It would be a great ending for someone who owns a painting business just load paint in truck and and drive to job no need to mix paint as your vehicle doubles as a paint shaker
For when you want 2JZ, but you hate Greta Thunberg... 😂 Also, I'd love to OM606 swap my 2nd gen Dakota, but it's not easy to find someone who can swap it without selling your kidney first...
@@Dustrunnersauto If you make one, I would like to help make it as accurate at possible. I was VERY involved in the Mercedes diesel world for awhile(enough to work with companies specializing in them) and there is a lot of misinformation out there.
One thing that you did not mention is that the fuel mileage is really good even in a full sized truck and it is small in size which makes it easy to work on.
compared to what it costs to ride your mom to work every day. Fuel cost is up but so is food haha jk rotten garbage is basically free. Random chad bot? Maybe. If not my bad that was just a perfect setup for an old school burn. Comedy! Good compared to any 6000lb vehicle that gets less that 30-35 mpg, something like that. Ive read 35mpg in a half ton truck city driving not towing. I always thought putting a 4BT in a little S10/Ranger sized truck would be sweet.
@@douganderson7002 if you're considering an engine swap of any kind, the last thing on your mind is saving money. The added mpg is just a handy bonus at the end in this case
I’m a 30 year veteran mechanic and I daily drive an old Ford with a p-pump 4bt. Best engine I’ve ever owned. I run the piss out of it in a 1 ton 4wd truck and it always starts and delivers as much torque as the 460 it replaced with more than double the fuel economy. Need I say more? The shortcomings are only realized by people who are used to living in a bubble. I’ll probably have this rig going till the end of fossil fuels and you’ll probably have owned 4 trucks by then 😝
One thing people miss on the old diesels, there's no ecm, little to no electronics and full mechanical control. It's far easier to adapt those engines to any application than an ecm engine. There's also the difference in mechanics, old school loves being able to diagnose without a scan tool, were as newer mechanics don't know anything without the tool. I prefer old mechanical injection for It's simplicity, I don't want to spend thousands for all the electronic gadgets when it's overly complicating the situation.
right now i have a ISB 3.9 in a F250 2007 (south america), fucking tired of dealing with electronic shit, i need shit to start and move in my truck, not to deal with fucking code 123123432324r out of your ass that puts me in emergecy mode and wont let me go over a bridge, a brand new 4bt is 16k usd, really thinking about swaping, will loose some hp, but ill just go a bit slower and thats it
You can get a 1.9L or 2.0L VW TDI engine weighs about half costs less then $1000 and you can just program the software to have more power then the 4BT.
Your vw engine can make all the hp it wants, but to make reliable hp is what most guys are looking for. The 4bt block, pistons, crank etc are all heavier then a vw therefore the likely hood of your vw being more reliable then a 4bt is not even comparable
My 4bt is out to go into another project but what started out as a get good fuel mileage project turned into one hell of a daily driver/toy (as most projects with good intentions do) The last dyno pull it made at an event was 525HP/936TQ with a little over 100lbs of boost with compounds. I love the little motors, but I will say it will shakes like a paint shaker! Besides all the trans parts I went through, I had several front covers crack, broken motor mounts, and the truck just was much looser after several years of driving. I have always told everyone afterwards that if a 6BT will fit do it... Love them 4Bs though!
They are very good little engines…but they’re so damn expensive now, I don’t believe it’s worth it. To give an example, people have been swapping 4BT’s and 6BT’s into Jeep’s for a long time. To swap a 6BT into a jeep, you have to stretch the engine bay by 4 or 5 inches I believe, which is obviously expensive and time consuming…a 4BT on the other hand fits great…but, because of how much the 4BT’s cost, I believe it winds up costing about the same to swap a 6BT in, and then you’ve got 6BT horsepower and torque. Basically, if it weren’t so damn expensive, every ‘what engine should I swap into my car?’ Conversation would go ‘what engine should I swap into ___’ ‘a 6BT.’ ‘It won’t fit’ ‘a 4BT.’ Left stock, they’re a bit gutless, but bombproof, and you can turn them up to the moon just like a 6BT if you want to.
A 4bt is more expensive than a 6bt because they are rarer. You can do a pretty much stock looking swap with a 4bt. I guess that matters for some and worth the cost
@@joeyscleaninglady2877 exactly. The 4BT’s where basically in skid steers, other small construction equipment, generators, pumps, maybe some marine. The 6BT’s where in all of those applications and automotive, and obviously with the on road use cummins chugged out a pile of them
One more thing… the R2.8 crate for about the same price (or a little less) comes with a fuel pump, fuel filter, oil filter, vacuum pump, alternator and other accessories helpful for a swap. It’s essentially almost a drop in with the exception of dealing with motor mounts (and obviously engine bay and chassis clearances), especially if it were to be a daily driver. The R2.8 is also >200 lbs. *lighter* than a 4BT. That just something I felt was helpful to state. Take that how you will folks.
@@joeyscleaninglady2877 you could probably get a serpentine belt, and the fuel and oil filters from part stores (if they have the correct ones). I’m unsure of the other stuff though.
@@jbmorris2893 it is a chinese market engine you cannot get anything for it locally. Have to order from cummins. 4bt you can get everything from any parts store (basically everything from a 6bt transfers over) be it valve cover gaskets, oil filter, fuel filter, serp belt etc)
I own an engine shop. And all engine fan boys do this. Cummins guys. LS guys. K24 guys. 2JZ guys. All of them. They pick and attain the engine that they oh so desire. Then they talk about those engines like they are the end all be all of the entire universe. Like the engine they love is the baddest shit ever created in the history of the world. And of course any car will instantly and magically be transformed to the best car imaginable if you do that kinda engine swap. What follows is a bunch of fairytales and folklore about their engine, like even with a stock bottom end and 250k miles out of a junkyard that engine will make a million "reliable" horsepower. And every race engine in the world is designed after that engine. And if you mention any of the short comings that engine might have it's just absolute blasphemy. Like you insulted their mother. They just absolutely can't believe you would say such things. Cummins guys definitely fit that bill.
hey man, my stock LS bottom end easily holds 6000hp with 26lbs of boost......you don't know what your talking about LOL j/k youre totally right though, i love hearing the fanboys just go off about how "the best" their engines are and nothing can come close to it. Its delusion at its finest id say!
I mean hey...... Don't they all. LS guys are probably #1 on that list too. And most of them don't even have a real LS. It's usually a steel block 5.3 or 6.0 out of a Tahoe or a Suburban.
I'm sure with the P pump you can get some decent power figures if you really wanted especially when throwing a larger turbo at it but these engines honestly don't really have a place outside utility and equipment applications. That being said, I have always wanted to throw one in a half ton truck just to see what I could do to it.
Not really, you can maybe make 250hp but for the cost you can just import a om605 an easily make 400hp or more. In uk you can get then for a couple grand and it cost about 2k to ship it. So for under 5k you have a 500hp capable motor.
@@WillBilly. 250??? Yeah sure you can make a ton more than that I’ve got a buddy with a twin turbo 4BT in his Dakota I race at the drag strip in my 12V and he makes 500 horse and 1,050 ft lbs at the wheel
@@rpmmcmaster dont believe it for a second, a full drag 4bt only did a 14 @90 in the 1/4 mile. the pump is extremely limited, its hard to push more fuel out of them. the 4bt pump tops out at 230cc and with it being a i4 its just not alot to work with. if your buddy truly has a 500hp 4bt make a video of some dyno and drag runs, it would be the fastest 4bt on youtube.
My family has diesel powered Ram pickups. Both 1500 & 2500. To bad that when common rail technology was introduced with the increased power. That a 4cyl diesel was not a factory option. If a medium duty ZF-8 speed had been used, besides the G56 transmission. The fuel economy would have been awesome. And the power would have been fine, since a mechanical injected 5.9 put out less power than the 3.0L Ecodiesel.
