After two days of aligning mirrors - verticality was still an issue! I never thought of my bed being tilted....omg!! This video SAVED ME!!! TY Robert! you are a master teacher - so methodical - so easy to follow because you SHOW everything you talk about! So key to good training. I'm soooooo grateful!
I have been preaching about this for over a year now. The OEM mentions the machine/bed level yet they fail to mention the importance of parallelism between the gantry and bed. Another great video Robert!
Thanks for another great video. This has been my problem for quite some time and didn't know how to fix the issue. Your videos are always well done and simple to follow. More so than any other person I have found doing video's on lasers. It helps even more that I am also a Thunder Laser user, so your advice always fits my exact needs.
Thank you! Tomorrow I am going to test this. It’s exactly the problem I am having, and I suspected from the start it was a misalignment of the bed and gantry. Bless you!
Always learn something from you. I’ve come in here to find your video on making the small adjustments to my camera in lightburn to get my camera set perfect, and stumbled on this first. I’ve never tested my bed. I’ll continue watching this then find the video I’m looking for.
Thanks for the great video on adjusting the laser bed. It made it a very easy task compared to my boss laser. I am the new owner of Nova 35/100 just wanted to mention to you and your viewers that too also check the center of the back and front rails as well. My four corners were perfect but the center of the bed was sagging. I was able to adjust the sag🎉 by leaving the corners screws tight. and pushing up on the adjusting rail in the center. Thanks again for the great video.
Great video, helped me out with the rails. I used it to determine that the back left corner was low with the rails. Fixed that, then put the honeycomb in and the front was low (same in both corners). Drove me nuts trying to figure it out. Nothing warped or off with the honeycomb. After looking at everything I discovered that the rails are just a tad shorter than the width of the honeycomb. So I decided to flip the honey comb over with alignment pins up and center the comb on the rails, now the front was a tad to high. pushed the comb fwd a little so it just a bit of the comb frame rested on the back end of the rails and it was dead on. Turns out my alignment pins were setting the comb to far FWD and the comb frame in the back had a slight bulge where it rested on the rails. My fix was to take the pins off and put them in the holes get the honeycomb aligned so it was even side to side and along the front, and level at all four corners. Then put a dab of CA glue on flat of the pin and raise it up to the honeycomb, hit it with some accelerator. Very carefully take it out and mark around the pins then put the screws back in. I was lucky as the holes were pretty close, so I only had to move the pin a little left or right (not FWD or back). Put the comb back in and rechecked and it was spot on. There is a lot of adjustment in the pins, but I couldn't get it right with the screws in as the pins kept moving and I didn't have that patience. Pretty sure this is going to fix some of my issues. Thank you sir.
Good video! There is an assumption by users that the machine's frame is flat and parallel. That is not a given, especially considering that almost all laser machines are made in China. Even if the machine was properly constructed and inspected before shipping, there is no guarantee that the frame remains flat and parallel during shipping.
Yes, I find allot of honeycomb bed not to be parallel with the gantry. But yet the machine is level. Two completely different things. Thanks for watching
Great video...thanks! That said, I am kind of amazed that this is not corrected with built-in adjustable leveling pins/legs or something else that doesn't require the use of a Boatswain Wrench (my Coast Guard/Navy friends will know what I mean ;) ).
I use the left and right arrows on the control panel to run the red light back and forth on the top of my material to ensure it’s parallel with the gantry.
Wow, thank you. This was really informative. Do you have any tips for stopping laser bounce back from the honeycomb cutting into the back of the wood/project? Seems to happen the most with thin woods such as 1/8th. Elevating the wood helps, but not enough.
@@computercreationz Thank you. I was hoping for something else, but that probably is the way to go. Small pieces and all. Time to stock up on more tape.
Another great video! Thanks. I remember you showing how to move the laser to the center of a circle using Lightburn, but I cant find the video. Help please? 😉
I’ve noticed the middle of my honeycomb bed is sagging 1-2mm, but the four corners and slates are level with the laser head. I’m not sure what to do with that. 😢
you don’t have slats that go underneath the honeycomb? most larger lasers have that. if not it will greatly negatively effect your results due to change of focus.
I may have missed something in an earlier video, but would this process work if you find the honeycomb is the problem? If the slats show perfect, it must mean the honeycomb is slightly warped. I don't see how to square it up, so I'm thinking the slats fix you show here would be done to get the honeycomb where it needs to be?
It means that your honeycomb is sagging. Do you have slats underneath? This is a problem because your focus is constantly changing when cutting or engraving accross your honeycomb. I would see what you can do to flatten it out. Use a 4’ level
A good video, but one observation / comment: "... a simple piece of wood that is nice and flat and true ...." -- LOL -- In actuality, there is no such animal - that is, unless you want to pay 'big bucks' for the wood, or have your won equipment to flatten and true-up the wood.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 76 | คู่เอก "ผึ้งหลวง vs สมิงดำ"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9SBshmGQOIM/mqdefault.jpg)
After two days of aligning mirrors - verticality was still an issue! I never thought of my bed being tilted....omg!! This video SAVED ME!!! TY Robert! you are a master teacher - so methodical - so easy to follow because you SHOW everything you talk about! So key to good training. I'm soooooo grateful!
Great to hear from you Kelly, so glad this helped
Explained the process beautifully. Thank you. Now I am on to check my own like this.
Wonderful!
I have been preaching about this for over a year now. The OEM mentions the machine/bed level yet they fail to mention the importance of parallelism between the gantry and bed. Another great video Robert!
Thank you for your comments
Thanks for another great video. This has been my problem for quite some time and didn't know how to fix the issue. Your videos are always well done and simple to follow. More so than any other person I have found doing video's on lasers. It helps even more that I am also a Thunder Laser user, so your advice always fits my exact needs.
