Hi Ethan: THANK YOU for calling out Holly weird on the Silk patch thing. Mis-information is the Bane of the novice in ANY hobby, especially Black Powder, where it can be downright dangerous. I'd been into BP since the 70's. A stroke put a halt to that, but I still run my business, making 18th. & 19th. century knives and accoutrements. Keep making your videos. I live for these. God bless: Dave Two Feathers Proprietor of: The Mountain Man Emporium
Muzzleloading was easier to get into when I started nearly 10 years ago, at least in my state. I did spend quite a bit on accessories like powder flasks, measures, cappers, not to mention everything for the ammo: round balls, wads, caps, Ox-Yoke Revolver Seals, cleaning fluid, and so on.
I too started 10 years or so ago, today`s market OOOOF, Now oooof I think I`d pass, I have seen where regular rifle primers are being used, where some actually need smokeless powder, awful confusing these days, Unfortunate most clerks are running for the quick sale and have no clue.
The movie that started the resurgence in muzzleloaders and the hawkens was absolutely Jeremiah Johnson if you have not seen it and you are in to muzzleloaders this is the one. Your videos are awesome!! So much information in them. The movies you mentioned are great but the one that started it all was Jeremiah Johnson from 1972. It was the best thing to ever happen to the young Thompson center co. I have one of there 54 cal.Hawkins I bought 40 year’s ago. When I first got it and was shooting it at the range at 100 yards there were 3 guys shooting there 8 mm Mauser bolt guns and my one inch groups were much smaller than there’s and they couldn’t believe it. The Hawken will still do it but my old eyes will not. Be safe and live free
Yeah I have 45 cal TC Hawkin from 1973 still shoots better than me! And yes JJ got me into muzzle loading. Still watch it on DVD now and then, also the Mountain Men.
I suggest a pre-built rifle kit, get used to working the kit. Get used to shooting. Then if you are handy with tools, then get a built-it kit. I also suggest Side-Loxk Percussion to start. Flint-lock is very tetchy. Knapping flint is a learned skill. I've been using side-lock for 22 years, I don't have the time to learn to knap flint.
You can use Pyrodex in a flintlock. You don't need to put real black powder in first. All you need to do it put real black powder in the pan. People who say you can't are black powder snobs... :)
Elk hunting I shoot heavy conical bullets. Round ball may not give you an exit wound or much blood trail. I shot a 5x5 bull at 17 yards with a T/C 58 cal Big Bore 90gr pyrodex. Bull was facing me and I was above him shooting down hill. Bullet 555gr maxiball entered front chest and exited between anus and his nuts and left a baseball size hole. I had little blood trail, not enough to track anyway. Bull ran Uphill and was found dead 80 yards away.
@@Everythingblackpowder makes cleaning holy black pretty easy in my experience. Water is a little tough to come by for me at times, kinda nice to not need a ton of it lol
I can answer the question if foreign made flintlocks are worth it and the answer is yes. I have two Traditions flintlocks, one is a Tennessee and the other is a Kentucky rifle and I have two Pedersoli flint guns, one is a Cavallerie IX D carbine and the other is an Indian Trade musket. All of them work just fine.
I got extremely lucky when I decided to get back into muzzleloading and found a nearly brand-new Investarms percussion for $150 with caps and ammo, now I feel bad for anyone trying to get into traditional-style muzzleloaders. HUGE jump in price from even a few years ago.
I have OCD so I took the time weighing out 5.5 G of powder= 84.7 grains in individually sealed plastic baggies all 80 shots worth. In your own separate little pouches it's like they did in the civil war when you want to load your gun fast. It's already weighed out ready to go.
If having a fully handmade muzzleloader is a "must have" you could always have the gun shop at Colonial Williamsburg make you one... even the barrel and lock are made on-site by hand. Last I knew they start around $20K. That is perhaps a better option than wrecking an original, irreplaceable, 18th century gun.
YES!! not just on the build or the tools needed. Get to know what makes it go boom. Ammo size, powder loads black powder or smokeless I know they make both these days. Study yourself up good.
Percussion cap hands down.....If you ask me why 😮 just look up some footage busted flints, flints flying off, the number of fails to spark, broken flints with percussion there is more reliability just my opinion
As to the question of Pyrodex in a flintlock, I've loaded the bore with pyro, and primed with 4f black, with no problems. On occasion, I've been forced to use pyro as priming, but it doesn't flash quick enough or hot enough to fire without having a hangfire, but if that's all you've got, and work with it, it'll do. Also, I've heard that if you grind the pyro a bit, and make the granules smaller, it "might" flash quicker, but I haven't tried that myself. In my experience, black powder burns in a flash, but pyro burns almost like smokeless powder, relatively slow.
Hey my friend ETHAN I have a old idea I came up with back in 1987 hunting with my CVA st hawken 50. Cal percussion cap no.11 . I always went hunting back then alot and harvested many deer. But the reason I'm texting you is back then I came up with putting a spent 22 LR caseing over my cap and nipple and let the side lock hammer down on it. Instead of being on half cock I let the hammer down on the back of the empty 22lr shell and with all the dew in fog in the air during the early morning it kept my cap dry and also was a really good safety. I didn't ever have any snap and no boom . Just leave it on until the buck is in sight but make sure you half cock and take the 22 LR caseing off before you shoot your buck or doe because I forgot and left mine on once and my hawken went click and no boom and I missed out on that buck . But that's when I first started using 22lr shell casing for moisture protection and for a really good safety because if you're hammer falls on the shell casing it definitely want shoot! I thought I would tell you this and all other hunters that a spent 22 LR caseing over your cap and nipple is a game changer and a good safety with hammer eased down on it. And don't forget to take it off or it want shoot. Keep them Caps dry and stay safe and good luck hunting. P.S I put a small cord around the 22lr shell casing and fastened it to my trigger guard so I wouldn't lose it or ding on my rifle. Please try it and you will probably be surprised how good it works. Just one of my backwoods survival thing I came up with and I use them till this very day!
