2:59 I’ve had this issue before. It’s usually temp or speed or both. Different speeds and temperatures can affect whether you get a shiny or matte finish so this was probably done with more cooling or speed will drop by a percentage based on overhang angle. Gold is probably the worst colour for this effect but it happens a lot on black prints too.
In your slicer you can toggle different display filters. Cycle through and see which parameter data shows the exact pattern you see in the model. I have seen this issue due to major shifts in flow / print speed. There is a potential that slow flow rates bay be changing the melt inside the nozzle changing the appearance of the material.
Your Moai lines are happening any time there is a large overhang which is slowing down the speed on those overhangs. It probably heats the filament coming into the nozzle more before it completes the rest of the line, causing the color difference. The main two ways to reduce that issue are going to be increasing overhang speed closer to your outer wall speed and turning on the setting "Don't slow down for outer walls" in your filament settings. Obviously overhangs still need to slow down a bit to come out clean, but you can probably get closer. You can also slow your outer wall speed a little to closer to the overhang speed to try to get even more of an overall match. This issue is most pronounced on silk filaments.
Your PETG filament is wet. For the gold silk filament, try bumping them temp up 10°. Silk PLA likes to be printed hot, it'll give you a more silk texture, and should help make it more uniform.
sounds like a great idea. I'm a bit thorn for my channel. Do I split one for the tabletop terrain and another for commission functional product. same with a store split for each. Looking forward to seeing how it goes for you. I still have a long way to go for the functional commission, so not ready to do it, but not sure if I should start and cross fingers.
I was going to say the same thing. I had that problem yesterday too and it was due to speed. I adjusted the speed settings in the slicer and it fixed my issue.
Just a suggestion - for that PETG, I'd use a filament dryer to feed into the Elegoo. It'll be a long ass bowden tube (they make them - Capricron tubes!)...but I find so many minor defects go away when I feed material directly from the filament dryer into the 3D printer. My fails have gone down a ton, saving me filament and time - can't say hair - that left me a while ago!
@ each material should have a TDS (Technical Data Sheet) advising on drying temps and times. Generally, 65C for PETG and 4 hours or more The EIBOS dryers are my favorite (Polyphemus can do two 1 kg spools. They sell an upgrade kit that makes it taller , so you could use those Polymaker 3kg spools)
those lines are weird there shouldnt of been a major change speed anywhere in that model so not sure why that happened maybe a problem with the color at those parts in the filament... what brand of filament is it?
Glad to hear you have a plan. I did the same too with Etsy. Since I have another company I did a separate shop. I think it’s a smart thing to do. It does seem to be more work though. That gamer model is super cool. Love how that turned out. Again thanks for sharing.
I started a 2nd store just for things I don't want represented on my main store and I hardly use it, its a chore just to have to login to the second store to check on it. I think its better just to focus on the main store. My advice would be to just keep the NSFW stuff for your own collections and focus on functional things if your main goal is to scale.
Remember that glow in dark fillament is really brutal for nozzle(just like pla with wood or with metal), so after few prints propably you should replave nozzle in printer..
Do you have a camera on the printer where the Moai had the layer lines? If so, a video might turn up something happening at those layers. Adding a cheap temperature and humidity sensor into the frame of view also might show something. Like the various color Moai but in case you don't already know, glow-in-the-dark filament can be rough on brass nozzles. Just something to factor in when printing them.
so i did a couple prints that were supposed to be multi color and did some painting... frik that crap... i'll take the filament loss.. i'm not patient enough to paint like that... so it's back to the filament waste for me.
For the love of god dry the bloody PETG before you cause us OCD printer nerds to commit hari-kiri. The silk is probably caused by a speed change when it starts doing an overhang section - someone else commented about increasing the temp to give it even more of a silky look and hopefully more uniform across the overhang areas - do a test section with overhang until you get some settings that work.
How long do I need to keep it in the dryer before printing? Those car parts were something like 2-3k IIRC. So I need to bake the filament for a day before even starting the print? Seems to have come out OK
@@TechnicalsTinkers 3-4 hours at 60 deg will probably drive most of the moisture out. If you've got some accurate digital scales ( the ones you use for weighing your gold stash ) you can do a weight check before and after to see if any moisture has been driven out, if the weight doesn't change then you can assume the filament was dry... and moisture is not the problem.
