersix frame broke, it inherited the full carbon cockpit, DA Di2 and exalith braked hoops. I'm fortunate to have other fancier bikes in the shed, but this one just makes me smile. Classic looks, rim brakes - a keeper.
I had an Emonda ALR about the same vintage and all I did was find some nice carbon wheels for it. Really changed the ride and feel of the bike for the better. I wouldn’t waste money on bars or paint it looks incredible as it sits.
You should definitely waste money on a handlebar... If it's not the right size for you! Other than that if the bike rides harsh a carbon handlebar could insulate vibrations further (depends on the exact model of the bar). Same for your butt and the seatpost, but these are not necessary, only for making the ride smoother if needed.
Interesting that this project bike popped up since I just finished resurrecting a 2014 CAAD 10. It is 105 and not Ultegra. It also has a combination of internal and external cable routing. I set it up with the same gearing as my Domane and did basically the same refresh that your mechanic did on the bike. It took me a few rides to get used to the geometry and gearing but now, I find it pretty enjoyable to ride. It’s probably the fact that I do not have a set of ENVE carbon wheels on the Cannondale but, I am a little slower on the CAAD 10 when compared to my Domane. Overall, I am happy I spent the time and money getting this bicycle right for me and am happy to hear your comment that the CAAD 10 is a desirable bike. I went with my gut on doing this project and it appears that I made the right decision. Cheers!
I am NOT mechanically inclined at all. But after watching countless TH-cam videos, I have learned how to do all of that. It’s really not hard. If one hires a mechanic to do all that, the cost starts to eclipse the savings of the used bike. But if one can do the work for oneself, as you Brits say, “happy days.”
I was riding this exact bike up until a month ago when I was doored and got a CAAD13 to replace it. Granted, I upgraded the drivetrain to Dura-Ace and the wheels to Ksyrium Pro UST, I may have ridden it for another 3 years. It was so fast and light that I couldn’t justify the price of carbon, the weight of disc, and the marginal gains of Di2. This thing was still incredibly fast stock!
Like the comments about doing your own work, but this is really also dependent on companies using standardized parts (which unfortunately today is not a given). Stuff like odd shaped seat posts, one piece stem / handlebars with internal cable routing, and press fit bottom brackets are very much not friendly to people trying to be home mechanics. I personally like doing all of my own work (just built up a brand new bike completely from parts) so I refuse to buy anything that isn't standard and can't be done at home.
Great video, a new set of decent wheels and brake pads will do it, a great bike for anyone at any level and won't be held back on a group ride. Don't forget to toe in the brake pads with a business card to prevent that stopping noise we all hate. ✌🏽 From Brooklyn NY.
I really like the videos on the Cannondale! Looks like a great bargain and I’m interested to see how it stacks up against a modern day aero and carbon bike. I find a tubeless setup to be a game changer for bikes like this, because of the lower pressures you can run. Even with the 25’s! Maybe this is something to consider when you select an upgrade wheelset?
I agree totally with your mechanic, go out and get an old bike, take it to pieces and restore it, you learn so much and when you are out on a ride and something is not right you know how to fix it. Plus it gives you a sense of pride in YOUR bike.
I have a 2013 Caad 10 with SRAM Red I purchased it when I was still racing because of the cheap crash replacement and it is still my everyday ride. The best upgrade I did was a set of carbon wheels. Smooths out the ride quite a bit. Cheers!
I've been using caad12 since 2019. I've done 50000km with it so far. Definitely a great road bike I especially enjoy on climbs. I have 1 pair of campagnolo zonda and 1 pair of vision team35sl wheelset. I think it's a great choice. I can't wait for your new videos about caad12. Greetings from Turkey. please add english subtitles.
The Caad12 will easily take 28mm tyres. I know cus I’ve had them on mine with plenty of room to spare. I reckon it will even take up to 30s. Put some carbon wheels on and it will transform the comfort and make it even faster. I still prefer mine over modern bikes.
I think the 12 was the best version, it looks amazing. Can we just appreciate the welds too, not like the tripe companies are churning out now. I swapped my wheels for some Cero AR30s and SwissStop Blues, transformed the ride for about £350 without changing the looks too much.
@David Arthur - Just Ride Bikes my favorite CAAD series of CANNONDALE’S iconic bikes is undoubtedly the CAAD 7 & the CAAD 12, with the CAAD 7 being my #1 choice. It was fast & served me well in my races. I’ve owned the CAAD 3, 4, CAAD 7, CAAD 9, Two CAAD 10’S, CAAD 12 & Now I’m currently riding The Cannondale Synapse 2021. I know & love my Cannondale bikes ! 🚴🏾💨🔥
Most of my riding is on a CAAD 12 w/rim brakes. I'm the only guy in my group still on an AL frame bike and it's just as fast and light. I also have a newer Giant Defy which I like as well but it is like riding a couch comparatively. It doesn't offer the pure quickness and fun I get from the CAAD. I upgraded to better wheels and GP 5000 28's which made lots of difference on longer rides. If it were my bike I'd keep the paint but I'd say do a respray so we can watch!
Have my own CAAD12.. New carbon wheels and 28mm tubeless tyres made a huge difference to the ride, so good, still my go to bike. been wanting to upgrade the Mech groupset to Di2 for a while but keep having trouble justifying the cost for a "bling" upgrade.. (it's the same gearing but only for that spilt second of "oh yes that is electronic shifting" but with no extra watts😕).. R/Bs are sweet- I learnt how to brake years ago! 👍
I just build up my first bike, a caad 12 with 105 r7000. The frame was paint stripped and polished and I added some retro decals which give it a really beautiful look, that might be an idea.
I have a CAAD 3 bike, and it's definitely firm. Great going up, not so good downhill on a bumpy road. I found a nearly new original Redshift Shockstop seatpost second hand, and it makes all the difference. It's easy to set up and you almost forget its there.
This is a terrific n+1 vintage bike (yes I know it's from 2016...). Jim's walk through was excellent. The only major things he did not mention were: servicing the brake pads and truing the wheels.
So a lighter, way easier to work on bike, for about a tenth the cost of its modern day equivalent! Bike brands should "remake" these bikes and keep them alongside their other aero, internal cabled, impossible to work on for the average DIYer ranges! Would be great to see you give it a few upgrades now like decent wheels and compare it maybe to the latest Cannondale equivalent back to back? Hopefully Cannondale won't disown you if you do! Not seen you so excited in a video, like ever! To be honest I could watch this type of content all day, maybe go and find more second hand bargains and keep full servicing them to see how good they become!
I support this. I can afford nice bikes but have zero interest on spending insane money for something I am using to just stay in shape. I buy used bikes for that reason. It is fun to learn to maintain them and it doesn't really matter if I am slower because I am less aero or because I sometimes just use street clothes. To me, the most important thing is that I am getting out of the house and enjoying the world and nature. My job is computer based and I spend way too many hours in a dark room. It is nice just to spend some time outdoors without spending tons of money and time on something that is finnicky but top of the line.
I fully endorse this comment. With decent wheels a pro could easily race this bike and be competitive. So for a weekend warrior it's more than good enough.
Get that zip tie off of those front cables; it'll wear through the coatings on the housings. When those bikes were new we didn't do that to them. IF you feel the need to tidy things up there, just use a small Velcro strap. As for the brakes, you didn't clean the rims with emory cloth and you didn't upgrade the pads with new, better ones. Rim brakes work great if you know what you're doing...and it's not complicated.
I just bought a high end 90s Italian framset and am in the process of building it up. The biggest difficulty is not going overboard as you'll easily exceed the maximum value of the bike, you have to treat it as a hobby more than a way to save money sonetimes.
