Yes, we can´t save ´em all but we shure can try. I just love it when machinists take some pity and re make something so the old chunk of steel can get a second life. I´m shure the owner WILL take good care of the machine, thanks to You. -Another German
This appears to be why the majority of people that do it, get into machining...specifically so they can make new bits for old machinery. Good stuff Josh thanks for sharing
Josh, new skid-steers are $100k+ these days, thankfully there are good machinists, like you around to help. Good non-obsolete ones are damned expensive as well. Best wishes from the far North.
Great work as usual. Also can't emphasize enough how dangerous long stringy chips are. Probably 3-4 years ago I cut my middle finger most of the way off with one or those chips on 4140ht. A moment of not thinking was all it took. Got it pieced back together at the hospital and have use of it, but have no feeling at all beyond the cut line.
You mean you haven't yet machined a quick release for your ring? . Always great to see another Topper video. Hint: It's time for another railroad themed article...
Unfortunately, there will be almost no more railroad videos. I was threatened by the FRA with fines for that they saw in the videos. It's not worth a $10K fine.
I'm always happy to learn something new about subjects and things that i had pretty much all figured out. There's always more to learn! It's so cool that you can make anything, any part or tool you need in your machine shop.
Nice job, Josh! Regarding “touching off”, I can understand that the cutter has to be spinning so that the measuring system can accurately zero the cutter. But wouldn’t the spinning cutter inadvertently cut into the workpiece, resulting in a false zero?
Love how the part turned out. I seen tons of woodruff keys used to hold hubs on to gear boxes. Worked great but rust was always an issue getting apart. The manufacturer's refused to put a dab of grease on before assembly which super annoyed me.
Josh, have you considered a silicone wedding band? Several of the other machinist and mechanic channels that I watch wear them. You always have great contenr. Keep up the great work!
For a Machine Repair Machinist that apprenticed starting in 1974, watching you work is a pleasure. My question is since the two pieces of the coupling locate on the shaft when installed, how could the bore be egg shaped , physics and all?
I'm guessing it worked loose at one point. Someone repaired it by building up the inside with weld. It was truly ugly. It was probably out of alignment after that and chewed the crap out of all of it. It was the worst mess I've seen in a long time. Had they not already been thousands of dollars into it before finding this, I would have told them to scrap the machine. Actually I did tell them to scrap the machine.
@@TopperMachineLLC My comment was inre: to the comment asking if your new part would have an egg shaped bore due to being split. That would only happen if it was clamped togather without the shaft. That is not the case. The new part could also be made of two pieces of stock, tacked together seperated by a shim. Bore, tap drill, clearance drill, tap and ream. Grind off the tacks, remove the shim now in two pieces, bolt the coupling halves on the shaft. turn assembly as needed for clearance.
i ran into a similar issue and kept breaking (cheap) slitting saws. i ended up using a cutting disc on a custom mandrel! it worked though and was pretty damned accurate.
Gorgeous coupling. My first thought was, "How is Josh going to split that baby?" Using the band saw didn't come to mind, but since you already had the slit it made sense. Thanks for another scintillating video! 🙂
Great job. I like making old worn out stuff new again. You know I have never ran a slotting saw that didn't have a loping out of round sound to it when it was cutting. Even using a new arbor. That will probably be the newest best looking part on the machine...
"Parts are not always available". Yup, thats why I have my little machine shop at the bottom of my garden! Good video. I cringed as the slitting saw did its work. I've had bad experiences of them loading up, binding... BANG!
I'm a 37 year Journeyman Tool and Die Maker and these was my favorite jobs. Engineering on the fly is fun. The can you make this work again thing is also a good time.
Hi mate, what is a Journeyman, I have heard of it before and only from America. I am in Australia and the name Journeyman is not used here so can you please tell me what it means, thanks.🇦🇺
@@MICHAEL-ys3pu Basically means Journeyman Tool and Die Makers have to go through classes like trig, geometry, drafting etc. at the same time we go through the apprentice program where we have certain amount of hours on each machine. Lathe, horizontal and vertical mill, surface grinder, ram and wire EDM. I don't think it's done anymore like that here. Pretty much everyone specializes on one machine. We did it different in the stone age.
