There is nothing like tech innovation(old and new) to make machine work so much better😃above all, there is also something about a freshly made new surface being cut on lathe mill or any other machine😂
Another good video Josh. Back in the day (before I retired) I worked on a lathe which had a 4 jaw tailstock chuck. This made it a whole lot easier to set up (accurately). Keep the video's coming Josh, I appreciate the effort that goes into making a video and enjoy watching your work. Thanks.
Hi Josh: The new lathe was a great investment. I see that you use it alot. It is really acurate and soes pritty large jobs. The new tail stock was anoth great buy. I am impressed at the care you put into buying a new took.
Great post! I learned first about the tailstock chuck in CEE Australia. I was able to make one 3-jaw and also a 4-jaw for my smaller lathe. A must working on tube/pipes and very useful for messed up centers like in your great example.
Watching numerous manual machining channel videos including your makes me wish I had started a career in machining rather than electronics in 1974 in the Army. My choice to go into electronics lead to a 29.5 year in electronics, Instrumentation & Controls including pneumatics and hydraulics becoming a senior technical engineer for most of those years) before my entire adult life in chronic pain and sleep deprivation took me out of work at 51, I’m 66 now. For me there has just always been something about mechanical challenges and building/repairing/reworking items that gave me a far greater since of accomplishment. Envious of your career and shop for sure. Stay careful and thanks for the videos.
I started out in the electrical/electronics end of things and came to the conclusion quickly that it was just not for me. I switched over to welding and liked it far better simply because I could see my work come together and there was actually a usable piece in front of me when I was finished. I retired a few years ago at 65 and got bored after a few months of being inactive so I purchased a small lathe milling machine combo and I have been having fun with it ever since. I recently built a small 3:1 gear box of my own design for my sons tractor to work with his PTO. Install it one way, it reduces the output speed. Install it the other and it increases the output speed. While it was not a large project, it was very satisfying to see it work when installed.
You'll love that tail-stock chuck the next time you have a larger hydraulic cylinder to machine. Very practical addition to the lathe. Thanks for another interesting video.
I'm changing your name JT to The Master of Innovation. Tailstock chuck, gigantic boring bar upside down, lathe running in reverse all great tricks of the trade. Enjoyable video thanks and have a Merry Christmas.
I've been watching you clean up these trunnion wheels through a few videos, some with the Monarch, finally an explanation of why you were using a long boring bar rather than a tool in the toolpost!
I've thought about buying one of these a number of times. I have a couple chucks with backplates I made that have center holes that I use all the time. Just clamp it to the part and then use it as if it's a center in the shaft. Works well for large tubes that have too crooked of a saw cut to use a bullnose center on too.
Noticed you tightened the 3 jaw & then added the tailstock chuck. I've found on mine, that if you loosened the 3 jaw after tightening the tailstock, runout improves. Sometimes even loosening the tail after second tightening of your main, improves it even more. May not work on yours, but give it a try.
I was going to say the same. You have to loosen the headstock chuck a bit and allow it to float. It looked like one of the jaws on the tailstock chuck wasn't making contact either. But in all fairness it's a new tool doing a real time job and trying to film, I'm sure he'll get it dialed in and master the quirks before long.
Nutation - a periodic variation in the inclination of the axis of a rotating object. What I try doing is, only chuck on 1/2" or less, especially when finish turning. That way the shaft can pivot in the chuck jaws and line up better with the tailstock. Like a universal joint in a driveshaft. I still chuck lighty on the part, bring the tailstock center in or put the steady rest in place, and then tighten up the chuck jaws last.
I seen a guy that ran the Victor lathe behind mine, he had the shaft really chucked crooked and tight before bringing the tailstock center in. The tailstock live center and tailstock quill was going around in a circle. Oil was also coming out of the oiler detent ball on top of the tailstock.
@@jeeprenegade1985 Interesting story. The man obviously didn’t understand the physics that caused the large shaft to almost wreck the lathe. Makes perfect sense to chuck the shaft as short as possible and re-chuck it after the live center is inserted.
