Carbon wheels are definitely one of the best upgrades you can make to an older bike. Interestingly David’s Cannondale is only 7 years old and is referred to as being an old bike. Most of us cyclists out there tend to ride bikes that are 5 to 10 years old. So I certainly wouldn’t consider a 7 year old bike as being old.
As an older 'enthusiast' (regular social bunch rides), I would absolutely love a mid level carbon, electronic/ disc, tubless, aero bike... if gifted. But, no N+1 budget available here. In all honesty, other than bling, to my world testing, there is little difference in feel between my 2007 Bianchi/ campy record R/B, with Euros wheels to most $3.5-5K bikes.. ( luckily I can just fit 28mm tyres)
Of all the money I’ve spent on bikes and parts, my biggest regret was buying carbon rims for my rim brake bike. One one ride, I got an unexpected downpour. I knew to brake early to clear the water, but the braking performance (even with the Hunt-supplied pads) was so bad, I nearly continued into the path of a truck. But what nailed it for me was a long gnarly descent that requires heavy and almost continuous braking. I rode it on a hot day and realized that I had no idea if the rims were handling it fine, or were on the verge of melting and delaminating. Scary stuff. I should have bought alloy climbing wheels for that bike. Carbon and discs are the better match.
@@tfj100 My wet braking performance is much better and more reliable with discs. On most descents, I haven’t worried. Either they aren’t that long, or I was able to let the brakes breathe enough that I didn’t worry. One particular local descent goes on for miles, is steep and exposed, has tight corners, and has crappy pavement with marbles. People say, “you’re not supposed to ride the brakes”, but whenever I would let it roll a bit, it would just get hairier and I’d have to brake more aggressively. I made it down without problems, but that doesn’t mean much. Was I well within safety margins, or was I on the verge of a failure? The problem is that it’s unknowable, and a wheel failure there could send you to your death. Rather than enjoying the descent, it was worrying and stressful. Rim brakes and alloys wouldn’t have worried me, nor do discs. Note that racers used rim brakes on tubular rims (and generally have better roads and risk higher speeds than I would.) We morals ride clinchers. With tubulars,the thickest part of the carbon is at the braking surface, and the pressure in the tire is contained. It’s not pressure on the rim. With clinchers, the braking surface is on the thin flanges of the wheel, and the 100psi or so is pushing those flanges outward. So, high heat, thin material, and high pressure, all in the same area. Bad combination. On that descent, I took multiple breaks to let the rim cool. It’s disquieting, given that I would be unlikely to get any helpful feedback until the wheels fail or warp. Not everyone has a descent like that in their backyard. I do, and I prefer to ride it without worry.
Two summers ago I blew up a tyre going on a long undulating downhill while on carbon rim-brake wheels on tubeless tyres. The rear rim got so hot from constant braking that once I locked it up on a fast descent, the tyre blew up. Needless to say I slid on the asphalt for about 10-15 metres resulting in a large road rash all over my left thigh, butt, and forearm ... and the frame was covered in sticky slime. These were quality Flo wheels with proprietary brake pads ... So, carbon rims and brake pads are not a good match ...
@@g.d.1722 This is exactly the risk. Rim brakes and carbon wheels are a good match until the split second they are not, and there’s no way to know that you’re reaching the limit until you’ve crossed it. Glad you are okay, with injuries, but ones that that heal.
Swissstop black prince carbon pads are pretty good in the rain compared to other pads. Terrible compared to disc brakes obviously but they also perform as good as any brake system in the dry. They’re a bit expensive but you get what you pay for with brake pads
I just upgraded to carbon wheels 2 weeks ago. (Roval C38) . I don't have a power meter but I think I'm almost 1MPH faster. on my standard 20 mile ride. Where I notice it most is when I transition to going uphill, I don't get that "lag" feeling as I start up the hill. In other words, I feel like I don't lose momentum quite as rapidly. My bike is 4 years old now and though the wheels were expensive, $825 on sale, I feel like I'm getting the more out of my bike, so a thumbs up from me on the purchase.....a review by Dave being one reason I purchased the wheel set I did.
Exactly the same experience for me. My stock wheels felt like riding through treacle whenever the road pointed upwards. Getting lighter carbon wheels with better hubs mean I get further up the hill before running out of the speed I'm carrying, I can be a gear or two harder for the same speed, an I roll downhill a LOT faster. I routinely out-roll heavier riders even though I'm very tall but skinny and lightweight. No regrets.
Here is a thought...the price of 2nd hand rim brake parts are high because they are still highly sort after, and people still want them no matter what pretty much all journalists say.
Always amazed at how much nicer these older bikes look with a set of modern carbon wheels. If that were my bike I’d probably have to keep the Hunt’s or find something similar! Cheers!
I complitly agree. I've got a Colnago super, Saronni red, steel frame from the 80's.. The thing was ugly until i buy 2017 Campagnolo Bora Ultra.. Now it is the best looking bike on earth
And be careful when descending in hot climates. Carbon wheels and rim brakes can get very hot which can result in your inner tube exploding and or even rim damage.
Hi David, thanks for an eye opening video. The Cannondale "Project" really shows what can be done on a budget, and for those that are on a budget. I've always believed the frame is the heart of a build or bike and peripherals can always be up graded. Your video must give encouragement to cyclists that struggle financially to achieve the best they can!
David is a true bikelover. Makes a quality youtube video about an 7 year old bike he bought himself. David, stay beeing a real bicycle enthusiast! Love from Germany ❤
I think we are in agreement. Of course he is doing it for the views. It is his job! But he is not getting paid by Hunt to test these wheels, or by Cannondale to showcase this bike. He even made an effort to measure the objective improvement to the bike's performance, which is really nice.
I upgraded my 9 year old canyon roadlite with 50mm carbon wheels. It was the best upgrade I ever did. They are 25mm wide and I run 28mm tires. The bike feeling is so much better and the comfort so much better. And people, I love the sound! The sound of speed every time I ride is still until today so motivating.
So... you can't really feel the difference in the weight, the performance numbers seem quite marginal, you get blown around in the wind, the hub noise is horribly annoying, and the braking surface is questionable... yet you say spending £1000 here is absolutely worth it? That seems like an absolutely ridiculous conclusion.
He said these weren't too bad. Besides, being blown around doesn't happen every ride. It rarely happens unless you live somewhere that is consistently very windy
@DaveCM In Kansas, windy days are the norm. Calm/light winds can be counted on 2 hands each year. This is probably the biggest thing that keeps me from carbon rims. A lot of people in Kansas have carbon. I just prefer not to have to wrestle with my steering
I just rebuilt my CAAD 9 with a complete 105 groupset and Ultegra wheelset. The CAAD frame is so well built, you can't see the welds. I've yet to see anything modern that's as nice
I recently grabbed a set of HED Jet6’s for my 5 year old bike and was amazed at how they kept speed over distances. My average speed on Strava went up by 3kmh. There could be some placebo in that though. The biggest difference I noticed was the comfort. The wider 21mm internals dropped my pressures to 70 max which was huge. More than anything they’re damn sexy and I feel a bit special out on the road ( but I’m not ) and they get me out on the road more often. Love them
Great info. I just dusted off my 20 year old CAAD 7 bike and took it for a spin on one of my regular loops. Even with the ancient Mavic Kysriums on it I managed to beat my best time by a full seven minutes over ~60 km (compared to a 2022 Ribble CRG Ti on Hunt Gravel Race wheels with 30c tubeless tires). Something to be said for the old, stiff, lightweight bikes. To be honest I didn’t find the ride overly harsh on the old Al bike. I just might look into some new wheels for the old ride…
Just bought my dad's old felt z95 bike from 2014 and this series is inspiring me. For our flat roads, rim brakes are completely fine. Next will be new wheels for sure but don't think I'll splash out so much for carbon, just gonna get high end aluminum.