Back in the days we bought bread delivery trucks from auctions for $3k and took the 4BTs out. Cut up the truck for scrap aluminum and got our $3k back 👍
most reliable engine in the world. Drive mine daily no issues at all plus with timing gears vs belt/chain it is basically a no maintenance engine (other than oil changes). I guess the 345 IH engine is similar but that is a gas hog and requires a carb or electronics to make it FI. Name another engine with no electronics (3 wire start) that only requires oil changes and can be run on road and make good power?
As a life long Jeep lover, RPMs and weight reduction are our friend. I would consider the 4BT a downgrade from the Jeep 4.0. The LS is probably making people tired of hearing about it but there is good reason. When you can't even spin your 42s fast enough to clean the tread out you may wish you had went for a gas motor.
@@tonydoggett7627 There's something to be said for a nice torquey little Diesel but newer versions have gotten so complex and being forced to burn the low sulfer stuff that many of their benefits aren't what they used to be. The fuel is hard on injector pumps and Don't even get me started about the price of diesel since our government stopped letting us vote for our President in the US..
@@miketee2444 I have a property 200km’s away and regularly drive over a mountain range to work on it. I own 3 Toyota 4WDS, my 2007 V6 Hilux petrol manual dual cab is the most expensive in fuel for the trip. My other two are 2.8 and 3 litre turbo diesels automatics. that use half the fuel. our diesel is 25% more expensive per litre than petrol. 🇦🇺🦘 (note: there is no longer a petrol option on Australian Toyota 4wds since 2017)
@@tonydoggett7627 That's such bullshit, plenty of petrol 4wds in Australia. And probably soon to be a lot more with diesel being a good $0.50 per litre more than unleaded. Any diesel needs to be substantially better on fuel to be a worthwhile consideration, especially considering all the potential extra costs like DPF's and common rail injectors and pumps that cost a fortune when they break. Also, Toyota petrol engines (and other Jap petrol 4wd engines for that matter) have always been especially horrendous on fuel.
@@moth3rfck3r-s4n besides Jeep and Suzuki what other 2022 petrol 4WD dual range with a chassis can you buy in Australia? The vast majority of 4WD’s sold are diesel in Australia. 🦘
Ever since I’ve been into diesels and I don’t just mean diesels in automotive applications I’ve never understood the hype behind this engine. It’s a great little unit for what they used to cost maybe 20 years ago but for the weight and power I’d take a Deutz air cooled any day over a 4bt.
I like em both, deutzes are cool engines. 4/6bt is simple and does the job. I know rebuilders hate deutzes but I didn't mind doing them,guys hate the assembly/disassembly part when setting up the liner heights/piston protrusion.
Is a miss conception that people think it cost so much to rebuild the 4BT cummins and to make power out of it they have 90% parts compatibility with the 6BT cummins so power can easily be made from the 4BT
I was in sales for Cummins when the B-Series engines were released and the 4-cylinder was a tough sell often because of not having an internal engine balancer and it was being sold against competition that did. It took some special mounting arrangements to keep it from shaking apart the chassis it was installed in. But once that was overcome it was a very reliable and durable engine. Within 10 years of it's release it dominated construction and industrial applications where it was appropriate and probably still does, I've been gone from Cummins for 20 years. The 6BT and TA was much easier to sell and they too dominated their markets within 10 years. Automotive applications grew out of a desire for something more fuel efficient than the gasoline engines in UPS and the like, delivery trucks and of course, the pickup truck market for much the same reason.. The other applications since I don't stay up with.
5:30 you are also increasing bore.... while keeping stroke the same . a larger bore VS stroke is called "over square"...... which EVERY SINGLE modern engine is and its for a good reason . a larger bore gives more surface area for the explosion to push on..... increasing torque at a given RPM (theirfor, increasing HP at a given RPM) also improves MPG improves HP and torque ETC ETC . . like im a BIG gm 400 small block for because of its SUPER large bore and the fact that you can put in a 350 crank..... bore 30 over.... and end up with a 377 . which will rev to 7000+ (AKA amazing HP) and also has a decently long stroke.... so it makes TONS of low end torque (theirfor, low end HP) . . even in stock 400 SBC form..... while not a RPM monster.... it puts DOWN!! the torque..... and gets a bit spicy at red line . and it doesnt get THAT much worse MPG vs a 350.... due to the extra large bore helping with that . . . . also.... the myths about the 400 SBC overheating..... piston speed.... rod ratio..... bearing speed....ETC are just that.... myths . other motors use the same size bearings..... and last 500,000 miles and ya, their is a BIT of "side force" due to the rod/stroke ratio..... but modern oil prevents that wear (and it really wasnt an issue anyway.... lasts just as long as any 350) . and the overheating,....... ya, when you swap in a 265HP (stock with a 2 barrel carb) into your 140hp 305 car..... and keep the 305s tiny radiator.... sure.... its gonna overheat . but a 350 would as well (just not as bad.... as the 400 makes WAY more HP and torque than any 350 ever made..... besides SOME corvette 350s) . . . . the 400 is the king of the small blocks . and if you think its a bad design..... ill gladly take that "pos" off your hands
Running one in my 1942 Dodge - milage is crazy on the flats. The vehicle weight is 7000lbs dry and 4 tons loaded - it does top speed of 70 miles and hr at about 2400 RPM on 40 inch tires. Best milage is 29.8 running at 60mph on the free way. Downside is the darn thing is noisy, noisy, noisy and vibrates like heck. I would love to balance one and switch from the VE pump to a P pump. I run compound turbos and have the waste gate open at about 25lbs, the pump is untouched and the engine runs clean. Pulled the pan and at 60,000 miles there was not a spec of muck in the bottom of the block. Going up hills? She ain't fast, but it sure crawls nice in the bush. Fuel? You can run pretty much all sorts of stuff to get by and you can not do that with a lot of the new rigs.
You can buy a balancer from Cummins. It bolts to the bottom of the crank main caps and sits in the oil pan. It gear driven from the crank. At least you could when it was first released and for 20 years thereafter.
I have the 4b Cummins(no turbo) in a 1990's Case 1840 skidloader. I'm really enjoying the ability to buy parts for it at local auto parts stores. I tell them I have a 1990 Dodge pickup, and most everything fits without an issue.
@@RohanSanjith I've wondered what a turbo would do for this loader. It would be a tight fit, but should be possible. I formerly had a 1835c Case loader, which is the same frame size, but with a Teledyne engine instead. The torque curve on this Cummins was phenomenal compared to the Teledyne, despite similar horsepower ratings(55-ish).
Hear me out. Imagine the 1/2 ton diesel market was big in the 90s like it was recently and u have F150s & C/K 10s with little diesels. How bout a Ram 1500 with a 4BT?
The Isuzu 4BD1T is the same displacement, HP and torque as a 4BT Cummins but is lighter, has even less issues, vibrates less, and is just as tunable, plus all models come factory with an inline pump. Not to mention they are much cheaper and easier to rebuild.
I built an entire honda crx suspension, engine, paint, built to 400hp rated with turbo. For less than 14k including the price of the car. So 16k for just a rebuilt engine is way to much.
Not comparable. I paid $500 for my first LS Swap. Diesels are expensive. It’s often better to buy the vehicle that has the engine you want and pull it out. Sell everything you don’t need.
@@562skillz lol o how wrong you are. Take a look at bring a trailer and then insert your foot into your mouth. A stock 91 crx si just sold for 30k. Its all about finding the right buyer. Plus I'm not trying to sell it. I built it because i love it and have always wanted to build one myself. So i did.
Don't buy an airplane then. You'll be severely disappointed when you pay 13k to get a 65hp engine rebuilt. Oh,whoops, it was "upgraded" to 75hp spec, but they put that in for free.
We have one at work in a case skid steer for the last 5 years I usually start it up straight to full noise unload a truck with forks then turn it off full noise never ever had an issue with it and everyone else flogs it too, so in my opinion they are great?
If 6BT is the standard Prius swap, then 4BT should be the economy option. Of course my owners manual tells me to knock out the smallest window to unlock the door in case of locking up the keys. Might want snoop around first
I have a tdi that I was thinking about swapping into my jeep but I don’t really like the idea behind the timing belt on the diesels….. but damn for $16k I could damn near make my duramax 800hp.
