Thanks for watching! I just got back from a fantastic two-week trip to Colorado, and the videos from that trip will start next week. Stay tuned! -Tristan
I am so excited to see your Colorado videos. We go yearly and do lots of hiking, I’m sure we will learn about new places from your videos. Literally obsessed with your Channel,
I did special electrical modifications for government armored Chevy suburbans . if you take off the plastic rear panel above brake light, there is an access point to the interior of the vehicle, giving you a clean factory look. we also used wire dressing and magnetic studs(amazon) to dress cabling along roof rack.
Thank you! Do you happen to know if this access is standard for American sold SUVs of that size? I have an old 02 sequoia and I’m praying for something like that to be a standard as we plan on adding some harbor freight solar
Let me voice one concern about the routing of your cables. At the point where you bring the cables into the interior of your car, you have the cables sandwiched between the rubber molding and the metal of the body on which the molding normally sits. Each time you close the hatch, the cables will be pressed against that metal. At this point you may already have an indentation in the cable insulation. As time goes by, there is the potential for the insulation to be severed to the point where it will short out against the metal. My solution might be to drill and file the metal so that the wire insulation is not compressed between the molding and the metal. Just a thought.
I really appreciate that you found your Thule used.....it's real life for most of us. Meaning you didn't search them out for free or buy one new.....that's another reason I like your channel so much, you are keeping it real !! I can't wait to see your new adventures.
It took a bit of looking! They're a hot commodity. I paid $100 for the gray one on the RAV4 when I got it and had to pay double that for this one. Still a decent price, though. Thanks Brigitte!
Looking good. If I can make a suggestion. I would recommend a larger fender washer on the underside for maximum surface area so there is even less of a chance for rip out.
The fender washers are a good idea. I would also consider using some blue Locktite thread locker on the threads. Loctite is a liquid that is placed on bolt threads that once it dries, prevents the nut from loosening. On many of the rough roads you travel on, the vibration could cause the nuts to loosen and possibly let your solar panel come loose. For a little extra security you might consider using locking nuts instead of the wing nuts. They are a lot more secure. Better safe than sorry.
Good deal Tristan. Bit of advice if I may with using the Jackery 1000 with a solar panel in a car in the manner you’re using. Plug the solar panel into the Anderson input and reserve the 8mm input to receive power from a switched cigarette adapter. The way Jackery have wired the precedence of the inputs will allow you feed it from the alternator /starter battery when the engine is running and from solar at all other times automagically. That’s how I have mine (90W panel from Cascadia4x4) wired up. Pretty mind blowing, actually.
Some low strength Loc Tite (242) on those threads for the wingnuts will keep them from backing off as you are driving down the road. Enjoy all your videos !
Actually you just need to turn the 4 brackets 90deg so that the narrower part of the bracket is along the slope of the box. If you want it’s also easier to bend the leg part of the bracket to match the slope of the box cover.
When I installed my four Renogy panels on the roof of my fifth wheel, I used nothing but nye-lock stainless nuts. Haven't had any loosen up. If your not planning on installing any more than one panel, you could get away with a lot smaller wire size. Max output from a 100 watt panel is about 6.8 amps. Size 14 stranded wire would have worked great and takes up less room. Like always, you did a great job on your installation. Hope you don't get offended by my idea. Thanks for sharing.
The thickness of the wire from the solar panel or “gauge” of the wire is somewhat dictated by the length of the wire from the panel to the controller or Jackery. You cannot go wrong by using thicker pure copper wire. You can err by using thinner gauge wire or cable.
Thank you Tristan...I just bought a used Thule off Facebook marketplace and going back and forth on solar options. Still haven't decided 100% on either a portable powerstation or battery with inverter but have 100% decided to mount my panel on top of my cargo box after seeing this video. Thanks again...love your videos 😉
I did a similar set-up with my Crosstrek. Bluetti/ICECO/Renogy100watt mounted on my expedition basket for an Arizona to Wisconsin and back camping roadtrip in September. Other than all the deer (omg) and mosquitos, my only issue for me was the dc cigarette car cord connecting the Bluetti and ICECO that was easily dislodged and had to be checked often. I will never travel or camp with ANY type of ice cooler ever again. I even made hot coffee with this system every morning. I do wish I had more headroom in the Crosstrek on those nights I didn't want to set up my tent. Love your videos!!!
Please do not buy products made with slave labor in communist China. That includes Renogy and Bluetti appliances. The communist party in China has almost one million Uyghur people in concentration camps and forces them to assemble solar and other appliances as well as make clothing without receiving pay. Here is a Wiki link for more info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uyghur_genocide
Well done, Tristan! Great tutorial video. I want to do the exact same thing on a Thule cargo box. That will leave one side of my roof top platform room for a canoe or fishing kayak. You made it easy to understand and provided information on the necessary parts to get the job done.
Thought about doing something similar but not attached solar panels to a Thule box. Looks good and now something else to consider for a future project. Cool! Thanks for the videos.
Just a suggestion: get a "suitcase" style (with 30'+ cables), so you can position your vehicle in the shade, and your panels in the sun. Mounting them on top of the vehicle, in a static position, is not very efficient, obviously.