I'm so stoked that you keep making content on this bike, it is SO good looking. I had a CAAD10 back then and have always wanted to replace it with any CAAD model similar to it.
@@veganpotterthevegan LMAO how do they perform better? they are not any stiffer and are def not lighter..... Jonas is still winning the tour by 7 minutes if he was riding this bike
@@veganpotterthevegan LMAO im not talking about a time trial, a bike frame has little to zero effect on actual aerodynamics the only thing worth a damn are the wheels and maybe handlebar to a small effect
I'm riding a very similar setup: 2018 series Caad13, also Ultegra but with Fulcrum Quattro carbon wheels for a couple of years now. And even after the bike has done 15k km easily, the combination is pretty spectacular, the alu frame is very stiff and not forgiving at all, but with the wheel combo it very rapid, hugely fast on pickup acceleration. With the carbon wheels it's not the most comfortable bike to put it mildly but a blast when punching. I'm running it with campa red brake pads which actually make the bike stop pretty well (but no disc comparison at all). This is a fun, very nimble and speedy bike on a relatively small budget...
Nice deep carbon aero wheels make any bike look pretty damn awesome! I love them on a nice classic Ti or steel frame! Adding new bits to my bike always makes me excited to ride more, and generally that will make you stronger and faster! And there’s the mental aspect… if you feel faster and stronger, does that translate to the road? And looks like the proof is in the riding!
2:31 you will destroy your expensive wheels by not using carbon specific brake pads. Also at 2:55 you can see that because those wheels are wo wide your pads are at horrible angle which will destroy your wheels even faster while not being able to slow you down properly.
I think it would be useful to upgrade to a decent alloy wheel set at a lot less cost and see what that improvement that does over the Mavics. I’ve done it on my CAAD8 to a JRA tubeless wheel-set (from Mavics) and the frame comfortably takes takes a 28mm tyres. I love riding it to the point my modern Enigma Etape is now coming out only for special occasions!
I agree, i own a Caad 12 and went for Shamal Alloy c17 tubeless/28mm. Pirelli P Zero Evo, i have tried different carbon wheels and while bike felt a little faster i did like the look.
Afer watching this I have ordered the same wheels for my Giant TCR 2020 rim brake bike, upgrading from Mavic Ksyrium wheels. Cant wait to give them a go. Going to fit Conti GP500S TLR tyres. Thanks for making this David. Hunt should pay yousome commission!
I bought a 2011 fuji for $180. I convinced myself getting a new wheelset wasn't worth the cash, and I would end up buying a new bike that comes with nicer wheels. But I love working on this old bike. I can change the cables without taking the bar tape off... Once a good set of carbon wheels turn on on market place im pulling the trigger.
When I started racing as a 15 year old I was told by the club elders, if you want to improve performance the biggest improvement would be made by upgrading to the best wheels and tyres you can afford. Fifty odd years later that still applies yet the number of people I see on expensive machines who skimp on things like wheels and tyres amazes me.
@David Arthur what is your take on the CAAD 12 ? I started my cycling journey way back in 2000 / 2001 until the present & the only road bike I’ve owned were all Cannondales, starting with the CAAD 3, 4, 7, two CAAD 9’s, one CAAD 12, & now the Cannondale Synapse 2021 with the CAAD 7 and 12 My overall favorite of the CAAD series. Now since I no longer race and leaned to more of a comfort bike I decided to purchase my latest Endurance road bike the Cannondale Synapse, with no disappointment. But I can honestly say I love how the CAAD 12 handles nimbly and with punch ! So I’d love to hear what you think of this bike compared to other high end bikes. I’m also considering building a steel bike from scratch & hope you can do a review on a steel framed bike in the near future 👍🏽
I recommended a pair of Hunt Aero 35 wheels to my friend's wife. She absolutely loves them. The Bontrager Race lites she had were good, but she says these are way better. Myself, I replaced my Dura ace C25's with Ican 40 aero wheels. That was such an improvement, that I bought a second set of 45's for my Trek 6.5. Again, it was a big improvement over the Bontrager Paradigm Elites that came with the bike.
I've had Hunt carbons on mine. Bike frame is Columbus Spirit. They have been great but it's important to note that they are much more fragile than alloy wheels. The lanes in this video look very much like the lanes I ride on. My rear carbon Hunt started to delaminate - just in one area - I sent pics to Hunt who were very helpful and reckoned I was unlucky and this was likely a stone strike. The wheel was written off. I've replaced it with a Mavic Ksyrium which is about the same weight but much tougher. With carbons and rim brakes you also need to be careful with overheating. I'm still running the front Hunt so far OK.
spent a couple of weeks riding my 2016 BMC carbon/ rim brake bike while the Aethos was in the LBS waiting for sram warranty parts and reminded myself how good it still is. Also remember the revalation when i bought my first set of deep aero wheels - Bontragers alloy with carbon fairing, perhaps a decade ago...and the light disappointment with early set of Hunts that replaced them about 6 years ago..now on Hypers and very happy with price/performance.
Bought the same bike and wheels for my girlfirend, and recently swapped the wheels for my Winspace Hyper 2023 R33 (1229g), with 28mm. P Zero Race and Pirelli TPU tubes (37g). "You will never get these back", was her response after the first ride. 😅
I just scored a Giant Tcr for $550 rim brake , i honestly say used bikes are going up in price but u can find some great deals with rim brake bikes, the cost of disc brake bikes are so expensive and now rim brake bikes no longer being included in the newer models since everyone is going disc, your caad 12 looks awesome with the hunt wheels, i buy only rim brake bikes because they are a better value now, great video, thank you for doing this , Much love from California. ( if u dont want the wheels because it's a loud hub let me know i'll take them off your hands ) lol.
This was with Hunt's own carbon-specific brake blocks and the braking was definitely not the same as alloy. I've never tested a carbon wheelset where the brakes felt as good as alloy imo
@@davidarthur I have four bikes with disc brakes from different brands and not one feels the same as another. Shouldn't assume for one minute that carbon rim brakes are all the same.
David thank you so much for this series! I’ve been following closely as I have this exact model of bike! Lately I’ve been getting that N+1 itch, especially with the TdF on but you’ve shown me some steps to take to make it feel new again, as mine is pretty much all stock. Cheers from the states and keep up the great work!
Tubeless is pretty much the same rolling resistance as the same model clincher with a latex tube. Unlikely to see more than 6 watts or so against a pair of butyl tubes, at least at sensible speeds.
