Malawi110 timing belt Part 3 - with a twist!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 เม.ย. 2021
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mike, you made me laugh out loud, again ! "If at first you don't succeed, give up"
Lol!
Something very satisfying about the tic tock of a torque wrench working. Love it. Not surprised to see the corrosion either.
Thanks Mike. 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it
Another invaluable video!! Thank you and keep them coming!!
More to come!
Love your video's. Very inspirational. Thanks for your help.
Thanks for watching!
Mike, you can get a bit of extra life out of that fan bearing by drilling a hole in the plastic dust cap on the inside and squirting a bit of oil into the hole letting it trickle through to both bearings. You just seal the oil hole with a bit of RTV.
Indeed but I found a John Deere water pump bearing is the same dimensions but the shaft needs cutting down
www.tiredirontractorparts.com/bearing-water-pump-shaft-a-jd9257/
Another good video thanks😁👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Yes Mike making Land Blover bether. 👍🏻 Cheers Mike 🥃
As ever another fascinating video Mike. It always frightens me to death the torque setting on that bottom pulley bolt!! Has anyone seen one ever shear off? I'm sure I remember about 20 years ago before I ever had a Land Rover one being in a friends workshop with either the bolt sheared off or the end off the crank sheared off!!!
It would take a lot of torque to snap that bolt! The breaker bar will snap first!
I was lucky enough to pick up the same dial gauge on eBay, but mine has a nicer to see scale, it only goes up to 120 inch lbs
I've that exact dial gauge , it comes in very handy sometimes.
I think mine came from a garage or shed I was cleaning out for someone.
I've also a newer version but it's quite a bit longer.
Not easy to find now
The crank bolt Mike i would mark a vertical line on the bolt with a sharpie then air gun it till the line was horizontal, love the videos wish I had your knowledge just spent 2 hours changing my handbrake cable, took longer because I broke the retaining bracket that holds the cable to the handle end that’s a bad design seems a threaded Coller press fitted to the inner bracket I separated it trying to unwind the old cable ,next minute the welder was out👍
Yes that is possible
Good tips as usual. I'll use the 9nm next time the belt is changed and turn the engine over several more times whilst retensioning the belt.
Another tip is to clean the 8mm threads in the balancer, as they can be a bit rusty.
I looked at a dial gauge but you cannot see it when the engine is in the car and you're setting the tension by yourself; my car has an aircon condenser.
I settled on a digital torque wrench that was on sale.
As for the harmonic balancer bolt, a geared torque multiplier with a 3/4" drive socket and a long handled 1/2" racket does the job. The multiplier arm rests against the locking tool arm where you have fitted the pipe.
I saw a mechanic break 2 snap-on 1/2" breaker bars, so with me looking on, I lent him my multiplier.
It looks like the injector pipes are new. Do they have a life, as my car has done 500,000 kms.
Good stuff
Maybe you could inject some oil grease into that bearing? I'm just about to try lol
Good job young felah, l got one of them tension wrench,they are old and expensive ,l done my Salisbury diff pinion tension with it. My pump setup on my Daihatsu f78 rocky is a little different than that. Saying that have you set your 4bd1 pump.
Mike. Lucky double check with your dial gauge for this injector pump phasing ! The timing should now be spot on and looks like ones found another 5.0Hp ? V.
See next video as I corrected the pump pulley
Hey Mike, the small pipe you say can't be bought, can. Part number is PEP102841 but there are two types. One doesn't have the hex end to allow easy tightening, the other does. Problem is some are stupidly expensive for a 1inch long piece of pipe that will rust too easily at least cheaper than the housing option! .. just letting you know part can be got from many sources.
I think that is the bypass hose not the bleeder
@@BritannicaRestorations What is the thread on that hose adapter Mike? Can you not source one of these (for instance); uk.rs-online.com/web/c/plumbing-pipeline/pipes-tubing-and-hoses/hose-connectors/
@@BritannicaRestorations Yep! apologies, you are correct. Annoying, that you can't get that pipe ... for sure.
The front cover needs a new bearing for sure! But it's hard to find. And expensive too. So get a new front cover including a new bearing.
Nope - the bearing can be used from a John Deere tractor and is C$30 - JD9257 just needs the shaft shortening - watch this space!
Hi Mike.
I recently discovered that the front cover seal, the one at the crank pulley, comes in two sizes. ERR4576 for the older models and ERR7143 for the newer models.
I always used the older type but it seems that I need the newer type. I'll order one just to see what the difference between the two are.
Well I know one is like a metal sleeve and one is rubber - I didn't change it as it was the original pulley and original type sprocket on the bottom - seems to be fine
Both types will fit.... The newer metal one does seem to seal a little bit better but is a b..ch to fit..
Probably an extra tooth needed on the belt/pulley Ive found the same issue on volvo diesels the tensioners seem to when the slack is removed from the belt it messes with the centering of the pulley to pump . I always go an extra tooth as a result
not as easy to fit as 200Tdi belts
Hey Mike! Lots of information like always in your videos. I got a question: how to do the tensioning without the old gauge you are using? Your videos helped me a lot restoring my 110, keep it coming
You can use a 1/4 drive balance beam with adaptors
www.ebay.com/c/3019240909
@@BritannicaRestorations Hello mike! Thanks for the advice, I´ll see if I can get something equal in germany, there are some but they call for over 400euro for a snap-on one...Be safe and stay healthy
Great stuff here as always Mike. At the end you mentioned that there's a lot of corrosion from the lack of coolant. I've taken my 300 tdi apart and am noticing lots of nasty rusty corrosion in all the water passages. Do you have a recommendation from cleaning out those passages?