@@JudithLawrence718 While that is a valid point, it doesn't negate mine. Solar panels ARE more efficient when facing the sun directly. Also, if they're portable/movable, one can place them in sun as opposed to shade, where you typically want your vehicle. Of course, if it's 20 degs. out, it only makes sense to position your vehicle where it will get full sun. Also, if you have a relatively small battery to charge - or one that is not hungry for a charge, it may make little difference. Additionally, I'm unable to capture the rays while I'm driving. For my needs, however, I've found 30' (10awg) cables connected to 200w suitcase style panels, charging a 1300Wh lithium battery to be optimal. YMMV
That looked so easy lol. It will be nice to have the solar on the jackets all the time no worries for power. Can't wait to see what you got into im Colorado! Thanks for sharing your adventures!
Tristan thank you for answering my questions about finding camp sites. In reference to the video about installing a solar panel, I think the wiring install could use some improvement. Time 10 minute 29 seconds on the video. May I make a suggestion or two. The routing under the weather stripping, across what may be scarp metal may not be wise. You may find that under the large piece of plastic that is above the tail light may be a hole that is meant the vent the body to the outside. Wires fed into such a hole would be accessible be pulling them under the inside body panel (yes the big plastic one). Routing them this way they could exit the panel inches from the Jackery. This way require cutting two holes in plastic. If correctly placed they will not be very noticeable, detracting from appearance and resale value of the vehicle. What if there is no hole under the plastic piece? A hole drilled in the body where the lift gate meets the body will lead to the same place. A large grommet would be required to protect the wiring as it went through the body. If I were there I would know more and even help you which the install. If you are ever in norther California near Yosemite let me know.
I was thinking this as I watched. The metal where the weather stripping clamps onto could cut through that insulation and cause preventable issues. Otherwise, clean and easy install without putting holes in the body.
For the cargo box? No water has gotten in during the 50,000 miles I've driven with the other setup. It's not an issue. I'm not concerned about the gap in the weather stripping if that's what you're referring to.
Great idea. You have a natural tilt for the panel when the Thule is open. I too see future problems where the wiring is routed through the weather stripping. Maybe with a grinder you could cut a small piece out of the metal to allow the wiring to pass without chaffing?
Good job! Jackery are VERY protective of their proprietry 8mm input and do not like MP4 adaptors being used, though of course it works. It just means you probably won't be getting free Jackery Solar Generators or gear as you did with Renogy who I also use for my 2 x 200W panels.
That's about what I did with the cables on my SUV. Gorilla tape is good for holding wires in place. In a couple of places I used sticky backed velcro if I thought I might need to move it out of the way in the future.
The routing of the cables under the lower rear door weatherstrip would be my only concern with this setup. If you get rearended or back into something hard enough to push your rear door in, there is a REALLY good chance that you will completely cut through one or both wires. Or worse yet, short your wires either together or against that horizontal body seam. If you choose to leave it there, you might consider an inline fuse as close to the panel as possible.
Great setup. I wish I would've put a set up like that on my Subaru, "Adventure Wagon". I noticed you called your rig "The Adventure Mobile". I'd been calling my camper Modified Subaru Forester, "The Adventure Wagon", for quite a while.
From an engineering perspective you really need to fit extra large flat washers either round or square with rounded corners on the inside of the panel mount's to distribute stress loads so the panel doesn't fly off and become a flying projectile.
Keep a watch on where your cables enter the vehicle at the bottom of your lift gate. There could be chaffing where the cables rub against that metal edge . I would have ground out a section for the cables to go in further and added some more protection around the cables. Just an idea...
I'd rather just buy a new set of $15 cables if/when the time comes than mess around with grinding out a section in the metal, but to each his own. Thanks Mike!
@@SUVRVing This could be a fire hazard if a short occurs. It wouldn't take much to mitigate the potential problem. Place a piece of durable, non conducting material between the wires and the chassis edge. It is a cheap, easy fix to keep from having a potential fire.
Yeah man. I really admire this guys creativity and DIY approach but some things you gotta get done properly, electrics is one of them! This looks dodgy IMO.
I would have loved to hear how often the solar panel topped off your Jackery 1000 based on normal usage. and how it performed on various weather conditions.
Just opening and closing the tailgate would cut through the insulation on the wire and cause a short that could possibly lead to a fire. You could possibly run it through the top where the other wires for the tailgate is run it would be a much cleaner install and not to mention a safer.
Please do not buy products made with slave labor in communist China. That includes Renogy and Bluetti appliances. The communist party in China has almost one million Uyghur people in concentration camps and forces them to assemble solar and other appliances as well as make clothing without receiving pay. Here is a Wiki link for more info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uyghur_genocide
@@amyrodgers9887 Thank you for your reply. Apple is an American owned company based in Cupertino, CA., that has its products assembled in communist China. As of the last 24 months, Apple has moved about 30% of its assembly process to Vietnam and is quietly moving more of its assembly out of communist China. Also, Samsung and Tosiba, a South Korean conglomerate and a Japanese corporation, have completely closed their facilities in communist China. Bluetti and Renogy are partially owned by the CCP (Communist Party of China) and serve the interests of Chinese communist party members. In fact, all companies of any size in communist China must have members of the communist party as owners. Bluetti and Renogy are assembled by slave labor forced from imprisoned Uyghur people who are not members of the majority race in China.
