Very small thing and probably doesn't matter given metal strength today. You should use the rear brake with chain to loose and tighten the front sprocket, not in gear. You could potentially damage the gear if you torque it this way. Never ever heard it happening to anyone but it's the correct practice.
I’m very OCD and I would personally prefer to loosen the front sprocket by using the rear brake, even though there is no proof that loosing it while in gear has any effect on the gearing. But for the purpose of the video I usually try to stick to what the manufacturer recommends. And for removing front sprockets, manufacturers always recommend doing it in gear. I doubt they have the chain installed when they torque the front sprocket in the factory. They probably torque it while the engine is still off the bike frame. But if you consider the amount of forces the gears take from the engine, a lil bit of 50Nm gradual wrench force wont affect it. Again, with that said, if I was not recording I would probably use the brake method, just to satisfy my ocd 👌✌️
I can’t confirm it but I believe the engine height can be adjusted. But that would affect the antisquat not the wheelbase. Unless with height adjustment it also pivots the engine front or back.
I got it from Amazon. They sell multiple options of them. But I still had to modify it with a drill to turn it in an angle I wanted. It was a pain to do. I think I’ll make a video on how to set it up.
@@kenbilling9507 If you maintain the chain it can last for thousands of miles. Some liter bikes like the Panigale V4r I believe, come with a 520 chain from the manufacturer. 520 chains can handle 200+ whp.
It looked like you didn't put grease on the link pins only seals' surly spining the rear wheel quicker will increase speedo reading, did you torque front sprock bolt, was that nm or pounds rear sprock bolts? Nm seems excessive, could of saved even more wight by going 1t les f,sprock and standard rear in the 520 chain with 1or2 les links? I clean of old locktight and apply fresh, ah' sooo many questions 😅 ive just brought one and am thinking of doing similar 44t rear, i think these bikes are way to long geared for a naked, keep up the good work.
@@richardwoodhouse8397 When you put lube on the pins and insert them in the chain link, the lube is wiped off by the chain link rim. So only some lube passed through. So only by touching the pin with lubed fingers is pretty much enough lube for it to pass through. You could place some lube on the rim of the chain link and have the pin push it in. That would push a little more lube in. But either way it’s good to go. I torqued the front sprocket nut and the rear sprocket nuts at 50Nm. Thats what the manufacturer calls for. It’s not excessive. Sure I could save some grams by going one tooth down front and keeping the rear stock teeth, but that would give me a higher gear ratio that I wanted. 43T rear is already too much. I’m doing 42T on the next video install for forged wheels. Yes ideally it’s better to clean the red loctite and apply new. But red loctite is strong as it is. I never had a problem reusing bolts with red loctite. Don’t do 44T rear. It’s too much. At best do 43T. The front lifts like crazy at 43T. ✌️
Im prepping to take it for a first ride as I’m typing this comment and I will upload a video review of the setup. A 520 chain and sprocket combo is significantly lighter in rotational mass. This alone should make the bike accelerate faster but I don’t think it would make such a difference that you could feel it. Going up on teeth on the rear sprocket will definitely make the bike accelerate faster and will probably be very noticeable. Now how much? I will find out in a little bit. Stay tuned ✌️
On the website I included in the description, they confirm fitment for this kit from 2016 to 2022. Well that would include 23 and 24. But you should be fine with your 2019.
The stock gearing 16/41 is meant for speeds over 200mph. There is no local track that has long enough straight for me to utilize that speed. For the street, aside of the fact that it’s illegal to reach these speeds, I never have the “need” to reach 200mph other than maybe adrenaline rush, ego satisfaction or content creation. In other words, it’s an unusable speed. By increasing two teeth on the rear, it gives you better throttle response in very low speeds and RPM. Think city rides and traffic rides. The RSV4 is kind of sluggish on very low rpm. It also increases overall acceleration. For canyon rides I can momentarily reach speeds up to 140-150mph max. I’d rather get to that speed faster than have over 200mph top speed. I don’t know what the top speed will be with the larger rear sprocket, but I know for sure it will not be under 180mph. Thats more than I could ask. I will do a ride review next and give feedback on the entire setup.
