I didin't read too much of the comments. What I did, I appreciate everyone who contributed. Dude made the video & I applaud his initiative. No video= No comments, ppl. Buying or selling possibly damaged equipment & that's largely a risk for most but a select few. I also appreciate the way at least the comments I saw, Weren't disrespectful or belittling, more of people with a broader knowledge bass & skill set, contributing to anyone who takes the time to follow through. That's what I call a win-win. I watch these types of things because I want to learn about the topic. I already know how to be respectful or disrespectful. How to argue & frankly, the all to common ",I know everything you peons" is old AF! So a sincere TY to everyone from video maker to those who elaborated on the technical side! Damn; an upside down sub, which BTW; does make sense, ONCE someone says it. I HIGHLY doubt I'd have figured that out by Me lonely!
If I may add a little advice, flip the subwoofer upright to test. It effects the reading drastically having pressure on the subwoofer. Another thing, on a 4 ohm DVC sub reading 3 ohm doesn’t mean anything is wrong with the coil, it has no load to it so it’s normal to read low, plus being upside down. If the coil was bad the ohm would jump all over the place and not read a steady number, or read like your second coil and read next to nothing. Thanks. 👍
@@gueroburban4989 well that usually means that the connection is torn, burnt, cut from the connector to the coil. Make sure you’re on the right setting on you dvv. Also make sure nothing else is connected to the subwoofer when checking.
@@gueroburban4989 take a light and look up in there on the spider where the wire runs and I bet the side not reading, the wires in two not connecting to the coil. If you can find where it’s split, you can Solder it back together carefully.
Whatever guys facing up or down you guys can get the jest of it’s broken or not bad coil etc. this guy took the time to post his video. What did you make a better one if you think you can.
so i have dual vented 12 inch MTX audio subs, with the amp set. it is 1000 watt amp but since i blew one of my subs it keeps going into safety mode when the bass is too loud. If i replace the blown subwoofer will the safety mode feature turn off? or is it permanent? asking because I dont want to buy another 100 dollar subwoofer if it wont work, thanks.
Now I have a duel VOICE coil that isn't playing but if you hook up the individual coil it will play?? Same as the other side of the coil. So an I measured with my ohm meter an is reading 3.4 on each side. Can you tell me what is going on with sub ????
All kinds of things wrong here. The sub being upside down affects impedance readings. Also, a multimeter reading resistance in Ohms on a speaker is usually off by about 25%, which means on a 4ohm speaker, a 3ohm reading should be expected. Certainly, it appears ONE of the voice coils is failing, but the one you think is 'about to fail' that's reading 3 ohms, that one is fine.
Homer Sapienne hey I got a SD-3 8” D2 dual 2 ohm sundown audio and when I Peru the meter on it it reads 3 on both sides. Is that normal or is my subwoofer bad.
@@starmc26 If the flexible surround is touching the table and pushing the cone in, it will change the impedance. Hook one up and move the cone up and down while you watch the meter. That's how speakers work. Changing the current changes the electric field that reacts to the magnet. Manually moving the cone has the reverse effect of changing the ohm load.
continuity, resistance and impedance are all different :) What you call gone, is a short, so the coil isn't gone per se, but it is shorted. If it was 'gone', it would be more like missing, not there, vacated the premise. :) You are one funny dude.
Wrong.... A short would show low resistance to a phase or ground, aka HIGH CONTINUITY. He's showing almost no CONTINUITY. .. or NO CONNECTION between phases or to ground. There should be 4 Ohm resistance in the speaker circuit on each coil. One is good, the other is bad.
The sub can NOT receive any pressure, it affects the reading. He needs to have the sub firing UPWARDS!!! His reading is not accurate at all with the sub facing down. Another thing he doesn't mention, is to make sure you are running fresh batteries on your tool, or else it will also give you a false reading.
