Get the March 2024 terrain now! You can join our patreon: www.patreon.com/eonsofbattle or our MMF Tribes: www.myminifactory.com/users/eonsofbattle Either way is the best way to get the 3D models!
Jay, I love ya bud. You Gota put a clear coat over your finished paint before you use streak and grime or oil washes! It will allow the oils to flow into the recesses and easily wipe off the raised areas! Hope that helps!!!
He could also not use thinner, he's rubbing agressively if he's taking off the paint, you dont even need thinner to take off streaking grime if you let it dry less than an hour.
You don't need to use clear coat. My guess is he's not letting the acrylic cure. Paint isn't actually full strength when it appears dry. I generally give it overnight before I do something like oils or streaking grime.
a tablesaw you know has been a massive boon for my own terrain building. being able to slam out standard bases with beveled edges en masse and such quickly is wonderful.
For everyone wondering: Applying gloss varnish before using enamels or oil colours will seal the acrylic paint, but it's not needed, what's needed is a solid coat of acrylic paint on top of the model. The grimdark compendium has an excellent series about those kind of things.
When you're using enamel paint with acrylic, you need to first seal your acrylic paint job with a clear coat of some sort either gloss , matt, or flat. This way when you apply your enamel (oil-based paint) to your acrylic (water-based paint) the two of them don't actually interact. This way your streaking grime and other such weathering techniques fall into the cracks of the areas that you apply them and when you go back in with alcohol not paint thinner or lacquer thinner you'll only take off the highest points of enamel and leave the rest in the recesses and in your low spots. You also don't need to use any sort of cleaning agent when enamel is wet, just a simple paper towel. Should do the trick and if you need anything with it, use alcohol on your oil-based paint, you can technically use nail polish remover since that is acetone and shouldn't destroy the plastic, however, use it sparingly. It is a paint remover and you could chew through your clear coat. Clear coat that comes out of a can should be more resistant than a acrylic based clear coat that you spray through your airbrush since it has hardeners in it. But if you use a clear coat, a lot of your issues with anything enamel when put it on your acrylic paint jobs should come to a stop.
The Rustoleum primer dissolves in enamel thinner. That's what caused the issue with the enamel streaking grime. If you're using oil paints, you need an acrylic or lacquer top coat. Enamel thinner (odourless turpentine) doesn't normally react to acrylic paint (unless it has some laquer thinner mixed in)
GW needs to release a "build your own terrain" kit that includes: bases, walls, doors, low cover, high cover, small bridges. as well as: broken bits and pieces and additional textures. I'd love that.
They used to make terrain kits like that. You got wall sections, some had doors, windows, decorations, etc. We even still have a couple at one of my local game stores. You could build what was on the box or create your own. Doors open or closed. You could save windows/holes in walls for second floor. You could build one big piece, or several small ones.
The paint came of from the streaking grime because you didnt protect the surface with gloss varnish. Just spray some gloss varnish on the whole surface and you're save!
Hello Jay, like other people said, varnish before striking grimes. And also I think one of your primer was enamel base so it reactivated with the thinner.
Completely unrelated to terrain, painting, or tabletop gaming, but I always wondered where my childhood bike went. It was yellow and had a banana seat exactly like the one in your garage- is there anything you wanna tell me? 😉
@EonsofBattle @1:11 you're really setting your self up for a kick back on that table saw. great way to lose a finger. Just a heads up, if the side touching the fence is shorter that the width you need cut it will greatly increase the chance. I do It sometimes just wanted you to know to be extra careful when cutting that way.
Was about to say the same thing. Safety is something that should be paramount in every single hobbyist's (and woodworker's) mind when working with something as powerful as a table saw.
Varnish matt before your streaking grime. Stops the paint coming away when you take it off. Varnish gloss for oils to let stuff flow to the recesses better then matt after. But for grime just go matt for protection.
You can avoid stripping the paint by varnishing it before using streaking grime. But you also have to be careful not to rub too hard or the thinner will dissolve the paint
This video was basically one long giant advert for his Patreon and terrain pack, but Jay manages to make the whole thing so wholesome and entertaining anyway. The end result is fantastic. Those little cherubs seemed so weird and out of place to me at first, but now I think the tiny angel bois make this building spectacular!
