I did have the same issue as you with some filaments, including silks, but the problem was the spools' sizes, not the filaments per se. The stock AMS seems to only like the Bambu spools and other brands (like Sunlu and some other chinese ones) are a bit small for it. I at first switched to the Hydra AMS mod, then went for the Python one. The latter actually allowed me to run 250 gram spools, as well as cardboard and different size plastics spools. I've used it for over a month and have not had any alerts due to filament getting stuck. Hope this helps!
Obviously too late for this year but for next Christmas season, making Giga sized Lego pine trees that people could use as contemporary Christmas tree could be nice. If you could design it with clips or holes to accommodate string lights, that's even better. Trees are Lego part numbers 3471 and 2435.
P1S AMS check your filament guide, it will most likely be oval shaped from wear since you use a lot of matte pla. You can get just the first stage feeder inner part, 10 minute swap over. Recommend getting AMS Savers, basically uses PTFE before the entry hole to line up the filament so it goes in straight
for models that are not perfectly flat, in the slicer you can drop it slightly into the plate and level it off, most of the time when i do this its less than a mm in depth
If you blew out a ptfe tube in the exit of the ams the tubes under the ams are most likely worn also. When these start to wear they get a grove in them and start causing resistance - which leads to failure to feed and retract. The ams comes with a spare precut set of internal ptfe tubes. I suggest swapping them. These can last a while or go really fast depending on the abrasive level of the material your printing.
Yeah I think the different colored and shiny large objects is a good idea. As for something huge that is Lego, perhaps furniture? An end table or a chair? I know those designs may not already exist though. Could have them commissioned in some way that is cute and still able to be sat on without the bumps digging into someone's butt.
I’ve had more troubles with silk PLA than any other color, from jamming in the nozzle to just mystery stopping in the feed tube. After a few machines I just stopped even using it for anything. Due to running a print farm and I cannot have down time in production I am careful with whose products I’m using.
I'm working on 3d printed blanks that I can then finish with an engrave or other printed part at like a craft show or flea market, I really want to go to one in 2025
It be neat to make a stupid over sized Pikachu on the giga but multipart, like 5ft tall etc. Something where you would need a pallet to ship it at a premium of course. It could be considered an art piece. Full size ballon dog on the giga in red would be neat too. Great content and ty again!
Of my 5 ender v3se printers I've never had problems printing silk..55 on my bed temp 218 on the nozzle.i use inland from microcenter..now glitter stuff on a .04 nozzle..ugh...
Same here, Inland silk has never let me down. It's just a matter of learning the correct settings for your particular printer. A few hours of running some small test objects is invaluable.
clearly you have a higher risk tolerance than I do when it comes to selling products relating to Nintendo and Disney. I've seen too many posts from sellers who lost their entire store because of tm and copyright violations. As for the creator that makes big models in this space.... I hope you have better luck printing them than I did. Printed the giant Bluey for my granddaughter. It was the worst split model to assemble that I've ever printed.
I use strictly Giantarm silk filament. I make several models that when at shows people pickup and are shocked how light they are because they thought they were metal. I made a Lombardi trophy for a friends fantasy draft league that came out perfect. I have tried other silk and keep coming back to it.
You need to get vision miner adhesive... works great you will not have these build plate issues...I promise...I'm not a sales person for them... I just use it and it's great 👍 👌
I agree the nano adhesive is nice for some filament and buildplate combinations. But it does a white film on the bottom that doesn't always disappear with a heat gun
People get away with printing UP all the time but the consequences are extreme when you deal with Nintendo, Disney and Games Workshop... you are fooling yourself if you think they do not go after shops and individuals. Personally, my business is not worth the risk. At the least, you will likely lose your Etsy shop(s). The worst is they crush you to make an example. You are generally correct about big companies, but these are specific companies that have lawyers on retainer specifically for chasing IP offenders, they get paid to stop infringement, if they don't produce results, they don't get paid so when the big infringers are caught or in those slow times, they will definitely go after the little fish... lots of fish always get away, but you don't want to be the one that gets hooked.
Disney and Nintendo do send cease and desists for people that sell their IP. It’s not sweeping across the board, but it does happen randomly. Etsy will also shut down stores if they get these notices. Again, not across the board, but it does happen. So it’s a risk. But be aware they DO come after individual schmucks and not the platform.