Very nice review. I used to run my previous carbon bike with rim brakes on Vision Alu-Carbon wheel. They are probably the right compromise to save some weight, improve the look and the aero and still have a very good and reliable break feeling…and they were expensive but way cheaper then full carbon wheel.
I have an aluminium road bike that I'm actually quite fond of; it's a great bike, no complaints. I did switch to a carbon wheelset from the alloy ones that came with the bike, and it made a big difference in terms of comfort and performance. However, switching to nicer tyres made at least as much of a difference as the wheels, and that change was significantly more cost-effective. Also, I don't think rim brakes with carbon wheels are a good idea in wet conditions. If you live in an area with a lot of rain and you're committed to rim brakes, I would think twice about switching to carbon wheels.
That’s what’s puzzling to me. I get the impression that carbon wheels are really a bling factor. Also no matter how much I search for a comparison between disc brakes vs aluminum alloy rims for stopping. I hadn’t noticed any.
It would be interesting to look at how much of a difference wheel bearings make in your test. I would expect the new Hunts you tested had better bearings and fresher lubricant than the old Mavics. Just a thought.
I made this exact wheel swap on my same Ultegra equipped CAAD12 back in February, shaving a full 1lb (500 ish grams) in weight, but I bought the Hunt 36m deep wheels. Yes super loud hub. But I absolutely noticed the responsive difference, and love them. Now my total bike weight is a respectable 16.4 lbs.
I did the same with a 2015 aeroad with the same wheelset but upgrading from deep section Mavic's. These wheels are much better decenders beciase the profile is a more up to date U shape than the older V section which is scary as hell in a crosswind on a big descent. Agree also with the noisy hub, extra grease dampened the racket a bit - only a bit! 😮
The depth of the rims is a bit much for me. Another more solid looking crankset would look awesome with this combination btw :) I really liked the CAAD12 project. It seems like a perfect and affordable after work training horse :) But this kind of upgrade seems out of line. Iam really happy that someone tested alu vs carbon wheelsets, but buying carbon wheels with rimbrakes ... not on my Todo list. So my upgrade path after the CAAD12 would be a bike with hydraulic breaks and than a good pair of carbon wheels. Keep up the good work! cheers
@@chuckyfox9284 The thick wheelsets and the wispy looking crankset do not compliment each other. In my opinion. And I dont want to imply that the crankset is bad. I would just prefer a FC-R7000 looking next to the massiv carbonwheels.
@@BurgerTime7441 I didnt want to imply that it is bad in any way. I just would like, next to these huuge black wheelset, to see something like the FC-R7000. Also black and bold looking :)
@@veganpotterthevegan I didnt mean to imply that the cranks are bad. I just said that more heavy looking (black) cranks might look better with the deep wheelset.
I have similar wheels from Hunt. I agree with your assessment of the hub noise, it is like being chased by a swarm of angry wasps. I'd also agree that in dry conditions, they are definitely faster. However, once you introduce some rain, the terrible stopping distance carbon wheels provide means I have such little confidence in coming to a stop in time should an obstacle appear, that I end up riding quite a bit slower.
I did the same thing for an old 2016 Cube Attain GTC RACE that i had. I was running a set of shallow rimmed handbuilt hoops (DT Swiss RR440 with lower end Novatech hubs) for donkeys of years. Noticed one day that the rear wheel wasnt rolling straight so I took it down to the shop to have the wheels trued and thats when the mechanic there pointed out that the rim was cracked in multiple places. I bought a pair of hunt Aero Wide super dura's just to get the bike back on the road (people complain about hunt using bad bearings but ive not had any problems) and through the winter, then picked up a set of 55mm carbon wheels earlier this year. Even if i didnt go any faster on it, it still *LOOKED* every bit as fast 😅 I dont have the same punchy acceleration on the 55mm wheels as i did on the hunt's but im able to cruise at much higher speeds and pretty effortlessly too. I'll probably pick up a 40 or 45mm later on and see how I fair with that instead. I originally had a choice between 45 and 55mm but i chose the 55 as most of the riding i do is on the flats. Probably very overkill for me as Im not a club rider either and only participate in endurance rides like the Dynamo two or three times a year but at least Ive got a fun and fast bike to zip around on for a few hours during the weekends
If I were to change / upgrade my current wheelset, which are HED Ardennes SLs, for carbon wheels, I would def opt for the HUNT rim version like in this video. However the HED wheels I do have as mentioned, are quite high quality with top shelf hubs, ride is super smooth and so changing for the cost difference is a primary consideration. Good demo video DA. I would keep those.
Lol, I have a 2019 CAAD12 105 Disc. It is amazing and at the time I had the chance to get a CAAD13 instead but just preferred the look and feel of the 12. I slapped some $800 Mavic Ksyriums on them from FB marketplace and am chuffed. I've been setting PR's up all the local mountains.
The dropout standard is the reason why I wouldn't pick a CAAD12 Disc. I'm OK with both brake types, but even if the CAAD12 Disc uses thru-axles on both the front and rear dropouts, I'd still take the rim brake version as it doesn't look right with disc brakes. 😅
I've upgraded my (Decathlon) Triban 520 with a 50mm deep rim brake carbon EliteWheels set, and they made the bike look so amazing it makes me wanna ride it, so yeah, I'd say it is definitely worth it!
Agreed the freehub is terribly loud on hunts, I have enough just tuning gears in the stand on customer bikes 😂 Braking on the hunts is crap but remember David not all wheels are equal a set of boras or zipp wheels will far out perform the hunts which use a low quality resin and also have no grooves in the tracks. Higher price of course but you pay for what u get sometimes. Another great option of wheel is the Hed jet blacks a carbon wheel with an alloy GROOVED brake track imo the best braking you'll get on a road bike far better than a 160mm rotor without any downsides of using a carbon brake track
"the best braking you'll get on a road bike far better than a 160mm rotor without any downsides of using a carbon brake track" No. I have two pairs of Dura-Ace wheels with aluminum brake-tracks, and carbon caps, and while they brake like a good alloy rim-brake wheelset (which is really what they are), they aren't even *close* to a decent 160mm hydraulic disc.
@@henseleric you've missed out an important part coping my statement 'GROOVED' .... your dura ace wheels while being alloy have a 'smooth' braking track... They are NOT grooved like the HEDs wheels 🤦♂️🤦♂️ I can only assume you've not used the HED JET wheels as you'd be aware of this 👍
I’d definitely like to see some comparison testing between the Cannondale with the Hunt wheels and a modern bike. Hopefully you will keep your position on each bike the same, similar power etc.
The difference made by upgrading the wheels is totally noticeable, speed, handling, rolling resistance. It makes a 50% difference according to my mechanic and although I was skeptical, after 2 years on my carbon wheels I can agree with him.
I bought a set of 62 mm carbon wheels for my old old GT bike recently and the look of it is stunning. Same with your Cannondale! Definitely show a comparison between a new halo spec bike vs this project bike. Cheers!
Compare it with modern aero bike. I’m in that limbo right now. Have a supersix 2016 rim and upgraded to hunt’s 50 mm. Live everything about my upgrade. Now let’s see if a modern bine justifies the upgrade? Thx for your great contents
I put Hunt Carbon Rim Brake wheels on my 2018 Giant TCR Advanced bought secondhand but unused last year. I call it N+1. It's bright orange too like your Cannondale. Great minds think alike!