If you want an ash plank to make your next gun let us know before you come to shoot with us at Garland Ridgerunner's fall frolic.Willie and Chase have several.
The two elk I have harvested with a .50 cal. muzzleloader were both killed with a 170 grain round ball. Both shots were about 70 yards and both balls passed through the animal. The elk fell dead as if shot by a smokeless rifle.
Try No-Excuses lead bullets for hunting, they sell a sample pack to see what diameter your barrel likes. They are out of Utah. Load a wad under the bullet, a lubed precut wad. Accurate as my 30/06.
I have both traditions and pedersoli. I think you do get better quality with pedersoli. If you just wanna get started cheap traditions rifles are probably more forgiving and cheaper. If you have the money, id go pedersoli just do your research so you dont damage a 1000+ dollar gun.
For an inline I'd use Seven in pellets. A plastic cylinder with the charge at the bottom and the sabot over the top is extra convenient for loading and the barrel can be cleaned with 3 patches. But over time it seems to lose its strength and for a traditional muzzle loader nothing beats black powder, although I have used pyrodex in a cap lock and liked it.
Bought a ton of agate for my alleged “Hawken”,work like a charm,chew a hole in a three inch bullseye at 75 yards.Not historically accurate but what the heck.🎯
Ethan thanks for answering questions that folks who are starting out are curious about. To answer your question about what you would change when you started. I was introduced to muzzleloading when I was 14 years old by my uncle, Ltd. Col Vaughn Goodwin Ret. It took me 55 years to pick it up. I'm glad I did ,I'm sorry I didn't earlier so I could learn from a master. Starting later I learn from other shooters ,from fourms,forums, reading and from instructive pod casts like yours. thanks again for helping educate beginners. Bruce
Honestly, I didn't search for your answer about "silk patches". I heard the "silk patch" warning, when I started BP in 1973. My theory(IMO) is that silk is a PROTEIN, and the burned residue creates a more gummy mess(This also applies to using PETROLEUM-based cleaning products with real BLACK POWDER) I learned (quickly) to use cotton patches(kept in small tub) soaked in PLANT-based lubricants, such as Crisco. Even Oleo Margarine is PETROLEUM(Oleo)-based.FOR clean-up, think of your BP fire-arm as a untensil, use DAWN dish-detergent, HOT WATER for rinse, wipe down w/LIGHTLY applied (BALLISTOL is best---it is plant-based) lubricant, then dry rub moderately. My 1984 CVA ( inline-.50) is still my fav, still running/gunning w/ RB. My 1997 CVA Eclipse .50 is my conical fav, still looks like the week after I bought it(of course I tested it, AND used it, a lot) IMO, even tho BP is more work, the more you learn about it as a whole, the better YOU will shoot!! TY.
Oleic acid is a fatty acid that occurs naturally in various animal and vegetable fats and oils. It is an odorless, colorless oil, although commercial samples may be yellowish. In chemical terms, oleic acid is classified as a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid, abbreviated with a lipid number of 18:1 cis-9. It has the formula CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)7COOH.[2] The name derives from the Latin word oleum, which means oil.
I`ve owned three or four original percussion rifles , and never gave more than $600 for one ! generally they had some rust , and needed a good cleaning , but were easy to bring back to life , and generally were good shooters ! it`s all about being at the right place at the right time !
The only thing that heat does in mirage coming off the barrel. And harder fowling. If the barrel is QUALITY heat will not effect accuracy. Not at the level that is obtained with a ML. I started shooting MLs about 1966.
Been shooting muzzleloaders since about 1991. I've only used real black powder in Flintlocks, and have always used pyrodex or other substitutes in all side lock percussion rifle and pistols as well as in lines. Even in Flintlocks I've used substitute powders behind my ball and real 4F in my pans. It is absolutely safe, but I would never recommend mixing powders together. I've also used pyrodex RS in pistols and P in rifles, and it's not an issue as long as you understand you are getting a more or less dense charge because each is ground to a different granule size. The powder itself is the same powder.
I just bought a buck stalker XT and I'm not really too happy with the pellets I was wondering if there was any chance I could run loose powder under my slug
Everythingblackpowder did a video on myths to. He tried is without blowing up his piece. But, back in the day with forge welded barrels it could have been the truth!
Actually silk patches were actually did use during that time period it give you an extra 50% more range in accuracy with his long rifle that he used because I also use silk patches myself and they give you a lot more accuracy because of the tighter weave then pillow ticking patches pillow ticking patches are just a little tighter going down the barrel but with silk it's almost like lubricating a round ball it's smoother going down and that's what I use in my muzzleloading rifle and gives me another 50 to 60 yards more accuracy down range another 50 to 60 to 80 yards more range actually and with 110 grains of powder that I shoot out of my muzzleloading rifle out of my 50 caliber it increases the velocity way higher than normal and it's a lot easier to load and it's a lot easy to fast load and I use those in my loading blocks for an extra follow-up shot for knockdown power so yeah they did use silk back then because of a tighter weave and pelticking wasn't as frequently as silk was that's why he had so fast of loading because he can put that silk in that round ball put it in that ripe and he can load and run while he was loading while he was on the run running and gunning because he had that silk patch
I'm new to this, your videos are very helpful. Long story below that ultimately talks to pyrodex. I have a TC hawken flinter from the 70s. It didn't work very well when i got it, fired 1 out of 7 tries. The frizzen was like a washboard and it smashed flints. I replaced the cock with the "new" style (redesigned in the 80s) and replaced the frizzen, which required drilling and re tapping the frizzen screw and fitting the frizzen. Now it throws a shower of sparks. I was really excited to get out to the range after all that work and imagine my disappointment to have the pan flash every time but the rifle fire only about 2/3 of the time, and with a long delay. Well, i looked at the bottle of powder i got with it a little closer and it says pyrodex FFG substitute (did i mention I'm new to this). So i see a video about black powder being more reliable and faster ignition, pick up a can of 3F scheutzen and now it's fast ignition, no more holding on target forever, and it seems to fire about 9/10 of the time, maybe better. Moral of the story - Pyrodex in flintlock=bad experience.