Etsy isn't going to be liable for failing to police its users. No one has successfully sued an internet publisher for failing to police its content unless the publisher was blatantly allowing criminal behavior, à la Napster, GrooveShark, The Pirate Bay.
I'm a few days ahead on videos so my thinking is to launch a 5k giveaway within a couple weeks. Use the promo to build subs faster but give away something like an A1 mini combo. Need to find a way to give regular (actual) viewers a better shot than just the giveaway seekers
@TechnicalsTinkers you could put codes In the videos building up to the giveaway. That way the people who really watch the videos could get a couple more entries.
i know you are having issues with silk, so ill give my 2 cents (these are my successes at silk, obviously you will have tons of other opinions). we use the same printers and i print almost primarily in silk. first, i mentioned in the past bambu needs to print outer wall at 40 mm/s or less to have a consistent shine. as far as your issues with ams i am yet to have that problem but i try and consistently use the same filaments that i have success with. I did some tests early on on my kobra maxs and found that Flashforge and CC3D have done the best as far as single color silk filaments (Mika3D has also been good to me but rarely use it). My Bambu printer with ams does very well with those filaments. also again i have yet to have issues with ams but they are not cardboard spools. I have had serious complications with Bambu white silk, I bought it thinking it would be good since its there brand , NOPE. They have since discontinued that line of silk and i am yet to try there new silk line. with that being said i think the issue you are having is brand more then the printer or ams. also when your rolls are getting low use a spool weight. i use one i designed when my spools get to about 25% or less, this will keep your spools more stable when they retract. if you want to try the spool weights you can look it up under user name FIERCEWOLF "spool weight universal for most spools".
40mm/s? I print 150-250 on my Plus4 and get very shiny prints. Need to keep outer wall speed consistent and make sure you aren't hitting max flow rate cap of course.
@@802Garage as i said in my original post "these are my successes at silk" if you are happy with your crappy shine you go ahead and print at what ever speed you want. Its obvious you have not read your recommended print speeds on your silk filaments. lets use Bambus new silk pla + as an example here is a direct quote from there site "Cautions for Use: lower the outer wall speed to 50 mm/s for the best gloss". My filaments that i use are rated at 40mms and achieve a shine i would expect. so yes 40mm/s and if you are happy with a crappy shine you do you boo.
@802Garage as i said in my original post "these are my successes at silk" if you are happy with your crappy shine you go ahead and print at what ever speed you want. Its obvious you have not read your recommended print speeds on your silk filaments. lets use Bambus new silk pla + as an example here is a direct quote from there site "Cautions for Use: lower the outer wall speed to 50 mm/s for the best gloss". My filaments that i use are rated at 40mms and achieve a shine i would expect. so yes 40mm/s and if you are happy with a crappy shine you do you boo.
@802Garage as i said in my original post "these are my successes at silk" if you are happy with a crappy shine you go ahead and print at what ever speed you want. Its obvious you have not read your recommended print speeds on your silk filaments. lets use Bambus new silk pla + as an example here is a direct quote from there site "Cautions for Use: lower the outer wall speed to 50 mm/s for the best gloss". My filaments that i use are rated at 40mms and achieve a shine i would expect. so yes 40mm/s and if you are happy with a crappy shine you do you boo.
@802Garage as i said in my original post "these are my successes at silk" if you are happy with a crappy shine you go ahead and print at what ever speed you want. Its obvious you have not read your recommended print speeds on your silk filaments. lets use Bambus new silk pla + as an example here is a direct quote from there site "Cautions for Use: lower the outer wall speed to 50 mm/s for the best gloss". My filaments that i use are rated at 40mms and achieve a shine i would expect. so yes 40mm/s and if you are happy with a crappy shine you do you boo.
I did have the same issue as you with some filaments, including silks, but the problem was the spools' sizes, not the filaments per se. The stock AMS seems to only like the Bambu spools and other brands (like Sunlu and some other chinese ones) are a bit small for it. I at first switched to the Hydra AMS mod, then went for the Python one. The latter actually allowed me to run 250 gram spools, as well as cardboard and different size plastics spools. I've used it for over a month and have not had any alerts due to filament getting stuck. Hope this helps!
Printed a fair bit of silk with my X1c, never had any problems.
Obviously too late for this year but for next Christmas season, making Giga sized Lego pine trees that people could use as contemporary Christmas tree could be nice. If you could design it with clips or holes to accommodate string lights, that's even better. Trees are Lego part numbers 3471 and 2435.