Swapped my f150, averages 34 in town. Cost me 500 dollars for the engine. There's a reason why they are desirable, used in agriculture, marine, construction, on road, stationary, basically everywhere.
im actually looking into this and keeping it as a hybrid for a truck since I dont need all of that power since the e axles will do 900 hp. the 4bt would just need to make between 30kw and 100kw similar to what Edison motors is doing with the cat c3.6 but not 15k and looking at refurbished motors and as you mentioned crate new motors once I switch the truck to be a ev. using tesla salvage
Depends of how much you're willing to spend and how reliable you want it. There's some even on Amazon if you want to go the cheep route. Kohler makes one but they're hard to get and I don't know much about them. Yanmar makes the best but good luck getting one over to the US.
The only issue i have with this video is it doesn't take into consideration people who are going to build their motor you can buy one a lot cheaper than it mentioned if you want to buy one more worn and totally rebuild and hotrod. The crate motor, well there goes the warranty. also the 4bt also has better market support that you can get part parts to hot rod your motor
I don't get why you'd choose a 4BT for a hot-rodding application. It's little and has all the airflow of a sink drain. Especially if you're pulling out a gas V8, which in all likelihood has a massive catalog of cheap high-performance parts available. I think a 4BT makes sense to grind out a ridiculous number of revenue-earning road miles and idle hours, but it seems like a very odd choice for performance.
Isuzu makes some good ones for projects, and Mercedes is awesome if you want to make power with little weight. Yanmar makes em, Kubota makes em, even cat makes some small ones that'll work great for projects. Finding them's the hard thing.
so, I appreciate the insight you have provided on here. While I am not an expert in the matter you have discussed, I came across this video while I was searching for advice on 4BT 37. KW engine vs Yanmar 34.3 KW engine to equip a smaller than average backhoe loader. The manufacturer gave me a choice between Yanmar 34.3 KW and Cummins 37 KW. To be honest I have no clue how each engine will perform in this backhoe loader. I mainly concerned with performance and replacement parts as opposed to pricing. Do you know which one is best? Thank you
I was spanked by a 4bt at the drag strip rat rod kinda truck. He had the perfect combo of weight, power and traction and I just made tire smoke. The guy pretty much beat everyone.
It's not overrated. Hear me out. It's not a perfect engine, but it certainly has very few objectionable issues. And since most other engines DO have lots of objectionable issues and problems, it's right up there with the 12v as easily-made bomb-proof reliable. That's why it has GOAT status. If you're going to say it's overrated, you have to have some engines in mind that you'd rank higher than the 4BT for its size.
Ha. I have one of those old Hostess trucks. It's a Grumman on an Oshkosh chassis (1991). No idea how many miles are on it (tons). The Ford bellhousing and T18 tranny are still in it. The Cummins half of the bellhousing was special made to bolt up to the original Ford bellhousing. I believe the clutch disc and pressure plate are Ford and the Cummins flywheel was special made to accommodate them.
I bought a 6bt long block for 1500, it came with a hamilton warhead head, I'm currently rebuilding it. Is it expensive? sure compared to a 350 big block but its a diesel. Diesel is expensive period, detroit, fords idi, cummins, BUT they last and are reliable, (if you get the right engine), they last 5 times longer than gas. The after market support is HUGE too, I can get ANYTHING except my block aftermarket right downtothe kdp retainer plate. As far as engines go its damn near impossible to beat the 6bt and 4bt in reliability, power, and repair time.
I'm debating on putting a 4bt cummins in my 1960 Dodge D100 4x4. (Not sure when the W designation came out for 4x4 equipped trucks in the dodge world. Technically itd be a 1960 W100 but idk.) Its either that or I'm just going with a standard 5.2 magnum swap. I want the great fuel economy but the cost is whats really kicking my ass with the idea of it right now.
I would like to hear your opinion on what a different viable engine would be. Im not buying the notion that the R2.8 and 4bt are in the same league when it comes to pushing a 3/4 ton Suburban around. Those 4bt's pushed bread trucks around and were reliable. If you want cylinder liners, i think you need to look to something like isuzu
A lot of people like dropping this engine is small pickups to get over 30+ mpg. A guy I know took out the duramax and did a swap in his mechanic truck for this reason.
Barra motors are expensive now too. I could get a factory turbo model good for up to around 800hp with no issue for 1500 usd, shipping included, same dude hit me with 2500 and 1000 for shipping as soon as adam lz built one
Any 4 cylinder in-line engine, whether it's a gas or diesel are inherit to vibrations more so over a certain displacement size by design. Most are cross-plane cranks. Look at most of the modern or even older designed 4 cyl in-line engines the displacement is generally under 2.5L (150 CI)for that reason. When the ones over that displacement (2.5L or above, some smaller than 2.5L, depends on the maker) will engineer into those engines a balance shaft to counter act the vibrations caused by the design and most of the engines are capable of higher revving (5K or higher rpms which are mostly gas powered, some diesels). Being that 4BT is a 3.9L and a lower revving engine (redline similiar to a 6BT, 3K to 3.5K rpm , operating range around 1K to 2.5K rpm give or take.) Cummins probably for various reasons (cost mainly and for what it is intended for) decided not to engineer in a balance shaft to that engine, but did offer to those who wanted, some type add-on counter balancing kits to help smooth out some those vibrations. Being it's all heavyduty construction (block, head and internels) it could very well handle the vibrations inherit to the design. Whereas other in-line 4 or even 5 cyl engines similiar in displacement(3.9L or less), gas or diesel will mostly have an aluminum head and block (intented overall weigh savings) or cast iron block with an aluminum head so those balance shafts were needed not only for smoothness but to also help extend the service life of those engines.
I feel like your only experience with these engines is based off of what you see on paper. $16,000 for a rebuilt 4bt? I sell 4bt long blocks fully remanufactured with Genuine parts for less than 4k. Fully dressed for less than 8k. Simply adjusting the pump and you've got almost 400ft lbs of torque with the oldest Rotary pump. Is it still overrated? Probably. But at least don't get the facts so misconstrued
The problem with the 2.8 is the updated emissions crap I mean don't get me wrong it can be pushed up 300hp with a mod of the ecu but not something I would use.
I have a 4bta 3.9 l and mine leaks oil from the front crank shaft seal and the timing cover . One question i do have is if a swap it for a 6bta 5.9l will i have to swap the clutch ,? Its my engine is on a 2005 vermeer bc 1800 chipper any good diesel techs in GA? Thanks for the video
The 4bt used to be a cheap dang near indestructible (still is) engine that you could find in a box truck or some other machine in the junk yard for a couple hundred bucks. It’s way over priced now.
Realized this when I built a 1.9 mechanical TDI for my 79 rabbit and got 140hp/240ft pounds at the wheels from a mild setup,just some upgraded injectors and more boost. Not even an intercooler. Now it doesn't start to hook up until 3rd gear and Ive gotten 54mpg hiway,it's usually high 40s around town. Anyone with a TDI that says they get 50+mpg is lying as they've probably got anywhere from 1000-1500 pounds more weight than I have.
@@MrTheHillfolk imperial gallons that the Brits, Ireland, Canada, Australia, New Zealand etc use are bigger than US gallons. US gallon is 3.7L imperial 4.5L Before standardised imperial/US units there used to be different measurements for different liquids, the US standardised on the wine measures while the British standardised on the beer measurements That’s why you sometimes see people talking about 50-60 miles per gallon, they’re talking about imperial gallons. Other than gallons, pints and fl oz US units are all identical to British imperial units so most people have no idea there’s a difference, the 1.9 golf does get 50+ to the gallon easily if everyone is on the same page with which gallon we’re talking about.
I hate it when people crucify Cummins for the kdp. If you’re going to do a video like this you should go over the actual design flaws of the engine. Some examples (5.9 53 blocks) (24v cracking valve seats) (hot vp44) (12v exhaust ears cracking) not something that can be fixed in an hour. Like (kdp) (oil leaks) etc. You made the kdp sound scary. It will not destroy your engine 95% of the time. The crankshaft spins clockwise which makes the camshaft spin counterclockwise. If the pin falls out it will wedge up against the timing case wall and the camshaft gear. Simply busting out the side of the aluminum Time in case wall causing a bad oil leak. Very rarely it can get down in between the crankshaft and the camshaft gear then it will destroy your engine. But Out of the years I’ve worked on Cummins I’ve never even heard of that tho.
