Your videos are the best .. I would have replaced that ball joint .. if that rubber boot wasn’t destroyed before you hammered it, it’s completely torn after you removed the lower control arm
"Just Say No" to red thread locker, if you insist you can use blue. That's what torque specifications are for. With red you'll need a blow torch to get those bolts off again.
Good video. But fellows that do their own work and don’t have that big presser are kinda are screwed. Definitely going to need that big presser to get them wheel bearings out. I don’t see anyone getting them out any other way.
If you have a 2007 you can buy the part with the bearing already pressed in 2006 you have to have the tool to remove and replace it or the Press I rented the tool at O'Reilly's Auto I had to put down on almost a $400 deposit now I'm fixing to do the job I should be set this guy really gives the right details with the right size socket I love that pictures that show the actual nut or PCS talking about
Pressing the hub is not successful. I noticed you used a pry bar which you didn't mention on the right side. All I'm doing is damaging the dust shield. Any tips
Old splash shield that was badly rusted got discarded... good. But it was not replaced with a new one. While the caliper is apart, the slide pins should have been removed, inspected, and freshly lubed with silicone. The two screws are NOT Philips #2, which is why they often get the heads stripped. The screws are JIS... the Japanese standard. Has a completely different profile. JIS screwdrivers are available on Spamazon.
Why didn’t you purchase new backing plates shields and install them? Now there’s a good chance rocks will get lodged in there. Additionally the rotor should’ve been wiped down with brake cleaner to remove any possible oil residue from shipment.
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
Best 23 minutes and 48 seconds I've spent very well explained
This was an extremely well made video, to the point , thoroughly explained and no shaky camera. Well done!
Your videos are the best .. I would have replaced that ball joint .. if that rubber boot wasn’t destroyed before you hammered it, it’s completely torn after you removed the lower control arm
+@MowSow Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
"Just Say No" to red thread locker, if you insist you can use blue. That's what torque specifications are for. With red you'll need a blow torch to get those bolts off again.
Still trying to figure out how you supported the knuckle on the press... blowing a gasket trying to figure it out.
Hi ,great tutorial thanks, good to know the correct toque settings.
Glad to see you replaced that broken wheel stud and hub .
Regards uncle Franko 👍
Best tutorial ever. Seriously
9:22
"carefully start prying this out of position"
*flings the snap ring out with no remorse*
thats me with every repair 😂😂
Good video. But fellows that do their own work and don’t have that big presser are kinda are screwed. Definitely going to need that big presser to get them wheel bearings out. I don’t see anyone getting them out any other way.
A small sledge and the right siE socket would do just fine I would thing
Maybe a dead blow mallet for installation
If you have a 2007 you can buy the part with the bearing already pressed in 2006 you have to have the tool to remove and replace it or the Press I rented the tool at O'Reilly's Auto I had to put down on almost a $400 deposit now I'm fixing to do the job I should be set this guy really gives the right details with the right size socket I love that pictures that show the actual nut or PCS talking about
I really like your videos, clear and concise thanks
Great tech, great video
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. Btw I am your new subscriber. Looking forward to seeing more video tutorials. God bless 🙏
Pressing the hub is not successful. I noticed you used a pry bar which you didn't mention on the right side. All I'm doing is damaging the dust shield. Any tips
Where did you get that car in Florida those are some rusty calipers now
Old splash shield that was badly rusted got discarded... good. But it was not replaced with a new one.
While the caliper is apart, the slide pins should have been removed, inspected, and freshly lubed with silicone.
The two screws are NOT Philips #2, which is why they often get the heads stripped. The screws are JIS... the Japanese standard. Has a completely different profile. JIS screwdrivers are available on Spamazon.
Wow that's very helpful 🙂 thank you sir 🙏
Why didn’t you purchase new backing plates shields and install them? Now there’s a good chance rocks will get lodged in there. Additionally the rotor should’ve been wiped down with brake cleaner to remove any possible oil residue from shipment.
0:57 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 HIT HIM UP, BRO, ITS LIFETIME LOL
no need to lub/grease beariing hub before pressing back in??
what is the parts # for the wheel bearing?