Machining a Custom Hydraulic Cylinder Trunnion Mount - Manual Machining
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 เม.ย. 2023
- Machining of a hydraulic cylinder trunnion mount for a loader. I do this part every few years due to damage or loss. I generally make a bushing that goes into it, but the customer had several on the shelf yet.
I also show a few of my machine shop tricks or secrets in this video. I hope you enjoy.
Topper Machine LLC is an entirely manual machine shop located in Spooner, WI. Our videos will highlight some of our shop work.
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Love the side vise technique on that radial table - looks like others weren’t so thoughtful over the years. Such a beautiful machine though
Yeah, people are hard on stuff. In 25 years, I have only had 2 accidents where I hit something. The most recent was trying to mill thin parts and get a little too close to the top of the video jaw. Superficial cut, but I still feel dumb.
@@TopperMachineLLC haha huge difference between attempting to fly a bit too close to the sun, and guys who view a machine work surface as sacrificial.
That was a brilliant idea the way you set up that part in the four jaw chuck. Anyone who thinks you are nuts for doing it that way ,,,, is nuts!
Regarding the indicating on the square block, in the 4 jaw, put a dead centre between the live centre and the hole in the block, and indicate the dead centre.
Indicate it near to the point, for maximum accuracy.
That saw cut was pretty good
I ran a radial arm drill press years ago at Wheeling-Pittsburgh steel. It was a little bigger than yours. I believe, if my memory serves me correctly, that it had a 14 inch column. I loved that job. It was a Carlton and the controls were the same. Man, that brings back memories from the late 70s, early 80s. We had drills up to 3 inches. For any hole bigger we had a boring bar. So cool. Love your videos!
I work at the old Steubenville south plant, now owned by JSW, I ended up purchasing most of the old tooling from the machine shop at Steubenville north. Small world
The word you were looking for was centralised, well at least in English it's like that (I think) 'cause I never learned to spoke any language that good anyhow ! Thanks for the video. Pats for the pets, greetings for family and friends.
How nice to see you first thing in the morning. You did a great job on the video and the project.
Good one Josh, and what a lead in for, "Lets make a micrometer stand !!!!!!"
One small snowbank left...wife said she thinks she saw a blackfly yesterday...ughhhhhhhhhh....
It's snowing here right now. Ugh. It just won't end.
@@TopperMachineLLC Not tempted to migrate to more temperate climes south or west?
@@TopperMachineLLC OH NOOOOOOOOOO.....turns all my shop fans on High.... faces em towards Spooner..........begins to chant..... snow snow stay away come back some other day (like in 8 months)
@@donteeple6124 lol, no it can come back NEVER!
@@dcollins4679 cost too much to move. Plus nicer places are overpopulated, and I like my land. We will just stick to going on vacation in winter.
I'm a car guy. I got here by watching videos of car engine teardowns, then Caterpillar medium duty diesel teardowns, and then finally locomotive inspections. Josh, your channel really highlights how you machinists make the world go around. I've been exposed to some aspects of gas engine rebuilding, but that is absolutely peanuts compared to what is happening here. Y'all need more credit; keep up the great work and captivating videos!
Thank you sir. People don't realize just what machinists do, and without us the world would stop.
You sure have a lot of old, obsolete machines in your shop. I wouldn't mind betting that some of them are older than you and still working well. It really pays to keep this old equipment running with its ""built to last and keep running reliably" technology. You often mention helping out other shops because their new fangled gadgetry has broken down again. These old machines sure keep on keeping on.
That quick change on the Carlton has to be a big time saver. I want one for mine if I can find enough stuff.
I really enjoy your style of presenting. Thank you for taking the time and effort.
Thank you, it is a challenge sometimes. Especially with this one. I was sick when I filmed it. A Lot of editing out coughs and sniffles. 😂
That radial arm drill is a beast of a machine. Looks like somebody let the dog loose on the T-slots ! Great work as always. Rob
love the radial drill press. Great job!!
Love that radial arm drill. Could that handle some milling as well?
Maybe, but I have far better milling capabilities to even try.
Topper pro-machining 😊👍✨
I love those plain inserts for boring, don't know why they work so well but they sure do.
That’s great technique for centering that block in the 4 jaw!
