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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ส.ค. 2016
- Is your Chevy truck blowing hot air in the middle of summer? I found a way to fix the actuators that cause this problem (in certain cases). All you need is a little steel wool.
Update: Over a year later, and I've had no issues with the actuator since the fix. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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No way! I have my whole dash open, bought a replacement, and lo and behold, it's the 3 pin! I was supposed to get 5 pin! So I open up the old actuator, and what do you know, the two prong contacts on the gear are full of grease!! Unreal man, you saved the day!
I want to thank you for this repair video. My son's 2004 Sierra was doing the hot air thing on drivers side and I did exactly what you illustrated and it seems to be working fine now. I have a 2011 Sierra and my A/C was giving me fits with working fine sometimes and then blowing weak coolish air other times. Until the issue with my son's 2004 Sierra, I didn't realize that my issues on the 2011 Sierra were isolated to the drivers side too. The passenger side would cool fine and the drivers side was intermittent at best. The only thing different was on the 2011 it wasn't blowing truly heated air. It was just blowing slightly cooled air or ambient temp air. Long short of it: i did the grease removal on the blend door actuator and it too is now working fine! Thanks again, you saved me a ton of money and headaches.
Hard to believe it was this simple, but it worked like a charm. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for this! My 2004 Yukon has been shifting from AC to heat as well. Happens occasionally, but definitely uncomfortable. The easy fix was to pull over, turn the truck off and back on and then worked fine for a while. Tired of doing that so decided to fix. Found your video and going to perform your fix this weekend. Thanks for the video !
Nice job. Finally someone finds an excellent fix for what is happening. Over time the grease moves with heat and gravity thus interfering with contacts. This will fix over 99% of the units out there having heat come on driver side while AC is on. A quick check is when the heat starts, find a safe place to pull over and turn off your vehicle and restart. Upon restarting, if your AC blows cold again, this will be a fix without having to purchase part. Even if you are not mechanically inclined, you can pull this off. I saw where someone stated cost of repair 25 cents ( a Q tip and 70% home use alcohol). Thanks again for taking time to post this.
Neil Gillette does it matter how you put the gears back in after u cleaned it??
Thanks man,you just saved me 50 in parts. A mechanic was going to charge me 77 in labor for something i did in 10 mins.
I was able to repair my actuator due in part to your very helpful video. Thank you so much for sharing as you saved me big bucks by not buying a new part that I actually did not need.
Alright. Just did this fix and you saved my sanity. Worked perfect. Mine had an extra issue. Not only were all the contacts covered in grease but the contacts were bent so they weren’t touching the traces on the board. Some gentle nudging got it all realigned. I cleaned the traces with alcohol and used some fine sandpaper on the contacts. I also reassembled with the notch lined up with the middle line. Not sure that matters. Did the fuse pull calibration and I’m was set. Thank you!!
Thanks for the info. I had trouble with driver side stuck on cold. I removed actuator (same one in your video). Cleaned contacts and tracks w Paper towel. Just bent spring contacts out very slightly, moved some of the grease onto contacts (grease is there for lube). Put back & presto! Works great!
Great video & explanation!
I have a hunch this is the problem with my 2001 GMC Sierra. It was working fine until about a month ago - when it started to only blow coolish air, which feels hot & uncomfortable in this humid climate near Houston.
Nice work, great explanation / demonstration. You just saved me a bunch of money. THANK YOU!
Thank you because I don't have the money to buy a new one even least that gives me an idea what to look for and try and fix it I appreciate you taking the time to video it
Thanks for saving me $150, cleaned it up like you said works good now.
I have just bought a 2005 Chevy Suburban 1500 LT. It is blowing hot air from the driver-side vents only. It will blow cold air, and then randomly switch to max heat. I haven't been able to make this happen or prevent it from happening, but it happens frequently.
I will follow these directions and hope it works. I've read and watched a lot of other posts and the grease and dirty contacts are the common denominators in about 90% of what I've read.
Thanks for posting this.
Finally a fix instead of throwing replacement parts at a vehicle! I just did this and it worked awesome! Lets see how long she holds up!
Hello, Is it still working? Have you had any re-occurrences of the blast furnace temps in the summer?
Thank you for video that goes right to the fix, plenty of wanna be's would have you tearing the dash out. I always appreciate those of you that take me down the right path.