Tell me where to find a mechanical engine, diesel powered, makes good power, fits in a ranger, has parts availability and interchangeability with one of the most popular diesel engines on earth, and has better gas mileage than most 4cylinder gas engines
You only mention the issue of the pin and cylinder head, the cylinder head crack is the same in many engines. JOHN DEERE have plenty powertech with cracks in the engine block, plenty here, that's a big issue. I think here where I live is cheap to repair 4BT and it has a long live, like the Perkins 1104, I have a 1104 with 30.000 hs now to repair, and 4BT with more than 20.000 hs. I think you to take a look at the market, geography and aplycations.
16k holy crap. I remember when people bought old box trucks dirt cheap to get the 4bt. Can’t believe anyone would pay that much for a rattly old boat anchor. It’s a good engine but not worth that kind of money.
I have funny story while looking for another Ford Ranger. I found decent 2000 Ranger 4x4 and guy asked what I was going to do with it. I'm putting my V8 in from my very rusty 99 Ranger. Guy said I wouldn't do that it will ruin it WHAT. I would put in Cummins 4BT engine I'm like that will certainly ruin the truck. My god 4BT around 800 pounds, plus going through bs building mounts, getting adapter to make trans fit, fuel system, you name and keep 4x4. Plus dealing with cold weather and gelling. Nose heavy truck plow like dump truck in snow. V8 from 2001 Explorer whole thing plug and play in 99 to 2001 Ranger as long as you use AWD. I'm using Ranger t-case. V8 far lighter and torsion bars are the same as V8 Explorer just have to turn adjusting screws in. I'm Cummins certified, I deal with gelled trucks so why would I want all headaches for my winter vehicle............... Yep he wouldn't sell it to me said his grandpa wouldn't like that he was diesel engine guy. It was his grandpa truck he died year before. It all started in my 99 ranger, to 03 ranger and now 05 ranger. I did rebuild engine before putting it in 05 because it had 260000 miles on it. DIdn't really need rebuilt either was very little wear. Cyl #8 had some more wear injector leaked fuel on that cyl
As you mentioned the 4BT is over priced, but for an equally good solid diesel that's not over priced try a Nissan (Datsun) SD22 or the SD24. They are also 4 cylinder'd diesels and they are awesome engines. Aloha........................
It may be underpowered (stock), and a little overpriced I do want to swap a 4bt into a Ram 1500 2nd gen with a 5 speed....just because I can. You do bring up very valid points mind you.
BACK IN 2010 I HELPED A FRIEND DROP A 4BT INTO A OLD SQUARE BODY S10..THESE 4BTS WERENT THAT EXPENSIVE BACK THEN COMPARED TO 6BT .THING LOOKED RELATIVELY STOCK TO AN UNTRAINED EYE ID IMAGINE. TOO BAD THAT LIL TRUCK WAS SUCH A TURD BC THE DRIVETRAIN/ENGINE WAS A SUPER COOL SETUP.
Best thing about a mechanical diesel like these us efficiency and you can literally run them on any fuel. Straight motor oil trans fluid if running thicker oils you can thin it with gasoline.
Is there a mechanical pump conversion for the 3 cylinder VD TDI motors? The older cars are now 25 years old and legal to import to the U.S.A., but just the motor would be sweet for a Geo Metro swap
@@timothykeith1367 yes the bosch ve pump vw modified there slightly different they also made p pumps with not just 4 and 6 inline but more n less the tdis can when mechanical are the best fk e/p/a/ no wires fix yourself no problem when shit hits fan you need a mechanical deisel the vee dub can get near 50 a gallon of what ever filterd oil you stick in as long as it is not to thick n cold or thin because it lubes pump
What do you think? Is the 4BT overrated or not?
yes the r2.8 engine is alot better with half the displacement
Yes. The weight alone makes it a poor choice for engine swapping into anything but a pickup.
Cummins has the r2.8 just as reliable and more power and tourqe the 4bt is overrated af
Vw 1.9 Tdi can easily make way more power.
Fraction of weight.
3x economy.
Same piston design
Same injector pump.
HALF displacement.
For shame
It would be a great ending for someone who owns a painting business just load paint in truck and and drive to job no need to mix paint as your vehicle doubles as a paint shaker
4BT is underpowered and overpriced imo, id rather swap an OM606 because just as reliable and much more power.
not as much torque though. om606’s don’t make shit for torque.
DieselPumpUK does some crazy stuff w the OM606
I might have to make some OM606 videos next 🤔
For when you want 2JZ, but you hate Greta Thunberg... 😂
Also, I'd love to OM606 swap my 2nd gen Dakota, but it's not easy to find someone who can swap it without selling your kidney first...
@@Dustrunnersauto If you make one, I would like to help make it as accurate at possible. I was VERY involved in the Mercedes diesel world for awhile(enough to work with companies specializing in them) and there is a lot of misinformation out there.
One thing that you did not mention is that the fuel mileage is really good even in a full sized truck and it is small in size which makes it easy to work on.
compared to what it costs to ride your mom to work every day. Fuel cost is up but so is food haha jk rotten garbage is basically free.
Random chad bot? Maybe. If not my bad that was just a perfect setup for an old school burn. Comedy!
Good compared to any 6000lb vehicle that gets less that 30-35 mpg, something like that. Ive read 35mpg in a half ton truck city driving not towing.
I always thought putting a 4BT in a little S10/Ranger sized truck would be sweet.
@Random guy on TH-cam put one into an excursion and was getting 25mpg. So compared to stock, that's freaking amazing.
This is true
@@douganderson7002 if you're considering an engine swap of any kind, the last thing on your mind is saving money. The added mpg is just a handy bonus at the end in this case
I’m a 30 year veteran mechanic and I daily drive an old Ford with a p-pump 4bt. Best engine I’ve ever owned. I run the piss out of it in a 1 ton 4wd truck and it always starts and delivers as much torque as the 460 it replaced with more than double the fuel economy. Need I say more? The shortcomings are only realized by people who are used to living in a bubble. I’ll probably have this rig going till the end of fossil fuels and you’ll probably have owned 4 trucks by then 😝
One thing people miss on the old diesels, there's no ecm, little to no electronics and full mechanical control. It's far easier to adapt those engines to any application than an ecm engine. There's also the difference in mechanics, old school loves being able to diagnose without a scan tool, were as newer mechanics don't know anything without the tool. I prefer old mechanical injection for It's simplicity, I don't want to spend thousands for all the electronic gadgets when it's overly complicating the situation.
I agree. I'm old school. My boy loves the vomputerized engines, so in a way we make a pretty good team!
Indeed I have no interest in an electronically controlled diesel.
And the old mechanical engines are alot less problematic, and alot more dependable, and overall cheaper to work on!!
right now i have a ISB 3.9 in a F250 2007 (south america), fucking tired of dealing with electronic shit, i need shit to start and move in my truck, not to deal with fucking code 123123432324r out of your ass that puts me in emergecy mode and wont let me go over a bridge, a brand new 4bt is 16k usd, really thinking about swaping, will loose some hp, but ill just go a bit slower and thats it
I've never seen anyone buy a 4bt for 16k, maybe 1 to 2 k for a decent block and a few hundred more for a rebuild kit.
Remanufactured from Cummins factory with a warranty is about 10-15k so I can see it.
Great video, al so true. The 4bt is great and does great mpg, but its popularity has made it irrationally expensive.
You can get a 1.9L or 2.0L VW TDI engine weighs about half costs less then $1000 and you can just program the software to have more power then the 4BT.
My 4b is over 500hp please show me a tdi that makes that reliably
I'm with you all the way VW and be riding with a pocket full of money 💰 won't have to worry about me and a 4bt motor yall can have them !!