As to routing the cable into the SUV, I've had a Goal Zero panel on top of my 2004 Grand Cherokee for about 3 years now. Just fed the cable in through the rear driver side door, which I don't use much, and let the door gasket deal with it. It's worked fine with no water leakage so far with no hole in the Jeep and minimal work to install. I did use two aluminum angle bars to make a frame on the roof that connects to the pre-existing roof channels, then I bolted the panel into that frame.
Nice solution. You might consider putting a small air damn around the leading exposed edge of the panel to prevent bugs and road debris from damaging the panel's underside.
A word of warning, I do not recommend running the thick wires through the rear door seal. It can cause exhause gases to leak into the cabin. Also, as others have noted, larger fender washers on the inside of the carrier.
Great explanation on installing the solar panel. Looking forward to your Colorado videos. We were in the Flat Tops Wilderness Area north of Glenwood Springs over Labor Day; we love that area.
Please do not buy products made with slave labor in communist China. That includes Renogy and Bluetti appliances. The communist party in China has almost one million Uyghur people in concentration camps and forces them to assemble solar and other appliances as well as make clothing without receiving pay. Here is a Wiki link for more info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uyghur_genocide
Are you aware Yakima sells a cargo carrier with a solar panel attached. It is the CBX 16 Roof Box starting at $1200.00. Great video and ingenuity build.
Unfortunately it only produces around 35 watts at 5 v and I don't believe you can connect it to a jackery or the like. It only has 2 USB ports that you can draw power from but I could be wrong... 🤔
Ive been looking for a way to mount another solar panel on my cargo box and make use of that space. Good call with the rubber washers and the panel's inset mounting holes!
I'm so glad to see someone actually get solar straight to a power bank I couldn't find many videos of people doing that so I'm glad you did because I don't have the room for a battery and inverter and all those extra cables I just want to hook straight to my power bank
@@kimberlyferrier1312 and at the other end of the spectrum, being an old fart, I can tell you how well Locktite RED works! I once had to leave a bicycle rack on the back bumper of a car that I traded in. I could not break loose the nuts attached with Locktite RED!
Your Channel popped up in my queue and so Happy / New Sub your simple detailed genius solar panel cargo box mounting i did not think of solves I thought I had NO more?? roof top install space. GREAT JOB‼️Vid‼️👍👍⬆️
I think I would have gone ahead and just used an Anderson cable (with adapter) instead of those bulky MC4 cables. With one 100 watt panel, that should work fine. Also, I'm concerned about how you routed the cables behind the weatherstripping. Your wire is pushed up against that metal edge and is probably going to wear over time. At the very least, you need something to keep that wire off of the metal. But I'm sure other commenters would have better ideas for routing that wire.
I'll keep an eye on it. If it wears away, I'll just get new cables for $15. If I wanted to be proactive, I'd just wrap the cables in electrical tape. Not a big deal either way. I used the MC4 cables instead of the Anderson because it's only this Jackery (the 1000) that has the Anderson. I'll also use this setup with the 1500, which doesn't have the Anderson.
@@SUVRVing The issue with those cables wearing away the insulation at the point where it enters the rear door is that they are electrical and could spark (not a lot, since the voltage is probably 20v). You might have bedding and other flammable stuff in that area. I know you are going to keep an eye on it, but that sort of stuff gets forgotten. You should be able to drill a hole in that area which can be made safe with a grommet and sealed up so it will not leak.
Very nice setup with one exception. The wires entering the vehicle may short against the body and perhaps cause a fire. I would do that part differently to make it safer. Greetings from sunny Jamaica.
Hiw r u finding about using that jackrey input to charge it? I find u hv to check that connection periodically, it can come loose. U can change the connection to an Anderson connect. 😉
Ive got that box myself, off craigs as well like 4 or 5 years ago, it's great, but it's not exactly 100% water tight, still it's great to have the extra space, ive thought about the solar on top, I even thought about a diesel heater in side with the vent coming down into my truck topper as needed. Cool to see you set it up!
Got a Jackery 300 for my two rigs and move it between the two. I just use my solar panels when camped otherwise I directly connected the Jackery to my battery to get charging voltage. Once home I always give the Jackery a good charge off the 110V ... never used a fridge or a cooler .. take up too much room. My rigs are a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr and a 2021 Subaru Crosstrek that I lifted and put on all terrain tires.
@@SUVRVing A question? Did you mention and I missed it, but can you not open the Thule cargo box at maybe a 45 degree angle and get a better presentation to the sun? Just a morning thought! 🤠
Hello Tristan! I was wondering if you could tell me the name of the trail outside Phoenix that has the cliff dwellings in the unbelievable canyon. The video title is "Jaw Dropping! " Thanks!
Thank you for this moving. Just starting SUV life full time so I appreciate this video. So there was no leaking through the neoprene washers either or did you experience any rain? Thanks!