P.S I have even took a small black O ring and slippep it all the way to the bottom of the tapper on my nipple and let the 22lr rest against it for a moisture tight seal and I have never had a wet cap sense and I have been hunting with my st.hawken since 1987 and I feel lots easier knowing I have a safety cap over my primer cap and knowing it's going to go boom when I touch the trigger off .
Good luck hunting ETHAN and I like your videos keep them coming and please try the 22lr. She'll casing and fastened a bank line cord to it even if you have to put crazy glue to keep the shell casing and don't forget the black Oring seal to rest the shell casing against with hammer down and your primer cap will be dry . Please write back and let me know what you think of my idea I came up with in 1987 . I harvested many deer using this method to keep my cap dry even in some unexpected rain and it still fired after removing the 22 LR caseing from over the nipple.
The best way to get started in muzzleloader is to read history, 1750 to 1850. Then you will want to get a proper period correct muzzleloader. From there attend rendezvous, re-enactments, and similar events. Talk to the old timers. If you want to hunt with a muzzleloader, then learn to HUNT with a muzzleloader. Don't try to re-invent the long range cartridge. Flintlock shooting is the best, it needs no improvements.
I got in to cap and ball revolvers long before I got into muzzleloader rifles, I wanted an inexpensive entry level rifle and had wanted to buy a Traditions Spring Field Rifle ($300 at the time) but they were always sold out .. One day I was talking with a friend of mine about it and come to find out that he had the exact rifle that his employees gave him as a gift but he never even shot it, he sold it to me for $50 bucks .. People can knock Traditions all they want, I love that rifle, it’s extremely accurate and a great knock about ..!! I have since acquired a T/C Hawken in like new condition with sling and rifle case for $300 bucks ..! Haven’t shot the T/C Hawken yet .. For anyone that wants to get into traditional muzzleloaders I recommend finding one used and go from there, it’s an awesome and fun learning experience and every bit as accurate as any modern day rifle ..! You are your own hand loader ..!!
Again I'm watching a bunch of your past videos and also hoping for some questions answered. When I first bought my traditions I really didn't know that much about the black powder world so I had access to a bunch of Triple 7 substitute black powder and I jumped on it and as time went on I realized that it was nasty. I now have some Swiss and some schutzen, I guess my phone spelled the second one right because it wouldn't respell it in this sentence, and found out that the Swiss was much cleaner as well as the schuetzen black powder so now I'm saving the triple seven until I don't have anything else. I had bought a total of 7 lb 2 f, 3f and 4f and now that I stay halfway broke all the time I can't seem to get stocked up on the real black powder. I'm going to try to make me a tumbler and using everything black powders methods make my own black powder. I have a little over 10 lb of Tire weights to use for my lead balls. I also have a 490 mold, a495 mold and a mold that says 50 caliber of which I haven't measured that one yet. So I'm set up pretty good for shooting I also have pre-made 490 and 495 balls. Oh well I guess I didn't have a question after all but I sure did like the questions and answers you had in this video. Maybe I do have another question are you going to put out any more new videos? Keep ye powder dry!
I recommend you find out the smallest caliber your state allows to hunt with if you want to hunt. My state's minimum caliber is a .50 caliber. Some other states say .45 caliber minimum.
Research just go to the library. But the way I learned was get a gun. Then learn powder types P is pistol FFFG , FFG is rifle, FG Canon. Grease your barrel it's not as hard as people wantothers to believe. Site your gun then "getter done"
Although no longer on TH-cam, Bill Raby’s channel, now on rumble, is fabulous for rifle building information. I think the channel name is Flintlock Rifle Building. Cool video. Thanks!!!
I'm still waiting on the PA type chronicle bullet 240 grain projectile from that I'm still waiting on that and it's also made to be fired out of Kentucky long rifles in flintlocks I want to know what the muzzle velocity of it coming out of a 50 caliber Hawken rifle traditions I'm still waiting on that to see what the muzzle velocity is on that
I was told by a seasoned black powder man that the pellets are synthetic powder unpredictable and not good for your flintlock muzzle loader he had a few barrels come in to his shop that were damaged
Been shooting muzzleloaders since I was 15 back in the 80's. Glorious times back then when you could just walk out to many public lands in TX and shoot. Great info
What caps should I use in my CVA wolf? Just ordered the rifle, my first muzzleloader, and found some triple seven 50 grain pellets, and got some CCI caps but I don't know if they will work!!! Thanks!!
Spit can cause issues if the rifle is left loaded for any length of time, I like well refined beef tallow from kidney fat.PURE Neatsfoot oil for cold weather hunting. Pyrodex is poison to rifle barrels. I have never used it in one of my guns but when working in the BP cartridge industry I learned just how bad this stuff really was from using it in company guns for testing. In guns returned to the factory with “bad barrels” and people using it in competition. Kibler is by far the best choice for someone with limited tools and experience. Iam very experienced but I put all the metal in the wood on a Kibler SMR in 4 hours and 36 minutes everything fit. No sights on the barrel. Har it ready to shoot the next day. Kibler’s stuff is REALLY the way to go. Priming. As Wallace Gusler once said FILL IT UP. If you use as little as possible you WILL have flashes in the pan. I had a REALLY nice rifle (by a MASTER ML gunsmith and engraver) I had to sell it to pay a doctor bill. The new owner then butchered the vent liner. I had NEVER had an issue with flashes, won matches killed deer etc, but he was “just use a little priming guy”. You need a FIRE to get things lit. Overall this is good info.