Buts its a vw not a cummins
@@jagg5474 I'd rather a 3-51 dd
Your vw engine can make all the hp it wants, but to make reliable hp is what most guys are looking for. The 4bt block, pistons, crank etc are all heavier then a vw therefore the likely hood of your vw being more reliable then a 4bt is not even comparable
the best Engine Cummins ever built was a N14. hands down! and I am a diesel mechanic now for 30years ++++
Couldn't agree more. Saw one go a million miles when I turned wrenches.
My 4bt is out to go into another project but what started out as a get good fuel mileage project turned into one hell of a daily driver/toy (as most projects with good intentions do) The last dyno pull it made at an event was 525HP/936TQ with a little over 100lbs of boost with compounds. I love the little motors, but I will say it will shakes like a paint shaker! Besides all the trans parts I went through, I had several front covers crack, broken motor mounts, and the truck just was much looser after several years of driving. I have always told everyone afterwards that if a 6BT will fit do it... Love them 4Bs though!
That's the problem their not balanced they shake like he'll
They are very good little engines…but they’re so damn expensive now, I don’t believe it’s worth it. To give an example, people have been swapping 4BT’s and 6BT’s into Jeep’s for a long time. To swap a 6BT into a jeep, you have to stretch the engine bay by 4 or 5 inches I believe, which is obviously expensive and time consuming…a 4BT on the other hand fits great…but, because of how much the 4BT’s cost, I believe it winds up costing about the same to swap a 6BT in, and then you’ve got 6BT horsepower and torque.
Basically, if it weren’t so damn expensive, every ‘what engine should I swap into my car?’ Conversation would go ‘what engine should I swap into ___’ ‘a 6BT.’ ‘It won’t fit’ ‘a 4BT.’ Left stock, they’re a bit gutless, but bombproof, and you can turn them up to the moon just like a 6BT if you want to.
A 4bt is more expensive than a 6bt because they are rarer. You can do a pretty much stock looking swap with a 4bt. I guess that matters for some and worth the cost
@@joeyscleaninglady2877 exactly. The 4BT’s where basically in skid steers, other small construction equipment, generators, pumps, maybe some marine. The 6BT’s where in all of those applications and automotive, and obviously with the on road use cummins chugged out a pile of them
One more thing… the R2.8 crate for about the same price (or a little less) comes with a fuel pump, fuel filter, oil filter, vacuum pump, alternator and other accessories helpful for a swap. It’s essentially almost a drop in with the exception of dealing with motor mounts (and obviously engine bay and chassis clearances), especially if it were to be a daily driver. The R2.8 is also >200 lbs. *lighter* than a 4BT.
That just something I felt was helpful to state. Take that how you will folks.
And if you have any issues chances are high that Cummins will cover it
you can't even get parts at the parts store for that you have to order it from cummins.
@@joeyscleaninglady2877 you could probably get a serpentine belt, and the fuel and oil filters from part stores (if they have the correct ones). I’m unsure of the other stuff though.
@@jbmorris2893 it is a chinese market engine you cannot get anything for it locally. Have to order from cummins. 4bt you can get everything from any parts store (basically everything from a 6bt transfers over) be it valve cover gaskets, oil filter, fuel filter, serp belt etc)
I wish Toyota would put that engine in the Tacoma
The 4bt and 6th were designed to be cheap, but due to popularity it has become more expensive than it’s worth
I own an engine shop. And all engine fan boys do this. Cummins guys. LS guys. K24 guys. 2JZ guys. All of them. They pick and attain the engine that they oh so desire. Then they talk about those engines like they are the end all be all of the entire universe. Like the engine they love is the baddest shit ever created in the history of the world. And of course any car will instantly and magically be transformed to the best car imaginable if you do that kinda engine swap. What follows is a bunch of fairytales and folklore about their engine, like even with a stock bottom end and 250k miles out of a junkyard that engine will make a million "reliable" horsepower. And every race engine in the world is designed after that engine. And if you mention any of the short comings that engine might have it's just absolute blasphemy. Like you insulted their mother. They just absolutely can't believe you would say such things. Cummins guys definitely fit that bill.
hey man, my stock LS bottom end easily holds 6000hp with 26lbs of boost......you don't know what your talking about LOL j/k
youre totally right though, i love hearing the fanboys just go off about how "the best" their engines are and nothing can come close to it. Its delusion at its finest id say!
I mean hey...... Don't they all. LS guys are probably #1 on that list too. And most of them don't even have a real LS. It's usually a steel block 5.3 or 6.0 out of a Tahoe or a Suburban.
Pretty clever knowledge, thanks bro
I can totally believe that. When you do mention the short coming of any those engines, those guys get pretty defensive.
I guess I am biased as I grew up in Columbus Indiana, but nothing beats a hummin Cummins, ha!
I'm sure with the P pump you can get some decent power figures if you really wanted especially when throwing a larger turbo at it but these engines honestly don't really have a place outside utility and equipment applications. That being said, I have always wanted to throw one in a half ton truck just to see what I could do to it.
Not really, you can maybe make 250hp but for the cost you can just import a om605 an easily make 400hp or more. In uk you can get then for a couple grand and it cost about 2k to ship it. So for under 5k you have a 500hp capable motor.
Look up 4bt Ford ranger. He was making massive power with p pump and twin turbo.
@@WillBilly. 250??? Yeah sure you can make a ton more than that I’ve got a buddy with a twin turbo 4BT in his Dakota I race at the drag strip in my 12V and he makes 500 horse and 1,050 ft lbs at the wheel
@@rpmmcmaster dont believe it for a second, a full drag 4bt only did a 14 @90 in the 1/4 mile. the pump is extremely limited, its hard to push more fuel out of them. the 4bt pump tops out at 230cc and with it being a i4 its just not alot to work with. if your buddy truly has a 500hp 4bt make a video of some dyno and drag runs, it would be the fastest 4bt on youtube.
I have a 4bta in a piece of logging equipment , that thing is extremely reliable , starts 1/4 turn wether it’s zero or 90 out , good on fuel etc
My family has diesel powered Ram pickups. Both 1500 & 2500. To bad that when common rail technology was introduced with the increased power. That a 4cyl diesel was not a factory option. If a medium duty ZF-8 speed had been used, besides the G56 transmission. The fuel economy would have been awesome. And the power would have been fine, since a mechanical injected 5.9 put out less power than the 3.0L Ecodiesel.
Back in the days we bought bread delivery trucks from auctions for $3k and took the 4BTs out. Cut up the truck for scrap aluminum and got our $3k back 👍
And...why?
@@jean-paulmorin913 free engine
most reliable engine in the world. Drive mine daily no issues at all plus with timing gears vs belt/chain it is basically a no maintenance engine (other than oil changes). I guess the 345 IH engine is similar but that is a gas hog and requires a carb or electronics to make it FI. Name another engine with no electronics (3 wire start) that only requires oil changes and can be run on road and make good power?
vw 1.9 AAZ
As a life long Jeep lover, RPMs and weight reduction are our friend. I would consider the 4BT a downgrade from the Jeep 4.0. The LS is probably making people tired of hearing about it but there is good reason. When you can't even spin your 42s fast enough to clean the tread out you may wish you had went for a gas motor.
with the exception of jeep, every 4WD in Australia is turbo diesel 🙂🦘
@@tonydoggett7627 There's something to be said for a nice torquey little Diesel but newer versions have gotten so complex and being forced to burn the low sulfer stuff that many of their benefits aren't what they used to be. The fuel is hard on injector pumps and Don't even get me started about the price of diesel since our government stopped letting us vote for our President in the US..
@@miketee2444 I have a property 200km’s away and regularly drive over a mountain range to work on it. I own 3 Toyota 4WDS, my 2007 V6 Hilux petrol manual dual cab is the most expensive in fuel for the trip. My other two are 2.8 and 3 litre turbo diesels automatics. that use half the fuel. our diesel is 25% more expensive per litre than petrol. 🇦🇺🦘 (note: there is no longer a petrol option on Australian Toyota 4wds since 2017)
@@tonydoggett7627 That's such bullshit, plenty of petrol 4wds in Australia. And probably soon to be a lot more with diesel being a good $0.50 per litre more than unleaded. Any diesel needs to be substantially better on fuel to be a worthwhile consideration, especially considering all the potential extra costs like DPF's and common rail injectors and pumps that cost a fortune when they break. Also, Toyota petrol engines (and other Jap petrol 4wd engines for that matter) have always been especially horrendous on fuel.