Big brilliant, ty
Maybe Marble PLA for the T-Rex or MOAI?
P1S AMS check your filament guide, it will most likely be oval shaped from wear since you use a lot of matte pla. You can get just the first stage feeder inner part, 10 minute swap over. Recommend getting AMS Savers, basically uses PTFE before the entry hole to line up the filament so it goes in straight
for models that are not perfectly flat, in the slicer you can drop it slightly into the plate and level it off, most of the time when i do this its less than a mm in depth
If you blew out a ptfe tube in the exit of the ams the tubes under the ams are most likely worn also. When these start to wear they get a grove in them and start causing resistance - which leads to failure to feed and retract. The ams comes with a spare precut set of internal ptfe tubes. I suggest swapping them. These can last a while or go really fast depending on the abrasive level of the material your printing.
That paint in build plate hurt first layer adhesion, tri remove, some of my plates I removed whit isopropyl
Yeah I think the different colored and shiny large objects is a good idea. As for something huge that is Lego, perhaps furniture? An end table or a chair? I know those designs may not already exist though. Could have them commissioned in some way that is cute and still able to be sat on without the bumps digging into someone's butt.
I had a big lego brick started but it failed and I cut bait on it, but will revisit. I think those would do well in a store
FYI... I run silks through my AMS without problems all the time.
Me too, gold and purple. Not sure why I mentioned the color. Smiley face here. My granddaughter loves purple I like the gold.
I’ve had more troubles with silk PLA than any other color, from jamming in the nozzle to just mystery stopping in the feed tube. After a few machines I just stopped even using it for anything. Due to running a print farm and I cannot have down time in production I am careful with whose products I’m using.
I'm working on 3d printed blanks that I can then finish with an engrave or other printed part at like a craft show or flea market, I really want to go to one in 2025
It be neat to make a stupid over sized Pikachu on the giga but multipart, like 5ft tall etc. Something where you would need a pallet to ship it at a premium of course. It could be considered an art piece.
Full size ballon dog on the giga in red would be neat too.
Great content and ty again!
I had a roll of elegoo pla+ snap in the ptfe tubing on my p1S, not a fan of it
Of my 5 ender v3se printers I've never had problems printing silk..55 on my bed temp 218 on the nozzle.i use inland from microcenter..now glitter stuff on a .04 nozzle..ugh...
Same here, Inland silk has never let me down. It's just a matter of learning the correct settings for your particular printer. A few hours of running some small test objects is invaluable.
clearly you have a higher risk tolerance than I do when it comes to selling products relating to Nintendo and Disney. I've seen too many posts from sellers who lost their entire store because of tm and copyright violations.
As for the creator that makes big models in this space.... I hope you have better luck printing them than I did. Printed the giant Bluey for my granddaughter. It was the worst split model to assemble that I've ever printed.
I use strictly Giantarm silk filament. I make several models that when at shows people pickup and are shocked how light they are because they thought they were metal. I made a Lombardi trophy for a friends fantasy draft league that came out perfect. I have tried other silk and keep coming back to it.
Printing large boxes without lifting seems to be impossible for me.
You need to get vision miner adhesive... works great you will not have these build plate issues...I promise...I'm not a sales person for them... I just use it and it's great 👍 👌
I agree the nano adhesive is nice for some filament and buildplate combinations. But it does a white film on the bottom that doesn't always disappear with a heat gun
@@iagmr i wash my prints off and its gone
People get away with printing UP all the time but the consequences are extreme when you deal with Nintendo, Disney and Games Workshop... you are fooling yourself if you think they do not go after shops and individuals. Personally, my business is not worth the risk. At the least, you will likely lose your Etsy shop(s). The worst is they crush you to make an example. You are generally correct about big companies, but these are specific companies that have lawyers on retainer specifically for chasing IP offenders, they get paid to stop infringement, if they don't produce results, they don't get paid so when the big infringers are caught or in those slow times, they will definitely go after the little fish... lots of fish always get away, but you don't want to be the one that gets hooked.
Disney and Nintendo do send cease and desists for people that sell their IP. It’s not sweeping across the board, but it does happen randomly. Etsy will also shut down stores if they get these notices. Again, not across the board, but it does happen. So it’s a risk. But be aware they DO come after individual schmucks and not the platform.