Try to watch all of your videos and asked the same question in one other one but will repeat it here. Pyrodex ''P'' in a modern inline Magnum rated .50 cal. muzzleloader. Safe in any amount? I only ask because I have a lot of it from my pistol shooting days and would like to get some good out of it. What say you about a reduced load, say 90 grains in a rifle rated for 150 grains of FFg or equivalent. Is the finer granulation really going to produce (that) much more pressure? Something I'd like to see you or someone test.
Hey man, great question. I'm sorry I missed it somehow before. Looking at the data sheet (1)- It looks like the Pyordex P is simply their version of 3F Pyrodex. I'd check the label on the can to make sure there isn't any specific warning about it, but I don't see how it could generate so much more pressure that it would damage the rifle, especially with a reduced load. Looking at the Hodgdon website, I believe the differentiation is to help folks who may not know as much about the powder differentiate between large bore and small bore. The Statement - "Pyrodex P is intended to be a direct replacement for FFFg blackpowder, when measured volumetrically using a black powder measure." is pretty clear to me, and I don't see anything in the safety data warning not to use it in large calibers. That being said, always refresh yourself on the label and start with light loads. (1) - hodgdon.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/2018-pyrodex-sds-new.pdf
I've been muzzle loading for 15yrs started with a tc white mountan carb then I got my lyman plains rifle in 50 cal I use nothing but black powder best cleaning fluid I found is rusty duck black off if your going to shoot round ball you need to check the patch ball seal your patches should be shot out and look like they could be used again for warm weather I use bore butter and in extreme cold I use mink oil over 80g 2f for hunting both hornady great plains bullets or there PA conical over 90g 3ff both shoot excellent
Conicals are greatly overrated and penetration only be “adequate” and yes I have hunted elk. AND they sometimes will slide away from the powder. Not good. AND remember that they were not popular back in the day if you do some reading.
I have an original percussion side lock Muzzleloader with no markings that belonged to my great grandfather and would like to find some history about the rifle.
Plainer half-stock percussion rifles in good shootable condition definitely come up at auction regularly, and so they are still out there. Occasionally you can find a plain original full-stock at a pretty low price too, but you need to keep your eyes out and watch for a deal if you want one for a pretty low price. You’ll definitely want to take a close look at the bore and what not before buying if shooting is your interest in the piece.
IMA still has loads of untouched originals if you have the capability to restore one. I have several guns from them that I restored and are definitely shootable.
I have a couple of suitable originals. I have an old barn rifle that had a rotten and unsafe barrel. I had a new barrel put in it. Original in shootable condition are out there.
I did the same. I found an old rifle at a shop in North Georgia. It had a rotten bore. I shot it a few times but it wasn't safe. So, I had an new barrel out of an old Dixie kit. I had a Smith install it. I need to get out and shoot it. It's not the prettiest rifle but it speaks to me of a by-gone era. Thanks for the video.
I'm not a hunter (used to be) but the thrill of muzzle loaders has grown on me. Thank you for this video! It's amazing to realize that our country was won by using these single-shot monstrosities.
I’m getting started in traditional rifles and I’m having trouble finding black powder. All I can find is Swiss 1.5fg. Will that work in my 50 cal traditions percussion?
1.5 is traditionally a Blackpowder cartridge or musket powder from what I’ve been told. I think it could work for you until you find some 2f but it might foul a bit more while shooting
Thanks. I find your videos very helpful.
Wow! Very kind of you to say, thanks!
Practicing and becoming proficient with your black powder firearms is by far the best way to become a successful hunter
Agreed
My favorite myth is that "You can't hit anything past 50 yards with a smoothbore musket."
That's a good one!
Hi Ethan:
THANK YOU for calling out Holly weird on the Silk patch thing. Mis-information is the Bane of the novice in ANY hobby, especially Black Powder, where it can be downright dangerous. I'd been into BP since the 70's. A stroke put a halt to that, but I still run my business, making 18th. & 19th. century knives and accoutrements.
Keep making your videos. I live for these.
God bless:
Dave Two Feathers
Proprietor of:
The Mountain Man Emporium
Thank you Dave! Great to hear from you!!
It would be nice if you would be so kind as to leave a link or contact info for your business🙂
Rolled cartridges are better than powder pellets.
Muzzleloading was easier to get into when I started nearly 10 years ago, at least in my state. I did spend quite a bit on accessories like powder flasks, measures, cappers, not to mention everything for the ammo: round balls, wads, caps, Ox-Yoke Revolver Seals, cleaning fluid, and so on.
I too started 10 years or so ago, today`s market OOOOF, Now oooof I think I`d pass, I have seen where regular rifle primers are being used, where some actually need smokeless powder, awful confusing these days, Unfortunate most clerks are running for the quick sale and have no clue.
@@taurushipointenthusiast1306 Flash powder is like gold.
The movie that started the resurgence in muzzleloaders and the hawkens was absolutely Jeremiah Johnson if you have not seen it and you are in to muzzleloaders this is the one. Your videos are awesome!! So much information in them. The movies you mentioned are great but the one that started it all was Jeremiah Johnson from 1972. It was the best thing to ever happen to the young Thompson center co. I have one of there 54 cal.Hawkins I bought 40 year’s ago. When I first got it and was shooting it at the range at 100 yards there were 3 guys shooting there 8 mm Mauser bolt guns and my one inch groups were much smaller than there’s and they couldn’t believe it. The Hawken will still do it but my old eyes will not. Be safe and live free
Yeah I have 45 cal TC Hawkin from 1973 still shoots better than me! And yes JJ got me into muzzle loading. Still watch it on DVD now and then, also the Mountain Men.
Okay? I looked for the movie recommendation 2012 Revenant…are referring to the hokey vampire movie?
SOMEBODY NEEDS TO START MAKING PERCUSSION CAPS AGAIN! HOW 'BOUT A VIDEO ABOUT THAT?
AMEN!
I agree!
