a great little test i like to do is get a little square 9v battery or any battery can work, and just put the pos on the pos and the neg on the neg and it will pop the sub in one direction and if you reverse the polarity it will pop the opposite direction and if you tap it quickly you can see it move and also hear it move, by doing this test it shows 3 things, 1- the movement of the sub 2- hearing for any noises and 3- making sure the coil is working and there is no break somewhere, i personally have used this many time buying 2nd hand subs and forgetting to bring my mutli meter so i just get some wire and a AA battery or even car battery and do a pop test
Hey I I have nowhere to the competitive car audio scene anyway I just installed a bigger amplifier in my car and I had to wire my subs from one ohm down to four ohm I followed the directions in the deaf bonce aak manual of how to wire it down to four
I miss these kinds of awesome, informative videos from you. You actually just helped me diagnose what was wrong with one of my subwoofers I've been struggling with!
Good tips. I had a sub that I over pushed too hard (20 years ago) and the mesh wire came off. I tried soldering it back but only lasted about 5 minutes before failing again. Certainly worth checking that!
I once bought an used Kicker sub that doesn't want to play low (also played quiet). It measured impedance OK, looked physically ok... So I bought a new exact same model from Crutchfield, and yes, the used sub definitively have an issue because the new one played much better... But I never knew what issue it was.. To every buyer of used gear, do everything you can to fully TRY the gear before paying and leaving.
@@CarAudioFabrication Hello! I own a 2022 Ford Fiesta and I would like to upgrade the sound system. I already know that the stock receiver doesn't have auxiliary outputs. I would like to do a 6.1 system upgrading the existing speakers and adding, besides a subwoofer, 2 extra speakers in the back(on the piece that moves with the hatchback)
That is very cool, are used to buy a lot of open box stuff from circuit city and 99% of the time I usually Won or I came up or was very happy with the purchase or sold the amplifier or stereo very quickly for more
Great video. I have cooked a few subwoofers in my time in the lanes… I’d also like to add, that a voice coil smells burnt after they have been over worked. Might be something worth nothing if someone is interested in buying used subwoofers….. If it smells burnt, perhaps pass…
I did this when I found a 10tw3 on offerup for 100 bucks on offer up. The guy tested the speaker, it played because it was a dvc. When I took it out of the box and tested the impedence, one coil was bad. Thanked him and left….
Another tip is to set up search alarms on the apps you use to search for these. Great deals don't last more than an hour, I remember I got notified of a JL Audio AE 8" for 100 bucks, and I got it right away. It was almost new.
Something I always wondered. Would it make sense to get an amp for my car speakers even if I play my music at less than 20% volume? Could I just add a sub to my pioneer directly and skip the amps?
Just get a 50w Bass Tube from SAS aka Bazooka. You are not getting the low end sub frequently from door speakers. To complete a stereo you need a sub. My Forte GT came with the HK system and 6.5 sub in the rear deck. The problem is 12.5 watts per channel or 25 watts total is not enough for low frequencies. You need horsepower or amp power for stuff below 50Hz.
It depends on the Pioneer deck if the crossover inside the head unit supports high pass/low pass crossovers on the internal amp a 6 inch bass tube (passive) is the most efficient sub system you can get 100db at 1w/1m
@@dj4monie so maybe I can just get a low watt amp just for a small sub for cheap (but of course not at the expense of quality) and connect that to the sub out on my head unit?
hi not quite related to this video but I and planing Speakers set up for my car. I plan on having two 5 inch component speakers in the front doors. And two 4 inch component in the back doors. there is no room for anything over 4. I also had plans to have two in the real dekk Because they are already hols for some 9x6 (mayby component) speakers. and finally a 10 inch subwoofer. I thought about 70w RMS on the ver speaker and 250/300 W RMS on the subwoofer. question 1 I really want the amplifier to look the same so I can use two 4-channel amplifiers. one to all the doors and one to the two 9x6 and bridge connect two channels to the subwoofer or will it prevent sound quality I dont need super quality but want something good that I have made myself Question 2 is there too little 250/300 for subwoofer and is it stupid to have in the back doors and the 9x6 speakers for these must get the same audio signals
Are there any tools/toys or ways of using a dvom to track down alternator whine? I know the basics of run your signal RCA Wires down one side of the car and your power down the other side. But I've got a whine that comes and goes, I've tried turning accessories/headlights on/off etc but having trouble tracking down the source of the whine... Any ideas?
It could just be your alternator on its way out. Use a voltmeter and check for AC voltage at the terminal. There should be none or very little. That would show you the diodes are bad in the alternator.
Question, how good of a subwoofer does it have to be in general opinion? I have two 10 inch 1200/600rms dc 4 ohm dvc and they seems to have plenty of oomph. Is it one you or anyone in chat here recommend being repaired? I still need to check of its broken. Thanks in advance!