This worked for my 2010 silverado. Thank you very much!
One note to add. The grease should have been white lithium or dielectric. It is there to prevent corrosion of the contacts. Add some white grease (not a lot) to it before reassembly. It does not interfere if there's not to much.
Again - the grease is supposed to be there....
People have stopped repairing things and just swap parts til it works now
I am impressed.
Great Video!
Dielectric grease is best as lithium will conduct a small voltage. It depends on the year but GM software would count the High-Low amperage signals on the motor. Make sure the blend door moves, line shaft to motor and bolt in place. Turn key on and do not touch the HVAC controls. It sweeps the blend door to note open, then closed. Once done, install covers. Like a convertible Corvette, once you hit open or closed, it rolls windows down 10mm. Once complete, it rolls up the window. They use 3,4,5 and two wire actuator depending on year, model and features. Even Cadillac uses a grill sensor to sense hydrogen sulfide and HC. When high, it closes the recirculating door to blower fan to eliminate outside air from entering. Crazy! DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, ACDelco 4hr tech seminars on 28 subjects in 7 states. Retired.
Multiple places at multiple times have quoted me over a $G to fix this because "it's so hard to get to". Will be looking into it myself now thanks.
Thanks for the post! My '15 Cad ATS was quoted 10.8 hrs of labor/$2k to replace the mode actuator. My DIY brain won't let me go that road. :-)
It has been a while since you posted this video but what's funny is I currently have a customer who has a rear AC problem with A blend door and I have a hunch that it might be the actuator that's quick enough for me to do to see if that might be the problem you might have saved my customer a few $100 from the parts to my Labor and being without a car for however many hours thank you.
I have been fighting this problem since new on my 07 silverado dealer replaced under warranty several times until warranty expired the said it had to many miles The hardest part was finding a 6 mm socket cleaned silicone off contacts and replaced thanks for simple exp,ain staying cool
If you have the 4-5? wire actuator usually, the big gear crack and trows the timing off. If you glue the crack and set the timing its good.
The way i set the timing is: remove the first gear that comes off by hand. It has long splines and connects the large gear to the motor (tru the other gears.
Now, notice the blue gear. It has 2 dots on it. To set the timing these dots need to be lined up with the large gear at the end of the travel of the large gear. You are going to have to push the large gear off the splines some so you can adjust it.
The way it works is: the blue gear is connected to a potentiometer. As the gear moves, it changes the resistance sent to the chip on the board. When it reaches certain threshold, it stops.
The failure happens when the large gear cracks, and allows the blue gear to spin “out of timing”.
There are no gears available, but i always had luck repairig them. If you have multiple cracks or missing teeth, just remove the gear and rotate it so the “bad part” is away from the blue gear. It only rotates just over 1/4 turn, so it shouldn’t affect it.
PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE REPLACING ANYTHING!
I could have saved you all your money and practically all your time. Before removing the actuator always tap on it first. Very rarely would you need to replace one believe it or not. It's winter here and the heat was only coming out on the passenger side so I accessed the driver side actuator but instead of removing it I tapped on it with a ratchet extension and you can actually hear the gear turn to free itself. Then I set temp to hot and BAM! the hot air came out both sides but mainly the side I needed it. I had it fixed in the time it only took to remove and reinstall the lower panels about 15 minutes total time.
So always tap on them first, they usually just get hung up from only moving them once from winter to summer season. Also works reverse, if it's only blowing out hot and you need cold do the same thing, plus it's nearly impossible to get the actuator out in the first place, you have to work around steel brackets. That would suck. My method usually always works, Good luck!
This just fixed mine, saved me hours bro thank you
This worked for me. Thanks. 😅
My trailblazer is doing the same. All vents blow cold except for the driver side. I am going to take the ideas from your video and give it a shot.
hi any result on ur trailblazer? got same issue here
Appreciate the intelligent info., makes GOOD TOTAL SENSE! Haven't started this "hopefully small" project yet, do2 recent major surgery, but as a retired LOCKSMITH that ran a FULL SHOP that installed alarm systems& replaced DOOR ACTUATORS only professional suggestion I could add is spray contact(s) w/ELECTRONICS PARTS CLNR, Q-tip(2remove grease), then spray again(2remove possible cotton),set in sun 2dry & finish by usin' pencil eraser"new only",stroking top2 btm, (2remove residues). I jus' hope on my 06 suburban LTZ Z71,it's the same&, is as easy2access (&DO) as vids show.Tnx again4 the simple COMMON SENSE FIX!! May even take video of my repair!🤔
I have 2005 Silverado with same problem. Your way is excellent but I went to the junk yard and bought one for $6.00 and fixed mine. That is an option if that helps anyone as well. Great vid!!!
