How To Paint A Lower Unit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
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I’m so glad I found your channel. I’m going to buy a boat from a friend of mine that has a 1998 two stroke 150 hp and I’m definitely going to be doing a lot of DIY to it. Thank you
Awesome! Congrats on the boat and welcome to the content :)
I have a 98 Mercury Mariner 150HP 2 stroke too. Just removed it and prepping it for paint.
You are the man! I’ve learned so much about outboard engines from your channel.
Thank you! Glad to hear that :)
You are pumping out the videos man! Glad your back! I was getting worried.
Thank you! More to come :)
Generally good video. My concern would be how aggressive your prep sanding was, much down to bare metal. Most marine manufacturers use some form of corrosion resistant chemical etch to the aluminum (Zirconium, Zinc, Chromium, others) and by sanding as aggressive as you have shown, you are removing that layer you won't be able to replace. Priming obviously helps, but not to the extent that the chemical etch would. My recommendation would be to sand only as deep as necessary and try not to break through the factory primer. Then prime and paint as you had shown. If you don't like the deep scratches, you would be better off to fill them and paint over rather than sand them out of the aluminum. Keep the vids coming!
Great vids! I'm rebuilding a pair of old yamaha's and this is has saved me so much time and pain. I subscribed!
Glad it helped! Thanks for subbing
This is a really nice looking unit! The video is a little like watching paint dry, though! :)
Have you ever used a trigger cap for the rattle can? Saves on the finger.
Yes, and I love it but mine broke last time I used it and it would just push the can out of the holder when you would squeeze the trigger, I need to get another one lol they aren't expensive I just didn't have time to go to Home Depot and get another one lol
Just an idea, erosion strip on the leading edge. A heavy, clear adhesive that is applied , like a clear coat but a tape that will take some impact damage.
Another idea have you ever bead blasted the lower unit? A heavy Teflon paint is close to bullet proofing the surface.
Never bead blasted, but I've heard of people doing that
Great job! very good indeed. Could you ever make a video about scanners and (generic) software for diagnosing engine problems? I'm very interested in this subject and I have difficulty finding information.
Possibly, I just don't have a lot of experience or have an aftermarket scanner
I re-painted mine while still attached to the outboard engine. Sand. Mask. Wipe with wax & grease remover. Marine zinc-chromate primer. Paint. Clear coat. Voila.
Nice job! When I was going fishing on the river 3-5 times a week (miss those good old days), my skegs were always bare aluminum, as we have a lot of sandbars and shallows here, so I only painted them once a year, as part of general maintanence before winter storage) Used straight up paint without primer or clearcoat, as there was no sense in it - it would sand away after 2-3 days of fishing) No big deal in fresh water, but if salt water is where the outborad will be used, you want as much of those coats as reasonably possible, because corrosin will eat aluminum away.
The paint off gasses when drying as well so well ventilated
Love the DIY videos, and a little focus on some two strokes. It'd be only too easy to focus on brand new boats. I re-painted a spare prop, and indeed all of the work is down to the prep. The process is very similar to painting a lower unit.
How'd the paint hold up on the prop? Was it stainless or aluminum? I've never tried to paint a prop but am super interested in it
@@BornAgainBoating Pretty good so far. I was worried it'd start peeling from the tips of the prop blades first, but after probably 6 months so far, it hasn't lost any of the paint.
I used a wirebrush on a cordless drill to remove all the old paint which was time-consuming. Then I used a dremel to rough up the surface and get the hard to reach spots. Then an acetone bath, 3x coats of self etching primer, finally finishing it off with multiple light coats of gloss white paint. It was a 13x19K Yamaha OEM prop (Stainless).
I've since done another Yamaha 13x19K prop, and it came out even better, based on my experience first time (I allowed more time for the paint to cure, it seems thicker which I suspect will last longer)
@@jrbuch interesting! Thank you, I think ima try that!
@@BornAgainBoating Hope it goes well. Would love to see a video of it sometime if you decide to make one.
I used two wooden stands, with a steel rod through the center of the prop to support it while spraying.
Great job! I actually used the same clear coat on an evinrude restoration and it orange peeled the whole engine. I had to start all over. I to am hesitant on using clear coat. I wish I knew what went wrong.
I was waiting for this video I just ordered the paint!!!!!
Nice lol
Hello if I'm painting the whole engine do I have to take the calling off... and do I need primer paint and clear coat.... is the primer absolutely necessary???
Can you do a video on painting and prepping stainless trim tabs that live in salt water?
Not sure when, maybe a video on painting stainless steel, I don't have a ton of experience painting metal, but I'll try anything and video it for you lol Prop Speed is expensive but there are products like that that many people use on trim tabs for that reason, or other similar bottom paints
Great video! But you should point out that the wire brush should be aluminium/same as what you use it on. Its a harsh environment down there.
My friend.....2k paint and 2k clear. Especially the 2k clear. Has its own catalyst instead of air dry. And will be fuel/solvent resistant 👍
In the deep gouges could you use epoxy based fairing compound like you would use Bondo?