Thanks for sharing. I had also thought of using a rack storage unit (Thule, Yakima) and a Jackery as a power system. You have confirmed it is possible and that it works. I am wondering, though, if it might be possible to put the whole power system in the Thule or Yakima. In other words have the panel on the top of the storage unit and have the charge controller and battery in the Thule (or have two Jackery's, one charging in the Thule and one being used and swapping them when the used one is low on power).
You certainly could, but I don't see any advantage of doing that. If you buy two, you're spending twice as much to get essentially the same thing, and I'm not quite sure what the advantage would be over routing the cable through and into the car. And if you have just one up there, you'd have to take it out every day to actually use the thing. And you wouldn't be able to monitor it to make sure it's charging or anything like that. I wouldn't do it, but if it works for your situation, go for it.
@@SUVRVing Thanks for your feedback. It is helpful. I am going to check my Honda Element and see if I can route the wires through the way that you did.
Great videos. I've always enjoyed watching your travels. Please be careful with the seals on your vehicles. Carbon monoxide might become an issue 🤔. I'm not an expert, but just a thought 👍
I think you were only seeing 50w because the battery was at 96%, I expect the internal solar controller was limiting the current. Would be good to see what you achieve in full sunlight with a half full battery 🙂 thanks for the vid 👍
I have a van the size of the NV200 and found that I can put a folding 100w solar panel out on the long sloping dashboard under the windscreen and leave it there permanently - an indoor solar panel that clearly doesn't need holes to wire into the battery.
Great video! I'm new to solar and would like to know more about the Jackery. is it like a battery/inverter combo? Is that how you were able to not need a separate AGM or Lithium battery?
NOTES TO SELF: 1) Turn the brackets (and possibly bend) so they lay flat on the Thule box. 2) Use 4 nylon lock washers inside. 3) Use 4 large fender washers inside the box.
Thanks for watching! I just got back from a fantastic two-week trip to Colorado, and the videos from that trip will start next week. Stay tuned! -Tristan
Can't wait to see videos of your recent trip! Thanks, Tristan!
👏👏👏
11:40 NOooooo I don't think this is going to (work) Last long.... it may cut and short out!
I am so excited to see your Colorado videos. We go yearly and do lots of hiking, I’m sure we will learn about new places from your videos. Literally obsessed with your Channel,
Should cut or grind out a small cavity for the cables to nestle into, then silicone caulk in place to prevent any movement.
I did special electrical modifications for government armored Chevy suburbans . if you take off the plastic rear panel above brake light, there is an access point to the interior of the vehicle, giving you a clean factory look. we also used wire dressing and magnetic studs(amazon) to dress cabling along roof rack.
Great suggestion. The cable rubbing against the metal edge is a sure fire way to a short and a fire.
Great to know, thank you
Thank you for this
I just bought a beat up 99 c1500 chevy suburban and I'm wanting to put a 300-525w panel on top.
Thank you! Do you happen to know if this access is standard for American sold SUVs of that size? I have an old 02 sequoia and I’m praying for something like that to be a standard as we plan on adding some harbor freight solar
Let me voice one concern about the routing of your cables. At the point where you bring the cables into the interior of your car, you have the cables sandwiched between the rubber molding and the metal of the body on which the molding normally sits. Each time you close the hatch, the cables will be pressed against that metal. At this point you may already have an indentation in the cable insulation. As time goes by, there is the potential for the insulation to be severed to the point where it will short out against the metal. My solution might be to drill and file the metal so that the wire insulation is not compressed between the molding and the metal. Just a thought.
I really appreciate that you found your Thule used.....it's real life for most of us. Meaning you didn't search them out for free or buy one new.....that's another reason I like your channel so much, you are keeping it real !!
I can't wait to see your new adventures.
It took a bit of looking! They're a hot commodity. I paid $100 for the gray one on the RAV4 when I got it and had to pay double that for this one. Still a decent price, though. Thanks Brigitte!
Looking good. If I can make a suggestion. I would recommend a larger fender washer on the underside for maximum surface area so there is even less of a chance for rip out.
I was thinking the same thing as I was editing the video and watching it back. Thanks 👍
@@SUVRVing Yes, most definitely. those big washers can’t be pulled through the plastic! Safety feature.
I agree 100%
The fender washers are a good idea. I would also consider using some blue Locktite thread locker on the threads. Loctite is a liquid that is placed on bolt threads that once it dries, prevents the nut from loosening.
On many of the rough roads you travel on, the vibration could cause the nuts to loosen and possibly let your solar panel come loose.
For a little extra security you might consider using locking nuts instead of the wing nuts. They are a lot more secure. Better safe than sorry.
Just a thought maybe rotate the Z brackets a quarter of a turn to allow them to sit more flush on the box
Good deal Tristan. Bit of advice if I may with using the Jackery 1000 with a solar panel in a car in the manner you’re using. Plug the solar panel into the Anderson input and reserve the 8mm input to receive power from a switched cigarette adapter. The way Jackery have wired the precedence of the inputs will allow you feed it from the alternator /starter battery when the engine is running and from solar at all other times automagically. That’s how I have mine (90W panel from Cascadia4x4) wired up. Pretty mind blowing, actually.