No true answer to “good vs bad”. Obviously Uber cheap items (typically) don’t perform as well or the build quality isn’t as good. The second part of your question doesn’t make much sense.
Yes why wouldn't they? You should enable high pass filters. Most good components can play down to 55-60Hz or further in a door that is sealed well and sound deadened. I can easily play Hertz Desi down to 60Hz on deck power.
I've seen many used subwoofers listed for sale with punctures (misguided screwdrivers) in the surrounds that have been "repaired" by the seller by globbing on some type of adhesive. Are those to be avoided at all cost, or are they still viable if the price is right?
Would it still "work"... yes... but it has a likelihood of failing. I'd ask myself "is this an AMAZING deal"? "Can I afford to also recone". If not probably best to avoid.
Hey Mark my name is Mike and l have a problem so l need your help or anybody help. I have 2 projects that no one can do. 1. I have a Orion Hcca 181 SPLX 18” 20,000 watts 7,500rms 1ohm and looking for what subwoofer specs l need for a box. 2. Can you tell me what Amp can push 7,500rms
a great little test i like to do is get a little square 9v battery or any battery can work, and just put the pos on the pos and the neg on the neg and it will pop the sub in one direction and if you reverse the polarity it will pop the opposite direction and if you tap it quickly you can see it move and also hear it move, by doing this test it shows 3 things, 1- the movement of the sub 2- hearing for any noises and 3- making sure the coil is working and there is no break somewhere, i personally have used this many time buying 2nd hand subs and forgetting to bring my mutli meter so i just get some wire and a AA battery or even car battery and do a pop test
Hey I I have nowhere to the competitive car audio scene anyway I just installed a bigger amplifier in my car and I had to wire my subs from one ohm down to four ohm I followed the directions in the deaf bonce aak manual of how to wire it down to four
I miss these kinds of awesome, informative videos from you. You actually just helped me diagnose what was wrong with one of my subwoofers I've been struggling with!
It couldn't be better explained. Thank you mark!
Long time watcher.. THIS is where it is at! Any electronic device can be checked through resistance to see if its working. Thanks for the great videos
Good tips. I had a sub that I over pushed too hard (20 years ago) and the mesh wire came off. I tried soldering it back but only lasted about 5 minutes before failing again. Certainly worth checking that!
I once bought an used Kicker sub that doesn't want to play low (also played quiet). It measured impedance OK, looked physically ok... So I bought a new exact same model from Crutchfield, and yes, the used sub definitively have an issue because the new one played much better... But I never knew what issue it was.. To every buyer of used gear, do everything you can to fully TRY the gear before paying and leaving.
So weird!
Boopootytiiinnnnggg
Great video! You should consider a video on used boxes and amps as well.
Hmmm... if enough people post up asking for it maybe!
I’d love to see the used box and amp video. Please do it in your living room barefoot .
@@CarAudioFabrication Hello! I own a 2022 Ford Fiesta and I would like to upgrade the sound system. I already know that the stock receiver doesn't have auxiliary outputs. I would like to do a 6.1 system upgrading the existing speakers and adding, besides a subwoofer, 2 extra speakers in the back(on the piece that moves with the hatchback)
Idk buying an amp is pretty much a yes or no, just do it and see if it works
@@CarAudioFabrication asking
Just bought a 12’’ w7 q class from crutchfield scratch and dent discount. Speaker was perfect box was very slightly banged up.
I use a 9v battery to test a used sub works great for me
Got me a JL Audio w3 for $15 bucks sounding good
That is very cool, are used to buy a lot of open box stuff from circuit city and 99% of the time I usually Won or I came up or was very happy with the purchase or sold the amplifier or stereo very quickly for more
Great video. I have cooked a few subwoofers in my time in the lanes… I’d also like to add, that a voice coil smells burnt after they have been over worked. Might be something worth nothing if someone is interested in buying used subwoofers….. If it smells burnt, perhaps pass…
Great point! 👍
Great video man. Very informative Health check on amps vid would be awesome too.
I did this when I found a 10tw3 on offerup for 100 bucks on offer up. The guy tested the speaker, it played because it was a dvc. When I took it out of the box and tested the impedence, one coil was bad. Thanked him and left….
Another tip is to set up search alarms on the apps you use to search for these. Great deals don't last more than an hour, I remember I got notified of a JL Audio AE 8" for 100 bucks, and I got it right away. It was almost new.
Good tip!
would puttting my subs in the backseat facing the ceiling be okay if the enclosure is securely strapped?
My kicker l7 10" is a dual 4 and one of the voice coils reads in between 6.8 to 8ohms but stays at 6.8 ohms. Is my sub still good?
Hello, i have just purchased massive hippo 12 xl but i have no idea what the box design/size should be. Can you please help. (ported box)
Very nice and important video Thank you.
Im thinking getting SVS SB16 sub from store. Its been used 4 years but price is only 50% of new one. Is it a good deal or not?