Rap the spinal with aluminum flashing like they put under your shingles on a house big box stores has it in a roll about 6 inches wide. It works great and won't scar very precision parts of shafts I believe that will take up the space in your revolving tail stop center.
the bearings on that tailstock are deliciously smooth there is something extremely satisfying about watching you set everything up on such a large machine and have it all slide together just so with no slop 5 thou run out when its being pushed around by hand is not a lot but when its running and cutting that translates in to quite a lot of vibration ...not good for your lathe bearings even if it doesnt matter for the part....I would still use the tailstock chuck.. Thanks for sharing
another good video. Many thanks for the time you put into your You Tube presentations, I appreciate what you do and have learnt a lot. Wishing you and family a very Happy Christmas
Josh, I have a factory made 5 inch chuck like yours, I have found it many times to be too small so I built an 8 inch, I just bought an inexpensive three jaw chuck and built the rest, found them to be one of the handiest additions to a tail stock.
there are all kinds of tool head configurations for that boring bar set up. grooving, threading, triangular square, and diamond inserts. that will be the handiest set up you have in your shop when you get it supplied. another good idea is to run a coolant hole from the end of the bar to the tool end where it shoots upon the tool as it works. pipe tap the end and put a snap coupling end on it. that way you can run either coolant or forced air to the tool
The 3 jaw rotating Chuck on the Tailstock is an excellent addition to your shop. You set up your Lathe before starting it,to prevent any possible crashes is good practice for any machine or home machine shop. As always great video.
really appreciate you calling it a revolving center & not a live center...its a pet peeve of mine. great work on the tail stock, that seems super handy!
Hi Josh, new viewer here. Sure like your new lathe, I'll be you enjoy it too ! I have a job to do on something similar, but on one end of the stub shaft. I have an older 26" Monarch lathe. Rock crushing conveyor drum has BADLY worn out 2.5" diameter bearing area. It is on the same side as the big flywheel goes on, with a key way on that self same side. I MUST get the 2 diameters absolutely in line, as the bearing goes on first, then the big flywheel goes on last. Liked your new 3 jaw chuck to go on / in the tailstock, but to get both OD's absolutely in line, I take it a 4 jaw chuck would bring it as close as possible ? I too have an all manual machine shop in N.Eastern CA. Cheers and thanks Mate.
My question is about the "trunnion wheels". I know for that application you machine them flat. I worked in a Vermont factory that had overhead belt drive system that had the belt dropping down to each machine. These pulleys were just like what you are machining except that they had they were crowned to keep the belt running in the center. Would it be possible to machine a crowned pulley today?
Do you have the link to seller for the live chuck? I’ve been looking for one but they don’t look like they have the quality of the one you have. Thanks
Just looking, Josh, you probably didn't need to change the jaws around on the new tailstock chuck for the reason that gripping the job on the inside of the inner jaw in the reverse position leaves you with the same length of scroll as you would have had if you had used the jaws the normal way. Just sayin’. Keep up the good work!
Your tool post looks like a standard one, so I was wondering why you loosen the nut on the tool post rather than use the handle? It doesn't tighten well?
Great addition to the shop Josh, could it be modified to allow the jaws to fully close? No defects in these trommels, I was impressed with you using an UT thickness gauge on those. Great job and photography, thanks for sharing.
I need to take it apart and see how it was built. I'm hoping I can modify it. If not, I'll just make another. Those UT machines are great tools, and have really helped me out in the shop and field.
The fact that the chuck is already pretty steady, and the fact that you only make light cuts probably negates any benefits, but if anything, it looks a lot cooler being supported on both ends.
A while back you re-turned another trunnion wheel and your speed was faster. You got a lot of chatter and slowed it down like you are doing now. I'm wondering if you can increase your speed now that you have tail stock support and not get chatter? I don't know if anyone else said anything about tail stock support, but I asked about it.