Some low strength Loc Tite (242) on those threads for the wingnuts will keep them from backing off as you are driving down the road. Enjoy all your videos !
Actually you just need to turn the 4 brackets 90deg so that the narrower part of the bracket is along the slope of the box. If you want it’s also easier to bend the leg part of the bracket to match the slope of the box cover.
When I installed my four Renogy panels on the roof of my fifth wheel, I used nothing but nye-lock stainless nuts. Haven't had any loosen up. If your not planning on installing any more than one panel, you could get away with a lot smaller wire size. Max output from a 100 watt panel is about 6.8 amps. Size 14 stranded wire would have worked great and takes up less room. Like always, you did a great job on your installation. Hope you don't get offended by my idea. Thanks for sharing.
The thickness of the wire from the solar panel or “gauge” of the wire is somewhat dictated by the length of the wire from the panel to the controller or Jackery.
You cannot go wrong by using thicker pure copper wire. You can err by using thinner gauge wire or cable.
I will never be doing anything like this myself, but I enjoy watching you doing it none the less.
Thank you, Tristan! I have wanted to do this on my Expedition, but my son didn’t think that it would work. Now, we even have a “how to” video! ❤️
It's worked great on the RAV4 and has worked great so far (4000+ miles and counting) on the Yukon.
Thank you Tristan...I just bought a used Thule off Facebook marketplace and going back and forth on solar options. Still haven't decided 100% on either a portable powerstation or battery with inverter but have 100% decided to mount my panel on top of my cargo box after seeing this video. Thanks again...love your videos 😉
I did a similar set-up with my Crosstrek. Bluetti/ICECO/Renogy100watt mounted on my expedition basket for an Arizona to Wisconsin and back camping roadtrip in September. Other than all the deer (omg) and mosquitos, my only issue for me was the dc cigarette car cord connecting the Bluetti and ICECO that was easily dislodged and had to be checked often. I will never travel or camp with ANY type of ice cooler ever again. I even made hot coffee with this system every morning. I do wish I had more headroom in the Crosstrek on those nights I didn't want to set up my tent.
Love your videos!!!
Please do not buy products made with slave labor in communist China. That includes Renogy and Bluetti appliances. The communist party in China has almost one million Uyghur people in concentration camps and forces them to assemble solar and other appliances as well as make clothing without receiving pay.
Here is a Wiki link for more info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uyghur_genocide
thanks for your video. You are one of the first TH-camrs that actually show the thought/mounting process for the install.
Using composite shims like when you're installing doors would level out those panels
Yukon looks awesome. Nice job on solar.
Thank you Tristan, I learn so much from you sharing your experiences.
Thanks for watching!
Well done, Tristan! Great tutorial video. I want to do the exact same thing on a Thule cargo box. That will leave one side of my roof top platform room for a canoe or fishing kayak. You made it easy to understand and provided information on the necessary parts to get the job done.
Thought about doing something similar but not attached solar panels to a Thule box. Looks good and now something else to consider for a future project. Cool! Thanks for the videos.
Thule has been out of a lot of their boxes for quite sometime now - so it's great that you were able to find a used one.
I wouldn't have bought a new one even if they were available. Too expensive!
Now that I have redone my Sunurban build inside this is my next step. Thank you once again for a great video.
PERFECT. This helps me get a better idea for my solar configuration. Thank you for the update at the end of the video!
Has your set up experienced any wet weather? Curious about water leakage through the back door.
😂 "Bolt" 😂.
Thanks for another great tutorial.
Yes, it rained through the night one night. No issues.
@@SUVRVing great!!!
Coool... while I'm recovering from hip injuries, getting so much out of your trips..thank you! Geoff Marsh
Hope you recover fully!
That’s exactly the set up I would chose. Already made up my mind on it over a yr ago. Renegy to Jackery.
It works great!
It would also be more aerodynamic to turn the bracket
Just a suggestion: get a "suitcase" style (with 30'+ cables), so you can position your vehicle in the shade, and your panels in the sun. Mounting them on top of the vehicle, in a static position, is not very efficient, obviously.
@@donwyates if you notice , he doesn't spend much time in his vehicle during the heat of the day unless driving.
@@JudithLawrence718 While that is a valid point, it doesn't negate mine. Solar panels ARE more efficient when facing the sun directly. Also, if they're portable/movable, one can place them in sun as opposed to shade, where you typically want your vehicle. Of course, if it's 20 degs. out, it only makes sense to position your vehicle where it will get full sun. Also, if you have a relatively small battery to charge - or one that is not hungry for a charge, it may make little difference. Additionally, I'm unable to capture the rays while I'm driving. For my needs, however, I've found 30' (10awg) cables connected to 200w suitcase style panels, charging a 1300Wh lithium battery to be optimal. YMMV
That looked so easy lol. It will be nice to have the solar on the jackets all the time no worries for power.
Can't wait to see what you got into im Colorado! Thanks for sharing your adventures!