If you are printing and selling trademark products than you are not a business.
so close to 3k keep up the good work!
MANY THANKS
Wasn't your size limit 30"?
30x30x20 or most variants. in some examples i can get 48x24x12
Etsy isn't going to be liable for failing to police its users. No one has successfully sued an internet publisher for failing to police its content unless the publisher was blatantly allowing criminal behavior, à la Napster, GrooveShark, The Pirate Bay.
3k! 3 rolls of filament for the sea turtles this time?
I'm a few days ahead on videos so my thinking is to launch a 5k giveaway within a couple weeks. Use the promo to build subs faster but give away something like an A1 mini combo. Need to find a way to give regular (actual) viewers a better shot than just the giveaway seekers
@TechnicalsTinkers you could put codes In the videos building up to the giveaway. That way the people who really watch the videos could get a couple more entries.
i know you are having issues with silk, so ill give my 2 cents (these are my successes at silk, obviously you will have tons of other opinions). we use the same printers and i print almost primarily in silk. first, i mentioned in the past bambu needs to print outer wall at 40 mm/s or less to have a consistent shine. as far as your issues with ams i am yet to have that problem but i try and consistently use the same filaments that i have success with. I did some tests early on on my kobra maxs and found that Flashforge and CC3D have done the best as far as single color silk filaments (Mika3D has also been good to me but rarely use it). My Bambu printer with ams does very well with those filaments. also again i have yet to have issues with ams but they are not cardboard spools. I have had serious complications with Bambu white silk, I bought it thinking it would be good since its there brand , NOPE. They have since discontinued that line of silk and i am yet to try there new silk line. with that being said i think the issue you are having is brand more then the printer or ams. also when your rolls are getting low use a spool weight. i use one i designed when my spools get to about 25% or less, this will keep your spools more stable when they retract. if you want to try the spool weights you can look it up under user name FIERCEWOLF "spool weight universal for most spools".
40mm/s? I print 150-250 on my Plus4 and get very shiny prints. Need to keep outer wall speed consistent and make sure you aren't hitting max flow rate cap of course.
@@802Garage as i said in my original post "these are my successes at silk" if you are happy with your crappy shine you go ahead and print at what ever speed you want. Its obvious you have not read your recommended print speeds on your silk filaments. lets use Bambus new silk pla + as an example here is a direct quote from there site "Cautions for Use: lower the outer wall speed to 50 mm/s for the best gloss". My filaments that i use are rated at 40mms and achieve a shine i would expect. so yes 40mm/s and if you are happy with a crappy shine you do you boo.
@802Garage as i said in my original post "these are my successes at silk" if you are happy with your crappy shine you go ahead and print at what ever speed you want. Its obvious you have not read your recommended print speeds on your silk filaments. lets use Bambus new silk pla + as an example here is a direct quote from there site "Cautions for Use: lower the outer wall speed to 50 mm/s for the best gloss". My filaments that i use are rated at 40mms and achieve a shine i would expect. so yes 40mm/s and if you are happy with a crappy shine you do you boo.
@802Garage as i said in my original post "these are my successes at silk" if you are happy with a crappy shine you go ahead and print at what ever speed you want. Its obvious you have not read your recommended print speeds on your silk filaments. lets use Bambus new silk pla + as an example here is a direct quote from there site "Cautions for Use: lower the outer wall speed to 50 mm/s for the best gloss". My filaments that i use are rated at 40mms and achieve a shine i would expect. so yes 40mm/s and if you are happy with a crappy shine you do you boo.
@802Garage as i said in my original post "these are my successes at silk" if you are happy with a crappy shine you go ahead and print at what ever speed you want. Its obvious you have not read your recommended print speeds on your silk filaments. lets use Bambus new silk pla + as an example here is a direct quote from there site "Cautions for Use: lower the outer wall speed to 50 mm/s for the best gloss". My filaments that i use are rated at 40mms and achieve a shine i would expect. so yes 40mm/s and if you are happy with a crappy shine you do you boo.
Silk is weaker. Petg would be cool in metallic
Please solve the silk PLA issues first before doing that giga project. 4 kg of filament is a lot of waste of time, materials, electricity....
Buy a Prusa XL. It works perfectly with any filament type.
if your in it for the money (Like me) fuck it, just print everything. Worry about the cease and desist when it comes.
Some of these larger companies will sue you into your mother's basement....just because they pay the lawyers either way.