@@moth3rfck3r-s4n besides Jeep and Suzuki what other 2022 petrol 4WD dual range with a chassis can you buy in Australia? The vast majority of 4WD’s sold are diesel in Australia. 🦘
Ever since I’ve been into diesels and I don’t just mean diesels in automotive applications I’ve never understood the hype behind this engine. It’s a great little unit for what they used to cost maybe 20 years ago but for the weight and power I’d take a Deutz air cooled any day over a 4bt.
I like em both, deutzes are cool engines.
4/6bt is simple and does the job.
I know rebuilders hate deutzes but I didn't mind doing them,guys hate the assembly/disassembly part when setting up the liner heights/piston protrusion.
Older VW diesels are also pretty good actually. 1.9 TDI PD: Cant kill em!
Is a miss conception that people think it cost so much to rebuild the 4BT cummins and to make power out of it they have 90% parts compatibility with the 6BT cummins so power can easily be made from the 4BT
I was in sales for Cummins when the B-Series engines were released and the 4-cylinder was a tough sell often because of not having an internal engine balancer and it was being sold against competition that did. It took some special mounting arrangements to keep it from shaking apart the chassis it was installed in. But once that was overcome it was a very reliable and durable engine. Within 10 years of it's release it dominated construction and industrial applications where it was appropriate and probably still does, I've been gone from Cummins for 20 years. The 6BT and TA was much easier to sell and they too dominated their markets within 10 years. Automotive applications grew out of a desire for something more fuel efficient than the gasoline engines in UPS and the like, delivery trucks and of course, the pickup truck market for much the same reason.. The other applications since I don't stay up with.
There was a balance shaft version. They are rare but I’ve built a couple and they are a lot smoother.
Why the hell would they even make it unbalanced? Just for cost or simplicity?
To get the rigidity and head seal with wet sleeves, would necessitate an engine roughly the size and weight of a 4.5l Deere.
5:30 you are also increasing bore.... while keeping stroke the same
.
a larger bore VS stroke is called "over square"...... which EVERY SINGLE modern engine is
and its for a good reason
.
a larger bore gives more surface area for the explosion to push on..... increasing torque at a given RPM (theirfor, increasing HP at a given RPM)
also improves MPG
improves HP and torque
ETC
ETC
.
.
like im a BIG gm 400 small block for because of its SUPER large bore
and the fact that you can put in a 350 crank..... bore 30 over.... and end up with a 377
.
which will rev to 7000+ (AKA amazing HP)
and also has a decently long stroke.... so it makes TONS of low end torque (theirfor, low end HP)
.
.
even in stock 400 SBC form..... while not a RPM monster....
it puts DOWN!! the torque..... and gets a bit spicy at red line
.
and it doesnt get THAT much worse MPG vs a 350.... due to the extra large bore helping with that
.
.
.
.
also.... the myths about the 400 SBC overheating..... piston speed.... rod ratio..... bearing speed....ETC
are just that.... myths
.
other motors use the same size bearings..... and last 500,000 miles
and ya, their is a BIT of "side force" due to the rod/stroke ratio..... but modern oil prevents that wear (and it really wasnt an issue anyway.... lasts just as long as any 350)
.
and the overheating,....... ya, when you swap in a 265HP (stock with a 2 barrel carb) into your 140hp 305 car.....
and keep the 305s tiny radiator....
sure.... its gonna overheat
.
but a 350 would as well (just not as bad.... as the 400 makes WAY more HP and torque than any 350 ever made..... besides SOME corvette 350s)
.
.
.
.
the 400 is the king of the small blocks
.
and if you think its a bad design..... ill gladly take that "pos" off your hands
Running one in my 1942 Dodge - milage is crazy on the flats. The vehicle weight is 7000lbs dry and 4 tons loaded - it does top speed of 70 miles and hr at about 2400 RPM on 40 inch tires. Best milage is 29.8 running at 60mph on the free way. Downside is the darn thing is noisy, noisy, noisy and vibrates like heck. I would love to balance one and switch from the VE pump to a P pump. I run compound turbos and have the waste gate open at about 25lbs, the pump is untouched and the engine runs clean. Pulled the pan and at 60,000 miles there was not a spec of muck in the bottom of the block. Going up hills? She ain't fast, but it sure crawls nice in the bush. Fuel? You can run pretty much all sorts of stuff to get by and you can not do that with a lot of the new rigs.
You can buy a balancer from Cummins. It bolts to the bottom of the crank main caps and sits in the oil pan. It gear driven from the crank. At least you could when it was first released and for 20 years thereafter.
You are Correct.
Unbalanced, Rattles, Heavy
I have the 4b Cummins(no turbo) in a 1990's Case 1840 skidloader. I'm really enjoying the ability to buy parts for it at local auto parts stores. I tell them I have a 1990 Dodge pickup, and most everything fits without an issue.
Put a big turbo
@@RohanSanjith I've wondered what a turbo would do for this loader. It would be a tight fit, but should be possible.
I formerly had a 1835c Case loader, which is the same frame size, but with a Teledyne engine instead. The torque curve on this Cummins was phenomenal compared to the Teledyne, despite similar horsepower ratings(55-ish).
Hear me out. Imagine the 1/2 ton diesel market was big in the 90s like it was recently and u have F150s & C/K 10s with little diesels. How bout a Ram 1500 with a 4BT?
The Isuzu 4BD1T is the same displacement, HP and torque as a 4BT Cummins but is lighter, has even less issues, vibrates less, and is just as tunable, plus all models come factory with an inline pump. Not to mention they are much cheaper and easier to rebuild.
I built an entire honda crx suspension, engine, paint, built to 400hp rated with turbo. For less than 14k including the price of the car. So 16k for just a rebuilt engine is way to much.
Not comparable. I paid $500 for my first LS Swap. Diesels are expensive. It’s often better to buy the vehicle that has the engine you want and pull it out. Sell everything you don’t need.
You will never get that kind of money for a Honda B,D,K,or H series even mint condition from Japan
@@562skillz lol o how wrong you are. Take a look at bring a trailer and then insert your foot into your mouth. A stock 91 crx si just sold for 30k. Its all about finding the right buyer. Plus I'm not trying to sell it. I built it because i love it and have always wanted to build one myself. So i did.
Don't buy an airplane then.
You'll be severely disappointed when you pay 13k to get a 65hp engine rebuilt.
Oh,whoops, it was "upgraded" to 75hp spec, but they put that in for free.
@@MrTheHillfolk damn lol i definitely wont be buying a plane anytime soon for sure.
We have one at work in a case skid steer for the last 5 years I usually start it up straight to full noise unload a truck with forks then turn it off full noise never ever had an issue with it and everyone else flogs it too, so in my opinion they are great?
what would a better option be for a mechanically timed small footprint diesel engine be that makes more power?
Pretty much any mercedes diesel ever built
Om606 merc
More power less wheight and less noise
If 6BT is the standard Prius swap, then 4BT should be the economy option. Of course my owners manual tells me to knock out the smallest window to unlock the door in case of locking up the keys. Might want snoop around first
In my experience with them they always ran, but made no power,got really pissy when the Temps went up or down but worked great as a pump engine.
Yeah they're basically a shittier CAT 3304. They're decent and run forever while taking abuse in industrial applications
@@melvingibson4525 had plenty of those too...
afc or p pump easy to turn up, but yea stock they are dog slow. But turning a couple screw driers and you can get 140hp easily
Keep up the good work man. Good videos
I have a tdi that I was thinking about swapping into my jeep but I don’t really like the idea behind the timing belt on the diesels….. but damn for $16k I could damn near make my duramax 800hp.