No, it would still chatter. The boring bar was flexing, causing the chatter. I turned these for years with no tail support in the monarch. I had a special tool holder for the job that was significantly more rigid. I could run much faster in the monarch with that setup. I just need to build something better for this, since it's repeat work.
@@TopperMachineLLC Thank you for replying back. I did wonder if the chatter was the boring bar or the unsupported shaft end. Your monarch was lots larger and beefier. Probably less of an issue with no tail support on that lathe. My lathe is a toy compared to yours. I have a 3" chuck that is just collecting dust. I think you have shown me what to do with it. I have live centers of course, but a chuck on the tail stock has it's uses too.
There is NO acceptable repair to these. They are a consumable. I've seen others build them up and that she'll off and destroy the tire on the drum. It was $160,000 in damage and weeks downtime at $500,000/day lost revenue. Spending $16,000 on new ones every 5 years is a bargain.
Interesting; one puzzle though All the 3 jaw chucks I have seen I guess scroll chucks. Obviously have separate sets of inside and outside jaws. Yet you reversed these jaws is there a three jaw chuck type I haven't seen?
These are top jaws. I think the ones you are referring to are not as common. Reversible top jaws are far more common, and allow for the use of soft jaws and fixtures attached.
Nice to see another one of my brethren that uses Coçk$úçkèr as an exclamation of anger or frustration in the wild. 😂 I use it all the time and idk how many times I've had ppl think I was calling them one when I said it. Then I have to explain that I use it the way others use SOB, God Dammit or Shite. 😆 Great video Josh 👍👍
Noticed that you are working off the bare concrete floor we always used wood mat in front of all the machine tools. Fireball tool did a good video on a wood mat build for his shop. Take it under consideration your feet, legs and back will thank you when you are older. After 30+ years as a Machinist i still prefer the wood mats over the rubber mats more room under the mat for chip build up and cheaper not that i have had to buy them from my wallet.
Agreed... I worked automotive machining for around 20 years. Don't recall any issues standing in front of crankshaft grinders and other machines all day, with 1 by 2 constructed wood slats under-foot. And... moisture under rubber mats can be quite exciting.
Except for the wear areas mainly the ways on metal cutting lathes manufactured during the WW2 era. Were way overbuilt and with proper care will last many generations. These wear areas (the ways and carriage) can be repaired with Turcite and then scraped. As far as I know and don’t understand why especially on commercial lathes. The ways aren’t replaceable. The only lathe that know of,that has replaceable ways. Is Brain Blocks HUGE Monarch Lathe. I do know that certain lathes have a precision removable bed with ways near the headstock for using larger stock than the lathes normal diameter capacity. I’m not a machinist and going by many of the Machinist TH-cam Channels videos. I have an excellent memory and a lot of common sense. I believe that by watching the many videos produced by machinists over the last 10 years.That I could get by with operating many manual metal cutting machines. Of course SAFETY is of the most importance. Please excuse the extra long comment. I am caught up with everything to do with my home and yard. I’m 67 and don’t like sitting around and doing nothing. Im extremely BORED. So It’s a binge watch machinist videos day.
No need to replace the ways, just rescrape or grind in the case of modern machines with hardened ways.. There's a special epoxy that can be used on the carriage ways and once the bed ways are done they can be used to mold the epoxy to a perfect fit.. moglease (I know I spelt that wrong) is good stuff but very expensive
There is nothing like tech innovation(old and new) to make machine work so much better😃above all, there is also something about a freshly made new surface being cut on lathe mill or any other machine😂
Your videos have become as good as A-bomb's. Good work. Much appreciated
Another good video Josh. Back in the day (before I retired) I worked on a lathe which had a 4 jaw tailstock chuck. This made it a whole lot easier to set up (accurately).
Keep the video's coming Josh, I appreciate the effort that goes into making a video and enjoy watching your work. Thanks.
Hi Josh: The new lathe was a great investment. I see that you use it alot. It is really acurate and soes pritty large jobs. The new tail stock was anoth great buy. I am impressed at the care you put into buying a new took.