@@Buddha-of8fk ok thanks mate, I think a Tool maker and a Die maker are two separate apprenticeship here. I am a retired coal miner, I was a Mining supervisor when I retired after 40 years working underground and am now setting up a small workshop at home so that I can get into machining in a small way.
@@MICHAEL-ys3pu A vertical mill would be the most important. Definitely the most versatile machine. Lathe then surface grinder. Last would be a ram EDM and you can do all kinds of things. It's amazing to take a piece of metal and make something out of it.
Well done. Re wobble never had any luck running slitting saw perfectly concentric despite the best of set up. Also seen same issue with Keith Fenner and Adam Booth who know a good bit more than me.
The safest design for a swarf hook is "foil sword like" fashion - a large wooden handle (like one used for big files) which gives you a good, safe and secure (and comfortable) grip and there's no way you could put a finger "into it", neither unintentionally/ by accident nor on purpose - and when it gets accidentally yanked forcefully from your hand there are no narrow edges to do much harm to your skin and bones. Then there's a "hemispheric" steel hand guard (doesn't have to be a full hemisphere) followed by a not too long "blade" (obviously), ending in a poker-like hook - which allows you to both pull the swarf and push it away if needed.
I recognize that part! I have a 70’s OMC Mustang 1000 skid loader that used that setup. That uses a two piece drive shaft that runs to the drive sprockets in the side housings. They used a belt driven variable drive system like a snowmobile with the driven sheave on the two piece shaft. The drive sheave on the engine is opened and closed hydraulically to vary the speed. The shaft is made as two pieces with the coupler so that you can replace the drive belt. Mine was missing the original Wisconsin V4 engine, as well as many of the variable drive parts, including half of that coupler. I ended up repowering with a 24 hp Onan engine, replaced the two piece shaft with a one piece shaft and just used a chain drive single speed system.
Always an interesting project. Lots of variety in your work to keep your imagination primed to figure out how to complete a job. So cool. Thanks for the video.
Great video. Well done on this one! Also it is a bit of a relief to see some machining on stuff that you can actually show and share all the way with us! Cheers and God Bless.
Gotta say the chipping characteristics of that material is really interesting. I've always heard that of stainless steel, but never really worked with stainless.
You have a nice shop, and your work also looks very nice Josh. Owatonna made skid loaders for John Deere too. I have the model 70 with a 23.5 hp Onan engine, which my dad bought new in 1975 for the farm. It's a neat little loader that will get into places others can't and is surprisingly strong for its size. We used it for cleaning stalls in the dairy barns. I repowered it with a 25 hp Honda engine a few years ago which made a huge difference in reliability and power. It uses a double row chain coupling for the drive with one half being a 13 spline to the pumps, and the other half 1 1/8" keyed to the engine. The splines on the pump side were worn out and I could not source a new shaft, so I pulled the pump and disassembled it, built up the shaft, and cut the new splines on the Bridgeport. Had to make my own 60-degree cutter for the splines and because I didn't have a dividing head at the time, I made a 13-hole plate for my spindexer and used that. Been running now for about 500 hours with no issues at all. I can still get some parts from JD for it, and what I can't, I either make or source/adapt other parts to keep her going. I picked up an extremely nice original Brown & Sharpe 10" universal dividing head at auction a while back with all the manuals and tailstock for 150 bucks. I really use it more than I thought I would and have no regrets about getting it. With money getting tight, I'm starting to see quite a bit of welding and machine work through the door for things nobody used to fool with having done. Parts are getting scarce for a lot of equipment now, so I am reaping the benefits of the situation. I left a full-time job last year to work in my shop like you do. I have a 150 ft commute to work, and it feels wonderful to finally work for myself after 10 years of investing in the shop and equipment to start the business. No more corporate BS to put up with and no boss to blame for screw ups...only myself!