My Sworks SL5 with Vision's Metron 55 SL still fast and amazing. Yeah, that point you need to pay attention is about the rim brakes on wet conditions is not good.
Question is, how much do you enjoy riding the bike, especially vs some of the carbon ones you have. Dry weather, nice conditions, is it one you choose to take out?
80mm carbs on an older round tube format rim brake frame = modern aero bike only lighter, no real reason to drop 14k, and I like modern aero bikes, but from a budget/performance standpoint this is the way to go
I have a 2014 Focus Culebro, with a very similar configuration like this CAAD12 when I bought it. 9 years later I've finally could buy carbon wheels and it is incredibly faster
I've made the same upgrade on my 25 years old look 251 kg using a pair of ffwd carbon wheels and a used Shimano ultegra groupset. Very happy with the new "look"...not so happy with the overall comfort and the noise
Back when Cannondales were still nice. The first time I learned about Cannondale in the early 2010s, I always thought their bikes looked distinct from other brands. Nowadays, I caught myself falling for their traditional double-diamond frame construction. Dropped seatstays have no place for bikes that want a little classic touch.
I always thought a coast distance test mat be a way to control the human variable. Coast the bike down a decline then measure the point the bike stops. Now, tire pressure is a variable, rider position, exact path, etc, but this could be a way of eliminating some variables.
I definitely don't ride to a target speed - I'll either ride to feel or heart rate, and then I'm interested to see what speed that achieves. Testing with a constant power then seeing what extra speed an upgrade gives you would be a better real-world testing scenario.
Honestly, a lot of the wattage gained might be because of butyl inner tubes vs tubeless. Going to TPU or latex inner tubes alone saves around 10w at 30k/h. The expensive wheelset should be setup with the same tires and butyl tubes for a fair comparison.
Lovely bike. I start appreciating wonderful clean rim break setups! Great aspects for considering carbon wheels. Well done (I'm riding 30mm bontrager aeolus rim)
In my experience, since it's a proven strategy, equipping an older generation racing bike (15 years ago) with modern high-profile rims generally works: as you specified in your table, power watts are saved, therefore equal effort goes faster. However, I must point out that the bike, not being an aero-bike, with high-profile rims and in the presence of strong lateral or frontal winds, becomes quite difficult to ride, and you risk dangerously skidding, for example at high speeds when going downhill. So I suggest, on very windy days, to reassemble the old rims, out of caution.
Just done the same with Zipp 303s on my aluminium Specialized Diverge.Comp E5. Got rid of those dreadful Axis Elites. Although it's a gravel bike i tend to use it more on roads, and the result with this new wheelset is v similar to your report here. Hill climbs feel far.more straightforward.
It's mainly because the road was 1% gradient up for the 30kph run and slight headwind, so faster on the return. That's the challenge of real world testing when you have to deal with roads that aren't perfectly level or there's wind about
Did this 5 years ago to one of my ali bikes. They lasted less than a year, rims wore so thin that they were dangerous. I would never use deep rim carbon wheels on anything other than a disc bike now. I love them and have them on my plastic weekend warrior but never again on a calliper brake....just chucking £1,000 down the drain. look good though...for the 10 months that I could use them
Bought a pair of carbon wheels off ali express for less than 1/2 of what those Hunts go for. I've put at least 1500K on them with no issues. I did do a bit of research before buying them but you can get quality wheels for a very good price if you do your homework.
Thanks for your nice video ! I did the same thing on my 6 years old bike and I just regret that I didn't do that sooner for 2nd hand Campagnelo Bora One 50 wheels ! The difference is amazing but it's clearly braking less efficiently specially on rainy conditions ⚠
excellent breakdown, David. I have a CAAD10 from 2011. and still ride it hard. LOVE this bike. i have Mavic alloy wheels and popped a spoke on last climb. I still ride w/ rim brakes and tubes. Can I order the HUNT carbon wheels with tubes? also, were you on the HUNT 62 or HUNT 82? and big difference other than price? you did highlight I'm going to lose some braking w/ calipers. Thanks again! im subbed now
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Carbon wheels are definitely one of the best upgrades you can make to an older bike. Interestingly David’s Cannondale is only 7 years old and is referred to as being an old bike. Most of us cyclists out there tend to ride bikes that are 5 to 10 years old. So I certainly wouldn’t consider a 7 year old bike as being old.
It's just old in the context of constantly reviewing the latest newest road bikes that's all
A 7 year old bike is basically new to me. My road bikes are 25 and 22.
As an older 'enthusiast' (regular social bunch rides), I would absolutely love a mid level carbon, electronic/ disc, tubless, aero bike... if gifted.
But, no N+1 budget available here.
In all honesty, other than bling, to my world testing, there is little difference in feel between my 2007 Bianchi/ campy record R/B, with Euros wheels to most $3.5-5K bikes.. ( luckily I can just fit 28mm tyres)
@@atilaj4446I agree! CAAD 10 & Tarmac SL2.
@@treygray2817. I hear ya’…I have a lot of bikes; my newest is 12 years old, my oldest is 40!
Of all the money I’ve spent on bikes and parts, my biggest regret was buying carbon rims for my rim brake bike. One one ride, I got an unexpected downpour. I knew to brake early to clear the water, but the braking performance (even with the Hunt-supplied pads) was so bad, I nearly continued into the path of a truck. But what nailed it for me was a long gnarly descent that requires heavy and almost continuous braking. I rode it on a hot day and realized that I had no idea if the rims were handling it fine, or were on the verge of melting and delaminating. Scary stuff.
I should have bought alloy climbing wheels for that bike. Carbon and discs are the better match.
I've had carbon wheels with rim brakes for years. Even though the brake track is well worn, I don't experience any problems in wet, dry, heat, cold.
@@tfj100 My wet braking performance is much better and more reliable with discs.
On most descents, I haven’t worried. Either they aren’t that long, or I was able to let the brakes breathe enough that I didn’t worry. One particular local descent goes on for miles, is steep and exposed, has tight corners, and has crappy pavement with marbles. People say, “you’re not supposed to ride the brakes”, but whenever I would let it roll a bit, it would just get hairier and I’d have to brake more aggressively. I made it down without problems, but that doesn’t mean much. Was I well within safety margins, or was I on the verge of a failure? The problem is that it’s unknowable, and a wheel failure there could send you to your death. Rather than enjoying the descent, it was worrying and stressful. Rim brakes and alloys wouldn’t have worried me, nor do discs.
Note that racers used rim brakes on tubular rims (and generally have better roads and risk higher speeds than I would.) We morals ride clinchers. With tubulars,the thickest part of the carbon is at the braking surface, and the pressure in the tire is contained. It’s not pressure on the rim. With clinchers, the braking surface is on the thin flanges of the wheel, and the 100psi or so is pushing those flanges outward. So, high heat, thin material, and high pressure, all in the same area. Bad combination.
On that descent, I took multiple breaks to let the rim cool. It’s disquieting, given that I would be unlikely to get any helpful feedback until the wheels fail or warp.
Not everyone has a descent like that in their backyard. I do, and I prefer to ride it without worry.