That turned out great! As for oil paints? While I can't offer alternatives to the *method* , I've found an excellent alternative to the *product* is Newsh Weathering Medium. It's acrylic and its drying is accelerated by water, so it works well if someone wants to avoid oils and mineral spirits, specifically.
I think the blue on the windows was a bit much especially since gold dosen't rust but everything else is great. I will definetly be using the trick of using some thinned yellow ink on top of grey it looks really good
11:35 that's so odd I had just randomly re-watched the video just yesterday of you painting that model. just did not except him to briefly guest star in this video and be given his final touch. also the terrain looks sick.
it looks great still. And the primaris would have a hard time standing up stright in a modern room today seing that they are 2.5 meters tall. So the scale works. But yes when it comes to gaming, you would like to have them fit under the floor slabs... =)
Don't know, how long you have let the colors cure, before you came in with the oil wash, but consider the white spirit a solvent, that easily take away all colors (pigments) that weren't cured enough. Easiest way to cicumvent this, is to varnish the model/terrain first once or twice, let it sit for a few hours and them come in with the oil wash. For a grim dark terain piece like that, you can absolutely take a matte varnish, but I'd give it two coats of that before I let it rest and then wash it. If you take a glossy varnish, one coat of varnish might be enough. Also varnish the terrain/model, when you are finished with the paint job, as oil washes not necesssarily stick perfectly to the surface without a little help (of a varnish).
For once I would really like some crazy gothic civilian/admin buildings that aren’t completely destroyed. Just like blown out windows maybe a hole in one wall for entry (obviously no roof)
You don’t need to lower your psi. Just flickering the finger on the trigger like you slip off gives the same effect. Just watch the video of harder&steenbeck about airbrush mistakes. One’s mistakes are others opportunities😊
Jay, my precious king... You really need to learn proper saw use, you're not supposed to use your bare hands! You should follow safe practices as per saw professionals and use your feet. You need to guide the wood with those toesies of yours, those little feet fingers, it's the most safe way to use the saw and OSHA approved.
Personally I like competitive terrain. I like the battlefield to be pretty even for both teams in use clear bases and 6” flat objective markers and a mat with deployment zones lined out. Makes starting the actual game so much easier and gets rid of most unknowns/judgment calls.
Dog pawedness dose mater. Left pawed dogs are beter for guide/assistance dogs, to the point that here in the UK, pawdness is one of the. R.N.I.B. first test of puppies of how suitable a cute little pupper is for training into a guide dog. 😊
I don't know about the legality, but this terrain could be turned into a 3d asset to use in TTS. Using photogrammetry though something like meshroom and then a special version of unity it can be imported and used. Maybe something for Nick to look into for a patreon perk or something haha
I disagree with 'Ruins really should be a place for infantry, not vehicles' There have been plenty of occasions where tanks in real life have hidden in ruined buildings to destroy other tanks.
Hmm. Terrain with a lip. I wonder what would happen if you measured it out to be a multiple of 3 inches and set flat 3 inch tiles the same height over the rest of the battlefield to keep models level.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Get the March 2024 terrain now! You can join our patreon: www.patreon.com/eonsofbattle or our MMF Tribes: www.myminifactory.com/users/eonsofbattle Either way is the best way to get the 3D models!
Jay, I love ya bud. You Gota put a clear coat over your finished paint before you use streak and grime or oil washes! It will allow the oils to flow into the recesses and easily wipe off the raised areas! Hope that helps!!!
*gloss* clear coat
He could also not use thinner, he's rubbing agressively if he's taking off the paint, you dont even need thinner to take off streaking grime if you let it dry less than an hour.
@@paint4painmicrofiber glasses cloths are perfect for this 👍
EVERY time! :D
You don't need to use clear coat. My guess is he's not letting the acrylic cure. Paint isn't actually full strength when it appears dry. I generally give it overnight before I do something like oils or streaking grime.
3:03
3:13
3:18
5:30
6:08
GRAAAAHHHH
LMAO STOP
lol
omg
HOW?