I wish you the best of luck in business. It's a cruel world out there for machine shops. I can tell you horror stories that would make you sick. But, at least when your boss is a dink, you can now tell him off. Lol
Someone really butchered that old coupling. I've never seen anything like that before. It was interesting how you made the new coupling. Having all the right machines made it look easy and no doubt it was easy for you with your experience and having the right machines for the job.
Saw your our warning about finger rings, we can’t wear jewelry at work. Had a coworker partially degloved his ring finger working around the house. The company was going to terminate his employment, half the employees threatened to walkout if they persecuted him in that way. Thanks for sharing.
Circular saw blades do a surprisingly good job as slitting saws. Get one with a thicker kerf, and fewer teeth than you would for wood, and you're good to go. There are lots of size options in the 3-5" range now.
I’ve had to modify slitting arbors to get the extra distance needed too. No one makes good slitting saws any more! You could always try to chill the hand first, apply some olive oil around the ring, then in a boiling water pot heat up a big heavy spoon, then apply that spoon tip to the ring and see if you can get it to expand enough to slip off. Good luck Mr. Topper!
Great video. I'm sorry if you mentioned this but I went back and looked again but couldn't see what materials that you used for the coupling and the shaft. All you mentioned for the coupling was that the original was cast and you were using 2-3/4 round stock. Is it just 1020 mild steel or did you use something different? Thanks. Mike
IT'S ON THE OWNER to fix the "repair" and not use it til failure. How many headaches could have been prevented by the owner being more engaged-BUT-it gives work to Mr. Topper-so thank you poor owner
Sometimes when I can't get my ring off, liquid dishwashing soap helps. Keep an eye on that swelling. Water retention could be the sign of a multitude of issues. Question about the bandsaw. I purchased a metalworking bandsaw at auction last year, and I am thinking about making a melamine table to go over the iron table, and putting guide slots in it for using a miter/cradle sled to make lengthy cuts like you did in the video. I am a very novice hobbyist metalworker, and I am thinking the right combination of clamps can all but eliminate the potential wavering and wandering cuts. I could never be steady enough trying to freehand a piece like you did, even with the pre-cuts. Those kinds of fixtures work great with wood. I am curious what you might think about their use in various metals. Thx!
When that gets clamped together, won't it bind since you drilled it out before splitting it? Will the customer have to shim it to get clearance? Or is it supposed to be a clamp fit?
Good job on that new coupling. I hope that old skid-steer will soon be running. Can’t help but wonder why a larger .125 thick saw wouldn’t have been a better choice for slitting that part?
I'm sure I have something that has a woodruff key, but I can't remember what it is, likely one of my old lawn mowers or chainsaws. Not something you see very often, it's mostly just a regular key-way these days
VERY NICE WORK MR TOPPLER. LOVE VIDEOS LIKE THIS KEEP THEM COMING. I USED TO LOVE TO WATCH ATOM FROM ABOMS79, BACK WHEN HE USED TO DO THE REAL WORK LIKE THIS. BUT NOW HE'S TOO COMERICALIZED SO I ENJOY SOMEONE PUTTING OUT THE GOOD VIDEOS LIKE THIS.
Hi there, great video. Im just learning machining and found your video very informative. Quick question - after slitting would the bore of the coupling drop out of round? I was e pecting you to somehow rebore it. Thanks
Reach is always a problem for slitting saws. And the arbor is always in the way. Particularly I find the bottom section of the arbor to be a problem when slicing small work off of stock held in the vise. I've considered permanently mounting a few saws on dedicated arbors that have no nut on the bottom. That way I could have the saw run true so each tooth takes a bite and the diameter of the arbor is smaller. BTW, if your ring is stuck, use some soap a lubricant and hold your hand above your head so some fluid can drain.
"LIKE" button has been torqued to the manufacturer's recommended specification. "CLICK". God forbid you should be running around Spooner there with a loose "LIKE" button !