Exactly, that would work fine, most epoxies should stick to aluminum
If I may add my two-pence worth, ground contact points and anode should always be bare metal so any paint on them needs to be stripped off at the prep stage. Pitting and scratches could be fixed with body tiller and sanded smooth. Light scratches can be fixed just by using filler-type primer and sanding between coats with 400 grit sand paper. (Wet preferably). Acrylic clear coats do not stand well and generally will be diluted by any petroleum product like gearcase oil. Better use a 2k epoxy clear coat. It comes in spray cans, is easier to apply and will stand up a lot longer than acrylic or any water based products. Always wear a respirator when spraying 2k. Regards !
Thank you, great info!
What are you using to clean the unit with?
soon this is BAB University.🎉
Yup :)
How’s the paint job holding up??
No issues yet, check back in another 8 months I'll have another video and we'll see how it holds up, also tracking hours ;)
Very nice!
I am curious why you did not first use Marine zinc-chromate BEFORE using the grey primer? Zinc Chromate is always vital to make this work long term. It also is a barrier needed on bare aluminum in saltwater conditions. That greenish color you sanded off was that protective layer. It is expensive stuff but amazon has it for around 14 a can. Please guys, do not ever skip this step. Electrolysis is also stopped in part by using this stuff.
Easy answer, I forgot too :/ lol but you are correct chromate is a necessary step
Thanks for the great videos.
I have the same outboard. How many cans of primer, paint, and clear will I need to paint the entire outboard?
Ummmm, just guessing but I would say 3 cans of primer and paint and 2 cans of clear coat would be enough to make the entire engine look incredible :) and I would invest in the can trigger thing to save your finger :)
Do you ever use Zinc chromate primer? It's the floureescnt yellow/green stuff for aluminum.
Absolutely, I just forgot to lol :/ (And I won't be sanding it all off and repainting either lol this boat gets straight bank and mangrove fishing in the rivers, it'll get repainted in a couple years anyway :)
Juat curious what you would charge for a job like this?
Well, not really sure, personally I really only do work for content now, but if you hire someone, you've got about 2 hours in sand and prep, then about 3-4 hours in painting, but it's mainly 15 minutes at a time, so lets say 2-3 hours in painting and finishing. So that would be the time it would take to do it, and then plus materials and tax. Depending on the hourly rate, I would say you would be somewhere around $500-$800
Great video and by the way where did you get the two-headed wire brush?
Thank you :) and just at Home Depot, you can get a 3-pack for $5 lol :)
www.homedepot.com/p/Anvil-Stainless-Steel-Mini-Wire-Brushes-3-Pack-SMB3-ANV/309996631
Link to the spray paint please?
Great video! Question please.
You mentioned you must paint the lower unit. Does this pertain to saltwater applications only.
My Mercury only sees freshwater.
Thx!!
If you spend a ton of time in the water, yes, even fresh water too :) If it's just the skeg that's got the paint missing, you don't have to pull the lower, you can just pull the prop or even bag it up and just sand and paint the skeg while on the boat! :)
@@BornAgainBoating Great, good advice and a great video.
Thanks for taking my question!
Used the same clear when I repainted my 90 Etec. I did use an etching primer on the metal parts. Don’t know if that made a difference.
Etching primer is a great primer
I have corrosion on the skeg. What is the best way to address this before painting?
Hi, This is Rose, I help Aaron with the comments, this is a nice question and I'll put this on the list for featuring on the podcast! If you haven't already, check it out and subscribe! www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
I’ve had a problem with. Acrylic paint and clear coat it can crack You don’t have that problem with enamel’s. I find I painted a Suzuki cowling and the clear cracked on it.
Yeah, that must be it, the acrylic clear coats crack, I've had that happen to me before but I didn't put it together that it was the acrylic clear coat and tno the enamel, why would a marine company sell a cowling clear coat that is acrylic???? lol thank you for commenting!
@@BornAgainBoating yeah right it does not hold up well I’m doing my 1994 evinrude 25 hood over and leg as they never used primer on their motors towards the end
I just got my outdrive painted by a "professional" who spray-painted the power tilt rods... i thought this was a big no-no as it puts wear on the gaskets? Am i correct? (they also painted my stainless steel duo-props) Arggg =(
Yes, you are correct, this is very bad and you need to get that paint off the trim rams because it can mess up the seals, but don’t scratch the paint off because you can scratch the rams in the process :/ use maybe a paint remover of some sort. That is an unfortunate event :(
Nice job!!
Thanks!
Hey how come you are not at the marina anymore?
Still do some work at the marina but focused on creating more videos for you!
Does anyone use Pacifica on their transom mount transducers?
Best thing for lower unit is using ceramic wax Wow does it work
Interesting, that's a great tip, thank you!
Hi can u review vide0 0n your workshop?
Possibly in the future!
What brand contact cleaner do you use?
I like the Yamaha contact cleaner but it's hard to come by right now :(
Thanks for the good products. This video could have been literally 25mins shorter though
Next time!
Dude I love you
That's what she said ;) lol
I’m just going to rip the paint off the next voyage 😊
Lol true that
put some bed liner on it.
A lot of people do that! Does create drag though, but that's negligible