Which Technique is Best?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
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When we get on a climb for the first time, we usually default to the techniques we’re most comfortable with. In the spur of the moment, we let instinct take over and play to our strengths. It’s only when we revisit the climb that we have the opportunity to test out different movements, finding techniques that are more efficient and higher percentage. This video will explore 4 techniques applied to the same climb, analyzing the pros and cons of each, and ultimately pick out the one that is the best.
Hey. I've climbed as a child but I've stopped at some point, then disability didn't allow for it anymore. I've recently been a bit better and even got back into climbing about two months ago. You're one of about three people on TH-cam who majorly contributed to a big success for me: I've managed my second V3 today and it was the first with a long overhang I ever attempted. I did it twice. Thanks for your work!
Massive congrats, wish you well on your climbing journey :)
This guy is like a college professor turned pro athlete/climber. Amazing in depth explanation of technical climbing.. So far these are the most helpful climbing videos I’ve found on the internet! Well done sir 👍
great video. I've started bouldering a month ago and your videos give me goals for each session in the gym. Keep it up!!
Nice! Are you having fun still? What grade you at now mate?
I started using the outside flag about a month into climbing and I've used it on almost every boulder, top rope or lead route since. Incredibly versatile and stable. You don't have to think about it as a flag either. You can think of just getting the leg out of the way. So any position for your leg that is advantageous for getting to the next hold is good. A good example is if you're going straight up. Flag your leg down in the opposite direction of the hold you're going to. Same applies to left and right. Your leg and foot should point away from your target hold. Also it helps to keep your dangling foot against the wall as to keep your body and hip tighter to the wall and provide a leveraging force to your hand holds. This is good for somewhat mild to semi steep overhang as well
Yoooo that's a big turnaround on the inside flag! Unless I'm completely misremembering (in which case I apologize!), in an earlier video you cited an ancient Neil Gresham video on the inside flag and said something to the effect of "don't really see the use of this, except maybe on some sit start boulder problems".
Rad to see you've come around to it. I think the main advantage with the inside flag is it's really good when your feet are low. In that position, it's generally not *too* difficult to execute as a technique, so long as your foothold isn't awful. I think that's the main time where your average climber should be thinking about it.
Outside flag feels really nice to execute. The whole thing has a flow to it; simple to set up, continuous motion to move to the next hold. I used it to get through a crux sequence outdoors this weekend; if all your good holds are naturally sitting to one side (particularly if one of them is a sidepull), it's very effective.
8:36 it says Outside Flag instead of Back Flag :)
As if it wasn't confusing enough :)
As a lead climber, i prefer the back flag, because it doesnt get in the way of rope management :) i guess it depends on what u climb
I've definitely found many good scenarios for inside flags on lead. If you're careful with your footwork, it works very well.
The other point I think is a con for the back flag is that due to the dynamic way in which you have to make the next move, the chance of the foot popping off is greater due to the way the foot has to flex more quickly. All the other techniques require a more constant loading of the foot
Awesome video, great break down of great essential climbing techniques. I think I’ll use this to make a new drill. I’ll try to climb the same route 4 different ways, should be lots of fun!
On a side note, I’d love to see you continue the sport climbing progression series to the extent you’re bouldering progression series went!
Hell yeah!! sport climbing progression would be great!!
Hi! I’m 12 and these videos have really helped with technique and helped me complete my first v4 today :) I’ve been trying to memorise all of these methods for future climbs, thank you for the great videos!
Awesome video! The details you give are great for a neurotic climber like me 😁 I also have a bunch of friends who are new to climbing so it helps to be able to explain these moves in great detail. I feel pretty confident with my drop knee and outside flag, but your tips about the box and foot swaps were good notes to keep in mind.
I will be working on my inside flag and back flag at my next session! Thank you coach
Great Video. I'll try to climb the same problem with the four different techniques next time I'm in the gym.
This comparison is so helpful!! Thank you!!
One thing people should know is that some of the techniques you described are terrain specific. For example you cannot do a drop knee on a slab/vertical wall, and an inside flag on a really overhung wall will be completely useless.
I prefer using back flag and inside flag over outside flag when it requires a foot swap as it is becomes a more energy efficient move, then the question is, which of the two should you choose, and the answer depends on the distance between the foot hold and the hand hold, it the distance isn't great, then the foot hold is "higher", therefore you should opt for a back flag because an inside flag will have your body be too horizontal. If the distance is greater, then you should opt for an inside flag, because a back flag will "pull you down" and you won't have enough reach
So in the end you should use all 4 techniques, just not all the time and in the stead of a more appropriate one ;)
This kind of video is so awesome! It helps me a lot as a beginner. Pls do more, also for higher grades maybe
small mistake in 4rth best, text does not match voice; But that aside, great great informative video as always!! and I said it once, and I'll say it again... your voice is extra soothing
I'm here for the chill jazz
Thank you for the breakdown of these techniques
Have fun in Salt Lake my dude! Going to miss you at pipes and all your beta!
Yes! A movement for climbers notification, watch now please!