I suggest a pre-built rifle kit, get used to working the kit. Get used to shooting. Then if you are handy with tools, then get a built-it kit.
I also suggest Side-Loxk Percussion to start. Flint-lock is very tetchy. Knapping flint is a learned skill. I've been using side-lock for 22 years, I don't have the time to learn to knap flint.
You can use Pyrodex in a flintlock. You don't need to put real black powder in first. All you need to do it put real black powder in the pan. People who say you can't are black powder snobs... :)
Elk hunting I shoot heavy conical bullets. Round ball may not give you an exit wound or much blood trail. I shot a 5x5 bull at 17 yards with a T/C 58 cal Big Bore 90gr pyrodex. Bull was facing me and I was above him shooting down hill. Bullet 555gr maxiball entered front chest and exited between anus and his nuts and left a baseball size hole. I had little blood trail, not enough to track anyway. Bull ran Uphill and was found dead 80 yards away.
Wow, that's an impressive shot! Congrats!
Another easy lube for you to test, beeswax/olive oil or tallow, mixed 50/50. Ive found over 100 degrees 75/25 respectively works well for me.
that's what I use. its the only way to fly
@@Everythingblackpowder makes cleaning holy black pretty easy in my experience. Water is a little tough to come by for me at times, kinda nice to not need a ton of it lol
I can answer the question if foreign made flintlocks are worth it and the answer is yes. I have two Traditions flintlocks, one is a Tennessee and the other is a Kentucky rifle and I have two Pedersoli flint guns, one is a Cavallerie IX D carbine and the other is an Indian Trade musket. All of them work just fine.
I got extremely lucky when I decided to get back into muzzleloading and found a nearly brand-new Investarms percussion for $150 with caps and ammo, now I feel bad for anyone trying to get into traditional-style muzzleloaders. HUGE jump in price from even a few years ago.
I have OCD so I took the time weighing out 5.5 G of powder= 84.7 grains in individually sealed plastic baggies all 80 shots worth. In your own separate little pouches it's like they did in the civil war when you want to load your gun fast. It's already weighed out ready to go.
If having a fully handmade muzzleloader is a "must have" you could always have the gun shop at Colonial Williamsburg make you one... even the barrel and lock are made on-site by hand. Last I knew they start around $20K. That is perhaps a better option than wrecking an original, irreplaceable, 18th century gun.
YES!! not just on the build or the tools needed. Get to know what makes it go boom. Ammo size, powder loads black powder or smokeless I know they make both these days. Study yourself up good.
Percussion cap hands down.....If you ask me why 😮 just look up some footage busted flints, flints flying off, the number of fails to spark, broken flints with percussion there is more reliability just my opinion
As to the question of Pyrodex in a flintlock, I've loaded the bore with pyro, and primed with 4f black, with no problems. On occasion, I've been forced to use pyro as priming, but it doesn't flash quick enough or hot enough to fire without having a hangfire, but if that's all you've got, and work with it, it'll do.
Also, I've heard that if you grind the pyro a bit, and make the granules smaller, it "might" flash quicker, but I haven't tried that myself.
In my experience, black powder burns in a flash, but pyro burns almost like smokeless powder, relatively slow.
Hey my friend ETHAN I have a old idea I came up with back in 1987 hunting with my CVA st hawken 50. Cal percussion cap no.11 . I always went hunting back then alot and harvested many deer. But the reason I'm texting you is back then I came up with putting a spent 22 LR caseing over my cap and nipple and let the side lock hammer down on it. Instead of being on half cock I let the hammer down on the back of the empty 22lr shell and with all the dew in fog in the air during the early morning it kept my cap dry and also was a really good safety. I didn't ever have any snap and no boom . Just leave it on until the buck is in sight but make sure you half cock and take the 22 LR caseing off before you shoot your buck or doe because I forgot and left mine on once and my hawken went click and no boom and I missed out on that buck . But that's when I first started using 22lr shell casing for moisture protection and for a really good safety because if you're hammer falls on the shell casing it definitely want shoot! I thought I would tell you this and all other hunters that a spent 22 LR caseing over your cap and nipple is a game changer and a good safety with hammer eased down on it. And don't forget to take it off or it want shoot. Keep them Caps dry and stay safe and good luck hunting. P.S I put a small cord around the 22lr shell casing and fastened it to my trigger guard so I wouldn't lose it or ding on my rifle. Please try it and you will probably be surprised how good it works. Just one of my backwoods survival thing I came up with and I use them till this very day!
If you want an ash plank to make your next gun let us know before you come to shoot with us at Garland Ridgerunner's fall frolic.Willie and Chase have several.
The two elk I have harvested with a .50 cal. muzzleloader were both killed with a 170 grain round ball. Both shots were about 70 yards and both balls passed through the animal. The elk fell dead as if shot by a smokeless rifle.
I love your videos. Very informative, very practicle.
Try No-Excuses lead bullets for hunting, they sell a sample pack to see what diameter your barrel likes. They are out of Utah. Load a wad under the bullet, a lubed precut wad. Accurate as my 30/06.
I hear a lot of good things about those bullets.
I have both traditions and pedersoli. I think you do get better quality with pedersoli. If you just wanna get started cheap traditions rifles are probably more forgiving and cheaper. If you have the money, id go pedersoli just do your research so you dont damage a 1000+ dollar gun.
Just started watching could you answer, what happened to the American black powder guns? There are no more traditional guns like my CVA Plainsman.
For an inline I'd use Seven in pellets. A plastic cylinder with the charge at the bottom and the sabot over the top is extra convenient for loading and the barrel can be cleaned with 3 patches. But over time it seems to lose its strength and for a traditional muzzle loader nothing beats black powder, although I have used pyrodex in a cap lock and liked it.
