I ended up doing the same thing as you, grinding the heck out of the intake (what used to be exhaust) lobe until it had hardly any lift. I bet I had that camshaft in and out 50 times! The next stage of developement was putting in a full speed camshaft, instead of the 1/2 speed cam a 4 stroke engine comes with. That way you can get more lift and have better control over the timing. I even tried grinding the diameter of the valve tappet head smaller, but it had more pressure and scrapped into the cam lobe! Experimentation, lots of fun :)
Yeah, it still has plenty of lift, but I ground them so narrow that neither of the valves are open at the same time. I also set the valve lash to 0.060 because I couldn't get it perfect just by grinding the valves. it now has a very heavy cast flywheel on the back and idles around 80rpm at its slowest, and is very easy on my compressor now that it doesn't waste air out the exhaust (intake)
The better way of doing this is putting the air or steam fitting in the spark plug hole and leaving the lobes for the intake alone. The valve springs don't have enough tension in them to hold back much more than about 12-20 psi of air.... But if you put it in the spark plug hole you will get all the beans. The intake valve can remain closed and only the exhaust valve needs to open. Just add the extra lobe to the cam side of the cam and feed it air and you're done. You're seeing losses with the valve springs not holding back the pressure. With the way you did it now you might be able to just remove the tappet for the intake valve and then just feed the air into the plug hole.
Man I love the intertubes. Thought about possibly having an air compressor snowblower instead of gas. Googled converting and voila', get this. You are a really everyday guy buying harbor freight. Love your workshop. Thanks Ghepetto.
Make It double acting by feeding steam in the oil fill hole and spark plug hole.. Use two ball valves as your slide valves . Put cam plates on the fly wheel.
This is awesome! Now you just need to build a boiler and add a generator to one side. You'll be able to survive the apocalypse with all the comforts of electricity. How much torque does it produce?
@@myguitardidyermom212 very true. The oil drain plug must be removed, and then a few strategic holes drilled into the casing for oiling crank, piston, cam and lifters.
It is easier, but less efficient in the sense that when compressed air is continuously added through the spark plug hole, a lot is wasted when the exhaust valve is opened because there is nothing to cut off the supply of new air when it is opened. It works, and is easier, but this way ends up being more efficient for lower power
The welding and all the weld spatter reminds me of when I made extra cam lobes like this, very time consuming and tedious, but it works. I just used the original heavy steel flywheel, and I got it down to fairly low rpm, I even tried a plastic piston ring to lower friction :) A number of years later I dreamed up the "WhirliBriggs" where the crankshaft is held still, and the engine rotates around, like an old Rotary engine from WW1. Whatever you do, NEVER try to turn a Briggs into a Rotary type engine, the crankcase will blow apart and kill someone from the excessive G forces. the WhirliBriggs is safe, as it uses compressed air, like your motor. Not trying to hold you back, or anything, just trying to save your life! I like your vids, and wish I had half of your vid making skills! ...Miles
@@WildfoxFabrication Cool! Probably runs smoother now! I just found your channel and subbed. Have been binge watching a lot of your for about an hr and left a lot of comments lol!
Please note: if you want just to play with, this is great idea to make such conversion, but if you need real air/steam conversion, this is not the right way to do. It's much easier to convert 2stroke by adding special intake valve driven by flywheel cam to achieve short intake time. For the 4 stroke conversion it is stongly needed to turn valve sit to let valve be closed with external pressure, but ICE valves is designed to be closed with internal pressure and just opened with external pressure. So, to make good engine, you need to make intake valve which can be closed at high pressures (like 20-50bar) and this valve should be opened for short period (1/10 of piston movement path). Idea is easy, result is about 10% of efficency with nearly original ICE engine power and half of efficiency. And this will be NOT A TOY
In theory if you ran a hoes off the exhaust to a air tank could you run it until the pressure in both tank equals and then run each tank and increase the run time by fifty percent if you were running it with a air tank and not a compressor
if you have access to a lathe a better way to do this would be to put eqaul size sprockets on both the crankshaft and camshaft and use a chain to connect them.
Oh, one more thing, you should take the silver grass/dirt screen off of the engine, as it will slice you open like no tomorrow. The flywheel fins are bad enough, but the screen is HUNGRY!!! :)
And not one person questioned the lack of lubrication and friction lock up due to introducing moisture into the cylinder and no way to burn it off.....
same fault in all of these. the inlet pipe is too small, there is no power.. and if I were to build it myself, I would put a separate slide valve, I would use such a high pressure that those valves would open from the pressure
Y'all spelled the plural form of gooses wrong on that commercial there Pappy K. .....and how many fkn schools people have to see advertising on until they realize how fkn ignorant it is to pay ANYONE else to know something?