I have a love for back flagging lately. Never really think to inside flag.
Smooth and clean. Love your videos. They help me so much.
what an amazing video dude. thank you
Personally my go to is the standard outside flag. Due to using opposite hand and foot to make the move, I find my body is more balanced than when using the inside flag and same side hand and foot. When I do the inside flag I feel that my body is less balanced and therefore the chances of barn dooring is more likely. It also feels like it requires more strength or at least a slightly more dynamic type of strength movement to make the move.
Fantastic critique! Super helpful
Super informative. Thank you!
Like the video! A further problem of inside flag may be that it seems to include a higher risk of a bad landing when you fall because you can't sort out your feet so fast...
I will disagree here a call this a myth. If you know how to fall then this should be no problem as your legs shoud take mininal force of the fall anyways. Sadly, this isn't talked about at all and I could count on my hand how many climbers I have seen falling properly and they will learn it only when their knees start failing them in their forties.
Fantastic video, very clear and concise explanations
Hey, I have the same Rocknaisum shirt!
I do a lot of inside flags. Not to mention it gives me further reach.
Wow I just realized I've never done inside flag ever! That is kinda crazy
Great technique comparison video. You may want to reupload this simply because when you listed "4th Best," you wrote Outside Flag instead of Back Flag.
Pls continue to make videos! Love your videos I improved because of your videos! Even better than paying $ for lessons
Can u do a video about hamstring progression with stage 1 and stage 2
which bear is best?
great video!
not sure if you can fix this in post but the 4th best screen says outside flag again instead of back flag 8:35
Excellent presentation
I remember randomly meeting you one day up in Pipeworks. It was the only time I've ever been there in my life! So where are you moving to next?
he'sss back!!!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Are you switching gyms? Moving?
best video yet
rocking the mad rock sharks = bonus points
Movement for Climbers. I click. I am satisfied.
Awesome video!
Thank you for this.
I find that backflagging, I expend larger amounts of stamina, perhaps due to the time it takes me to set it up. I find it to he extremely ideal to position my hands but as you said it creates a dynamic motion afterwards which requires some extra tension to counteract. Any advice to make this move more efficient, outside of repition and practice??
Just don't do it. It requires much more energy and your body is swinging around. Some people do it because they think it looks cool and because for the certain Boulders they are stron enough to do it, but i woudl consider it bad technique, IF you don't have to do it.
I use back flag extremely rarely and just for static moves, for example if i have to foot swap to get my second hand on the Top and be stable, i just stay on the foothold with the less advantaged leg and back flag (foot into the wall) to habe the stable base. Just move the other hand static to the top, hold, done.
Unless e Boulder is set in a way that you absolutely have to do a back flag - don't do it. It's a waste of energy.
A common scanario where back flags are very useful is in overhangs, when there is only one foothold available in line with the handhold and relatively high. Perhaps you could try to spot this in your gym and practice this particular case?
@@angelaso8411 Absolutely. The Body then falls naturally in the right place. What I mean is, that in this case, the trailing leg automatically moves in this direction, you just have to let it.
@@philipppuchner1115 Not trying a technique as common as a backflag is begging for a substantial weak point in your climbing technique. It might not appear as frequently as drop knees or outside flags but it is not a hyper-specific move like a figure four or rose move that are not worth practicing. Telling a beginner "don't use this move when it's not needed" is not really helpful, since they don't have the bag of tricks or proprioception to determine which move is best in most scenarios. The best way to learn a move is to experiment with it in a variety of circumstances, as learning when NOT to use it is just as valuable as learning when to use it.
I've only found it useful when I'm in a sideways/horizontal orientation and there's no foothold to progress to
The real answer: it depends
Yo love your vids. Just wondering if the sport climbing series is cancelled or just taking a while?
Woah first! dude you're awesome, looking forward to more climbing specifc workouts.
What happened to pipeworks :(
Nothing, I think he just moved to another gym
I see you are wearing the Scarpa Veloce now instead of the Instinct VS. How are they?
I'm not him but they are excellent for gym clilmbing with good footholds. Smearing gods. You probably need a separate pair of shoes with more support for risky edging.
🙏
The elevator music is bomber
W video
thanks for wearing a shirt this time..
Let’s goooo
...wait why are you still wearing a mask at all, much less while climbing? Haha where in the US are you?
My gym still requires masks at all times and has since the start of the pandemic. I don’t think it’s too uncommon.
@@404JNF In Germany you have to wear it when you are not bouldering. I think, that is a nice compromise!
He says he climbs at Sacramento so I guess California.
@@RationHans Great compromise! I hope that since we have rounded the bend with Omicron in the U.S., we will see our gyms start to ease up a bit on mask restrictions soon.
@@404JNF Only certain areas of the US require masks anywhere at all, I am not in the US and we have not had masks required in over a year. My family lives in Florida and they say they have not been required to wear masks ever, it was only ever a suggestion. You must wear it while you exercise?!? That is madness haha. Is this like where I have seen people with masks that open in the middle so they can keep wearing them while they eat? We thought this was a joke at first but it is real.