You can try vinegar, or muriatic acid - be super careful with that stuff as it is very strong, and the fumes are terrible
@@BritannicaRestorations thank you!
Hi Mike, it maybe a daft question, but is there a table of torque settings for nuts/bolts & screw on sizes?
Electricians have to torque when fitting distribution boards.
Lawrie UK
Here is a rough guide
General torques for fittings
Metric M5 6 Nm
Metric M6 9 Nm
Metric M8 25 Nm
Metric M10 45 Nm
Metric M12 90 Nm
Metric M14 105 Nm
Metric M16 180 Nm
UNC / UNF 1/4 9 Nm
UNC / UNF 5/16 24 Nm
UNC / UNF 3/8 39 Nm
UNC / UNF 7/16 78 Nm
UNC / UNF 1/2 90 Nm
UNC / UNF 5/8 136 Nm
My timing belt was a lot worse than that when it was replaced after only 20k miles. I was thinking about taking off the cover in front of the injector pump once a year to check for "black candyfloss", but that pump pulley looked imaculate so I guess that is not a reliable way to check.
Is the only way to check the state of your timing belt to take the whole cover off? Do you think it might be possible to free the cover and take a peak without removing the crankshaft bolt? I suppose that would not allow replacement of the gasket though 😕
Graham
I did see someone bore a 1 inch hole in the top near the belt for inspection and fit a rubber plug in to stop muck getting in
Hi. What device are you using to hold the crank pulley whilst tightening or in my case I’m trying to hold the pulley to get the nut off ? Thanks Dominic
www.defendersource.com/threads/tdi-crank-pulley-wrench.67117/
Hi Mike, great vid. Just a question, when checking belt tension and re torquing, would it be worth loosening bolts for fuel pump pulley so that it can move as the belt tightens and effectively tighten more of the belt rather than just between crank pulley and pump pulley? I’ve just done mine today same as how you’ve explained but have been thinking on it this afternoon.
Cheers
Usually you slacken those bolts anyway in order to get the new belt on, but as for re tensioning, I do not think it makes much of a difference as it is on the slack side of the belt - you should check after re tensioning if the pins and marks line up anyway. Quite easy for the pump to jump when it is near its firing point
@@BritannicaRestorations
Thankyou 🙌, hope you’ve recovered from the flu and work is picking back up. All the best from Aus
Man, is this flu taking some shifting! I can't do videos as I am coughing and spluttering!
Uncle Mike what the best range for a torque wrench...wanted to get me one
I have 3 - 1/4 drive, 3/8 drive and 1/2
@@BritannicaRestorations k i was thinking a 1/2inch with up to 200nm
What about the bearing for the fan Mike?
How long do you think they last?
Well these bearings have been in since 1995 in many cases and done a lot of miles - this one was dry but I am trying to find an alternative
this looks promising
www.tractorjoe.com/parts/p/jd9257-bearing-water-pump-shaft-1/mt/industrial-construction/b/john-deere/m/350/?c=490&sc=1438
Needs the shaft shortening
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-Discovery-Fan-Bearing-300-Tdi-Workshop-Manual-CD/201474178255?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=201474178255&targetid=1136991246220&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071314&campaignid=10101785027&mkgroupid=102311923900&rlsatarget=aud-786643580126:pla-1136991246220&abcId=9300367&merchantid=7628262&gclid=Cj0KCQjw38-DBhDpARIsADJ3kjnrWWZMYDJJGVftXEKPs6SSttTEFH5xolbbdAQswx9l0dHPh0_mLTEaAuduEALw_wcB&pageci=faa014b4-e11a-4f99-875c-4d3ae6d979ff
I just bought one in the link from the John Deer shop next to me for C$30+tax - will be here Wednesday - just need to get JP to turn down the shaft!
Did you know Mike? Prince Philip is apparently going to be driven to his final resting place in a self designed Long Wheelbase Land Rover.
Hope they have back up in case it breaks down and plenty of spill dry for the oil slick when it is stationary
@@BritannicaRestorations Its electric, and yes they have a spare, just in case!
Just been watching "The Last of the Summer Wino's" & Wesley Pegdon described a Series 3 Landrover as a "Formula 1 Racing Car wearing Overall's",
RIP poor old Prince Philip, he was a great old character, he was well received here in Ireland when Lizzy and himself visited some year's back
Yes he was old school - BTW got your package ! many thanks - will do a video soon!
Mike
Why is the torque on the bolt so high from landrover..I'd be surprised if any engine out there was torqued to the proper spec
Bet there are a few broken breaker bars out there!
I will personaly never pay R10859.00 Rand for that gauge way to exspensive for me in canadian dollar it will cost thus 932.67 canadian dollars for one a kennedy make.Oh yea and tht is with a 24% discount.
£5 UK car boot sale 20 years ago!
@@BritannicaRestorations looked now it cost 199 pounds for one in the uk making it R3999 taken directly to Rands at the kenedy uk branch so its way over priced in South Africa . www.cromwell.co.uk
Sounds like the greedy sods are taking the p--s... 😧