Jim is not just your ordinary bike mechanic is he , what wheels will you use and why ? rim brakes that squeal means the pads are to hard loved the part 2 video thank you.
This as been a fantastic series, can’t wait to see the next instalment. I was lucky enough to pick up a mint condition CAAD 12 Black Inc edition 4 months ago, the plan is to make it my winter bike, summer is all about XC MTB, like many on this site I’m interested to see what David does with the wheels, for me that’s the only upgrade required, currently running Mavic Cosmic aluminium. This all the bike I need as a second bike and easy enough to do basic maintenance on
It just goes to show there are some bargain quality second hand rim braked bikes out there👍 Why spend 5, 8 or 10 times the cost to buy a new disc braked bike if you just want to enjoy cycling for exercise, commuting, sportives etc. Yes, you maybe one of the only ones on a club ride with rim brakes these day's but don't feel pressured in to spending a fortune, when you really don't need to😀 Great video and nice to see you featuring and having a passion for not just the latest mega money bikes, nice though they are...👍
If I were to buy a second-hand bike, my main headaches would be as follows: Are any of the frameset's hardware still possible to be sourced? How many components are still truly usable? Are there any proprietary parts I need to take note of? It comes down to the understanding of many brands and models out there as no two bikes are exactly the same. In the end, regardless of the condition, I'd still fully service the entire bike because: 1) I'm capable of doing so. 2) Who knows if the bike is actually serviced? 3) If it really was serviced, to what extent? Is the quality any good?
I love my CAAD12. It's a Team CNCPT special edition bought as just a frameset. I've fitted Campag Potenza (Campag do their own BB30a BB) 53/39 with a set of LUN 45 wheels. Looks amazing and is super quick along the lanes. I can recable it in half an hour too. Probably the best alloy bike ever made.
What a great find, David. And at such good price that I would've already ordered a set of 40-60mm deep carbon wheels; a -17deg stem; and perhaps a new seatpost, saddle, and narrow 36-38cm bars.
Quite likely the less than ideal braking performance has to do with the internal cable routing. I have two cannondales, one a CAAD 2 and the other a CAAD 12. OEM brakes were not very good. The CAAD 2 came with CODA calipers and the CAAD 12 with Tektro. I replaced them both with Shimano R7000 calipers and put new cables on it. The brakes are better now, but the 2 brakes *much* better than the 12. The 2 has external cable routing, whereas the 12 has internal. Not only does the 2 brake better, braking also feels better (less squishy). Up until 10 the CAAD bikes uses external routing, the 12 was the first with internal routing. The 12 rides smoother than the 10 though. And it does fit 28 mm tyres without a problem.
5 mins33: Matching coloured ferrules with frame - a pro. Handlebar caps are yellow though. A great find David - the Cannondale bike was quite good too. Great mechanic mind - attention to details takes a good rebuild to a great rebuild .
Nice video! I have a CAAD 8 and a CAAD 10 and especially with the 10 I always wonder why would anyone need something different. Wheels are a real issue though. I really really would look forward to you putting a nicer set than the very mediocre Aksiums and then ride the bike in a sportif.
I ride a Caad12 - have had it since 2017. I have upgraded it with 50mm deep section Prime Black Edition carbon wheels, Cannondales carbon SAVE-seatpost, a BBInfinite BB (after lots of issues with the BB) and some Ultegra and Dura-Ace-bits, and bloody hell is it fast. It hit's about 7,3-7,5 kg with pedals. And I easily fitted 28 mm Continental GP 5000's on it. Do that asap! But the breaking is horrible. Especially with carbon wheels. So the Caad12 is for sun and fast, and otherwise I hit the tracks and the rain with my Canyon Grizl.
As someone with many old high end road bikes, this my advice for fixing the brakes. Take the wheels off and then the tires and get a sanding block with some 220 grit sand paper and take them to the rim braking surface and clean using a circular and even motion. Warning, don't do this this to carbon rims. Get some new brake pads. Problem solved.
I fitted a set of 38mm Prime Carbon wheels to my Caad 10 back in the day they were a great upgrade. Try some Swissstop Pro Black or Flash EVO BXP rim brake pads😉
With cars, there is a bit of a philosophy amongst some; "Never tune out of class". Referring to, dont spend money on something that in the end for the same money you could have gone up a class for instead. In my mind the wheel upgrade in this case, I guess would be something of a debate. Sure if you put some carbon wheels on it, it would be better than it is now. But surely for the total cost of the bike, you could have gone with a carbon frame with nice carbon (rim brake) wheels from the getgo. I think many people get something "cheap" and start upgrading what they have instead of rationalizing "what is my max limit to spend on a bike including upgrades" and then just buy the best one for that amount from the start. At least the main foundations of it, like maybe spending the bit extra from the start to get the carbon frame, even if the cassette may not last longer than the summer. Of course I like a cheap bike and a good cost/performance ratio as much as anyone. But that ratio starts going downhill if you start spending the money. This bike might be at its prime just the way it is, as it has not costed an arm and a leg to get here but it rides great.
My wife and I both are riders and have been for years, and have always built up our own bikes; bought many (most) used, swapping out and/or selling bits and parts. Have slacked off in the past years though because for me, the biggest challenge to it all, even maintaining our own rides (I'm down to just a single speed and my BMC with a frame or 2 in boxes; she's still got about a half-dozen bikes), is space. Just amazingly horrid having 6 tool boxes, working on a drop cloth on a porch (esp. in winter!), and just having no room and having to dig about for stuff. (Time to build my own house, eh?). Just ranting I guess, but aside from that, it really is easy to work on one's own bike, and it is amazingly satisfying to build up your own ride for the first time. And it's really satisfying to hear your wife query some guy about gear ratios and seeing his face go blank or seeing her school someone in fixing a flat (I suppose we've fixed as many flats for others as for ourselves...no, not true; we lived in Albuquerque, NM - flats were weekly - goat-heads) Sadly, bike prices today are laughably outrageous. Spotted a Cannondale frame, decent shape, and the asking price was about $1200 USD. Good luck with that. I figure, hitting 60 in another year, that my wife and I will start to line up weekend estate sales, garage sale trips, and buy up all the COVID bikes we can, and plan on our 'retirement' as parts/frame suppliers, esp. good old non-disc frames. But I'm rambling... Great vid. Really nice bike. I am jealous, for sure.
I have a 2016 Supersix evo that looks at a glance, just like your CAAD 12. I just swapped on a set of Hunt 36 aero carbon wheels from another bike, I think it was well worth it. I also have a Sram Red etap group set, a little expensive and fiddly for a budget bike, but its light weight and electric! In my opinion I would not cover up the original paint on your CAAD 12, just polish it up. I look forward to seeing your upgrades!
I'm really enjoying this project and it's nice to see an older bike getting some attention it deserves. My brother-in-law has an identical one to this and loves it. If you are swapping brake pads, try swiss stop black princes, I've used these on a few bikes over the years and they've been brilliant.
Carbon rim brakes will be dramatically worse than a stock alloy setup (especially in the wet). Stick with aluminum braking surfaces and put some Koolstop salmon pads on there, you'll have ample stopping power in all conditions. You could also look at upgrading the housing to a compressionless system like the jagwire elite link stuff
Loving the series and well chuffed the CAAD has almost the same mechanical spec as my upgraded steel, horizontal top tubed, drop stayed MBK. Always loved the CAAD series with cool out-back rear drop outs back in the day and very nearly got an early one as it was sat next to the MBK when I bought the first once in 1993. Looking forward to see where you take this bike.
