On industrial engines for case they often don’t use a key on the shaft so we time them with a dial indicator through the back of the case of the pump where all the injector lines go by removing the centre plug. Then you can set the pump exactly where you want… normally way more advance then factory spec due to the tuning they did for emissions
I'd love a video if you have experience in this, modification of a 3rd gen fuel pump module for installation of a draw straw from the fuel basket. Tips in where to trim since 3rd gens don't have a good flat spot to install like 2nd and 4th gens do
Do you know about what you gain by clocking the gear to advance the pump? I advanced mine 2 teeth and turned the pump itself down towards the fender (For access) and have been wondering whereabout my timing is set. Runs damn good with power screw all the way in minus 1/4 turn and HE351CW swap. bosch spring, pin etc
I've got an identical setup in our excavator. We can't quite get enough RPMS. What are the top causes of this? I am purchasing a fuel pressure gauge and timing indicator later today to rule the lift pump/timing out. Thanks and awesome job on these videos!
so if you want to advance the timing with the pump in the stock position line to line location you turn the pump gear clockwise? how many degrees is each tooth ? i just put a new pump in set it up the way my stock pump was and it did zero but crank when i set it in at stock position i had to advance it all the way to the cylinder head and its rumbling like it wants to start retard it and it does zero as i turn it over so it wants to start but needs more time now and i cannot turn my pump any further.
Hey Rob, if I’m running 9mm Bosch bodies with 145 nozzles into 155 bowls on non ic, should I index to C? I currently have it at E, heavy smoke and bog on acceleration but great response at 50mph to 70, especially on grades. Or should I look to adjusting star wheel and smoke screw. Running a 362sxe with wastegate plugged (too big, but will eventually put a hx35 on it)
Hey rob couldn’t help but notice that getrag shifter on the toolbox, and since he switched to a auto, I’m doing the reverse of that, was wondering if you’d sell me that getrag shift knob, I’m on a hunt for one with no luck, I like OEM I know I’m weird lol
Hey Rob quick question, I’m a little lost in the whole VE pump thing do you need to change anything if it’s a VP 44 truck is that VE swap just the pump and across the lines.
@@decentgarage no. I take them off all the time without even putting the engine on tdc. If it was known that it was in time and you just want to mess with the pump or change it you just turn the pump till the key points to the key spot in the gear and stick it back on. This assumes nobody rotates the engine while the pump is off. I generally always take pumps off and on with the engine 180 out form the timing pin so the key in the pump is up and its a lot less likely to fall out.
Hey rob. Thanks for the info. Any tips for a leaky injector pump you need to just limp along until you have the cash to build it up correctly? Fuel additives, etc?
Oven's Garage has a video on a leaky VE pump. I believe the seals were pretty cheap, though. It does require taking the top of the pump off. He replaced the governor spring while he was there to a 3200. Fairly detailed video. He does a good job informing while he records. Good luck brother.
Hey Rob keep up the great videos! Question I’m considering getting a Jetta tdi alh to burn black diesel I have a wvo centrifuge what is your opinion should I go for a 12v instead? I’d prefer to not have a truck. Would the tdi work ok with a dual fuel tank setup?
@@kyuubi9315 as long the key flares out when u tighten the nut up it should be fine. But snug up the nut and pull it off and see how the key is sitting
On industrial engines for case they often don’t use a key on the shaft so we time them with a dial indicator through the back of the case of the pump where all the injector lines go by removing the centre plug. Then you can set the pump exactly where you want… normally way more advance then factory spec due to the tuning they did for emissions
Thanks brother looked every some info but thanks to you its all handled
Hi !! Do you have or can get me the pin and plate you show for indexing ? Mine had alot of ware but don't know where to start looking. Thanks.
@@freddyespinoza8533 send me a email with pic of what your looking for.
Robcutterup@outlook.com
Another great video Rob! Short, sweet, amd to the point.
I'd love a video if you have experience in this, modification of a 3rd gen fuel pump module for installation of a draw straw from the fuel basket. Tips in where to trim since 3rd gens don't have a good flat spot to install like 2nd and 4th gens do
I have done it. But as I don’t work on truck much anymore not sure when I will have one to do. But I will for sure
Do you know about what you gain by clocking the gear to advance the pump? I advanced mine 2 teeth and turned the pump itself down towards the fender (For access) and have been wondering whereabout my timing is set. Runs damn good with power screw all the way in minus 1/4 turn and HE351CW swap. bosch spring, pin etc
We will have hard numbers in the next couple months on the dyno
Man I might have to make one of those sockets that looks badass
I've got an identical setup in our excavator. We can't quite get enough RPMS.