I'm old school, everything is repairable now more than ever! If its metal there are scanners and CNC machines that can replicate the part. If its plastic you can use your cellphone to capture images and create a 3D print plan that goes direct to the 3D Printer. If its computer controlled, you can get a Raspberry Pi to emulate the old computer. The biggest issues I see? Companies screaming IP Rights and attacking you because you want to keep your property running.
One of your best videos! Excellent results. One question: When you split a cylinder. does not the diameter of the bore and also the outside diameter decrease by an amount equal to the thickness of the saw you use? Would this not result in an egg shaped bore? I know in this case it probably doesn't make any difference but in a situation where precision was important, would it not?
Thanks, I am happy with how the video came out. To answer your question, No the bore does not become egg shaped. It was bored to the shaft diameter, by removing the width of the saw, I only created a small gap between the tow halves when clamped. This will give room to pull it even tighter. The bore measured 1.2505 and the shaft was 1.2495, If I had split it then bored, it would remain lose. Now by tightening the bolts, you can pull in that last 0.001 making a positive locking engagement. This is why I chose a thin slitting saw vs a 1/8" one.
@@TopperMachineLLCI 100% understand that in this particular application it is desirable. In other cases it is not. If you use a .045 saw you reduce the ID by .045. That is physics.
@@TopperMachineLLC I'm not familiar with this, I was assuming that the shaft would turn in the housing so I had the same question but if the housing actually clamps to the shaft then it all makes sense to me.
That was to remove the thread in the top half of the coupling. It needed the thread in the bottom half, but with the split, the top half actually would be a problem.
The replacement parts are probably better fitting than the original ones. Great work, Josh.
Your customer get a better coupling than before. Nice to see a pro handle that. Greetings from Germany.
Yes, we can´t save ´em all but we shure can try. I just love it when machinists take some pity and re make something so the old chunk of steel can get a second life. I´m shure the owner WILL take good care of the machine, thanks to You. -Another German
Job shops are a good way to keep old equipment running. Good work on the parts.
I really like josh's attutude when it comes to perfection
This appears to be why the majority of people that do it, get into machining...specifically so they can make new bits for old machinery. Good stuff Josh thanks for sharing
You have a good example, here, of when to be precise and when tight tolerances are not so important. Great job!
Ouch, the original bodge up looked painful 😢.
Great design and Improvement Josh.
Thanks for sharing
Thank you sir! Enjoy this "analog" style work. Thank you
Love this content. My dream is to build a shop and have a lathe and mill some day.
Josh, new skid-steers are $100k+ these days, thankfully there are good machinists, like you around to help.
Good non-obsolete ones are damned expensive as well.
Best wishes from the far North.
I just totally enjoy seeing a decent cut peel material away and leave that finish. Never gets old. 👍
Great work as usual. Also can't emphasize enough how dangerous long stringy chips are. Probably 3-4 years ago I cut my middle finger most of the way off with one or those chips on 4140ht. A moment of not thinking was all it took. Got it pieced back together at the hospital and have use of it, but have no feeling at all beyond the cut line.
Great video Josh, I worked in a coal mines for 30 years and got into the machine shop biss so I got my wedding ring tattooed on,lol much safer..
You mean you haven't yet machined a quick release for your ring? . Always great to see another Topper video. Hint: It's time for another railroad themed article...
Unfortunately, there will be almost no more railroad videos. I was threatened by the FRA with fines for that they saw in the videos. It's not worth a $10K fine.
you're doing a great job showing the versatility of a lathe and bridgeport combo.. good job
I'm always happy to learn something new about subjects and things that i had pretty much all figured out.
There's always more to learn!
It's so cool that you can make anything, any part or tool you need in your machine shop.
Hi just started watching your videos iam a retired engineer of 50yrs nice to see proper skills still being used
Nice job, Josh!
Regarding “touching off”, I can understand that the cutter has to be spinning so that the measuring system can accurately zero the cutter.