I own a 2011 Cannondale CAAD 10 3 Ultegra in Magnesium White. Absolutely love the bike. Enjoy your CAAD 12 and I look forward to more Cannondale content.
Great video!! I've just picked up a rim brake Merida 400. Paid for new press fit BB to be fitted then replaced cassette, chain, jockey/pulley wheels, gear cable rear derailleur and bar tape all in 380 euro Bargain. Many happy miles in the Costa sun!!!
I run Borg 31 wheels set up with 25c tubeless on both my rim brake bikes - both are CF frames but both are older than your CAAD 12. This alone transformed the ride quality and comfort. Just stick with Shimano brake blocks. They work very well in a good set up so your Ultegra brakes and new wheels will be fine.
David, I really appreciate your thoughtful and measured analysis of the bikes that you test. However as a long time road and mountain bike (intermountain west American) rider I have to say that while your butt must be more calibrated than mine, this review illustrates the danger of riding the latest and greatest that the bike industry is soooo anxious to sell to us bike addicts. I agree with the eminently qualified rider and straight up bike mechanic Jim the Bike guy, that while advances in bike design and material construction are amazing, they are really not necessary to the everyday bike rider (addict) like me. I absolutely love my early 90"s (Cali made) steel frame purple Masi road bike. Frankly I don't see the reason to install disc brakes on a road bike or overly complicated "tubeless" tires because bike riding has always been about FUN! Just my two cents or whatever that translates in pence. Pease keep doing what you do, it really is appreciated by me and the greater road biking community!
Loved the video, and the bike. I re-built a Cannondale CAAD 3 R400 and upgraded to carbon bars, Enve wheels, Shimano Ultegra drivetrain, and a modern Stealth seat. Brought the weight down, made it more aero, and seemed (probably psychologically so) that it was quicker. I did not go to wider tires and agree with your assessment that road feel is still harsh (but racy). I suggest the upgrades and (since I gave that bike to my father in law) I am on the hunt for a used CAAD 12, 10, or 8 (thanks for reminding me they were all great bikes). Thanks again for another great video with a focus on the bike. Can't wait to see what you do with it and would love to see what you think of it on a club ride or criterium race.
The brakes should be fine, just change the pads and align them inwards like they should. Shouldn't be necessary to change the wheels to improve them. Maybe clean the rims better. The paint job could be very interesting, but you have to do a good job! Kkkk I bought a caad 8 (simple one made in Taiwan) recently and change tires, brake blocks, carbon seatpost and the settle. Also put this o/selle-italia-bar-pad-handlebar-tape
I’d assume that the old pads would of gone hard, so even new Shimano would be a improvement, this said my CX bike with terrifying canti’s was hugely improved with Kool Stop pads! I think road bikes have changed more than MTB over the last decade? I have 9 ish year old Trance noticed that it more closely matches the modern Anthem than Trance ie geometry has become more slack etc.
CAAD 10 owner. Shod with a nice pair of Campag Eurus and BXP blue brake pads that just stop without drama. A lovely ride, even on the rough stuff. There really isn't much in it between that and my TCR Pro1 for ride feel. Obviously the TCR is smoother but they both behave with aplomb.
I have 7 bikes at the moment. I race, I'm not outside shaking my fist at the clouds, but being a privateer, I want easy to maintain. I also am an enthusiast, I like bikes, riding them, finding gems, commuting, all of it. I'm a tough person to be happy with any one bike, I want it fast, comfy, easy to work on, basically a unicorn. When I go out for a long ride, I grab my steel ritchey road logic, with 28mm tires/latex tubes, mechanical, and I smile every single time. I put air in the tires and it's ready to go. Oddly, my power and speed is no different from Wizz bang bike to steel "old tech" bike. Beats me, I don't ask questions, I like it.
Road Bike rim brakes FTW, absolutely and yes get some 28mm wheels on there and give us an update ride survey! Thanks for this which is absolutely useful and all good! 🌻
This bike looks like a perfect candidate for 650B conversion. I would take some careful measurements to make sure it's doable but generally any frame that will take a 700Cx28 tire will also take a 650B x 38. I would shoot for the excellent 38mm Rene Herse Loup Loup Pass mounted to a quality alloy wheelset. You'll need longer calipers of course. Most people go straight for Tektro 559's because they're guaranteed long enough however your Cannondale is tight enough that a medium reach set might work. I have such a bike. It went from twitchy crit bike to all rounder super bike. Smooth tarmac, broken pavement and "kitty litter" trails are all on the menu. It handles the occasional gravel road well enough without having to endure the slacked out geo of a true gravel bike. Where I live there isn't enough gravel to warrent a true gravel bike anyway. I've set several personal FKT's on this bike. Cosmetically I wouldn't lay a finger on your Cannondale. It's gorgeous as is!
(Respray) I have a Caad 12 original condition rides like a dream purchased a Scott RC 40 Very nice bike but felt numb sometimes road feedback makes the RIDE feel more alive thanks for doing the caad 12 great video forgot to mention brakes you just have to compensate disk are awesome but rim brakes do the job
Stock shimano pads are fine, but if not, then kool stop or swissstop. I would add a carbon seat post, carbon bars, and some nice mid height wheels, some like 40mm or less
Hi Dave. My bike is a 2011 Synapse - so watching this series is super interesting and quite relevant. Ie what one can still tease out of an ageing bike. Would love to see the difference a respray and decent carbon wheels makes. Think that’s all it really needs. Cheers
I would choose that bike which has mechanically compatible parts over any latest bikes which has proprietary BS parts. They may look cool but they are hellish to workaround.
a bargain for 400 quid!! I'd recommend Swisstop Flash alloy brake pads. Far superior to the Shimano pads that come with the calipers. Probably not as good as discs are, but I'm still running rim brakes
I own both CAAD 12 and 10. Got more than 50.000 km on the 12. I bought 12 because I liked 10 and I felt slight geometry changes went into right direction. I love the bicycles but the bottom brackets are quite noisy on both. I am happy though that bearings and axles don't get destroyed at accelerated pace and that they run more or less smoothly all the time. Also, headset tend to be problematic. So if yours has perfect BB and headset I think you have a gem. I would say CAAD 12 is noticeably more comfortable than 10. It seems that its fork is great at dampening vibrations. I would say that it is better at that than any modern bike with disc brakes. However, CAAD 10 is the one that is slightly stiffer, also in the BB area. For aluminum rims I would choose Swisstop pads, for carbon fiber Campagnolo. If rear brake gives you vibrations, I would suggest cork pads or cheap pads from Aliexpress. Those will reduce braking force but it is still more than enough for rear wheel.
@@yonglingng5640 First of all, stock compression plug is inadequate even if you follow manufacturers instructions and cut steerer tube right under the upper end of the stem. I found out that there is no way I can assemble headset within torque specifications so it wont eventually come loose (usually after a handful of rides on bumpy roads). I just wonder how many inattentive owners damaged headset assembly because it was loose for longer periods of time and how many of them also over torqued stem bolts. That headset just calls impatient owners to damage steerer tube by over torquing. Moreover, I had to compress assembly more that I would like to eliminate play (like you assumed). It is better to sacrifice bearing life than to very quickly develop ring of death.
@@jkk916 Hmm, sounds like an issue for some CAAD12s because I worked on one with the same issue. It's the only bike where I had to preload the headset this much. As for the compression plug, I told him to not bother with the stock one and find an aftermarket version that's longer than the stem's stack height. Besides, now he can run whatever 1 1/8-inch top cap he likes.