Tristan thank you for answering my questions about finding camp sites. In reference to the video about installing a solar panel, I think the wiring install could use some improvement. Time 10 minute 29 seconds on the video. May I make a suggestion or two. The routing under the weather stripping, across what may be scarp metal may not be wise. You may find that under the large piece of plastic that is above the tail light may be a hole that is meant the vent the body to the outside. Wires fed into such a hole would be accessible be pulling them under the inside body panel (yes the big plastic one). Routing them this way they could exit the panel inches from the Jackery. This way require cutting two holes in plastic. If correctly placed they will not be very noticeable, detracting from appearance and resale value of the vehicle.
What if there is no hole under the plastic piece? A hole drilled in the body where the lift gate meets the body will lead to the same place. A large grommet would be required to protect the wiring as it went through the body.
If I were there I would know more and even help you which the install. If you are ever in norther California near Yosemite let me know.
I was thinking this as I watched. The metal where the weather stripping clamps onto could cut through that insulation and cause preventable issues. Otherwise, clean and easy install without putting holes in the body.
I’m n Florida, always seal your holes!!! Water will find a way
For the cargo box? No water has gotten in during the 50,000 miles I've driven with the other setup. It's not an issue. I'm not concerned about the gap in the weather stripping if that's what you're referring to.
Great idea. You have a natural tilt for the panel when the Thule is open. I too see future problems where the wiring is routed through the weather stripping. Maybe with a grinder you could cut a small piece out of the metal to allow the wiring to pass without chaffing?
You earned my subscription because this is so helpful how to shine bright in dark places well done
What a fantastic idea! I have the same cargo carrier for my Subaru Outback, makes great use of space and function!
Well done. Seems like an awesome setup. Enjoy!
Great tutorial! I need to do this project on my SUV. We're gonna see lot more solar panel on cargo box on SUVs on the road now on. 👍🚙👍
Good job! Jackery are VERY protective of their proprietry 8mm input and do not like MP4 adaptors being used, though of course it works. It just means you probably won't be getting free Jackery Solar Generators or gear as you did with Renogy who I also use for my 2 x 200W panels.
Thanks for this video. You did such a neat job and I appreciate you showing the details of how you did it.
Thanks!
Your new starship is looking real good sir:)
That's about what I did with the cables on my SUV. Gorilla tape is good for holding wires in place. In a couple of places I used sticky backed velcro if I thought I might need to move it out of the way in the future.
The routing of the cables under the lower rear door weatherstrip would be my only concern with this setup. If you get rearended or back into something hard enough to push your rear door in, there is a REALLY good chance that you will completely cut through one or both wires. Or worse yet, short your wires either together or against that horizontal body seam. If you choose to leave it there, you might consider an inline fuse as close to the panel as possible.
What can happen? Than these events cause a fire?
@@chillgamer8376 Exactly. Direct short to chassis ground will heat up the wire and could cause a fire.
Great setup. I wish I would've put a set up like that on my Subaru, "Adventure Wagon". I noticed you called your rig "The Adventure Mobile". I'd been calling my camper Modified Subaru Forester, "The Adventure Wagon", for quite a while.
Cool👍😊glad this set up for your solar panel & Jackery work well. Looking forward to seeing your continued travels👍😊
Thanks Lynne!
Excellent! Now I know I can mount solar panel on my Outback. Thank you!
Gracias por tu alluda nos sirbe. Mucho felizidades por tus ensenansas
Thanks, Tristan. This is not something I will be doing but it is great to share ideas with those will. Take care.👍🎶🤗
From an engineering perspective you really need to fit extra large flat washers either round or square with rounded corners on the inside of the panel mount's to distribute stress loads so the panel doesn't fly off and become a flying projectile.
Been running these setups on several SUVS for over 100,000 miles and haven't had any issues.
Thank you for sharing. Awesome 👍😊
Good job on your solar panel. Can't wait to see your trip to my state of BEAUTIFUL COLORADO.
Lots of good stuff to come!
Great execution. You have addressed my issue and provided a great solution. Thx. for sharing.
Keep a watch on where your cables enter the vehicle at the bottom of your lift gate. There could be chaffing where the cables rub against that metal edge . I would have ground out a section for the cables to go in further and added some more protection around the cables. Just an idea...
I'd rather just buy a new set of $15 cables if/when the time comes than mess around with grinding out a section in the metal, but to each his own. Thanks Mike!
@@SUVRVing I see your point as long as it doesnt cause a short and mess up the Jackery or the solar panel. Just a thought...
@@SUVRVing This could be a fire hazard if a short occurs. It wouldn't take much to mitigate the potential problem. Place a piece of durable, non conducting material between the wires and the chassis edge. It is a cheap, easy fix to keep from having a potential fire.
Yeah man. I really admire this guys creativity and DIY approach but some things you gotta get done properly, electrics is one of them! This looks dodgy IMO.
Pretty cool. Can't wait to see your adventures.
Nice job, good idea!
Thanks!
.... lovin' the attentions given to detail ✨
Thanks Carla!
I would have loved to hear how often the solar panel topped off your Jackery 1000 based on normal usage. and how it performed on various weather conditions.
Just opening and closing the tailgate would cut through the insulation on the wire and cause a short that could possibly lead to a fire. You could possibly run it through the top where the other wires for the tailgate is run it would be a much cleaner install and not to mention a safer.
I love how you think these things through!