Great post! I learned first about the tailstock chuck in CEE Australia. I was able to make one 3-jaw and also a 4-jaw for my smaller lathe. A must working on tube/pipes and very useful for messed up centers like in your great example.
The greatest use for me is repair of electric motors where you want both bearing journals on the same axis to what ever feature you are machining.
First tailstock chuck I saw was on Cutting Edge Engineering's channel. He uses his a lot as I am sure you will too. Good choice.
Me too. Kudos!
looks like the tail stock chuck really helps
Watching numerous manual machining channel videos including your makes me wish I had started a career in machining rather than electronics in 1974 in the Army. My choice to go into electronics lead to a 29.5 year in electronics, Instrumentation & Controls including pneumatics and hydraulics becoming a senior technical engineer for most of those years) before my entire adult life in chronic pain and sleep deprivation took me out of work at 51, I’m 66 now. For me there has just always been something about mechanical challenges and building/repairing/reworking items that gave me a far greater since of accomplishment. Envious of your career and shop for sure. Stay careful and thanks for the videos.
I started out in the electrical/electronics end of things and came to the conclusion quickly that it was just not for me. I switched over to welding and liked it far better simply because I could see my work come together and there was actually a usable piece in front of me when I was finished. I retired a few years ago at 65 and got bored after a few months of being inactive so I purchased a small lathe milling machine combo and I have been having fun with it ever since. I recently built a small 3:1 gear box of my own design for my sons tractor to work with his PTO. Install it one way, it reduces the output speed. Install it the other and it increases the output speed. While it was not a large project, it was very satisfying to see it work when installed.
I like the revolving tailstock chuck, I did not know such things existed
You'll love that tail-stock chuck the next time you have a larger hydraulic cylinder to machine. Very practical addition to the lathe. Thanks for another interesting video.
Thanks for sharing. Wow, that looks handy.
I'm changing your name JT to The Master of Innovation. Tailstock chuck, gigantic boring bar upside down, lathe running in reverse all great tricks of the trade. Enjoyable video thanks and have a Merry Christmas.
Just working with what I have to get the job done. It's what any good machinist would do.
😃😃😃😃It is always good to see you. I am glad that you found a tool to help you work safer and better.
I've been watching you clean up these trunnion wheels through a few videos, some with the Monarch, finally an explanation of why you were using a long boring bar rather than a tool in the toolpost!
I've thought about buying one of these a number of times. I have a couple chucks with backplates I made that have center holes that I use all the time. Just clamp it to the part and then use it as if it's a center in the shaft. Works well for large tubes that have too crooked of a saw cut to use a bullnose center on too.
G’day mate. Looked like a relatively easy job for a change. Thanks for the video. Have a good one 👍🇦🇺
I have in the past added a VFD to a 3 phase machines to get a desired RPM not available with the gear selectors. Simple but effective solution.
good idea 👍
I got a revolving tailstock but a 4 jaw and it helps me to center it much better.
Nice. I need (want) one of those. Will have to make one. Cheers!
Noticed you tightened the 3 jaw & then added the tailstock chuck. I've found on mine, that if you loosened the 3 jaw after tightening the tailstock, runout improves. Sometimes even loosening the tail after second tightening of your main, improves it even more. May not work on yours, but give it a try.
I was going to say the same. You have to loosen the headstock chuck a bit and allow it to float. It looked like one of the jaws on the tailstock chuck wasn't making contact either. But in all fairness it's a new tool doing a real time job and trying to film, I'm sure he'll get it dialed in and master the quirks before long.
Often a sharp tap on the high side with a plastic hammer will improve the runout a couple thousands.
Nutation - a periodic variation in the inclination of the axis of a rotating object. What I try doing is, only chuck on 1/2" or less, especially when finish turning. That way the shaft can pivot in the chuck jaws and line up better with the tailstock. Like a universal joint in a driveshaft. I still chuck lighty on the part, bring the tailstock center in or put the steady rest in place, and then tighten up the chuck jaws last.