@@yonglingng5640 You did right thing. I would say that both creaking BB and wobbly headset bearings stem from the same issue - bad manufacturing / QC. I also suspect that the design itself is problematic. I am not a mechanical engineer though.
Loved this , and as Jim points out about Iscol Alcohol to clean the frame down, I have it as i used it once to remove and replace new hood rubbers. 400 quid for a bike that's a top crit racing bike. You got a barging mate.
I have those exact wheels and brakes that came on my Cannondale Synapse, they now reside on my GTZR3.0 SS and brake just fine, I would try new pads and go over the rims with some turps to remove any oils. On a side note yes the wheels are really budget but the front wheel in particular just spins and spins forever, very little drag on the bearings and they won't really be slowing you down as far as rolling resistance. I would fit some Hunt Aero Wide aluminum wheels, just as light as Shimano C24s but more aero and tubeless, I did that to my Synapse. More comfortable than fitting carbon wheels that are any deeper than 35mm if you have to live with 25mm tires.
400,- pounds for a CAAD 12 is an insult for bargain hunters on eBay these days. 😮I was offered an old CAAD 2 for the same amount of money and it was in a horrible shape. A used CAAD 10 in Germany and Switzerland is almost as expensive as brand new one. And unfortunately it makes no sense anymore to import stuff from UK because of EU taxes and custom duties. 😕
The challenges can you create a one-off that everybody would love to have, I suppose that's the great thing about having room break you can pick and sauce lightweight stuff to make the bike ride better better forks better wheels better handlebars better stem you can set the look, when new bikes you pretty much take what you're giving except for wheels, maybe bar tape.
There are alot of deals nowadays and to find one where even the chain´s full of life is even better. Nice final result! Congrats on the bike and new Ibex 2.0!
Honestly this bike seems great as it is. With the exception of the saddle which can be a personnal choice it doesn't make a lot of sense to start investing and swap parts unless they are worn as it kind of kills the great value of it. So unless one is racing, I would just go through normal wear and replace tires for 28mm when the 25mm ones are worn, maybe buy a nicer, possibly tubeless wheelset when the brake track of the aksium are worn. I wouldn't upgrade anything immediately.
It looks fabulous to me..... My old road bike (2010 Allez 16) I bought it at least 3rd hand some 8 years ago.....I'm an off-road old bloke (MTB and gravel) most of the time but do like getting out on this old entry level bike....The only original parts left are the frame, fork and headset (which is still fine).....Love working on it and it's a good one to pick out of the collection to pootle about on....I'd love a £2k road bike but me old Allez will do for the time being......so easy to work on.... As for Aksium wheels, I really like them.....Cheap and cheerful but they don't wobble at 30+ mph down my local (one and only hill)....I have managed to get some 28c Gravelking SS's in mine with no hassle....and I do run a Redshift stem to soften up my local moonscape roads and lanes.
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Dear mister Bike Mechanic, please grow your super awesome mustache back. It was excessively complimentary to your demeanor and is dearly missed. Thank you.
Also line up the quick release lever with the fork 😂
@captain agree with you on that
Still riding my CAAD8 from 2016, I have been doing my own repairs and maintenance over the years and it still runs great. Plan to ride it for years to come. Great video!
To be honest, the frameset alone could fetch 400 quid. The fact you then got a groupset, winter wheels and bits and bobs is amazing. This is a race read bike, for a beginner, or an excellent winter/autumn training/second bike.
Quality content as always.
This frameset would never sell for £400 in the UK as bikes/frames don't hold value here. That price would likely get a Supersix Evo frame, and one without all the imperfections in the lacquer. The reason second hand bikes are cheap in the UK is because
- most second hand bikes require some level of refurbishment and many UK riders lack the basic home mechanic skills
- UK 'cycle to work' scheme gives a 30% discount on new bikes and allows you to pay over 12 months. It's a long running initiative to reduce obesity levels (it hasn't worked😂)
- vanity, UK cyclists like to show off a ride the latest bikes with the latest techs, the cycling scene has become very corporate
Where can we buy this ?
@@thevirtualeconomy please tell me where I can buy a good supersix evo frame for £400?
The Mavic Aksiums are still my go to wheelset for my daily commute. Really reliable and love having cartridge bearings.👍
@@thevirtualeconomy hi , just have to say that your wrong in your comment, irrelevant if your bike is old or new once one realised that ,'' I kinda like this freedom '', the rider will make improvements'', as he or she peddles along even more so if they join a bike club and breath it all in , , I could never afford my winter bike ,but my new old bike that it is was a steal at £400 Ridley Dura ace , Pro vibe cockpit , FastForward carbon tubular w/set ??? Happy New Year to me !!
I have a 2009 Super Six Hi Mod. She’s definitely a modern classic.
I built it up with SRAM Red mechanical, rim brake Zipp 303 firecrest wheels, ENVE aero carbon stem with Zipp 40cm aero handlebars. The bike and the components only have about 2000 miles total. I only ride it occasionally or group rides. She gets a lot of eyes looking when I take her out. And, she can still put the power down. Not as aero as modern bikes, but can still stay with the best of them.
So yes, build up your CAAD with some bling. It’ll look great while also being different from the bunch.
My first road bike was Caad 8 - lively, easy to ride bike, loved it to bits. Wished I could find it back and put on a new group set, new carbon wheels, happily ride those again for a fraction of what these new bikes cost. Something magical about a horizontal top tube without dropped stays, classic looking and never gets old.
I have one of those and was tempted to sell it off over the years. Decided not to, and the frame is still running great!
Even with a newer CAAD12 I still go back and ride the CAAD8. There's just something nostalgic and pleasant about the classic lines of that frame.
My first road bike was a Caad 8, and I've still got it 12 years later, it's awesome! Have had many bikes since but I won't get ride of it.
Quick fix for the lack of brakes... Give the braking surface of the wheels a good rub down with a fairly coarse emery cloth. If the brake pads look OK for wear then do the same to them. If not, replace the pads with one of the suggestions in the comments. I think you'll find the braking will be transformed. This simple fix would be a lot cheaper than buying new wheels.
Ultegra and 105 rim brake calipers are excellent (particularly the direct-mount versions). Alloy rims tend to get polished on the brake track after a while and the pads can become a bit glazed. Disc brakes on a road bike are great but rim brakes really aren't rubbish...
I have a Caad9. Great bike. It’s my main road bike lol. Weighs 17 pounds with pedals and bottles racks and a couple other accessories. I put carbon handlebars and Seatpost by Easton. Added Williams 30mm deep wheels. To get it lighter and more comfy.
I have a Caad10 ready to swap everthing over to. Found it for 150 usd. It’s in awesome shape
Fellow CAAD 12 owner here. I run 28s with plenty of room to spare (Pirelli P Zero Race TLR on 21mm ID wheels) and highly recommend it.
Another excellent video, Dave. And in particular, some great comments by your mechanic about sustainability, a subject that the mainstream bike industry, with its determination to keep us buying bikes (instead of maintaining our existing bikes) likes to keep quiet about. I much prefer your videos than those on GCN.
Sustainability is not often talked about when it comes to bikes. Aluminium, like steel, is 100% recyclable. Carbon is not and every bike will eventually end up in the landfill. Plus, the manufacturing of the bikes itself is wasteful. Already during production, 30% of the carbon material ends up in the bin.
I have 14000 miles on my used Caad 12 and I'm very happy. Upgrading wheels, HED Jet, last year soothed the itch for a new bike.