Thanks for sharing Larry! I appreciate that
Bought a ton of agate for my alleged “Hawken”,work like a charm,chew a hole in a three inch bullseye at 75 yards.Not historically accurate but what the heck.🎯
.54 cal conical, 90 grains 3f black powder, 120 yards, Hawken rifle (1:48 twist) = cow bison down.
Thank Townsends for spreading g your page. Now I am gonna share your channel. WATCH IT EXPLODE! Keep on keeping on.
Thank you for coming along!
I have stood in a line to shoot the flame off a candle. 25 cents per shot,.75 cent experience,no damage to wick or candle holder either 😂😊
A pre loaded tube is as good or better than pellets,to make black powder and caps good information maybe you could make a video
How to put a 2nd screw on a lock to save wood splitting on front of lock expressly on flint lock
Ethan thanks for answering questions that folks who are starting out are curious about. To answer your question about what you would change when you started. I was introduced to muzzleloading when I was 14 years old by my uncle, Ltd. Col Vaughn Goodwin Ret. It took me 55 years to pick it up. I'm glad I did ,I'm sorry I didn't earlier so I could learn from a master. Starting later I learn from other shooters ,from fourms,forums, reading and from instructive pod casts like yours. thanks again for helping educate beginners. Bruce
Honestly, I didn't search for your answer about "silk patches". I heard the "silk patch" warning, when I started BP in 1973. My theory(IMO) is that silk is a PROTEIN, and the burned residue creates a more gummy mess(This also applies to using PETROLEUM-based cleaning products with real BLACK POWDER) I learned (quickly) to use cotton patches(kept in small tub) soaked in PLANT-based lubricants, such as Crisco. Even Oleo Margarine is PETROLEUM(Oleo)-based.FOR clean-up, think of your BP fire-arm as a untensil, use DAWN dish-detergent, HOT WATER for rinse, wipe down w/LIGHTLY applied (BALLISTOL is best---it is plant-based) lubricant, then dry rub moderately. My 1984 CVA ( inline-.50) is still my fav, still running/gunning w/ RB. My 1997 CVA Eclipse .50 is my conical fav, still looks like the week after I bought it(of course I tested it, AND used it, a lot) IMO, even tho BP is more work, the more you learn about it as a whole, the better YOU will shoot!! TY.
Oleic acid is a fatty acid that occurs naturally in various animal and vegetable fats and oils. It is an odorless, colorless oil, although commercial samples may be yellowish. In chemical terms, oleic acid is classified as a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid, abbreviated with a lipid number of 18:1 cis-9. It has the formula CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)7COOH.[2] The name derives from the Latin word oleum, which means oil.
I`ve owned three or four original percussion rifles , and never gave more than $600 for one ! generally they had some rust , and needed a good cleaning , but were easy to bring back to life , and generally were good shooters ! it`s all about being at the right place at the right time !
That's awesome.
Go to a shoot with local muzzleloader groups and a annual show
The only thing that heat does in mirage coming off the barrel. And harder fowling. If the barrel is QUALITY heat will not effect accuracy. Not at the level that is obtained with a ML. I started shooting MLs about 1966.
Thanks Dan!
Ahahaha I was wondering if you had seen that episode of MeatEater! I literally thought “I wonder what Ethan would have to say about this?!” Lol
Also I would love to see a Rock Island style review video of your family gun!!
I thought about ‘reacting’ to it but got lost in the shuffle 🤣
I’ll see what I can do!
Awesome!
Been shooting muzzleloaders since about 1991. I've only used real black powder in Flintlocks, and have always used pyrodex or other substitutes in all side lock percussion rifle and pistols as well as in lines. Even in Flintlocks I've used substitute powders behind my ball and real 4F in my pans. It is absolutely safe, but I would never recommend mixing powders together. I've also used pyrodex RS in pistols and P in rifles, and it's not an issue as long as you understand you are getting a more or less dense charge because each is ground to a different granule size. The powder itself is the same powder.
Thank you Gunner! I appreciate your comment and your willingness to share your knowledge!
Glad to hear you make mention of the CLA. This year's show is coming up in August in Lexington, KY.
Thanks TOD. More CLA content coming soon.
Just found your channel... Thanks for posting this awesome Q and A video... Liked and Subscribed!
Awesome! Thank you!
I just bought a buck stalker XT and I'm not really too happy with the pellets I was wondering if there was any chance I could run loose powder under my slug
Yep, shouldn’t have any problem
The build series youve done are great
Is the "Don't have an air gap between your powder and projectile or you'll have a pipe bomb" adage a myth?
Everythingblackpowder did a video on myths to. He tried is without blowing up his piece. But, back in the day with forge welded barrels it could have been the truth!
Actually silk patches were actually did use during that time period it give you an extra 50% more range in accuracy with his long rifle that he used because I also use silk patches myself and they give you a lot more accuracy because of the tighter weave then pillow ticking patches pillow ticking patches are just a little tighter going down the barrel but with silk it's almost like lubricating a round ball it's smoother going down and that's what I use in my muzzleloading rifle and gives me another 50 to 60 yards more accuracy down range another 50 to 60 to 80 yards more range actually and with 110 grains of powder that I shoot out of my muzzleloading rifle out of my 50 caliber it increases the velocity way higher than normal and it's a lot easier to load and it's a lot easy to fast load and I use those in my loading blocks for an extra follow-up shot for knockdown power so yeah they did use silk back then because of a tighter weave and pelticking wasn't as frequently as silk was that's why he had so fast of loading because he can put that silk in that round ball put it in that ripe and he can load and run while he was loading while he was on the run running and gunning because he had that silk patch
Periods and spellcheck please
Silk made out of worms 😂
I'm new to this, your videos are very helpful. Long story below that ultimately talks to pyrodex. I have a TC hawken flinter from the 70s. It didn't work very well when i got it, fired 1 out of 7 tries. The frizzen was like a washboard and it smashed flints. I replaced the cock with the "new" style (redesigned in the 80s) and replaced the frizzen, which required drilling and re tapping the frizzen screw and fitting the frizzen. Now it throws a shower of sparks. I was really excited to get out to the range after all that work and imagine my disappointment to have the pan flash every time but the rifle fire only about 2/3 of the time, and with a long delay. Well, i looked at the bottle of powder i got with it a little closer and it says pyrodex FFG substitute (did i mention I'm new to this). So i see a video about black powder being more reliable and faster ignition, pick up a can of 3F scheutzen and now it's fast ignition, no more holding on target forever, and it seems to fire about 9/10 of the time, maybe better. Moral of the story - Pyrodex in flintlock=bad experience.