What are the top causes of this?
I am purchasing a fuel pressure gauge and timing indicator later today to rule the lift pump/timing out.
Thanks and awesome job on these videos!
Great video! Can you have the pump 180 degrees out?
Not if you have the stuff lined up and the key way in
Commenting for support!!
so if you want to advance the timing with the pump in the stock position line to line location you turn the pump gear clockwise? how many degrees is each tooth ? i just put a new pump in set it up the way my stock pump was and it did zero but crank when i set it in at stock position i had to advance it all the way to the cylinder head and its rumbling like it wants to start retard it and it does zero as i turn it over so it wants to start but needs more time now and i cannot turn my pump any further.
Looking good Rob. You lose a little wieght ?
40 pounds since January 1st
Hey Rob, if I’m running 9mm Bosch bodies with 145 nozzles into 155 bowls on non ic, should I index to C? I currently have it at E, heavy smoke and bog on acceleration but great response at 50mph to 70, especially on grades. Or should I look to adjusting star wheel and smoke screw. Running a 362sxe with wastegate plugged (too big, but will eventually put a hx35 on it)
Hey rob couldn’t help but notice that getrag shifter on the toolbox, and since he switched to a auto, I’m doing the reverse of that, was wondering if you’d sell me that getrag shift knob, I’m on a hunt for one with no luck, I like OEM I know I’m weird lol
I would have to ask Shae.
It’s his trans. He wants to sell the whole trans so I am not sure he will want to see the the shift knob
Hey Rob quick question, I’m a little lost in the whole VE pump thing do you need to change anything if it’s a VP 44 truck is that VE swap just the pump and across the lines.
What if you pull a ve pump off without pinning it? Is that a problem?
If you put the engine to tdc and the pump is pinned it should go right in
@@CUTTERUPROB I'm curious more for removing a stock pump. If the engine is at tdc and you remove the pump does the pump need to be pinned?
@@decentgarage no. I take them off all the time without even putting the engine on tdc. If it was known that it was in time and you just want to mess with the pump or change it you just turn the pump till the key points to the key spot in the gear and stick it back on. This assumes nobody rotates the engine while the pump is off. I generally always take pumps off and on with the engine 180 out form the timing pin so the key in the pump is up and its a lot less likely to fall out.
@@bcbloc02 that's a fabulous idea to do it 180 out! Thanks for the info Brian!
Is a leaky pump a bad pump or can replacing leaking seals fix it
Sometimes you can just replace the seals. Just depends on if it’s worn
@@CUTTERUPROB I'm trying it thanks for comment
Rob, will advancing the timing, let's say two teeth affect mpg? Thanks
In the right application. But I would just do in tooth and pull the pump back
I am going to some testing and show the timing changes on the range of power on the ve trucks
@@CUTTERUPROB thanks, tht would be awesome
Hey rob. Thanks for the info. Any tips for a leaky injector pump you need to just limp along until you have the cash to build it up correctly? Fuel additives, etc?
Oven's Garage has a video on a leaky VE pump. I believe the seals were pretty cheap, though. It does require taking the top of the pump off. He replaced the governor spring while he was there to a 3200. Fairly detailed video. He does a good job informing while he records. Good luck brother.
Best to find out the spots it’s leaking see if a seal fixes it. I guess I should do a video on that subject
@@CUTTERUPROBThat'd be awesome. I'd love to see your angle on it. Thanks brother.
Hey Rob keep up the great videos! Question I’m considering getting a Jetta tdi alh to burn black diesel I have a wvo centrifuge what is your opinion should I go for a 12v instead? I’d prefer to not have a truck. Would the tdi work ok with a dual fuel tank setup?
The tdi will work. But I would buy a extra set of injectors. So when you clean them you can just swap. And run water meth
Perfect bud thanks
how did you get the key way to stay in there?
If it’s loose. Put Small a center punch mark on it to hold it on the pump side in the key
@@CUTTERUPROB on the back side of it closer to the seal right, so obv doesn't affect the gear going on.
@@kyuubi9315 as long the key flares out when u tighten the nut up it should be fine. But snug up the nut and pull it off and see how the key is sitting
I'm Indian 48 Cummins successful repirt
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