But wouldn’t the spinning cutter inadvertently cut into the workpiece, resulting in a false zero?
Love how the part turned out. I seen tons of woodruff keys used to hold hubs on to gear boxes. Worked great but rust was always an issue getting apart. The manufacturer's refused to put a dab of grease on before assembly which super annoyed me.
Josh, have you considered a silicone wedding band? Several of the other machinist and mechanic channels that I watch wear them. You always have great contenr. Keep up the great work!
For a Machine Repair Machinist that apprenticed starting in 1974, watching you work is a pleasure. My question is since the two pieces of the coupling locate on the shaft when installed, how could the bore be egg shaped , physics and all?
I'm guessing it worked loose at one point. Someone repaired it by building up the inside with weld. It was truly ugly. It was probably out of alignment after that and chewed the crap out of all of it. It was the worst mess I've seen in a long time. Had they not already been thousands of dollars into it before finding this, I would have told them to scrap the machine. Actually I did tell them to scrap the machine.
@@TopperMachineLLC
My comment was inre: to the comment asking if your new part would have an egg shaped bore due to being split. That would only happen if it was clamped togather without the shaft. That is not the case. The new part could also be made of two pieces of stock, tacked together seperated by a shim. Bore, tap drill, clearance drill, tap and ream. Grind off the tacks, remove the shim now in two pieces, bolt the coupling halves on the shaft. turn assembly as needed for clearance.
What beautiful work of art! Thanks for sharing.
As usual, I learned a lot. Thank you for the great content. As a hobby machinist, I enjoy learning techniques from the experts.
i ran into a similar issue and kept breaking (cheap) slitting saws. i ended up using a cutting disc on a custom mandrel! it worked though and was pretty damned accurate.
Nice video. Pure machining, direct to the point.
Beautiful parts, Josh. They are no doubt the nicest parts on the old Skid Steer!
Great job! Its always interesting to see the sequence of how you are going to machine something.
Interesting job, excellent work Josh as always, I'm sure the customer will be delighted with.
Gorgeous coupling. My first thought was, "How is Josh going to split that baby?" Using the band saw didn't come to mind, but since you already had the slit it made sense. Thanks for another scintillating video! 🙂
Top Darts Josh, I like the re-work on the lugs very neat.
Great job. I like making old worn out stuff new again. You know I have never ran a slotting saw that didn't have a loping out of round sound to it when it was cutting. Even using a new arbor. That will probably be the newest best looking part on the machine...
"Parts are not always available". Yup, thats why I have my little machine shop at the bottom of my garden!
Good video. I cringed as the slitting saw did its work. I've had bad experiences of them loading up, binding... BANG!
I'm a 37 year Journeyman Tool and Die Maker and these was my favorite jobs. Engineering on the fly is fun. The can you make this work again thing is also a good time.
Hi mate, what is a Journeyman, I have heard of it before and only from America. I am in Australia and the name Journeyman is not used here so can you please tell me what it means, thanks.🇦🇺
@@MICHAEL-ys3pu Basically means Journeyman Tool and Die Makers have to go through classes like trig, geometry, drafting etc. at the same time we go through the apprentice program where we have certain amount of hours on each machine. Lathe, horizontal and vertical mill, surface grinder, ram and wire EDM. I don't think it's done anymore like that here. Pretty much everyone specializes on one machine. We did it different in the stone age.
@@Buddha-of8fk ok thanks mate, I think a Tool maker and a Die maker are two separate apprenticeship here. I am a retired coal miner, I was a Mining supervisor when I retired after 40 years working underground and am now setting up a small workshop at home so that I can get into machining in a small way.
@@MICHAEL-ys3pu A vertical mill would be the most important. Definitely the most versatile machine. Lathe then surface grinder. Last would be a ram EDM and you can do all kinds of things. It's amazing to take a piece of metal and make something out of it.
beautiful job, Josh! love old school work
Well done. Re wobble never had any luck running slitting saw perfectly concentric despite the best of set up. Also seen same issue with Keith Fenner and Adam Booth who know a good bit more than me.