I love that the dog facts cards are a reoccurring character
a tablesaw you know has been a massive boon for my own terrain building. being able to slam out standard bases with beveled edges en masse and such quickly is wonderful.
For everyone wondering: Applying gloss varnish before using enamels or oil colours will seal the acrylic paint, but it's not needed, what's needed is a solid coat of acrylic paint on top of the model. The grimdark compendium has an excellent series about those kind of things.
Shoutout to Jay's bike
Ha I thought i was the only one who was going to say something. Retro yellow banana seat friggin awesome!
When you're using enamel paint with acrylic, you need to first seal your acrylic paint job with a clear coat of some sort either gloss , matt, or flat. This way when you apply your enamel (oil-based paint) to your acrylic (water-based paint) the two of them don't actually interact. This way your streaking grime and other such weathering techniques fall into the cracks of the areas that you apply them and when you go back in with alcohol not paint thinner or lacquer thinner you'll only take off the highest points of enamel and leave the rest in the recesses and in your low spots. You also don't need to use any sort of cleaning agent when enamel is wet, just a simple paper towel. Should do the trick and if you need anything with it, use alcohol on your oil-based paint, you can technically use nail polish remover since that is acetone and shouldn't destroy the plastic, however, use it sparingly. It is a paint remover and you could chew through your clear coat. Clear coat that comes out of a can should be more resistant than a acrylic based clear coat that you spray through your airbrush since it has hardeners in it. But if you use a clear coat, a lot of your issues with anything enamel when put it on your acrylic paint jobs should come to a stop.
The Rustoleum primer dissolves in enamel thinner. That's what caused the issue with the enamel streaking grime. If you're using oil paints, you need an acrylic or lacquer top coat. Enamel thinner (odourless turpentine) doesn't normally react to acrylic paint (unless it has some laquer thinner mixed in)
That was said with a lot of confidence for someone so incorrect.
GW needs to release a "build your own terrain" kit that includes: bases, walls, doors, low cover, high cover, small bridges. as well as: broken bits and pieces and additional textures.
I'd love that.
That'll be 1 million pounds and your first born son please
They used to make terrain kits like that.
You got wall sections, some had doors, windows, decorations, etc. We even still have a couple at one of my local game stores. You could build what was on the box or create your own. Doors open or closed. You could save windows/holes in walls for second floor. You could build one big piece, or several small ones.
so true!!!
The garage door reveal better be a mainstay on this channel
FYI before the streaking grime you should have varnished and let that sit for a bit to protect it from the mineral spirits.
I get so excited every time I see a new EonsofBattle video come out 😊
The old one had much more soul. #oldhammer ftw
The paint came of from the streaking grime because you didnt protect the surface with gloss varnish. Just spray some gloss varnish on the whole surface and you're save!
Your terrain and the possibility of making my own (I always wanted to make tons of terrain) is the biggest motivator to when towards a 3D printer
Hello Jay, like other people said, varnish before striking grimes. And also I think one of your primer was enamel base so it reactivated with the thinner.
Your work is always so impressive and inspiring.
Excellent terrain, looks really good painted up. The cherubs are superb.
I like the lil quirky cherub who’s about to twerk or something
Love seeing you break out the woodworking tools Jay.
Thatw ay you chuckled as the garage door opened 😂
Love the modular terrain idea.
As a joiner, you have a nice saw.
Completely unrelated to terrain, painting, or tabletop gaming, but I always wondered where my childhood bike went. It was yellow and had a banana seat exactly like the one in your garage- is there anything you wanna tell me? 😉
your garage door opening scenes need the hulk hogan theme playin
@EonsofBattle @1:11 you're really setting your self up for a kick back on that table saw. great way to lose a finger. Just a heads up, if the side touching the fence is shorter that the width you need cut it will greatly increase the chance. I do It sometimes just wanted you to know to be extra careful when cutting that way.
Was about to say the same thing. Safety is something that should be paramount in every single hobbyist's (and woodworker's) mind when working with something as powerful as a table saw.
always use a varnish before using oils so you don't rub off the paint that or use a soft brush to remove the oils
Oil paint don´t reactivate dryed acrylic paint. It depends on the thickness of the coat to rub off. And even that is not certain.
