Make sure if you do this job you have a Bearing Race and Seal Driver big enough for the inner bearing. It is just under 90mm, so an 89mm or 3.5" driver would be perfect. The only kit I could find that had drivers this large is this amzn.to/2miGcgw
Excellent video, thanks for posting. Just did my brakes and bearings today using this video as a step by step. My major hold up was with the cone washers. I had to use spray penetrant a screw driver and a hammer for about 45 min each side to get them all off. Thanks again!
Generally you can tap the bearing races in with a round drift or bar, made from a softer metal than the races. Also just in case people don't know. Before you press the pistons into the callipers make sure your brake master cylinder isn't to full of brake fluid, otherwise it may overflow onto the paintwork. And when finished pump brake pedal until you get a firm pedal. But a very good video.
Thanks for the solid video. Helped a lot when doing the bearings on my comparable landcruiser. Good enough that I'll just link to your video rather than duplicate it.
Wesley, great job but you forgot a very important step, which is to grease the needle bearings inside the spindle and the brass bushing on the backside of the knuckle. I'm also a fan of the fish-scale method for final hub nut torque because it ensures proper preload regardless of the age of your bearings (older, but still usable bearings require much more torque than you would think) but that's less of an issue with new bearings. Thanks for uploading!
Brian Escamilla good call in the needle bearings! I will make sure to do that this weekend! I agree on the fish scale, I have purchased one now so I will have it in the future. I’ve seen guys have to go to 40ftlbs to get 10 lbs of preload on old bearings before.
Shawnee, great video. I will have to do mine this spring. I will use this video, instruction and parts recommended. One questions, is the procedure the same for rear wheels? I have done breaks before, but has not replaced bearings. Thanks in advance. MR
I haven't done the rear bearings in a 100 series before, so I honestly can't say. It would probably be worth looking into all data to make sure you know what you're getting into.
@@shaweehillsworkshop4226 I followed the link in the description..im not sure there's an option for that on there. It just asks for the year make and model on the drop down menu when you try to look for the vehicle. Unless you can direct me to where that option would be when you enter the site?
Rockey Vue yes, on the drop down menu for make, don’t choose “lexus”, right below that is “lexus truck”. Then it will give you another drop down menu. If you still have trouble email me at shawneehillsfarm@gmail.com and I will email you screenshots
57 inch pounds is not the correct torque. That is the starting point and then you torque based on the fish scale. I have never seen a 100 series not need at least 30-35 foot pounds on a new bearing and I’ve seen worn bearings need close to 80. Also you need to pull the axle with an 8x1.25 bolt to set the clearance on the lock ring. It should be as tight as you can get it which is why Toyota sells multiple sizes.
Make sure if you do this job you have a Bearing Race and Seal Driver big enough for the inner bearing. It is just under 90mm, so an 89mm or 3.5" driver would be perfect. The only kit I could find that had drivers this large is this amzn.to/2miGcgw
I will be using this video as my guide when I do my brake job. Thank you. You will be saving me $1000+.
Shout out to the guys/gals that make DIY videos with parts list in the description. You guys rock. Thanks for the video.
Eugene Koval thanks for watching. I really wanted this video to be helpful and am glad that it seems to be! Good luck with your project!
Thanks for taking the time to list all the parts and tools with sizes, new subscriber.
Excellent video, thanks for posting. Just did my brakes and bearings today using this video as a step by step. My major hold up was with the cone washers. I had to use spray penetrant a screw driver and a hammer for about 45 min each side to get them all off. Thanks again!
I’m glad it helped
Just did my front bearings today. This video made the process very simple, thanks for making it!
Great video. But only one nut mentioned on assembly
Generally you can tap the bearing races in with a round drift or bar, made from a softer metal than the races. Also just in case people don't know. Before you press the pistons into the callipers make sure your brake master cylinder isn't to full of brake fluid, otherwise it may overflow onto the paintwork. And when finished pump brake pedal until you get a firm pedal. But a very good video.
Thanks for the solid video. Helped a lot when doing the bearings on my comparable landcruiser. Good enough that I'll just link to your video rather than duplicate it.
You got lucky with those cone washers. Good job.
Fantastic, thank you for sharing, if you can share the outer bearing parking, that will be great.
Wesley, great job but you forgot a very important step, which is to grease the needle bearings inside the spindle and the brass bushing on the backside of the knuckle.
I'm also a fan of the fish-scale method for final hub nut torque because it ensures proper preload regardless of the age of your bearings (older, but still usable bearings require much more torque than you would think) but that's less of an issue with new bearings. Thanks for uploading!
Brian Escamilla good call in the needle bearings! I will make sure to do that this weekend! I agree on the fish scale, I have purchased one now so I will have it in the future. I’ve seen guys have to go to 40ftlbs to get 10 lbs of preload on old bearings before.
Do front axle swap next without removing hub. This will be a great resource.
What is the outer nut torqued to?
Shawnee, great video. I will have to do mine this spring. I will use this video, instruction and parts recommended. One questions, is the procedure the same for rear wheels? I have done breaks before, but has not replaced bearings. Thanks in advance. MR
I haven't done the rear bearings in a 100 series before, so I honestly can't say. It would probably be worth looking into all data to make sure you know what you're getting into.
Your link for description #2 isn't the same snap ring pliers. I have this small blue Irwin. You were using a big red one. Can I have the info on it?
I was using one from an icon set from harbor freight. It’s an 8 piece set that runs about $70
good Job Shawne
Great video buddy!
Thanks man!
How's the koyo bearing going so far with you?
I don't see my 2006 Toyota Land Cruiser on alldatadiy.com? Is the LX470 the same specs?
I don't see our vehicle on alldatadiy. How were you able to purchase from there?
what vehicle do you have?
@@shaweehillsworkshop4226 2005 lx470
Rockey Vue look under Lexus trucks. Lx470 should be listed there
@@shaweehillsworkshop4226 I followed the link in the description..im not sure there's an option for that on there. It just asks for the year make and model on the drop down menu when you try to look for the vehicle. Unless you can direct me to where that option would be when you enter the site?
Rockey Vue yes, on the drop down menu for make, don’t choose “lexus”, right below that is “lexus truck”. Then it will give you another drop down menu. If you still have trouble email me at shawneehillsfarm@gmail.com and I will email you screenshots
good way to keep from going broke when you change your brakes before they break
good job :)
Lol
Thank you!!
Thank you
Glad I could be helpful! Thanks for watching
May I ask the size of your BFG AT tires? Thank you.
Are they 275/70/18?
They are called collets, brass drift only, never hit the outside. I've seen many axles ruined by bashing the flange.
Thx
Hi I live in europe place where we use kilograms and milimiters kilometers. I like your video but we use NM in torq renches :) have a nice day
57 inch pounds is not the correct torque. That is the starting point and then you torque based on the fish scale. I have never seen a 100 series not need at least 30-35 foot pounds on a new bearing and I’ve seen worn bearings need close to 80. Also you need to pull the axle with an 8x1.25 bolt to set the clearance on the lock ring. It should be as tight as you can get it which is why Toyota sells multiple sizes.
Great vid brother!