I have two cars with the actuator problem, can't wait to try this. Thanks so much.
Did it work?!
@@5nuccs my 03 Thunderbird was actually a dual control valve under the hood by the radiator. My other car the actuator want the problem, I had to evacuate the A/C system and refill it. Then it worked fine. Both had the blend door symptoms , but that wasn't it.
Thank you my friend, seems to have fixed my issue. 👍
Thx. Will try today. I'll update when done
Nice. I tried to pause on the original part number of your actuator to look it up, no success. Thanks for the video.
Great job my man!! And thank you for the info, it helped big time!
Your the best bro. Just fix my own on a acura tsx 2004. Could find any in stock. Great thanks and appreciation
Great video thanks for sharing this information!
Thanks for the information...I'll give it a try!
My 99 Chevy silverado is blowing out cold where it is stuck on cold and want switch over which actuator do I need to fix the problem
Excellent advice
Thanks...I tried this and it worked for a few days but started again. I guess I need to replace it.
Thank you very much 👍
All vents blowing hot but compressor is ok. Any thoughts ?
Thank you from NJ.
Same exacta thing on H2. THANK YOU.
What was the correct part # I'm having the same issue in my 2004 Escalade. Hot air coming through the vents when a/c is on. I did the recalibration trick and had it work for awhile.. now it's just completely out.
I'm going to check this out
At 2:35, a dog decides he needs to be in the video.
Definitely going to give this a try!
Donna Chilton
I have a 2013 sonic and the temperature works fine but it’s stuck on blowing through the vents instead of the floor or defrost. Don’t really know what to check
Good and smart idea thank you
Thanks for the video I will try to clean contacts
I have an actuator that just squeeks at me non-stop. Not sure which one it is.
Brilliant
Does it matter how u put the gears back in after u cleaned it??
great job, saved me a lot of time
Thank you sir
Awesome thank u!!
I ended up just unplugging it when it was blowing cold air so far that's worked... Doesn't get very cold in the "winter" down here
r Scar on the passenger side under the dash there is a power connector...I started my truck and just unplugged it as it was blowing cold air and I’ve been driving around like that for some time. There is a video somewhere on TH-cam showing the exact position.
I did the exact same thing. I did all the "rest" processes and nothing worked. Bought a new actuator and it never worked. I set the actuator to the line to the right, which is cold and left the power connector unplugged and it's staying cold. It a band-aid not a permit fix but works for me.
If you have a Ford Fusion 1st or 1.5 gen this is the same actuator and cleaning it seems to solve the issue with one side blowing hot and the other not (or similar issues). That being said the car has TWO actuator I believe the other one on top is to control things like defrost and air over your feet and such.
Does anyone know the size of the fasteners holding the actuator motor in place? The passenger side panel, under the glovebox is 4 7mm fasteners, but the motor fasteners are smaller. Anyone know the size?
Hi, how i can reset it or calibrate it? Or where is located his fuse? i have a chevy cruze 2011 ltz
Thanks
$chu-ching, 3 min. Video ( WELL DONE) = $100 and $300 Labor, LOVE youtubers like this !++
10000 in labor
Hello, How i can test that actuator outside the car?
Probably a good idea to put a dielectric grease on the wiper contacts. They sell it at auto parts stores as “bulb grease.”
…and, yes, it does work for wiper contacts. The same guys that sell DeoxIT even sell a dielectric grease specifically for use in wiper-contact potentiometers: FaderLube.
Thank You!!!!!!
cool man!
mine does some weird squeaky noise i guess i need to open and find out why it is doing that noise
Im gonna give it a shot..
Mine seems to be blowing cold and hot on the drivers side while the passenger side blows cold. Sometimes the drivers will turn over to full heat. Going to try this today.
This will fix your issue. See my reply above.
My 2005 Suburban is blowing front hot with AC on and cold rear. My question, you fixed the actuator but did all front vents blow cold air upon reinstalling actuator? Thx again
Yes, car vents all blew properly after repairing
My van has air blowing but not out of the vent, only the defrost and floor. It had been sitting for a few months. Do you think it could be the same thing? Or maybe mice made a home in something?