I really appreciate the comments, thank you very much!
Thank you! Tomorrow I am going to test this. It’s exactly the problem I am having, and I suspected from the start it was a misalignment of the bed and gantry. Bless you!
thanks for the comment good luck on your issue
Always learn something from you. I’ve come in here to find your video on making the small adjustments to my camera in lightburn to get my camera set perfect, and stumbled on this first. I’ve never tested my bed. I’ll continue watching this then find the video I’m looking for.
the bed not being parallel with you camera will through it off as well.
Thanks for the great video on adjusting the laser bed. It made it a very easy task compared to my boss laser. I am the new owner of Nova 35/100 just wanted to mention to you and your viewers that too also check the center of the back and front rails as well. My four corners were perfect but the center of the bed was sagging. I was able to adjust the sag🎉 by leaving the corners screws tight. and pushing up on the adjusting rail in the center. Thanks again for the great video.
great input thank you!
Great video, helped me out with the rails. I used it to determine that the back left corner was low with the rails. Fixed that, then put the honeycomb in and the front was low (same in both corners). Drove me nuts trying to figure it out. Nothing warped or off with the honeycomb. After looking at everything I discovered that the rails are just a tad shorter than the width of the honeycomb. So I decided to flip the honey comb over with alignment pins up and center the comb on the rails, now the front was a tad to high. pushed the comb fwd a little so it just a bit of the comb frame rested on the back end of the rails and it was dead on. Turns out my alignment pins were setting the comb to far FWD and the comb frame in the back had a slight bulge where it rested on the rails. My fix was to take the pins off and put them in the holes get the honeycomb aligned so it was even side to side and along the front, and level at all four corners. Then put a dab of CA glue on flat of the pin and raise it up to the honeycomb, hit it with some accelerator. Very carefully take it out and mark around the pins then put the screws back in. I was lucky as the holes were pretty close, so I only had to move the pin a little left or right (not FWD or back). Put the comb back in and rechecked and it was spot on. There is a lot of adjustment in the pins, but I couldn't get it right with the screws in as the pins kept moving and I didn't have that patience. Pretty sure this is going to fix some of my issues. Thank you sir.
having a warped honeycomb is not good. smart move!
Thank you, I'll try this out. It's been driving me nuts.
once you fix this it’s a game changer
Thank you. I would never think to check this.
I appreciate your comment
Good video! There is an assumption by users that the machine's frame is flat and parallel. That is not a given, especially considering that almost all laser machines are made in China. Even if the machine was properly constructed and inspected before shipping, there is no guarantee that the frame remains flat and parallel during shipping.
Yes, I find allot of honeycomb bed not to be parallel with the gantry. But yet the machine is level. Two completely different things. Thanks for watching
@@computercreationz That's true. The frames of the honeycombs are prone to warpage during the welding process.
Great video...thanks! That said, I am kind of amazed that this is not corrected with built-in adjustable leveling pins/legs or something else that doesn't require the use of a Boatswain Wrench (my Coast Guard/Navy friends will know what I mean ;) ).
that’s can be problematic as well. thanks for watching
Great info .. thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks!
Thank you for your contribution I really appreciate it!
Great video and very helpful. What do you use to align your material so it’s consistently parallel, horizontally and vertically to the laser head?
I use the left and right arrows on the control panel to run the red light back and forth on the top of my material to ensure it’s parallel with the gantry.
Thank you!
Thanks
thank you so much for the contribution. I really appreciate it!
Wow, thank you. This was really informative. Do you have any tips for stopping laser bounce back from the honeycomb cutting into the back of the wood/project? Seems to happen the most with thin woods such as 1/8th. Elevating the wood helps, but not enough.
removing the honeycomb and use the slats or elevate your work at least 1;4”
@@computercreationz Thank you. I was hoping for something else, but that probably is the way to go. Small pieces and all. Time to stock up on more tape.
Another great video! Thanks.
I remember you showing how to move the laser to the center of a circle using Lightburn, but I cant find the video. Help please? 😉
goto me channel and it’s under shorts, it won’t let me provide a link
@@computercreationz thank you!
I’ve noticed the middle of my honeycomb bed is sagging 1-2mm, but the four corners and slates are level with the laser head. I’m not sure what to do with that. 😢
you don’t have slats that go underneath the honeycomb? most larger lasers have that. if not it will greatly negatively effect your results due to change of focus.
@@computercreationz I do have slats. Those are flat. For some reason the honeycomb dips in the middle even over the slats. 🤷♂️
I may have missed something in an earlier video, but would this process work if you find the honeycomb is the problem? If the slats show perfect, it must mean the honeycomb is slightly warped. I don't see how to square it up, so I'm thinking the slats fix you show here would be done to get the honeycomb where it needs to be?
dealing with a tweaked honeycomb is very problematic.
What's it mean if my 4 corners are in spec but the middle isn't? Thanks!
It means that your honeycomb is sagging. Do you have slats underneath? This is a problem because your focus is constantly changing when cutting or engraving accross your honeycomb. I would see what you can do to flatten it out. Use a 4’ level
How to clean honey comb... And which is better to clean using chemicals or please suggest to me...
I use La totally awesome from the dollar store that and a scrub brush rinse with water. Do this often to keep the job easier
@@computercreationz thank you sir
@@computercreationz sir on more doubt.... After cutting fabric cloth it's come full white colour why
the yellow lab won me
Lol, she’s a keeper. Thanks for the comment
A good video, but one observation / comment: "... a simple piece of wood that is nice and flat and true ...." -- LOL -- In actuality, there is no such animal - that is, unless you want to pay 'big bucks' for the wood, or have your won equipment to flatten and true-up the wood.
lol, you are right about that!