Please do not buy products made with slave labor in communist China. That includes Renogy and Bluetti appliances. The communist party in China has almost one million Uyghur people in concentration camps and forces them to assemble solar and other appliances as well as make clothing without receiving pay.
Here is a Wiki link for more info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uyghur_genocide
@@robbrown4621 Renology and Bluetti? I thought it was Apple!
@@amyrodgers9887 Thank you for your reply.
Apple is an American owned company based in Cupertino, CA., that has its products assembled in communist China.
As of the last 24 months, Apple has moved about 30% of its assembly process to Vietnam and is quietly moving more of its assembly out of communist China.
Also, Samsung and Tosiba, a South Korean conglomerate and a Japanese corporation, have completely closed their facilities in communist China.
Bluetti and Renogy are partially owned by the CCP (Communist Party of China) and serve the interests of Chinese communist party members. In fact, all companies of any size in communist China must have members of the communist party as owners.
Bluetti and Renogy are assembled by slave labor forced from imprisoned Uyghur people who are not members of the majority race in China.
@@robbrown4621 I have heard fo the horrible treatment of the Uyghur and I am very sorry to hear of the involvement of Renology
It seems to be a Louisiana business. Where is the CCP connection?
As to routing the cable into the SUV, I've had a Goal Zero panel on top of my 2004 Grand Cherokee for about 3 years now. Just fed the cable in through the rear driver side door, which I don't use much, and let the door gasket deal with it. It's worked fine with no water leakage so far with no hole in the Jeep and minimal work to install. I did use two aluminum angle bars to make a frame on the roof that connects to the pre-existing roof channels, then I bolted the panel into that frame.
Did you experience more wind noise? Thank you for your inspiring video!
Nice solution. You might consider putting a small air damn around the leading exposed edge of the panel to prevent bugs and road debris from damaging the panel's underside.
Great Solar set-Up!❤️😀
You could even place wood on Thule's bottom side and drill through it to make it more secure.
Anytime you add things to the roof you should measure the new height so you know when driving around.
This is a very nice way to do the solar panel. I like this idea a lot. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Dennis 👍
I have exact cargo box. Love it
Great job, Tristan. Can't wait to see the footage from this trip. 👍
A word of warning, I do not recommend running the thick wires through the rear door seal. It can cause exhause gases to leak into the cabin. Also, as others have noted, larger fender washers on the inside of the carrier.
Great explanation on installing the solar panel. Looking forward to your Colorado videos. We were in the Flat Tops Wilderness Area north of Glenwood Springs over Labor Day; we love that area.
Please do not buy products made with slave labor in communist China. That includes Renogy and Bluetti appliances. The communist party in China has almost one million Uyghur people in concentration camps and forces them to assemble solar and other appliances as well as make clothing without receiving pay.
Here is a Wiki link for more info: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uyghur_genocide
Are you aware Yakima sells a cargo carrier with a solar panel attached. It is the CBX 16 Roof Box starting at $1200.00. Great video and ingenuity build.
Unfortunately it only produces around 35 watts at 5 v and I don't believe you can connect it to a jackery or the like. It only has 2 USB ports that you can draw power from but I could be wrong... 🤔
@@istj777
You're welcome. I'm with you on that 👎
More of a marketing gimmick if you ask me and not very practical for long term. Not for me either 😅
Ive been looking for a way to mount another solar panel on my cargo box and make use of that space. Good call with the rubber washers and the panel's inset mounting holes!
Hack of the year! Love it! 👍😎🇨🇦🌞
Thanks for the great tips.nice build
I'm so glad to see someone actually get solar straight to a power bank I couldn't find many videos of people doing that so I'm glad you did because I don't have the room for a battery and inverter and all those extra cables I just want to hook straight to my power bank
I'm a firm believer in Locktite.
I was a trip when my spare gas tanks worked their way loose on my roof rack. Luckily none fell off.
Yes, you are right. It is amazing how bolts vibrate loose.
@@kimberlyferrier1312 and at the other end of the spectrum, being an old fart, I can tell you how well Locktite RED works! I once had to leave a bicycle rack on the back bumper of a car that I traded in. I could not break loose the nuts attached with Locktite RED!
Impressive. Not a simple thing to get right and not have leaks or hear minor rattling from the wires.
Looking good , I would change the wing nuts to nilock nuts
I've had the wing nuts and lock washers on the RAV4's setup for years and have had no issues. I like being able to check the tightness by hand.
@@SUVRVing ok 👍
With 1 piece of panel, how much can it charge? Will it be enough to charge Jackery 500?
Your Channel popped up in my queue and so Happy / New Sub your simple detailed genius solar panel cargo box mounting i did not think of solves I thought I had NO more?? roof top install space. GREAT JOB‼️Vid‼️👍👍⬆️
Thanks Ben!
I think I would have gone ahead and just used an Anderson cable (with adapter) instead of those bulky MC4 cables. With one 100 watt panel, that should work fine. Also, I'm concerned about how you routed the cables behind the weatherstripping. Your wire is pushed up against that metal edge and is probably going to wear over time. At the very least, you need something to keep that wire off of the metal. But I'm sure other commenters would have better ideas for routing that wire.