I really like you videos Jake. What a great way to justify what it takes to do these repairs!
The safest design for a swarf hook is "foil sword like" fashion - a large wooden handle (like one used for big files) which gives you a good, safe and secure (and comfortable) grip and there's no way you could put a finger "into it", neither unintentionally/ by accident nor on purpose - and when it gets accidentally yanked forcefully from your hand there are no narrow edges to do much harm to your skin and bones. Then there's a "hemispheric" steel hand guard (doesn't have to be a full hemisphere) followed by a not too long "blade" (obviously), ending in a poker-like hook - which allows you to both pull the swarf and push it away if needed.
I recognize that part! I have a 70’s OMC Mustang 1000 skid loader that used that setup. That uses a two piece drive shaft that runs to the drive sprockets in the side housings. They used a belt driven variable drive system like a snowmobile with the driven sheave on the two piece shaft. The drive sheave on the engine is opened and closed hydraulically to vary the speed. The shaft is made as two pieces with the coupler so that you can replace the drive belt. Mine was missing the original Wisconsin V4 engine, as well as many of the variable drive parts, including half of that coupler. I ended up repowering with a 24 hp Onan engine, replaced the two piece shaft with a one piece shaft and just used a chain drive single speed system.
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера.
Always an interesting project. Lots of variety in your work to keep your imagination primed to figure out how to complete a job. So cool. Thanks for the video.
Great video.
Well done on this one! Also it is a bit of a relief to see some machining on stuff that you can actually show and share all the way with us!
Cheers and God Bless.
Gotta say the chipping characteristics of that material is really interesting. I've always heard that of stainless steel, but never really worked with stainless.
You have a nice shop, and your work also looks very nice Josh. Owatonna made skid loaders for John Deere too. I have the model 70 with a 23.5 hp Onan engine, which my dad bought new in 1975 for the farm. It's a neat little loader that will get into places others can't and is surprisingly strong for its size. We used it for cleaning stalls in the dairy barns. I repowered it with a 25 hp Honda engine a few years ago which made a huge difference in reliability and power. It uses a double row chain coupling for the drive with one half being a 13 spline to the pumps, and the other half 1 1/8" keyed to the engine. The splines on the pump side were worn out and I could not source a new shaft, so I pulled the pump and disassembled it, built up the shaft, and cut the new splines on the Bridgeport. Had to make my own 60-degree cutter for the splines and because I didn't have a dividing head at the time, I made a 13-hole plate for my spindexer and used that. Been running now for about 500 hours with no issues at all. I can still get some parts from JD for it, and what I can't, I either make or source/adapt other parts to keep her going. I picked up an extremely nice original Brown & Sharpe 10" universal dividing head at auction a while back with all the manuals and tailstock for 150 bucks. I really use it more than I thought I would and have no regrets about getting it. With money getting tight, I'm starting to see quite a bit of welding and machine work through the door for things nobody used to fool with having done. Parts are getting scarce for a lot of equipment now, so I am reaping the benefits of the situation. I left a full-time job last year to work in my shop like you do. I have a 150 ft commute to work, and it feels wonderful to finally work for myself after 10 years of investing in the shop and equipment to start the business. No more corporate BS to put up with and no boss to blame for screw ups...only myself!
I wish you the best of luck in business. It's a cruel world out there for machine shops. I can tell you horror stories that would make you sick. But, at least when your boss is a dink, you can now tell him off. Lol
Your version of the coupling is neater and better ! Have a great Sunday.
Someone really butchered that old coupling. I've never seen anything like that before. It was interesting how you made the new coupling. Having all the right machines made it look easy and no doubt it was easy for you with your experience and having the right machines for the job.
Great video. No cnc just seat of the pants old fashoned maching. Thanks for making the video.
Great video, Josh. Interesting techniques. The spade drill was impressively accurate.
That turned out really nice!