If you replace that timing belt religiously every 100k you'll never have an issue
Fuck that I’ll run my 7.3 powerstroke
Swapped my f150, averages 34 in town. Cost me 500 dollars for the engine. There's a reason why they are desirable, used in agriculture, marine, construction, on road, stationary, basically everywhere.
im actually looking into this and keeping it as a hybrid for a truck since I dont need all of that power since the e axles will do 900 hp. the 4bt would just need to make between 30kw and 100kw similar to what Edison motors is doing with the cat c3.6 but not 15k and looking at refurbished motors and as you mentioned crate new motors once I switch the truck to be a ev. using tesla salvage
Anyone got any pointers to acquire a ridiculously small diesel engine? I'm talking single-cylinder, at most 250cc
military surplus
The German manufacturer Hatz makes so so does Lombardini from Italy
Amazon has 5-14 hp Diesel engines highly recommend
Depends of how much you're willing to spend and how reliable you want it. There's some even on Amazon if you want to go the cheep route. Kohler makes one but they're hard to get and I don't know much about them. Yanmar makes the best but good luck getting one over to the US.
What application? Just curious
Grid heater is over rated. And my 12v don't leak. Fairly sure fords dont like to start without there glowplugs.
The only issue i have with this video is it doesn't take into consideration people who are going to build their motor you can buy one a lot cheaper than it mentioned if you want to buy one more worn and totally rebuild and hotrod. The crate motor, well there goes the warranty. also the 4bt also has better market support that you can get part parts to hot rod your motor
I don't get why you'd choose a 4BT for a hot-rodding application. It's little and has all the airflow of a sink drain. Especially if you're pulling out a gas V8, which in all likelihood has a massive catalog of cheap high-performance parts available. I think a 4BT makes sense to grind out a ridiculous number of revenue-earning road miles and idle hours, but it seems like a very odd choice for performance.
@@JETZcorp not everyone is replacing v8s. But also remember not everyone wants to cut the firewall for most applications
LOL, as a noob in motorsports, if you dislike vibrations i advise you to use tesla cars...never drive traditional engines..
So what do you suggest we use instead?
2.8 duramax or 2.8 cummins
@@rock-uu7qr think we got the money for that lol plus the 2.8 would be useless in a half ton
@@chrishansen7004 how? it provides more power than the 4bt
Isuzu makes some good ones for projects, and Mercedes is awesome if you want to make power with little weight.
Yanmar makes em, Kubota makes em, even cat makes some small ones that'll work great for projects. Finding them's the hard thing.
Om606
so, I appreciate the insight you have provided on here. While I am not an expert in the matter you have discussed, I came across this video while I was searching for advice on 4BT 37. KW engine vs Yanmar 34.3 KW engine to equip a smaller than average backhoe loader. The manufacturer gave me a choice between Yanmar 34.3 KW and Cummins 37 KW. To be honest I have no clue how each engine will perform in this backhoe loader. I mainly concerned with performance and replacement parts as opposed to pricing. Do you know which one is best? Thank you
I would love to have one built for my '89 K5, but the prices have gotten insane...
I was spanked by a 4bt at the drag strip rat rod kinda truck. He had the perfect combo of weight, power and traction and I just made tire smoke. The guy pretty much beat everyone.
It's not overrated. Hear me out. It's not a perfect engine, but it certainly has very few objectionable issues. And since most other engines DO have lots of objectionable issues and problems, it's right up there with the 12v as easily-made bomb-proof reliable. That's why it has GOAT status.
If you're going to say it's overrated, you have to have some engines in mind that you'd rank higher than the 4BT for its size.
Om 606 merc!
From experience
Used to replace ford 300 straight 6's with a retrofit 4bt in Hostess bread trucks.
Ha. I have one of those old Hostess trucks. It's a Grumman on an Oshkosh chassis (1991). No idea how many miles are on it (tons). The Ford bellhousing and T18 tranny are still in it. The Cummins half of the bellhousing was special made to bolt up to the original Ford bellhousing. I believe the clutch disc and pressure plate are Ford and the Cummins flywheel was special made to accommodate them.
I bought a 6bt long block for 1500, it came with a hamilton warhead head, I'm currently rebuilding it. Is it expensive? sure compared to a 350 big block but its a diesel. Diesel is expensive period, detroit, fords idi, cummins, BUT they last and are reliable, (if you get the right engine), they last 5 times longer than gas. The after market support is HUGE too, I can get ANYTHING except my block aftermarket right downtothe kdp retainer plate. As far as engines go its damn near impossible to beat the 6bt and 4bt in reliability, power, and repair time.
Is this all true for the 3.3L naturally aspirated engine as well? Including the dowl pin issue? Thanks
I'm debating on putting a 4bt cummins in my 1960 Dodge D100 4x4. (Not sure when the W designation came out for 4x4 equipped trucks in the dodge world. Technically itd be a 1960 W100 but idk.) Its either that or I'm just going with a standard 5.2 magnum swap. I want the great fuel economy but the cost is whats really kicking my ass with the idea of it right now.
I would like to hear your opinion on what a different viable engine would be. Im not buying the notion that the R2.8 and 4bt are in the same league when it comes to pushing a 3/4 ton Suburban around. Those 4bt's pushed bread trucks around and were reliable. If you want cylinder liners, i think you need to look to something like isuzu
I work in the off road field but I have seen 2 different 4bts send the ballance shaft out the block.
A lot of people like dropping this engine is small pickups to get over 30+ mpg. A guy I know took out the duramax and did a swap in his mechanic truck for this reason.
Swaped duramax for 4BT? It is like swaping 1000 cc superbike for a scooter to get better mpg. Give me a brake.
Barra motors are expensive now too. I could get a factory turbo model good for up to around 800hp with no issue for 1500 usd, shipping included, same dude hit me with 2500 and 1000 for shipping as soon as adam lz built one
Any 4 cylinder in-line engine, whether it's a gas or diesel are inherit to vibrations more so over a certain displacement size by design. Most are cross-plane cranks. Look at most of the modern or even older designed 4 cyl in-line engines the displacement is generally under 2.5L (150 CI)for that reason. When the ones over that displacement (2.5L or above, some smaller than 2.5L, depends on the maker) will engineer into those engines a balance shaft to counter act the vibrations caused by the design and most of the engines are capable of higher revving (5K or higher rpms which are mostly gas powered, some diesels). Being that 4BT is a 3.9L and a lower revving engine (redline similiar to a 6BT, 3K to 3.5K rpm , operating range around 1K to 2.5K rpm give or take.) Cummins probably for various reasons (cost mainly and for what it is intended for) decided not to engineer in a balance shaft to that engine, but did offer to those who wanted, some type add-on counter balancing kits to help smooth out some those vibrations. Being it's all heavyduty construction (block, head and internels) it could very well handle the vibrations inherit to the design. Whereas other in-line 4 or even 5 cyl engines similiar in displacement(3.9L or less), gas or diesel will mostly have an aluminum head and block (intented overall weigh savings) or cast iron block with an aluminum head so those balance shafts were needed not only for smoothness but to also help extend the service life of those engines.
Thanks for the video of a 4BT Cummins it's been a while
years ago i found an old Mazda 2.2l diesel that had like 295ftlbs of torque but i cant find it form searching anymore....
$16k for a rebuilt 4bt? Any Ideas how many junkyard SBC/LS' that you could buy, build and swap for that... Lol.
Im thinking about buying a foodtruck and i think its a 2003 workhorse that has a 3.9 cummins would you recommend buying or staying away
Im not sure if its a 3.9 the listing just says diesel im checking it out tomorow just need some advice
I feel like your only experience with these engines is based off of what you see on paper. $16,000 for a rebuilt 4bt? I sell 4bt long blocks fully remanufactured with Genuine parts for less than 4k. Fully dressed for less than 8k. Simply adjusting the pump and you've got almost 400ft lbs of torque with the oldest Rotary pump. Is it still overrated? Probably. But at least don't get the facts so misconstrued
B family engines are solid as it gets. The 4bt, 6bt and the 8.3 are as solid as they come. Swapping them into a serious off road keep is asinine.
The 8.3 is a C series, not a B series.