I've got a lot of time for this. I've just upgraded from a 2015 Cube Peloton, 105 with Ultegra mechs, rim brakes, exactly the same colour and wheels. Loved the bike but could only take 25c tyres and I too live in the Cotswolds and my back could only take so much of the back roads we have around here! Not sold the Cube yet and still love it - simple yet effective 🙂
Hi David. A true classic bike indeed. Certainly, new wheels with 28c should up the comfort stakes. I really enjoy your videos, David. I find you (and the videos) just fantastic as if you are having a conversation that is personable, and totally informative, and engaging in equal measure. Thank you. Finian from Ireland!
Thanks Finian 👍🙏
Amazing bike. Congrats on bringing a classic back to life. For rim brake blocks, i recommend the Swiss Stop Yellow King's but your terrain may be better suited to the black princes. I built up my 2017 Trek Emonda rim brake with mechanical dura ace and zipp 303's. It weights just 6.88kg, stops amazingly with the swiss stops, zooms up hills and fast on the flats. I have no plans to go disc and am planning a CAAD10 project build.
I've got a '12 which started out similar spec and as a 'spare' travel bike. After my Supersix frame broke, it inherited the full carbon cockpit, DA Di2 and exalith braked hoops. I'm fortunate to have other fancier bikes in the shed, but this one just makes me smile. Classic looks, rim brakes - a keeper.
I had an Emonda ALR about the same vintage and all I did was find some nice carbon wheels for it. Really changed the ride and feel of the bike for the better. I wouldn’t waste money on bars or paint it looks incredible as it sits.
You should definitely waste money on a handlebar... If it's not the right size for you!
Other than that if the bike rides harsh a carbon handlebar could insulate vibrations further (depends on the exact model of the bar). Same for your butt and the seatpost, but these are not necessary, only for making the ride smoother if needed.
Interesting that this project bike popped up since I just finished resurrecting a 2014 CAAD 10. It is 105 and not Ultegra. It also has a combination of internal and external cable routing. I set it up with the same gearing as my Domane and did basically the same refresh that your mechanic did on the bike. It took me a few rides to get used to the geometry and gearing but now, I find it pretty enjoyable to ride. It’s probably the fact that I do not have a set of ENVE carbon wheels on the Cannondale but, I am a little slower on the CAAD 10 when compared to my Domane. Overall, I am happy I spent the time and money getting this bicycle right for me and am happy to hear your comment that the CAAD 10 is a desirable bike. I went with my gut on doing this project and it appears that I made the right decision. Cheers!
I am NOT mechanically inclined at all. But after watching countless TH-cam videos, I have learned how to do all of that. It’s really not hard.
If one hires a mechanic to do all that, the cost starts to eclipse the savings of the used bike. But if one can do the work for oneself, as you Brits say, “happy days.”
I was riding this exact bike up until a month ago when I was doored and got a CAAD13 to replace it. Granted, I upgraded the drivetrain to Dura-Ace and the wheels to Ksyrium Pro UST, I may have ridden it for another 3 years. It was so fast and light that I couldn’t justify the price of carbon, the weight of disc, and the marginal gains of Di2. This thing was still incredibly fast stock!
Like the comments about doing your own work, but this is really also dependent on companies using standardized parts (which unfortunately today is not a given). Stuff like odd shaped seat posts, one piece stem / handlebars with internal cable routing, and press fit bottom brackets are very much not friendly to people trying to be home mechanics. I personally like doing all of my own work (just built up a brand new bike completely from parts) so I refuse to buy anything that isn't standard and can't be done at home.
Great video, a new set of decent wheels and brake pads will do it, a great bike for anyone at any level and won't be held back on a group ride. Don't forget to toe in the brake pads with a business card to prevent that stopping noise we all hate. ✌🏽 From Brooklyn NY.
How do you toe in brakes with a business card?
I really like the videos on the Cannondale! Looks like a great bargain and I’m interested to see how it stacks up against a modern day aero and carbon bike.
I find a tubeless setup to be a game changer for bikes like this, because of the lower pressures you can run. Even with the 25’s! Maybe this is something to consider when you select an upgrade wheelset?
I agree totally with your mechanic, go out and get an old bike, take it to pieces and restore it, you learn so much and when you are out on a ride and something is not right you know how to fix it. Plus it gives you a sense of pride in YOUR bike.
I have a 2013 Caad 10 with SRAM Red I purchased it when I was still racing because of the cheap crash replacement and it is still my everyday ride. The best upgrade I did was a set of carbon wheels. Smooths out the ride quite a bit. Cheers!
I've got a 2016 super six evo and it's an unbelievable bike. Still very light, quick and prefer the traditional geometry to the newer bikes
I've been using caad12 since 2019. I've done 50000km with it so far. Definitely a great road bike I especially enjoy on climbs. I have 1 pair of campagnolo zonda and 1 pair of vision team35sl wheelset. I think it's a great choice. I can't wait for your new videos about caad12. Greetings from Turkey. please add english subtitles.
The Caad12 will easily take 28mm tyres. I know cus I’ve had them on mine with plenty of room to spare. I reckon it will even take up to 30s. Put some carbon wheels on and it will transform the comfort and make it even faster. I still prefer mine over modern bikes.
Don't think 30's but you're correct about 28's
The disc version definitely takes 30mm; I had a pair of Schwalbe CX Pro fitted for winter off-road sections....
I think the 12 was the best version, it looks amazing. Can we just appreciate the welds too, not like the tripe companies are churning out now. I swapped my wheels for some Cero AR30s and SwissStop Blues, transformed the ride for about £350 without changing the looks too much.
I put AR30’s on my CAAD 10. Amazing value.
Nice to see someone promoting the culture of sustainable bicycling
@David Arthur - Just Ride Bikes my favorite CAAD series of CANNONDALE’S iconic bikes is undoubtedly the CAAD 7 & the CAAD 12, with the CAAD 7 being my #1 choice. It was fast & served me well in my races. I’ve owned the CAAD 3, 4, CAAD 7, CAAD 9, Two CAAD 10’S, CAAD 12 & Now I’m currently riding The Cannondale Synapse 2021. I know & love my Cannondale bikes ! 🚴🏾💨🔥
What a nice thing! thank you very much! I am not a big rim brake fan so I would love to see how far you can improve it.
Most of my riding is on a CAAD 12 w/rim brakes. I'm the only guy in my group still on an AL frame bike and it's just as fast and light. I also have a newer Giant Defy which I like as well but it is like riding a couch comparatively. It doesn't offer the pure quickness and fun I get from the CAAD. I upgraded to better wheels and GP 5000 28's which made lots of difference on longer rides. If it were my bike I'd keep the paint but I'd say do a respray so we can watch!
Have my own CAAD12.. New carbon wheels and 28mm tubeless tyres made a huge difference to the ride, so good, still my go to bike.
been wanting to upgrade the Mech groupset to Di2 for a while but keep having trouble justifying the cost for a "bling" upgrade.. (it's the same gearing but only for that spilt second of "oh yes that is electronic shifting" but with no extra watts😕).. R/Bs are sweet- I learnt how to brake years ago! 👍
Jim is the Bob Ross of bikes
I just build up my first bike, a caad 12 with 105 r7000. The frame was paint stripped and polished and I added some retro decals which give it a really beautiful look, that might be an idea.
Well done. I've always loved alloy Cannondales.
@@BrianRPaterson Thanks, yeah it is a much better riding bike in all ways (except comfort, which I dont mind) over my old Trek Domane 4.5.
I already have a CAAD 10 and it is enough bike for me...don't miss Carbon or disc brake. I bought it 10 years ago. Don't see a reason for an upgrade.