If its the only, surely its the prettiest.
Nice jacked to weld in, highly flameble
I ended up doing the same thing as you, grinding the heck out of the intake (what used to be exhaust) lobe until it had hardly any lift. I bet I had that camshaft in and out 50 times! The next stage of developement was putting in a full speed camshaft, instead of the 1/2 speed cam a 4 stroke engine comes with. That way you can get more lift and have better control over the timing. I even tried grinding the diameter of the valve tappet head smaller, but it had more pressure and scrapped into the cam lobe! Experimentation, lots of fun :)
Yeah, it still has plenty of lift, but I ground them so narrow that neither of the valves are open at the same time. I also set the valve lash to 0.060 because I couldn't get it perfect just by grinding the valves. it now has a very heavy cast flywheel on the back and idles around 80rpm at its slowest, and is very easy on my compressor now that it doesn't waste air out the exhaust (intake)
This is awesome! You also look 9 and 20 years old at the same time
😂 ive been told that before
@@WildfoxFabrication lol
The better way of doing this is putting the air or steam fitting in the spark plug hole and leaving the lobes for the intake alone. The valve springs don't have enough tension in them to hold back much more than about 12-20 psi of air.... But if you put it in the spark plug hole you will get all the beans. The intake valve can remain closed and only the exhaust valve needs to open. Just add the extra lobe to the cam side of the cam and feed it air and you're done. You're seeing losses with the valve springs not holding back the pressure. With the way you did it now you might be able to just remove the tappet for the intake valve and then just feed the air into the plug hole.
so that means on the exhaust stroke there is still steam entering the cylinder through the spark plug hole
Man I love the intertubes. Thought about possibly having an air compressor snowblower instead of gas. Googled converting and voila', get this.
You are a really everyday guy buying harbor freight. Love your workshop. Thanks Ghepetto.
AMAZING project! Steam would probably be more applicable because you can always renew your source of power
Make It double acting by feeding steam in the oil fill hole and spark plug hole.. Use two ball valves as your slide valves . Put cam plates on the fly wheel.
Wait, not sure if it could hold the pressure on the oil side, isn't this how head gaskets work?
Awesome the only vid that actually breaks it down thank you
You can also hook it up to a vacuum cleaner and it would be a single stroke vacuum engine
That's neat as hell I didn't know that could be done.
This is awesome! Now you just need to build a boiler and add a generator to one side. You'll be able to survive the apocalypse with all the comforts of electricity. How much torque does it produce?
To be honest, not much torque. More of a “hey that’s cool!” engine than an actual useful motor.
I'm not convinced this could run on steam without corroding and locking up
@@myguitardidyermom212 just needs an oiler in the spark plug hole then it would be good!
@@myguitardidyermom212 very true. The oil drain plug must be removed, and then a few strategic holes drilled into the casing for oiling crank, piston, cam and lifters.
Try this, more efficient and easier. Air/steam inlet through sparkplug hole. Only valve you need to use is the exhaust.
It is easier, but less efficient in the sense that when compressed air is continuously added through the spark plug hole, a lot is wasted when the exhaust valve is opened because there is nothing to cut off the supply of new air when it is opened. It works, and is easier, but this way ends up being more efficient for lower power
@@WildfoxFabrication correct you are
Nothing better than cast iron steel submersible hydrology pumps
The welding and all the weld spatter reminds me of when I made extra cam lobes like this, very time consuming and tedious, but it works. I just used the original heavy steel flywheel, and I got it down to fairly low rpm, I even tried a plastic piston ring to lower friction :) A number of years later I dreamed up the "WhirliBriggs" where the crankshaft is held still, and the engine rotates around, like an old Rotary engine from WW1. Whatever you do, NEVER try to turn a Briggs into a Rotary type engine, the crankcase will blow apart and kill someone from the excessive G forces. the WhirliBriggs is safe, as it uses compressed air, like your motor. Not trying to hold you back, or anything, just trying to save your life!
I like your vids, and wish I had half of your vid making skills! ...Miles
how do you get the air into the WhirliBriggs? if the whole block is flinging around it would seem a bit more challenging than its worth
Very Cool! Now all you need is a large flywheel for the output shaft to keep the momentum going!
I put one on the day after posting this. Thanks for watching!
@@WildfoxFabrication Cool! Probably runs smoother now! I just found your channel and subbed. Have been binge watching a lot of your for about an hr and left a lot of comments lol!
@@colin_5839 wow thanks! some of the earlier ones are cringy though.