Two summers ago I blew up a tyre going on a long undulating downhill while on carbon rim-brake wheels on tubeless tyres. The rear rim got so hot from constant braking that once I locked it up on a fast descent, the tyre blew up. Needless to say I slid on the asphalt for about 10-15 metres resulting in a large road rash all over my left thigh, butt, and forearm ... and the frame was covered in sticky slime. These were quality Flo wheels with proprietary brake pads ... So, carbon rims and brake pads are not a good match ...
@@g.d.1722 This is exactly the risk. Rim brakes and carbon wheels are a good match until the split second they are not, and there’s no way to know that you’re reaching the limit until you’ve crossed it.
Glad you are okay, with injuries, but ones that that heal.
Swissstop black prince carbon pads are pretty good in the rain compared to other pads. Terrible compared to disc brakes obviously but they also perform as good as any brake system in the dry. They’re a bit expensive but you get what you pay for with brake pads
I just upgraded to carbon wheels 2 weeks ago. (Roval C38) . I don't have a power meter but I think I'm almost 1MPH faster. on my standard 20 mile ride. Where I notice it most is when I transition to going uphill, I don't get that "lag" feeling as I start up the hill. In other words, I feel like I don't lose momentum quite as rapidly. My bike is 4 years old now and though the wheels were expensive, $825 on sale, I feel like I'm getting the more out of my bike, so a thumbs up from me on the purchase.....a review by Dave being one reason I purchased the wheel set I did.
Exactly the same experience for me. My stock wheels felt like riding through treacle whenever the road pointed upwards. Getting lighter carbon wheels with better hubs mean I get further up the hill before running out of the speed I'm carrying, I can be a gear or two harder for the same speed, an I roll downhill a LOT faster. I routinely out-roll heavier riders even though I'm very tall but skinny and lightweight. No regrets.
What bike and wheels did you install the Roval 38s?
Here is a thought...the price of 2nd hand rim brake parts are high because they are still highly sort after, and people still want them no matter what pretty much all journalists say.
Always amazed at how much nicer these older bikes look with a set of modern carbon wheels. If that were my bike I’d probably have to keep the Hunt’s or find something similar! Cheers!
I miss my CAAD4!
Aliexpress waiting for you 😅
I think deep rims look ridiculous on any bike!
I complitly agree. I've got a Colnago super, Saronni red, steel frame from the 80's.. The thing was ugly until i buy 2017 Campagnolo Bora Ultra.. Now it is the best looking bike on earth
@@stuka78 explain please, Are those safe?
Don’t forget to swap the brake pads for carbon rims!!!
Don't do that, you'll go faster if you don't, because you won't slow down 🤔
Spot on my friend
@@peterquest6406 Right, my mistake
And be careful when descending in hot climates. Carbon wheels and rim brakes can get very hot which can result in your inner tube exploding and or even rim damage.
you guys acting like he hasn’t been cycling for years and years 😂
Hi David, thanks for an eye opening video. The Cannondale "Project" really shows what can be done on a budget, and for those that are on a budget. I've always believed the frame is the heart of a build or bike and peripherals can always be up graded. Your video must give encouragement to cyclists that struggle financially to achieve the best they can!
David is a true bikelover. Makes a quality youtube video about an 7 year old bike he bought himself. David, stay beeing a real bicycle enthusiast! Love from Germany ❤
Have you watched the video? He states otherwise. I find no reason to distrust him.
I think we are in agreement. Of course he is doing it for the views. It is his job! But he is not getting paid by Hunt to test these wheels, or by Cannondale to showcase this bike. He even made an effort to measure the objective improvement to the bike's performance, which is really nice.
@@veganpotterthevegan yes I am aware but its his job, content creator. Nothing shady about that. You work, you get paid...
We agree to disagree. Time to move on
I have a CAAD9 and you hurt my feelings
I upgraded my 9 year old canyon roadlite with 50mm carbon wheels. It was the best upgrade I ever did. They are 25mm wide and I run 28mm tires. The bike feeling is so much better and the comfort so much better. And people, I love the sound! The sound of speed every time I ride is still until today so motivating.
So... you can't really feel the difference in the weight, the performance numbers seem quite marginal, you get blown around in the wind, the hub noise is horribly annoying, and the braking surface is questionable... yet you say spending £1000 here is absolutely worth it? That seems like an absolutely ridiculous conclusion.
He said these weren't too bad. Besides, being blown around doesn't happen every ride. It rarely happens unless you live somewhere that is consistently very windy
@DaveCM In Kansas, windy days are the norm. Calm/light winds can be counted on 2 hands each year. This is probably the biggest thing that keeps me from carbon rims. A lot of people in Kansas have carbon. I just prefer not to have to wrestle with my steering
@@MomokahnLots of windy days in the UK, especially after a curry.
I just rebuilt my CAAD 9 with a complete 105 groupset and Ultegra wheelset. The CAAD frame is so well built, you can't see the welds. I've yet to see anything modern that's as nice
I recently grabbed a set of HED Jet6’s for my 5 year old bike and was amazed at how they kept speed over distances. My average speed on Strava went up by 3kmh. There could be some placebo in that though.
The biggest difference I noticed was the comfort. The wider 21mm internals dropped my pressures to 70 max which was huge.
More than anything they’re damn sexy and I feel a bit special out on the road ( but I’m not ) and they get me out on the road more often.
Love them
Great info. I just dusted off my 20 year old CAAD 7 bike and took it for a spin on one of my regular loops. Even with the ancient Mavic Kysriums on it I managed to beat my best time by a full seven minutes over ~60 km (compared to a 2022 Ribble CRG Ti on Hunt Gravel Race wheels with 30c tubeless tires). Something to be said for the old, stiff, lightweight bikes. To be honest I didn’t find the ride overly harsh on the old Al bike. I just might look into some new wheels for the old ride…
I’m a Cannondale guy since 2001, what a beautiful machine @David Arthur 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Just bought my dad's old felt z95 bike from 2014 and this series is inspiring me. For our flat roads, rim brakes are completely fine. Next will be new wheels for sure but don't think I'll splash out so much for carbon, just gonna get high end aluminum.
I'm so stoked that you keep making content on this bike, it is SO good looking. I had a CAAD10 back then and have always wanted to replace it with any CAAD model similar to it.
Glad you like them!
Every bike after the CAAD 12 is overdone. Its simplicity will never be outmatched.
@@veganpotterthevegan LMAO how do they perform better? they are not any stiffer and are def not lighter..... Jonas is still winning the tour by 7 minutes if he was riding this bike
@@veganpotterthevegan LMAO im not talking about a time trial, a bike frame has little to zero effect on actual aerodynamics the only thing worth a damn are the wheels and maybe handlebar to a small effect
@@veganpotterthevegan yes it makes no difference racing you are delusional if you think otherwise
I'm riding a very similar setup: 2018 series Caad13, also Ultegra but with Fulcrum Quattro carbon wheels for a couple of years now. And even after the bike has done 15k km easily, the combination is pretty spectacular, the alu frame is very stiff and not forgiving at all, but with the wheel combo it very rapid, hugely fast on pickup acceleration. With the carbon wheels it's not the most comfortable bike to put it mildly but a blast when punching. I'm running it with campa red brake pads which actually make the bike stop pretty well (but no disc comparison at all). This is a fun, very nimble and speedy bike on a relatively small budget...