How many have you owned and your own problems?
The problem with the 2.8 is the updated emissions crap I mean don't get me wrong it can be pushed up 300hp with a mod of the ecu but not something I would use.
I have a 4bta 3.9 l and mine leaks oil from the front crank shaft seal and the timing cover . One question i do have is if a swap it for a 6bta 5.9l will i have to swap the clutch ,? Its my engine is on a 2005 vermeer bc 1800 chipper any good diesel techs in GA? Thanks for the video
No it's the same
You can’t really list dry cylinders as a con when basically no diesels have liners except the Cummins
Finally someone is talking sense.
I don't understand WHY someone would put 4BT to car. No point at all.
Niw the real question is, what are the alternatives? I am looking at something that will fit into a 1965 International Scout.
How about the Nissan diesel that the late model Scouts had available?
The 4bt used to be a cheap dang near indestructible (still is) engine that you could find in a box truck or some other machine in the junk yard for a couple hundred bucks.
It’s way over priced now.
Just real quick - boring cylinders does SQUAT for displacement. Stroke is where you really gain CI's
Do a cummins R2.8 video!
HP is not where it's at.
Realized this when I built a 1.9 mechanical TDI for my 79 rabbit and got 140hp/240ft pounds at the wheels from a mild setup,just some upgraded injectors and more boost.
Not even an intercooler.
Now it doesn't start to hook up until 3rd gear and Ive gotten 54mpg hiway,it's usually high 40s around town.
Anyone with a TDI that says they get 50+mpg is lying as they've probably got anywhere from 1000-1500 pounds more weight than I have.
@@MrTheHillfolk imperial gallons that the Brits, Ireland, Canada, Australia, New Zealand etc use are bigger than US gallons. US gallon is 3.7L imperial 4.5L
Before standardised imperial/US units there used to be different measurements for different liquids,
the US standardised on the wine measures while the British standardised on the beer measurements
That’s why you sometimes see people talking about 50-60 miles per gallon, they’re talking about imperial gallons.
Other than gallons, pints and fl oz US units are all identical to British imperial units so most people have no idea there’s a difference, the 1.9 golf does get 50+ to the gallon easily if everyone is on the same page with which gallon we’re talking about.
Waht Diesel engin is good and easy to instal in Jeep Xj?
I hate it when people crucify Cummins for the kdp. If you’re going to do a video like this you should go over the actual design flaws of the engine. Some examples (5.9 53 blocks) (24v cracking valve seats) (hot vp44) (12v exhaust ears cracking) not something that can be fixed in an hour. Like (kdp) (oil leaks) etc. You made the kdp sound scary. It will not destroy your engine 95% of the time. The crankshaft spins clockwise which makes the camshaft spin counterclockwise. If the pin falls out it will wedge up against the timing case wall and the camshaft gear. Simply busting out the side of the aluminum Time in case wall causing a bad oil leak. Very rarely it can get down in between the crankshaft and the camshaft gear then it will destroy your engine. But Out of the years I’ve worked on Cummins I’ve never even heard of that tho.
Tell me where to find a mechanical engine, diesel powered, makes good power, fits in a ranger, has parts availability and interchangeability with one of the most popular diesel engines on earth, and has better gas mileage than most 4cylinder gas engines
How about the Cummins isbe 5 4.5 litre 4 cilinder turbodiesel ?
Nothing sounds like the B series. That fast, tight chatter is ear candy for me.
What motor could a person use instead of the 4bt.
How does it compare with deutz air cooled ones
"Doesn't have cylinder liners"... uh, neither does pretty much any light duty diesel engine.
You only mention the issue of the pin and cylinder head, the cylinder head crack is the same in many engines. JOHN DEERE have plenty powertech with cracks in the engine block, plenty here, that's a big issue. I think here where I live is cheap to repair 4BT and it has a long live, like the Perkins 1104, I have a 1104 with 30.000 hs now to repair, and 4BT with more than 20.000 hs. I think you to take a look at the market, geography and aplycations.
Where on earth did you find $16,000usd price?
IDK? I ran into a guy that was tickled pink to have it as a power plant in his Willy's Jeep.
16k holy crap. I remember when people bought old box trucks dirt cheap to get the 4bt. Can’t believe anyone would pay that much for a rattly old boat anchor. It’s a good engine but not worth that kind of money.
Now about its crate successor, the R2.8?
Unfortunately they are a timing chain engine..They won’t have the service life.
Consumer engine versus an industrial engine.
I have both the 2.8 Cummins and 3.2 PSD in Chile and the powerstroke is so much better to drive. We have those here in the vans.
I have funny story while looking for another Ford Ranger. I found decent 2000 Ranger 4x4 and guy asked what I was going to do with it. I'm putting my V8 in from my very rusty 99 Ranger. Guy said I wouldn't do that it will ruin it WHAT. I would put in Cummins 4BT engine I'm like that will certainly ruin the truck. My god 4BT around 800 pounds, plus going through bs building mounts, getting adapter to make trans fit, fuel system, you name and keep 4x4. Plus dealing with cold weather and gelling. Nose heavy truck plow like dump truck in snow. V8 from 2001 Explorer whole thing plug and play in 99 to 2001 Ranger as long as you use AWD. I'm using Ranger t-case. V8 far lighter and torsion bars are the same as V8 Explorer just have to turn adjusting screws in. I'm Cummins certified, I deal with gelled trucks so why would I want all headaches for my winter vehicle............... Yep he wouldn't sell it to me said his grandpa wouldn't like that he was diesel engine guy. It was his grandpa truck he died year before. It all started in my 99 ranger, to 03 ranger and now 05 ranger. I did rebuild engine before putting it in 05 because it had 260000 miles on it. DIdn't really need rebuilt either was very little wear. Cyl #8 had some more wear injector leaked fuel on that cyl
how do they compare to the isuzu 4BD1T?
As you mentioned the 4BT is over priced, but for an equally good solid diesel that's not over priced try a Nissan (Datsun) SD22 or the SD24. They are also 4 cylinder'd diesels and they are awesome engines.
Aloha........................
or the isuzu 4bd1t same displacement as 4bt cummins but a better engine all round
VW engine have a timing belt. My 6BT has 340km. Not internal work has been done. I did fix Killer dowel pin.
Tough motor. 60xt Skidsteer with 11000 hrs still runs great.
You made me feel better about my 90xt with 6000hrs
Cummins took a page from Mercedes-Benz with this engine. I had a 1958 180D that was built in multiple variants for different applications.
What would be a better option?
4bts are straight money makers when attached to the correct equipment. Makes a great air compressor.
It may be underpowered (stock), and a little overpriced I do want to swap a 4bt into a Ram 1500 2nd gen with a 5 speed....just because I can. You do bring up very valid points mind you.
what is the max rpm of the engine and its torque?
The only thing better than an 4BT. Is a 4.5L ISB! Common rail and electronic controls make for more power possibilities!
BACK IN 2010 I HELPED A FRIEND DROP A 4BT INTO A OLD SQUARE BODY S10..THESE 4BTS WERENT THAT EXPENSIVE BACK THEN COMPARED TO 6BT .THING LOOKED RELATIVELY STOCK TO AN UNTRAINED EYE ID IMAGINE. TOO BAD THAT LIL TRUCK WAS SUCH A TURD BC THE DRIVETRAIN/ENGINE WAS A SUPER COOL SETUP.
Best thing about a mechanical diesel like these us efficiency and you can literally run them on any fuel. Straight motor oil trans fluid if running thicker oils you can thin it with gasoline.
Is there a mechanical pump conversion for the 3 cylinder VD TDI motors? The older cars are now 25 years old and legal to import to the U.S.A., but just the motor would be sweet for a Geo Metro swap
@@timothykeith1367 yes the bosch ve pump vw modified there slightly different they also made p pumps with not just 4 and 6 inline but more n less the tdis can when mechanical are the best fk e/p/a/ no wires fix yourself no problem when shit hits fan you need a mechanical deisel the vee dub can get near 50 a gallon of what ever filterd oil you stick in as long as it is not to thick n cold or thin because it lubes pump