I seen a guy that ran the Victor lathe behind mine, he had the shaft really chucked crooked and tight before bringing the tailstock center in. The tailstock live center and tailstock quill was going around in a circle. Oil was also coming out of the oiler detent ball on top of the tailstock.
@@jeeprenegade1985 Interesting story. The man obviously didn’t understand the physics that caused the large shaft to almost wreck the lathe. Makes perfect sense to chuck the shaft as short as possible and re-chuck it after the live center is inserted.
Great video Josh, build you a four jaw next you'll like it, helps fine tune the job's, keep'um coming..
If you are going to make another chuck it would be handy to have a 4 jaw one another good video having the reverse speed faster is very deferent
I would just make jaws for the rotating chuck, then you can do as needed.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you and yours. Thank you for your interesting and informative video's.
Great job - thanks for sharing
I love that lathe and any new tooling you get or make for it I look forward to seeing. Especially if you make a larger live tailstock chuck.
Rap the spinal with aluminum flashing like they put under your shingles on a house big box stores has it in a roll about 6 inches wide. It works great and won't scar very precision parts of shafts I believe that will take up the space in your revolving tail stop center.
the bearings on that tailstock are deliciously smooth
there is something extremely satisfying about watching you set everything up on such a large machine and have it all slide together just so with no slop
5 thou run out when its being pushed around by hand is not a lot but when its running and cutting that translates in to quite a lot of vibration ...not good for your lathe bearings even if it doesnt matter for the part....I would still use the tailstock chuck.. Thanks for sharing
another good video. Many thanks for the time you put into your You Tube presentations, I appreciate what you do and have learnt a lot. Wishing you and family a very Happy Christmas
A very useful addition to your lathe for when you can't use a live center when the drilled center is damaged.
Josh, I have a factory made 5 inch chuck like yours, I have found it many times to be too small so I built an 8 inch, I just bought an inexpensive three jaw chuck and built the rest, found them to be one of the handiest additions to a tail stock.
A bigger one is in the future plan. Just not sure when.
Nice lathe.
I LIKED IT, GOOD JOB.THANKS FOR SHARING.
Good stuff.
I made a 4 jaw using the Bison MT4 adapter, just had to make a intermediate plate to account for hole patterns.
there are all kinds of tool head configurations for that boring bar set up. grooving, threading, triangular square, and diamond inserts. that will be the handiest set up you have in your shop when you get it supplied. another good idea is to run a coolant hole from the end of the bar to the tool end where it shoots upon the tool as it works. pipe tap the end and put a snap coupling end on it. that way you can run either coolant or forced air to the tool
At 13:35 it looks like there is a gap between the jaws and the shaft. Is it clamping on the master jaws?
The 3 jaw rotating Chuck on the Tailstock is an excellent addition to your shop. You set up your Lathe before starting it,to prevent any possible crashes is good practice for any machine or home machine shop. As always great video.
I thought I was watching Curtis at CEE there for a second! 🤣 Great job! recently found the channel and I enjoy it. Thank you!
Nicely done Josh, always enjoy catching up with your workflow buddy, Happy holidays to you and yours and here's to a wonderful new year
really appreciate you calling it a revolving center & not a live center...its a pet peeve of mine.
great work on the tail stock, that seems super handy!
love that tail-stock chuck. Is there away of adjust it to calibrate Its centre ?
Hi Josh, new viewer here. Sure like your new lathe, I'll be you enjoy it too ! I have a job to do on something similar, but on one end of the stub shaft. I have an older 26" Monarch lathe. Rock crushing conveyor drum has BADLY worn out 2.5" diameter bearing area. It is on the same side as the big flywheel goes on, with a key way on that self same side. I MUST get the 2 diameters absolutely in line, as the bearing goes on first, then the big flywheel goes on last. Liked your new 3 jaw chuck to go on / in the tailstock, but to get both OD's absolutely in line, I take it a 4 jaw chuck would bring it as close as possible ? I too have an all manual machine shop in N.Eastern CA. Cheers and thanks Mate.