I hate post production just as much as you do although the biggest mistake i see most people make is they do not let the printer do the work for them, its all about how fast can i make this and how soon can i get the next print going. SLOW down your print speeds let the printer do the work for you . For silk more then anything , check the filament roll you are printing with and at the very least match the outer layer speed to your filament recommendation and i promise you will see a world of difference on every silk print you do ( you will even see a world of difference with every filament you use if you slow down your outer layer, although i do not really slow down outer except for silks most of the time). i have 2 kobra max's and a vyper and a bambu it sucks that the bambu can run circles around the anycubic (speed wise) but even the bambu needs to slow down for silk prints to the recommended settings of the filament manufacture to get the proper shine and look. try it you will like it and i doubt you will get that banding as you have on your moai. oh and im one of those guys that like longer videos btw.
Splitting your shop does not make sense. You will get arguably more traffic with one shop especially when you already have reviews and sales on your current one.
the prob with the people who think the character model people need to burn in hell are they are the biggest hypocritical people I've ever met they just need to live their life and let everyone else live theirs life is to short to be trying to control how everyone lives like who gives af what someone likes or buys like man get a grip
2:49 it’s the flow rate changing through the model
2:59 I’ve had this issue before. It’s usually temp or speed or both. Different speeds and temperatures can affect whether you get a shiny or matte finish so this was probably done with more cooling or speed will drop by a percentage based on overhang angle. Gold is probably the worst colour for this effect but it happens a lot on black prints too.
In your slicer you can toggle different display filters. Cycle through and see which parameter data shows the exact pattern you see in the model. I have seen this issue due to major shifts in flow / print speed. There is a potential that slow flow rates bay be changing the melt inside the nozzle changing the appearance of the material.
"Degen Prints" is a great store name for the sexy and gun stuff, hahaha. I bet you could make money with furry stuff too.
Fuzzy skin setting at 0.1 skin thickness and 0.25 skin point distance gives a great outside texture also helps hide in perfections
Check to see if you have "slow down for overhangs" enabled in your slicer
Your Moai lines are happening any time there is a large overhang which is slowing down the speed on those overhangs. It probably heats the filament coming into the nozzle more before it completes the rest of the line, causing the color difference. The main two ways to reduce that issue are going to be increasing overhang speed closer to your outer wall speed and turning on the setting "Don't slow down for outer walls" in your filament settings. Obviously overhangs still need to slow down a bit to come out clean, but you can probably get closer. You can also slow your outer wall speed a little to closer to the overhang speed to try to get even more of an overall match. This issue is most pronounced on silk filaments.
Check print speeds from silcer. I have noticed silk differences due to heat and or speed. Clear filaments, too.
The lines are for sure because it has most acceleration there.
Your PETG filament is wet.
For the gold silk filament, try bumping them temp up 10°. Silk PLA likes to be printed hot, it'll give you a more silk texture, and should help make it more uniform.
the PETG prog not the temp its more likely the retraction settings
sounds like a great idea. I'm a bit thorn for my channel. Do I split one for the tabletop terrain and another for commission functional product. same with a store split for each. Looking forward to seeing how it goes for you. I still have a long way to go for the functional commission, so not ready to do it, but not sure if I should start and cross fingers.
those lines will probably be print speed and/or cooling. You need to look at the model in the slicer preview to see the changes.
I was going to say the same thing. I had that problem yesterday too and it was due to speed. I adjusted the speed settings in the slicer and it fixed my issue.
Yep, redid the model the next day at static speed and it resolved it!
drying my petg has been a game changer. I even weigh the spool before and after drying lol
Bro your an inspiration. Love the content. 👌✌
New subscriber, just got my first job and wanna buy a 3d printer now so keen to see more content 😁💪
Grats! If it's your first job put money in the SP500 and forget about printing!
Thank me in 40 years
Just a suggestion - for that PETG, I'd use a filament dryer to feed into the Elegoo. It'll be a long ass bowden tube (they make them - Capricron tubes!)...but I find so many minor defects go away when I feed material directly from the filament dryer into the 3D printer. My fails have gone down a ton, saving me filament and time - can't say hair - that left me a while ago!
How long does it need to dwell in the dyer before printing?
@ each material should have a TDS (Technical Data Sheet) advising on drying temps and times. Generally, 65C for PETG and 4 hours or more The EIBOS dryers are my favorite (Polyphemus can do two 1 kg spools. They sell an upgrade kit that makes it taller , so you could use those Polymaker 3kg spools)
Thanks for sharing brother, learning each episode ... cheers
Lines are speed changes
those lines are weird there shouldnt of been a major change speed anywhere in that model so not sure why that happened maybe a problem with the color at those parts in the filament... what brand of filament is it?