I have a CAAD 3 bike, and it's definitely firm. Great going up, not so good downhill on a bumpy road.
I found a nearly new original Redshift Shockstop seatpost second hand, and it makes all the difference. It's easy to set up and you almost forget its there.
I love the classic look, you should keep it like it. Get some nice shallow wheels to upgrade it swissstop brakeblocks are good
This is a terrific n+1 vintage bike (yes I know it's from 2016...). Jim's walk through was excellent. The only major things he did not mention were: servicing the brake pads and truing the wheels.
David's face when Jim said get yourself an old rim braked bike with external cables 😂 Obviously worried about those bike industry paychecks drying up!
🤣
Afterall, it ain't a real bike unless you spend at least 6,000-10,000 GBP on it right? Right?
So a lighter, way easier to work on bike, for about a tenth the cost of its modern day equivalent! Bike brands should "remake" these bikes and keep them alongside their other aero, internal cabled, impossible to work on for the average DIYer ranges!
Would be great to see you give it a few upgrades now like decent wheels and compare it maybe to the latest Cannondale equivalent back to back? Hopefully Cannondale won't disown you if you do!
Not seen you so excited in a video, like ever! To be honest I could watch this type of content all day, maybe go and find more second hand bargains and keep full servicing them to see how good they become!
Very informative video! Can you do a video about how to find good 2nd hand bikes? Where to look what’s a good price etc
I support this. I can afford nice bikes but have zero interest on spending insane money for something I am using to just stay in shape. I buy used bikes for that reason. It is fun to learn to maintain them and it doesn't really matter if I am slower because I am less aero or because I sometimes just use street clothes. To me, the most important thing is that I am getting out of the house and enjoying the world and nature. My job is computer based and I spend way too many hours in a dark room. It is nice just to spend some time outdoors without spending tons of money and time on something that is finnicky but top of the line.
Especially if you're being honest with yourself about if it really is the bike that is holding you back
💯
I fully endorse this comment. With decent wheels a pro could easily race this bike and be competitive. So for a weekend warrior it's more than good enough.
I own a '18 CAAD12 105, which I picked up second hand a year ago and I love it. Great video. thanks for sharing!
Get that zip tie off of those front cables; it'll wear through the coatings on the housings. When those bikes were new we didn't do that to them. IF you feel the need to tidy things up there, just use a small Velcro strap.
As for the brakes, you didn't clean the rims with emory cloth and you didn't upgrade the pads with new, better ones. Rim brakes work great if you know what you're doing...and it's not complicated.
Totally agree!
I just bought a high end 90s Italian framset and am in the process of building it up. The biggest difficulty is not going overboard as you'll easily exceed the maximum value of the bike, you have to treat it as a hobby more than a way to save money sonetimes.
Jim is not just your ordinary bike mechanic is he , what wheels will you use and why ? rim brakes that squeal means the pads are to hard loved the part 2 video thank you.
This as been a fantastic series, can’t wait to see the next instalment. I was lucky enough to pick up a mint condition CAAD 12 Black Inc edition 4 months ago, the plan is to make it my winter bike, summer is all about XC MTB, like many on this site I’m interested to see what David does with the wheels, for me that’s the only upgrade required, currently running Mavic Cosmic aluminium. This all the bike I need as a second bike and easy enough to do basic maintenance on
It just goes to show there are some bargain quality second hand rim braked bikes out there👍
Why spend 5, 8 or 10 times the cost to buy a new disc braked bike if you just want to enjoy cycling for exercise, commuting, sportives etc.
Yes, you maybe one of the only ones on a club ride with rim brakes these day's but don't feel pressured in to spending a fortune, when you really don't need to😀
Great video and nice to see you featuring and having a passion for not just the latest mega money bikes, nice though they are...👍
If I were to buy a second-hand bike, my main headaches would be as follows:
Are any of the frameset's hardware still possible to be sourced?
How many components are still truly usable?
Are there any proprietary parts I need to take note of?
It comes down to the understanding of many brands and models out there as no two bikes are exactly the same. In the end, regardless of the condition, I'd still fully service the entire bike because:
1) I'm capable of doing so.
2) Who knows if the bike is actually serviced?
3) If it really was serviced, to what extent? Is the quality any good?
I just bought myself a CAAD 12 this last Thursday! Coming from a 2021 Gen 3 Domane, I wanted something more suitable for crits and road races.
Get a spare rear derailleur hanger and under-BB shift cable guide in case the original one breaks.
Cadd 12 is awesome
I love my CAAD12. It's a Team CNCPT special edition bought as just a frameset. I've fitted Campag Potenza (Campag do their own BB30a BB) 53/39 with a set of LUN 45 wheels. Looks amazing and is super quick along the lanes. I can recable it in half an hour too. Probably the best alloy bike ever made.
It's also one of the very few aluminium bikes where the rear shift cable is routed inside the chainstay like most carbon bikes.
What a great find, David. And at such good price that I would've already ordered a set of 40-60mm deep carbon wheels; a -17deg stem; and perhaps a new seatpost, saddle, and narrow 36-38cm bars.
Quite likely the less than ideal braking performance has to do with the internal cable routing. I have two cannondales, one a CAAD 2 and the other a CAAD 12. OEM brakes were not very good. The CAAD 2 came with CODA calipers and the CAAD 12 with Tektro. I replaced them both with Shimano R7000 calipers and put new cables on it. The brakes are better now, but the 2 brakes *much* better than the 12. The 2 has external cable routing, whereas the 12 has internal. Not only does the 2 brake better, braking also feels better (less squishy). Up until 10 the CAAD bikes uses external routing, the 12 was the first with internal routing.
The 12 rides smoother than the 10 though. And it does fit 28 mm tyres without a problem.
Never had braking issues with any CAAD12 I've ever worked on.
5 mins33: Matching coloured ferrules with frame - a pro. Handlebar caps are yellow though. A great find David - the Cannondale bike was quite good too. Great mechanic mind - attention to details takes a good rebuild to a great rebuild .
Cool, thanks
Those zip-tied cables up front, tho' 🙄
Nice video! I have a CAAD 8 and a CAAD 10 and especially with the 10 I always wonder why would anyone need something different. Wheels are a real issue though. I really really would look forward to you putting a nicer set than the very mediocre Aksiums and then ride the bike in a sportif.
I ride a Caad12 - have had it since 2017. I have upgraded it with 50mm deep section Prime Black Edition carbon wheels, Cannondales carbon SAVE-seatpost, a BBInfinite BB (after lots of issues with the BB) and some Ultegra and Dura-Ace-bits, and bloody hell is it fast. It hit's about 7,3-7,5 kg with pedals. And I easily fitted 28 mm Continental GP 5000's on it. Do that asap!
But the breaking is horrible. Especially with carbon wheels.
So the Caad12 is for sun and fast, and otherwise I hit the tracks and the rain with my Canyon Grizl.
I had a black Caad12 with sram red, campy racing 1 wheels at 16lbs. Great climbing bike and very comfortable.
As someone with many old high end road bikes, this my advice for fixing the brakes.
Take the wheels off and then the tires and get a sanding block with some 220 grit sand paper and take them to the rim braking surface and clean using a circular and even motion.
Warning, don't do this this to carbon rims. Get some new brake pads.
Problem solved.
You can't go wrong with a CAAD; I had a CAAD12, and regret selling it. I'd add the SAVE carbon seatpost for it, and a lighter wheelset.
I fitted a set of 38mm Prime Carbon wheels to my Caad 10 back in the day they were a great upgrade. Try some Swissstop Pro Black or Flash EVO BXP rim brake pads😉
upgraded my CAAD 12 to a tubeless setup worked wonders with 28c conti str's roval slx24 rimbrake wheelset, comfort is top notch.