I'll keep an eye on it. If it wears away, I'll just get new cables for $15. If I wanted to be proactive, I'd just wrap the cables in electrical tape. Not a big deal either way. I used the MC4 cables instead of the Anderson because it's only this Jackery (the 1000) that has the Anderson. I'll also use this setup with the 1500, which doesn't have the Anderson.
@@SUVRVing The issue with those cables wearing away the insulation at the point where it enters the rear door is that they are electrical and could spark (not a lot, since the voltage is probably 20v). You might have bedding and other flammable stuff in that area. I know you are going to keep an eye on it, but that sort of stuff gets forgotten.
You should be able to drill a hole in that area which can be made safe with a grommet and sealed up so it will not leak.
Some one else responded that there is a pass through hidden under the brake light assembly. A short is not a great thing to encounter.
@@anthonylorenzo49where?
Very nice setup with one exception. The wires entering the vehicle may short against the body and perhaps cause a fire. I would do that part differently to make it safer. Greetings from sunny Jamaica.
Should you use longer bolts and add backing plates (wood or metal) inside in cargo box for an added measure of sturdy securing?
I think some larger washers on the back side wouldn't be a bad idea, but I don't think backing plates are necessary.
Great video!
Like, as usual. :) Thank you, Sir!
Thanks! 😁
Hiw r u finding about using that jackrey input to charge it? I find u hv to check that connection periodically, it can come loose. U can change the connection to an Anderson connect. 😉
Your very creative
Ive got that box myself, off craigs as well like 4 or 5 years ago, it's great, but it's not exactly 100% water tight, still it's great to have the extra space, ive thought about the solar on top, I even thought about a diesel heater in side with the vent coming down into my truck topper as needed. Cool to see you set it up!
Got a Jackery 300 for my two rigs and move it between the two. I just use my solar panels when camped otherwise I directly connected the Jackery to my battery to get charging voltage. Once home I always give the Jackery a good charge off the 110V ... never used a fridge or a cooler .. take up too much room. My rigs are a 2001 Ford Explorer Sport 2dr and a 2021 Subaru Crosstrek that I lifted and put on all terrain tires.
Yep, that's a good way to do it if you don't have much in terms of power requirements. Thanks Al.
@@SUVRVing A question? Did you mention and I missed it, but can you not open the Thule cargo box at maybe a 45 degree angle and get a better presentation to the sun? Just a morning thought! 🤠
Hello Tristan! I was wondering if you could tell me the name of the trail outside Phoenix that has the cliff dwellings in the unbelievable canyon. The video title is "Jaw Dropping! " Thanks!
What about using composite shims,(HD, Lowe's), cut to size, to stabilize connections on the curves ?
Thank you for this moving. Just starting SUV life full time so I appreciate this video. So there was no leaking through the neoprene washers either or did you experience any rain? Thanks!
Does the weight of the solar panel make it difficult to lift the cargo box lid?
Those brackets are guaranteed to punch holes in the ski box. You should start the Kluge Wiring Co
mpany.
Thanks for sharing. I had also thought of using a rack storage unit (Thule, Yakima) and a Jackery as a power system. You have confirmed it is possible and that it works. I am wondering, though, if it might be possible to put the whole power system in the Thule or Yakima. In other words have the panel on the top of the storage unit and have the charge controller and battery in the Thule (or have two Jackery's, one charging in the Thule and one being used and swapping them when the used one is low on power).
You certainly could, but I don't see any advantage of doing that. If you buy two, you're spending twice as much to get essentially the same thing, and I'm not quite sure what the advantage would be over routing the cable through and into the car. And if you have just one up there, you'd have to take it out every day to actually use the thing. And you wouldn't be able to monitor it to make sure it's charging or anything like that. I wouldn't do it, but if it works for your situation, go for it.
@@SUVRVing Thanks for your feedback. It is helpful. I am going to check my Honda Element and see if I can route the wires through the way that you did.
Thanks B
Great videos. I've always enjoyed watching your travels. Please be careful with the seals on your vehicles. Carbon monoxide might become an issue 🤔.
I'm not an expert, but just a thought 👍
Nice video! Is it possible for you to review Xtar SP100 portable solar panel?
Hey, uh, would it not be easier to have the box on the ground when you mount the panel?
Lol yep, definitely!
I think you were only seeing 50w because the battery was at 96%, I expect the internal solar controller was limiting the current. Would be good to see what you achieve in full sunlight with a half full battery 🙂 thanks for the vid 👍
Very thoughtful installation.
Thanks for watching, Erica.
Im a bit worried that the cables might chafe against the zip ties overtime due to road vibrations etc
I have a van the size of the NV200 and found that I can put a folding 100w solar panel out on the long sloping dashboard under the windscreen and leave it there permanently - an indoor solar panel that clearly doesn't need holes to wire into the battery.
Great video! I'm new to solar and would like to know more about the Jackery. is it like a battery/inverter combo? Is that how you were able to not need a separate AGM or Lithium battery?
NOTES TO SELF: 1) Turn the brackets (and possibly bend) so they lay flat on the Thule box. 2) Use 4 nylon lock washers inside. 3) Use 4 large fender washers inside the box.