If you wanted to could you change the timing so the engine runs the right way?
I COULD, but since it runs so good how it is I’m just gonna leave it
@@WildfoxFabrication yeah good point, I’m looking into making one of these with a 3hp or a 5hp any good?
yeah either of those will work great
reverse ports for that
great and simple to understand
Well done. Working on one like this now.
Please note: if you want just to play with, this is great idea to make such conversion, but if you need real air/steam conversion, this is not the right way to do. It's much easier to convert 2stroke by adding special intake valve driven by flywheel cam to achieve short intake time. For the 4 stroke conversion it is stongly needed to turn valve sit to let valve be closed with external pressure, but ICE valves is designed to be closed with internal pressure and just opened with external pressure. So, to make good engine, you need to make intake valve which can be closed at high pressures (like 20-50bar) and this valve should be opened for short period (1/10 of piston movement path). Idea is easy, result is about 10% of efficency with nearly original ICE engine power and half of efficiency. And this will be NOT A TOY
Now I’m curious if it would run! Even though I know it wouldn’t
In theory if you ran a hoes off the exhaust to a air tank could you run it until the pressure in both tank equals and then run each tank and increase the run time by fifty percent if you were running it with a air tank and not a compressor
Mine had plastic cam lobes, used epoxy putty to add the second set of lobes
If it works it works 😂 I had a welder so I just figured I’d use it
Saludos mister Ford eres un genio.
Son, you done good! Ever come to Mena, AR and I'll buy you lunch! I'm almost tempted to pay you to make me one
Also from AR , right? Been watching slot of these videos first one I’ve seen make use of both valves and not pump air in threw spark plug.
Why You not change tooth wheel at the same diameter??
Cause that’s way over complicated and requires heavy modification, double lobe works great and is way easier
@@WildfoxFabrication agreed
Thanks for making this video, except for the fact that you defiled an antique briggs &;stratton, haha
if you have access to a lathe a better way to do this would be to put eqaul size sprockets on both the crankshaft and camshaft and use a chain to connect them.
yeah that would be ideal, but all ive got here is a welder, an angle grinder, and a hand drill 😂
thats way harder to do than just adding a lobe
Oh, one more thing, you should take the silver grass/dirt screen off of the engine, as it will slice you open like no tomorrow. The flywheel fins are bad enough, but the screen is HUNGRY!!! :)
I took it off the next day. when spinning it by hand I noticed it was quite sharp so off it went lol.
correct i just got stung by the fins
Yeah but they fail to comprehend the same way you and I do Sir
Dios te bendiga saludos gracias por compartir tu conocimiento y gracias a éste canal de TH-cam , por su trabajo perfecto gracias a Dios saludos.
What’s the music in the video? It’s fiiiiire
I made this song a long time ago. im not particularly proud of it 😂 my newer beats are a lot better
@@WildfoxFabrication WHERE CAN I FIND IT, AND YOUR NEW STUFF, I had no idea you would’ve made it.
@1:35 thank you for explanation
make two fo them and us one for each drive wheel and use stwam bubblng through some oil..
👍😎
Saludos mister Ford como está todo bien todo bajo control viento en popa saludos mister Ford.
Buen día maestro como está lo felicito por su trabajo perfecto gracias lo voy a hacer , así mismo gracias.
And not one person questioned the lack of lubrication and friction lock up due to introducing moisture into the cylinder and no way to burn it off.....
it dosnt happen with 2 modded lobes
Yeah that could be a problem the only issue is I don’t care
Dios te bendiga saludos bien esplicado gracias.
Dios te bendiga saludos bien hecho.
Sounds like it would be easier with a 2 stroke
Gas powered air compressor to compressed air powered engine to pogo stick drive cam crank for rear gear
It's running backwards
Yes it is, I used the exhaust side as the air intake because it was already threaded
Same way v1 rockets were engineered by internal fuel blast rate chemical valves and chassis steel gps guided Raytheon missile fins
i cant tell if hes 12 or 21
a mix of the two
same fault in all of these. the inlet pipe is too small, there is no power.. and if I were to build it myself, I would put a separate slide valve, I would use such a high pressure that those valves would open from the pressure
You definitely should have used anti spatter or masked it off
yeah probably, but it runs great as it is so i’m not gonna mess with it anymore
Pretty cool.......now what
good question lol
Y'all spelled the plural form of gooses wrong on that commercial there Pappy K. .....and how many fkn schools people have to see advertising on until they realize how fkn ignorant it is to pay ANYONE else to know something?
Yeah he's pretty fn bad a$# isn't he...
What are you talking about
👍👍👍👍👍