With cars, there is a bit of a philosophy amongst some; "Never tune out of class". Referring to, dont spend money on something that in the end for the same money you could have gone up a class for instead. In my mind the wheel upgrade in this case, I guess would be something of a debate. Sure if you put some carbon wheels on it, it would be better than it is now. But surely for the total cost of the bike, you could have gone with a carbon frame with nice carbon (rim brake) wheels from the getgo. I think many people get something "cheap" and start upgrading what they have instead of rationalizing "what is my max limit to spend on a bike including upgrades" and then just buy the best one for that amount from the start. At least the main foundations of it, like maybe spending the bit extra from the start to get the carbon frame, even if the cassette may not last longer than the summer. Of course I like a cheap bike and a good cost/performance ratio as much as anyone. But that ratio starts going downhill if you start spending the money. This bike might be at its prime just the way it is, as it has not costed an arm and a leg to get here but it rides great.
My wife and I both are riders and have been for years, and have always built up our own bikes; bought many (most) used, swapping out and/or selling bits and parts. Have slacked off in the past years though because for me, the biggest challenge to it all, even maintaining our own rides (I'm down to just a single speed and my BMC with a frame or 2 in boxes; she's still got about a half-dozen bikes), is space. Just amazingly horrid having 6 tool boxes, working on a drop cloth on a porch (esp. in winter!), and just having no room and having to dig about for stuff. (Time to build my own house, eh?). Just ranting I guess, but aside from that, it really is easy to work on one's own bike, and it is amazingly satisfying to build up your own ride for the first time.
And it's really satisfying to hear your wife query some guy about gear ratios and seeing his face go blank or seeing her school someone in fixing a flat (I suppose we've fixed as many flats for others as for ourselves...no, not true; we lived in Albuquerque, NM - flats were weekly - goat-heads)
Sadly, bike prices today are laughably outrageous. Spotted a Cannondale frame, decent shape, and the asking price was about $1200 USD. Good luck with that. I figure, hitting 60 in another year, that my wife and I will start to line up weekend estate sales, garage sale trips, and buy up all the COVID bikes we can, and plan on our 'retirement' as parts/frame suppliers, esp. good old non-disc frames.
But I'm rambling...
Great vid. Really nice bike. I am jealous, for sure.
I have a 2016 Supersix evo that looks at a glance, just like your CAAD 12. I just swapped on a set of Hunt 36 aero carbon wheels from another bike, I think it was well worth it. I also have a Sram Red etap group set, a little expensive and fiddly for a budget bike, but its light weight and electric! In my opinion I would not cover up the original paint on your CAAD 12, just polish it up. I look forward to seeing your upgrades!
That's a lovely rim brake bike. You should make a future video about upgrading it! I would put some blingy wheels on...
I'm really enjoying this project and it's nice to see an older bike getting some attention it deserves. My brother-in-law has an identical one to this and loves it. If you are swapping brake pads, try swiss stop black princes, I've used these on a few bikes over the years and they've been brilliant.
Really like these videos about second hand bikes, please do more of that! But where did Jim's mustache go??? :(
Carbon rim brakes will be dramatically worse than a stock alloy setup (especially in the wet). Stick with aluminum braking surfaces and put some Koolstop salmon pads on there, you'll have ample stopping power in all conditions. You could also look at upgrading the housing to a compressionless system like the jagwire elite link stuff
Very interested in more comparisons to modern bikes and upgrades! Have something similar
Will do!
Loving the series and well chuffed the CAAD has almost the same mechanical spec as my upgraded steel, horizontal top tubed, drop stayed MBK.
Always loved the CAAD series with cool out-back rear drop outs back in the day and very nearly got an early one as it was sat next to the MBK when I bought the first once in 1993.
Looking forward to see where you take this bike.
I own a 2011 Cannondale CAAD 10 3 Ultegra in Magnesium White. Absolutely love the bike. Enjoy your CAAD 12 and I look forward to more Cannondale content.
Great video!! I've just picked up a rim brake Merida 400. Paid for new press fit BB to be fitted then replaced cassette, chain, jockey/pulley wheels, gear cable rear derailleur and bar tape all in 380 euro Bargain. Many happy miles in the Costa sun!!!
Bike looks fantastic! For alloy brake pads, you can’t beat the KoolStop Dura 2 Salmon pads. I tan them on Aksiums as well.
+1 kool stops
Managed to get my CAAD9 back from a guy I sold it to. Original Dura Ace right through and spent $500 on a good service - a pleasure to ride!
I run Borg 31 wheels set up with 25c tubeless on both my rim brake bikes - both are CF frames but both are older than your CAAD 12. This alone transformed the ride quality and comfort. Just stick with Shimano brake blocks. They work very well in a good set up so your Ultegra brakes and new wheels will be fine.
David, I really appreciate your thoughtful and measured analysis of the bikes that you test. However as a long time road and mountain bike (intermountain west American) rider I have to say that while your butt must be more calibrated than mine, this review illustrates the danger of riding the latest and greatest that the bike industry is soooo anxious to sell to us bike addicts. I agree with the eminently qualified rider and straight up bike mechanic Jim the Bike guy, that while advances in bike design and material construction are amazing, they are really not necessary to the everyday bike rider (addict) like me. I absolutely love my early 90"s (Cali made) steel frame purple Masi road bike. Frankly I don't see the reason to install disc brakes on a road bike or overly complicated "tubeless" tires because bike riding has always been about FUN!
Just my two cents or whatever that translates in pence. Pease keep doing what you do, it really is appreciated by me and the greater road biking community!
Could you please let us know how many hours labour your mechanic spent on that bike and how much would his hourly rate be?
I did a similar cleanup/rebuild on a CAAD8 this year, and it cost ~$230 US here on the east coast
Great price for this bike! Good mechanics are the key!
Loved the video, and the bike. I re-built a Cannondale CAAD 3 R400 and upgraded to carbon bars, Enve wheels, Shimano Ultegra drivetrain, and a modern Stealth seat. Brought the weight down, made it more aero, and seemed (probably psychologically so) that it was quicker. I did not go to wider tires and agree with your assessment that road feel is still harsh (but racy). I suggest the upgrades and (since I gave that bike to my father in law) I am on the hunt for a used CAAD 12, 10, or 8 (thanks for reminding me they were all great bikes). Thanks again for another great video with a focus on the bike. Can't wait to see what you do with it and would love to see what you think of it on a club ride or criterium race.
The brakes should be fine, just change the pads and align them inwards like they should. Shouldn't be necessary to change the wheels to improve them. Maybe clean the rims better.
The paint job could be very interesting, but you have to do a good job! Kkkk
I bought a caad 8 (simple one made in Taiwan) recently and change tires, brake blocks, carbon seatpost and the settle. Also put this o/selle-italia-bar-pad-handlebar-tape
I’d assume that the old pads would of gone hard, so even new Shimano would be a improvement, this said my CX bike with terrifying canti’s was hugely improved with Kool Stop pads!
I think road bikes have changed more than MTB over the last decade? I have 9 ish year old Trance noticed that it more closely matches the modern Anthem than Trance ie geometry has become more slack etc.
CAAD 10 owner. Shod with a nice pair of Campag Eurus and BXP blue brake pads that just stop without drama. A lovely ride, even on the rough stuff. There really isn't much in it between that and my TCR Pro1 for ride feel. Obviously the TCR is smoother but they both behave with aplomb.
