Creality K1 Max Fix Bed Level Easy Method
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I will show you how I fix my k1 max bed, first layer. After I dome all this the printer has been printing flawlessly. Do At Your Own Risk
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Amazon Affiliate Links:
Printer Used:
Creality K1 Max: amzn.to/48vw4D1
Recommended PLA:
Elegoo PLA+: amzn.to/41YDdJy
JAYO PLA+ Filament: amzn.to/3Sivd2Q
Time Stamp:
0:00 Start
1:08 Look at bed mesh
3:10 How to see bed mesh
3:58 Fixing bed level
9:14 Conclusion
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I watched a video recently that shows you need to heat up your bed to the material you normally print, then leave it heated for 8-10 minutes, then do your bed mesh. The heating process tends to raise up the sag in the middle of the bed, making the entire bed flatter. This will be a good complement to the things you're suggesting, little brother.
Other people are using foil or other things on top of the heat bed and underneath the build plate to flatten out low spots.
Yes, I do find that worked well, heating the bed up, felt like it makes it more flat.
I tried using foil and it looked weird and for me it doesn't work. The bed is up and down, wavy lol
Good show Scratch ;) It's far from the smoothest but it allowed me to level my K! MAX bed like 80% better in 15 min so...I'm getting improvements all around so cheers to that mate.
glad you found this helpful. Keep on 3d printing!
Excellent, Just did my bed in 7 iterations and accurate to .078 range of error, no point trying to better this as the computer takes over but slightly less work to do than before, Top Man, Well Done
That's amazing man, 0.078 range wow!
Hey thanks! I had a range over the mesh of 1.3mm before adjustments (with bed heated). Had some issues getting good first layers on the back of the bed and it didn't seem as if the ABL could compensate for this
I tried doing the Creality suggested method (screwing the bed down, releasing the belts etc) and that got me to 1.0mm. Then tried the belt skipping but I released tension on the belts using the provided spatula with a rag (to not cause scratches) to get leverage. That got me down to 0.76ish mm range but couldn't really get it better.
Then I found this video and tried loosening the screws on the left/right front axis as you mentioned and after this it felt like I got some more room for adjustments with the skipping. So now I'm down to 0.59mm. Will do some tests and see if it's better or if I need to play around more 🙂
Ahh, that's nice to hear. Hopefully, you will be able to get a flat bed mesh and get perfect first layer prints.
awesome !
Thank you! Cheers!
Smooth!
Thanks
workt perfect
glad it helped you.
How do you get to the bed mesh tho!!!! I cant find it anywhere!!!
You can use Orcaslicer or a browser to see your bed mesh with you printer's ip address. Check this video for all the methods: th-cam.com/video/AttoeB2HKQI/w-d-xo.html
Hey scratch! I’m trying to access the 3D printer with the up address but I can’t seem to be able to get in. I get a connection has timed out message. I tried it on Chrome and Firefox with the same results. What could it be?
hmm. There are a couple of reason. Is your printer connected to your wifi? Was your printer on when you put in the ip address in the search bar? How did you type your ip address in?
@@Scratch3DPrintingPrinter on, and connected to WiFi. Computer connected to the same network. I entered the ip as 123.456.78.910 for example. Still not working.
@@Tarqui787 I'm not sure, maybe watch my newest video and see if that helps. Here: th-cam.com/video/AttoeB2HKQI/w-d-xo.html
@@Scratch3DPrinting Thanks for your reply, but I found what was wrong, and it was a layer 8 issue. I have my WiFi network separated for the 2.4 and the 5g. Although at some point I had my printer connected to the 5g, it seems that I had also connected the printer to the 2.4 at some point. Long story short I had my computer connected to the 5g and the printer to the 2.4 and that’s why it wouldn’t load. Once I connected both to the same frequency it popped right off. Thank you!
Hey
Hello
I also saw that video.. And I think that the problem can be definitively solved by replacing the plate with an adequate thickness of 5 or 6 millimetres.. Also because waiting 10 minutes each time to heat the plate is a nuisance.. what you do and a forcing that in my opinion can work but as the parts wear out it won't be good for a long time
I kind of figure that would be the problem.
I want to advise caution about this technique of forcing the screw to turn. The thing is, all three screws are attached to the same motor so that it only takes one motor to drive the z axis. What you are doing is forcing the one pulley to turn against the belt, forcing the teeth to skip while it's tensioned. That can't be good for the belt.
I don't know what the effects of this will be, maybe you can get away with doing it a few times. But I'm worried that this can damage the belt. I would recommend going through the full process of opening the bottom of the unit to remove belt tension first so that you don't shorten the lifespan of the belt, or worse.
Yea I do feel that might be the problem, but so far it has worked for me and everything seems to be working fine.
Maybe it's an easy method. But with a good chance to damage parts of the printer long term.
My print bed has a similar deviation. But as long as the automatism is able to cover it, i am fine.
Great point
I fixed my K1 Max by returning it and buying a Bambu.
smart.
Not an A1 i hope 😁
That is very bad advice..... you should NEVER force the belt to skip in this manner. The method is fine but you must loosen the belt before or you can damage the belt.
Yeah, should have thought of that before doing this method, next time I'll loosen the belt.
Hmmmmm, don't skip teeth, just undo both those grub screws then you are free to turn the rod. Same as how you level the gantry on a 3 V3 SE, there is a Creality video that shows it.
I tried unscrewed the two screw but it's still lock on with the other.