Nice deep carbon aero wheels make any bike look pretty damn awesome! I love them on a nice classic Ti or steel frame! Adding new bits to my bike always makes me excited to ride more, and generally that will make you stronger and faster! And there’s the mental aspect… if you feel faster and stronger, does that translate to the road? And looks like the proof is in the riding!
Placebo gainz👍
Any classic Ti road you could recommend?
@@Kamiudalan1489 I should clarify, by classic I mean classically styled. Ribble seems a great brand and one am seriously looking at for my next bike.
@@originalkontrol looking at falkenjagd or lynskey at the moment
Yes I get that. I stopped spending $$$ on cycling stuff
I also stopped riding
2:31 you will destroy your expensive wheels by not using carbon specific brake pads. Also at 2:55 you can see that because those wheels are wo wide your pads are at horrible angle which will destroy your wheels even faster while not being able to slow you down properly.
I think it would be useful to upgrade to a decent alloy wheel set at a lot less cost and see what that improvement that does over the Mavics. I’ve done it on my CAAD8 to a JRA tubeless wheel-set (from Mavics) and the frame comfortably takes takes a 28mm tyres. I love riding it to the point my modern Enigma Etape is now coming out only for special occasions!
Great video Dave, keeping it real, well done. Would love to see the CAAD up against a high end modern “aero” frame set
I agree, i own a Caad 12 and went for Shamal Alloy c17 tubeless/28mm. Pirelli P Zero Evo, i have tried different carbon wheels and while bike felt a little faster i did like the look.
Afer watching this I have ordered the same wheels for my Giant TCR 2020 rim brake bike, upgrading from Mavic Ksyrium wheels. Cant wait to give them a go. Going to fit Conti GP500S TLR tyres. Thanks for making this David. Hunt should pay yousome commission!
I bought a 2011 fuji for $180. I convinced myself getting a new wheelset wasn't worth the cash, and I would end up buying a new bike that comes with nicer wheels. But I love working on this old bike. I can change the cables without taking the bar tape off... Once a good set of carbon wheels turn on on market place im pulling the trigger.
I’d say check out the win space Lun, elite marvel, or light bicycle. I’m looking at these for a 2011 Cérvelo myself 🤔
When I started racing as a 15 year old I was told by the club elders, if you want to improve performance the biggest improvement would be made by upgrading to the best wheels and tyres you can afford. Fifty odd years later that still applies yet the number of people I see on expensive machines who skimp on things like wheels and tyres amazes me.
@David Arthur what is your take on the CAAD 12 ? I started my cycling journey way back in 2000 / 2001 until the present & the only road bike I’ve owned were all Cannondales, starting with the CAAD 3, 4, 7, two CAAD 9’s, one CAAD 12, & now the Cannondale Synapse 2021 with the CAAD 7 and 12 My overall favorite of the CAAD series. Now since I no longer race and leaned to more of a comfort bike I decided to purchase my latest Endurance road bike the Cannondale Synapse, with no disappointment. But I can honestly say I love how the CAAD 12 handles nimbly and with punch ! So I’d love to hear what you think of this bike compared to other high end bikes. I’m also considering building a steel bike from scratch & hope you can do a review on a steel framed bike in the near future 👍🏽
I recommended a pair of Hunt Aero 35 wheels to my friend's wife. She absolutely loves them. The Bontrager Race lites she had were good, but she says these are way better. Myself, I replaced my Dura ace C25's with Ican 40 aero wheels. That was such an improvement, that I bought a second set of 45's for my Trek 6.5. Again, it was a big improvement over the Bontrager Paradigm Elites that came with the bike.
I've had Hunt carbons on mine. Bike frame is Columbus Spirit. They have been great but it's important to note that they are much more fragile than alloy wheels. The lanes in this video look very much like the lanes I ride on. My rear carbon Hunt started to delaminate - just in one area - I sent pics to Hunt who were very helpful and reckoned I was unlucky and this was likely a stone strike. The wheel was written off. I've replaced it with a Mavic Ksyrium which is about the same weight but much tougher. With carbons and rim brakes you also need to be careful with overheating. I'm still running the front Hunt so far OK.
In my experience testin by power is much easier than by speed. Speed always varies, it is much easier to hold constant power.
spent a couple of weeks riding my 2016 BMC carbon/ rim brake bike while the Aethos was in the LBS waiting for sram warranty parts and reminded myself how good it still is. Also remember the revalation when i bought my first set of deep aero wheels - Bontragers alloy with carbon fairing, perhaps a decade ago...and the light disappointment with early set of Hunts that replaced them about 6 years ago..now on Hypers and very happy with price/performance.
Bought the same bike and wheels for my girlfirend, and recently swapped the wheels for my Winspace Hyper 2023 R33 (1229g), with 28mm. P Zero Race and Pirelli TPU tubes (37g).
"You will never get these back", was her response after the first ride. 😅
I just scored a Giant Tcr for $550 rim brake , i honestly say used bikes are going up in price but u can find some great deals with rim brake bikes, the cost of disc brake bikes are so expensive and now rim brake bikes no longer being included in the newer models since everyone is going disc, your caad 12 looks awesome with the hunt wheels, i buy only rim brake bikes because they are a better value now, great video, thank you for doing this , Much love from California. ( if u dont want the wheels because it's a loud hub let me know i'll take them off your hands ) lol.
And now the new entry level disc bikes are mechanical and to get hydro you have to pay like $2k it's stupid.
Would love to see the comparison David 😊😃😃🚴🏻 I like rim brakes personally just my opinion
I use carbon wheels with rim brakes and the braking is as good as alloy. Ensure carbon-specific pads are being used with them.
This was with Hunt's own carbon-specific brake blocks and the braking was definitely not the same as alloy. I've never tested a carbon wheelset where the brakes felt as good as alloy imo
@@davidarthur I have four bikes with disc brakes from different brands and not one feels the same as another.
Shouldn't assume for one minute that carbon rim brakes are all the same.
David thank you so much for this series! I’ve been following closely as I have this exact model of bike!
Lately I’ve been getting that N+1 itch, especially with the TdF on but you’ve shown me some steps to take to make it feel new again, as mine is pretty much all stock.
Cheers from the states and keep up the great work!
Glad you like them!
Going tubeless probably gave the hunt wheels a 6-8 Watt advantage in rolling resistance. Possibly even more because of better vibration dampening.
Tubeless is pretty much the same rolling resistance as the same model clincher with a latex tube. Unlikely to see more than 6 watts or so against a pair of butyl tubes, at least at sensible speeds.
I think you are misinformed. Change to $5 Ridenow tpu inner tube, and you are getting the same performance as tubeless if not better.
@@williamko4751 Compared to the butyl inner tubes he was running.
@@veganpotterthevegan I didn't even check for the tires. I just assumed he used the same ones. That would render the test completely useless.
Very nice review. I used to run my previous carbon bike with rim brakes on Vision Alu-Carbon wheel. They are probably the right compromise to save some weight, improve the look and the aero and still have a very good and reliable break feeling…and they were expensive but way cheaper then full carbon wheel.