I have 7 bikes at the moment. I race, I'm not outside shaking my fist at the clouds, but being a privateer, I want easy to maintain. I also am an enthusiast, I like bikes, riding them, finding gems, commuting, all of it. I'm a tough person to be happy with any one bike, I want it fast, comfy, easy to work on, basically a unicorn. When I go out for a long ride, I grab my steel ritchey road logic, with 28mm tires/latex tubes, mechanical, and I smile every single time. I put air in the tires and it's ready to go. Oddly, my power and speed is no different from Wizz bang bike to steel "old tech" bike. Beats me, I don't ask questions, I like it.
Road Bike rim brakes FTW, absolutely and yes get some 28mm wheels on there and give us an update ride survey! Thanks for this which is absolutely useful and all good! 🌻
This bike looks like a perfect candidate for 650B conversion. I would take some careful measurements to make sure it's doable but generally any frame that will take a 700Cx28 tire will also take a 650B x 38. I would shoot for the excellent 38mm Rene Herse Loup Loup Pass mounted to a quality alloy wheelset. You'll need longer calipers of course. Most people go straight for Tektro 559's because they're guaranteed long enough however your Cannondale is tight enough that a medium reach set might work. I have such a bike. It went from twitchy crit bike to all rounder super bike. Smooth tarmac, broken pavement and "kitty litter" trails are all on the menu. It handles the occasional gravel road well enough without having to endure the slacked out geo of a true gravel bike. Where I live there isn't enough gravel to warrent a true gravel bike anyway. I've set several personal FKT's on this bike. Cosmetically I wouldn't lay a finger on your Cannondale. It's gorgeous as is!
(Respray) I have a Caad 12 original condition rides like a dream purchased a Scott RC 40 Very nice bike but felt numb sometimes road feedback makes the RIDE feel more alive thanks for doing the caad 12 great video forgot to mention brakes you just have to compensate disk are awesome but rim brakes do the job
Stock shimano pads are fine, but if not, then kool stop or swissstop. I would add a carbon seat post, carbon bars, and some nice mid height wheels, some like 40mm or less
Throw some nice carbon rims (45)on it please. With SwissStop Black Prince brake blocs. They will make you stop 👍
Hi Dave. My bike is a 2011 Synapse - so watching this series is super interesting and quite relevant. Ie what one can still tease out of an ageing bike. Would love to see the difference a respray and decent carbon wheels makes. Think that’s all it really needs. Cheers
What a pro ... Great review by this mechanic. Very practical for ordinary cyclists
I would choose that bike which has mechanically compatible parts over any latest bikes which has proprietary BS parts. They may look cool but they are hellish to workaround.
Somebody gets the right idea! ☝️
a bargain for 400 quid!! I'd recommend Swisstop Flash alloy brake pads. Far superior to the Shimano pads that come with the calipers. Probably not as good as discs are, but I'm still running rim brakes
I own both CAAD 12 and 10. Got more than 50.000 km on the 12. I bought 12 because I liked 10 and I felt slight geometry changes went into right direction. I love the bicycles but the bottom brackets are quite noisy on both. I am happy though that bearings and axles don't get destroyed at accelerated pace and that they run more or less smoothly all the time. Also, headset tend to be problematic.
So if yours has perfect BB and headset I think you have a gem.
I would say CAAD 12 is noticeably more comfortable than 10. It seems that its fork is great at dampening vibrations. I would say that it is better at that than any modern bike with disc brakes. However, CAAD 10 is the one that is slightly stiffer, also in the BB area.
For aluminum rims I would choose Swisstop pads, for carbon fiber Campagnolo. If rear brake gives you vibrations, I would suggest cork pads or cheap pads from Aliexpress. Those will reduce braking force but it is still more than enough for rear wheel.
What's problematic about your CAAD12's headset? Needs a lot of preload just to eliminate play?
@@yonglingng5640 First of all, stock compression plug is inadequate even if you follow manufacturers instructions and cut steerer tube right under the upper end of the stem. I found out that there is no way I can assemble headset within torque specifications so it wont eventually come loose (usually after a handful of rides on bumpy roads). I just wonder how many inattentive owners damaged headset assembly because it was loose for longer periods of time and how many of them also over torqued stem bolts. That headset just calls impatient owners to damage steerer tube by over torquing.
Moreover, I had to compress assembly more that I would like to eliminate play (like you assumed). It is better to sacrifice bearing life than to very quickly develop ring of death.
@@jkk916 Hmm, sounds like an issue for some CAAD12s because I worked on one with the same issue. It's the only bike where I had to preload the headset this much. As for the compression plug, I told him to not bother with the stock one and find an aftermarket version that's longer than the stem's stack height. Besides, now he can run whatever 1 1/8-inch top cap he likes.
@@yonglingng5640 You did right thing. I would say that both creaking BB and wobbly headset bearings stem from the same issue - bad manufacturing / QC. I also suspect that the design itself is problematic. I am not a mechanical engineer though.
Had my caad 12 3 years , Vision wheels & carbon seat tube made a big difference . Excellent bike.
Loved this , and as Jim points out about Iscol Alcohol to clean the frame down, I have it as i used it once to remove and replace new hood rubbers. 400 quid for a bike that's a top crit racing bike. You got a barging mate.
I have those exact wheels and brakes that came on my Cannondale Synapse, they now reside on my GTZR3.0 SS and brake just fine, I would try new pads and go over the rims with some turps to remove any oils. On a side note yes the wheels are really budget but the front wheel in particular just spins and spins forever, very little drag on the bearings and they won't really be slowing you down as far as rolling resistance. I would fit some Hunt Aero Wide aluminum wheels, just as light as Shimano C24s but more aero and tubeless, I did that to my Synapse. More comfortable than fitting carbon wheels that are any deeper than 35mm if you have to live with 25mm tires.
400,- pounds for a CAAD 12 is an insult for bargain hunters on eBay these days. 😮I was offered an old CAAD 2 for the same amount of money and it was in a horrible shape. A used CAAD 10 in Germany and Switzerland is almost as expensive as brand new one. And unfortunately it makes no sense anymore to import stuff from UK because of EU taxes and custom duties. 😕
The challenges can you create a one-off that everybody would love to have, I suppose that's the great thing about having room break you can pick and sauce lightweight stuff to make the bike ride better better forks better wheels better handlebars better stem you can set the look, when new bikes you pretty much take what you're giving except for wheels, maybe bar tape.
There are alot of deals nowadays and to find one where even the chain´s full of life is even better. Nice final result! Congrats on the bike and new Ibex 2.0!
Honestly this bike seems great as it is. With the exception of the saddle which can be a personnal choice it doesn't make a lot of sense to start investing and swap parts unless they are worn as it kind of kills the great value of it. So unless one is racing, I would just go through normal wear and replace tires for 28mm when the 25mm ones are worn, maybe buy a nicer, possibly tubeless wheelset when the brake track of the aksium are worn. I wouldn't upgrade anything immediately.
It looks fabulous to me.....
My old road bike (2010 Allez 16) I bought it at least 3rd hand some 8 years ago.....I'm an off-road old bloke (MTB and gravel) most of the time but do like getting out on this old entry level bike....The only original parts left are the frame, fork and headset (which is still fine).....Love working on it and it's a good one to pick out of the collection to pootle about on....I'd love a £2k road bike but me old Allez will do for the time being......so easy to work on....
As for Aksium wheels, I really like them.....Cheap and cheerful but they don't wobble at 30+ mph down my local (one and only hill)....I have managed to get some 28c Gravelking SS's in mine with no hassle....and I do run a Redshift stem to soften up my local moonscape roads and lanes.