@@fibrex_942 So you did the 520 conversion but stayed at 16/41 stock gearing? I’m curious if you felt a difference just by going from 525 to 520 with no gearing change. Any difference in throttle response on low RPM? Or was there no difference at all?
@@ALFAVITAGA yes sir i did the 520 conversion and yes i felt way way smoother on low rpm without loose the top speed . I was thinking do the same like u but i think it becames very nervous after i would loose that smooth feeling that latest rsv4 have on low rpm i had a 2010rsv4 factory and that vike was pissed in every rpm range i bought the latest 2024 time attack factory rsv4 and i didnt want to have same feeling so i just change to 520 but same as the oem tooth so it felt more nervous but not in the stage i didnt like or remind me my old rsv4 factory
@@fibrex_942 Thats good to know that the 520 alone does make some difference. I guess I’ll find out how it feels when I take it out on a ride tomorrow. ✌️
Very small thing and probably doesn't matter given metal strength today. You should use the rear brake with chain to loose and tighten the front sprocket, not in gear. You could potentially damage the gear if you torque it this way. Never ever heard it happening to anyone but it's the correct practice.
I’m very OCD and I would personally prefer to loosen the front sprocket by using the rear brake, even though there is no proof that loosing it while in gear has any effect on the gearing. But for the purpose of the video I usually try to stick to what the manufacturer recommends. And for removing front sprockets, manufacturers always recommend doing it in gear. I doubt they have the chain installed when they torque the front sprocket in the factory. They probably torque it while the engine is still off the bike frame. But if you consider the amount of forces the gears take from the engine, a lil bit of 50Nm gradual wrench force wont affect it. Again, with that said, if I was not recording I would probably use the brake method, just to satisfy my ocd 👌✌️
@@ALFAVITAGA Yea 99.9% chance it doesn't matter. the engine produce more torque than 50nm so I highly doubt 50nm would damage the gear in stationary.
That the stock factory gearing. That chain looks sooo sick. I might have to copy you. Your color is perfect for it. My factory is way too colorful.
Gold chain is always a must! Wait stock gearing on the Factory is 16/43???
@@ALFAVITAGA sorry I was off by 1. It is 16/42
gold chain looks fancy!!!
💯👌
as i read somewhere , there's a way to changing wheelbase by adjusting frame corner. Only Rsv4 have this function
I can’t confirm it but I believe the engine height can be adjusted. But that would affect the antisquat not the wheelbase. Unless with height adjustment it also pivots the engine front or back.
do you notice a change in vibration not using the dampened sprocket?
@@beauflow There is no change in vibration. I’m not sure what you mean by dampened sprocket.
@@ALFAVITAGA didn't the oem front sprocket have some rubber on it?
@@beauflow Ok I thought you were referring to the rear sprocket. No change in vibration with non dampened front sprocket. ✌️
Off topic question but where did you get the mount for you insta 360 stick for the rear foot pegs? Thanks.
I got it from Amazon. They sell multiple options of them. But I still had to modify it with a drill to turn it in an angle I wanted. It was a pain to do. I think I’ll make a video on how to set it up.
@@ALFAVITAGA thanks bro! I’d definitely be interested in a video. Want to do it myself.
Can you send me the link to them?
@@TheSamwise2009 These are the ones I used: a.co/d/hpLT7UP
@@ALFAVITAGAplz make a video. I’m running a similar setup but don’t really like the angle of mine.
Hi how long does this conversion last. And are the chains able to handle the 200hp bikes ?????
@@kenbilling9507 If you maintain the chain it can last for thousands of miles. Some liter bikes like the Panigale V4r I believe, come with a 520 chain from the manufacturer. 520 chains can handle 200+ whp.
It looked like you didn't put grease on the link pins only seals' surly spining the rear wheel quicker will increase speedo reading, did you torque front sprock bolt, was that nm or pounds rear sprock bolts? Nm seems excessive, could of saved even more wight by going 1t les f,sprock and standard rear in the 520 chain with 1or2 les links? I clean of old locktight and apply fresh, ah' sooo many questions 😅 ive just brought one and am thinking of doing similar 44t rear, i think these bikes are way to long geared for a naked, keep up the good work.