My question is about the "trunnion wheels". I know for that application you machine them flat. I worked in a Vermont factory that had overhead belt drive system that had the belt dropping down to each machine. These pulleys were just like what you are machining except that they had they were crowned to keep the belt running in the center. Would it be possible to machine a crowned pulley today?
Sure can, I do it for all the belt drive steam engine stuff I work on.
If you have .005" runout right next to the tailstock, does that mean the chuck has runout or is it flexing?
Do you have the link to seller for the live chuck? I’ve been looking for one but they don’t look like they have the quality of the one you have.
Thanks
Just looking, Josh, you probably didn't need to change the jaws around on the new tailstock chuck for the reason that gripping the job on the inside of the inner jaw in the reverse position leaves you with the same length of scroll as you would have had if you had used the jaws the normal way. Just sayin’. Keep up the good work!
Whath do you think about the old monarch manual lathe?? They are so good that they say??
They are better than people say. I've ran them my whole life. They make all the other American iron look flimsy.
Would your clearance issues be helped by having your top slide parallel to lathe axis?
the clearance issue is not the compound, but the cross slide itself.
Your tool post looks like a standard one, so I was wondering why you loosen the nut on the tool post rather than use the handle? It doesn't tighten well?
Great addition to the shop Josh, could it be modified to allow the jaws to fully close?
No defects in these trommels, I was impressed with you using an UT thickness gauge on those.
Great job and photography, thanks for sharing.
I need to take it apart and see how it was built. I'm hoping I can modify it. If not, I'll just make another.
Those UT machines are great tools, and have really helped me out in the shop and field.
hollyyyy shit that huge boring bar is amazing
Will you share the link for the rotating tailstock chuck? What MT is on your lathe?
This was a one time deal. Probably an estate sale type thing.
Nice boring bar. Is that a solid carbide bar?
Do you have a eBay link for the revolving chuck? Thanks.
This is not a produced item. I am guessing it was an estate cleanout. It is the only one I have ever seen on eBay.
I think im going to buy one of the revolving tail stock what seller did you use?
They'd make good flat belt pulleys....Dave
Once you got it running, it would not take much power to maintain.
The fact that the chuck is already pretty steady, and the fact that you only make light cuts probably negates any benefits, but if anything, it looks a lot cooler being supported on both ends.
was clean up on the journals not needed? They looked a tad rough
They don't want to pay for that. Just the wheel clean up.
Curious what the wheels are from?
A while back you re-turned another trunnion wheel and your speed was faster. You got a lot of chatter and slowed it down like you are doing now. I'm wondering if you can increase your speed now that you have tail stock support and not get chatter? I don't know if anyone else said anything about tail stock support, but I asked about it.
No, it would still chatter. The boring bar was flexing, causing the chatter. I turned these for years with no tail support in the monarch. I had a special tool holder for the job that was significantly more rigid. I could run much faster in the monarch with that setup. I just need to build something better for this, since it's repeat work.
@@TopperMachineLLC Thank you for replying back. I did wonder if the chatter was the boring bar or the unsupported shaft end. Your monarch was lots larger and beefier. Probably less of an issue with no tail support on that lathe. My lathe is a toy compared to yours. I have a 3" chuck that is just collecting dust. I think you have shown me what to do with it. I have live centers of course, but a chuck on the tail stock has it's uses too.
@@de-bodgery I have a.small one that I put a.plate on with a 60° tapered center hole to use with a live center. This one is just a tad better.
You need to get a Spray welding system, then you could extend the life of those parts. Build it up then machine it back to original specs!
There is NO acceptable repair to these. They are a consumable. I've seen others build them up and that she'll off and destroy the tire on the drum. It was $160,000 in damage and weeks downtime at $500,000/day lost revenue. Spending $16,000 on new ones every 5 years is a bargain.
Do you think a 4 jaw tailstock chuck would be better than a self centreing chuck, so you can adjust the run out.
Yes and no. A 4 jaw would be awesome for turning offsets like crankshafts. But a good 3 jaw should do almost everything else.