5:36 Why does the power decrease as speed is increased? Don't you need greater power to ride at greater speeds?
I was wondering this, myself. Put the numbers on there backwards, perhaps?
I have an aluminium road bike that I'm actually quite fond of; it's a great bike, no complaints. I did switch to a carbon wheelset from the alloy ones that came with the bike, and it made a big difference in terms of comfort and performance. However, switching to nicer tyres made at least as much of a difference as the wheels, and that change was significantly more cost-effective.
Also, I don't think rim brakes with carbon wheels are a good idea in wet conditions. If you live in an area with a lot of rain and you're committed to rim brakes, I would think twice about switching to carbon wheels.
That’s what’s puzzling to me. I get the impression that carbon wheels are really a bling factor. Also no matter how much I search for a comparison between disc brakes vs aluminum alloy rims for stopping. I hadn’t noticed any.
It would be interesting to look at how much of a difference wheel bearings make in your test. I would expect the new Hunts you tested had better bearings and fresher lubricant than the old Mavics. Just a thought.
The bearings will make no measurable difference.
I made this exact wheel swap on my same Ultegra equipped CAAD12 back in February, shaving a full 1lb (500 ish grams) in weight, but I bought the Hunt 36m deep wheels. Yes super loud hub. But I absolutely noticed the responsive difference, and love them. Now my total bike weight is a respectable 16.4 lbs.
I did the same with a 2015 aeroad with the same wheelset but upgrading from deep section Mavic's. These wheels are much better decenders beciase the profile is a more up to date U shape than the older V section which is scary as hell in a crosswind on a big descent. Agree also with the noisy hub, extra grease dampened the racket a bit - only a bit! 😮
The depth of the rims is a bit much for me.
Another more solid looking crankset would look awesome with this combination btw :)
I really liked the CAAD12 project. It seems like a perfect and affordable after work training horse :)
But this kind of upgrade seems out of line. Iam really happy that someone tested alu vs carbon wheelsets,
but buying carbon wheels with rimbrakes ... not on my Todo list.
So my upgrade path after the CAAD12 would be a bike with hydraulic breaks and than a good pair of carbon wheels.
Keep up the good work! cheers
How do you not like that beautiful crankset?
That is a good, light, and highly desired crankset. From what I hear it is not flimsy in any way
@@chuckyfox9284 The thick wheelsets and the wispy looking crankset do not compliment each other. In my opinion.
And I dont want to imply that the crankset is bad. I would just prefer a FC-R7000 looking next to the massiv carbonwheels.
@@BurgerTime7441 I didnt want to imply that it is bad in any way. I just would like, next to these huuge black wheelset, to see something like the FC-R7000. Also black and bold looking :)
@@veganpotterthevegan I didnt mean to imply that the cranks are bad. I just said that more heavy looking (black) cranks might look better with the deep wheelset.
I have similar wheels from Hunt. I agree with your assessment of the hub noise, it is like being chased by a swarm of angry wasps. I'd also agree that in dry conditions, they are definitely faster. However, once you introduce some rain, the terrible stopping distance carbon wheels provide means I have such little confidence in coming to a stop in time should an obstacle appear, that I end up riding quite a bit slower.
Disc brakes!?
Haven't watched the video yet BUT I can say the bike is better looking at least:)
i use 50 deep carbon superteam wheels from ebay for 400 a pair and i am loving them for the about 1000 miles ive put on them :)
Yes, please do a comparison video of this bike with a modern counterpart.
Will do :)
I did the same thing for an old 2016 Cube Attain GTC RACE that i had. I was running a set of shallow rimmed handbuilt hoops (DT Swiss RR440 with lower end Novatech hubs) for donkeys of years. Noticed one day that the rear wheel wasnt rolling straight so I took it down to the shop to have the wheels trued and thats when the mechanic there pointed out that the rim was cracked in multiple places.
I bought a pair of hunt Aero Wide super dura's just to get the bike back on the road (people complain about hunt using bad bearings but ive not had any problems) and through the winter, then picked up a set of 55mm carbon wheels earlier this year. Even if i didnt go any faster on it, it still *LOOKED* every bit as fast 😅
I dont have the same punchy acceleration on the 55mm wheels as i did on the hunt's but im able to cruise at much higher speeds and pretty effortlessly too. I'll probably pick up a 40 or 45mm later on and see how I fair with that instead. I originally had a choice between 45 and 55mm but i chose the 55 as most of the riding i do is on the flats. Probably very overkill for me as Im not a club rider either and only participate in endurance rides like the Dynamo two or three times a year but at least Ive got a fun and fast bike to zip around on for a few hours during the weekends
Horizontal top tubes…. We need more of them
If I were to change / upgrade my current wheelset, which are HED Ardennes SLs, for carbon wheels, I would def opt for the HUNT rim version like in this video. However the HED wheels I do have as mentioned, are quite high quality with top shelf hubs, ride is super smooth and so changing for the cost difference is a primary consideration. Good demo video DA. I would keep those.
You also need to change brakepads switching from alloy to carbon wheels right?
Lol, I have a 2019 CAAD12 105 Disc. It is amazing and at the time I had the chance to get a CAAD13 instead but just preferred the look and feel of the 12. I slapped some $800 Mavic Ksyriums on them from FB marketplace and am chuffed. I've been setting PR's up all the local mountains.
The dropout standard is the reason why I wouldn't pick a CAAD12 Disc. I'm OK with both brake types, but even if the CAAD12 Disc uses thru-axles on both the front and rear dropouts, I'd still take the rim brake version as it doesn't look right with disc brakes. 😅
Very keen to see a comparison with the CAAD12 and a new bike.. keep up the great work
I've upgraded my (Decathlon) Triban 520 with a 50mm deep rim brake carbon EliteWheels set, and they made the bike look so amazing it makes me wanna ride it, so yeah, I'd say it is definitely worth it!
Agreed the freehub is terribly loud on hunts, I have enough just tuning gears in the stand on customer bikes 😂
Braking on the hunts is crap but remember David not all wheels are equal a set of boras or zipp wheels will far out perform the hunts which use a low quality resin and also have no grooves in the tracks. Higher price of course but you pay for what u get sometimes.
Another great option of wheel is the Hed jet blacks a carbon wheel with an alloy GROOVED brake track imo the best braking you'll get on a road bike far better than a 160mm rotor without any downsides of using a carbon brake track
"the best braking you'll get on a road bike far better than a 160mm rotor without any downsides of using a carbon brake track" No.
I have two pairs of Dura-Ace wheels with aluminum brake-tracks, and carbon caps, and while they brake like a good alloy rim-brake wheelset (which is really what they are), they aren't even *close* to a decent 160mm hydraulic disc.
@@henseleric you've missed out an important part coping my statement 'GROOVED' .... your dura ace wheels while being alloy have a 'smooth' braking track... They are NOT grooved like the HEDs wheels 🤦♂️🤦♂️
I can only assume you've not used the HED JET wheels as you'd be aware of this 👍
I’d definitely like to see some comparison testing between the Cannondale with the Hunt wheels and a modern bike. Hopefully you will keep your position on each bike the same, similar power etc.