It's definitely not the same actuator I showed in my video, as there is a separate one that controls the direction of the air. If the air stops on the defrost/floor, but you don't get air out of the vents, then you have an obstruction. If it never stops somewhere, it's probably the actuator. There are other videos out there that show how to recalibrate your actuators that may be helpful.
When I put it back in I only put one bolt back in! Inner one impossible to put back in!!
Is it still working? I see the video is from 2016. I have the same thing going on..
Repair is still holding up, over 2 1/2 years later! No issues
How do you know which actuator it is?
Google/TH-cam is your friend here if you don't have access to a service manual. There are plenty of videos showing replacement of all the actuators, and how to access them. I'd have to say, this one is the easiest to get at.
When you re-assembled the actuator, did you line up with center line or any certain way ?
No, I don't think so. I think this part self-calibrates itself.
....some have clock marks on the shaft side.
well.. my truck sat for years before i got it. been an on going battle with it. it wasn't happy with the new belts and ac tensioner this week i suppose. i got a face full of full blast heat last night. aug isn't a good time of year for that lol. the ac leaks a bit into the cab of long trips with higher humidity. not too concerning, i have a rubber mat and been putting off blowing the drain out... stepper motor is screwed now. this is exactly what i done before coming here and it didn't work. just kept on cranking... took the cover off and watched it, right off the the pcb.. might have been the die electric grease i tried but they're cheap on amazon..a temporary fix for those in my situation, take the cover off and use grease to hold the gears in it. remove the last gear, top one and turn the hub, for lack of better term, to where you want it. put the last gear back in place and snap it together. then leave it unplugged. there are videos showing how to reset the computer on here as well, this too didn't help me.
We have a 2013 chevy sonic, and we believe this is the problem with it. We need to find the location of the A-Box. Do anyone know of youtube video that can show us the location of it and walk us through it.
i have a 2002 gmc sierra and the air venys dont push air out only the vents that are to defrost the windows push air out...is the blend door actuator the issue or something else??
Your mode door actuator might be the problem. It's located to the right slightly up from the throttle pedal. Check if it's moving when changing air direction.
Do you know where that is on a H2. Have same ploblem!
Same place? I think they use the same HVAC setup.
I got the same thing for 12 bucks free shipping eBay motors. Apologies if I've already mentioned this but I'm pretty damn ecstatic. I hate it for the auto parts shops. Not sure how they're still in business
I have been told if you have broken gear(s), you can buy the cheap one an rob the gears to put in either the 3 or 5 pin actuator that you already have.
I had the same problem on mine! I cleaned mine and it still keeps overtaking and the contacts move off the board.
I paid 17 bucks for mine on amazon!!
Thanks gonna try self repair first, if that does not fix issue will replace.
That part is not $100 ... it’s $30 or less I just replaced mine
5 of them where the other 4 then huh?
In the future don't bounce the camera all around and just back out the lens so you don't have to move all arond the place..
VOLUME!!!
You started by saying the actuator you were needing to replace was on the drivers side and then you showed you were on the passenger side of the vehicle.
This actuator, that controls the driver side vents, is located on the passenger side.
Disconnect negative battery terminal;
Leave de-energized for 10 minutes;
Reconnect then set controls to middle position;
Set key to on but do not start;
Leave it that way for over a minute likely 2 or 3 minutes + apply antioxidant to the wiring harness connector contacts ~ then drive the vehicle into dry levy bank and abandon where I can get it now that you have it running
Dammmmmm, I just spent close to $500 in ACDelco parts, then $200 to mechanic to replace them 😡😡😡😡
This job shouldn't be more than $200 at an honest dealer for the actuator I replaced. Some of these are much more difficult to access though. For the parts alone, it sounds as if you got taken for a ride.
@@raterus They replaced all four of them. 3 were in tight spots
@@pedropunjabi7339 Oh, all 4? That's not too bad of a price then. $200/labor is a steal as they require areas of the dash to be removed, as well as the 4th is in the back of the car under the trim.
Good try. Somewhat informative. Would give you a better opinion if you would zoom out the camera a bit, dude! At least I got something from it.....
your audio is very low. cannot understand what you are saying. sorry.