Something I always wondered. Would it make sense to get an amp for my car speakers even if I play my music at less than 20% volume? Could I just add a sub to my pioneer directly and skip the amps?
Just get a 50w Bass Tube from SAS aka Bazooka. You are not getting the low end sub frequently from door speakers. To complete a stereo you need a sub. My Forte GT came with the HK system and 6.5 sub in the rear deck. The problem is 12.5 watts per channel or 25 watts total is not enough for low frequencies. You need horsepower or amp power for stuff below 50Hz.
It depends on the Pioneer deck if the crossover inside the head unit supports high pass/low pass crossovers on the internal amp a 6 inch bass tube (passive) is the most efficient sub system you can get 100db at 1w/1m
@@dj4monie so maybe I can just get a low watt amp just for a small sub for cheap (but of course not at the expense of quality) and connect that to the sub out on my head unit?
@@dj4monie yes the unit has a cross over function. Its an avh-x2800bs
an active sub will do it..like an edge..
Thanks for the great advice, like always.
Hey I'm buying a second hand rockford fosgate p300 12T how do I check amp and sub with a multi meter to see if it's ok to buy it please help 🙏
Crazy thought it’s how the W7 is still sold new but you may end up with a 2008 model on the used market.
What about spider sag
thx, help solve my sub issue 🙂
Yes flip it back over... Lol great detail thank you!!
hi not quite related to this video but I and planing Speakers set up for my car. I plan on having two 5 inch component speakers in the front doors. And two 4 inch component in the back doors. there is no room for anything over 4. I also had plans to have two in the real dekk Because they are already hols for some 9x6 (mayby component) speakers. and finally a 10 inch subwoofer. I thought about 70w RMS on the ver speaker and 250/300 W RMS on the subwoofer.
question 1 I really want the amplifier to look the same so I can use two 4-channel amplifiers. one to all the doors and one to the two 9x6 and bridge connect two channels to the subwoofer or will it prevent sound quality
I dont need super quality but want something good that I have made myself
Question 2 is there too little 250/300 for subwoofer and is it stupid to have in the back doors and the 9x6 speakers for these must get the same audio signals
Are there any tools/toys or ways of using a dvom to track down alternator whine?
I know the basics of run your signal RCA Wires down one side of the car and your power down the other side. But I've got a whine that comes and goes, I've tried turning accessories/headlights on/off etc but having trouble tracking down the source of the whine...
Any ideas?
It could just be your alternator on its way out. Use a voltmeter and check for AC voltage at the terminal. There should be none or very little. That would show you the diodes are bad in the alternator.
probably coming through your head unit. Use a simple filter on positive and negative wires going to your head unit.
WHAT MTX SUBWOOFER DID U JUST USE AS A EXAMPLE FOR THE SCRATCH PART MARK 9500 !?!???
7500
Question, how good of a subwoofer does it have to be in general opinion? I have two 10 inch 1200/600rms dc 4 ohm dvc and they seems to have plenty of oomph. Is it one you or anyone in chat here recommend being repaired? I still need to check of its broken. Thanks in advance!
No true answer to “good vs bad”. Obviously Uber cheap items (typically) don’t perform as well or the build quality isn’t as good.
The second part of your question doesn’t make much sense.
If my component speakers go out will I still have bass?
Yes why wouldn't they? You should enable high pass filters. Most good components can play down to 55-60Hz or further in a door that is sealed well and sound deadened. I can easily play Hertz Desi down to 60Hz on deck power.
I've seen many used subwoofers listed for sale with punctures (misguided screwdrivers) in the surrounds that have been "repaired" by the seller by globbing on some type of adhesive. Are those to be avoided at all cost, or are they still viable if the price is right?
i have been aN impatient dumbass and punctured surrounds before and had no issue fixing it with E6000
Would it still "work"... yes... but it has a likelihood of failing. I'd ask myself "is this an AMAZING deal"? "Can I afford to also recone". If not probably best to avoid.
Honestly I’ve repaired some subs before and they sounds just as good. Just make sure you get a great deal not just a good deal on a sub like that.
not always a big deal
just depends
I don't do used systems anymore; I just buy offbrand or cheap 🤣 but good info to know, just in case.
Hey Mark my name is Mike and l have a problem so l need your help or anybody help. I have 2 projects that no one can do. 1. I have a Orion Hcca 181 SPLX 18” 20,000 watts 7,500rms 1ohm and looking for what subwoofer specs l need for a box. 2. Can you tell me what Amp can push 7,500rms
You forgot to tell about the coil wire color. If the sub has been used harshly, the winding color would be blackish
Among the last things I'd ever buy is a piece of used car audio equipment.
It's not for everyone.
some people tend to renew before broken and also young children and buggies are a thing
Can i buy 1 used subwoofer from you?
I got one huge subwoofers 🔊 that doesn’t have any specifications. How can I figure out it’s power ?