Good Video. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Good use of the lathe, difficult to quickly creat holes on a tool room sized mill, like that stubby drill. A twist drill is still the most efficient metal removal tool on standard machines.
Nicely done Josh, thanks for sharing.
like the chuck fine tune
the way I center a block or drill an offset hole is to put a dead center between the tail stock center and the center drill or center punch mark then indicate off the dead center. less side movement on your tail stock.
hi there nice work , well done john
Excellent
Hey Josh, Dan from Canada; I've been watching your videos and great content, I don't work on Loco motives but do build railway products, ty Josh, your amazing 😂😂😂!!!!
Very nice job Josh.
Nice process.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
Using a dead center for the indicating gives you a lot more room than indicating directly on the live center...
The dead center goes between the live center and the part.
This looked like a very interesting project and I enjoyed following along, thanks
Thanks for the video Josh nicely done on the trunnion old school style nice work 👍❤️❤️. Take care of yourself and family and be Blessed.
Lovely stuff Josh, nice clean work buddy
Hello Josh, I have a nearly identical job coming up in the next few weeks. It's about 6" by 10" with a 3.5" hole out of 2" thick plate. Two 3/4" holes for bolts just like yours. However, I have 50 of them to do so I'll be putting some kind of a fixture on my lathe for doing the 3.5" hole (it needs to be a press fit with an oilite bushing). The pieces are arriving flame cut oversize and all edges have to be machined. The hole is burned out undersize as well so I only have to bore it. Other than the 3.5" hole everything else will be done on my boring mill. I'll try to post a video about it. Along with these parts I have several hundred other parts to do as well on the same project. I think I may have to invest in one of those self-tipping swarf bins. It will be nice to be busy again. Ken
Nice! That will be a good job for sure. I hope whoever is cutting them knows what they are doing and don't harden the surface too much. On that bore, could you use a shell reamer? Would spend up the precision boring. Rough within 0.010 and ream the last bit.
Retired after 45 years in the trade. Exactly how I would have made it.
You should build your own micrometer stand…
Most interesting.
I’m very impressed with what you can do.👍👍
Good video
☹🇬🇧
Great video thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing
I do like the setup with the tailstock for the drilling of the hole for the ram. That is a very good way to find a hole center on a non round part. I'm also glad to see the radial arm drill being used, a rare machine with lots of possibilities.
thanks josh! just ordered one of your shirts, i also work in a good size machine shop in fresno california...Rand Machine Works for the last 20 years. i really enjoy watching your videos always learning new tricks! the boring thru in the four jaw is gr8 done that a few times myself beats the heck out of using the mill and a criterion boring head!
Nice I like the process of doing
Good stuff
Hi, Sir. Do you have a sample video for ball nut mount block finished in milling machine?
Man, is there any machine you dont have. Just completed an almost indentical part in my shop, only I had to complete the job using just a horizontal bandsaw and a drillpress with a homemade X-Y table! Might I be a wee bit envious. I did make a visit to a local machine shop to finish bore the center hole to 1.630". Stock thickness was 0.875" on a 2.435"×6" rectangle. These are actualy bearing supports for the table feed leadscrews on that sawmill I am building. There are 4 perpedicular holes, 1thru and the others ⅜" tapped. Building up the rail/leadscrew assemblies tomorrow.
sometimes i use a dead center between the tailstock and the part when centering on a hole with the four-jaw.
I once thought you had everything needed for a machine shop but after watching this, I now know what to get you for Christmas!
😂
Do you have 3 phase at your shop or do you use phase converters?
with that many machines I'll probably guess 3 phase incoming
600 Amp 208v
I find I always get a better surface finish out of my Bridgeport when I climb cut. Every time I conventional mill it just packs chips into the surface as it cuts.
I would have waterjetted the major work including the big hole just because we have two in shop so might as well use them but great work as usual
No adjustable boring head? Good way to do it though, if you have a mill/lathe setup this way. Super fast route, albeit a hot block by the end 😮 I’ll have to remember this is actually something I can do to think outside the box 😂 great use of multi setup, always love to see the different setups you use.
I do have one, but this is way faster and easier.
Hi Josh. Just a thought. Would it not have been easier to hold the bore indicator in the (softly clamped) vice and use the micrometer to do the measurement? You know WAY more than I do, I’m just a hobbyist. All the best mate. 👍
Any particular reason to not just use a boring head instead of switching to a lathe?