You have the parameters right on the Giga, lets see if there is string tomorrow. The extruder fan speed might be messing up your petg prints.
when you make your new etsy can you put them in your next vid
Glad to hear you have a plan. I did the same too with Etsy. Since I have another company I did a separate shop. I think it’s a smart thing to do. It does seem to be more work though. That gamer model is super cool. Love how that turned out. Again thanks for sharing.
I started a 2nd store just for things I don't want represented on my main store and I hardly use it, its a chore just to have to login to the second store to check on it. I think its better just to focus on the main store. My advice would be to just keep the NSFW stuff for your own collections and focus on functional things if your main goal is to scale.
That was different. Love to see how this works out. All the best.
Remember that glow in dark fillament is really brutal for nozzle(just like pla with wood or with metal), so after few prints propably you should replave nozzle in printer..
With silk temperature changes and speed changes cause the color and texture change
Do you have a camera on the printer where the Moai had the layer lines? If so, a video might turn up something happening at those layers. Adding a cheap temperature and humidity sensor into the frame of view also might show something.
Like the various color Moai but in case you don't already know, glow-in-the-dark filament can be rough on brass nozzles. Just something to factor in when printing them.
So i'm about 5 days ahead at this point, but I re-did the model at static speed and it prettty much nuked the issue!
Got the big decor energy.
On vacation but here 😂
Got vaca next month myself. Enjoy it!
@ first time in 30 years spending Christmas in Dom Rep with the family.. enjoy your holidays and vacation Matt
so i did a couple prints that were supposed to be multi color and did some painting... frik that crap... i'll take the filament loss.. i'm not patient enough to paint like that... so it's back to the filament waste for me.
I just want to make sure you're not throwing that waste in the garbage. Make sure to throw it directly into the nearest ocean
@@TechnicalsTinkers lolol
nice to see you change gears.... didn't know there was a market for the larger stuff tho..
Im not even sure there is
Glow in the dark is going to wreck your brass nozzles… it is abrasive!
Nozzle abuse test
For the love of god dry the bloody PETG before you cause us OCD printer nerds to commit hari-kiri. The silk is probably caused by a speed change when it starts doing an overhang section - someone else commented about increasing the temp to give it even more of a silky look and hopefully more uniform across the overhang areas - do a test section with overhang until you get some settings that work.
How long do I need to keep it in the dryer before printing? Those car parts were something like 2-3k IIRC. So I need to bake the filament for a day before even starting the print? Seems to have come out OK
@@TechnicalsTinkers 3-4 hours at 60 deg will probably drive most of the moisture out. If you've got some accurate digital scales ( the ones you use for weighing your gold stash ) you can do a weight check before and after to see if any moisture has been driven out, if the weight doesn't change then you can assume the filament was dry... and moisture is not the problem.
I hate post production just as much as you do although the biggest mistake i see most people make is they do not let the printer do the work for them, its all about how fast can i make this and how soon can i get the next print going. SLOW down your print speeds let the printer do the work for you . For silk more then anything , check the filament roll you are printing with and at the very least match the outer layer speed to your filament recommendation and i promise you will see a world of difference on every silk print you do ( you will even see a world of difference with every filament you use if you slow down your outer layer, although i do not really slow down outer except for silks most of the time). i have 2 kobra max's and a vyper and a bambu it sucks that the bambu can run circles around the anycubic (speed wise) but even the bambu needs to slow down for silk prints to the recommended settings of the filament manufacture to get the proper shine and look. try it you will like it and i doubt you will get that banding as you have on your moai. oh and im one of those guys that like longer videos btw.
My man, many thanks
Splitting your shop does not make sense. You will get arguably more traffic with one shop especially when you already have reviews and sales on your current one.
People pull up for electronic widgets and see booba dolls I dont' see them converting sales! we'll find out though. my test is your gain!
How do u spell artist term glamour girl ? Maybe glamore girl . Whatever
Glammur?
6:04 unsubscribed due to the clickbait titles and whining. The channel was better when you were optimistic and genuine.
the prob with the people who think the character model people need to burn in hell are they are the biggest hypocritical people I've ever met they just need to live their life and let everyone else live theirs life is to short to be trying to control how everyone lives like who gives af what someone likes or buys like man get a grip
Slow outer wall to 40mm/s to keep outer wall consistent
Not subscribing, just here to point out that the shirt is too tight.
I'm going tighter
@@TechnicalsTinkers rofl
@@TechnicalsTinkersShirts never tight enough
Bet you won’t
Going to baby Gap RIGHT NOW