I legit commented same thing before I seen ur comment glad to know some folks out here trying to correct what's wring and not be an ass about it, but actually trying to help out folks making the videos to not put out inaccurate info
i need your help because I'm dumb as F about car audio, can't figure this out... Im sure i have blown one of my twelve inch subs, but it passes all of the so called "blown-sub-tests" to check if its actually blown out. I think its technically bottoming-out but again I'M NEW TO THIS. So...The fuk'd up subwoofer does produce bass, & at a comparable level to the other sub in my SUV.. The problem is that unlike a blown sub that distorts bass (I've blown subs before & know how they sound) blown-subs make that muffled rattle where bass should be heard . Instead my failing subwoofer makes low & mid level bass just fine until the bass really hits; then it makes a terrible "Thwack!" Slapping sound. The slap doesnt reverberate or rattle. Just one sharp crack every time the beat booms. Some problems with subs are fixable & other's spell the end for the speaker; but NONE of the youtube vids or car-audio websites i have checked address this... & believe me I've searched The sub glides smoothly up & down within range when pressure is applied. No scratching, clicking or popping sounds come from the sub when I gently push it up & down... Sorry for the lengthy question but I'm trying to provide needed info to solve the problem. Do you know whats wrong? I dont know the impedance or ohms, just that its a 4-ch. 1,200 watt amp pushing two 12" subs. I traded a Hdtv for the system, then simply paid a shop to install it. Yes im a dummy; please help me solve this. Thanks
Only issue with the way u did this is u should have ur sub flipped upside down (from the way you checked it it should be magnet on table speaker / dust cap facing up) to check the coil resistance, but I checking for bad coils not sure if it matters or not but to get an accurate reading you should have it flipped and no air like a fan blowing on it to get a reading correctly cuz if u push on the speaker when meter is connected that meter is gonna go all over the place! Hope this helped
I have a dual 2 ohm subwoofer and it’s reading 3 on both sets of Terminals. And yes I have the sub setting upright on a solid surface. Is my sub bad or what’s going on. If anyone could help I would be very grateful. I love this little SD-3 8” D2 it’s new too never been hooked up
The sub needs to be facing in the upright position also..upside down will give u unwanted feedback..I'm getting no feedback off 1 coil an a daily 4 ohm..1 coil is reading,the other nothing..js..thnx
I did this and it reads 3.7 or 3.8. However, if I move the cone in and out with the leads connected, it goes up to 50. Is it normal for the ohms to change as the cone moves?
If you test your sub, test it cone up. That’s the proper way for a proper reading. If it reads a little off such as 3.5 etc it doesn’t mean it’s blown. That’s normal.
@@cjproductions3683 my dual 1 ohm sundown just hotboxed my car and went stiff I have it wired series and parallel at the amp with my other and the other ones fine and they both read 1.8 ohms any idea why it’s stiff and scratching
No, it’s perfectly fine. No speakers ohm rating is actually specific to an exact number. If it’s rated at 8 ohms, anywhere near to 8 ohms is perfectly fine 7 ohms is fine, 9 ohms is fine. His claim that if it reads anything other than exact to 4 ohm, except maybe 3.9 ohms, is 100% pure bullshit. He is just Ill informed. Impedance, or resistance, isn’t a static thing. The moment that the speaker receives a signal, ie the moment that voice coil moves the slightest amount, the resistance is going to change wildly. His voice coil reading 3.3 is perfectly healthy. It’s not on its way out, there absolutely nothing wrong with it.
Dude, you're gonna be having people throwing away the subwoofer. For no reason, you're doing it the wrong way. You gotta have the speaker face and upright straight cone up. Then you measure it
Explain DC or ac . should have left out u bought it a week ago,to me,that means you wired wrong which means ; why trust a persons video if they don't even know how to install? Just a little constructive criticism... only way to get better is to keep making videos and know are mistakes. Keep on keeping on.
Welp. I bought a used jl audio. Had 2 ohms . Which it supposed to be . I thought , what a deal. Played it, and the surround foam fell apart. Lucky me. It's rebuildable though. Wondering if I need a new voicecoil. Pretty is shit. I'll just change. Then test with my piss lead. Lol
I have one terminal that meters 4ohms and the other 78ohms ... why??? I got my meter set to 200 ohms . All my other subs reading out perfectly . It's a old school rockford fosgate punch hx2 10"
Hurry please someone else tell him he is testing it wrong because it's UPSIDE DOWN. If you'd read the first idk 200 comments, you'd see you're late to car audio class.