Lathe is way faster
@@TopperMachineLLCyeah guess it depends on how close of a drill size you have.
I have an irrational dislike of 4 jaws
And he can show some offset turning. Just did some for my manual lathes 2 class at Athens Technical College.
@@Aztal if you hate 4 jaw work, tune in next week for a good one. 😂
@@TopperMachineLLC will do lol, 99% of the lathe work I do is done via collet or 3 jaw, so any time I gotta bust out the 4 jaws it's a bad day
Next time just use a spring loaded tap guide into the work's center drill hole, then indicate that spring loaded tap guide's OD close to the work face, held true on the other end by your tailstock
how much snow are you getting now
With the big drill. Why hang it so far out on the tail stock.
20:35 I'm thinking oh he didn't just clamp that mic in a vise without some soft jaws, shop rag, or something to protect. No matter how light you clamp - that's just brutal. I do like that little radial arm drill. Looks handy for a small shop.
These micrometers have a plastic soft body. Nothing to worry about. And they are my cheap Chinese ones, not the good B&S or Starret
Hey Josh, I've worked in the same machine shop for 30 years. I'm enjoying your videos as it gives me a chance to learn new things other than the way we do it. We do not have a radial arm drill press so I have very little knowledge of them. I want to ask what is the advantages of moving the part to the radial arm drill press over finishing the part in the Bridgeport? Thanks.
Mostly for the quill travel. The bridgeport wouldn't drill all the way through without moving the knee up.
does anyone know what the name of the tool at 5:45 is? For facing it seems to be able to hog out a good amount of material.
I’m guessing your lathe is significantly more powerful than the mill, right? I wondered why you didn’t use a boring head on the mill- but that would be a lot slower than shoving a massive drill through there. Cool!
It comes down to time. It's significantly faster to move over to the lathe than try to do it all on the mill. In this business, time is money.
ABOM79 video using a dead center between tail stock center and work piece to indicate part in?
Never seen it. I've been using this trick for 25 years.
Im not a machinist, why did you drill the hole on the lathe, and not just on a drill press??
Have you ever had any issues with part lift in your kurt vise?. My kurt dx6 will lift my part about 10 thou when tightened down on parallels. You can see the part move if you watch closely
Yes, quite a lot lately. Thinking my voice needs replacement or cleaning. Also, if your material is not perfectly square on the back jaw, it will lift when force is applied.
Mine is pretty much brand new. But it will still lift even a 123 block in the jaws with out parallels drives me crazy
I have a six inch Kurt vise in my shop and I can tell you how to adjust it to fix the lift. There’s an adjustment screw in the rear of the movable jaw that can be tightened to control lift. Screw it in as far as it will go, back off slightly and check if the jaw still lifts. This screw contacts a Kurt designed 45 degree ball socket wedge that prevents lift when adjusted properly. If the screw is backed out far enough the movable jaw can be removed from the vise by lifting straight up. Once the jaw is removed you can clearly see how the anti-lifting device works. I hope this helps.
@@TopperMachineLLC I thought your "voice" was just fine and needs no cleaning or replacement.
Thanks for another great video! 👍👍👍
It’s easier if you put a live center between the part and tailstock
You need a test indicator, rather than trying to squeeze that big ass dial indicator into some of these tight locations that I've seen you struggle with more than once.
I have them. I prefer the bigger dial for visibility. And, you can't see the little indicator as well on video.
Call me a noob but does anyone know why he shifted from the mill to the radial arm drill to finish that bore? It seems that he was using the same drill bit and speeds and didn’t appear to run out of travel
Tat poor bed on the radial arm drill. Looks like its been through the war. What is its provenance?
Very quiet machine: does it use a DC motor?
Everything in the shop is 3 phase with the exception of the Planer Mill. That is DC
where can i get one of your tee shirts?
Link is in the video description
Wow, that poor old tombstone on your drill press must have had a hard life before you got it.
It sure did. Someday I might try fixing it, but would sure take a ton of work.
I was just thinking that you could use your vise as a micrometer stand and the next thing, you were using the vise as a micrometer stand.
What's up with the camera work?
Good editing and still hogging metal!