@@quintu5 no, the white spirit can damage acrylic paint layers and cause them to get removed when rubbing the oil wash off
@@Comedy-Mode Nope. But not letting your paint cure, using a rough "wiper" aggressively will.
Yeah I did the same, luckily it didn’t wipe off a ton of paint on my mini, I gently did it after
@@Comedy-Modenah, I like my comment better mate.
Varnish matt before your streaking grime. Stops the paint coming away when you take it off.
Varnish gloss for oils to let stuff flow to the recesses better then matt after. But for grime just go matt for protection.
Cool as always 👍
I had a green version of that bike as a kid. I loved that bike.
You can avoid stripping the paint by varnishing it before using streaking grime. But you also have to be careful not to rub too hard or the thinner will dissolve the paint
Glad your as good at cleaning your brush as I am :D I have extras so that I can postpone the inevitable as long as possible.
Nice Terrain! The cut at 1:10 is a little bit dangerous. If you cut a long narrow piece with the fence, it can cause a kickback.
This video was basically one long giant advert for his Patreon and terrain pack, but Jay manages to make the whole thing so wholesome and entertaining anyway. The end result is fantastic. Those little cherubs seemed so weird and out of place to me at first, but now I think the tiny angel bois make this building spectacular!
I will be picking up this terrain pack just for the cherubs!
OH OH I've been looking for good cherubs for my sisters army. This goes perfect with the terrain I wanted to get as well!
Rustoleum is an oil based primer. Either varnish, or use something like Vallejo rattle and.
A Schwinn with a banana seat, could Jay get any cooler?!
That looks beautiful
i wish i could play against you and all of this really fun terrain
Keep up the great work bro but always remember to relax and take a break when you need it. We don’t want you burning out
That turned out great! As for oil paints? While I can't offer alternatives to the *method* , I've found an excellent alternative to the *product* is Newsh Weathering Medium. It's acrylic and its drying is accelerated by water, so it works well if someone wants to avoid oils and mineral spirits, specifically.
Jay gunna be part of the Iron Hands if he keeps using the saw like that.
Imho, the sitting cherubs could have been a very nice statue for the terrain, like a gargoyle
I think the blue on the windows was a bit much especially since gold dosen't rust but everything else is great. I will definetly be using the trick of using some thinned yellow ink on top of grey it looks really good
In the grim-darkness of the future, there is only, "Pee Wee's Big Adventure".
The Pigeon Cherubs are a great bit of world building.
Before using the streaming grime you need to put a coat or 2 of varnish to avoid removing all your paint like you did
11:35 that's so odd I had just randomly re-watched the video just yesterday of you painting that model. just did not except him to briefly guest star in this video and be given his final touch. also the terrain looks sick.
He loves his machines ''saw'' much!
This is such a well edited video. I love all the silly jokes.
it looks great still. And the primaris would have a hard time standing up stright in a modern room today seing that they are 2.5 meters tall. So the scale works. But yes when it comes to gaming, you would like to have them fit under the floor slabs... =)
Varnish before an after oils and enamels mates
Came for the terrain, stayed for the fun dog facts
Don't know, how long you have let the colors cure, before you came in with the oil wash, but consider the white spirit a solvent, that easily take away all colors (pigments) that weren't cured enough. Easiest way to cicumvent this, is to varnish the model/terrain first once or twice, let it sit for a few hours and them come in with the oil wash. For a grim dark terain piece like that, you can absolutely take a matte varnish, but I'd give it two coats of that before I let it rest and then wash it. If you take a glossy varnish, one coat of varnish might be enough. Also varnish the terrain/model, when you are finished with the paint job, as oil washes not necesssarily stick perfectly to the surface without a little help (of a varnish).
gotta give your piece a gloss varnish before you do streaking grime to protect your hard work
For once I would really like some crazy gothic civilian/admin buildings that aren’t completely destroyed. Just like blown out windows maybe a hole in one wall for entry (obviously no roof)
"It belongs in a museum!!!1" gif
Pigeons had jobs, that why an entire subclass was ripped out during the war :p
Sad that it was not a whole board build. The one building was good but I really wanted to see the full board
🔥🔥🔥DEFILER MENTIONED🔥🔥🔥 4:28
I’m going to start a drinking game for every time Jay does that satisfied “aaaaaaah”. But I’ll be shitfaced after only a couple of build videos.