@@TopperMachineLLC it would let you adjust out, your .005 error
I actually built one with a 4 jaw so I could true it up.
Interesting; one puzzle though All the 3 jaw chucks I have seen I guess scroll chucks. Obviously have separate sets of inside and outside jaws. Yet you reversed these jaws is there a three jaw chuck type I haven't seen?
These are top jaws. I think the ones you are referring to are not as common. Reversible top jaws are far more common, and allow for the use of soft jaws and fixtures attached.
Two piece chuck jaws seem more common in US and less so in Britain and Europe.
@@TopperMachineLLC Thanks dumb question; just goes to show what old kit I work with.
which
lathe was more ridged. the monarch or the lion?
The monarch weighed about 18000# and the lion is 8000#. So the monarch was more rigid, but the lion is far more capable of everything I do.
Nice to see another one of my brethren that uses Coçk$úçkèr as an exclamation of anger or frustration in the wild. 😂
I use it all the time and idk how many times I've had ppl think I was calling them one when I said it. Then I have to explain that I use it the way others use SOB, God Dammit or Shite. 😆
Great video Josh 👍👍
Noticed that you are working off the bare concrete floor we always used wood mat in front of all the machine tools. Fireball tool did a good video on a wood mat build for his shop. Take it under consideration your feet, legs and back will thank you when you are older. After 30+ years as a Machinist i still prefer the wood mats over the rubber mats more room under the mat for chip build up and cheaper not that i have had to buy them from my wallet.
I almost always use rubber mats. Just happened that I moved it out this day for one other job and didn't put it back right away.
Agreed... I worked automotive machining for around 20 years. Don't recall any issues standing in front of crankshaft grinders and other machines all day, with 1 by 2 constructed wood slats under-foot. And... moisture under rubber mats can be quite exciting.
Did yur Revolving Tailstock Chuck come from the US or overseas...what is the model number pls & thank ya 🖐😎
Except for the wear areas mainly the ways on metal cutting lathes manufactured during the WW2 era. Were way overbuilt and with proper care will last many generations. These wear areas (the ways and carriage) can be repaired with Turcite and then scraped. As far as I know and don’t understand why especially on commercial lathes. The ways aren’t replaceable. The only lathe that know of,that has replaceable ways. Is Brain Blocks HUGE Monarch Lathe. I do know that certain lathes have a precision removable bed with ways near the headstock for using larger stock than the lathes normal diameter capacity. I’m not a machinist and going by many of the Machinist TH-cam Channels videos. I have an excellent memory and a lot of common sense. I believe that by watching the many videos produced by machinists over the last 10 years.That I could get by with operating many manual metal cutting machines. Of course SAFETY is of the most importance. Please excuse the extra long comment. I am caught up with everything to do with my home and yard. I’m 67 and don’t like sitting around and doing nothing. Im extremely BORED. So It’s a binge watch machinist videos day.
No need to replace the ways, just rescrape or grind in the case of modern machines with hardened ways.. There's a special epoxy that can be used on the carriage ways and once the bed ways are done they can be used to mold the epoxy to a perfect fit.. moglease (I know I spelt that wrong) is good stuff but very expensive
Good
🇬🇧☹
6:23 😂
Merci !
I hope this isn’t to personal or anything. How much do you charge for a job like this? I’m only asking this out of pure curiosity.
Live Tailstock Chuck?
If you're going to the trouble of making one you might want to think about a 4 jaw
Can't hear anything you said while the lathe was running.
About the time you started machining your volume dropped way down until you finished your cut. While you’re cutting your volume drops way off.
Josh, is it necessary to tighten so much your tool post?
God Bless.
WWG1WGA
Because I push so hard, yes. I have had them turn on my in heavy cuts.
@@TopperMachineLLC why don't you invest in a dedicated ring spanner, looks much more professional.
Couldn't understand what you were saying. But that was a good thing.
4 jaw would be worlds better
man I wish you would put some wood on the ways of that lathe
Josh we cant hear you much over that screaming loud cut. Still like seeing the work though.