@@richardwoodhouse8397 When you put lube on the pins and insert them in the chain link, the lube is wiped off by the chain link rim. So only some lube passed through. So only by touching the pin with lubed fingers is pretty much enough lube for it to pass through. You could place some lube on the rim of the chain link and have the pin push it in. That would push a little more lube in. But either way it’s good to go. I torqued the front sprocket nut and the rear sprocket nuts at 50Nm. Thats what the manufacturer calls for. It’s not excessive. Sure I could save some grams by going one tooth down front and keeping the rear stock teeth, but that would give me a higher gear ratio that I wanted. 43T rear is already too much. I’m doing 42T on the next video install for forged wheels. Yes ideally it’s better to clean the red loctite and apply new. But red loctite is strong as it is. I never had a problem reusing bolts with red loctite. Don’t do 44T rear. It’s too much. At best do 43T. The front lifts like crazy at 43T. ✌️
Hey brotha do you have the links to your selfie stick setup. Looks like you mounted it to the rear passenger pegs?
I don’t have anything for the setup yet. Very soon I will make a dedicated video on the setup. The selfie stick is made by Telesin though.
Salut
Ou a tu acheté les protèges cadre et bras oscillant en carbone
Très jolie
I got them directly from my local dealer, but they sell them here too: www.extreme-components.com/en/
Do you feel that the bike is accelerating faster? This effect should be after installing the 520 conversion kit.
Im prepping to take it for a first ride as I’m typing this comment and I will upload a video review of the setup. A 520 chain and sprocket combo is significantly lighter in rotational mass. This alone should make the bike accelerate faster but I don’t think it would make such a difference that you could feel it. Going up on teeth on the rear sprocket will definitely make the bike accelerate faster and will probably be very noticeable. Now how much? I will find out in a little bit. Stay tuned ✌️
what gear ratio did you upgrade to?
In this video I went from 17/41 to 17/43. But I now have 17/42.
Are this the same parts for the 2019 rsv4
On the website I included in the description, they confirm fitment for this kit from 2016 to 2022. Well that would include 23 and 24. But you should be fine with your 2019.
Fantastic guide! Do you feel any difference?
I appreciate it! I actually have not ridden it yet. I will ride it in two days and record a video review on the whole setup ✌️
@@ALFAVITAGA Fantastic! Looking forward to your first reaction video.
Why u add bigger rear sprocket
The stock gearing 16/41 is meant for speeds over 200mph. There is no local track that has long enough straight for me to utilize that speed. For the street, aside of the fact that it’s illegal to reach these speeds, I never have the “need” to reach 200mph other than maybe adrenaline rush, ego satisfaction or content creation. In other words, it’s an unusable speed. By increasing two teeth on the rear, it gives you better throttle response in very low speeds and RPM. Think city rides and traffic rides. The RSV4 is kind of sluggish on very low rpm. It also increases overall acceleration. For canyon rides I can momentarily reach speeds up to 140-150mph max. I’d rather get to that speed faster than have over 200mph top speed. I don’t know what the top speed will be with the larger rear sprocket, but I know for sure it will not be under 180mph. Thats more than I could ask. I will do a ride review next and give feedback on the entire setup.
@@ALFAVITAGA yea i add on my 2024 rsv4 factory same size just 520 conversion im very curious to let us know how it feels
@@fibrex_942 So you did the 520 conversion but stayed at 16/41 stock gearing? I’m curious if you felt a difference just by going from 525 to 520 with no gearing change. Any difference in throttle response on low RPM? Or was there no difference at all?
@@ALFAVITAGA yes sir i did the 520 conversion and yes i felt way way smoother on low rpm without loose the top speed . I was thinking do the same like u but i think it becames very nervous after i would loose that smooth feeling that latest rsv4 have on low rpm i had a 2010rsv4 factory and that vike was pissed in every rpm range i bought the latest 2024 time attack factory rsv4 and i didnt want to have same feeling so i just change to 520 but same as the oem tooth so it felt more nervous but not in the stage i didnt like or remind me my old rsv4 factory
@@fibrex_942 Thats good to know that the 520 alone does make some difference. I guess I’ll find out how it feels when I take it out on a ride tomorrow. ✌️