I’m sitting in the garage now watching this with the wheel off. I’m about two seconds away from putting it back on and going to a shop. I thought this was like ANY other brake job I’ve done. This is very labor intensive.
Thanks for this great video! Did my bearings and brakes today and so many of your tricks worked, especially using the old races to hammer the new ones in. Getting the hubs out of the rotors was the biggest PITA, didn't have an air chisel but a couple of chisels and a hammer eventually did the trick.
Great video, even though I’m not sure I’m gonna tackle this job myself I enjoyed watching you work. The brake job on the 100 series reminds me of doing brakes and rotors on my old Mercedes. Very over engineered. Thanks for sharing!
Very good instructional video, thanks. Just starting to look for why my L/C Colorado 1997 front right brake pads not retracting and gripping the brake disc, looks like a stuck piston (other 3 are retracting OK), the reason for my comments, firstly Use a pair of Mole Grips (vice for you Yanks??) to seal off flexibles, if they are too bad for a vice compressing then they need changing anyway and secondly, you can use a sheet of cling film over the brake reservoir then put the top back on (seals off the breather hole in the rubber top). Thanks to Mr. T., brake nipple seized on v.tight (overtightened !!), get yourselves some Stilson pipe grips on it, (they also grip rounded nuts, etc. I have 4 sets here, from 10inch up to 3ft, otherwise when a spanner slips it will round the lands and so slam ducked) --- a new caliper if you can't bleed the air out. That's all folks from Sunny S W France...update, one piston seized out onto the disk - how the heck do I get the bugger out ??..
If there are making noise or feel gritty. I probably did not need to do it but they were original and had for 250k miles on them. If they are fine, you could just clean them up, add new grease and probably replace the seal.
Thank you for doing all this work and taping it for us. Really good quality video! About to tackle my first brake pad job on my 100 lx
You welcome. Hope it helps and share any other tips once you have done it.
I’m sitting in the garage now watching this with the wheel off. I’m about two seconds away from putting it back on and going to a shop. I thought this was like ANY other brake job I’ve done. This is very labor intensive.
It is very involved. The plus side it that rotors lasted over 100k miles before I needed to do them.
Thanks for this great video! Did my bearings and brakes today and so many of your tricks worked, especially using the old races to hammer the new ones in. Getting the hubs out of the rotors was the biggest PITA, didn't have an air chisel but a couple of chisels and a hammer eventually did the trick.
Glad it helped!
I liked the tip about slicing the old bearing races. I’m about to tear into my 100 series and do the same. Thanks for posting.
All the best!
Great video, even though I’m not sure I’m gonna tackle this job myself I enjoyed watching you work. The brake job on the 100 series reminds me of doing brakes and rotors on my old Mercedes. Very over engineered. Thanks for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed. Yup, the first time I worked on the land cruiser was was impressed by the over engineering and build quality!
Great video, thanks for the tips and tricks to make this job smooth.
No problem!
Very good instructional video, thanks. Just starting to look for why my L/C Colorado 1997 front right brake pads not retracting and gripping the brake disc, looks like a stuck piston (other 3 are retracting OK), the reason for my comments, firstly Use a pair of Mole Grips (vice for you Yanks??) to seal off flexibles, if they are too bad for a vice compressing then they need changing anyway and secondly, you can use a sheet of cling film over the brake reservoir then put the top back on (seals off the breather hole in the rubber top). Thanks to Mr. T., brake nipple seized on v.tight (overtightened !!), get yourselves some Stilson pipe grips on it, (they also grip rounded nuts, etc. I have 4 sets here, from 10inch up to 3ft, otherwise when a spanner slips it will round the lands and so slam ducked) --- a new caliper if you can't bleed the air out. That's all folks from Sunny S W France...update, one piston seized out onto the disk - how the heck do I get the bugger out ??..
Thanks for the pointers!
Lots of info here, but just wanted to do the pads.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video. What size is the lock nut socket?
54mm or 2 1/8 inch. I use a stamped steel 2 1/16 inch socket I got off Amazon and it worked (a little snug). Link in the description
Didn’t have to bleed the brakes since you took the caliper off?
I did bleed them but did not show it in the video.
I am about to do this on my 100. Thanks for the video. Have you done the back bearings?
Hope it helps. I have not done the rear bearings yet
What are the indicators that the bearings need to be replaced?
If there are making noise or feel gritty. I probably did not need to do it but they were original and had for 250k miles on them. If they are fine, you could just clean them up, add new grease and probably replace the seal.
👍🏻
What is brand of the meter you have on your steering column?
Scan Gauge 2. I got it for the Transmission temp. But it great for clearing codes, mileage, etc
Why in the world did you disconnect the brake line from the Caliper?
I was replacing the calipers as well
outer bearing faces in or out out?
The same way the existing ones are.
The smaller side on the inner and outer both face in toward the hub.