Very nice work Josh.
Nice process.
The customer should be very happy.
Thanks for sharing. 👍👍
Excellent and very practical work. Thanks for sharing!
Saw your our warning about finger rings, we can’t wear jewelry at work. Had a coworker partially degloved his ring finger working around the house. The company was going to terminate his employment, half the employees threatened to walkout if they persecuted him in that way. Thanks for sharing.
Looks great Josh, it'll last longer than the skid-steer its going on will lol. Thank you for uploading! 👍👍
I'm honestly surprised the skid steer lasted this long. It's an old owatanna mustang. Those things were junk when new.
You sir - are one talented fellow.
Nicely done. Love your new lathe.
Great Work On That Part Josh
Circular saw blades do a surprisingly good job as slitting saws. Get one with a thicker kerf, and fewer teeth than you would for wood, and you're good to go.
There are lots of size options in the 3-5" range now.
Thanks I'll look into that.
I’ve had to modify slitting arbors to get the extra distance needed too. No one makes good slitting saws any more!
You could always try to chill the hand first, apply some olive oil around the ring, then in a boiling water pot heat up a big heavy spoon, then apply that spoon tip to the ring and see if you can get it to expand enough to slip off.
Good luck Mr. Topper!
The coupling you made looks more substantial anyway. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
very nice job and a great presentation
Good job 👍
Looks like the kind of machines and pieces I made as an apprentice on a coal mine in South Africa. That was a while ago.
Interesting and complex job. Great camera takes!
Great job Josh!
Nice job. Saved the machine.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Really enjoy your videos, nice work!
Great content!!
Don't square keys carry more load?
Is that why Woodruf keys have faded?
Excellent job I can’t believe the person before you actually welded it and did no machining.
I was shocked when I saw it. How could you expect that to last? I've seen some dumb repairs, this is in the top 10
hello josh it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks josh friends randy
Great video. I'm sorry if you mentioned this but I went back and looked again but couldn't see what materials that you used for the coupling and the shaft. All you mentioned for the coupling was that the original was cast and you were using 2-3/4 round stock.
Is it just 1020 mild steel or did you use something different?
Thanks.
Mike
IT'S ON THE OWNER to fix the "repair" and not use it til failure. How many headaches could have been prevented by the owner being more engaged-BUT-it gives work to Mr. Topper-so thank you poor owner
Sometimes when I can't get my ring off, liquid dishwashing soap helps. Keep an eye on that swelling. Water retention could be the sign of a multitude of issues.
Question about the bandsaw. I purchased a metalworking bandsaw at auction last year, and I am thinking about making a melamine table to go over the iron table, and putting guide slots in it for using a miter/cradle sled to make lengthy cuts like you did in the video. I am a very novice hobbyist metalworker, and I am thinking the right combination of clamps can all but eliminate the potential wavering and wandering cuts. I could never be steady enough trying to freehand a piece like you did, even with the pre-cuts. Those kinds of fixtures work great with wood. I am curious what you might think about their use in various metals. Thx!
My saw has a rip fence guide. It works great on metals.
When that gets clamped together, won't it bind since you drilled it out before splitting it? Will the customer have to shim it to get clearance? Or is it supposed to be a clamp fit?
Good job on that new coupling. I hope that old skid-steer will soon be running. Can’t help but wonder why a larger .125 thick saw wouldn’t have been a better choice for slitting that part?
I didn't want too big of a gap. Closer to closed will have more shaft engagement and more bolt engagement.
@@TopperMachineLLCI understand. Guess I would have worried more about breaking that thin saw than slightly less bolt and shaft engagement.
Super job
I'm sure I have something that has a woodruff key, but I can't remember what it is, likely one of my old lawn mowers or chainsaws. Not something you see very often, it's mostly just a regular key-way these days
VERY NICE WORK MR TOPPLER. LOVE VIDEOS LIKE THIS KEEP THEM COMING. I USED TO LOVE TO WATCH ATOM FROM ABOMS79, BACK WHEN HE USED TO DO THE REAL WORK LIKE THIS. BUT NOW HE'S TOO COMERICALIZED SO I ENJOY SOMEONE PUTTING OUT THE GOOD VIDEOS LIKE THIS.