Thank You !
P.S I have even took a small black O ring and slippep it all the way to the bottom of the tapper on my nipple and let the 22lr rest against it for a moisture tight seal and I have never had a wet cap sense and I have been hunting with my st.hawken since 1987 and I feel lots easier knowing I have a safety cap over my primer cap and knowing it's going to go boom when I touch the trigger off .
Good luck hunting ETHAN and I like your videos keep them coming and please try the 22lr. She'll casing and fastened a bank line cord to it even if you have to put crazy glue to keep the shell casing and don't forget the black Oring seal to rest the shell casing against with hammer down and your primer cap will be dry . Please write back and let me know what you think of my idea I came up with in 1987 . I harvested many deer using this method to keep my cap dry even in some unexpected rain and it still fired after removing the 22 LR caseing from over the nipple.
The best way to get started in muzzleloader is to read history, 1750 to 1850. Then you will want to get a proper period correct muzzleloader. From there attend rendezvous, re-enactments, and similar events. Talk to the old timers. If you want to hunt with a muzzleloader, then learn to HUNT with a muzzleloader. Don't try to re-invent the long range cartridge. Flintlock shooting is the best, it needs no improvements.
I got in to cap and ball revolvers long before I got into muzzleloader rifles, I wanted an inexpensive entry level rifle and had wanted to buy a Traditions Spring Field Rifle ($300 at the time) but they were always sold out ..
One day I was talking with a friend of mine about it and come to find out that he had the exact rifle that his employees gave him as a gift but he never even shot it, he sold it to me for $50 bucks ..
People can knock Traditions all they want, I love that rifle, it’s extremely accurate and a great knock about ..!!
I have since acquired a T/C Hawken in like new condition with sling and rifle case for $300 bucks ..!
Haven’t shot the T/C Hawken yet ..
For anyone that wants to get into traditional muzzleloaders I recommend finding one used and go from there, it’s an awesome and fun learning experience and every bit as accurate as any modern day rifle ..! You are your own hand loader ..!!
I have a traditions hawken replica and a pedersoli kentucky bounty hunter pistol percussion and both 50 cal. And love bothe of them
Looking forward to more your videos I find it very interesting I have quite a few black powder loads myself thank you for having me
Again I'm watching a bunch of your past videos and also hoping for some questions answered. When I first bought my traditions I really didn't know that much about the black powder world so I had access to a bunch of Triple 7 substitute black powder and I jumped on it and as time went on I realized that it was nasty. I now have some Swiss and some schutzen, I guess my phone spelled the second one right because it wouldn't respell it in this sentence, and found out that the Swiss was much cleaner as well as the schuetzen black powder so now I'm saving the triple seven until I don't have anything else. I had bought a total of 7 lb 2 f, 3f and 4f and now that I stay halfway broke all the time I can't seem to get stocked up on the real black powder. I'm going to try to make me a tumbler and using everything black powders methods make my own black powder. I have a little over 10 lb of Tire weights to use for my lead balls. I also have a 490 mold, a495 mold and a mold that says 50 caliber of which I haven't measured that one yet. So I'm set up pretty good for shooting I also have pre-made 490 and 495 balls. Oh well I guess I didn't have a question after all but I sure did like the questions and answers you had in this video. Maybe I do have another question are you going to put out any more new videos? Keep ye powder dry!
I recommend you find out the smallest caliber your state allows to hunt with if you want to hunt. My state's minimum caliber is a .50 caliber. Some other states say .45 caliber minimum.
Research just go to the library. But the way I learned was get a gun. Then learn powder types P is pistol FFFG , FFG is rifle, FG Canon. Grease your barrel it's not as hard as people wantothers to believe. Site your gun then "getter done"
Although no longer on TH-cam, Bill Raby’s channel, now on rumble, is fabulous for rifle building information. I think the channel name is Flintlock Rifle Building. Cool video. Thanks!!!
I'm still waiting on the PA type chronicle bullet 240 grain projectile from that I'm still waiting on that and it's also made to be fired out of Kentucky long rifles in flintlocks I want to know what the muzzle velocity of it coming out of a 50 caliber Hawken rifle traditions I'm still waiting on that to see what the muzzle velocity is on that
Myth question. Does compression of the shot increase with a dirty barrel?
Well there will be nothing like the first no matter horn, bag, pouch. They are always the best
I was told by a seasoned black powder man that the pellets are synthetic powder unpredictable and not good for your flintlock muzzle loader he had a few barrels come in to his shop that were damaged
I got a kit from TVM and it’s a great gun kit. Their customer service is excellent!
Been shooting muzzleloaders since I was 15 back in the 80's. Glorious times back then when you could just walk out to many public lands in TX and shoot. Great info
Also check out “ The woodland escape “ on TH-cam.
CVA was my 1st kit St Louis Hawken
What caps should I use in my CVA wolf? Just ordered the rifle, my first muzzleloader, and found some triple seven 50 grain pellets, and got some CCI caps but I don't know if they will work!!! Thanks!!