Hey there buddy. That first voice coil is probably just fine. Flip it upright, hold it still, and I bet it reads 3.5 - 3.7 ohms. Which is the what a 4 ohm speaker should show. Also, I don't think your words "about to go" or "almost bad" mean anything here. There's not a spectrum from 4 ohms to zero that a speaker will follow as it goes bad. It will read 3.5 to 4 ohm (good) until it doesn't (bad). It won't spend any time in between.
I didin't read too much of the comments. What I did, I appreciate everyone who contributed. Dude made the video & I applaud his initiative. No video= No comments, ppl. Buying or selling possibly damaged equipment & that's largely a risk for most but a select few. I also appreciate the way at least the comments I saw, Weren't disrespectful or belittling, more of people with a broader knowledge bass & skill set, contributing to anyone who takes the time to follow through. That's what I call a win-win. I watch these types of things because I want to learn about the topic. I already know how to be respectful or disrespectful. How to argue & frankly, the all to common ",I know everything you peons" is old AF! So a sincere TY to everyone from video maker to those who elaborated on the technical side! Damn; an upside down sub, which BTW; does make sense, ONCE someone says it. I HIGHLY doubt I'd have figured that out by Me lonely!
If I may add a little advice, flip the subwoofer upright to test. It effects the reading drastically having pressure on the subwoofer. Another thing, on a 4 ohm DVC sub reading 3 ohm doesn’t mean anything is wrong with the coil, it has no load to it so it’s normal to read low, plus being upside down. If the coil was bad the ohm would jump all over the place and not read a steady number, or read like your second coil and read next to nothing. Thanks. 👍
Totally agree with you pal I was laughing when he left it upside down 😄 🤣
I agree with you 100 what if my multimeter doesn’t read at all??
@@gueroburban4989 well that usually means that the connection is torn, burnt, cut from the connector to the coil. Make sure you’re on the right setting on you dvv. Also make sure nothing else is connected to the subwoofer when checking.
@@joshuageorge7758 it’s a dual voice coil one set is good the other set my meter doesn’t read anything
@@gueroburban4989 take a light and look up in there on the spider where the wire runs and I bet the side not reading, the wires in two not connecting to the coil. If you can find where it’s split, you can Solder it back together carefully.
I appreciate it. This was the most informative video on this topic I've seen. Awesome job! Thanks!
Thanks man. I watched several TH-cam videos and you explained this the best. Thank you
Thank you. Exactly what I was looking for. Nice and simple and well explained
Thank. Exactly the video I was lookin for and needed. Appreciate it much.
Whatever guys facing up or down you guys can get the jest of it’s broken or not bad coil etc. this guy took the time to post his video. What did you make a better one if you think you can.
so i have dual vented 12 inch MTX audio subs, with the amp set. it is 1000 watt amp but since i blew one of my subs it keeps going into safety mode when the bass is too loud. If i replace the blown subwoofer will the safety mode feature turn off? or is it permanent? asking because I dont want to buy another 100 dollar subwoofer if it wont work, thanks.
0:51 subtitles says.. my piss leads are good. Lol. Test*
Having the cone down will show a different reading
No... It won't.
Great damn video. Direct and informative. Thank you
Now I have a duel VOICE coil that isn't playing but if you hook up the individual coil it will play?? Same as the other side of the coil. So an I measured with my ohm meter an is reading 3.4 on each side. Can you tell me what is going on with sub
????
All kinds of things wrong here. The sub being upside down affects impedance readings. Also, a multimeter reading resistance in Ohms on a speaker is usually off by about 25%, which means on a 4ohm speaker, a 3ohm reading should be expected. Certainly, it appears ONE of the voice coils is failing, but the one you think is 'about to fail' that's reading 3 ohms, that one is fine.
Homer Sapienne hey I got a SD-3 8” D2 dual 2 ohm sundown audio and when I Peru the meter on it it reads 3 on both sides. Is that normal or is my subwoofer bad.
Um yep he is measuring it wrong..it's upside down causing the cone to be pushed in ,so it won't measure it right.