I dont know anything about this stuff, but why did that first milling pass sound so bad? Or is that normal?
Hi there, great video. Im just learning machining and found your video very informative. Quick question - after slitting would the bore of the coupling drop out of round? I was e pecting you to somehow rebore it. Thanks
The bore does not change shape, it is still round. It just has a small gap allowing for tighter clamping.
@@TopperMachineLLC Of course, thanks for getting back to me.
good work, enjoyed....
Damn fine work Josh!
So, what should I do to add the flying handle feature to my drill press？
Get a crappy cheap Chinese drill press. LOL
Very nice, very interesting.
Reach is always a problem for slitting saws. And the arbor is always in the way. Particularly I find the bottom section of the arbor to be a problem when slicing small work off of stock held in the vise. I've considered permanently mounting a few saws on dedicated arbors that have no nut on the bottom. That way I could have the saw run true so each tooth takes a bite and the diameter of the arbor is smaller. BTW, if your ring is stuck, use some soap a lubricant and hold your hand above your head so some fluid can drain.
Stefan Gotteswinter did just that with a Proxxon carbide saw blade, me I just bored mine to 16mm to fit my arbour.😊
master! Well done!!!
The ones that welded it up and just clamped it obviously thought the machine was heading for scrap or at least I hope that was their excuse!
My guess is they "fixed" it just to sell it. Let someone else deal with it.
Very nice work.
Good job. Skip the under cut and add extra bolts in midsection for extra support?
The two homes are for cross bolts. He wanted it as close to the same as possible.
Nice job good video enjoyed.
"LIKE" button has been torqued to the manufacturer's recommended specification. "CLICK".
God forbid you should be running around Spooner there with a loose "LIKE" button !
Great video 📹
I'm old school, everything is repairable now more than ever! If its metal there are scanners and CNC machines that can replicate the part. If its plastic you can use your cellphone to capture images and create a 3D print plan that goes direct to the 3D Printer. If its computer controlled, you can get a Raspberry Pi to emulate the old computer. The biggest issues I see? Companies screaming IP Rights and attacking you because you want to keep your property running.
One of your best videos! Excellent results. One question: When you split a cylinder. does not the diameter of the bore and also the outside diameter decrease by an amount equal to the thickness of the saw you use? Would this not result in an egg shaped bore? I know in this case it probably doesn't make any difference but in a situation where precision was important, would it not?
Thanks, I am happy with how the video came out. To answer your question, No the bore does not become egg shaped. It was bored to the shaft diameter, by removing the width of the saw, I only created a small gap between the tow halves when clamped. This will give room to pull it even tighter. The bore measured 1.2505 and the shaft was 1.2495, If I had split it then bored, it would remain lose. Now by tightening the bolts, you can pull in that last 0.001 making a positive locking engagement. This is why I chose a thin slitting saw vs a 1/8" one.
@@TopperMachineLLCI 100% understand that in this particular application it is desirable. In other cases it is not. If you use a .045 saw you reduce the ID by .045. That is physics.
@@TopperMachineLLC I'm not familiar with this, I was assuming that the shaft would turn in the housing so I had the same question but if the housing actually clamps to the shaft then it all makes sense to me.
Good content 👍
What was the metal you used for the shaft & what was the metal for the coupler? Just curious,
Thanks
Both 1045
Ok thanks I was thinking that’s what it was , good content, thanks for sharing!
Excellent. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
amazing work..
Thanks a lot 😊
hi there good work , john
very nice Sir..
Out of curiosity, why did you do the last drilling operation on something I thought you had threaded?
That was to remove the thread in the top half of the coupling. It needed the thread in the bottom half, but with the split, the top half actually would be a problem.
Most excellent.