I believe the wolf will take 209 primers
Spit can cause issues if the rifle is left loaded for any length of time, I like well refined beef tallow from kidney fat.PURE Neatsfoot oil for cold weather hunting. Pyrodex is poison to rifle barrels. I have never used it in one of my guns but when working in the BP cartridge industry I learned just how bad this stuff really was from using it in company guns for testing. In guns returned to the factory with “bad barrels” and people using it in competition. Kibler is by far the best choice for someone with limited tools and experience. Iam very experienced but I put all the metal in the wood on a Kibler SMR in 4 hours and 36 minutes everything fit. No sights on the barrel. Har it ready to shoot the next day. Kibler’s stuff is REALLY the way to go. Priming. As Wallace Gusler once said FILL IT UP. If you use as little as possible you WILL have flashes in the pan. I had a REALLY nice rifle (by a MASTER ML gunsmith and engraver) I had to sell it to pay a doctor bill. The new owner then butchered the vent liner. I had NEVER had an issue with flashes, won matches killed deer etc, but he was “just use a little priming guy”. You need a FIRE to get things lit. Overall this is good info.
Thanks Dan!
Try to watch all of your videos and asked the same question in one other one but will repeat it here. Pyrodex ''P'' in a modern inline Magnum rated .50 cal. muzzleloader. Safe in any amount? I only ask because I have a lot of it from my pistol shooting days and would like to get some good out of it. What say you about a reduced load, say 90 grains in a rifle rated for 150 grains of FFg or equivalent. Is the finer granulation really going to produce (that) much more pressure? Something I'd like to see you or someone test.
Hey man, great question. I'm sorry I missed it somehow before. Looking at the data sheet (1)- It looks like the Pyordex P is simply their version of 3F Pyrodex. I'd check the label on the can to make sure there isn't any specific warning about it, but I don't see how it could generate so much more pressure that it would damage the rifle, especially with a reduced load.
Looking at the Hodgdon website, I believe the differentiation is to help folks who may not know as much about the powder differentiate between large bore and small bore.
The Statement - "Pyrodex P is intended to be a direct replacement for FFFg blackpowder, when measured volumetrically using a black powder measure." is pretty clear to me, and I don't see anything in the safety data warning not to use it in large calibers. That being said, always refresh yourself on the label and start with light loads.
(1) - hodgdon.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/2018-pyrodex-sds-new.pdf
I've been muzzle loading for 15yrs started with a tc white mountan carb then I got my lyman plains rifle in 50 cal I use nothing but black powder best cleaning fluid I found is rusty duck black off if your going to shoot round ball you need to check the patch ball seal your patches should be shot out and look like they could be used again for warm weather I use bore butter and in extreme cold I use mink oil over 80g 2f for hunting both hornady great plains bullets or there PA conical over 90g 3ff both shoot excellent
Thanks Michael!
Conicals are greatly overrated and penetration only be “adequate” and yes I have hunted elk. AND they sometimes will slide away from the powder. Not good. AND remember that they were not popular back in the day if you do some reading.
Thanks for the insight Dan! I appreciate it and I know others will too!
I have an original percussion side lock Muzzleloader with no markings that belonged to my great grandfather and would like to find some history about the rifle.
Best chance would be to ask on the muzzleloading forum. Lots of folks there that can help
What's you're thoughts on a 58cal investarms. I picked one up that was made in 1996
Should be good to go! Congrats on the find!!
Plainer half-stock percussion rifles in good shootable condition definitely come up at auction regularly, and so they are still out there. Occasionally you can find a plain original full-stock at a pretty low price too, but you need to keep your eyes out and watch for a deal if you want one for a pretty low price. You’ll definitely want to take a close look at the bore and what not before buying if shooting is your interest in the piece.
IMA still has loads of untouched originals if you have the capability to restore one. I have several guns from them that I restored and are definitely shootable.
Just what do you drive ❤ ?
Beeswax and coconut grease mix for softness. More wax is harder, more grease is softer.
Thank you!
Good info. Keep up the good work.
Very enjoyable to watch this, great job thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Paper Cartridges is an amazing source of of knowledge and a ton of fun to watch. Im soo glad I found your page. ty
Wish I could shoot the shit with you. You have soo much knowledge.
Brett is seriously one of the best! Couldn't agree more. Welcome!
What is your opinion on "coned" barrels?
I think they make loading easier, but I don’t think I have a rifle with one. Some friends enjoy it, some don’t
I have a couple of suitable originals.
I have an old barn rifle that had a rotten and unsafe barrel. I had a new barrel put in it.
Original in shootable condition are out there.
That's wonderful!
I did the same. I found an old rifle at a shop in North Georgia. It had a rotten bore. I shot it a few times but it wasn't safe. So, I had an new barrel out of an old Dixie kit. I had a Smith install it.
I need to get out and shoot it.
It's not the prettiest rifle but it speaks to me of a by-gone era.
Thanks for the video.
So don't use 777 in my Traditions Pennsylvania flintlock?
I believe you can but it can be hard to get it to ignite
@@ILoveMuzzleloading I ground it to a very fine powder for priming. We shall see, if not I'll get some 3f on line. Thanks Ethan.
Im trying to find an affordable yet nice possibles bag.
Try checking out Longrifle.com, they aggregate artist work from around the country. You can also find some nice ones on the American Longrifle Forum
Have a go at making one. I alway like making my own things that have the fun. Builds your skills as well.
Iam on my 2nd kibler kit and trust me i suck with wood. But the kit came out great. I think the best kit around. Watch kibler vdo. Spells it out.
I'm not a hunter (used to be) but the thrill of muzzle loaders has grown on me. Thank you for this video! It's amazing to realize that our country was won by using these single-shot monstrosities.
I’m getting started in traditional rifles and I’m having trouble finding black powder. All I can find is Swiss 1.5fg. Will that work in my 50 cal traditions percussion?
1.5 is traditionally a Blackpowder cartridge or musket powder from what I’ve been told. I think it could work for you until you find some 2f but it might foul a bit more while shooting
@@ILoveMuzzleloading Graf and Sons or Buffalo Arms and order some black powder. Gun stores often cannot cary black powder for insurance reasons