Measuring the impedance on the speaker upside-down is PERFECTLY FINE. You don't know what you're talking about.
@@starmc26 If the flexible surround is touching the table and pushing the cone in, it will change the impedance. Hook one up and move the cone up and down while you watch the meter. That's how speakers work. Changing the current changes the electric field that reacts to the magnet. Manually moving the cone has the reverse effect of changing the ohm load.
Upside down will mess everything up
excellent information......
Yes thanks was looking for this to narrow a problem
continuity, resistance and impedance are all different :) What you call gone, is a short, so the coil isn't gone per se, but it is shorted. If it was 'gone', it would be more like missing, not there, vacated the premise. :) You are one funny dude.
Haiku Automation 😂
He's looking for the coil to be open not shorted. Which is the total opposite. Nice try being an asshole though.
Wrong.... A short would show low resistance to a phase or ground, aka HIGH CONTINUITY. He's showing almost no CONTINUITY. .. or NO CONNECTION between phases or to ground. There should be 4 Ohm resistance in the speaker circuit on each coil. One is good, the other is bad.
The sub can NOT receive any pressure, it affects the reading. He needs to have the sub firing UPWARDS!!! His reading is not accurate at all with the sub facing down. Another thing he doesn't mention, is to make sure you are running fresh batteries on your tool, or else it will also give you a false reading.
Good tip too thank you
I legit commented same thing before I seen ur comment glad to know some folks out here trying to correct what's wring and not be an ass about it, but actually trying to help out folks making the videos to not put out inaccurate info
i need your help because I'm dumb as F about car audio, can't figure this out... Im sure i have blown one of my twelve inch subs, but it passes all of the so called "blown-sub-tests" to check if its actually blown out. I think its technically bottoming-out but again I'M NEW TO THIS.
So...The fuk'd up subwoofer does produce bass, & at a comparable level to the other sub in my SUV..
The problem is that unlike a blown sub that distorts bass
(I've blown subs before & know how they sound) blown-subs make that muffled rattle where bass should be heard .
Instead my failing subwoofer makes low & mid level bass just fine until the bass really hits; then it makes a terrible "Thwack!" Slapping sound. The slap doesnt reverberate or rattle. Just one sharp crack every time the beat booms.
Some problems with subs are fixable & other's spell the end for the speaker; but NONE of the youtube vids or car-audio websites i have checked address this... & believe me I've searched
The sub glides smoothly up & down within range when pressure is applied. No scratching, clicking or popping sounds come from the sub when I gently push it up & down...
Sorry for the lengthy question but I'm trying to provide needed info to solve the problem.
Do you know whats wrong? I dont know the impedance or ohms, just that its a 4-ch. 1,200 watt amp pushing two 12" subs.
I traded a Hdtv for the system, then simply paid a shop to install it.
Yes im a dummy; please help me solve this. Thanks
It never reads the exact impedance.
Only issue with the way u did this is u should have ur sub flipped upside down (from the way you checked it it should be magnet on table speaker / dust cap facing up) to check the coil resistance, but I checking for bad coils not sure if it matters or not but to get an accurate reading you should have it flipped and no air like a fan blowing on it to get a reading correctly cuz if u push on the speaker when meter is connected that meter is gonna go all over the place! Hope this helped
Be easy on the boi 😂 (grandma voice)
That sub should be facing up right?
I have a dual 2 ohm subwoofer and it’s reading 3 on both sets of Terminals. And yes I have the sub setting upright on a solid surface. Is my sub bad or what’s going on. If anyone could help I would be very grateful. I love this little SD-3 8” D2 it’s new too never been hooked up
Could be dying batteries in meter.
The speaker is fine.
The sub needs to be facing in the upright position also..upside down will give u unwanted feedback..I'm getting no feedback off 1 coil an a daily 4 ohm..1 coil is reading,the other nothing..js..thnx
thank you
I did this and it reads 3.7 or 3.8. However, if I move the cone in and out with the leads connected, it goes up to 50. Is it normal for the ohms to change as the cone moves?
If you test your sub, test it cone up. That’s the proper way for a proper reading. If it reads a little off such as 3.5 etc it doesn’t mean it’s blown. That’s normal.