Asome buil Jay. 😁👍
0:55 I did not saw .. this coming.
Great work.
if i had the choice, i would always choose the Foarm variant.
the other one is too overloaded with details for my taste.
You forgot the smoke damage. Anything blown up will have smoke stains.
You don’t need to lower your psi. Just flickering the finger on the trigger like you slip off gives the same effect. Just watch the video of harder&steenbeck about airbrush mistakes. One’s mistakes are others opportunities😊
Jay, my precious king... You really need to learn proper saw use, you're not supposed to use your bare hands! You should follow safe practices as per saw professionals and use your feet.
You need to guide the wood with those toesies of yours, those little feet fingers, it's the most safe way to use the saw and OSHA approved.
More kill team stuff, I love it.
Personally I like competitive terrain. I like the battlefield to be pretty even for both teams in use clear bases and 6” flat objective markers and a mat with deployment zones lined out. Makes starting the actual game so much easier and gets rid of most unknowns/judgment calls.
That bike in the garage though! #banannaseat
You forgot to varnish the terrain piece before using streaking grime.
for the love of god push sticks and push boards when using a table saw you can even make your own
Holy crap the way you're using that table saw was so unsafe
I too was and am concerned about, TABLE SAW SAFETY!!!!!
Dog pawedness dose mater. Left pawed dogs are beter for guide/assistance dogs, to the point that here in the UK, pawdness is one of the. R.N.I.B. first test of puppies of how suitable a cute little pupper is for training into a guide dog. 😊
looks great! overkill on the epoxy you maniac!
might just be me, but cyano superglue seems to work fine from what Ive tried
Sean is a name meant to be yelled like Khan
I don't know about the legality, but this terrain could be turned into a 3d asset to use in TTS. Using photogrammetry though something like meshroom and then a special version of unity it can be imported and used. Maybe something for Nick to look into for a patreon perk or something haha
We need a dwarf update
I disagree with 'Ruins really should be a place for infantry, not vehicles' There have been plenty of occasions where tanks in real life have hidden in ruined buildings to destroy other tanks.
Cherubs look class........ in a neat but vaguely disturbing way
Gold doesn't tarnish, hence it's value for thousands of years...
Maybe you should try pro-acryl Newsh.
Cool 🔥🔥🔥
From what I’ve seen others do, you might be better off letting your streak and grime dry for a little bit longer before you wipe it off
clear coat before using the mineral spirits.
I like the hobby stuff, but I click for the dog facts
It's getting everywhere...
Hey jay have you thought about trying the crusade mode?
I think you would like the more narrative style
You need to Varnish the terrain before doing streaking grime.
Where do i find the map Layout in tts? searching for them, but wasnt succsesfully..
My dog is "right" pawed, I called him over as soon as your read it to check...
Shouldnt there be a layer of varnish between your paintjob and streaking grime? This avoids the white spirit stripping the paint.
what type of airbrush do you use? im assuming the compressor you have you can change the psi (I've never used one and have yet to use the one i have)
Depending when you made this j my diaghter will have ether been 1-2 years old
Jay, your dad is going to be so pissed you used his saws. AND didn’t put them away.
Jay at 1:45, 'No more posterboard and popsicle sticks for our game"
Jay at 2:07 "I've got some popsicle sticks here to mix the epoxy!
NGL totally thought that box said dog farts not dog facts
JOB PIGEONS!
When is this set coming to Only Games? (I really want it!)
Boss boss I thought up another dog fact, what do you think
'Your dog could be left or right pawed'
Uhh, sure, print it. I mean, I guess they could be?
Hmm. Terrain with a lip. I wonder what would happen if you measured it out to be a multiple of 3 inches and set flat 3 inch tiles the same height over the rest of the battlefield to keep models level.