Yes David..please do that video comparing those bikes.
The difference made by upgrading the wheels is totally noticeable, speed, handling, rolling resistance. It makes a 50% difference according to my mechanic and although I was skeptical, after 2 years on my carbon wheels I can agree with him.
I bought a set of 62 mm carbon wheels for my old old GT bike recently and the look of it is stunning. Same with your Cannondale!
Definitely show a comparison between a new halo spec bike vs this project bike.
Cheers!
It certainly looks faster! Looks pretty amazing for my money.
Compare it with modern aero bike. I’m in that limbo right now.
Have a supersix 2016 rim and upgraded to hunt’s 50 mm. Live everything about my upgrade.
Now let’s see if a modern bine justifies the upgrade?
Thx for your great contents
The bike looks great with the hunts. Although a 2016 CAAD 12 isn’t an old bike to me 😊
I put Carbon Hunt 30s on my CAAD12. The improvements in ride quality alone are worth it.
Great video, I love the ones with the normal bikes that most of us ride.
Zipp 202/303/404 will make a huge difference! Awesome hubs!
Finally a bike YT vid I can relate to. Well done.
What about the brake pads?
I put Hunt Carbon Rim Brake wheels on my 2018 Giant TCR Advanced bought secondhand but unused last year. I call it N+1. It's bright orange too like your Cannondale. Great minds think alike!
HED Jet Black RC4 might be the middle ground
My Sworks SL5 with Vision's Metron 55 SL still fast and amazing. Yeah, that point you need to pay attention is about the rim brakes on wet conditions is not good.
Question is, how much do you enjoy riding the bike, especially vs some of the carbon ones you have. Dry weather, nice conditions, is it one you choose to take out?
80mm carbs on an older round tube format rim brake frame = modern aero bike only lighter, no real reason to drop 14k, and I like modern aero bikes, but from a budget/performance standpoint this is the way to go
Love my 2016 caad8. It's imo a perfect aluminum frame.
U.S-made?
I have a 2014 Focus Culebro, with a very similar configuration like this CAAD12 when I bought it. 9 years later I've finally could buy carbon wheels and it is incredibly faster
I've made the same upgrade on my 25 years old look 251 kg using a pair of ffwd carbon wheels and a used Shimano ultegra groupset. Very happy with the new "look"...not so happy with the overall comfort and the noise
great upgrade for an ancient bike!
other than riding in wind & rain... & the noise, dubious aesthetic, oh, & the $$$s.
CAAD 12 is one of my favorite looking frames. They don't make em like that anymore!!
Back when Cannondales were still nice. The first time I learned about Cannondale in the early 2010s, I always thought their bikes looked distinct from other brands.
Nowadays, I caught myself falling for their traditional double-diamond frame construction. Dropped seatstays have no place for bikes that want a little classic touch.
I always thought a coast distance test mat be a way to control the human variable. Coast the bike down a decline then measure the point the bike stops. Now, tire pressure is a variable, rider position, exact path, etc, but this could be a way of eliminating some variables.
I definitely don't ride to a target speed - I'll either ride to feel or heart rate, and then I'm interested to see what speed that achieves. Testing with a constant power then seeing what extra speed an upgrade gives you would be a better real-world testing scenario.
It's still down to the rider and how fit the rider is as they say it's not about the bike
Honestly, a lot of the wattage gained might be because of butyl inner tubes vs tubeless. Going to TPU or latex inner tubes alone saves around 10w at 30k/h. The expensive wheelset should be setup with the same tires and butyl tubes for a fair comparison.
The Mavic Aksiums are my go too budget wheelset, they've never let me down.
Lovely bike. I start appreciating wonderful clean rim break setups!
Great aspects for considering carbon wheels. Well done (I'm riding 30mm bontrager aeolus rim)
In my experience, since it's a proven strategy, equipping an older generation racing bike (15 years ago) with modern high-profile rims generally works: as you specified in your table, power watts are saved, therefore equal effort goes faster. However, I must point out that the bike, not being an aero-bike, with high-profile rims and in the presence of strong lateral or frontal winds, becomes quite difficult to ride, and you risk dangerously skidding, for example at high speeds when going downhill. So I suggest, on very windy days, to reassemble the old rims, out of caution.
Shallow wheels belong on the caad12. Some dura ace c24s or ksyrium slrs
45 mm is the deepest I'll go. 50 mm and deeper, too deep for this bike to look nice.
So you show that at faster speeds, regardless of the wheels used, you do less watts?
Just done the same with Zipp 303s on my aluminium Specialized Diverge.Comp E5. Got rid of those dreadful Axis Elites. Although it's a gravel bike i tend to use it more on roads, and the result with this new wheelset is v similar to your report here. Hill climbs feel far.more straightforward.
Love those bikes. My favorite would be a 2013 Carbondale Super six evo Hi mod team.
Quick question: why is the power at 30 kph higher than at 40 kph in all cases? Shouldn’t that be the other way round? Or did I misunderstand the data?
It's mainly because the road was 1% gradient up for the 30kph run and slight headwind, so faster on the return. That's the challenge of real world testing when you have to deal with roads that aren't perfectly level or there's wind about
Did this 5 years ago to one of my ali bikes. They lasted less than a year, rims wore so thin that they were dangerous. I would never use deep rim carbon wheels on anything other than a disc bike now. I love them and have them on my plastic weekend warrior but never again on a calliper brake....just chucking £1,000 down the drain. look good though...for the 10 months that I could use them
That Cannondale looks gorgeous with the hunt wheelset give me that bike over anything today great content David.
did the same to my entry level bicycle, best money i ever spend, now without doubt its a super bike
Looks fantastic with the deep section wheels.
Am I right though that the rolling resistance of the tires alone can make an immense difference?
It's not a completely incorrect assumption.
@@yonglingng5640 it's a lot better than that
Bought a pair of carbon wheels off ali express for less than 1/2 of what those Hunts go for. I've put at least 1500K on them with no issues. I did do a bit of research before buying them but you can get quality wheels for a very good price if you do your homework.
40 kph runs required less power? Were these done on different days?
BTW did you change the pads?
Wind direction perhaps? Or a slight incline.
There's a profile for those 40 kmph laps, it is negative 0,5-2
Deep wheels hold speed better over 30-40 km/h that’s why on 40 need less power
@@gabrielfernandeztattoos Even if this were true, the increase in his bodies air resistance should far outweigh this.
@@JibbaJabber is all about physics
Thanks for your nice video !
I did the same thing on my 6 years old bike and I just regret that I didn't do that sooner for 2nd hand Campagnelo Bora One 50 wheels !
The difference is amazing but it's clearly braking less efficiently specially on rainy conditions ⚠
excellent breakdown, David. I have a CAAD10 from 2011. and still ride it hard. LOVE this bike. i have Mavic alloy wheels and popped a spoke on last climb. I still ride w/ rim brakes and tubes. Can I order the HUNT carbon wheels with tubes? also, were you on the HUNT 62 or HUNT 82? and big difference other than price? you did highlight I'm going to lose some braking w/ calipers. Thanks again! im subbed now
Did the same upgrade with my 2008 caad8 with Hed 60mm wheelset. I don't use them all the time.