@@cjproductions3683 my dual 1 ohm sundown just hotboxed my car and went stiff I have it wired series and parallel at the amp with my other and the other ones fine and they both read 1.8 ohms any idea why it’s stiff and scratching
I have a kicker reading 7.4 ohms. Is that bad? It's rated for 8-10 ohms
No, it’s perfectly fine. No speakers ohm rating is actually specific to an exact number. If it’s rated at 8 ohms, anywhere near to 8 ohms is perfectly fine 7 ohms is fine, 9 ohms is fine.
His claim that if it reads anything other than exact to 4 ohm, except maybe 3.9 ohms, is 100% pure bullshit. He is just Ill informed. Impedance, or resistance, isn’t a static thing. The moment that the speaker receives a signal, ie the moment that voice coil moves the slightest amount, the resistance is going to change wildly. His voice coil reading 3.3 is perfectly healthy. It’s not on its way out, there absolutely nothing wrong with it.
Whoa that's one hell of a southern accent! Where u from cuz?
What if your testing a speaker with no voice coil like a tweeter. Are the rules the same?
Tweeters HAVE VOICE COILS.... ALL SPEAKERS DO.... twit.
Just make sure you set it to the "omega"setting and well, you know
Haha same thing I thought well at least he has a multimeter lol😂
Quontez Jim: Sir, Don’t you mean Mul-tie Meter? Now go fix that typo 🤨
@@sdtowns773 lol🤫🤫🤫
Thank man you help me a lot, now I just find out that my sub is gone!
Man!! In order to test it like that you jave to put the subs the cone has to be facing up to the sky
My sub is 3ohms, but its reading 6.8-7.0ohms. What does that mean?
Are you measuring across 2 voice coils?
Dude, you're gonna be having people throwing away the subwoofer. For no reason, you're doing it the wrong way. You gotta have the speaker face and upright straight cone up. Then you measure it
My brand new subs read 3.5 ohms.
Damn fosgate mine slight rattle high volume. Need to test
He's doing it wrong... the woofer should be facing up... 🤔
adam mendoza yeah he is slow probably threw away a good pair of subs it can’t read what it’s supposed to cause you got the pushed in from laying on it
Explain DC or ac . should have left out u bought it a week ago,to me,that means you wired wrong which means ; why trust a persons video if they don't even know how to install? Just a little constructive criticism... only way to get better is to keep making videos and know are mistakes. Keep on keeping on.
Welp. I bought a used jl audio. Had 2 ohms . Which it supposed to be . I thought , what a deal. Played it, and the surround foam fell apart. Lucky me. It's rebuildable though. Wondering if I need a new voicecoil. Pretty is shit. I'll just change. Then test with my piss lead. Lol
What happen to your sub ?
my subwoofer has no drum tone what i hear is only the base guitar tone
I have one terminal that meters 4ohms and the other 78ohms ... why??? I got my meter set to 200 ohms . All my other subs reading out perfectly . It's a old school rockford fosgate punch hx2 10"
bit late but did you figure this out i'm having a similar problem?
@@matties2481 blown voice coil bro .. would need reconing
Cone is susuppose to face the sky during ur test bud...that's why ur coils appear gone
You can't have it on the face it will cause the resistance to be incorrect
Sub post to be facing up not down
Hurry please someone else tell him he is testing it wrong because it's UPSIDE DOWN. If you'd read the first idk 200 comments, you'd see you're late to car audio class.
Hey there buddy. That first voice coil is probably just fine. Flip it upright, hold it still, and I bet it reads 3.5 - 3.7 ohms. Which is the what a 4 ohm speaker should show.
Also, I don't think your words "about to go" or "almost bad" mean anything here. There's not a spectrum from 4 ohms to zero that a speaker will follow as it goes bad. It will read 3.5 to 4 ohm (good) until it doesn't (bad). It won't spend any time in between.
Why 4
You are giving false information. A 4 ohm speaker that is good will read between 2 and 4 ohms. You should do some research before making a video
Bullshit. It definitely should not read 2 or anything below 3. If you're getting 2 ohms on a 4 ohm speaker it's probably blown.